Celebrating Onam in Gods own country Kerala Gods Own Country.

. We Indians have come to associate the two together not because we understand it from experience but because most of us have seen it advertised so often on our television screens. But that does not mean that this title is inappropriate. On the contrary it is the most befitting title that could have been bestowed upon this land. However, by associating its Godliness with only its natural beauty would only serve to keep us away from the true source of its divinity. To experience Kerala at its best there is no better time than the 10-day festival of Onam. Onam is an ancient festival and its importance is both seasonal and religious. Seasonal, because it celebrates the rice harvest season, and religious, because its origins are deeply rooted in great Indian mythology. Since this story is way too long, Ill stick to mentioning just the occasion, which is marked by this festival. It is believed that Keralasaw its golden period during the reign of the mythical King Mahabali. He was very pious, generous and therefore loved dearly by all his subjects. Due to certain circumstance, Lord Vishnu had to push King Mahabali into the great oceanic underwater. However, since he had done no wrong he was granted lordship over the oceanic underwater and was granted one wish. As a boon, King Mahabali asked Lord Vishnu to grant him the opportunity to visit his subjects once every year. Onam came to be celebrated as the time when King Mahabalis departure preparations began in the underwaters and went on till he had left and ascended to the heavens. Irrespective of where you are in Kerala during these 10 days, you will not be able to escape the celebrations, i.e. until unless you dont decide to lock yourself up (and why would anyone want to do that?). During the last 3 or 4 days of the festival even the schools and government offices are officially shut down. Happy Holidays!! I chose to reside with a family in a 350-year-old Portuguese guesthouse in Fort Cochi for the duration of the festival (Guess how cool was that!!) The decision paid off really well. Firstly, it was wayyyyyyyyy cheaper and secondly, I got a first hand experience (the guesthouse owners practically treated me like family. Very sweet of them!). Fort Cochi is not a part of mainland Cochi. It is a tourist destination a little away from the city where all the Old Portuguese structures are located. It is a very small area in just 2 sq km that is why I would suggest that if you choose to visit and stay there then hiring cycles would be your

best and cheapest option. That is what I did too; though I take no credit for it; the credit goes to the guesthouse hosts whose in-depth knowledge of the vicinity helped make the entire trip a very personal experience.

Now, to the festival. I should mention at the outset, that each of the 10 days has its own significance and has its own rituals, each different from the rest of the days. Trying to mention them all in detail would be like compiling a thesis, which I have not the mind to write, and you, no strength to read J Therefore Ill only mention the highlights and what were the major attractions that were a part of my itinerary. One of the first things I noticed at the beginning of the festival was the beautiful flower decoration (more like northern Rangoli but only made with flowers) made by the hosts daughters in the courtyard of the house. It is called a Pookalam and is initially made with flowers of only one colour but as the festival progresses layers are added with different coloured flowers. The artistry that goes into making and planning a Pookalam design is astonishing. This you wont be able to miss even if you wanted to. The other thing being, that they installed two statues of Vamana (Lord Vishnus incarnation in KingMahabalis time) and King Mahabali at the entrance of the house. What follows for the next 3 to 4 days is very similar to what is done during Diwali in north India - cleaning of the house, loads of shopping (mainly clothes and jewellery) and Pookalam making competitions. All this in addition to the famous snake boat race. I couldnt catch the snake boat race, during this visit because it only takes place in areas situated in the famous backwaters ofKerala. On the seventh day the local administration illuminates the entire city with lights and fireworks. The famous Ona Sadya (Onam special buffet lunch) starts in several places and temples along with Puli Kali (masked leopard dance) & other traditional dances on this very day. It is on this day that the festivities reach a high. The statues of Vamana and King Mahabali are cleaned and taken around the house in a procession and then placed in the center of Pookalam on the eighth day. The ninth day is the eve of Onam and is also called the First Onam. It is believed that this is the day when KingMahabali descends upon them. This is the day when all the Keralites go on a shopping frenzy and the preparation for the Grand Onam Buffet for the 10th and final day is also done on the evening of this day.

On the morning of the final day, I saw my hosts smearing the main entrance with rice-flour batter. Upon asking I was told, that the 10th day is considered the day when King Mahabaliwas pushed into the underwaters and also the day of his resurrection. Therefore, they do this as a traditional welcome sign for him into their houses. On this day they bathe early in the morning, dress up in new clothes and distribute alms to the needy. You would be surprised to know that not only the temples but the mosques and the churches too organise prayers on this day for the masses. Later on in the day, there is a feast like no other. Even an average household can, most of the time, have over 30 dishes prepared for the banquet that is incredibly delicious! At night there is a fabulous display of fireworks just like Diwali and various communities engage by playing traditional Onam games. This is how the festival comes to an end. However, on the next day everybody submerges their idol in nearby river or sea and the Pookalam is cleared. What I got from the entire experience can be summed up in the next few lines. Travel aficionado or not, if anyone can manage to stay for the entire festival then your senses will be buzzing for so long and your travel appetite filled to such an extent that you wouldnt want be anywhere else but home. Home, in Gods own country.

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as well.