LG Flatron E700SH

Reference Schematic: T530B/S, CHASSIS CA-138

SMPS Voltages: (Standby) +54V (+50.5V PWR ON) +85V (+81.1V PWR ON) +6.1V +7.6V +15.6V B+ Voltage during PWR ON- 87.1V EHT output voltages: +403V -158V +40.9V PROBLEM: when I switch ON the monitor, a thin blue arc jumps from the LOTs body to the ferrite core followed by one big spark and loud sound like busting of a cracker. There is another spark at the same time jumping from ferrite core steel clamp tip to PCB ground. This cycle keeps on repeating. A very fine horizontal crack (half the size of hair) visible on the LOTs body. The spark is jumping from that crack to the ferrite core and from the core to the ground.

Steps taken to solve the problem:

1. I covered the crack with little hot melt glue, the arcing and sparing completely stopped. 2. In order to make a strong and reliable seal, I removed the glue and used M-SEAL to close the crack. I spread M-SEAL all around the crack touching the ferrite core. After switching ON, frying and hissing noise could be heard coming from around the seal. When I bought a screw driver near the ferrite core, tiny spark is jumping from core to screw driver. The noise also stopped when I bought a screw driver over the seal. 3. I fixed a small aluminum piece close to the seal and ground the aluminum to ground using a 10meg resistor. The frying noise completely disappeared. The set continuously worked only for 3 to 4 hours. After a power cut when I switched ON the set the screen violently shook and the set was dead. The horizontal output transistor, HOT was blown1. 4. I removed the M-SEAL and used a lot of hot melt glue over the crack, replaced the HOT. Now the situation became worse, the sparking moved to another place near the crack and close to the core. The sparking was

heavy and continuous. 1. I think there was a lot of stress on the HOT from the leaking corona* the HOT could have been running hot as i did not test it. The HOT also could have become weak due to arcing and sparking during pre-repair.

*If there is no sufficient strength to form an arc or spark there will leaking of high voltage through the air called the corona discharge. The frying or hissing sound are the sound of corona. Points to remember: 1. Never run the set when there is arcing, sparking or corona discharge. The HOT would blow any time. 2. Never use M-SEAL, in very high voltage area, as it is a chalk putty. Use only 100% silicon sealant for sealing high voltage cracks. (100% silicon sealant are used for making fish tank, Dr.Fix silicon sealant, RTV Anabond silicon sealant are the products that can be used) 3. If there is external arcing, sparking or corona discharge from flyback transformer, try silicon sealant to cover the crack, if spark moves to some other place the only option is to replace the flyback transformer.

Horizontal flyback working:

When the PWR button is pressed the microprocessor switches ON the horizontal drive signal to HOT. The horizontal output stage receives power from SMPS +50V rail for a brief period. The microprocessor senses the horizontal flyback plus from the LOT and switches ON the B+ drive. If the flyback plus is low or not present there will be no B+ drive, but the horizontal drive signal to HOT is present indefinitely. The B+ voltage changes according to the resolution selected from computer. 100 Watts bulb test: (100W bulb has 40 ohms cold resistance) I put a 100 Watts bulb in series with B+ voltage (between the 1 ohms 2 watt resistor and LOT pin2). There was no B+ drive as thee was 25 volt drop across the bulb. Next I put an 80 ohms resistor in place of the bulb. Now there was 10 volt across the resistor, still no B+ drive. Putting a 60 ohms resistor started the B+ drive.