TLM - The Travel & Leisure Magazine Autumn 2011

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tlm
the travel & leisure magazine
autumn 2011 3.50
SADDLE UP
Ranching holidays
HAVANA GOOD TIME
Catching the beat in Cuba
SPA STARS
Britains spa towns
ASIAS GLITZY TWINS
Exploring Hong Kong and Macau
MONTYS TIPS
Golf tuition breaks
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www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
CALIFORNIA
DREAMIN
CALIFORNIA
DREAMIN
PLUS
Londons waterways
The South Downs
Movie star hotels
Surfs up in the
Golden Gate State
Surfs up in the
Golden Gate State
SADDLE UP
Ranching holidays
HAVANA GOOD TIME
SPA STARS
Britains spa towns
ASIAS GLITZY TWINS
MONTYS TIPS
Golf tuition breaks
PLUS
Londons waterways
The South Downs
Movie star hotels
OFCtlmAutumn11v2.2_Layout 1 15/10/2011 08:02 Page 1
02TLMautumn-IFC 21/9/11 09:39 Page 1
4 in the frame summer photo competition winners
6 getting to know California
15 escape to Hong Kong and Macau
21 lets try ranching holidays
27 competitions
WIN a 850 wildlife break for two at the Grant Arms Hotel in Scotland
WIN a 425 Michelin dinner and spa stay at The Devonshire Arms, in Yorkshire
28 uk uncovered Britains spa towns
WIN a pair of Thermae Bath Spa vouchers worth 88
36 off the beaten track Cuba
42 a touch of class butlers and personal service
47 in your flightbag what to take on the flight
WIN a Braun weekender worth 135 and a Rogue toiletry bag worth 55
48 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday
WIN a Global Equator 70 suitcase from Karrimor worth 100
50 travel tech gizmos and gadgets to take away
WIN a fantastic Polaroid x800E camera, worth 49.99
53 on your doorstep South Downs
59 competitionWIN a long weekend break for two in Wroclaw worth 1,000
61 pack your clubs golf tuition breaks + golf news
WIN a weeks club rental for four worth 200 with ClubstoHire.com
67 travel update travel news
70 10 of the best wildlife encounters
78 checking out focus on film star hotels + reviews
82 london life Londons rivers and waterways + London news
WIN one of five pairs of London Eye River Cruise tickets, worth 24 per pair
86 out & about whats on outside London
91 coming next whats in store in the next issue
subscribe to tlm and be entered into our FREE monthly prize draw
tlm
c on t e n t s
EDITORIAL: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Minty Clinch, John Law, Martin Ferguson,
Debbie Ward and Jeannine Williamson Design Nick Blaxill Production June Barnard Publisher Terry Stafford Advertising sales Elaine Smith
Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published quarterly byTLM Media Limited, Langdale House, 11 Marshalsea Road, London SE1 1EN
Tel: 020 3176 2570 Fax: 020 3176 2572 Email: info@tlm-magazine.co.uk Printed by BGP TLM Media Limited
Front cover photo: Surf instructor at La Jolla, San Diego, California California Travel and Tourism Commission/Andreas Hub
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TLM Media
Limited is done so at its owners risk and neither TLM Media Limited nor its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage.
TLM Media Limited is a completely independent company and can hold no responsibility for the actions of outside agents.
S
o that was summer, with
little sunshine to cheer us
up until its surprise final
fling. As the nights draw in and
days get colder, the news is
hardly warming, either. Yet,
despite consumer spending
continuing to fall in the tough
economic climate, it is not all
doom and gloom. Research
shows that, no matter how
much family finances are
squeezed, an annual holiday is
seen as a household essential.
Let us brighten your outlook
with our autumn issue. It kicks
off with a focus on California,
conjuring up images of sun, sea
and surfing.
We venture onto the streets
of Hong Kong and Macau and
head off to explore the
impressive and unique land of
cigars, Cuba.
For those who want to be
spoiled, we check out personal
service on your holiday as well
as putting film star hotels in the
spotlight. And for sheer
escapism, we show you how to
be real City Slickers and take to
the hills on horseback or walk
on the wild side with wildlife
encounters.
Back home, we explore
Britains stately spa towns and
guide you around the South
Downs, as well as getting off dry
land to look at Londons rivers
and waterways.
We also have prizes worth
over 3,000 to win, including a
weekend break to the historic
Polish city of Wroclaw.
Always look on the bright side
of life...
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 3
from the
editor
the travel and leisure magazine
Peter Ellegard
n Walk on the wild
side. See page 70
Norman Carr Safaris
contentsTLMautumn11v1_T&L 14/10/2011 22:25 Page 3
S
ummer 2011 may have
been a washout but it
didnt stop entries for
our summer photo competi-
tion with Olympus from
flooding in.
With a record number of
entries over 650 for both the
under-16s and adult competi-
tions selecting the 12
finalists was harder than ever,
while voting for the winners in
each category was a close-run
thing.
Katie MacDonald, from the
Isle of Skye, took top honours
for the adults with her picture,
Rockness, her ironic take on
the wet summer. Her prize is
an Olympus Tough TG-810
camera, worth 269.99.
Competition was fierce in
the under-16s category, with
some outstanding shots from
very talented youngsters. The
overall winner was 14-year-
old Lily Dellar, from Uckfield,
for her delightful picture, The
Rocks. She wins an Olympus
Tough TG-310 camera, worth
179.
With such a high quality
of entries, the judges also
decided to give a special
highly commended award in
each category. Congratula-
tions go to Lauren Owen,
from Redhill, for her Chasing
the Wind picture in the adult
section and to our youngest
entrant, six-year-old Sophie
Timms from Tonbridge, for
her Lonely Flower photo.
They both win an Olympus
VR-310 camera worth
99.99.
Katie and Lily snap up our Olympus
photo competition prizes
Summing
up our
summer
in the frame nsummer photo competition results
Highly commended
n Katie MacDonalds
winning picture: Rockness
n Junior winner
Lily Dellars photo:
The Rocks
n Chasing the Wind by
Lauren Owen
n The Olympus Tough TG-310 n The Olympus Tough TG-810
n Lonely Flower by
Sophie Timms, aged six
4 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
Frametlmautumn11v1pp4.2_T&L 14/10/2011 12:04 Page 4
Discover the history of the chateaux and castles of the Czech Republic. You will defnitely not get bored!
The Czech Republic will pamper you, whether you come for your honeymoon or a romantic stay.
www.czechtourism.com
history
your
Take
loved one
a journey
into magical
o
n
05TLMautumn 21/9/11 09:51 Page 1
6 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011 6 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
T
heres only one way to experience California
if you really want to get into the West Coast
spirit and that is by driving an open-top
sports car up the Pacific Coast Highway, the
Beach Boys and Eagles blaring out from the
stereo, surfers to your left, cool wind in your
hair and blue sky up above.
The PCH, as it is often shortened to, is officially the
120-mile stretch of Highway 1 between Dana Point and
Oxnard in Southern California, taking in Los Angeles,
Malibu, Santa Monica and Santa Barbara. But to most
people, it applies to the entire near-500-mile length
between San Francisco and LA, or the 600 miles
between San Diego and San Francisco. You can
also take it up through Northern California
and on to the Canadian border, for a total
distance of 2,000 miles.
This long, snaking ribbon is far more
than a highway. It leads you on a voyage of
exploration right through Californias coastal
heartland, passing by much of the Golden Gate
State that visitors want to see.
Since my first visit to California 25 years ago, I
have been fortunate to have driven the scenic coastal
stretch between LA and San Francisco on a couple of
occasions as well as driving shorter sections many other
times.
Both times, it was in iconic American muscle cars: a
little red Corvette in the Nineties and, earlier this year, a
flame-red Ford Mustang. I even turned down a classic
Jag for the Corvette, and as I motored around LA and its
environs, I couldnt resist a lazy drive along Santa
Monica Boulevard and West Hollywoods Sunset Strip
with my shades and shorts on, the top down and one arm
draped over the door. Call me a poser, but I firmly
believe that when in Rome or in this case, the laid-back
West Coast you should emulate the locals.
memorable
Some of my most memorable US moments have
happened along the PCH, none more so than when I
decided to photograph the stars hand and foot prints at
Manns Chinese Theatre in Hollywood after my Sunset
Strip drive and found what seemed a perfect parking
spot down a nearby side street. Having topped up the
meter and walked off, I turned round to see a
A road trip along Californias iconic coastal highway encapsulates the very essence of Americas
third-largest state. Peter Ellegard dons shorts and shades to explore
The long and
road
getting to know ncalifornia
n Hollywood
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policewoman taking a keen interest in the Corvette.
Returning to the car, I asked in my finest upper-crust
English accent: Is there a problem, officer? Unfortu-
nately, I had mistakenly parked in a red no-parking bay,
saving the car in the adjacent metered bay from a parking
ticket but earning one myself. Seeing my crestfallen
expression, the lady cop asked if the car was rented, and
when I said yes she reassured me I would be OK as the
rental companies never paid parking fines.
Seizing the moment, I asked if she would mind
posing with the car while writing the ticket so I could
take some souvenir photos. Sure, she beamed, and I
clicked away as she struck different poses until a couple
of curious Hells Angels bikers pulled up alongside.
Within seconds, they were in the photos as well, and I
ending up getting them to sit on the cars bonnet with the
traffic cop lying across their arms, pen poised on the
ticket. Only in LA! And I never did have to pay the fine.
I had another brush with the law in California this year,
having done the LA-San Francisco drive in my Mustang
and traded it in for a nondescript Japanese saloon to drive
back down to Monterey for an overnight and a round of
golf on the famed Pebble Beach Links course.
With my return flight home from San Francisco that
evening, I put pedal to the metal on the coast road after my
round and caught the attention of a California Highway
Patrol officer, who sped after me with his motorbike lit up
like a Christmas tree. It was a fair cop: I had been doing
81mph in a 65mph zone. He told me I would get a speed-
ing ticket through the post, adding that had I been doing
75 I would have got away with a ticking off. But I didnt
mind. I was still on a high from playing Pebble Beach. The
CHiPs officer cant have ticketed many speeding motorists
wearing a smile as broad as mine. And, six months on, I
still havent received that ticket, either.
surf culture
The freeways are a quicker way of getting between
Californias coastal cities and key attractions, although
around LA they are often jammed solid. Driving the
Pacific Coast Highway needs time and patience, like
savouring an expensive wine. Plan to take in the sights
and highlights along the way and be prepared for frequent
stops, from traffic in towns to photo opportunities.
My Corvette trip took 11 days and began in San Diego,
a beautiful city of picturesque parks and grand,
restored 1860s buildings in the downtown Gas
Lamp Quarter. It made a fabulous, easy-paced
start to the drive north.
The coastline between San Diego and LA
is often bypassed by those who land at LAX
and head north. Do that and you miss out on
some real treats. California is synonymous
with surfing and, while you see it all along the
coast, nowhere is surf culture stronger than south
of LA.
The breakers created by the offshore Santa Ana
winds are perfect for surfing at Huntington Beach, sung
n Mustang on 17 Mile Drive, Monterey
n Sunset surfer
Peter Ellegard
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about in 1963 hit single, Surf City, by home-town duo
Jan & Dean. Today, Huntington Beach even calls itself
Surf City USA. It hosted the first professional surfing
event in 1959 and is where the USA surf team has its
base. Surfing attractions include the International Surf-
ing Museum and Surfing Hall of Fame
(www.surfingmuseum.org), and the Surfing Walk of
Fame (www.surfingwalkoffame.com).
Surf culture is also strong in Oceanside and Newport
Beach and, beyond LA, in Malibu, playground of the
rich and famous.
Majestic former transatlantic liner the Queen Mary
(www.queenmary.com) now lies captive in dock at
Long Beach as a floating hotel and attraction. Stay
aboard her, as I have done, in elegant decadence or be
transported back to the days when steamships ruled the
waves on tours of its stately, art deco interior. Nearby are
the Disneyland (http://disneyland.disney.go.com) and
Knotts Berry Farm (www.knotts.com) theme parks of
Anaheim.
To its detractors, Los Angeles is a sprawling urban
mass; a city with glitz but without a heart. The reality is it
has several hearts, and they beat loudest in its western
neighbourhoods. This is a Westside Story with a difference.
From the refined elegance of Beverly Hills and West
Hollywood to the vibrant oceanside communities of
Santa Monica and Marina del Rey, including funky
neighbour Venice Beach, each neighbourhood has its
own flavours and attractions for visitors.
ferris wheel
Beverly Hills has attracted stars for decades. Today, it is
famous for its high-end shopping, with ritzy Rodeo
Drive (www.rodeodrive.com) the epicentre of its
shopping scene, and the grand Beverly Wilshire hotel
mountains, forests
and deserts
California has nature in spades, with 270
state parks, 19 national forests, over a dozen
major mountain ranges, 14 million acres of
federal wilderness area, 32 million acres of
forest and 21 million acres of desert.
At Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia
national parks, you can see giant sequoia
trees, natures largest living things. The latter
includes the General Sherman Tree the
worlds largest tree by volume. It stands
274.9 feet high and has a circumference of
102.6 feet.
California has three standing trees you can
drive through, for a fee. All are coastal
redwoods in Humboldt County, Northern
California. Tunnel Log is a fallen giant sequoia
with a tunnel cut into it in Sequoia National
Park through which cars can drive.
Mountain resorts offering skiing and
summer adventure include Mammoth, Squaw
Valley and Heavenly.
Among Californias desert areas is Death
Valley National Park, where Badwater is the
Western Hemispheres lowest point. The
Mojave National Preserve and Joshua Tree
National Park are other desert areas. Desert
resort community Palm Springs is a man-
made oasis offering luxurious spa resorts,
golf, dining, art, theatre and shopping. The
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway takes visitors
8,500 feet up to San Jacinto State Park.
Driving the
Pacific Coast
Highway
needs time
and patience,
like
savouring an
expensive
wine
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n Driving through
Tunnel Log
n Catching a wave
(www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire) opposite.
You may find yourself rubbing shoulders with celebs
there and at the Beverly Hills Hotel
(www.beverlyhillshotel.com), a doyenne known
locally as the Pink Palace.
Shop for designer fashion and art at West
Hollywoods Avenues of Art & Design district
(www.avenueswh.com), before hitting Sunset Strip to
party the night away at its clubs and nightspots.
Santa Monica Pier (www.santamonicapier.org)
features the Pacific Park amusement park, which
includes the worlds first solar-powered Ferris wheel,
giving birds-eye views of the beaches, and a traditional
carousel.
Muscle Beach (www.musclebeach.net) was born
just south of the pier in the 1950s, kick-starting the
body-beautiful, workout and health fads now such an
integral part of the LA scene. Rent a bike or skates and
follow the 8.5-mile beach path to Venice Beach, where
you will find the musclemen pumping iron today. Venice
Beach is great for people-watching for its bizarre sights
and wacky performers. I once encountered a semi-naked
man standing one-footed while holding rubber snakes in
each hand and balancing a branch on his head. You could
also have your photo taken with aliens sat in deckchairs.
Neighbouring Marina del Rey boasts Americas
largest man-made yacht harbour, from where you can
take a chartered yacht to explore the coastline and
offshore islands or take a relaxing harbour cruise.
Hollywood highlights include Universal Studios
(www.universalstudioshollywood.com), while LAs
cultural scene takes in the Getty Centre
(www.getty.edu) high above the city and the Getty
Villa, in Malibu, with collections of artworks, sculptures
and photographs. Catch shows and concerts at the Kodak
Theatre (www.kodaktheatre.com), home of the
Oscars, and Los Angeles Philharmonic performances at
Frank Gehrys garish, silver Walt Disney Concert Hall
(www.laphil.com). Pasadena is worth taking a side trip
for the historic buildings of its old centre. I vividly recall
partying all night with samba-dancing Brazilians in the
street celebrations in Old Pasadena after watching Brazil
beat Italy in the World Cup Final at the nearby Rose
Bowl stadium in 1994.
Shoppers wanting unusual souvenirs should head to
the LA County Coroners Office, where Skeletons in the
Closet (www.lacoroner.com) is a gift shop a couple of
floors up from the mortuary that sells items including
towels with the outline of a dead body and toe-tag key
rings. The proceeds help rehabilitate offenders.
missions
Two hours north of LA, Santa Barbara styles itself the
American Riviera and is a beautiful city rich in history
with glorious Pacific beaches and a marina edged by
restaurants.
Take the lift up to the 85-foot-high clock tower of the
Spanish Colonial Revival-style Santa Barbara County
Courthouse (www.sbcourts.org) for a great view over its
red tiled roof and the city, then go on a Red Tile Walking
Tour past 1800s-era adobe homes and public buildings.
san francisco and beyond
San Franciscos landmarks include Golden Gate Bridge, 75 years old in 2012, the
clanging cable cars of the worlds last manually-operated cable car system, the
shops, restaurants and attractions of Pier 39 (www.pier39.com) and Fishermans
Wharf (www.fishermanswharf.org) and former federal prison Alcatraz
(www.nps.gov/alcatraz), set on an island.
Several companies offer cruises to Alcatraz. For an unrivalled perspective of the
city, take a 20-minute aerial Vista Tour with San Francisco Helicopters
(www.sfhelicoptertours.com) for $160 on my trip, the pilot even flew us
under Golden Gate Bridge!
And be the centre of attention on a city tour in open-sided vintage buses with
Mr Toads Tours (www.mrtoadstours.com).
San Francisco has Americas largest and oldest Chinatown, established when the
1849 Gold Rush brought many Chinese immigrants. Other areas with a rich ethnic
past are Russian Hill, down which the worlds crookedest street Lombard
Street descends, and North Beach (Italian). Haight-Ashbury was the birthplace of
hippy culture and flower power.
Cultural institutions include the California Academy of Sciences
(www.calacademy.org), with an aquarium, planetarium, natural history museum
and a four-story rainforest all under one roof.
Beyond San Francisco, cross Golden Gate Bridge to carry on up the coast,
stopping off at arty Sausalito and the giant redwoods of Muir Woods. Or head
inland to visit the wineries of Napa Valley or state capital Sacramento. After the
discovery of gold in the nearby Sierra Nevada foothills in 1848, it was a key supply
centre for the Gold Rush, becoming the capital in 1854. The Capitol Building is one
of two dozen museums in the city.
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n The Golden Gate
Bridge, San Francisco
n Cable car, San Francisco
The beautiful, hilltop Old Mission Santa Barbara
(http://santabarbaramission.org) is the citys crown-
ing architectural glory. Founded in 1786, it is one of 21
missions built by the Spanish between 1769 and 1823
and is known as the Queen of the Missions.
Stay at a cosy downtown B&B like the Cheshire Cat
Inn (www.cheshirecat.com) and you can enjoy its art
galleries, shops and restaurants on foot.
Santa Barbara Wine Country is one of Californias
main wine regions. You can taste local vintages at 12
wineries within a few blocks of downtown and the
beaches on the Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail
(www.urbanwinetrailsb.com) or take a Wine Tours by
Trolley trip (www.sbtrolley.com), hopping on and off
trolleys to enjoy good libations at four wineries.
Oscar-winning movie Sideways was set in Santa
Barbara Wine Country and you can check out film loca-
tions on guided Sideways tours or pick up a map from
the Santa Barbara Convention & Visitors Bureau
(www.santabarbaraca.com) and drive to them
yourself. Among locations used were picturesque
Santa Ynez Valley communities Los Olivos and
Solvang, a fascinating Danish village cele-
brating its centenary this year with
Scandinavian buildings, antique and art
shops, a windmill and an old mission.
At San Luis Obispo, a stay in the
Madonna Inn (www.madonnainn.com)
means sleeping in themed rooms, including
caves where you shower under a cascading
waterfall in your bathroom.
Halfway between LA and San Francisco at San
Simeon, stop for a guided tour of newspaper magnate
William Randolph Hearsts palatial, Spanish-styled
Hearst Castle (www.hearstcastle.org), which houses
priceless art and antiques, with sculptures and a Roman
temple gracing the estate.
artists colony
The road from there to the Monterey Peninsula is one of
Americas most spectacular drives, and is known as the
Big Sur Coast Highway. It hugs the wild coastline past
Big Surs towering cliffs, canyons and giant redwoods.
Stay at the chic, clifftop Post Ranch Inn
(www.postranchinn.com) for spectacular views and
to enjoy the natural beauty and wildlife, including
condors, at leisure.
Beyond Big Sur lies pretty artists colony Carmel.
There, you can take scenic 17-Mile Drive, which loops
around the Monterey Peninsula headland past glorious
ocean vistas, wind-sculpted cypress trees and golf
courses including Pebble Beach.
Former fish-canning town Monterey, made famous
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by author John Steinbeck, is popular with tourists. Go
shopping in Cannery Rows stores and dine at harbour-
side restaurants on Fishermans Wharf, from where you
can watch sea otters frolic among the giant kelp fronds
or hear barking sea lions. Rent a kayak for a close-up
view of seals and dolphins or take a boat trip to watch
migrating blue, grey and humpback whales.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium
(www.montereybayaquarium.org) is a must and
showcases the rich marine life found just offshore in the
bays protected marine sanctuary waters. The Hotel
Abrego (www.hotelabrego.com) makes a good base
for exploring the Monterey area, or if you want luxury
with world-class golf on your doorstep, book a stay at
Pebble Beach Resorts (www.pebblebeach.com).
First opened over 100 years ago, the Santa Cruz
Beach Boardwalk (www.beachboardwalk.com), on
Monterey Bay, is Californias oldest surviving amuse-
ment park. Ride an old steam train through redwood
forests on the Roaring Camp and Big Trees Narrow
Gauge Railroad.
By the time you reach San Francisco, you should be
chilled out after your marathon drive and ready for a
chilled glass of wine from nearby Napa Valley to toast
the memories. Much as I love San Francisco, I think I
left my heart somewhere back on the Pacific Coast high-
way.
california facts
when to go
Californias diverse topography, from coast
to deserts and forested mountains,
means it has a range of climates. Coastal
regions enjoys a Mediterranean-style
climate with sunny and warm summers
and wet and mild winters.
getting there
Flights operate from London Heathrow to Los
Angeles and San Francisco, with direct services by British Airways
(www.ba.com), Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com), American
Airlines (www.aa.com), United Airlines (www.unitedairlines.com)
and Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.co.uk).
getting around
Rent a car. All the main rental companies have locations throughout
California. You can rent Ford Mustangs from Dollar Rent a Car
(www.dollar.co.uk). Amtraks Pacific Surfliner train
(www.amtrak.com) runs between San Diego and San Luis Obispo via
Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. San Franciscos Muni (www.sfmuni.com)
operates buses, trolleys and cable cars. Los Angeles has a bus network
and its Metro (www.metro.net), with four lines and 70 stations.
tour operators
Operators include America As You Like It
(www.americaasyoulikeit.com),
Virgin Holidays
(www.virginholidays.co.uk), Bon
Voyage (www.bon-voyage.co.uk),
Premier Holidays
(www.premierholidays.co.uk), North
America Travel Service
(www.northamericatravelservice.co.uk),
Funway Holidays (www.funwayholidays.co.uk) and Trekamerica
(www.trekamerica.co.uk).
tourist information
Visit California: www.visitcalifornia.co.uk
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13TLMautumn-Anzere 14/10/11 09:46 Page 1
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I
t was Sunday morning and time for tea in the tiny
Hong Kong caf where my fellow travellers and I
were sat. Milk tea, that is a local favourite. And
it was doing a roaring trade, with the few seats
grabbed as soon as they were vacated and locals
queuing to buy take-away snacks and drinks.
Actually, caf is probably too grand a description.
This was an industrial-looking dai pai dong, or open-air
food stall, although inside a food market. Once
widespread, relatively few now survive as a result of
strict licensing and controls.
Finding such gems would be impossible by yourself.
But we were on a behind-the-scenes tour of Kowloon,
the mainland part of Hong Kong, discovering hidden
delights off its well-trodden tourist circuit. After haggling
for trinkets in the Jade Market, we visited a pearl shop
for some rather more expensive bargaining, then set off
exploring on foot.
First stop, a lively street market full of exotic fruits, meat
and fish, followed by one of Hong Kongs oldest streets,
Shanghai Street, then a park with locals playing board games
in the shade and, tucked between buildings, an elaborately-
decorated temple where incense hung heavy in the air.
Finally it was time for dim sum lunch, at the award-
winning Super Star Seafood restaurant only we would
be making it ourselves. With expert guidance by the
chefs during our hour-long lesson we tried our hands at
creating various dumplings, with varying degrees of
success. But we were all awarded certificates before
tucking in to our home-cooked meal, which was unex-
pectedly tasty. A fitting end to a fascinating tour.
Hong Kong is very much a destination that draws you
in so that you feel part of the hubbub of daily life. Hardly
surprising, given the former British colonys compact
Street life
Former colonial outposts Hong Kong and Macau have continued to burgeon under Chinese rule
and offer experiences that are worlds apart yet just a ferry ride from each other. Peter
Ellegard takes to the streets to explore these pulsating Asian siblings
escape to nhong kong & macau
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Hong Kong Tourism Board
EscapeTLMautumn11v1pp15-18_T&L 14/10/2011 17:07 Page 15
size and the huge population crammed into it. One of
my abiding memories from visits there is of flying in to
land at the old Kai Tak Airport and passing so close to
high-rise apartments that you could wave at the residents
on their balconies.
tai chi
Escape the noise and bustle of its crowded streets by
taking the tram up to the top of Victoria Peak
(www.thepeak.com.hk) on Hong Kong Island, known
locally as The Peak. You may not escape the throng, as
it is Hong Kongs most popular attraction, but you are
rewarded with wonderful panoramic views of the citys
soaring skyscrapers and Victoria Harbour, as well as
forested mountains and smaller islands. Get there early
enough and you can join in free beginners tai chi
classes, held on four days a week as part of the tourist
offices Cultural Kaleidoscope programme.
Avoid the tram queues and walk back down the path,
gaps between the trees and luxuriant vegetation suddenly
opening up stunning vistas. It is also worth visiting The
Peak at night, with the city spectacularly lit up below you.
The Peak trip can be done as part of a day-long Hong
Kong Island tour, also taking in a harbour sampan ride at
Aberdeen fishing village and a scenic drive via pretty
Deep Water Bay and Repulse Bay to Stanley, where you
can barter with traders for silk pashminas or Chinese
emperor-style dressing gowns in Stanley Market
(www.hk-stanley-market.com) before reviewing your
bargains over a leisurely lunch.
You can also escape the hectic street life on a sunset
boat trip to Lamma Island, visiting the Fisherfolks
Village, where you can try fishing, followed by a
seafood dinner before returning to watch Victoria
Harbours dazzling, nightly Symphony of Lights sound
and light show, played out on its high rises. If you are
not on a boat, the best place to watch it from is at
Kowloons Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, reached by a short
crossing aboard the Star Ferry from Hong Kong Island.
lantau island
If you are in Hong Kong for a few days, other things
you can do include visiting the Ocean Park marine
theme park (www.oceanpark.com.hk) at Aberdeen,
heading to Lantau Island for Hong Kong Disneyland
(www.hongkongdisneyland.com),
the Giant Buddha, Po Lin
Monastery (www.plm.org.hk) and
Ngong Ping Village
(www.np360.com.hk), enjoying
panoramic views from the Ngong Ping
cable car, or perhaps hiking in the New
Territories parks, taking a harbour
cruise on the Duk Ling
(www.dukling.com.hk) junk and
shopping in Tsim Sha Tsuis Nathan
Road and nearby Mong Kok,
where the Ladies Market
belies its name and offers
bargains for all.
At night, besides Victo-
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n Tai Chi on The
Peak, Hong Kong
n Lantau Islands
Giant Buddha
n Take a
harbour cruise
on the Duk
Ling junk
n Kowloons
Jade Market
n Kowloon
market
fishmonger
ria Peak and the Symphony of Lights, you can watch
horse racing at Happy Valley (www.happyvalleyrace-
course.com), home of the Hong Kong Jockey Club, or
go clubbing in the Lan Kwai Fong and Wan Chai enter-
tainment districts as well as in Causeway Bay, where you
also find great local restaurants. Stanley, Kowloon and
Tsim Sha Tsui are other good places to eat without
breaking the bank. But there are many top-class restau-
rants if you want to dine in style, particularly at
upmarket hotels such as The Langham
(www.langhamhotels.com), the Renaissance Harbour
View (www.marriott.co.uk) and the Island Shangri-La
(www.shangri-la.com).
Just 15 years ago, Hong Kong was in its last days
under British rule and was facing an uncertain future as
a holiday destination, with many wondering how it
would change after its handover to China. The fears were
misplaced, as it has not lost any of its vibrancy and has
even more to offer visitors now than ever before.
macau
The same can be said of former Portuguese colony
Macau, which reverted to China just two years later to
become a Special Administrative Region like its near-
neighbour. Less than an hour from Hong Kong by fast
ferry and often linked with it on twin-centre holidays,
Macau is undergoing huge investment in its tourism
industry. Much of that has been in mega casino hotels,
notably in the Cotai Strip (www.cotaistrip.com.mo)
dubbed Asias Las Vegas.
Queen of the Cotai Strip is The Venetian Macao, a
$2.4 billion resort that opened in August 2007. It is on a
positively gargantuan scale, as I discovered when I flew
in as an invited guest for its grand opening. Our coach
pulled into what seemed like a giant aircraft hangar,
although actually its own dedicated bus terminal, the
illusion underlined by a marshal waving the driver into a
parking bay using airport-style glowing wands.
I have been to most of the casino hotels in Las Vegas,
but the sheer size of this edifice was staggering to take
in. Walking from my room to any of the public areas
required planning followed by what seemed like a route
march, while the casino itself was a vast windowless
cavern with endless rows of jangling, flashing slot
machines interspersed by dozens of gaming tables. It felt
like Dantes Inferno on speed.
The 3,000-suite hotel Asias largest single structure
and the worlds second-largest building also features
more than 350 shops in its Venice-themed Grand Canal
Shoppes retail area, complete with a canal and gondolas,
as well as 30 restaurants, a 15,000-seat arena and the
1,800-seat Venetian Theatre, which is home to the
permanent Cirque du Soleil show, Zaia.
Matching it for spectacle is the Theatre of Dreams,
with its 250 million House of Dancing Water spectacu-
lar, in the Cotai Strips City of Dreams
(www.cityofdreamsmacau.com). Most of Macaus
large hotels have resident bands as well as clubs, bars
and restaurants. Youll also find buzzing nightlife in the
trendy clubs of waterfront theme park Fishermans
Wharf (www.fishermanswharf.com.mo).
hong kong and macau tips
l Hong Kong is more than just a city 70% of the land is rural and there are
more than 260 islands, plus over 30 beaches.
l Hong Kong can easily be combined with other destinations in Asia or
Australasia.
l Hong Kong and Macau are a gourmets paradise. You can find any kind of cuisine,
including dim sum, in Hong Kong while Macaus cuisine has a strong Portuguese
element.
l Ride Hong Kongs iconic, double-decker trams known locally as Ding Dongs
to get a real flavour of the destination, hopping on and off to explore sights.
l Macaus 17th-century Guia Fortress is the oldest lighthouse on Chinas coast.
l Top festivals in Macau include the Dragon Boat Festival, held in June at Nam Van
Lakes, and the International Fireworks Display Contest, held over three weeks
until October 1.
l Hong Kongs events include its own Dragon Boat Festival, in June, as well as the
Tin Hau Fishermans Festival in April/May and Cheung Chau Bun Festival in
May/June.
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n Aberdeen Harbour, Hong Kong
n The bright
lights of
Macau
world heritage site
But what sets Macau apart, and for me what makes it
such a special place, is its rich blend of Portuguese and
Chinese heritage. It was a Portuguese colony for over
four centuries until its handover in 1999 and its historic
centre was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
in 2005.
Macaus historic heart spans eight elegant squares
and it comprises the most complete array of European
architectural legacy in China. Gems include the ruins of
St Pauls, the faade of a church originally built in 1594
but ravaged by fire in 1835. It is the symbol of Macau.
Facing out across St Dominics Square is the ornate,
yellow-painted St Dominics Church, dating to 1587 and
the first church built in China. An annual spectacle not
to miss if you are in Macau is the Procession of Our
Lady of Fatima, in which women clad in white bear a
statue every May 13.
Adjacent Senado Square, with its wavy-patterned
cobbles surrounded by glorious old buildings, is another
crowd-puller. Make sure you take in Macaus Chinese
heritage, too, at places including the tranquil and beauti-
ful, red-walled A-Ma Temple, with the flowing tiles of
Barra Square in front.
There are plenty of other attractions to explore, too.
Museums encompass the Maritime Museum
(www.museumaritimo.gov.mo), Macau Museum
(www.macaumuseum.gov.mo) and Grand Prix
Museum (http://gp.macau.grandprix.gov.mo), cele-
brating the annual Formula 3 Macau Grand Prix. Then
theres the cone-shaped Macau Science Centre and
Fishermans Wharf, featuring three themed areas with
restaurants, cafs, shops and street entertainment, as
well as the landmark, 1,100ft Macau Tower
(www.macautower.com.mo), from which the brave
can hurl themselves off on the Bungy Jump or take a
more sedate, 20-second journey down with a SkyJump,
while others can simply take in the view from on high in
the revolving 360 Caf.
At just 11 square miles, Macau packs so much in you
will wish you had allowed more time for your stay.
Combine it with Hong Kong and you will have a fasci-
nating and action-packed twin-centre break that will
have you planning your return as soon as you leave.
hong kong and macau facts
when to go
Hong Kong and Macau have a tropical
climate with high humidity. October-
March is the most pleasant time of
year, when humidity levels are lower.
getting there
Direct Hong Kong flights from
London are operated by British Airways
(www.ba.com), Cathay Pacific
(www.cathaypacific.com), Virgin Atlantic
(www.virgin-atlantic.com), Qantas (www.qantas.co.uk) and Air
New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.co.uk).
Macau has its own airport with regional flights but most people go by
fast ferry, with direct services from Hong Kong International Airport,
Hong Kong Island and Kowloon taking an hour or less.
getting around
Public transport in Hong Kong is world class, with frequent services on
its bus, tram and MTR underground networks. Buy an Octopus Card,
similar to Londons Oyster Card, for best value. Cross-harbour services
are operated by Star Ferry, while other ferries link outlying islands. Taxis
are also plentiful and good value, as they are in Macau, where buses and
pedicabs are other ways to get around.
accommodation
All top hotel chains are in Hong Kong, offering accommodation and
service levels of the highest quality. If you have a head for heights, stay in
the worlds tallest hotel, the newly-opened Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong
(www.ritzcarlton.com) or perhaps grande dames such as the historic
Peninsula Hotel (www.peninsula.com/hongkong) or Mandarin
Oriental (www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong).
Macaus hotel scene is dominated by luxury casino hotels. Choose from
The Venetian Macao (www.venetianmacao.com), Wynn Macau
(www.wynnmacau.com), Hard Rock Hotel
(www.hardrockhotelmacau.com) and others or, for a quieter
getaway, the Westin Resort, Macau (www.starwoodhotels.com), the
only resort on Macaus Hac Sa Beach.
tour operators
Companies offering packages include Virgin Holidays
(www.virginholidays.co.uk), Audley Travel
(www.audleytravel.com), Kuoni
(www.kuoni.co.uk), Bridge & Wickers
(www.bridgeandwickers.co.uk),
Premier Holidays
(www.premierholidays.co.uk),
Funway Holidays
(www.funwayholidays.co.uk)
and Hayes & Jarvis
(www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk).
tourist information
Hong Kong Tourism Board:
www.discoverhongkong.com/uk
Macau Government Tourist Office: www.macautourism.gov.mo
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ruins, Macau
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Temple
statue,
Macau
n The Peak
tram at night
41TLMautumn 14/10/11 16:16 Page 1
M
y first ranching holiday was the ulti-
mate in lucky breaks. Riding out on
the range as a rookie cowgirl, I was
shown how to inject antibiotics into
the flanks of kicking calves while Hip,
son of Lloyd Tillett, the TX Ranch
patriarch, castrated them with a knife.
That may sound cruel, but thats the way they do it
in Montana. Indeed thats the way theyve been doing
it, though initially without the drugs, since William
Tillett and his wife, Bessie, established their home-
stead near Lovell, Wyoming, in 1895. Their first cattle,
bought in from Amarillo, Texas, had the TX brand that
is still used today.
In the 21st century, Lloyd and his wife Abbie keep
1,200 breeding cows and progeny too numerous to count
on grasslands straddling the state line. When I was there
in July, sleek herds were enjoying lush summer pastures,
bright with wild flowers, on the Montana side. Happily I
was back in my western saddle at the end of the days
work when a rattler reared into attack mode under my
horses hooves. Likewise when a black bear walked
purposefully along the edge of a gorge, perhaps 50 yards
away, but fortunately on the other side.
Who can say they didnt fantasise about living the cowboy lifestyle as youngsters? Today, city
slickers can swap their laptops for Stetsons and ride tall in the saddle on ranching holidays from
Canada to Argentina and as far afield as Australia. Cowgirl at heart, Minty Clinch dons her spurs
to give the lowdown
lets try nranching holidays
Home on
the range
n Galloping on the
prairie at Paradise
Ranch, Wyoming
American Round-Up
LetsTryTLMautumn11v1pp21-24_T&L 14/10/2011 17:05 Page 21
Each night, we stretched out under the stars in our
sleeping bags sated with Abbies magnificent home
cooking, only to awake to barking dogs and thrashing
hooves as wolves or bears approached the derelict corral.
Each morning, Abbie would say: Darn, them horses
jumped out again. But as Hip preferred the excitement
of rounding them up to the grind of fixing the
woodwork, thats how it had to be.
With so much action 24/7, the TX horses are fit for
purpose and eager to gallop, whether pursuing errant steers
or rounding up young horses at racing pace on the plains of
Little Bighorn, scene of Custers last stand in 1876.
dude ranches
When the Tillets established their working guest ranch
in 1976, they broke new ground in a country that
already had plenty of well-established dude ranches.
Thats the kind where guests, many of them novices in
the saddle, live in luxury and walk out with the due
caution required to prevent injury litigation.
Typically, they appeal to multi-generational holiday-
makers, with games and petting zoos for the children, art
and cookery classes for the sedentary and skeet shooting
and archery for the wannabes who need a target to hit.
These are the two extremes of the holiday ranching
industry but, as I learned when I visited Lonesome Spur
near Bridger, Montana, some ranches are better than
others. Owned by the Schwend family since the late 19th
century, it was converted into a guest ranch by Lonnie
and his then wife, Darlene, in 1993.
Shortly afterwards, author Nick Evans stopped off
during his research for The Horse Whisperer and
modelled Frank and Dianne Booker, the heros brother
and sister-in-law, on his hosts.
In real life, Lonnie is as laid back as Frank. A superb
rider, he trains his splendid young horses with his own
version of the Monty Roberts horse whisperer tech-
nique, rather than breaking them in with strong bits and
spurs as cowboys used to do.
Like the Tilletts, the Schwends offer their guests a
working ranch experience, but mine was restricted to a
very slow cattle drive on a horse so fat that the saddle
slipped round at any pace above a walk, a potentially
alarming result.
The other days during my stay were given over to
shopping, the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range and the
Buffalo Bill Wild West Museum in Cody, an agenda that
found no favour with glamorous French clients whod
come dressed to make it like cowgirls. As they also
planned to go to the local bar to pick up cowboys, both
sending home offences in the Schwend etiquette
manual, theyre not likely to be repeat customers.
The moral of this is that picking the right holiday for
your ability and ambitions requires research and plan-
ning, especially now that ranching has gone global.
Heres where you can take ranch holidays:
united states
Say ranch and most people would think Texas, the tradi-
tional heart of the cattle business and the place where
real men shoot down their enemies in dusty streets at
high noon. It doesnt disappoint, particularly in Bandera
nicknamed the Cowboy Capital of the World.
Since Hollywoods popular comedy, City Slickers,
introduced the nation to rookie cowboys on the cattle
trail in the 1990s, horse-rich California has diversified
into ranch holidays to suit every aspiration.
The Rockies, with their high summer pastures, are
Wherever
you can ski
in winter,
you can ride
the range in
summer
n Horse riding in
British Columbia, Canada
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perfect for cattle-led holidays. As a rule of thumb, wher-
ever you can ski in winter, you can ride the range in
summer. That means Montana, Idaho, Wyoming,
Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico, but
note that the season is shorter and the weather colder the
further north you go. Rodeo festivals maintain the tradi-
tions of the Old West, with bucking, roping and
barrel-jumping contests, so check out dates near your
destination before you book.
From the pizzazz of Las Vegas, a 35-minute helicop-
ter flight takes you straight to the Grand Canyon Ranch
Resort on the canyons West Rim, where accommoda-
tion is in pine cabins or traditional Native American
tepees. Activities include guided horse rides, wagon
rides on the historic Mormon Trail, roping demonstra-
tions, cowboy stories and fireside sing-alongs.
Horse-back or wagon buffalo safaris have just been
introduced.
Theres also a case for looking outside the box. South
Dakota, for example, has a proud equestrian tradition,
with Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial
thrown in for good measure, while Kentucky, Oklahoma
and Kansas showcase American diversity in the saddle.
Few would associate Hawaii with ranching, but the Big
Island, in particular, has an enormous cattle industry
with facilities for range riding of all kinds.
You can also join in a cattle drive in several states,
helping to move the cattle to or from their summer graz-
ing pastures.
canada
North of the border, Calgary, home to the celebrated
Stampede each July, is the focus for ranch holidays in
Alberta. Many of the outdoor scenes in the award-
n Camp fire singalongs are popular
n Grand Canyon
Ranch, Arizona
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Peter Ellegard
Horse culture rules the world its just a
question of finding the right way in.
Throughout Central Asia extended
families spend their summers in remote
ger (yurt) camps, tending mixed flocks of
yak, goats, horses, cattle and sheep. Why
not try an escorted riding and
camping trip in Mongolia or
Kyrgyzstan with niche adventure
company, Wild Frontiers
(www.wildfrontiers.co.uk)?
The US heads the western location
list, but the giant El Questro ranch
(www.elquestro.com.au) in the
Kimberleys hosted the dramatic cattle drive
in Australia, Baz Luhrmanns romantic epic
set in World War II. Leading lady Nicole
Kidman was not so fortunate when
she tried for a reservation in the
luxurious Homestead, there was no room at the inn.
If riding, yoga and game viewing is your scene, Ants
Nest in South Africa will provide all the necessary
bells and whistles. The private safari lodge maximum
of eight guests offers provides a flexible schedule to
suit individual tastes (www.rideworldwide.co.uk).
Get stuck into a chukka on a guest ranch in
Argentina, the worlds top polo nation. The La
Martina residential club (www.poloholidays.com),
100km outside Buenos Aires, is owned by the
mother of world number one, Adolfo Cambiaso.
There are lessons for beginners, but experienced
players take part in games with club members from
Buenos Aires, an inside track introduction to the
glamorous polista circuit.
alternative
action
n Argentina ranches
offer polo lessons
and games
winning movie, Brokeback Mountain, were filmed
among dramatic lakes and waterfalls in Kananaskis
Country, an extensive park with lots of great riding
country within 30 minutes of the downtown area.
British Columbia, the countrys most westerly and
mountainous province, has hidden secrets that deserve to
be explored. They include Tsylos Park Lodge, set in a
scenic area for trail riding and camping between the
Coastal Mountains and the Chilcotin Plateau, and Clay-
oquot Wilderness Resort, near Tofino on Vancouver Island.
south america
For cowboy, read gaucho, for ranch, read estancia, but
the name of the game is the same, with men born in the
saddle exhibiting skills the rest of us can only marvel at.
Over much of Argentina, the pampas stretch as far as
the eye can see, herds that run into thousands mere dots
on the horizon. Gauchos wear baggy pants held up with
woven cotton sashes and cheeky berets or pork pie hats,
a different look to the cowboys checked shirts, blue
jeans and stetsons. Riding in the foothills of the Andes,
especially in northern Patagonia, is more interesting than
the flatlands.
In Ecuador, my ride from estancia to estancia, often
with formal dinner hosted by the lord of the manor,
provided insights into a yesteryear culture that has
changed little over the past century.
australia and new zealand
For gaucho, read jackeroo, for estancia, read cattle
station, but again these are nations of stockmen engaged
in raising cattle and sheep in the back of beyond. In the
21st century, Aussie farmers tend to round up their
animals on motorbikes, but many stations are still eager
to host riding holidays.
The arrival of travelling shearers on a wool-harvest-
ing mission marks the start of a party that lasts for the
duration. This is especially true in New Zealand,
famously home to just 4.5 million people but
60 million sheep.
Freelance travel journalist Minty Clinch writes about global
adventures for a range of national newspapers and
magazines. Chasing her recalcitrant Shetland pony, The
Nipper, round a paddock as a toddler proved the perfect
preparation for wilderness camping and crossing continents
on horseback in later years, often with a herd of cattle to
the fore.
ranch holiday facts
sample holidays
The season is short in Montana so Ranch Rider advise early booking for
the TX Ranch summer pastures camps. Day to day action includes de-
horning, branding, tagging, wrangling young horses and chasing down stray
cattle as well as castrating, though guests can chill if they prefer. Seven
nights tented accommodation with full board and riding costs from 989
per person including pick up at Billings airport. Flights from 675. Over-
16s only.
In The Saddle offers cutting-edge adventure at Estancia Huechahue near
San Martin de Los Andes in Patagonia, Argentina. Variants include camping
trips on horseback through monkey puzzle forests among snow-capped
volcanic cones, seasonal cattle drives to distant parts of Patagonian Steppe
and fishing trips. Seven nights accommodation in two lodges with all meals
and drinks starts at 1,696, excluding flights. Children over six welcome.
Western and Oriental offers seven nights staying at 923-acre Tiger Mountain
Ranch in Oklahoma, a guest ranch which mostly offers scenic Western riding,
from 1,665 per person and includes return flights, transfers, taxes, gratuities
and full board at the ranch and most ranch activities, with accommodation in a
tepee or a lodge room. Wranglers show guests cowboy activities including
shooting Old West guns, cattle ranching and learning to live off the land.
American Round-Up features the Lonesome Spur Ranch in Montana. One
of the best times to go is late May or early June, when activities include
moving cattle into summer grazing and possibly branding. Return flights
from London to Billings, a first nights hotel and seven nights at the ranch
with accommodation, full board, ranch activities, Billings transfers, tax and
tips costs from 1,799.
ranch holiday specialists
American Round Up: 01798 865946,
www.americanroundup.com. North
American ranch and adventure specialists.
In the Saddle: 01299 272997,
www.inthesaddle.com. Dude, guest
and working ranches in the US and
Canada, plus worldwide riding holidays and
explorer trails in Australia and New Zealand.
Ranch Rider: 01509 618811,
www.ranchrider.com. US, Canada, Argentina, South Africa & Botswana.
Unicorn Trails: 01767 600606, www.unicorntrails.com. Many countries
in Latin America (including Brazil, Mexico, Costa Rica and the Dominican
Republic).
Western and Oriental: 020 7963 6657, www.wandotravel.com. Tailor-
made ranch holidays or add-ons to other holidays in North America.
ranches
TX Ranch, Montana: www.txranch.com
Lonesome Spur Ranch, Montana: www.lonesomespur.com
Grand Canyon Ranch Resort, Arizona: www.grandcanyonranch.com
Tsylos Park Lodge, British Columbia, Canada: www.tsylos.com
more information
The Dude Ranchers Association (www.duderanch.org), founded in 1926,
provides a rundown on over 100 dude ranches in the western United States.
n Riding in the
Alberta Rockies
n Kara Creek Ranch
in Wyoming
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Western & Oriental
Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 25
A fantastic four-night Scottish
Highlands wildlife break for two
at the Grant Arms Hotel home
of the Bird Watching & Wildlife
Club is up for grabs in this
fantastic competition!
Located in the charming country
town of Grantown-on-Spey in the
Cairngorms National Park, the
Grant Arms Hotel provides an ideal
base to explore the stunning
scenery and abundance of local
wildlife. No other area can offer the
chance to see golden eagle,
capercaillie, pine marten, red
squirrel, red deer, mountain hare,
ptarmigan, crested tit, crossbill,
osprey, red and black-throated diver,
otter, Slavonian
grebe, red and
black grouse,
bottlenose
dolphin and much more!.
The winner will not
only visit an exceptional Scottish
location, but have the advice and
guidance of the Bird Watching &
Wildlife Club, which offers a
programme of free events,
including guided walks,
wildlife briefings, talks,
quizzes and film screenings.
The BWWC can also provide
maps and guides, as
well as information
about local wildlife
hotspots and escorted trips
everything you need for an
extraordinary wildlife watching
holiday in the Highlands.
The prize break is for up to two
people, on a dinner, bed & breakfast
basis for four nights, sharing a
superior twin or double room. It
can be taken any time before
April 30, 2012, subject to room
availability and excluding stays over
Christmas and New Year.
For more information about
the Grant Arms Hotel and the
Bird Watching & Wildlife Club,
visit www.bwwc.co.uk.
how to enter
To WIN a four-night wildlife stay
at the Grant Arms Hotel, simply
answer this question:
Question: In which national park
is the Grant Arms Hotel located?
competitions nhighlands wildlife break + yorkshire spa stay
To enter, go to
and click on Competitions.
Closing date is November 18,
2011. Terms and conditions
apply; see website for details.
WIN a 850 wildlife break for
two in the Highlands of Scotland
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Main photo and background: Noel Marry
n Grant
Arms Hotel
n Ptarmigan in
the Highlands
n Crested tit
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ituated on the Duke of Devonshires
30,000-acre Bolton Abbey Estate in the
Yorkshire Dales, The Devonshire Arms
Country House Hotel & Spa boasts 40 luxury
bedrooms, each individual in style. The Old
Wing dates back to 1757 and has fantastic
charm and character, while the modern
Wharfedale Wing was added by the then
Duchess of Devonshire in 1982 and refur-
bished by the current Duchess in early 2009.
Enjoy two of Yorkshires most highly-
regarded restaurants the refined Burlington
with a Michelin star and four AA rosettes, or
the lively and colourful Devonshire Brasserie
and Bar. Both offer excellent food, a superb
wine list and dedicated attention from enthu-
siastic staff. Fresh local produce including
estate meat and game with seasonal vegeta-
bles and herbs from the kitchen gardens give
an outstanding adventure of tastes and
textures in the Burlington restaurant.
At the Devonshire Health Barn, its all about
you, your good health and wellbeing. Relax
completely and let an Elemis treatment work its
magic. Youll feel rejuvenated and wonderfully
invigorated. Elemis spa therapies are designed
to respect the bodys complex physiology, and
to work in natural synergy with your skin.
You can win a one-night break for two at The
Devonshire Arms, including overnight accom-
modation in a suite, an eight-course Michelin
star tasting menu with the sommeliers choice of
wine, and two 30-minute spa treatments, worth
over 425. The prize is valid Sunday-Thursday
until May 18, 2012 and excludes Christmas,
New Year and Valentines Day.
Visit www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk for
more information.
how to enter
To WIN a one-night stay for two at The Devon-
shire Arms, simply answer this question:
Question: On which estate is The Devonshire
Arms?
To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
and click on the Competitions button. Closing
date is November 18, 2011. See website for
terms & conditions.
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n The Devonshire Arms exterior
n Michelin-
star food
WIN a 425 Michelin dinner and spa stay at
The Devonshire Arms
n New Wing
bedroom
Competitionsp27tlmautumn11v1_T&L 14/10/2011 17:10 Page 27
uk uncovered nbritains spa towns
Bathing beauties
Fashionable, elegant and promising to cure all manner of ailments with their
mineral-rich springs, the UKs spa towns have been attracting the well-heeled
for centuries. John Law takes the waters and examines some of the best
surviving examples from the golden age of spa tourism
UKuncoveredTLMautumn11v128-34_T&L 14/10/2011 16:36 Page 28
T
hey started with the Romans, became the
height of fashion in Georgian times and
enjoyed a further renaissance under the
health-obsessed Victorians. Modern medicine
killed off most of Britains spa bathing and
treatment centres by the middle of the last
century, but the elegant towns that grew around them
remain agreeable places to visit.
bath
Take the plunge for a new perspective on Georgian
Bath. Whether its a sizzling summers day or a freez-
ing night in February, bobbing around in the warm
outdoor pool atop the citys Thermae Spa is a great
way to relax after shopping or footslogging on the
tourist trail.
Gazing across rooftops to the Abbey and green hills
beyond, todays Bath bathers can thank poor King
Bladud and the Romans for discovering the therapeutic
benefits of the hot, mineral-rich waters. Legend has it
the hot springs cured the Celtic king of his leprosy, while
the Romans later built a great temple and magnificent
bath-house dedicated to the goddess Minerva.
The restored Roman Baths are now among the UKs
top tourist attractions. You cant bathe there, but they
draw almost one million visitors a year and many pop
next door afterwards to the elegant Georgian Pump
Rooms for lunch or tea, or a glass of the reputedly
healthy but weird-tasting water from the spa fountain.
Bath became a leading spa resort during its 18th
century heyday, when those famous sweeping crescents,
elegant squares and parks were developed. Last
year, 4.5 million visitors flocked there for the
grand architecture and first-rate shopping
and to enjoy a session at the countrys only
remaining thermal baths.
Opened in the city-centre five years ago,
the striking Thermae Bath Spa buildings
combine classic Georgian architecture with
modern glass and steel. There are four pools
fed by the natural hot springs, steam rooms
infused with frankincense, eucalyptus and other essential
oils, treatment rooms and a restaurant.
royal tunbridge wells
Feeling listless and in need of a tonic? The nearest spa
town to London and the only one in the South East
is Royal Tunbridge Wells, where a glass of iron-rich
water from the Chalybeate Spring might liven you up.
The source was discovered in 1606 and, by Georgian
times, the Kent town was a favourite among royalty and
nobility as a place to see and be seen. Notable imbibers
of the great cure-all included Queen Anne and Queen
Victoria, Samuel Pepys and Daniel Defoe.
Today, Tunbridge Wells is a prosperous commuter
town surrounded by glorious Wealden countryside.
Those taking the 4 town tour are shown the original
village area around the Grove, the shops in the historic
colonnaded Pantiles, old lodging houses on Mount
Ephraim, pretty clapboard cottages, elegant Regency
villas and grand Victorian homes. They finish with a
reviving glass of the Chalybeate water, often served by a
dipper in traditional costume.
harrogate
Spa buildings dont come much grander than the
ornately-styled Royal Baths, home of Harrogates Turk-
ish Baths and Health Spa. The great Islamic arches,
vibrant glazed brickwork, arabesque painted ceilings
and terrazzo floors still provide exotic surroundings in
which to relax.
Discovery of the springs of Harrogate
dates back about four centuries and the
Royal Baths, which opened in 1897,
claimed to be the worlds most
advanced centre for hydrotherapy. In
addition to the Turkish baths, there
were mud baths and steam rooms and
medicinal waters on offer. Intrepid
Victorians could sign up to a range of
bizarre treatments, such as the Plombiere
n Thermae
Bath Spa
n The Inner Space,
Thermae Bath Spa
n Dippers at the
Chalybeate Spring
n The
Pantiles,
Royal
Tunbridge
Wells
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douche, the Schnee electric hydrotherapy bath, saline
sulphur and peat baths.
Harrogate is unique as a spa town because of its vari-
ety of mineral waters. The saline sulphur bath was
prescribed by the consulting doctors as good for gout,
rheumatism and hepatic disorders, while the alkaline
sulphur water was used for skin diseases.
Modern medicine and technology hastened the
closure of the treatment centre in 1969, but a two-year
10 million redevelopment of the Royal Baths started in
2002 restored the building to its former glory. Todays
visitors can still luxuriate in the Turkish Baths and book
various pampering sessions.
Those interested in the history of this attractive North
Yorkshire town can visit the Royal Pump Room Museum
to see the old sulphur well and sample the spa water. The
beautiful Valley Gardens with their own mineral springs
are a great place to relax, while active types can
go walking, climbing, fishing or wildlife-spot-
ting on the nearby Yorkshire Dales.
cheltenham
The first Cheltenham guide in 1781
described a visit as a journey of health
and pleasure. The natural springs had
only been discovered a few years earlier and
when King George III spent five weeks taking
the waters there in 1788 the Cotswold towns reputation
took off as one of the countrys most fashionable spas.
The Duke of Wellington, suffering from a dodgy
liver, gave Cheltenham further prominence when he
visited early in the 19th century. The ensuing building
boom saw the development of sweeping, classical
terraces and squares, elegant villas set in landscaped
estates and broad, tree-lined walks.
Cheltenham retains its elegant architecture and claims
to be Englands most complete Regency town. A must-
see attraction is the magnificent, colonnaded and domed
Pittville Pump Room, set amid the gardens and orna-
mental lakes of Pittville Park.
Here the cream of Regency and Victorian society
would attend grand balls and take the medicinal waters.
It is still used as a venue for entertainment and weddings
and the water continues to be pumped up from a well
80ft below.
Cheltenham spa water is claimed to be the only natu-
ral consumable alkaline variety in Britain, its chief
action being antacid and mildly diuretic. Its also laxative
an important consideration for imbibers planning a
subsequent visit to the towns stylish shops, or its
renowned horse-racing, music or literature festivals.
buxton
Buxton in Derbyshire has some of the countrys purest
spring water, which can be sampled, free of charge,
from a well dating back to the Middle Ages. St Anns
Well was visited in Tudor times by Mary Queen of
Scots when she was held captive at nearby Chatsworth.
Before that, the Romans built baths here served by the
warm springs which emerge at a constant 28C.
The towns attraction as a spa resort gathered
pace in the late 18th century, when the fifth
Duke of Devonshire built the Crescent
alongside St Anns Well. Thermal baths
and more fine buildings were added and
the railways arrival in 1863 ushered in a
golden age.
Buxtons thermal baths closed in the
1950s and todays visitors are drawn by the
annual arts festivals, the ornate Edwardian
opera house and the Peak District countryside.
spa hotels
None of Britains grand, old hotels still offer
authentic mineral water baths and
treatments, although several new ones are on
the drawing board.
Baths planned five-star Gainsborough
Hotel will feature its own thermal baths near
the citys Thermae Bath Spa, although the
project is much delayed. Also at the planning
stage is major redevelopment of Buxtons
magnificent old Crescent building as a five-
star hotel offering thermal spa treatments.
Meanwhile, visitors to Bath seeking
accommodation with an on-site modern spa
book properties such as the five-star, 18th
century Macdonald Bath Spa. In Buxton, Old
Hall is reputed to be Englands oldest hotel
and entertained Mary Queen of Scots when
she sampled the waters. The Barcelo Palace
is an imposing Victorian hotel built when
Buxtons spa tourism was booming.
The Cottage in the Wood is a historic
hotel built in the hillside near Malverns Holy
Well, while the Malvern Hotel is a modern
property with an award-winning spa.
Fine Georgian and Regency buildings which
once enjoyed a thriving trade from visitors
taking the waters include The George in
Cheltenham, The Spa in Tunbridge Wells, the
recently-refurbished Crown in Harrogate,
and The Angel, a former Leamington coaching
inn.
One of Droitwichs more popular hotels is
St Andrews Town Hotel, built as the town
clerks house in 1820.
The Metropole in Llandrindod Wells was
the largest hotel in Wales when it opened in
the 1890s with its own spa treatment centre.
That closed in 1972 but the hotel, now a
four-star property, does offer a modern spa.
Cheltenham
retains its
elegant
architecture
and claims to
be Englands
most
complete
Regency
town
n Buxton has some
of the countrys
purest spring water
n Temple, Buxton
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Visit Peak District & Derbyshire
tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011 32
Visit Herefordshire's
6th AnnuaI
Food FestivaI
/LYH GHPRV ZLWK
FXOLQDU\ JHQLXV
jean-Christophe NoveIIi
www.herefordshirefoodfestivaI.com
Ticket 0ffice: 01432 273560
www.hereford-racecourse.co.uk
FestivaI enquiries 01432 26S430
5at 22 6
5un 23
0ctober 2011
10amto 4.30pm
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Visit
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Welcome to the Peak Districts
nest hotel & spa...
Its ofcial, the peak districts nest is now a four star hotel. set in the
heart of the Peak District National Park, Losehill House Hotel & Spa
is awarded 4 stars by the AA for its quality and hospitality.
The Hotel occupies a secluded spot on the side of Lose Hill with
stunning views overlooking Win Hill. Drive along a little lane near
Hope, equidistant from the wonderful villages of Castleton and Edale,
and join us in the midst of some of the best walking and outdoor
activity countryside in Derbyshire.
Check out www.losehillhouse.co.uk or contact us on 01433 621 219
for our midweek rates and special offers or spa breaks and enjoy the
very best of the Peak District for yourself - hill top to hot tub!
Lose Hill Lane Hope Derbyshire S33 6AF
01433 621 219 www.losehillhouse.co.uk
RESTAURANT SPA & POOL LUXURY ROOMS WEDDINGS CONFERENCES & EVENTS
royal leamington spa
Impressive claims were made for the spa treatment at
Leamingtons Royal Pump Rooms and Baths when they
opened in 1814. Relief from a huge number of disorders
was claimed including stiffness of tendons, rigidity
of the joints, and the effects of gout and rheumatism
and various paralytic conditions.
Leamington was a small Warwickshire agricultural
village until about 1800, when it started to exploit the
money-spinning potential of its mineral springs. Princess
(later Queen) Victoria was among those sampling the
saline waters and the place grew rapidly into an elegant
town of fine Regency and Victorian architecture and
beautiful gardens.
Visitors can no longer use the baths, but they can
taste the salty spring water from outside the Pump
Rooms and enjoy the rich legacy of the spa boom. The
restored Pump Rooms are home to the Assembly Rooms
and Conservatory, art gallery, library and tea rooms, and
the museum tells the story of the towns spa treatments.
Jephson Gardens, which gained prominence for its
promenading, croquet, tennis, fountains, illuminations
and military bands, has been restored with a Heritage
Lottery Fund grant and is now a Victorian oasis with a
sub-tropical glasshouse and restaurant.
malvern
Take a walk in the glorious Malvern Hills in Worcester-
shire and theres no need to pack a days supply of water
along with your sarnies. There are plenty of wells
providing that famous refreshing water if you know
where to look.
Tucked away in valleys are Holy Well and St Anns
Well, where a caf offers more refreshment. Elsewhere
signature spa
treatments
Imagine floating dreamily in warm mineral
waters that fell as rain 10,000 years ago
while being gently stretched and massaged.
Youd be hard pressed to find anything more
relaxing, claims the Thermae Bath Spa, whose
signature 50-minute Watsu treatment
soothes in the restored Georgian Hot Bath.
With eyes closed, its easy to nod off while
the therapist guides your body through a series
of flowing movements. It costs 60 and is ideal
for easing a stiff or aching back and limbs.
Signature treatments at Harrogates Turkish
Baths start off with an appropriately-Turkish
ritual in a room scented with exotic candles.
The warmed candle oil with shea butter is
then decanted and massaged into the body
during the 75-minute Eastern Temptation
option, costing 65.
For an extra 20 you can book an Eastern
Indulgence, which also includes a delicate
exfoliating full body polish with jojoba and
shea butter.
n The frigidarium
at Harrogate
Turkish Baths
n The pumprooms at
Royal Leamington Spa
n The hot bath at
Thermae Bath Spa
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are many more springs, some restored, such as the
Beauchamp Spout and the Malvhina Fountain.
Two doctors brought hydrotherapy from Austria and
built the first water cure house in Malvern in 1845. You
can no longer take the spa treatments but many impres-
sive buildings from that era are still in use as public
offices. The Council House, for example, provided the
original consulting rooms in Victorian times.
George Bernard Shaw and Edward Elgar brought
Malvern into the 20th century with their theatre and
music festivals held in the Winter Gardens. The towns
cultural life continues to thrive, with the restored Edwar-
dian theatre attracting top-class drama, ballet and opera
and the Forum Theatre is a top music venue.
The medieval Abbey Gateway houses Malverns
Museum, which gives an insight into the regions geol-
ogy and spa history.
droitwich
While other spa towns may boast of kings and queens
taking a therapeutic dip, Droitwich has the distinction
of hosting footballing royalty. In the 1970s, the entire
Manchester United team took a brine bath a treatment
claimed to be particularly beneficial for those with
rheumatic conditions.
The Worcestershire town made its fortune from salt
and the natural brine springs have been used for bathing
since Roman times. St Richards House in the town
centre was the frontage to the old Brine Baths which
closed in 1974. Another facility opened 11 years later as
part of Droitwich Spa Hospital. Sadly this has now
closed but private investors currently have plans to
develop new brine baths.
Meanwhile, swimmers can enjoy a dip in the briny at
the towns 1930s outdoor Lido, which reopened four
years ago. The natural brine is denser than the Dead Sea
but at the pool it is diluted to the density of sea water.
spa towns facts
Bath-based travel journalist
John Law advises enjoying
tea at the Pump Rooms
but to go easy glugging the
strange-tasting spa water.
llandrindod wells
The Romans were the first to enjoy the health benefits
of bathing in Llandrindods saline-sulphur spring water
and by the mid-1700s the town was described as the
Queen of Welsh Watering Places.
It then fell out of fashion until the coming of the
Central Wales Railways in 1865, when Llandrindods spa
business took off. Hotels, apartments, new treatment
centres, two pavilions, a golf course, bowling and putting
greens and a 14-acre boating lake were built to cater for
80,000 visitors a year.
The town no longer provides spa treatments, although
visitors continue to enjoy many of the 19th century
attractions. Today, Llandrindod is best known for its
annual Drama and Victorian festivals, but there are plans
to develop the former Rock Park Spa and to provide a
hydrotherapy centre.
spa towns and spa facilities
Bath www.visitbath.co.uk
Thermae Bath Spa
www.thermaebathspa.com
Roman Baths and Pump Room, Bath
www.romanbaths.co.uk
Droitwich www.droitwichspa.com
Buxtonwww.peakdistrictinformation.com
Cheltenham www.visitcheltenham.com
Harrogate www.harrogate.gov.uk/turkishbaths
Malvern www.visitthemalverns.org
Llandrindod Wells www.llandrindod.co.uk
Royal Tunbridge Wells www.visittunbridgewells.com
Royal Leamington Spa www.royal-leamington-spa.co.uk
hotels
Bath Macdonald Bath Spa: www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/bathspa;
Best Western Centurion Hotel: www.centurionhotel.co.uk
Malvern The Malvern: www.themalvernspa.com;
The Cottage in the Wood: www.cottageinthewood.co.uk
Droitwich St Andrews Town Hotel: www.st-andrewshotel.com
Leamington The Angel: www.angelhotelleamington.co.uk
Buxton Old Hall: www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk; Losehill House
Hotel: www.losehillhouse.co.uk; Barcelo Palace:
www.barcelo-hotels.co.uk
CheltenhamThe George: www.stayatthegeorge.co.uk
Harrogate The Crown:
www.crownhotelharrogate.com
Llandrindod Wells The Metropole:
www.metropole.co.uk
Tunbridge Wells The Spa:
www.spahotel.co.uk
packages
Superbreak: www.superbreak.com
Expedia: www.expedia.co.uk
Shearings Holidays: www.shearings.com
n The glorious
Malvern Hills
n The Roman
Baths, Bath
n The Pantiles Colonnade
at Tunbridge Wells
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WIN a pair of Thermae Bath Spa vouchers
We have teamed up with Thermae Bath Spa to give away a pair
of four-hour spa session vouchers, including hire of towels, robes
and slippers, worth 88. You will have access to the open-air
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35TLMautumn 14/10/11 17:07 Page 1
I
pushed open the heavy, wooden door and immedi-
ately recognised the cracked marble staircase, the
crumbling ornate pillars, and the fading homage
to Fidel painted on the wall. In 1994, this tene-
ment building in central Havana was turned into a
film set for
Toms
Gutirrez Aleas internationally-acclaimed, Fresa y
Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate), a picture I
studied almost a decade later at university.
Three flights up a dark staircase hides La Guarida
the den or hideaway where much of the movie was
filmed. It was home to a gay man called Diego, one of
the main characters. His apartment was an Aladdins
Cave of illicit art, literature and trinkets, all prohibited by
the regime.
The film was so successful that tourists arrived in
Viva the new
revolution
Cuba is embracing the post-Fidel era with investment in the tourist sector continuing apace, yet it
remains largely steadfast to its revolutionary principles. Martin Ferguson finds out why this
unique land of paradoxes continues to entice
off the beaten track ncuba
cuba tips
l Native Cubans use
the Cuban peso, but
tourists must use the
convertible peso
(CUC or CUC$)
which is valued
against the dollar. Do
not try and exchange
money outside of
your hotel or the
airport. Dollars are
sometimes accepted,
but it is not
considered official
currency.
l Cuba has extremely
low crime levels.
Police constantly
monitor locals in
tourist areas.
However, there are a
number of beggars,
especially in Havana.
Keep valuables in
your hotel room
safe.
l Toiletries and many
medicines are in
short supply, so you
are advised to take
adequate supplies.
l There are many
quality arts and crafts
markets across the
country, but beware of
buying rum and cigars
from anywhere other
than official vendors,
as you may be getting
dangerously-poor
products.
OffTheBTtlm11v1pp36-40_T&L 14/10/2011 14:09 Page 36
their droves searching for this clandestine paradise. The
real owner, Enrique Nuez del Valle, saw an opportunity.
Using the original props as decor, he opened a paladar
a dining experience unique to Cuba, where families open
private restaurants in their own front rooms named
after the movie (www.laguarida.com). Id spent so
much time analysing the iconography and symbolism of
La Guarida, it was truly surreal to be sitting in the very
same apartment gorging on the best food Cuba had to
offer. But then again, walking through the streets of
Havana you could be forgiven for thinking you were on
the worlds largest film set.
That said, the notion that Cuba is locked in a time
warp is becoming somewhat outdated. Since El Coman-
dante, Fidel Castro, transferred power to his brother Raul
in 2006, there has been modest socio-economic
progress. Cubans, for example, can now own computers
and mobile phones. Access is restricted, but there has
been enough online liberty to fuel a cultural upheaval.
Cubans can now also stay in hotels that were once the
private enclaves of foreign guests.
old cadillacs
But thankfully for tourists, there are more than
enough superficial oddities. One can still marvel at
the clapped-out Pontiacs, Buicks, Fords and
Cadillacs that chug their way noisily
through the pot-hole ridden streets (you
can usually book a classic car journey at your hotel
reception).
Its a similar story in relation to housing. While much
is invested in constructing and restoring hotels, most of
the grandiose baroque and neo-colonial buildings are
dilapidated and, often, literally falling down.
I was treated to a fairly standard itinerary during a
recent visit: Revolution Square, the Havana Club rum
museum, La Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and Ernest
Hemingways favourite watering hole, El Floridita. These
should be on every visitors to do list.
You dont have to look too hard, however, to find
something off the beaten track. For starters, forego the
lure of the luxury hotels, and bunk up with a Cuban
family for a few days. The casa particular is a similar
concept to that of the paladar. It provides the tourist with
an authentic Cuban experience, and allows some natives
to live above the breadline. Expect to pay between
5 and 80 per night.
Cigar smoking is as synonymous with Cuban
culture as salsa, and tobacco plantations and
factories are littered across the country. But
the guided tour at the Partagas factory in
central Havana should not be missed,
unless you suffer from a respiratory
illness.
Youll need to clear your lungs with
a blast of fresh air, so walk directly to
Walking
through the
streets of
Havana you
could be
forgiven for
thinking you
were on the
worlds largest
film set
n Catedral de la Habana in
Havana old town
Cuba Tourist Board
the Malecn, the concrete promenade that stretches some
eight miles along the sea front. In the morning, youll see
no more than a few amateur fishermen with homemade
rods, but from late afternoon it becomes a hive of activity
and a haven for people watching.
world heritage site
To escape the humid bustle of Havana, go to the central
station and catch the Hershey train built in 1917 by the
famous American chocolate manufacturer to transport
workers from the capital to Matanzas. Then switch lines
and move on to Santa Clara, 270km east of the capital.
What this city lacks in architectural beauty it makes
up for in history, culture and lively nightlife. It was also
the site of one of the most significant moments in Cuban
history the battle of Santa Clara. In late 1958, Che
Guevara and his guerilla army used a bulldozer to derail
a train carrying supplies and reinforcements for Batistas
army. They went on to capture the city, and less than 12
hours later Batista fled the country. A short walk from
the main square is the site where the attack took place,
and the bulldozer and fallen train carriages remain
preserved in the same spot. A mile out of town is the
Che Guevara museum and mausoleum.
A two-hour drive south is the colonial outpost, Trinidad
de Cuba. Its museums and beaches are a huge draw for
tourists. In 1988, UNESCO made this architectural jewel a
World Heritage Site. The highlight for most is a visit to the
Manaca-Iznaga tower, which commands stunning views
over the coastline and the Valley of the Mills.
resorts
Cubas modern resorts tend to receive most government
investment. The Cayos, especially Cayo Coco, are ideal
for those looking for heat, good food and some peace
and quiet. My father-in-law visits once a year, and
insists its the best part of the island.
Further west along the northern coast is Varadero, the
largest and busiest of the resorts. Its big, bustling, and
not to everyones taste. But it is best placed for those
music in havana
Cubans walk as if they are dancing. Around
every corner youll see musicians in the
street and hear the pulsating beat of salsa
or son coming from every window.
Unsurprisingly, the capital is awash with
quality music and dance venues:
l La Zorra y el Cuervo: On La Rampa,
close to the Havana Libre hotel, it is
considered one of the best jazz
nightclubs in Havana. The entrance is a
red British telephone box. Doors open
at 9pm, music is played from 1130pm
until 3am. The pay-at-the-door cover
charge is usually 10 CUC.
l Casa de la Musica de Centro
Habana: On Galiano Street, it is one of
the largest dance venues in the city.
There is usually a live afternoon show
from 4pm till 11pm before it becomes
an all-night disco after 1am. The cover
charge depends on the quality of the act,
but is generally 5-10 CUC.
l La Madriguera: On the corner of
Salvador Allende and Luaces, the home
to the Cuban union of writers and
artists is a hotbed of musical and artistic
innovation. Entry costs 5 CUC. Opening
times are 9am-7pm daily except
Thursday, when it is open until midnight.
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Cuba Tourist Board
n Havana is
awash with
music and
dance venues
n The colonial outpost
of Trinidad de Cuba
n Rum
and
pineapple
Contact us for expert advice on this unique destination
Tel: 01707 646463 Email: sales@havanatour.co.uk
www.havanatour.co.uk
Havantour has over 30 years
experience in arranging travel in Cuba.
Celebrating 15 years in our UK office
We are the Cuban specialists
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wanting to combine beach-time with day trips to the
cities and countryside.
Pinar del Rio, on the west side of the island, is only a
few hours drive away. Known as the garden of Cuba, it
boasts some of the islands most impressive landscapes
and wildlife, including the countrys red, white and blue
national bird, the Tocororo. And, like much of rural and
coastal Cuba, there are scores of outdoor activities in
which to indulge, including trekking, snorkelling and
scuba diving. Just to the north lies the Viales Valley and
its impressive El Indio limestone caves.
Rumours that the USs softening stance on Cuba will
soon lead to an invasion of tourists seem somewhat
premature. As recently as July, President Obama was
under Congressional pressure to
uphold existing laws.
However, the paralysing
embargo is sure to
come to an end sooner
rather than later, open-
ing Cuba up to American
tourists. I recommend
you get there before it
does.
cuba facts
At only 31, journalist Martin Ferguson has already
experienced some of the worlds most fascinating
destinations. But he regularly tells family and friends that
Havana is the one city they must see before they die.
when to go
Cuba enjoys 330 days of sunshine a year.
The rainy season which often brings
violent storms and occasionally
hurricanes runs from May to October.
The dry season, therefore, is from
November to April.
getting there
There are scheduled flights from London
Gatwick to Holguin and Havana with Cubana Airlines
(www.cubana.cu) and Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com).
Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com) flies from Gatwick to Havana via
Madrid. Charter flights with Thomas Cook Airlines
(www.thomascookairlines.com) and Thomson Airways
(www.thomsonfly.com) go to Varadero, Cayo Coco, Santa Clara and
Holguin.
getting around
Hire cars are available at airports.
Drivers must be at least 21. Public
transport is safe, but often extremely
busy and unreliable. Taxis are a cheap
and safe way to get around.
accommodation
The pick of Havanas hotels include the
imposing, twin-towered Hotel Nacional
(www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com) and the Hotel Saratoga
(www.hotel-saratoga.com). While Hotel Playa Pesquero
(www.hotelplayapesquerocuba.com) is the stand-out resort in
Holguin, the Blau Hotel (www.blauhotels.com) in Varadero and Tryp
Cayo Coco should also be considered. For casas particulars, visit The
Casa Particular organisation (www.casaparticularcuba.org).
tour operators
Specialists include Captivating Cuba
(www.captivatingcuba.com), Cuba
Direct (www.cubadirect.co.uk),
Havanatur (www.havanatur.com),
Headwater (www.headwater.com)
and Journey Latin America
(www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk).
Mainstream operators include Thomas Cook
(www.thomascook.com), Thomson Holidays
(www.thomson.co.uk) and Virgin Holidays
(www.virginholidays.com).
tourist information
Cuba Tourist Board:
www.travel2Cuba.co.uk
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n Varadero is Cubas
biggest resort
n Busy
Havana
n Book a classic
car at your hotel
n Havanas
Revolution Square
n Horse riding
at Viales
nCigar factories
are on the
tourist circuit
nBackground picture: Cayo Coco
Cuba Tourist Board
41TLMautumn 14/10/11 18:39 Page 1
I
f your idea of a butler springs from the pages of
Jeeves and Wooster, you may be surprised to learn
you dont have to be a member of the aristocracy
to enjoy such personal service it could come as
part of your holiday. While a hotel butler may not
be standing by to put toothpaste on your brush, as
one of Prince Charles staff was rumoured to do, they
can help with chores, such as unpacking and pressing
your clothes, or treats like running you a flower-strewn
bath at an allotted time.
When the Savoy reopened last October following an
ambitious 100 million refurbishment, it introduced a
new generation of butlers. This elite task force will
tackle a range of jobs including completing guests busi-
ness expense forms and helping them dress for dinner.
Theres even a green butler to advise on all things eco-
friendly in London. Prices for a suite for the night with
butler service start at around 1,100 plus VAT, though
its worth looking out for packages.
In recent years, a wide range of more mainstream
hotels have added complimentary butler service for
higher room categories. And its not only business trav-
ellers who are the target; many beach resorts have
introduced butlers to help guests mark a special occa-
sion, or simply get maximum
relaxation from their holiday.
The Savoy is managed by Fairmont
At your
Being waited on hand and foot isnt purely the preserve of the landed
gentry. Many hotels and even cruise ships now offer butler service or
concierge floors, while you can also indulge yourself with a personal
shopper or chauffeur/guide, as Debbie Ward reports
a touch of class nbutlers and personal service
butler and chauffeur tips
l Butler service may be included in your room rate but a tip is usually
expected at the end of your stay.
l Preference forms on your hotels website, or sent by email, help your
butler prepare for your visit. If youre not using butler service, you may still be
able to select from pillow menus or choose the scent or flowers youd like in
your room.
l If you travel independently, compare the cost of car hire to booking a tour with
a personal driver; the chauffeur option, which often includes entrance fees, may
prove competitive.
service
The Savoy
n Green butler at The Savoy
TouchofClassTlmaumtn11v1pp42-44_T&L 14/10/2011 15:10 Page 42
Hotels & Resorts, which has butler service at several
properties. The Fairmont Royal Pavilion, Barbados even
has beach butlers wholl deliver drinks and nibbles and
fetch items from your room. St Regis is another chain
with butlers. Theyll wake you with morning tea and
newspapers and spring to other requests made by email.
Caribbean all-inclusive chain Sandals now has butler
service as standard with its top-tier suites. The staff can
be summoned from a dedicated mobile phone to unpack
your luggage, serve you dinner in your suite, shine your
shoes and press your clothes. Theyll also organise your
stay, making all your spa, tour and dinner reservations
and reconfirming your flights before departure. A one-
bedroom honeymoon suite with butler service at Sandals
Emerald Bay in the Bahamas currently costs from
2,999 per person for a weeks all-inclusive in high
season, including flights.
far east
On a smaller scale, Serene Pavilions, a boutique beach
hotel at Wadduwa, Sri Lanka, opened two years ago with
an all-butler concept. Serene has just 12 large villas which
cost from around 295 per night including breakfast.
Theyre full of mod cons, including remote-controlled
blinds, but if the effort of pressing a button wears you out,
your 24-hour butler can step in to ease your stay.
Butlers help guests to unpack their baggage, organ-
ise their meals, provide all the services requested by
them and basically follow them without interrupting
their privacy, explains Serene Pavilions chief executive
Anura Lokuhetty. Theyll even organise meetings with
the chef to decide on the menu and locations for their
meals, as we provide several options.
Elsewhere in Asia, the Nam Hai hotel in Vietnam
beach resort Hoi An recently called in the Guild of
Professional English Butlers to train its staff for three
months. The guild, which also trains Sandals butlers,
notes Caribbean and Far East hotels are particularly keen
to add this personal service. Among many others, it has
also trained butlers at Londons Lanesborough and North
Island, in the Seychelles honeymoon destination of
Prince William and Kate Middleton.
The guild has seen a boom in hotels seeking its serv-
ices. Ive been training butlers in hotels for 15 years and
chauffeurs
Being chauffeured on your holiday may seem an A-list extravagance but several
tour operators, including Kirker Holidays, Kuoni and Regent Holidays, offer tailor-
made touring itineraries with private driver/guides. It may even be a practical
choice for independent travel in destinations where road or vehicle safety is an
issue.
In the UK and Ireland, Dream Escapes can arrange private journeys by fun and
fabulous transport including sports cars, helicopters and seaplanes.
personal shoppers
In cities famous for retail therapy, many top-end hotels offer paid or complimentary
personal shoppers. In Bangkok, for instance, Banyan Tree has a free shopping
companion wholl hit the malls and markets for three hours with you, while until
December 31, Hansar Bangkok is offering a free shopping ambassador in
conjunction with department store Siam Paragon.
In Marrakech, where haggling is key, paying a personal shopper could even save
you money; tour operator Fleewinter can set you up with one.
Major department stores including New Yorks Macys and Bloomingdales also
offer personal shopper services.
personal service with local experts
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n The Fairmont Royal Pavilion,
Barbados, provides beach butlers
n Relaxing in the
spa on MSC Fantasia
Its very
much
tailoring the
service to suit
the guest
its increased year on year so now almost every type of
hotel has some form of butler service, says Guild presi-
dent Robert Watson. Its almost a guest expectation
these days; its not restricted to the luxury five-star
market.
The most important thing is to treat the guests as
individuals and thats very much the essence of my train-
ing. They may want you to be smiling, bubbly or yes,
no, there you are. Its very much tailoring the service
to suit the guest.
Cruise lines, too, are committed to butler service,
most now offering it with higher-grade suites. MSC
Cruises butlers, for instance, can be paged round-the-
clock to take care of laundry and shoe shining, make
priority bookings for restaurants, tender access and
excursions. Theyll even arrange for onboard boutiques
to open exclusively for you.
concierge floors and services
If you dont want to splash out on the full butler experi-
ence, concierge floors (also called club or executive
floors) in both hotels and cruise ships can be a good
compromise.
Though perks vary, these upgraded levels usually
have a lounge for breakfast, drinks and snacks, better
room facilities, and dedicated check-in and concierge
desks. Many major hotel chains including Fairmont,
Ritz-Carlton and Starwood offer such floors and, more
surprisingly, some Disney hotels do as well.
The hotel concierge, who helps with reservations and
local advice, is a familiar concept but nowadays not all
such services are desk-bound.
Thinking of popping the question on holiday? At Cap
Maison, St Lucia a proposal concierge will help you do
it in style, perhaps with the ring sent down a zipwire to
an offshore dining deck. And if you dont fancy lugging
your skis to the airport, how about sending them ahead
to your chalet with ski concierge service Piste of Mind?
Upmarket tour operators, among them Kirker Holi-
days, Audley Travel and Abercrombie & Kent, also offer
concierge services, booking ballet tickets, behind-the-
scenes tours, that special restaurant or a family party so
the highlights of your trip are already in place when you
arrive.
personal ser vice facts
Debbie Ward has been a travel journalist for 12 years. She
once hired a private driver when she and her partner
toured Sri Lanka to chauffeur them between cultural
highlights a luxury she could get used to.
butler service
hotels
Fairmont Hotels: www.fairmont.com
St Regis Hotels: www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis
The Savoy: www.fairmont.com/savoy
Lanesborough, London: www.lanesborough.com
The Connaught, London: www.the-connaught.co.uk
Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel: www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/bathspa
Sandals: www.sandals.co.uk
Serene Pavilions, Sri Lanka: www.serenepavilions.com
Nam Hai, Vietnam: www.thenamhai.com
North Island, Seychelles: www.north-
island.com
Half Moon, Jamaica:
www.halfmoon.rockresorts.com
The Chatwal, New York:
www.thechatwalny.com
Bellagio, Las Vegas: www.bellagio.com
For more see:
www.guildofbutlers.com/client.php
cruise lines
MSC Cruises: www.msccruises.co.uk
Silversea Cruises: www.silversea.com
Celebrity Cruises: www.celebritycruises.com
For more see: www.discovercruises.co.uk
tour operators offering personal drivers and/
or concierge service
Dream Escape: www.dreamescape.co.uk
Kirker Holidays: www.kirkerholidays.com
Regent Holidays: www.regent-holidays.co.uk
Audley Travel: www.audleytravel.co.uk
Kuoni: www.kuoni.co.uk
The Private Travel Company: www.theprivatetravelcompany.co.uk
TransIndus: www.Transindus.co.uk
Abercrombie & Kent: www.abercrombiekent.com
Cox & Kings: www.coxandkings.co.uk
hotels with concierge floors
Starwood Hotels:
www.starwoodhotels.com
Ritz-Carlton: www.ritzcarlton.com
Disney hotels:
www.disneyparks.co.uk
other concierge services
Cap Maison, St Lucia:
www.capmaison.com/proposal-concierge.html
Piste of Mind: www.pisteofmind.com
personal shoppers
Banyan Tree: www.banyantree.com
Hansar Bangkok: www.slh.com/hansarbangkok
Fleewinter: www.fleewinter.co.uk/morocco/
Bloomingdales: www.Bloomingdales.com
Macys: www.macys.com
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n Butler
service at
Sandals
*Price correct at time of print and based on the basic cover for an 18 to 65 year old
travelling to Europe, excludes discount and screened conditions.
Medical screening is available online or over the phone, discount will not apply.
Full terms & conditions of cover benemts apply. 5% discount closes 31st January 2012.
Staysure.co.uk Ltd is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority.
Registered company No. 436804
*Price correct at time of print and based on the basic cover for an 18 to 65 year old
travelling to Europe, excludes discount and screened conditions.
Medical screening is available online or over the phone, discount will not apply.
Full terms & conditions of cover benemts apply. 5% discount closes 31st January 2012.
Staysure.co.uk Ltd is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority.
Registered company No. 436804
in your nflightbag
T
he stylish faux-leather
toiletry and travel bags
from Matt & Nat not only
look good, but are good for the
environment too.
Developed by founder and
creative director, Inder Bedi who
was challenged by a mahatma to
become a vegetarian for 30 days,
an act which would have a
profound effect on his life and that
of others all linings of their bags are made of 100%
recycled plastic bottles; on average, 21 water bottles
are recycled to make the lining of each bag.
Earlier this year, cork labelling inside the bags
was introduced, an innovative material that is envi-
ronmentally sustainable.
The autumn/winter collection includes a range of
bags and wallets in matte black and blue, including
the stylish Braun black weekender and Rogue black
toiletry bag.
Matt & Nat is stocked on ASOS and is available
from Urban Outfitters and independent boutiques
across the UK. For full details of all their products,
go to www.mattandnat.com.
lFor your chance to WIN a Braun weekender worth
135 and a Rogue toiletry bag worth 55, go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on Competi-
tions. Terms and conditions apply. Closing date
November 13, 2011.
K
eeping your sunglasses,
iPod, camera or Kindle
clean and smear-free is
never easy and particularly when
surrounded by sunscreen and ice
cream while on holiday.
A new range of silicon-free
lens care products from Dr Optic
is ideal for travel and provide
quick-drying, smear-free cleaning
for all coated lenses and screens.
Dr Optics Optical Lens Wipes,
available in packs of 12 or 24, are
perfect for popping in your
glasses or camera case, while the
travel-sized Lens Cleaner Spray
with microfibre cloth is ideal for
all delicate lens surfaces.
Dr Optic products are available
at all good pharmacies and super-
markets as well as at branches of
John Lewis and Lakeland, with
prices starting from just 1. For
more information, visit
www.droptic.net.
Lightweight
essentials
Packing a
flight bag to
avoid baggage
check-in is a
chore,
particularly
given the
restrictions on liquids, so
finding skincare products to
suit is essential.
The new Madara Travel Kit
contains five travel-sized beauty
essentials including cleansing
milk, deep balance toner and
regenerating night cream and
all products are organic, natural
and eco-friendly.
The Madara range, originally
from Latvia, is available from
Selfridges, Harrods,
Wholefoods and independent
stores nationwide and online
from leading online retailers
including feelunique.com and
lovelula.com.
The Travel Kit is priced at
6.95; for more information go
to www.madara.co.uk.
Lip salvation
Chapped lips
are inevitable in
the autumn and
winter months,
and even if you
are heading for
warmer climes,
you need a
reliable lip balm
in your bag to keep your lips
moist and supple throughout
your flight or holiday.
Blistex has been providing lip
care since 1947 and its new Lip
Brilliance product not only has
all the benefits of its best-selling
lip balms but also has a delicate
pink sheen and real silk extracts
and Hyaluronic Filling Spheres
for a fuller lip appearance,
making this a handbag essential.
Lip Brilliance is available from
Boots, at just 2.49; for more
information on Blistex products,
go to www.blistex.co.uk.
Banish
smears
Bags of
bottle
BagsTLMautum11v1pp47-48_T&L 14/10/2011 13:19 Page 47
in your n suitcase
Hair today...
Finding room in your suitcase
for those essential
items to keep your
beauty regime intact,
even while away, is no
longer a problem
thanks to a new range
of mini beauty gadgets from
natural health and beauty pioneer
Club Cleo.
The Goliat Miniature 500w Travel
Dryer has a ready-fitted Euro plug and at
only four inches by four inches in size, it is a
holiday must.
Other products include the Vida Nano-Depil
Mini Epilator, for men and women, the Yahari
manicure/pedicure kit and the ID Italian multi-
treatment beauty and skin massager. Prices start from
12.50; for more details go to www.club-cleo.com.
Think pink
Want to have a good-looking and useful beauty case
that is also doing good? Elemis has
pledged a donation of 10,000 to
Breast Cancer Care from its
Think Pink Beauty Kit,
containing three of its top
skincare products, including
a 30ml Pro-
Collagen Marine
Cream and 15ml
Pro-Collagen Lifting
Treatment for neck and bust in limited edition pink
containers, in a patent pink cube cosmetics bag. Buy
online for 29.90 at www.timetospa.co.uk.
Splash about safely
If you are taking your little ones on a late sun break,
they will need to be properly equipped for
the beach and sea. The Splash About
range of clothing has something for
everyone. The fabric of the Safe in
Sun UV protection suit saves the
skin from burning, while the Warm
in Water wetsuit jacket and shorts
with soft neoprene not only gives
sun protection but also gives
added warmth so your
children enjoy swimming
more. Prices start at
29.99; for more
information and stockist
details go to
www.splashabout.com.
K
arrimor, founded in Lancashire in
1946, have been making bags and
equipment for over 60 years, pro-
ducing durable backpacks selected by
some of the worlds most accomplished
mountaineers.
Diversifying into footwear and travel
luggage, the Global range was developed
and the Global Equator 70 wheeled bag,
which can also be worn on your shoul-
ders, is a very useful, durable, suitcase.
Weighing 3.2kg, this versatile bag has
a rugged wheel system with two internal
mesh pockets as well as an internal secu-
rity pocket. With lockable zips, side
compression straps and a rigid base, this
bag will suit even the most demanding of
travellers.
The Global Equator 70 costs 100 and
is available from retailers such as Field
and Trek or online from
www.karrimor.com
lFor your chance to WIN a Global
Equator 70 worth 100, go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Competitions. Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date November 13, 2011.
F
unctional and fash-
ionable footwear is a
must for late season
breaks and mens casual
range Fish n Chips,
from footwear brand
Base London, has recent-
ly launched a mid-top
boot that ticks all the
boxes.
The Shrimp boot
features a thick rubber
sole, a cushioned corduroy
cuff and a twin layer
tongue that can be folded
into the hiking inspired
laces.
Available from leading
high street retailers and
online, Shrimp costs
49.99; for stockists and
more information, go to
www.baselondon.com.
Carry more,
or less
Hot foot it in Shrimps
BagsTLMautum11v1pp47-48_T&L 14/10/2011 13:19 Page 48
49TLMautumn-Gtrek 21/9/11 10:01 Page 1
travel ntech
K
eep your hands on the steering wheel at
all times on your next motoring trip
with the new, portable Parrot
MINIKIT+ hands-free kit.
The MINIKIT+ manages two Bluetooth-
enabled mobile phones at the same time and is
voice-controlled. So if you have one phone for
personal use and another for business calls, it
will handle calls to either phone, giving differ-
ent ring tones to each one.
The MINIKIT+ also automatically synchro-
nises its phonebook with the two connected
mobile phones, storing up to 2,000 contacts. If
the caller is in the phonebook, it will state their
name and you simply say accept
or reject to take or refuse the
call. To make a call, just press the
units green button to launch the
voice recognition and say the
name of the contact. It then dials
the number automatically.
A vibration sensor switches
the unit back on and reconnects
to phones when you open the
car door. It lets you vocally
manage emails and SMS hands-free,
using the TextFriendlyTM subscription
service which launches soon. Your mobiles
satnav app instructions can also play through
its integrated loudspeaker.
The MINIKIT+ attaches to the sun visor
via an adjustable elastic strap, for when the
visor is up or down.
Available from November, the MRSP is
64.99.
www.parrot.com
A
new gadget that can
charge all your trav-
el devices is friendly
to the environment, too.
The IDAPT i1 Ecos
three charging tips will
charge most phones
including iPhone, Black-
berry, Samsung and HTC,
most MP3 players, most
tablets and gizmos such as
satnavs, Amazons Kindle,
Xbox controllers and
Nintendos 3DS.
While other chargers use
power as long as they are
plugged in, the multi-volt-
age IDAPT i1 Eco
automatically shuts power
off including standby
power when the connected
device is fully charged.
Costing 20, it can be
used in-car and has a USB
power lead for charging
from PC or Mac.
www.idaptweb.com
L
isten to your favourite music on the
go wirelessly with the new
SoundLink
portable speaker
from Bose. Music
from smartphones
or tablets can be
streamed to give
audio perform-
ance that defies
the speakers size. The size of an aver-
age book, its integrated
cover unfolds into a stand
and switches the system off
when closed. The recharge-
able battery typically lasts
eight hours.
Available from Bose
stores and dealers, it costs
from 259. www.bose.co.uk
Eco power
Music to go
Double
talk
Far sighted
Bring the world closer to you with the latest
lightweight, compact binoculars from Austrian
optical experts Swarovski Optik.
Weighing just 500g (17oz), the new pocket-sized
CL Companion binoculars are the lightest premium
binoculars on the market and handy for tucking
into hand luggage or your suitcase when travelling
or simply for taking on hikes or outings.
The binoculars have a case and comfortable neck
strap and come in 8x or 10x magnification in green,
sand-brown or black.
They feature razor-sharp optics and the legendary
quality of the Tyrol-based company, which has been
producing precision optical instruments since 1949.
Available in camera shops and online, the CL
Companion 8x model has an RRP of 790 and the
10x version is 820.
www.swarovskioptik.com
techtlmautumn11v1pp50-51_T&L 14/10/2011 15:15 Page 50
S
tuck for ideas where to go on holi-
day next year? Finding your ideal
break is now easier thanks to a tie-
up between Teletext Holidays and elec-
tronics giant Samsung.
Owners of Samsung Smart TVs can
download the Teletext Holidays Video
App to help them search for holidays and
also get a flavour of the local surround-
ings via destination videos and guides.
And if you still need help, the app
downloadable from Samsung Apps has
a Teletext Holidays TV section which
recommends new and exciting destina-
tions through video content.
Victoria Sanders, Teletext Holidays
managing director, said: This is a first
for the travel industry and I believe it has
the potential to transform the holiday
search process. The joy for customers is
being able to browse through available
holidays, then see hotel images and desti-
nation video guides all from the comfort
of their sofa.
Samsung Smart TVs are available in
retailers across the UK and have a Smart
Hub that opens up content from
specially-designed apps as well as from
the internet and other access points.
Samsung Apps is the first and biggest
app store available for TVs, with over
five million apps already downloaded
worldwide.
www.samsung.com/uk; www.teletextholidays.co.uk
W
orried you might
drop your precious
camera in the sea or
onto wet snow on holi-
day? Polaroids latest
compact and lightweight
digital camera may be the
perfect answer.
The Polaroid x800E
offers an eight megapixel
sensor, 8x zoom, 2.4-inch
LCD screen, face tracking
and smile and blink detec-
tion. It is also waterproof,
so you can be sure you
will get the perfect
picture, wherever you are
and whatever the condi-
tions.
Polaroids little marvel
has an RRP of 49.99 and
is available from leading
photography shops and
online from
Amazon.co.uk and
Firebox.com.
www.polaroid.co.uk
lYou can WIN a fantastic
Polaroid x800E camera,
worth 49.99. Just go to
and click on
Competitions.
Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date
November 15, 2011.
travel ntech
Boutique hotel group Grace
Hotelss new, free Saving Grace
packing check list and task
reminder app for iPhones helps
take the stress out of holiday
packing. It shows how many
items have been packed and
how many are left to pack, and
lists things to do before travel
from travel insurance to
watering plants.
www.gracehotels.com
Memory-Map turns your iPhone into an outdoor
GPS, allowing you to navigate with Ordnance Survey
and other maps and charts. A
free app offers a sample pack
of detailed maps, licensed for
90 days. The
25 paid app
allows you to
load maps
from your PC
to your iPhone. A mobile-only app costs 12.50.
www.memory-map.co.uk/iphone
A free
personalised
postcard iPhone
app from imail
allows
holidaymakers to
transform travel
snaps taken on
their phones into postcards and mail them from
their handsets direct to someones home in days.
There is space on the reverse for a customised
message. UK-bound postcards cost 98p and
worldwide ones are 1.48, including VAT.
www.imail.com
Alberta is
the focus of
a new iPhone
app from
specialist
tour
operator
Frontier
Canada. The
free app features itinerary suggestions for the
Rockies and beyond and helps users to plan ski or
summer holidays. It also includes travel tips,
motorhomes information, maps and snow reports.
An Android version launches in December.
www.frontier-canada.co.uk
APPS CORNER
Flash, bang, wallop
water picture
Sofa surfing
techtlmautumn11v1pp50-51_T&L 14/10/2011 15:15 Page 51
Relax at the
Russell Hotel
Bognor Regis
Kings Parade, Bognor Regis, West Sussex
PO21 2QP Tel. 01243871300
Email: reservations.russell@visionhotels.co.uk
Life doesn't get much more relaxing than a perfect
break by the sea. Put your feet up and enjoy our warm
atmosphere, friendly service and home cooked cuisine.
Or choose from a range of leisure activities, excursions
and entertainment.
Rates from 39pp including dinner, bed and breakfast.
For more information and details of other offers visit
www.visionhotels.co.uk
SOUTH DOWNS WALKING
SHORT BREAKS
Three nights for the price of two!!!!!
The perfect spot to start your holiday, situated in the heart
of the Downs, available for Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday
arrivals, based on 2 people sharing.
As well as this fabulous offer we will also pack you a lunch
each day and provide explorer maps for you to use.
Rates from 150 per person
Supplements apply for Premier rooms and Suites.
Rates valid from October 2011-April 2012, exclusions apply, subject to availability
THE ANGEL HOTEL
North Street, Midhurst, West Sussex GU29 9DN Tel: 01730 812421
Email: info@theangelmidhurst.co.uk www.theangelmidhurst.co.uk
Findon Manor
Country House Hotel & Restaurant
A friendly welcome awaits you at our beautiful English Country House Hotel, located in the picturesque
Findon Village in West Sussex. Being situated on the edge of the South Downs makes Findon Manor,
the idyllic location for summer or winter breaks to enjoy the charming and relaxing surroundings. Just
off the A24 it is perfectly located for easy access to Brighton, Worthing and Arundel.
Whether you stay in one of our traditional superior rooms with a Jacuzzi, or in one of our
contemporary suites overlooking our stunning surroundings, you will find that every roomhas a
unique and individual feel. The oak beams and log fires combined with modern amenities creates a
contemporary edge to this traditional building. Fine dining is available in our excellent Terrace
Restaurant, and in our traditional Snooty Fox Bar along with real ales and an extensive wine list.
Upcoming Events:
Fabulous Fridays:
Enjoy 1 night Dinner, Bed and Breakfast with a complementary bottle of Champagne.
From130.00...
Christmas 2011 Celebrations: We are nowtaking bookings for:
Christmas Functions
Christmas Day Lunch
Special Christmas Accommodation Package
NewYears Eve 2011 Celebrations:
Special NewYears Eve Accommodation Package
Dinner or Buffet with NewYears Eve Party
Available for ALL Special Occasions: Weddings, Christenings, Anniversaries, Lunches, Dinners
and more
Open to Non Residents
Findon Manor Hotel, High Street, Findon, West Sussex BN14 0TA 01903 872733
Email: hotel@findonmanor.com www.findonmanor.com
More than just a venue...
on your doorstep nsouth downs
A
s a little girl I spent many
a happy hour flying a box
kite at Beachy Head,
going on family walks to
Cuckmere Haven, with its
distinctive oxbow lakes,
and exploring the dramatic roller-
coaster cliffs of the Seven Sisters tired legs
spurred on by the promise of an ice cream at
the end. These days I tend to take the easier
option, helping friends exercise their horses
on the Downs and through woodland in the
surrounding countryside.
However you choose to travel, its a capti-
vating area and Im not just saying that
because Im biased. Celebrated author Bill
Bryson described the landscape as some of
Englands finest and, in April, a large part of it
was embraced by the South Downs National
Park, the countrys 10th and newest national park.
Covering 628 square miles and stretching 87
miles from Eastbourne in the east to Winchester in the
west, it runs through East Sussex, West Sussex and
Hampshire.
While the name conjures up rolling green down-
land ending at sheer, chalky white cliffs, the landscape
and scenery is diverse, taking in gentle clay hills and
vales, undulating farmland and steep woodland as you
travel towards the eastern corner.
n Beachy Head
Britainonview/Rod Edwards
Ups and
Downs
Encompassing the countrys newest national park, the
rolling countryside of the South Downs is as
quintessentially English as you will find. Local lass
Jeannine Williamson gives the lowdown on the high
points of this captivating area
OnYourDoorstepTLMautumn11v1pp53-56_T&L 14/10/2011 15:12 Page 53
In my particular neck of the woods, the picturesque
village of Alfriston is a justifiable magnet for visitors. A
gentle one-mile walk away is Berwick Church, its spire
visible above the trees. No ordinary village church, it is
covered with murals painted by Bloomsbury Group
artists Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell and Quentin Bell,
who lived at nearby Charleston.
sparkling wines
Sussex soil, high in chalk and lime, is very similar to
the Champagne region. So much so, many English
sparkling wines produced here are beating their
famous French counterparts in international
competitions. The English Wine Centre
(www.englishwine.co.uk), on the corner of the
A27 turn-off to Alfriston, is an interesting place to
stop for lunch and browse around the shop, which
stocks wines from throughout the region.
Down the road, in the neighbouring village of
Jevington, is the local culinary institution, the
Hungry Monk (www.hungrymonk.co.uk), self-
proclaimed birthplace of the Banoffi Pie (look out for
the blue plaque on the wall!).
10 key south downs events
l Beachy Head Marathon
(www.beachyheadmarathon.org.uk): October
22. One of the biggest, toughest and most scenic
off-road marathons in the UK, runners set off
from Eastbourne at 9am with the first arriving
back less than three hours later.
l Lewes Bonfire Night
(www.lewesbonfirecouncil.org.uk): November
5. Flaming torches, giant effigies and ear-splitting
bangers are all part of the famous celebrations
some would say infamous in the county town of
East Sussex, where bonfire societies compete for
coveted trophies for the best costumes.
l Sussex Christmas: December 26-January 1:
Experience Christmas past in the fascinating
collection of reconstructed historic buildings at
the Weald & Downland Open Air Museum
(www.wealddown.co.uk) at Singleton, near
Chichester.
l Brighton Festival (www.brightonfestival.org):
Englands largest international arts festival, spread
over three weeks in May, includes theatre, music,
dance, literary debates, outdoor entertainment
and family events in more than 20 venues, plus a
cutting edge fringe festival.
l Glyndebourne (www.glyndebourne.com):
Unique and quintessentially English, the opera
house nestling in the foot of the Downs near
Lewes hosts its world famous festival from May to
August.
l South of England Show (www.seas.org.uk): June
7-9, 2012. This flagship event showcases the very
best of the local countryside, with prize winning
livestock, equestrian events, regional food and
drink, arena displays and much more.
l Goodwood Festival of Speed
(www.goodwood.co.uk): Dubbed the worlds
largest motoring garden party, this weekend event
at the end of June is an exhilarating celebration of
motorsport history.
l Winchester Festival
(www.winchesterfestival.co.uk): With over 30
events in 10 days every July, the festival serves up
a feast of local, national and international talent.
l Arundel Festival (www.arundelfestival.co.uk):
Held in August, the 10-day long celebration of arts,
music and drama retains a community feel
alongside large scale events staged at the castle
and around the town.
l Chichester Festival Theatre (www.cft.org.uk):
Celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2012, the
theatre has an international reputation for its
varied programme, encompassing classic drama,
musicals, comedies and innovative new
productions.
The South
Downs is
rich in
literary and
artistic
culture
n Arundel Castle
n The South Downs
from Goodwood
n Detail from
Amberley Castle
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Amberley Castle
Moving west, seaside towns such as cosmopolitan
Brighton, Littlehampton, nestling in the mouth of the
River Arun, and family-friendly Bognor Regis, home to
one of Billy Butlins first holiday camps which opened in
the 1960s and is now one of the remodelled resorts
(www.butlins.com), make good bases to explore the
South Downs.
Another gateway town Id recommend is the elegant
cathedral city of Chichester in West Sussex, situated at
the halfway point on the national parks southern side.
Take a leisurely one-hour stroll around the Roman walls
before visiting the cathedral, with its 15th-century belfry,
Englands only remaining detached bell tower.
culture
The South Downs is rich in literary and artistic culture;
for instance Charles Kingsley was a regular visitor to
Hampshires Itchen Abbas, the village and river inspir-
ing the setting of his novel, The Water Babies.
Energetic types can head for the hills along sections
of, or indeed the whole of, the South Downs Way, the
only National Trail lying wholly within a national park.
The 100-mile trail, a haven for walkers, cyclists and horse
artistic and literary links
l This year marks the 200th anniversary of the publication of Sense and Sensibility
and Jane Austens House Museum
(www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk) in Chawton, Hampshire, is the
17th century home where she wrote the majority of her books.
l Writers, painters and intellectuals known as the Bloomsbury Group flocked to
Charleston (www.charleston.org.uk), the farmhouse at Firle, East Sussex,
with interiors painted by Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell.
l Batemans (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) is the beautiful 17th century Jacobean
House at Burwash, East Sussex, where Rudyard Kipling wrote childrens classics
such as Puck of Pooks Hill and Rewards and Fairies.
l Monks House (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) in the village of Rodmell, near
Lewes, was the countryside retreat where Virginia Woolf completed works
including To the Lighthouse, The Waves and Mrs Dalloway.
l Artists have been attracted to Ditchling for over a century and the East Sussex
village is credited with the revival of calligraphy and hand weaving at the
beginning of the 20th century.
l Petworth House (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) and Goodwood House
(www.goodwood.co.uk), both in West Sussex, contain exceptional collections
of paintings and sculpture, including works by JMW Turner.
n Glyndebourne
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riders alike, runs through and around villages and towns,
so food and a bed for the night are never too far away.
I particularly like the ancient Hampshire market town
of Petersfield, where the tradition continues with weekly
markets every Wednesday and Saturday and an excellent
farmers market on the first Sunday of each month.
From Petersfield, discover a unique feature of the
local landscape the steep-sided hanging woods, also
called hangers. The town is part of Hangers Way, a 21-
mile countryside path from Alton to Queen Elizabeth
Country Park. The latter is home to Butser Hill, 890ft
above sea level and the South Downs highest point.
Walkers can continue 22 miles along the South Downs
Way to Winchester, ancient capital of England, while
transport users take the low road along the A3 and A272.
Each part of the South Downs has its own beauty.
I know the places that I love; take time out to find
your personal high spot.
Born and bred in Eastbourne, Jeannine Williamson cut
her journalistic teeth on regional newspapers before
spreading her wings and going freelance 12 years ago. She
contributes to a range of national newspapers, magazines
and websites.
south down facts
getting there
Services by Southern Railway
(www.southernrailway.com) go from
London to East and West Sussex and
Hampshire. By car, the M25 leads to the
main eastern access roads, the A27 and
A22, and the M3 for Winchester.
getting around
From 10 a day, the Downlander Ticket
(www.southernrailway.com), is valid for Southern trains and some
bus services. The Breeze up the Downs (www.brighton-hove.gov.uk)
bus network links Brighton with popular places in the park.
accommodation
The National Trails website (www.nationaltrail.co.uk) lists a wide
range of accommodation such as camp sites, self-catering, pubs, hotels,
dog-friendly accommodation and lodging with bike storage.
The Angel Hotel, Midhurst: www.theangelmidhurst.co.uk
Findon Manor Hotel, Findon: www.findonmanor.com
Russell Hotel, Bognor Regis: www.visionhotels.co.uk
The Star, Alfriston: www.thestaralfriston.co.uk
Deans Place Country Hotel, Alfriston:
www.deansplacehotel.co.uk
George Bell House Hotel, Chichester:
www.chichestercathedral.org.uk
Hotel du Vin, Winchester:
www.hotelduvin.com
Amberley Castle, Arundel:
www.amberleycastle.co.uk
more information
South Downs National Park Authority: www.southdowns.gov.uk
Tourism South East: www.visitsoutheastengland.com
n Winchester, ancient
capital of England
n Bloomsbury Group artists
Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell and
Quentin Bell, lived at Charleston.
n Batemans
n Amberley Castle
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George Bell House is a beautifully restored eight bedroom house
situated in the historic precincts of Chichester Cathedral.
George Bell House has 4 large double / twin rooms, 3 standard
double rooms and a single room (adapted for disabled access).
All bedrooms are en-suite.
Breakfast is available in the dining room of the house which looks
out over the private, walled garden.
Astay at George Bell House offers the convenience of a city
centre location within the tranquil setting of the Cathedral Close.
An ideal location from which to explore the historic city of
Chichester with its beautiful Cathedral, galleries and shops.
www.chichestercathedral.org.uk
Email: bookings@chichestercathedral.org.uk
Telephone: 01243 813586
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58TLMautumn 14/10/11 16:38 Page 1
C
apital of Lower Silesia in south-western
Poland, Wroclaw is one of the countrys old-
est and most beautiful cities. It will be in the
spotlight next June as one of the host cities of
the Euro 2012 football championships, with
three group stage matches there.
Founded over 1,000 years ago, Wroclaw has under-
gone many name changes in a chequered
history which included large-scale
destruction in World War II and subse-
quent reconstruction and preservation.
Its Old Market Square and Town Hall
are among many historic gems in the
heart of a city which also
encompasses 12 islands, 112 bridges
and a wealth of glorious architecture.
Wroclaw is Polands greenest city,
with many parks, gardens and even forests. It
is also a vibrant metropolis with a multitude of cultural
attractions from theatres, concert halls, museums and
galleries to international festivals recognised by it
being named European City of Culture in 2016.
Now, thanks to the Polish National Tourist Office and
the city-centre Tumski Hotel, you can win a three-night
weekend break for two to Wroclaw. The winner and part-
ner will fly direct to Wroclaw with transfers to and from
the hotel, situated on the bank of the Odra River close to
a watermill on Slodowa Island. The prize includes two
dinners in the hotels Karczma Mlynska (Mill Inn)
restaurant and one dinner in the Blue Marine restaurant
on floating, three-level restaurant Barka Tumska.
Also included is a half-day sightseeing trip and tick-
ets for the Panorama Raclawicka exhibition
commemorating the Battle of Raclawice.
Opened in 2000, the 103-bed Tumski Hotel offers
guests discreet charm and elegance with a
friendly atmosphere. Crossing Art Nouveau
Bridge, guests can reach Ostrow Tumski, the
oldest and the most picturesque part of Wroclaw.
The prize is valid for stays from December 1, 2011,
to May 31, 2012.
how to enter
For a chance to WIN this fantastic three-night Wroclaw
break for two, simply answer the following question:
Question: In which region of Poland is Wroclaw?
To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Competitions. Closing date is November 20, 2011.
Terms & conditions apply; see website for details.
For more information on the Tumski Hotel, go to
www.hotel-tumski.com.pl and for Poland information,
visit www.poland.travel or the Polish tourism Facebook
page, www.facebook.com/POLANDTRAVELengb.
WIN a long weekend break
for two in historic Polish city Wroclaw worth 1,000
competition nwroclaw break
P
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and floating restaurant
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wroclawCompTLMautumn11v1pp59_T&L 14/10/2011 13:22 Page 59
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A
fter 15 years of hacking around
fairways as an occasional week-
end golfer, I had been invited to
Scotlands luxury Turnberry golf
resort as part of a hosted event
including a round on its hal-
lowed Ailsa links course where Tom
Watson beat Jack Nicklaus in the famous
Duel in the Sun Open Championship in
1977 plus a group clinic by top golf star
Colin Montgomery at his new links
golf academy.
Not only that, but I was on a
charge while playing the Ailsas
sibling, then called the Arran,
with a string of bogies and the
odd par. Not exactly Tigerish,
perhaps, but still good for a 23
handicapper.
I had just hit the drive of my life on the picturesque,
par-4 8th hole, leaving a short chip down onto a green
nestling in a cove and was about to take my shot when a
Range Rover drove onto the fairway and pulled up
behind me. Out stepped Monty and a photographer,
ready to snap him with me and my playing partners. But
he signalled for me to carry on.
All of a sudden, my composure went and my hands
started sweating. I jabbed at the ball, knocking it into the
rough I was trying to chip over. Then fluffed the next
shot, and the next, getting ever more nervous. After five
attempts I picked the ball up, and as I trudged over to
join the others, Monty chuckled when I told him he had
just ruined my best-ever round. Indeed, over the rest of
the round the wheels well and truly came off.
Fast forward 10 or so years and I am back at Turn-
berry, once again with Monty. Only this time I am there
to take part in the annual Colin Montgomerie Summer
Golf School.
Whether you are trying to improve your game or taking golf up as
a complete beginner, there is nothing like taking a dedicated tuition
break with intensive lessons. Perennial hacker Peter Ellegard went
straight to the top in his quest
Montys
mantras
Colin Montgomeries tips
for improving your golf:
l Keep it simple
l Always think positive
thoughts
l Use the same swing
for every club
l Every club should be
your favourite
l Stay loose
l Keep your hands soft
l Putt 18 inches beyond
the cup
pack your clubs ngolf tuition breaks
P
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n tlm editor Peter Ellegard
under the eye of instructor
Sven at Turnberry
The full
Monty
Golftlmautumn11v1pp61-63_T&L 14/10/2011 13:32 Page 61
control
With just 12 of us on the weekend course, and Monty
with us for the first afternoon before handing over to his
instructors, theres a chance to chat with him before a
fascinating 90-minute clinic, during which he explains
how he believes golf should be played. Montys philoso-
phy can be summed up in three words keep it simple.
Which he then demonstrates with a range of shots, all
played with effortless power and control. If only
Over lunch, I had told him about our previous Turn-
berry encounter and how it had left my golf in tatters. He
apologised, but added I could never be a tour pro if I
couldnt handle pressure like that. I got my chance to
prove that when we all teed off on Turnberrys nine-hole
course, with Monty hitting a drive on the first hole with
each group. When my turn came, I took out my trusty
hybrid and focused on the shot, determined not to let my
nerves get the better of me. It worked. The ball flew
straight down the middle, to my delight and the applause
of Monty and the others. I had exorcised one demon.
The academys instructors monitored us while we
played before a farewell reception with Monty back at
the clubhouse and a group dinner in the hotel that
evening.
Next morning we were split into four groups, each
with an instructor. I drew a personable South African
called Sven and we played the Kintyre course with him,
before our first instruction session.
My golf hasnt improved in years and I have always
struggled with distance. I have had lessons at several
golf academies, but they have generally been just an
hour or so with no-one watching me play. Invariably they
have given me so many things to think about it scram-
bled my brain and my golf suffered even more.
exagerrate
Sven had noticed I tend to hit the ball with my weight
too far back, instead of transferring weight to my front
foot. As a result, my shots lacked power, kept low and
often squirted to the right.
golf science
I stayed on at Turnberry after the Monty golf
school weekend to undergo a two-hour
session next morning at the resorts
TaylorMade Performance Lab, one of only
two in the UK.
There, your swing is analysed in detail by a
battery of high-tech gizmos, with the aim of
checking whether your clubs suit your game
and, if not, to find ones that do.
First, you put on a vest, belt, overshoes and
wrist, arm and leg bands studded with
reflective markers. Six high-speed video
cameras are trained on you and as you swing,
your movements are translated into an on-
screen avatar (the technology was developed
by the same company behind the special
effects for the movie, Avatar).
The results showed why my shots often
veer right, or go straight left. I bring my clubs
down from too vertical a plane, technically
an out-to-in swing, and hit the ball with an
open club face.
To cure it would take many months
deconstructing my swing, so the TMPL fitter,
Ian, tried me with different clubs and shafts
to try and counter my faults. He then gave
me a CD with the results and his
recommendations. He suggests I keep my
irons but try different woods with whippier
shafts and greater loft.
He also analysed my putting on the labs
special green, giving me a new-style putter
with a lofted face to try. It instantly
transformed my putting to 100% success. I
liked it so much I bought the club all 120
of it!
lTwo-hour club fitting sessions at
Turnberrys TaylorMade Performance Lab
cost 150. For details, call 01655 331235 or
visit www.luxurycollection/turnberry.
Montys
philosophy
can be
summed up
in three
words keep
it simple
n Splashing out to the 8th green on
the Kintyre course at Turnberry
n Turnberry
academy instructors
n Peter Ellegard
at Turnberrys
TaylorMade
Performance Lab
P
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He told me one thing, to exaggerate the follow
through as if I was walking after the ball like fellow
South African Gary Player used to do. And it worked a
treat. Within minutes I was hitting drives on the range
straighter, higher and longer than I have ever done. Same
with my irons. From my favourite, the lob wedge, to the
five iron I rarely use for fear of duffing it (although
Monty says you shouldnt favour any club).
After another group dinner, followed by the odd dram
or two in the bar, it was back to the academy next morn-
ing for more tuition, this time concentrating on the short
game. Having satisfied chief pro Michael with my
bunker shots and chipping, Sven suggested how I could
improve my putting, by narrowing my stance and putting
the ball closer to me and nearer my front foot. Putting
has always been my strong suit but Sven reckoned the
new technique would improve it even more.
We finished the weekend school with a competition
on the Ailsa course, where Tom Watson came
heartbreakingly close to winning the Open again in
2009. Putting new golf techniques into practice takes
time, but I played much better even if the new putting
style wasnt coming naturally.
I didnt win, that honour deservedly going to a 14-
year-old lad in my four-ball. But I was happy with my
golf and I showed Sven I was following his advice as he
watched on.
It may have only been a weekend, but I and my new-
found friends, both fellow students and academy
instructors, had formed a common bond, and everyone
said how useful they had found it besides it being an
enjoyable experience. Spending some time with Europes
victorious Ryder Cup captain, Monty, was the icing on
the cake and the reason two of the participants have
kept coming back, seven years running.
His laid-back style, echoed by his team of pros, and
his genuine approachability and friendliness helped
make the experience one I will always treasure. Doing it
in such glorious surroundings and at such an iconic and
sumptuous resort as Turnberry made it even more
special. And I even managed to exorcise another demon,
by parring the very hole I blew up on in front of Monty a
decade earlier.
As I said goodbye to Sven I asked for his honest
appraisal of what my handicap could get down to. Quick
as a flash he replied 15-18. I just need to keep practising
his advice and Montys tips.
golf tuition facts
colin montgomerie links golf academy, turnberry
The worlds only links golf academy features
teaching programmes designed by eight-
time European Tour Order of Merit
winner Colin Montgomerie. Facilities
include indoor and outdoor teaching
areas, simulators and swing analysers,
16 covered bays, open-air range and
short-game area. Tuition includes 60-
minute lessons for 80, one-hour
putting lessons for 50 and one-hour
family lessons for 99. The three-day Colin
Montgomerie Summer Golf School takes place
every year. This year it cost from 798, fully-inclusive.
www.luxurycollection.com/turnberry
other uk golf academies
UK resorts and hotel groups with golf academies include 2014 Ryder
Cup host Gleneagles (www.gleneagles.com), De Vere Hotels
(www.devere.co.uk) with facilities including
the Nike Golf Academy at Oulton Hall &
Spa, and hotel chain Marriott
(www.marriottgolf.co.uk), which
has 11 UK golf hotels and offers a
Kids Golf-4-Free programme allowing
children to have a free lesson when
accompanying an adult taking a paid
lesson, with free club use. Among UK
golf schools with tuition packages are
the James Andrews School of Golf at
Sedlescombe Golf Course in East Sussex
(www.golfschool.co.uk) and the David Short Golf School
(www.shortgolfschool.co.uk), with programmes at several courses.
overseas golf academies
Most golf resorts offer tuition. Popular ones include Spains La Manga
Club (www.lamangaclub.com) and La Cala (www.lacala.com)
resort, which has Spains only David Leadbetter Academy, and Penina
(www.lemeridienpenina.com/en/golf) on Portugals Algarve. Tuition
is also offered by all-inclusive resort companies Club Med
(www.clubmed.co.uk) and Sandals (www.sandals.com/golf) among
others.
packages
Tour operators with golf tuition packages include Golfbreaks.com
(www.golfbreaks.com), Solos (www.solosholidays.co.uk/golf),
Premier Iberian (www.premieriberian.com), GolfPlanet Holidays
(www.golfplanetholidays.com) and Your Golf Travel
(www.yourgolftravel.com).
M
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driving range
n Kids Golf-4-Free
P
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Whether you are new to golf or already an experienced club
player, the luxurious Chateau des Vigiers set in beautiful Bergerac countryside, is just the
place for you to enjoy some great golf, fabulous food and outstanding wine. If you're not a
golfer, then perhaps our spa complex, swimming pool and scenery will entice you instead.
For prices and more information about our extensive
range of golf & spa packages, give us a call on 08451 222650
or visit our website: www.chateaudesvigierstravel.co.uk
Chateau des Vigiers
U5444
Chateau des Vigiers Travel is a trading division of
64TLMautumn 14/10/11 16:34 Page 1
golf nnews
GOLF CLIPS
A new range of golf
sweaters from Scottish-based
clothing company Glenmuir
uses scientific water-repellent
technology to allow golfers
to wear them in light rain or
short showers without having
to resort to waterproofs. The
lambswool mens and ladies
sweaters in the
Autumn/Winter 2011
collection feature special
Bionic-Finish nanotechnology
and cost from 70-80.
www.glenmuir.com
The second course at
upmarket Greek golf resort
Costa Navarino is now open
for play. The Bay Course,
designed by Robert Trent
Jones Jr, overlooks the
historic bay of Navarino in
the south-west Peloponnese
and augments the resorts
Bernard Langer-designed
Dunes Course and two five-
star, Starwood-managed
hotels.
www.costanavarino.com
Golfers can book tee times
at discounted rates 24 hours
a day at 49 courses in
Portugals Algarve and Lisbon
areas and 44 Spanish courses
including the Costa del Sol,
Costa Blanca and Canary
Islands via a new app from
Algarve-based Just Tee Times.
A free iPhone or Android
download, it includes course
reviews, videos and maps.
www.justteetimes.com/mobile
W
ith the cost of taking
your clubs on a golf-
ing holiday becoming
ever more daunting thanks to air-
line excess baggage charges, a
solution which makes it easier on
your wallet as well as your back
is fast gaining favour.
ClubstoHire.com was launched
a year ago by Paul McGinley,
Ryder Cup star and victorious GB
& Ireland team captain in the
recent Vivendi Seve Trophy, to
allow golfers to rent clubs in their
holiday destination and avoid
paying the airline fees, which can
amount to 80 return for clubs.
Golf club rental is currently
available at seven airports Faro,
Malaga, Dublin, Edinburgh, Gran
Canaria and newly-added Murcia
and Alicante and since its incep-
tion the company claims to have
saved golfers over 500,000 in
airline charges.
A wide range of equipment is
offered from top brands Wilson,
TaylorMade, Callaway and MD
Golf, with left and right-handed
sets for both ladies and men.
Rental periods can be from just
one day to four weeks, and golfers
who really want to cut down on
their luggage can rent golf shoes.
The service is easy to use;
golfers simply order online ahead
of travel and pick up the hire set at
the destination airport.
The clubs, which cost the same
at each location, range from 35
euros per week for a rental set of
MD Golf Seve clubs up to 55
euros for TaylorMade R11s.
Go to www.clubstohire.com
for more information.
F
ollow in the spike marks of Northern Irelands
Graeme McDowell and splash out on a new
golf getaway to Californias iconic Pebble
Beach resort from sports tour operator ITC Sports.
The four-night package includes return British
Airways flights to San Francisco, accommodation at
The Lodge at Pebble Beach and three rounds of golf
on The Links at Spanish Bay, Spyglass Hill and the
legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links where GMac
won the US Open in 2010.
Prices start from 2,995 per person and include a
golf buggy and unlimited range balls for the three
rounds, and membership of the Spanish Bay Club and
the Beach & Tennis Club with use of their facilities.
Visit www.itcsports.co.uk for more informa-
tion.
WIN a weeks
club rental for
four worth 200
You can WIN a weeks rental of
golf clubs including TaylorMade
R11s for you and three golfing
buddies, worth 220 euros
(around 200), from any of
ClubstoHire.coms locations. The
prize is valid for 12 months,
excluding September and
October, 2012, and three weeks
notice is required. For details, go
to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
and click on Competitions. Terms
and conditions apply. Closing
date November 18, 2011.
Dont pack your clubs
Pebble splash
P
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n Pebble Beach Links
n ClubtoHire.coms Faro shop
n Paul McGinley
n Derwent sweater
GolfnewsTLMautumn11v1pp65_T&L 15/10/2011 01:12 Page 65
WWW.A1SAILING.LTD.UK
Tel: +34 971 547 986
Warm breezes, crystal sea & sunshine
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E
ver wondered what
would happen if you
or a loved one need-
ed emergency help while
travelling overseas?
According to the
Foreign and Common-
wealth Offices British
Behaviour Abroad report,
almost 20,000 Brits
needed consular assistance
last year, with Spain
producing the most inci-
dents but travellers most
likely to need assistance in
the Philippines, Thailand
and Pakistan.
Now emergency
response specialist
Skyguard has launched
the first personal emer-
gency service for British
travellers. The subscrip-
tion Skyguard
International service
allows travellers to
summon help at the press
of a button if they find
themselves in trouble
overseas. Initially, the new
service is live across 34
European countries, the
Russian Federation and
South Africa.
The service can be
activated using a small
GPS alarm device which
can be attached to keys or
a belt or worn on a
lanyard. It also runs as an
app on Blackberry
phones, with the side key
acting as the alarm button.
Alarms containing the
users location and identity
go directly to Skyguards
Incident Management
Centre in the UK, where
trained controllers can talk
to them and co-ordinate a
response by summoning
the national emergency
services of the country in
question as well as contact-
ing relatives or employers.
Skyguard International
costs from 29.95 a
month. It is available as an
18 per month add-on to
Skyguard's standard UK
service, which starts at
11.95 a month based on
a three-year contract.
www.skyguardgroup.com
travel update nnews
On the prowl
Tracking rare snow leopards is among two new
wildlife expeditions in India by PlanetWildlife.com.
The 13-day Snow Leopard Explorer itinerary,
departing on November 3, starts in Leh, the former
mountain capital of the ancient Himalayan kingdom of
Ladakh, near Tibet, continuing on to track the elusive
snow leopard in the Himalayas, as well as the great
Tibetan sheep, Tibetan wolf and Eurasian brown bear.
Departing on December 8, the 15-day Meghalaya
Caving Adventure has a few days observing the rare
birdlife, flora and fauna in Meghalaya, before exploring
the limestone cave system in the Shnong Rim of the
Jaintia Hills district.
The tours are priced at 1,325 and 1,369
respectively, excluding international flights. Details at
www.planetwildlife.com.
One to one with Santa
Single-parent families can now take advantage of
special packages for one adult and one child under 12
to travel to Lapland with Santa holiday specialist
Santas Lapland.
The two and three-night holidays start at 1,499,
including return flights from Gatwick or Stansted,
half-board accommodation, use of thermal outer
clothing and a full days activities, as well as a private
meeting with Santa Claus in his log cabin home.
For more information and December departure
dates, call 01252 618345 or go to
www.santaslapland.com.
Help, if you
need somebody
F
ifty million LEGO
bricks fill Floridas
latest attraction,
LEGOLAND Florida.
Open from October
15 and aimed at chil-
dren aged two to 12,
the 150-acre theme
park, located midway between Orlando
and Tampa, has 10 themed zones, includ-
ing a Miniland USA and LEGO City with
its own driving school, with more than 50
rides, as well as shows, interactive attrac-
tions and botanical gardens.
For information on the new park and
tickets, go to
www.legolandfloridaresort.com
Brick by brick
n Skyguards GPS
alarm device
n Brick fun
in Florida
n Meeting Santa
n Snow leopard
S
k
y
g
u
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d
L
E
G
O
L
A
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D

F
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o
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i
d
a
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a
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t
a
s

L
a
p
l
a
n
d

P
l
a
n
e
t
W
i
l
d
l
i
f
e
.
c
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m
TravelTLMautumn11v1pp67-68_T&L 14/10/2011 17:04 Page 67
P
ressure is growing on the
Government to slash air
passenger duty and revamp
what many claim is an unfair
tax.
Under current plans, APD
originally a green tax but now
regarded as a revenue raiser will
see a double-inflation rise next
spring, having soared by 140%
since 2007.
Calls to repeal APD have
intensified following Chancellor
George Osbornes decision to cut
the tax on long-haul flights from
Northern Ireland, from November
1, from 60 to 12 per passenger
in economy and from 120 to 24
for business and first class
passengers, to match the short-
haul rate.
The move followed a threat by
Continental Airlines to axe
transatlantic flights from Belfast
because of the tax. British
Airways has already said it is
cutting capacity on UK flights to
the Caribbean next summer,
blaming APD.
Travel industry bodies want
the Government to cut the tax for
the whole of the UK and abandon
the planned 2012 increase.
UK passengers already face
some of the highest air taxes in
the world. A typical family travel-
ling from the UK in economy
class pays 240 more than from
most European countries to travel
to the USA and 50 more to fly
within Europe, according to
ANTOR, an association compris-
ing overseas national tourist
boards with UK offices.
Part of ABTAs Fair Tax on
Flying lobby, ANTOR has
prepared a petition calling on the
Chancellor to make the tax fairer.
Chairman Tracey Poggio said:
We believe Air Passenger Duty
in its current form is unfair to
individuals and to business. We
believe it is already impeding
travel to destinations of choice.
We are concerned that higher
APD rates combined with the
global economic downturn will
create serious consequences not
only for the UK economy but also
for those economies heavily
dependent on UK tourism.
travel update nnews
Smart travel
One-third of frequent flyers
now use their smartphones to
book and manage their
holidays.
Using research from travel
technology partner Amadeus,
Airport Parking and Hotels has
put together a comparison
table of airlines and the
services they offer through
smartphones.
Most airlines, including
British Airways, allow checking-
in and downloading of boarding
passes to their mobile phones
and several have apps with
more information available to
passengers.
The table is available in the
Know Before You Go section
of the APH website:
www.aph.com/news.
Rising stars
In the latest Rising Stars report
from Cheapflights.co.uk, listing
the most requested
destinations for the first half of
2011, Bodrum in Turkey came
top with a 971% year-on-year
increase while Erbil in Iraq was
a surprising second,
experiencing 504% growth.
Kona in Hawaii, Hangzhou in
China and Sapporo, Japan,
completed the top five slots.
www.cheapflights.co.uk
N
ext spring will see the launch of flights
from easyJets newest base, London
Southend Airport, as part of a summer
2012 schedule serving more than 300 destinations.
Eight destinations are being served by the airline
from the Stobart Group-owned airport, which is
gaining a new terminal and an extended runway
following the recent opening of a dedicated railway
station connecting it to Stratford and Londons Liver-
pool Street.
Flights will start in April to Amsterdam, Alicante,
Barcelona, Belfast, Faro, Ibiza, Malaga and Majorca,
and easyJet aims to fly 800,000 passengers from
Southend where low-cost pioneer Freddie Laker
began his airline empire in its first year.
More details from www.southendairport.com
and www.easyjet.com.
Hey, Mr Taxman
Ready for take-off
n British Airways may cut Jamaica
flights because of air taxes
n Easyjet will base three
Airbus A319s at Southend
n Bodrum tops for searches
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1. Face to face with polar bears
The encounter: Experience the thrill of seeing the
Arctics most powerful predators on a polar bear
safari in Churchill, Manitoba, Canada, or on a cruise
off Norways Spitsbergen.
Whats involved: View polar bears from the safety of
tundra buggies as they migrate along the Hudson Bay
coastline during October and November ahead of the
winter freeze. Cruise ship company Hurtigrutens
expedition-style Spitsbergen field landings take
passengers close to polar bears and other Arctic
wildlife.
Do it: Tailor Made Travels five-night Polar Bears of
Churchill tour costs from 2,437* including three
nights in Churchill and two days tundra buggy polar
bear viewing. Windows on the Wilds six-night polar
bear tours, from 3,275, include four nights in
Churchill. Hurtigrutens eight-day Explorer Voyage
costs from 2,488.
www.tailor-made.co.uk,
www.windowsonthewild.com, www.hurtigruten.co.uk
2. Tiger, tiger burning bright
The encounter: The chance to view majestic and endan-
gered Bengal tigers on safari in central Indias national parks.
Whats involved: Indias tigers are under threat from
poaching and loss of habitat. Exodus offers a Land of
the Tigers safari holiday that takes in three national
parks where tigers still roam Pench, the inspiration
for Rudyard Kiplings The Jungle Book, Kanha and
Bandhavgarth, where an Exodus project involves
rebuilding a school bordering the national park. Jeep
and optional elephant game drives give a great chance
10 of the best nwildlife encounters
of the furred kind
We love watching them in zoos and on TV wildlife programmes, but there is nothing quite like
confronting some of natures most feared or enchanting creatures in the wild. Heres our pick of
encounters to set the heart racing
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10oftheBestTLMautumn11v1pp70-76_T&L 14/10/2011 13:36 Page 70
to see tigers and other wildlife, with multiple tiger
sightings possible.
Do it: The Exodus Land of the Tigers trip costs from
1,899 for 16 days, with departures from autumn to
spring. The itinerary includes a sleeper train and stays
in Agra, for the Taj Mahal, and Delhi.
www.exodus.co.uk
3. Gorillas in your midst
The encounter: Witness the magnificent, gentle giants
of Uganda and Rwandas mountain rainforests.
Whats involved: Trek to view mountain gorilla fami-
lies in their natural habitat in Rwandas Parc National
des Volcans or Ugandas Bwindi Impenetrable National
Park, home to over 300 gorillas. Trips often visit the
grave of murdered conservationist Dian Fossey, author
of Gorillas in the Mist.
Do it: Wildlife Worldwides 10-day Gorillas, Wildlife
and Chimps trip includes two nights in a lodge in the
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from 3,195 including
flights. Aardvark Safaris offers gorilla tracking in
Rwanda, including three nights at Virunga Lodge, from
2,343, and G Adventures five-day Uganda Gorillas
and Game trip costs from 1,579, both ex-flights.
Brown + Hudsons luxury, 13-day East African Extrava-
ganza, from 225,000 for two, includes helicopter
flights to Bwindi, for a gorilla trek and overnight stay,
and to other African safari destinations plus a bespoke
documentary film of the trip.
www.wildlifeworldwide.com,
www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk,
www.gadventures.com,
www.brownandhudson.com
4. Cage diving with great white
sharks
The encounter: Experience a breathtaking underwa-
ter brush with the fearsome stars of Jaws diving in a
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n Tiger safari
n Great white shark
n Close encounter of the feared kind n Magnificent: mountain gorilla
steel cage in Shark Alley, off South Africas Dyer
Island, near Cape Town.
Whats involved: Dyer Island is one of the worlds
best locations to encounter great whites as it is home to
50,000 seals, their main food. Trips to Shark Alley
include viewing the sharks from onboard the boat and
diving in the cage. Divers should hold a minimum of
PADI Advanced Open Water or equivalent qualification
and have logged 40 dives.
Do it: Regaldive offers a great white shark diving exten-
sion with its six-night East Coast Shark Diving holiday
from 2,144 for both. The four-day Gaansbaai extension
includes an extra three nights accommodation, two
days great white cage diving, a guide and transfers.
www.regaldive.co.uk
5. Kayaking with killer whales
The encounter: Paddling a kayak alongside killer
whales, or orcas, is a never-to-be-forgotten experience.
Johnstone Strait, off mainland British Columbia,
Canada, is the best place on earth to sea kayak with
killer whales in the wild. Most of BCs 220 resident
orcas return there between July and October each year.
Whats involved: Stay in a permanent tented wilder-
ness camp with an experienced paddler guide and
encounter pods of the friendly orcas close up from your
sea kayak. Among other wildlife you may see are
dolphins, sea lions, harbour seals, minke whales, otters,
eagles and black bears.
Do it: Frontier Canada offers five-day Orcas & Wilderness
Camping kayaking trips from Campbell River, Quadra
Island or Port McNeill, costing around 800. They include
paddling on three days in search of the killer whales.
www.frontier-canada.co.uk
6. Walking with lions
The encounter: For sheer adrenalin, track lions on
walking safaris or walk and work alongside them on
volunteering projects.
Whats involved: Walk with lions at Zimbabwes Ante-
lope Park Private Game Reserve, where a lion
rehabilitation project aims to return them to the wild.
Several projects let you help look after lions. Walk-
ing safaris with armed guides, possible in some
countries, give close-up views on foot.
Do it: Acacia Africas seven-day Rediscover
Zimbabwe trip, from 641, incorporates a stay at
Antelope Park. Classic Retreats offers walking safaris
on Remote Africa Safariss Chikoko Walking Trails as
part of a seven-day trip, from $3,655. Norman Carr
Safaris has walking safaris on its eight-night Luwi River
Trail, privately-guided trip to Zambias South Luangwa,
from $3,960. Under BUNACs Wildlife Conservation
South Africa programme, volunteers can look after lions
and cubs at a South African wildlife reserve for 18 or 32
days, from 1,099, while i-to-i offers volunteering with
lion research work in South Africas Limpopo Province,
from 1,199 for two to six weeks.
www.acacia-africa.com, www.classicretreats.com,
www.normancarrsafaris.com, www.i-to-i.com,
www.bunac.org.uk
7. Whale meet again
The encounter: Marvel at the oceans leviathans on
whale-watching trips from the Azores to South Africa,
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BUNAC
Peter Ellegard
n Walking with lions in
Antelope Park, Zimbabwe
n Cub
feeding
time
n Close up with killer whales
n Whale hello there
n A sperm whale off
Kaikoura, New Zealand
Wildlife
Camp
SouthLuangwa, Zambia
Anaffordable
front-rowseat to
thegreatest animal
encounters in
Africa
info@wildlifezambia.com
www.wildlifecamp-zambia.com
Mozambique, California, Hawaii, Newfoundland,
Quebec, Cape Cod, Dominica and New Zealand.
Whats involved: Boat trips take visitors out to where
whales congregate or pass on migration. Some can be
viewed from the shore, such as off Mozambique
(humpbacks) and along South Africas Cape Whale
Coast, where common species are Southern right
(pictured, previous page) and humpback whales.
Hermanus even has its own whale crier. Sperm whales
are a big draw off Dominica, the Azores and New
Zealands Kaikoura, with grey, blue and humpback
whales off US and Canadian coasts.
Do it: Five nights in Monterey, California, with Bon
Voyage costs from 1,095 and includes two half-day
whale-watching trips. To Escape To has seven nights at
Mozambiques Nuarro Lodge from 1,819. Local oper-
ators whale-watching trips include Dive Dominica,
costing about 30 (children 16), and Whale Watch
Kaikoura, at about 75 (30).
www.bon-voyage.co.uk, www.toescapeto.com,
www.whalewatch.co.nz, www.cape-whaleroute.co.za,
www.whalewatchazores.com,
www.divedominica.com
8. Horse-riding with the Big Five
The encounter: Ride tall in the saddle on horse-back
safaris through Kenyas Masai Mara or Amboseli
National Park, galloping alongside zebra, giraffe and
wildebeest herds and viewing elephants, buffalo and
wallowing hippos close up.
Whats involved: Seven or eight-night horse-riding
safaris take in rides of up to 50km per day between
camps through mostly open plains where big game is
abundant. Riders must have good riding ability and be
fit enough to ride up to six hours a day.
Do it: Offbeat Safaris offers 10-night safaris, including
eight nights riding in the Masai Mara staying in four
different camps, from 4,600. Alternatively, biking
safaris are offered by operators including Classic
Retreats and Adventure International.
www.offbeatsafaris.com
9. Compare the meerkats
The encounter: Get up close and personal with
meerkats on safari in the Kalahari Desert, Botswana.
The inquisitive creatures may even clamber onto your
head to watch out for predators.
Whats involved: The meerkat experience forms part
of a stay at Jacks Camp, a palatial tented camp in
Makgadikgadi Pans in the heart of the Kalahari. An
ongoing habituation programme means the fascinating
creatures have lost their fear of people, happily using
them as lookout posts. Other activities at Jacks include
game walks with a bushman guide, quad bikes and
tracking elusive brown hyena.
Do it: Owned and run by Botswana-based Uncharted
Africa Safari Co, Jacks Camp is featured by Aardvark
Safaris, with three nights there costing from 2,920.
www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk
10. Jumbo encounters
The encounter: Get close to working elephants and see
wild ones in India, Sri Lanka and Thailand, or do volun-
teer work in South Africa.
Whats involved: Family holidays take in a training
camp in India and riding them and visiting an orphanage
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n Comparing the
meerkats in Botswana
n Meerkat lookout
n On horse-back with a tusker
in Sri Lanka. Adults can go elephant trekking, bathe
them and be a mahout in Thailand or help with research
and elephant care at a sanctuary on South Africas
Garden Route.
Do it: The Adventure Companys 16-day Elephant
Paradise holiday to Sri Lanka, from 1,699 for adults
and 1,599 for children, includes elephant riding,
seeing wild elephants on safari and visiting an orphan-
age. Families Worldwides Backwaters of Kerala tour,
from 1,699/1,484, visits an elephant training camp.
Funway Holidays Elephant Hills Jungle Safari, in
Khao Sok National Park, costs 342 for three days
including elephant trekking and bathing with a two-
day elephant driving course costing 289, while i-to-is
Elephant encounter volunteering in South Africa costs
from 799 for two weeks.
www.adventurecompany.co.uk,
www.familiesworldwide.co.uk, www.i-to-i.com,
www.funwayholidays.co.uk
Do you know of
better wildlife
encounters?
Tell us on tlms
Facebook page:
http://bit.ly/tlm_facebook
and see our
suggestions for 10 of
the rest.
10 of the best UK wildlife encounters
1. Seals: Ramsey Island, Pembrokeshire
Home to one of Britains largest Atlantic grey seal
breeding colonies, in spring and autumn up to 1,000
seals haul up Ramseys beaches to pup. Return boat
trips go from St Justinians, where a 14-bed
bungalow costs 1,475 per week to rent from
Quality Cottages (www.qualitycottages.co.uk).
www.ramseyisland.co.uk
3. Ospreys: Highlands of Scotland
Scotland is the stronghold of the osprey, a
summer visitor which has seen increasing
numbers since returning in 1954. Stay at the Bird
Watching & Wildlife Clubs Grant Arms Hotel in
Grantown-on-Spey and view them at the Loch
Garten Osprey Centre, from late March to
August/September. www.bwwc.co.uk
5. Otters: Isle of Eriska, Argyll
Otters are notoriously elusive, but stay in the 23-
room hotel on the tiny, private Isle of Eriska, near
Oban, and you stand a good chance of seeing
them as they are resident year-round. Other
wildlife include white-tailed sea eagles, deer and
seals. Marked trails have information boards.
www.prideofbritainhotels.com
7. Puffins: Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Some 6,000 pairs of the charming Pembrokeshire
Parrots breed on the island from mid-March to
July each year. Skomer is also home to the worlds
largest colony of Manx shearwaters. Arrive early
to catch the boat (April to October) there is a
daily quota for landing visitors.
www.welshwildlife.org/skomer-skokholm/skomer
9. Red kites: Powys
The red kite is one of natures success stories,
having recovered from near extinction in the UK.
Kites are fed daily throughout the year at Gigrin
Farm, near Rhayader, attracting up to 600 birds.
View from five hides. Rent its Red Kite Cottage
from 300 per week. www.gigrin.co.uk
2. Deer rutting: Exmoor, Devon
See the spectacle of Exmoors magnificent wild
stags during the annual rutting season. HF Holidays
new two-night deer rutting weekends, from mid-
October, include full-board accommodation at
Holnicote Country House, travel to rutting sites,
nature reserve entrance and National Trust guides,
for 225pp. www.hfholidays.co.uk
4. Red squirrels: Isle of Wight/Durham
See resident red squirrels on a Wildlife Safari walk
around the Isle of Wights Alverstone Mead nature
reserve, near Sandown one of the walks
highlighted in ferry company Wightlinks free Wight
Safaris guide (www.wightlink.co.uk/wightsafaris).
Also view them at Durhams Killhope lead mining
museum. www.killhope.org.uk
6. Wildlife safari: Port Lympne, Kent
Go on safari with Port Lympne Wild Animal
Parks African Experience and view giraffe, black
rhino, wildebeest, zebra, ostrich, antelope and
other wildlife roaming free. Feel even more like
you are in Africa by staying overnight in the new
Livingstone Safari Lodge.
www.aspinallfoundation.org/portlympne
8. Bitterns: Nottinghamshire
Just 87 males of this rare overwintering visitor
were recorded in the UK last spring, seven of
them at Attenburgh Nature Reserve. The shy,
secretive heron species, known for its deep
booming call, can be seen in the reserves
reedbeds from a hide from November to January.
www.attenboroughnaturecentre.co.uk
10. Dolphins: Moray Firth
Chanonry Point offers one of the best viewing
opportunities in the UK for bottlenose dolphins.
The playful mammals come right up close to the
shore on incoming tides and can be seen year-
round. Boat trips also operate from Inverness.
Base yourself at Grantowns Grant Arms Hotel.
www.bwwc.co.uk
lWIN a four-night wildlife stay at the Grant Arms Hotel in the Scottish Highlands, worth 850. See page 27.
n Splashing about
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*Packages vary; for details
of what is included, check
individual companies.
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For more information contact 020 8742 1556
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or visit www.windowsonthewild.com
checking out naccommodation
T
hey are the silent stars of the silver screen
hotels that form the setting for movies or
have starring roles in them.
From rural England to glamorous Beverly Hills,
you can emulate Hollywoods finest and stay in the
same hotels often in the very rooms where the
action took place.
Several UK hotels have strong film links. Hugh
Grant and Andie MacDowell got it on in Four
Weddings and a Funeral in the historic coaching inn
The Crown, Amersham, Buckinghamshire
(www.thecrownamersham.com), where you can
stay in the same four-poster-bed suite.
Luxury Buckinghamshire resort Stoke Park
(www.stokepark.com) starred in Layer Cake
(Daniel Craig and Sienna Miller) and Goldfinger,
where James Bond (Sean Connery) defeats his
nemesis on the golf course after Oddjob decapitates
a statue with his bowler hat.
In 2001 movie Bridget Joness Diary, Hugh
Grants character takes Bridget
(Renee Zellweger) there for a
romantic weekend, rowing on the
lake followed by a night in its Penn-
sylvania Suite. A one-night Bridget
Jones Mini Break, including a bottle
of chilled Chardonnay, breakfast and
dinner, massage and manicure/pedi-
cure, use of the health and leisure
facilities and a copy of the Bridget
Joness Diary DVD, costs 245 per
person, or 375 in the Pennsylvania
Suite.
London landmark hotel The Ritz
(www.theritzlondon.com) was where Julia
Roberts stays in 1999 hit Notting Hill as a famous
actress visiting London, and where Hugh Grants
travel bookstore owner character goes to meet her
after bumping into her in Notting Hill.
The Ritz Paris (www.ritzparis.com) featured in
the opening sequence of 2006 blockbuster The Da
Vinci Code. Many people still request room 512,
where it was set.
In 007 movie remake Casino Royale, Daniel
Craigs James Bond stays in a beachside villa at the
luxury One&Only Ocean Club, in the Bahamas
(www.oneandonlyresorts.com). He also wins his
iconic Aston Martin in a game of poker there.
The Beverly Wilshire, in Californias Beverly
Hills (www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire),
takes centre stage in Pretty Woman, when Richard
Geres businessman character picks up a prostitute
(Julia Roberts), takes her back to his penthouse suite
and hires her as a date to help clinch a business deal.
Other movie hotels include: Bellagio, Las Vegas
(www.bellagio.com), the setting for movies Oceans
11 and 13; Park Hyatt, Tokyo
(www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com), in
Lost in Translation; New Yorks now-
renovated Plaza Hotel
(www.fairmont.com/thePlaza), in
Home Alone 2, Crocodile Dundee,
and Arthur; the iconic, luxury
Waldorf Astoria, New York
(www.waldorfnewyork.com), in
Serendipity, Scent of a Woman and
Coming to America; and San Diegos
120-year-old Hotel Del Coronado
(www.hoteldel.com), in the Mari-
lyn Monroe classic Some Like it Hot.
Movie stars
focus: film star hotels
hotel news
Lavenhams historic, 15th
century Swan Hotel has
completed a two-year
renovation programme of its
public areas and 45 bedrooms
and suites which has also seen
the opening of the new,
informal Brasserie, overlooking
the courtyard garden, and a
new reception area. Rates start
at 200 per room B&B.
www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk
The October opening of the
85-room Z Hotels Soho, off
Londons Cambridge Circus,
marks the launch of a new
hotel group in London offering
high-quality, affordable
accommodation in prime
locations. All rooms feature 40-
inch HD LED TVs with free Sky
Sports and Sky Movies, iPod
docking stations and free Wi-Fi.
Room rates start from 85.
www.thezhotels.com
The new
Radisson
Edwardian
Guildford
hotel fuses
an old
coaching inn
faade with
an ultra-
modern
glass atrium
and interior
designs part-inspired by
Guildfords famous son, Lewis
Carroll. The 183-room hotels
atrium features a seven-metre
bookcase and three-metre
chandelier. It also has a spa,
two restaurants and a bar.
www.radissonedwardian.com
/guildford
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n The Ritz, London
n The Crown, Amersham
n Beverly Wilshire
n Park Hyatt, Tokyo
n Bellagio, Las Vegas
n Stoke Park
n One&Only Ocean Club
Checking outtlmautumn11v1pp78-79_T&L 14/10/2011 13:59 Page 78
T
wo things about pretty
Cornish harbour town
Padstow strike you on
arrival. One is its seafood this
is Britains seafood capital and
home to celebrity chef Rick
Stein, who has popularised sea
fare and seems to own half the
towns establishments. The other
is the imposing, Victorian edifice
overlooking the harbour.
The Metropole Hotel, known
simply as The Met, has stood
guard from its commanding hill-
side position for over 100 years,
when railways first opened up
Cornwall to long-distance holi-
daymakers.
The grand old lady has been
undergoing a grand makeover of
late and offers a very comfortable
four-star base from which to
explore Padstows charming
streets, literally steps away, or the
areas beautiful beaches.
The daily free afternoon tea,
served in the Caf Bar with fabu-
lous harbour and Camel Estuary
vistas, was very welcome after a
tiring drive. Also welcome was
the hotel car park a rarity in the
town. I parked right outside my
ground floor Premier room,
French doors opening onto the
adjacent lawn making loading and
unloading bags easy.
The cosy room, on the hotels
flank, had views of the estuary as
well as Rick Steins famous
Seafood Restaurant next door.
The Mets own AA-rosette
Harbour Restaurant will satisfy
any palate, serving up Cornish
produce including locally-caught
fish and lobster with wines
including those of award-winning
local winery Camel Valley. The
friendly service was exemplary.
The Met looks across the river
to Rock, former playground of
princes Harry and William.
Padstows veteran queen may
look stern as she gazes out, but
inside beats a warm heart.
Peter Ellegard
factbox
The Metropole
Hotel
Padstow,
Cornwall PL28 8DB
Tel: 0800 005 3903
www.the-metropole.co.uk
Rooms from 152 B&B
best for
l Stunning views
l Friendly service
l Afternoon tea
could do better
l Tired corridor decor
checking out nhotel reviews
Warmheart
The Metropole Hotel, Padstow, Cornwall
factbox
Fishmore Hall
Ludlow, Shropshire
SY8 3DP
Tel: 01584 875148
www.fishmorehall.co.uk
Rooms from 150 B&B
best for
l Innovative dining
l Romantic breaks
l Individual,
luxurious rooms
could do better
l Bedroom temperature control
Fine dining
Fishmore Hall, Ludlow, Shropshire
n Premier room
n Poster bed
n The
Metropole
Hotel, Padstow
n Comfortable,
large bed
Situated only 10 minutes walk from the
middle of the historic market town of Ludlow,
renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurants
and medieval architecture, Fishmore Hall is an
impressive Georgian building offering boutique
hotel-style accommodation and fine, award-
winning dining.
Our room was one of 15, each individually-
designed and styled to offer a high standard of
comfort and luxury. Light and spacious, most
have views through huge sash windows across
Ludlow and Shropshires rolling countryside.
The impressive wet room featured a huge
shower, large enough for two, and Molton
Brown toiletries. Added luxuries in the room
included fluffy robes and a welcome pack
featuring local produce. A cafetiere of Cafe du
Monde coffee was complemented by delicious
homemade biscuits. Free Wi-Fi and a flat
screen Freeview TV were a welcome addition.
The large bed was extremely comfortable,
making for an excellent nights sleep, further
helped by offering a choice of pillows from
the pillow menu, to meet individual
requirements.
The award-winning Forelles restaurant
offers fine dining, with a truly imaginative
menu, carefully developed by head chef David
Jaram. The restaurant offers some of the finest
dining in Ludlow the traditional Shropshire
breakfast was delicious and perfectly prepared
to our requirements. Dinner offered an a la
carte menu or a superb Shropshire Tasting
Menu with the very best local seasonal dishes.
From a selection of imaginative canaps with
pre-dinner drinks, each dish was prepared and
presented to perfection, and complemented by
amuse bouche. The dedicated staff were
knowledgeable and helpful but unobtrusive, all
contributing to an enjoyable dining experience.
Peter Lewsey

n Fishmore Hall
Checking outtlmautumn11v1pp78-79_T&L 14/10/2011 13:59 Page 79
www.rivierabournemouth.co.uk
Autumn breaks in
Bournemouth!
Located in the exclusive area of Alum Chine
minutes walk to Blue Flag beaches.
We offer stylish modern accommodation with superb food
from local produce, service and views over Poole Bay.
Its the perfect base to relax and sunbathe or explore and
discover Dorset and the surrounding areas.
75 bedrooms and 10 holidays apartments
Indoor & Outdoor leisure club
Games room & pool table
Live entertainment
Alum Chine, Bournemouth BH4 8JF
T: 01202 763653
E: info@rivierabournemouth.co.uk
I SEASONAL BREAKS
SEASONAL BREAKS I
Overlooking Porth beach and the stunning North Cornish coastline, Glendorgal
Hotel and Self Catering is set in a secluded coastal position within 17 acres of
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Choice of hotel rooms or 2 & 3 bedroom self catering houses 2 night stays
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arena Swimming Pool Hot tub Sauna Steam Room Free Parking
Lusty Glaze Road, Porth, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3AD
Call now on 01637 874937
E-mail: info@glendorgal.co.uk
www.glendorgalhotel.co.uk
www.glendorgalselfcatering.co.uk
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Contact us for special prices for Xmas, twixmas and New Year
The Hotel Collingwood is one of Bournemouth's finest hotels, ideally situated we are only
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has 53 modern en suite
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own distinctive style and are all
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individual heating controls,
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facilities. Lift access to all
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We provide an exceptional and exciting array of entertainment most evenings throughout
the year, Each live cabaret is unique, whether you want to dance the night away or just
listen, all tastes of music are catered for.
Hotel Collingwood
11 Priory Road, Bournemouth BH2 5DF
Tel: 01202 557575 Email: info@hotel-collingwood.co.uk
www.hotel-collingwood.co.uk
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80TLMautumn 14/10/11 16:45 Page 3
Londons stretch of the Thames, which
forms part of the longest river entirely in
England, is a tidal river, rising and falling
as much as 26 feet between high and low
tides. Although once the source of the
Great Stink when it was an open
sewer, it is now one of the cleanest rivers
in Europe.
The Roman city, Londinium, grew up
around the point of the river that was
easiest to cross and where the Romans
erected the first London Bridge.
Nowadays, the Thames is the focal
point of the heart of London used by
commuters to get from one part of the
city to another and offering everything
from sightseeing trips to water sports, not
to mention the opportunity to take advan-
tage of waterside restaurants and bars
year round.
The Thames has 45 locks, is home to
over 25 species of fish and is the only
river in Europe to have a national trail
which follows its entire length.
For more information, go to:
www.riverthames.co.uk
the river lee
The 28-mile-long River Lee runs through
London from its source near Luton all the
way to the Thames at Stratford and its
backwaters, the Bow Backs, are Londons
least-known waterways.
That is set to change, as they form the
heart of Londons Olympic area, with
major development in the coming months
for the London 2012 Olympic and Para-
lympic Games. This will place an
emphasis on sustainability, leaving a
legacy of facilities and good transport
links for the waterways that flow through
the Lower Lee Valley.
The Lee Valley area is vast and
includes a number of country parks,
nature reserves and heritage sites. The
local council is even planning an entirely
new 1.5-mile-long canal.
londons canals
As the Thames meanders through
London to the sea, it is joined by several
man-made canals which are used by
Waterways online
The following websites have a wealth of information
on Londons waterways, with everything from boat
hire to finding a riverside restaurant:
www.waterscape.com
www.britishwaterways.co.uk/olympics
www.london.gov.uk/waterways
www.thames21.org.uk
www.visitthames.co.uk
www.riverthames.co.uk
Messing about on
london life nlondons rivers and waterways
T
he River Thames is the lifeblood of our capi-
tal as it snakes and winds its way through
many of the citys top tourist attractions. But
London has many more canals and waterways
to explore as well. Once the backbone of the
citys industrial activity, transporting cargoes
from the docks across the capital and beyond, Londons
waterways now provide a peaceful haven to enjoy boat
trips, wildlife and water sports. Follow our guide for
the best way to see London through watery eyes:
the river
n Competing in the Great River
Race at Richmond upon Thames
n The Thames
from Canary
Wharf
n On the river shore
visitlondonimages/britainonview/Pawel Libera
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LondonTLMautumn11v1pp82-84_T&L 14/10/2011 14:01 Page 82
london life nlondons rivers and waterways
boaters, cyclists and wildlife enthusiasts.
Regents Canal, which starts at Little
Venice and ends at Limehouse Basin in
Docklands, is part of Londons Grand
Union Canal and is among the most well-
known canals; its route covers some of
Londons most beautiful green areas, such
as Regents Park and London Zoo.
The Paddington Arm of the Grand
Union Canal is effectively an extension of
Regents Canal, running through West
London suburbs to join the main Grand
Union Canal near Slough.
The Grand Union Canal, created by
famous industrial engineer Isambard
Kingdom Brunel as the Grand Junction
Canal, winds its way along a 137-mile
course all the way to Birmingham.
For more information on Londons
canal network go to:
www.waterscape.com/in-your-area/london or
www.riverthames.co.uk/thamescanals.htm
Londons river and canals are linked by a
series of locks, many of which date back
to around 1811, when the Corporation of
the City of London realised the need to
improve navigation on the citys water-
ways.
The new Three Mills Lock controls
the river above Three Mills, on the River
Lee, creating a green gateway for barges
entering the Olympic Park and helping to
remove thousands of lorry journeys from
local roads.
Many of Londons locks are manual
and fun to try your hand at when hiring a
boat for the day.
sightseeing and more
Londons major sights take on a different
slant when seen from the water and there
are many ways to enjoy the rivers includ-
ing jet boats, paddle steamers and river
cruises. Commuter travel using riverboat
and riverbus services is also becoming
increasingly popular.
The EDF Energy London Eye River
Cruise is a 40-minute circular sightseeing
cruise with live commentary, provided by
specialist guides, with regular departures
from the London Eye Millennium Pier.
Take in amazing views of Big Ben and
the Houses of Parliament, St Pauls
Cathedral, Tower Bridge and the Tower of
London from the cruises.
did you know?
l The Thames passes through nine counties from
mouth to source: Essex, Kent, Middlesex, Surrey,
Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Wiltshire
and Gloucestershire.
l During Alfred the Greats reign, the River Lee
formed the border between Saxon England and
Viking-controlled Danelaw.
l It takes 90 seconds to raise the 1000-ton bascules
(arms) of Tower Bridge to the upright position.
l Comedian David Walliams swam 140 miles of the
Thames in just eight days in September equal to
swimming the English Channel seven times!
suits you
For families: Take a
fun land and river
sightseeing tour on
London Duck
Tours yellow,
amphibious vehicles,
originally known as
DUKWs and used during
the D-Day landings.
For couples: Hire a boat for the day and negotiate
Londons locks, stopping off for lunch at a riverside
cafe or pub.
For value: Cycle the towpaths of the canals and
waterways, taking in the fresh air and the sights of
London by the water.
For luxury: Stay in five-
star luxury at the
Plaza on the River
overlooking the
Thames, waking to
spectacular views
across to iconic
sights including Big
Ben and Parliament.
its a date
1717: First performance of Handels Water Music, by
50 musicians on a barge on the Thames for
King George 1.
1814: Londons biggest frost fair; carnivals on ice held
when the Thames froze over, with dancing,
winter games, football and drinking.
1829: The first-ever boat race at Henley-on-Thames,
moving to Westminster and eventually Putney,
becoming an annual event from 1856.
1894: Completion of Tower Bridge, needed for the
growing populous in Londons East End.
1962: London Bridge sold; transported to Lake
Havasu, Arizona, in 1967. Opened in 1971.
lYou can WIN one of five pairs of EDF
Energy London Eye River Cruise tickets,
worth 24 per pair. Just answer the
simple question below and go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click
on Competitions. Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date November 13, 2011.
Question: Where is the starting point
for the London Eye River Cruise?
n Little Venice
n Regents Canal
n Yellow Duck
n Tower Bridge
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locks
london nnews
Jumping Jack flash
Stingy Jack, the evil mythical Irish
folklore character who gave his
name to the famous Jack-o-
Lantern Halloween symbol, will
be stalking the corridors of the
London Dungeon
(www.thedungeons.com) this
Halloween (October 15-31) with
his turnip lantern; watch out for
him hiding and jumping out from
dark corners!
Sounds fishy
The Spooky Rainforest at the SEA
LIFE London Aquarium
(www.sealife.co.uk/london) will
be taken over by the Fish Witch
this Halloween, from October 22-
31, with a special Hallo-marine
ghoulish-themed trail to follow,
highlighting some aptly-named sea
creatures such as Blood Shrimps,
Bat Fish and Spider Crabs, and
scary sea stories.
Haunted houses
The Historic Royal Palaces
(www.hrp.org.uk) have some
ghoulish tours on offer; from
October 28-31, take an Eerie
Evening Tour of the Enchanted
Palace at Kensington Palace or visit a
variety of haunted sites at Hampton
Court Palace on the popular Ghost
Tours from October 31.
Winter wonderland
As chilly days edge ever closer,
enjoy winter in the capital with a
visit to Winter Wonderland
(www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com)
in Hyde Park from November
18 until January 2, 2012.
Attractions this year include
Zippos Christmas Circus, roller
coaster rides, the Angels
Christmas Market, Londons
largest open-air ice rink and a
chance to visit Father Christmas
in Santa Land.
Teatime at Tiffanys
Tiffanys fifth year of presenting
Skate at Somerset House
(www.somersethouse.org.uk/ice-rink)
features afternoon skate
sessions with a free Tiffany
teatime treat with hot chocolate
or tea, and a glass of champagne
for adults. Other events during
the season (November 22 to
January 22, 2012) include story-
telling around the Tiffany
Christmas tree and Club Nights
on Thursdays to Saturdays.
F
or almost 800 years, the newly-
elected Mayor of London has trav-
elled upriver from the City to
Westminster to pledge allegiance to the
Crown and over time, the procession has
become the splendid Lord Mayors Show.
On November 12, 2011, the day after
the Mayor officially takes office, the
show, which includes everything from
samba dancing to military marching
bands, will start at Mansion House at
11am before continuing to St Pauls
Cathedral, where the Lord Mayor will
be blessed.
A spectacular fireworks display on the
Thames between Blackfriars Bridge and
Waterloo Bridge concludes the days
events. www.lordmayorsshow.org
T
he famous white
Lipizzaner stallions
of the Spanish
Riding School of Vienna
are coming to London
this November, with three
performances at
Wembley Arena from
November 25-27.
The highly-trained
horses and riders of the
Winter Riding School will
display classical riding in
the Renaissance tradition in
a performance of The Impe-
rial Dream to live orchestral
music. In addition, Team
GB Olympic dressage
competitors Lee Pearson
(Paralympics) and Carl
Hester will open the show.
Tickets are available to
order online from
www.livenation.co.uk.
Oh, Vienna...
Family festivities
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Show
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n Procession at the
Lord Mayors show
n The
Spanish
Riding
School at
the Hofburg
Palace in
Vienna
n Halloween Fish Witch
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From Halloween into winter, we have highlighted
some upcoming family events in the capital:
Flying
high
London will have a brand new
way of crossing the Thames next
summer with the introduction of
a new cable car system, running
between Greenwich Peninsula
and the Royal Victoria Docks,
sponsored by Emirates.
Called the Emirates Air Line,
it will take about six minutes to
cross the river using 20-34
cabins, each accommodating 10
seated passengers.
For more information, go to
www.theemiratesgroup.com
.
n How the Emirates
Air Line will look
out & about nwhats on and where
Pub
stroll
W
hat better way
to enjoy the
glorious dis-
play of autumn colours
than to take a long walk
and then end up in the
pub! Within
Warwickshire
(www.withinwarwickshire.co.uk)
outlines the top pub
walks in the county for
taking in the sights and
enjoying local fare. The
4.3-mile Ilmington and
Cotswolds walk starts in
the village of Ilmington,
taking in stunning views
over the Vale of Evesham
from Ilmington Down,
the highest point in rural
Warwickshire, and is best
savoured with a drink and
pub meal in the 400-year-
old Howard Arms.
The Kings Head at
Aston Cantlow claims that
William Shakespeares
parents tucked into their
wedding breakfast there
after marrying in the
village church in 1557;
take a 5.5-mile circular
walk via paths and bridle-
ways to this lovely Tudor
pub or enjoy some canal-
side rambling, taking in
Baddesley Clinton, closely
linked to the gunpowder
plot of 1605, and Pack-
wood House on the
Lapworth and Two
National Trust Houses
route, finishing up in the
Boot Inn country pub in
Lapworth.
Halloween falls at the end of half
term; scare the kids back to school
with our suggestions for some
Halloween-themed events:
Scarecrows and
skeletons
The Freak Week Fright Nights at the
Hop Farm in Paddock Wood, Kent
(www.hopfarmfreakweek.co.uk),
from October 27-31, are not for
the faint-at-heart. Concluding the
attractions Scarecrows and
Skeletons week, where more
sedate Halloween activities such as
apple bobbing and broomstick
games are prevalent, Freak Week
includes a live sance, the slaughter
house maze and the torture cellar
live attraction.
Rail spooky
You can take a spooky steam train
ride on the Halloween and Fright
Night special trains at the Kent and
East Sussex Railway
(www.kesr.org.uk) on October
28 and 29. The evenings start with
face painting and pumpkin carving,
with fireworks and other surprises
on the journey from Tenterden to
Bodiam station.
Bat walk
BeWILDerwood
(www.bewilderwood.co.uk),
Norfolks award-winning adventure
park, hosts the Snagglefang Spooky
Spectacular from October 24-30
with lantern making, mask decorating
and a dusk lantern parade while
events at Holkham Hall
(www.holkham.co.uk) from
October 27-30 include searching for
giant spiders in the Bygones museum,
Halloween horror basement tours,
and a dusk bat walk.
Ghostly gaslight
Blists Hill Victorian Town, near
Ironbridge in Shropshire,
(www.ironbridge.org.uk) plays
host to its annual Ghostly Gaslight
Halloween event on Saturday,
October 29 where the friendly
Victorians usually seen in the town
are replaced by ghosts, ghouls and
things that go bump in the night.
Terrifying towers
Alton Towers (www.altontowers.com)
sees the return of its annual
Scarefest this Halloween (October
15-31), featuring the Boiler House
Carnival of Screams and the Tower
of Terror, alongside regular rides
Nemesis and Oblivion, all available
on one ticket. Alton Towers is open
daily until November 6.
Longleats own ghoul
Longleat Safari & Adventure Parks
(www.longleat.co.uk) seasonal
events programme includes a
Spookfest of Tricks and Treats from
October 22-31 with terrifying tales
in Longleat House, watching out
for the Grey Lady (Longleats very
own resident ghost) as well as a
pumpkin trail and getting up close
and personal with the bats in the
infamous Bat Cave.
Bard times
There are many Halloween events to
enjoy in Shakespeare Country
(www.shakespeare-country.co.uk)
including Spooky Shakespeare at
Anne Hathaways Cottage, with a
grisly trail through the woods to
find Shakespeare characters, and
the Winter Wake at Mary Ardens
Farm for pumpkin carving and to
learn about the plague and
pestilence in the Tudor period.
Warwick Castle (www.warwick-
castle.com) has Halloween events
for all ages from October 26-31,
including the Haunted Castle after
Dark experience; on selected dates,
5.30-9pm.
Trains,
and pumpkin
trails
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at Alton Towers
n The Howard Arms
n Freaky: Hop Farm
O&Atlmautumn11v1pp86-87_T&L 14/10/2011 14:04 Page 86
out & about nwhats on and where
Christmas is just around the
corner and there are numerous
events to help you prepare and
get in the festive mood.
Dickens of a time
There is no better place to have
a Dickensian Christmas market
(www.dickenschristmasmarket.com)
than in the historic city of
Rochester in Kent where Charles
Dickens once lived. From
November 30-December 8, the
medieval castle will be
illuminated in red and green with
rows of fairy light-draped stalls,
selling handmade gifts, mulled
wine and seasonal treats, while
costumed characters, bands and
carol singers entertain the
crowds.
Tree-mendous
Britains biggest Christmas tree
a 118-foot redwood tree,
decorated with 1,800 lights
will be lit up on November 25 at
Wakehurst Place, the Royal
Botanic Gardens country estate
in Sussex (www.kew.org). A
choir singing carols and
Christmas craft activities for
children will accompany the big
switch-on while on selected
dates in December carol singers
and Santa Claus will be in
residence, and festive walks and
storytelling sessions for children
will take place.
Santa specials
Winchester is vying to be
Englands Christmas capital and,
from the switch-on on
November 17, there are many
Christmas events throughout
November and December. A
dedicated new website
(www.christmasinwinchester.co.uk)
has all the details but highlights
include a month-long Christmas
market, an ice rink in the Cathedral
courtyard and Santa special trains
on the Watercress line.
Festive Queen Vic
Head to the Isle of Wight
(www.wightlink.co.uk) for
Christmas celebrations including
a Santa Special train to the
Winter Wonderland at
Havenstreet station and a display
of royal Christmas decorations
and elaborate tableaux vivants at
Osborne House (www.english-
heritage.org.uk/osbornehouse),
which is also hosting a Victorian
Christmas weekend from
November 19-20 with visits
from Father Christmas and
Queen Victoria...
S
pecial displays at Margates Turner
Contemporary gallery
(www.turnercontemporary.org)
located on the site where Turner stayed
when visiting the town include Auguste
Rodins famous marble sculpture, The
Kiss, on view since October 4 until
September 2, 2012, and, from January 28-
May 13, 2012, the gallerys first major
exhibition of Turners work; Turner and the
Elements, a selection of oils and water-
colours based around the classical ele-
ments of Earth, Fire, Air and Water.
One of the most iconic images of
sexual love, The Kiss was voted the
nations favourite work of art in a 2003
poll; the embracing couple come from a
true 13th century story of forbidden love,
immortalised in Dantes Inferno.
One of three full-size versions of the
sculpture created in Rodins lifetime, it is
on loan from The Tate.
Christmas is coming....
Tree wheelers
Save all your
kisses for me
T
he new Forest
Segway adven-
tures, introduced
by leading forest tree-top
adventure company Go
Ape in conjunction with
the Forestry Commission,
are the perfect way to
spend a day exploring
specially-designed, off-
road forest routes on self-
balancing electric, easy-
to-use segways. The
courses, at its sites in
Thetford Forest, Bracknell
Forest and Moors Valley
in Bournemouth, are suit-
able for all from 10 years
of age and over; for more
information go to:
www.goapeforestsegway.co.uk.
V
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n Rochester procession
n Rochester carols
n Wakehurst Place
n A drawing
room at
Osborne House
n Rodins
saucy
sculpture
n Forest fun
O&Atlmautumn11v1pp86-87_T&L 14/10/2011 14:04 Page 87
I GREAT DAYS OUT
88TLMautumn 14/10/11 18:23 Page 2
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uk uncovered
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From Stonehenge to the
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luxury Indian Ocean
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The lowdown on Turkeys hotspot
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new! hit the road taking your car vs renting
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new! seasonal focus valentines cities
And all our other regular features, special offers,
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n Indian Ocean sunset
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Dont miss out on the
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36 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2011
off the beaten track I argentina
Argentina is
enjoying the
equivalent of
a gold rush
in its wine
industry
M
ysterious, sexy, fiery, compelling it
demands your attention, seduces you
and toys with your every emotion. Its
a description that applies to Argentina
every bit as much as it does to its
national dance, the tango.
This human art form, for it is far more than a mere
dance, was born in the latter part of the 19th century in
the poverty-ridden streets of immigrant communities in
the port area of capital Buenos Aires. By 1912 it had
become a worldwide phenomenon, only to fade in popu-
larity until a revival in recent years.
Today, you can go out and watch tango shows in
dinner theatres and tango halls across the city. But, more
importantly, you can still find it being danced on the
streets where it originated.
Head to La Boca the neighbourhood famous for its
Boca Juniors football teamwhich produced Maradona
and you may well see a crowd held spellbound by a
couple sinuously demonstrating tangos allure against a
backdrop of the brightly-coloured houses of the
Caminito pedestrian street. The cobbled street was all but
deserted when I visited in late afternoon, but I managed
to catch two dancers on a stage outside a caf around the
corner just before they finished. Safe by day, La Boca is
not a place to linger at night, our guide warned us as we
sipped beer outside a bar across the street. So we left.
I had wanted to visit Argentina, and Buenos Aires in
particular, for years but had never had the opportunity
before. It was to be a very short visit to this most Euro-
pean of South American cities, with little exploring time
other than a city tour which included visiting the fasci-
nating Recoleta Cemetery with its grandiose tombs,
among themthat of Eva Peron, the nations beloved
Evita.
I also visited the Plaza de Mayo in the city centre,
where white shawls painted on the ground mark where
the Mothers of the Disappeared have walked round in
circles every Thursday for over 30 years. Flanking the
square are buildings including the vermillion-coloured
Government House and colonnaded Buenos Aires
Metropolitan Cathedral.
vineyards
However, Buenos Aires was something of a sideshow on
this trip. My main reason for visiting Argentina was to
discover its burgeoning wine tourismindustry, before
going on to Patagonia travelling south 2,500kmalong-
side the very spine of South America, the mighty
Andes.
Argentina has been growing grapes to make wine for
400 years, but I must admit my ignorance of much of its
Synonymous with the tango, Argentina is fast becoming a
destination for wine touring besides offering scenery and
adventure in Patagonia. Peter Ellegard reports
Land of wine and
tango
I Music of the Andes
I Wine and
empanadas
Peter Ellegard
Argentina National Institute for Travel Promotion
Summer 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 37
off the beaten track Iargentina
produce up until my visit. I had always associated Chile
with wine in South America, but that is because the
Argentineans drank most of what they produced until
recently. It is also only in the last few years that the qual-
ity of the wine has been such that it has been able to
export and compete with other countries. Big names
such as Chandon fromFrance have invested heavily,
helping to improve quality still further.
Argentina is enjoying the equivalent of a gold rush in
its wine industry, with land being snapped up by both
local and international investors to plant as vineyards.
The reason for the boomis because these regions not
only enjoy a superb arid and sunny climate, thanks to the
lofty Andes mountains shielding themfromrain and
cloud, but also because of the altitude the far north has
some of the highest vineyards in the world and the
sometimes huge range in temperature between day and
nightnight, which is ideal for growing grapes.
All these plus the free-draining, mineral-rich soil, the
so-called terroir, help to produce wines which the world
is now clamouring for. Torrontes, Malbec, even the once-
popular Chardonnay, now pass among the City quaffers
who propelled its popularity back in the 1980s: all are
gaining an increasing following as more people discover
how good they are.
And in common with other wine-producing countries,
people want to visit and learn more about them. As a
result, wine tourismhas begun to take off. Wine routes
have been created in Salta, high up in the north-west
close to the Chilean and Bolivian borders and, to the
south, around Mendoza now regarded as one of the top
eight wine-producing regions in the world. Today, there
are over 170 wineries in Argentina open to tourism, and
on my visit I got a taste of what they offer. By taste, I
mean we were visiting two to three vineyards a day and
sampling an average of 10 different wines each day the
record was 25! blending themourselves at times under
guidance fromthe winemakers as well as being taken
through the wine-making process at various wineries.
local delicacies
We were served wonderful meals outdoors on tables
shaded fromthe hot sun, very welcome as Salta is on the
Tropic of Capricorn and these areas enjoy well over 300
days of sun per year. Our palates were treated to all
manner of local delicacies; we even helped to make
traditional empanadas, like miniature Cornish pasties, in
an outside oven at one vineyard on the edge of a desert.
And we stayed in fabulous boutique hotels, both
alongside vineyards and in town. At these, you get
extremely personal service, hand-prepared local special-
ity dishes and an intimate knowledge of the wines.
In Salta, we toured the brand new Museo de la Vid y
el Vino wine (www.museodelavidyelvino.gov.ar),
which is very well presented and helps even the most
unknowledgeable layman, me, gain an understanding and
appreciation.
Of course, visitors are not just going to go for the
wines. Argentinas wine areas have so much on offer in
terms of sightseeing, activities, adventure, history and
culture that you will feel you have barely scratched the
I Watch tango in the streets
I Horse riding in Cafayate
Peter Ellegard
Peter Ellegard

tlm
Summer 2011 3.50
CORKING HOLIDAYS
Wine tours near and far
FLAT OUT
Flying in style
SKIP THE LIGHT
FAN-TANGO
Argentina uncovered
TAKE A HIKE
Exploring Britain on foot
NATURAL WONDER
Bountiful New Zealand
HISTORY REVERED
Boston down to a tea
w
in a trip to Boston and
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cameras in our new
photo contest & more
HERE
COMES
SUMMER
PLUS
Budget London
Golf in Egypt
The Cotswolds
Boutique hotels
10 of the best UK beaches
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coming nextTLMautumn11v1pp91_T&L 14/10/2011 17:15 Page 91
driving n into 2012
Hit the
road, Jack
D
id our California feature inspire you to jump
in a car and drive the gorgeous Pacific Coast
Highway? From the next issue we will have a
dedicated focus on driving some of the other classic
driving routes worldwide. We will show you some of
the most celebrated roads, where you can enjoy
sweeping curves, tight hairpin bends and stunning
scenery all from the comfort of your four wheels.
With planned routes and top driving tips, we will
encourage you to take the top down, throw on the
shades and experience the exhilaration of hitting the
road in some style. Fasten your seatbelts!
n Bixby Bridge is one of the highlights of
the stunning Big Sur section on Californias
Pacific Coast Highway
California Travel & Tourism Commission
92-93tlmautumn11v1_T&L 14/10/2011 17:26 Page 92
driving n into 2012
92-93tlmautumn11v1_T&L 14/10/2011 17:27 Page 93
Mdecins Sans Frontires (MSF) gives free professional medical care to the people who need
it most. In countries devastated by conflict, natural disaster or poverty, our staff battle
epidemics, run emergency clinics and provide basic health services.
Find out where we work, what we do and how you can help at www.msf.org.uk
English Charity Reg No. 1026588
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45TLmay-jun10 22/5/10 11:28 Page 1
95TLMautumn 14/10/11 18:54 Page 1
To advertise in tlm the travel & leisure magazine please call 0203 176 2570
To advertise in tlm the
travel & leisure magazine
please call 0203 176 2570
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Cosy cottage in lovely town.
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Farmhouse B&Bon the magnificent
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96TLMautumn 14/10/11 16:53 Page 1
To advertise in tlm the travel & leisure magazine please call 0203 176 2570
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This unique, private villa is situated in the quiet
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Comfortably accommodating 12 people this luxury
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97TLMautumn 14/10/11 17:35 Page 1
To advertise in tlm the travel & leisure magazine
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Tel: 01727 869693 / 768652
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98TLMautumn 14/10/11 17:01 Page 1
91TLMautumn-IBC 21/9/11 09:42 Page 1
92TLMautumn-OBC 21/9/11 09:43 Page 1

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