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http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
The idea for this project was born from trying to get our campfires started with kindling and wood so wet we couldn't get them to burn with dry paper. Sure charcoal lighter would work but where's the fun in that? Please don't be misled by the term Moose/Bear Repellent, I only used it to create more interest. It probably wouldn't deter a bear that was intent on inflicting harm. If anyone wishes to visit Alaska to enjoy the great outdoors, I would recommend some sort of bear deterrent. Be advised a big ol' can of pepper spray isn't always effective, they have even been seen licking it from the ground. Making plenty of noise or an occasional blast on a portable air horn while you're hiking will keep surprise encounters to a minimum. As for the moose, beware, they usually aren't afraid of anything and would love a chance to bully you for your snacks, or for no reason at all. Some words of caution: Be safe, have a fire extinguisher or bucket of water nearby and someone else there in case whats burning is you. Never operate indoors. You wouldn't pee up a rope or spit into the wind, it'll get ya if you do, so don't use it when the wind is blowing. The Epilog Zing laser is the perfect machine for the microshop or for taking your laser mobile, such as flea markets. My eldest son has recently been turned on to Instructables, and will be completing his second tour of duty fighting for our freedom this winter. The Zing would make the most awsome welcome home gift. Materials: All materials are available at Lowes or Home Depot except the butane refills and birch plywood, which can be found at tobacco shops and craft stores respectively. Total estimated cost $50-$60 US. 8 in. of 1-1/2 in. type "L" copper tubing 1-1/2 in. copper end cap 1-1/4 in. copper end cap 1 in. length of 3/4 in. soft copper tubing 1/4 in. x 1-3/4 in. hitch pin 4 in. x 4 in. x 5MM extruded acrylic 24 in. x 12 in. x 1/8 in. birch plywood 1-1/4 in. length of 1/4 in. oak dowel 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/8 in. x 1/2 in. long aluminum angle 4 pcs. 1/8 in. tension pins 5/8 in. long 12 pcs. #8 x 3/4 flat head wood screws 3 pcs. #6-32 x 1/4 in. flat head machine screws 1 pc. #8-32 x 1 in. flat head machine screw 2 pcs. #6 x 1/2 in. flat head wood screws 1 pc. #8-32 x 1/4 in. flat head machine screw and lock nut 1 pc. #10-24 x 3/8 in. pan head machine screw, flat washer, lock washer and nut pulse ignition for gas grill with wiring harness ( Lowes or Home Depot ) 1 pc. AA battery 2.1 oz. can butane 1 paper clip 1 pc. 3/4 in nylon pipe cap Titebond wood glue super glue a bit of solder Tools used: Laser cutter Pipe cutter Hand drill and assorted bits Dremel with cut-off wheel and drum sander Wire crimper Sand paper Scotchbrite Propane torch Router table Phillips screwdriver
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
File Downloads
MINI FLAME THROWER 1.dxf (187 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'MINI FLAME THROWER 1.dxf']
MINI FLAME THROWER 1.cdr (35 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'MINI FLAME THROWER 1.cdr']
MINI FLAME THROWER 1.pdf (15 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'MINI FLAME THROWER 1.pdf']
Step 1: Choose the fuel supply and material for the fuel chamber
PIC#1 I chose to use a 2.1 oz. can of Bernzomatic butane because I already had it on hand. PIC#2 I checked a copper tubing handbook and found the size of copper tube that's inside diameter most closely matched the outside diameter of the butane supply I was using, which happens to be 1-1/2 inch type "L" tubing. I cut an eight inch length of the 1-1/2" type "L" copper tubing. I Purchased a 1-1/2 inch end cap to fit over one end of the tube and another 1-1/4 inch cap to fit inside the tube. PIC#3 The end of the nozzle on the butane supply is stepped. PIC#4 A hole for the butane nozzle must be placed in exact center of the 1-1/4 inch end cap. To find center I painted the inside of the cap with a black marker and allowed the ink to dry. PIC#5 Coiled up scotchbrite pad rotated gently inside the 1-1/4 inch cap to remove the ink. PIC#6 If done as described you should have a mark dead center. Drill that mark with a 1/16 inch bit followed by a bit just large enough for the butane nozzle to pass through until it contacts the first step on the butane nozzle.
Image Notes 1. The plans I'd drawn up were based on a 60g. or 2.1 oz can of BERNZOMATIC brand butane. RONSON also markets butane but I don't know
Image Notes 1. I chose 1-1/2" type L copper because the inside diameter is 1.505", the diameter of the butane cannister is 1.495". Perfect because the cannister slides
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. undefined 2. undefined 3. Notice the end of the nozzle is stepped. A small hole needs to be drilled through the exact center of the 1-1/4" end cap just large enough to allow the end of the nozzle to pass through.
Image Notes 1. A hole for the butane nozzle needs to be drilled dead center of the 1.25" cap. I painted the center or the cap with a black marker. See next picture.
Image Notes 1. Coiled up a scotchbrite pad, inserted it into the 1.25" cap and gently turned the cap checking often to see if the black marker was almost removed. see next picture.
Image Notes 1. You now have a mark in the exact center of the cap. Run a 1/16" bit through here and follow it with a drill bit just large enough to allow the butane nozzle to pass through to the first step.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
PIC#8 Taped the 1-1/2 inch end cap to the fuel chamber tube to transfer the two holes in the end cap to the tube. Then ran through with a 1/16" drill followed by a 1/4" drill. PIC#9 I cut a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube 5/8 inch long and fish mouthed one end with a drum sander to fit the contour of the fuel chamber tube. This will be the fuel chamber mounting boss. PIC#10 The four main parts of the fuel chamber. PIC#11 Soldered the mounting boss to the fuel chamber, assembled the fuel chamber and end cap with a 1/4 inch x 1-3/4 inch hitch pin. PIC#12 Time to slide the 1-1/4 inch end cap in place and secure with three #6-32 x 1/4 inch screws. PIC#13 I drilled a 7/32 inch hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and attached the ceramic insulated ignitor electrode with a #10-24 x 3/8 inch machine screw, flat washer lock washer and nut. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole 180 degrees from the first hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and fastened a ground electrode fashioned from a paper clip with a #8-32 x 1/4 inch long machine screw and lock nut through this hole. PIC#14 For asthetic purposes I capped the end of the fuel chamber mounting boss with a nylon cap.
Image Notes 1. I scribed a line from the center of the cutout to the opposite end of the tube. Marked a center location 1.25" from the tube end. Next I transferred the center mark 120 degrees in both directions and drilled all three holes with1/16" bit.
Image Notes 1. This pic shows the 1-1/2" cap with the 1/16" pilot holes drilled 180 degrees apart, 90 degrees from the center of the cut slot and 3/4" from the closed end of the cap.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. To mount the opposite end of the fuel chamber to the frame I ran a #29 drill bit through the 1-1/2" cap, chased it with an 8-32 tap.
Image Notes 1. I chucked an 8-32x 1" screw into a cordless drill and spun it while holding a file against it to remove all but the threads that will engage in the end cap.
Image Notes 1. I taped the 1-1/2" cap in place to transfer the hole locations to the fuel chamber tube.
Image Notes 1. This is the 3/4"x .625" tube fish-mouthed to fit the 1-1/2" fuel chamber tube.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. I soldered the mounting boss to the fuel chamber centered directly over the hole in the bottom of the fuel chamber. 2. 1/4 inch x 1-3/4 inch hitch pin
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. I glued up the individual pieces holding them in alignment with 1/8"x 1-1/4" cotter pins
Image Notes 1. This is the left side of the frame assembly, it's been glued and clamped. 2. Here's the right side. I built it this way so all the moving parts would fit in the left side making the right side a cover. Makes it easier to assemble and disassemble to replace the battery. 3. The 1/4" oak dowel is only glued to the left side frame.
Image Notes 1. After the glue cured I rounded the edges of the left side of the frame on the router table, then fit the right side cover to the frame with the cotter pins to hold them together while rounding it's edges also.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. This is the pin that engages with the mounting boss on the fuel chamber.
Image Notes 1. This is the pin protruding through the 1-1/2" end cap and frame. 2. 1-1/2"x1-1/8" aluminum angle rear fuel chamber retainer. The hole for the pin must be drilled after all final adjustments.
Image Notes 1. I omitted these two parts in the final assembly. They're not needed and would add complexity for no reason. 2. This is the ignitor push rod. I made it extra long as it would be the only timing mechanism for the ignitor and fuel discharge.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. This is one of the 1/8"x 5/8" tension pins in place connecting the plunger to the ignitor cam. I used 1/4" and 1/8" drill shanks for alignment until the glue set.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
Image Notes 1. I will attatched the ground wire under this nut.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/
http://www.instructables.com/id/MooseBear-Repellent-aka-FLAME-THROWER/