Front Brake System

FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM
© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 1

IMPORTANT !
BEFORE YOU GO ON;
PLEASE READ *THIS*.
Please take into consiteration that you are dealing with brakes
here;
they define the thin line between being a happy smiling GL rider
and a not-so-happy ex-GL rider in a wheelchair
or even a very dead GL rider.
If you haven't done this kind of thing before

please have someone qualified, check your work !
Thanks.
OK so lets have a look at the front master cylinder
(please note this is for the 75-77 range. The later models are a
bit different)
here's an exploded view

you'll need to have parts ready for this. I don't care what my
brakes on a 'new' bike look like; I'll rebuild them no matter what,
so I've bought ..:

2 sets of front caliber sealing kits (aftermarked)
..one front master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
..one rear master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
a few other parts ,like some sets of shims. Didn't know
they were available, but found them at CMS in Holland
The rear caliber sealing kit is still in the mail somewhere out
there

OK so take the master cylinder off your bike
(remember; brake fluid is an exellent paint-strippe, so protect
your paintwork)
and go to work.
Handle comes off
together with this plate

that hold this rubber-thingie.
Our friend Randakk has a nice little piece on the subject
of brake-handle and that rubber-thingie:
Odd Front Brake Lever Problem
then off comes this rubber boot

witch is held in place by a plastic washer and a clip
for the next step you gonna need one of these
now put the assembly in a wise (with those aluminum/rubber

protectors you can see on the photo)
down here you'll see the circlip that keeps hold of all the parts
inside the cylinder bore
spray down some WD40 or similar as the circlip can be a real

b**** to get out, but here it comes

this is what you'll find inside
close up of the piston assembly

now for a look down the fluid reservoir, clean a much as you can
and take out screws. mmmm....nice! looks OK !
there's every chance it could have looked like this .-(
take off reservoir (note the dark dirt down there)

Time for a bath. I use a household bathroom cleaner for this first
cleaning
then submerge in a bath of fluid that dissolves rust/lime/dirt

and finish off with brake cleaner and giantuargianatronic(?)
quantities of compresed air. CLEANLINESS is the key to a good
brake rebuild
here we have old parts/new parts
check valve goes on spring (only 75-77 models)

you'll have to mount the secondary cup on the piston.
Compare to the old piston
and be really really really carefull when you slide it on.

Use a bit of brake fluid to help it along, and remember
ONLY brakefluid, NO oil/grease or anything goes!!!
squeeze it

and be absolutely sure you get it right
...NOT like this
but like this
check it up agains the old one

now for the rest of it
NOTE the primary cup goes in THIS WAY
now check the reservoir O-ring and the grove that holds it.
The o-ring is normally not part of the rebuild-set but it's available
as parts# 45516-371-003 or if you have a good O-ring supplier

you'll ask for a 45 x 2,4 mm
now take a good long look down the cylinder. Check for dirt,
scratches etc. You really should check to see if the bore diameter
is inside service limit witch is 17.515 mm (more on that later)
in the bottom of that LEFT recess there is tiny tiny hole, (can't
really see it in the photo) that you need to check to see if it is
blocked

one way of doing that is to block that hole on the right of the
above photo and then light down like this
and by looking into the cylnder you can see if the hole is 'clear'.
Yeah, it's that small blue blurry dot. (I couldn't keep the camera
still)
Time to check if the cylinder diameter is within service limit:

75-78= 17.515mm / 0.6896"
79 = 15.925 mm / 0.6270"
so walked over to the Oil Cave to get some help, asI don't have
the tool for that.
"HP" took out the old probe-diameter-measuring set (or whatever

it's called)
stuck it in
and moved it about a bit.

This is the probe itself that measures inside the cylinder
and the measurement is checked with the micrometer
fortunately everythings fine; it read 17.48 and something.
Time to put everything back together again
here're the parts in the order they go in:

(note the check valve at left end of the spring; ony for early
models)

in goes spring(and check valve)
note the direction of witch the primary cup goes in.

'Dress' it with little brake fluid.

make absolutely sure it's sitting right in the cylinder
and then drive it in with a socket or something similar
then the piston. Dress with brake fluid

drive it in (can be a little tricky; it's a tight fit and it has to 'pass'
the grove in the cylinder.) Check that it moves freely up and
down, by pressing with a rod
the next part is a little tricky as well: getting the (stop-

plate/washer and) circlip in. It helps if you (or a helper) presses
down the piston a bit with a rod, so you can get the circip down
to the grove

make absolutely certain the circlip is well seated in the grove,
ALL around
in goes rubber boot etc.

and reservoir O-ring (again dress with brake-fluid; makes it
easier to put the reservoir back on)
screw down reservoir

and that's it: one piece of rebuild front brake master cylinder.

so now for the calipers. Here's what we're looking at rebuilding:

removing them from the bike is straight forward
so let's start here:
remove caliper from bracket (this you'll do while on the bike, but
for this thread I have placed it in a wise)
it ain't pretty!
Remove pads, piston boot/dust cover, clip and pad spring

to get the piston out;
place a rag as shown
apply air preassure through brake line hole
while air screw is closed (notshown on phote)
and at some point hopefully, it will go WROOOOF and relaese
at least on early models you'll have to split the caliper to get the
piston out

it'll probably look as yummy as this
remove the seal (don't even think about re-using it!)

after a good cleaning, you go to the kitchen
find that roll of tin-foil
cram it into a ball
and...yes, use it to clean up all that horrible gum,
rubber recidue etc. that has accumulated inside the bore.
[stepping up on soap-box]
"NO NO NO you do not want to use abrasive paper !!!!!"

The bore wall is quite 'soft' and the last thing you want to do is
to remove material from the bore wall.
You want to CLEAN it!
NOT expand the diameter !
(witch you in this case (GL 77) check to see if inside the service
limit
of 38.245mm. No picture. Took it to my friend who did the
master
cylinder check)
So you fix it up with something witch is SOFTER than the

bore wall. Tin-foil works perfect for this.
you'll go through quite a few tin-foil balls.

But heck! they're are darn cheap.-)
and look ! It works!

(If not; it's because your bore are scratched
and therefore beyond re-use. DON'T ! These things are vital to
your safety!))
oooooh no, look at that. It looks horrible:
back to the kitchen. More tin-foil. And they come up brilliantly

Now if they look like this
or are scratched, or in any way look dodgy;

I don't care if you disagree
just throw them away!
No sanding the pitting away, you don't want a undersized and
probably
out of 'roundness', leaking piston.
no 'filling' with whatever miracle-liquid-steel in a tube.
I will NOT last.
Also aplies if they are under service limit. Throw it away!!!

For 75-77 the service limit is 38.105 mm. Again I took it to my
friend
as I don't have a micrometer that big.
Just get a new one. Period.

Be smart: order a stainless steel item from
Pistol Pete and you'll never have that problem again.
BTW a slide gauge just won't do.

I tried it just to make my piont;
It is not precise enough and it came out differenty for every try:
Very few people have access to a inside-a-bore-micrometer-

thingie or even a micrometer, so you'll either find someone who
has, or play a bit of russian roulette with you safety
OR
one thing you CAN do and I am not sure I'd recommend it;
one of my Clymers sugests that as the service limit of

the bore diameter is 38.245mm and the service limit of the
piston is 38.105mm the MAX 'slack' is (38.245 minus 38.105 =)
0.140mm: you can try'd inset a feeler gauge, to measure the
'slack' So put CLEAN piston into CLEAN bore (WITH OUT the
seal!) and insert feeler gauge
for this one I could hardly squeeze in a 0.05mm

so apparently everything's fine, but it does not take into account
the fact that the feeler gauge is flat and does not follow the
rounded contour of piston/cylinder. Also; you don't wonna go too
crazy with that feeler gauge and scratch the bore !
So....?!
The inside of the pistons will most probably be very rusty

witch really doesn't matter that much, but I let them stay
overnight filled with 'rust-eater'

so that the worst of it was 'eaten'
and to protect them from further detoriation I smeared the inside

with a high-temp nickel compound. I guess copper/brake grease
would do the trick as well

Time to nice'en up things. Painted the calibers. Not any old paint,
mind you. As you know; brake fluid is an exellent paint stripper,
so I used a two-pack heat and brake-fluid resistant paint
especially made for brake parts:
Cleaned them and masked off
and smartened up various part using the electric buffer

so now things are ready to be put back where they belong,
along with the new hardware (or are the rubber-parts software ?
Ha ha) No ! the pink stuff is not a day-cream. It's a high-temp
sicilone based grease that came with the rebuild set. MotherShip
Honda recommends using this stuff for assembly of brakeparts.
If you don't have it, you'd just use brake fluid.

smear with pink stuff and place the new seal
smear with pink stuff and put in piston

now take daughters face and smear with pink stuff
OOOOOOPS.....where did that come from ???

fit the new boot

Check that it's seated in piston groove
and
the boot clip is seated in caliper groove all the way 'round
put back together the two caliper halves and tighten to torque
spec. 150-200 kg-cm / 11-14 ft.lb

Grease the pins with pink stuff.
WHY ? :
Remember these calipers are 'floating' (pins move inside bracket
holes) meaning they move sideways in relation to the bracket.
Braking--->Piston moves out--->press on brake pad at piston-
side---> when this brake pad touches rotor, the rest of the piston
movement will pull the whole caliper sideway, thereby pushing
the other pad into rotor.
on goes pin covers

and note that pins have a straight cut-off that fits into recess on
caliper
nice cleaned pad spring

came out nicely....right?

Not for resale or to
be published. To be
passed around your
Wing friends

Front Brake System

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FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 1

If you haven't done this kind of thing before

here's an exploded view

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 2

so I've bought ..:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 3

together with this plate

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 4

then off comes this rubber boot

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 5

for the next step you gonna need one of these

now put the assembly in a wise (with those aluminum/rubber

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 6

spray down some WD40 or similar as the circlip can be a real

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 7

close up of the piston assembly

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 8

there's every chance it could have looked like this .-(

take off reservoir (note the dark dirt down there)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 9

then submerge in a bath of fluid that dissolves rust/lime/dirt

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 10

here we have old parts/new parts

check valve goes on spring (only 75-77 models)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 11

and be really really really carefull when you slide it on.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 12

but like this

check it up agains the old one

NOTE the primary cup goes in THIS WAY

as parts# 45516-371-003 or if you have a good O-ring supplier

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 15

Time to check if the cylinder diameter is within service limit:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 16

"HP" took out the old probe-diameter-measuring set (or whatever

and moved it about a bit.

fortunately everythings fine; it read 17.48 and something.

Time to put everything back together again

here're the parts in the order they go in:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 18

note the direction of witch the primary cup goes in.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 19

and then drive it in with a socket or something similar

then the piston. Dress with brake fluid

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 20

the next part is a little tricky as well: getting the (stop-

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 21

in goes rubber boot etc.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 22

screw down reservoir

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 23

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 24

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 25

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 27

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 28

remove the seal (don't even think about re-using it!)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 29

"NO NO NO you do not want to use abrasive paper !!!!!"

So you fix it up with something witch is SOFTER than the

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 30

you'll go through quite a few tin-foil balls.