Title Page C~Pi~/]/ligllt Page .A.ckrtowledgem.en.ts I n.h/lodU.ctio n. CHAPTERl.

TIle Basics CHAPTER

2

Resc'ue Knots CHAPTER 3 Escaping: a Bela)! CHAPTER 4· Descending:

CHAPTERS ,l\scending: CHAPTER 6 &'9.ising: CHAPTER?

CHAPTERS

CHAPTERg Getting: O'utside Help ,Appendix ,A::,Accident Statistics ,Appendix B:: Gea~ Specificatio'ns ,Appendix C: Knolt Efficiencies ,Appendix D:: Co'ntin'uing: Ed'ucatioln ,Appendix E:: Reco'nlnlended Reading: G1OISlS'Q l/1l1' ..,.

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T,H:El1\ll:OUNTA1N,E~E1RS :BOO:KS is the 110np rofi t ,Pub lishi r~,garm of The l\f 0 untai r~,eers Club, a,r~, orqanization founded in 191016: and dedicated to the eJ;plora ti0 r~" preseroation. and enjoument of outdoor and unlderness a,reas ..

No part o'f this book may be reproduced in, any form o:r by any electronic, mechanical, o:r other means, without permis sion in, writing from the publisher
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Acquiring Editor: Christine H 0 sler Project Editor: Mary Metz Copy Editor: Julie Van Pelt Cover and B0 ole Design: TIle :M ountaineers B0 oks Layout: Kedte Basart/Union Pageworks Illustrator: Mike Clelland Photographs by :Molly Lo omis and Andy Tyson unles S otherwis e noted, Cover photographer: Mark Fisher Frontispiece: The need for self-rescue skills e(lr~,lrise wh,er~,least ( expected.
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Lo omis, :Molly, 1977 -Climbing self -res cue : improvising s elutions for eri 'O'll tu ati 'o'n' I"~llU.) ',,,,,'" / ollv Lo o'm' •. and ,L1.l.l.U.) ,.1, 'o'n' - '1Cited iLl""""!i::r M "' ;;al"!i::r ill',:, ':, ,)' ,,: ': IJll Ai" u,.
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P em Includes index. ISBN o-SgSS6-772-X I,. :Mo'lln,t,ain.ee:rin.,g- S earch and res cue op era tions 2,. :M ountaineering accidents ,.I,. T)lS on Andy, 196 S- I I Title,
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Acknowledgments
h informati · d hI , enormous tt an e-} OU. f'or tt ,e m ormation, expe~lle,nces~] anc time [iLl p'e:nenro'u,sly<>" shared bv Mike Clellandl. "".J Kellv ,CO rdes [.,Kevin ,.J Emerv. Mark Fisher, 'Will Gadd, Ben Gilmore, "".JTonv .Iewell, ,A..J'. ....,J"" N" AlI", ",,'," L·"" ,II,'~' ]C, e .ewis, ,t-\..l, en 'O"('BI' ""'" mne ">" ·'I·'L' annon, J'ten PI'·" , ,i""\.JJ::::}/ JI\...1lC, L' " · :' '" ~']ne~] J\""""d"'IDI"::'h "OUJS ·d' "" ·1 S h ·d' CI d' S 'W·II· JS[.] ~aas."", T 0 b::,,'y<>" h .'HlJ:':::t. Ph 1, ~"C,~'neic er,"".J ,:"vc e ~"O,I es, G".art h~',',:,,:,,',' ", ~"C,~' "" ::: ': 1, S S and folks at the followina 0 raanizations : 'Wernenr Braun [iLl [iLl] , ,,'" " " ,d,,' ,', ('¥\"_"",'"" 06eHl.1Lit ,', r:St "I' ,'"h". e ea,nrc, . a.n"" : R,:'I,, ,',,', e) , "0,, Ib""1' ,fC'""" ,',,' nb , (' A 1,I' ,1,' ca. \'""escu,e", ",,} ,,00Hl. ""S ",t-\..l.a,s,
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:M oun taineerina [iLl S cho 01): ; Lis a, Gnade (,' D:l\~:Mf): Mike Gibbs ; (Riggi na F0 nr Res cue) ; Go rdv Kito and :Maureen :Mcl.aughlin [iLIiLI [iLl .J [iLl ' ,',' :' ,I'I· N"'" ,I' lo,na.. :' ,a,nr,e",, ,', " 'M'", ,', ,',,"/' ,', , ',," ' ,',,' ':, ,,"/'r:St""I' ,'"h". (D"'i,, "e,na«] ",', a"ti ,',,' I pJ'I' 1,' ,C), T" 0,' Hl, "~["oyenr (' r:S:'~'I' L'" a.1,'ee ,fC'",0, u.n, t ry a,It" ea,nrc"
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and Rescue); Ken Phillips (Grand Canyon N ational Park); Kolin "\':' P"" ,','"c· ,'" 1," (' B':I'I' ,'"1," Di O'~VIC,{ '," .a,c, { , "]a.Hl,o,n",,d E}""',"·"" Hl.e,n, t L',, "" .,,', PJ"I'" I , R:'I""d "\ ·,'"1," ,.uqUJp ' td C), ' a,u, \".0"" e~llC, { (Talkeetna Air Taxi);~ .Iim Ewina and Paul Niland (" terlina[iLl S [. [iLl Ro P e) J", ed 'W,:,:;,', ]·11]· ~O,'::n (A ~"C,"~ A,'I c c id: / e 1\J:o' ~. r ,..t"\....t"l., ",' iL"I.l :,:, th A,'I m:'i II,e:'
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Climb 1011[g; ell 0 ugh and at one point OJr another getting stuck in a. ' i a.'H1. igh 'U,P,:off the [iLll h [iLl, around is inevitable: stuck Jrop,:es.~ a. crucial [JI , sear 'H1.llSSill [iLll in action..., wandering[iLll off - route i11tO dicey P" Piece of [iLll · ..l [J ~'~ h I d I. terram,~ OJr an rmurv tt at ieaves a. cI·J'H1,ber In neec 0 f' h .e,.p,:. ier J Typically, we piece OJr puzzle O'U,Jr '\7a:}/' to a. solution and move forward, Climbers are [iLll.J aenerallv smart and resourceful. .., able to T -"',,][_:' -" ,'., ,'., :" II· [iLl [iLll .. ..0, ,," { 011 h .a.n".,.'1 c,h..a .. ,e,nP'ltlIP' situations. ~ so ,\,.h ,~, a, ,\,Th ,'., I ,e b"",,00,1 ,'., [ .', d ,e .J
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Fli th ,JrOU,[gt. . th ,e a1111U.a., A ,CCl.,,en,t.S ln, M' Ol th A ,m"e~lean, h ,.. I id [. [. JP ,.. Mou,n,tai~leel~if~,g (A1\[Mf) and SO'H1.e 0 bvio 'U,S trends become ·d if II b · to cI·J'H1.b· In a, sa:f' e[., evic ellt. 'M "~::,,.06t[., ]1 not a .. cI·J'H1. iers strive ::" intelliaent, ~. and ill d ep,:endent manner. ~ but we often 'U,P,:the ante [iLll . · b · h ,.ess-expenellce d partners, f' au to practice ·1 · '\7 hen we cIJ'H1, ::" with less-exneri '::: O'U,Jrrescue techniques (until the crucial moment), foraet that we [iLll are smart and act dumb..., OJr we end ·u.p,:iu.st needing to learn the , [JI [iLll I h.a,Jr::.. (someti d' "SOH1.etlH1.es \/eJr}' h.a,Jr::') ,\'a,}'. Th" a,Jre plenty 0 f' a.ccl::idents '" d' "7 ..,,' '" .eJre .. everv~'.J 'yt,.::/e th" at ,,,t:U,"i.l,,,t:UIJ:'J: d 0,':: n 0,':: C,":ver '\'9 ,~1\,.T,~ 1I1:~ es t 0,':: in f"'9 t 0,': '9C,": d esnts :st .. v . .. 11f1i ,~"'" inc lud ed '911f1ie·'\0,'::umented bee ause d th" ere "!l'·~T'9P outsid e·'\ h elp rvid .. '9C,": .. never e'\p:0,':: .. d .. rte s P1lfli0,': esd f" 0,':: th" e·.'\p: arty 'M\· ,. '9'[~I'yt:::/ C,": 1· d esnts '911f1ie·.'\
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because the climbers were able to take care of themselves. ~ usin [0] !P"' their P nroblem-s 01vi11!P"'[., , [0 first- aid. and res cue skills to handle the situation indep enden tly, ,'., w h a. IrttI,e H1.onre ,{IlLO'\T-,h-"..0'\ T a,n"," practice, H1.a,ll} 0 fe' t h I· 1 d vnracti ""]t.,, ...e reported accidents could be handled better by the party in the 'H1,O'Ullta.11'11s0 nr on the nrock, The 'H1,0nre effectively' 'yo'u, as a. climb er are able to COlI trol the situation (". [0] [.]bv [0] , e !P"'. ~ .J aettina vour P artner [0] .J ' safely dO'\1J.1L the route to the base of the climb rather than waitina midroute for rescue bv an outside P arty [. .., the less effort v). [0] .J, (and risk) is required of outside rescuers. Depending 011 the situation, by employ <in[g: self-rescue skills '}/o·u. 'H1,a:y' be able to eliminate the need for outside assistance entirelv,,.;. if outside .J assistance 11S even all option, Dep en din !P"'011 weather. .., local , ,[0] .. resources. ,.;..Jall d vour I .ocation. ,.;..Jrt H1.a,~, 110t bie, ",,' [0 antzeed rescue nr!p" efforts are time- consumina. P eop,: le- and [0] sear- in tensive.~ and are [OJ..", often costly, 110t to mention risky for rescuers (frequently volunteers), ,A. solid [g:nra.sp of self - rescue skills helps eveJrj/'olle in a. bad situation, Remember that 110\1:ice partners 'H1,a:y' firid themselves needina to rescue "f/O·U. th.11'11P'Sp'O awrv, This book 11S if - [0] [0] [0] .J ~].J ·· 110t just f' or 'yo'u,; it is f' or '}/o·u.nrpartner as weII ,,.
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confidently handle rescue scenarios ranging from simple to CO'H1.pIex ill all mediums of the 'vertical ,\TcO rld+ro ck, snow, and ice+and also aims to serve as a. resource by sharing technical tips and tricks, resources for continuing education, and data Jreg:' :,'a,Jrdillg:':,'both. clirnbin g:' related injuries and clirnbin g:' rear, It ]S r., :,'g:' O'U,Jrhope that this type of information, which helps further 'yo'U,Jr skill b as e[.J call help P revent 'y<>'O'U, 'H1. [iLl] fJr0 aettina into trouble ill the .., , , [iLl] first place, Th.. IS not a. text 011 prevention of accidents; on the contrary, is it a,SS'U,'H1.es that '}/o·u.'H1.a:}/·iend yourself ill a. situation that requires f good critical thinking and creative Jrope work to alleviate, Prevention ]s[.J however. ,il all overall [iLll ,il and one wav to learn aoal. ,il .J about prevention IS to realize the penalty of failure, Understanding the reality of the real-life situations presented ill this book will make any smart climber focus on prevention, As ill life,~ in climb ill [iLl] there are often rnultip, le '\Ta:y<>li solve a. !P"' to single p JrObIe'H1.. Certainly s O'H1.e s oluti 0 lIS are 'H1,0Jre effieien t than others and each has benefits and downsides; but the bottom line ·h h .. iest"· utton ]S tt ,e one tt at '}/O·U.as a, rescuer call ·h h ]S tt at tt ,e "b [. so, I· execute successfully and safely, In writing this book we have tried to avoid a, black-and-white approach to expl aining rescue · !P"' dS ,.1 {e "a [. d [.[.)' J\ :'::: [iLl] · · S 1 ·11 ('· e. [.J·U.SIn[iLl] '\TcOJr:':::1·1 "I ..ways"· a:n:'::: '"never"). ,A. d osmatic {I ..s ,]. teaching style oIlly' hinders development of the critical thinking we believe IS so imp, ortant to beina a. CO'H1.p,: etent. confident.,il and [iLll,,il safe climber,
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· hat In · ·h Rea Itze tt at i some instances 'yo'u, 'nla:y' 110t a.,g:nree with our to a eertain scenari 1 .. ,; h h d" · a,ppnroa.c h . to a, certam scenario or S,Q·11 ratt er tt an :'::: d" the tscarc h · · so I.·U.t1011 pc: esente d ,.] ta1· rt as a. I· '::: re , earnma[0] Ope: ortunrty to ,~r " pc: investigate the pnr06 and COlIS of the different methods. Not e\l'eryr · 1 h .. de d so I.·U.t1011,CllO'\1J1i to the cI· bi [0], d ]SC1P,:,me ]S me I.·U.:'::: -Sp,: , ace.~ .InI ::,,]11P"'::: · I· :· '::: time, and sanity intervened+but we have tried to P resent a. varietv of soluti ons .., addressina[0], the P ros and cons of each .. ,.] LJ Initially the 11U.'H1,b r of options 'H1,a:y'overwhelm a. climb er new to e 'S~ · \: · ~" · II hould I · ~" ti se If' rescue, ~"t1C,1 wit h .rt ancd a... s,~" c biecome C, ear wit h.time! .O'U. · C"J'· bi ~".a,ps 'H1,06t important I:}:'~l \:,;'l,lm,i,~'ln,g ~~ S'"~.f_ R"':es'cu:e see, 1 to ,,"',:te~~l-, < {S P er h develop '}:,o·u.nr critical- thinking skills as a. climb er . The unfortunate truth ]S that real-life rescues rarely unfold as ill practice; the list of variables ]S endless. Cli"~,bif~,g ~~ Self- Rescue addresses these variables bey' using scenarios that call on readers' understanding of imp rovis ational res c·u.e. Altho ugh exp erience ]S undoubtedly one of the best teachers for develop ina judgment, .., [0] the climbing conundrums shared ill this book ,\1jI1 help '}:'O·U. all be the more prepared for the unexpected when it cnrops 'u,p.
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Ciimb if~,g: ~ ~ Sellf:'- Rescue ]S 110t an ill tro dueto ntj1\';:/ climb ill g:' manual. ::' 'We assume that readers already have knowledge of and adequate P ractice with the fo 11 win[O].J skills: belavina. nra,p,: ellina. 0 P" [OJ.., "P [OJ..,
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· ifi · 1· , · [iLl] ·d' · · 1 [iLl] P 1acme artrr C1~t, P roteetion.~ construetma mu 1tic trectiona .. aneho JrS[.]lead -climbina[iLI]~]theo rv. and b asie clirnbin [iLl]" knots (" [iLl] P" fiP'"u,Jre .., J .., · ht · d hd · ') 't JS · 1 id e1[g;~' series anc overt anc series). Thi 1S a..SO 110t a, fie. rst-arc manual. Altho ugh SO'H1.e scenarios 'H1.a:}/· reference specific ..][JI.., · · [iLl] te treatment, P ac ca.p'lt [iLl d' mrurres. coverma the treatment. .., oackaei na. anc manaaement 0 f' , [iLl [iLl] h IllJ'u,nes ·d e h hi 1 'lllif d zcme S'U,C , jni .. 1S 0·U.tS1:'::: tt ,e scope 0 f' tt JS b::""00,:. .i1rJ:1,e': [. fie O~~ \ / [. 'lllif [. [. ·11 .ilrJ:I[OUj1,ta~,f~"eel~~,f~,g b::""'Y' J'a,'H1.es 'W:' ,,'"t,',' 1,\:eJrso:n :" " OJr th .e compact ~'
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Backcountru First ,A,i.d and Extended Ca~~,e by Buck Tilton are recommended as a,CCO'H1,Panying references fo Jr first- aid skills.

Chapters 1, thr 0 ugh 7,,/' an instruction manual focusing 011 are , [iLl ' [iLl] imp revised self-rescue, T ext [., illustrations, ~,iLI and photographs , ~ ' explain knots and raisinq s'y' , srems descent and ascension methods and considerations, ~ P assin [iLl lCl1LOtS[., ,O,\T to safely assist P" h , ri[iLl] ..1 [JI d' ·J h · f' · an d JrllP" all rmurecd' c1· b .., anc a, varietv 0 f' ott er In OrH1,a.tl011. .IH1, ier, The simplest '\Ta:}/' to complete ally' given task ]S presented first, then other options f0110,\T. h" ,t, ,', c,1·' nb ,', to u,n"" eJrs, 3,n"" this ,t·, ill ,," o '} OU. ,.. ,0 ,,",e ,.. D,,",,,"/,'",',~l'e t,,", b'" ,',~lH1.3,S,eJr ,'""JH1, ,,",eJr,0 ur 'd""': star 'd""': JS S, U.fe' liL~ N10. The situations presented are ea.s}/· to envision and the systems build 011 each other. 'We do 110t recommend jumping ill to S omethina[iLl] like co U,f~,te~~ a la nee ~~ap":"p":" b " " ,elli.n,g:,"("chap ter [4/ ,'): right :. [iLl off the ba,t[.] though, The instructions ill this book build 011 one .., [iLl
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T ·h d ]S d' ,", anot her, so a start-to- fi.e.11]S", reae i recommened'ee . ']'f' you" 1 {l1LO'\ C), ·h · 'yo'u,nr 1 cnots (' h apter 2"'~1 'yo'u, 'H1.a:}/· h .006e to start with esca,pIn,g: a. "C,~' C,~' belav (" hap ter I'): and work fnr0'H1.there, The buil dill [iLl] blocks of c p-' .J · If sei '- rescue are a.II III esca.pIll,g: .. · a. bId' ,a:y' anc are use d III ie '::: · h II h conjunction with a... ott er systems. After the instruction po rtion of the b 0 ok, we give 'yo'u, a, chance to test '}/o·u.nr skills ill chapter 8. This chapter 11S devoted to climbina scenarios ranging fnr0'H1,moderate to severe, 'We asked [iLl] [iLl [iLl] friends and other experienced climbers for tales of their 0'\1J.1L mini and full-blown epics. SO'H1,e scenarios have been tweaked a. bit to illustrate a. certain point, but all are fnr0'H1,real situations, The simplest and most time-efficient solution 11S presented, with other options following, 'We also discuss potential pitfalls and prevention tips, as well as list what skills to review, More experienced readers 'H1,a:y' choose to begin with the scenarios, using the refereneed sections as a. '\Ta:}/' to brush ·U.p011 their skills. Information provided in chapter 9 and in the appendixes 11S an excellent '\Ta:y' to arm yourself with even more knowledge, Reviewina the statistics of documented accidents over the Past [iLl] , fiftj/'-plu,s '}/ea.nrs (Appendix ,A,) will tune '}/o·u. in to CO'H1.'H1,Oll ',',, ·d ·d ...eH1".,anc '\"h at sort 0 f' se"If'- rescue d T '" accrc ent f'actors.fh .0'\ T to av 0]"" t h techniques 'yo'u, could employ should 'yo'u, encounter them .. Ad'· 'S~ I 1 at a. wtc e se I· id ,np,:Penc IX ]B' G"ear Sp eel ifieati ,}' cations ,.00, rs eetion 0 f' ~rea.nr 011 the market and describes thinas like the strenzth of a. [iLl] [iLl] [iLl] · · · A d'I ' pIece 0 f' protection, a. eara bnner, or 0 f' ,\ e bb ",,]ll,gl.,,,,,',ppe,n,,,,·X C' ",' ·
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1 · h· ,~' I Knot E'~ffi"(... cienctes, call h ,e,,p 'yo'u, 'H1.a,re COllSC10·U.S cr oices a.brout the 1Cl1LOtS'yo'u, use instead of rely <in,g: 011 habit and memorization (as manv of ·U.S do'): . The ,COntinuin [iLl] Education !P"' and .J [. Recommended Reading appendixes are a, collection of organizations, publications, and courses that can help '}/O·U. con tinue developing 'yo'u,nr skills. But 'H1.0£t importantly, practice the rescue systems we describe! The only '\Ta:y' to learn them is by practicing, Learn to use friction hitches, releasable hitches, and backup s. Learn the ins and outs of raising systems. Remember: If 'yo'u, are ill a. rescue situation.~ thinas[iLl] have alreadv [iLl] '\TnLOll!P"'. There is no .J sone [iLl] sood reason to shortcut safety du rill [iLl] rescue: ~ 'y<>'O'U, !P"'a. ,\1j11only [iLl] II ., ell da:n,g:enr 'yo'u,nr 0'\1J1i life as weu as '}/o·u.nr partner's. Th"· b l'' s ,.]1 "~' ::,,00,{ .]S goal is to help pnrepa,nre 'yo'u, for the unexpected and practice is essential for doing just that, .Iust as baekcountry skiers practice transceiver searches and whitewater kayakers work on rolls, climb ers should practice vertical res cue skills. Rescue is as rnuch all art as it is a, science and it is constantly evo lvin g:' 'W't',::,', e·.'\h ave d 0,':: 0,':: 1IfIibest to p:1IfIi0,': e·.'\'9C,":'U.rate.. fe'C,": ts :,' ne 'U. rvid C,": '\ '9 fip·u.nres and techniques but chanaes are inevitable, Please send [iLl] II [iLl] 'y<>'o'u,nr CO'H1.'H1,e:nts to us, care of the publisher, so we call keep the info rmation curren t. Thanks!
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an imnor · II door activities. N, 0 important concern In a... outc oor activiti ,,>' book can alert Y'o'u,o eV'ery'hazard or anticipate the t · .. d " :":: escnptions 0f teethni .nIq'u.es Imutations 0f ev'ery' reac er. TIre descrinti and procedures in tllis book are intended to provide g:ene~al information, This is not a, complete text on self - rescue techniq ue. Nothing, :,'substitutes for formal instruction. routine practice, and plenty of experience. When y·O'U. follow a,ny'of the procedures described h.e~e;lY'o'u, ssume responsibility for a Y'o'u,~ own safety, Use this book as a. g:ene~al g;uide to further information, -Tl'~,e M OU]lLtain,eel~S'Books

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looked at his uiatch: 6,"::,'·0,1 :0,1' The , ste 'e" no ~~:",-o,:,:#"", tl» cMl-O':,:,P":, at 0':.:1'"tl» limb d:id:/ / 'e"m:'"a ' lik»'~yl'''' O':.:,P":, 0':" tl» ~O:.:, tl» re u'.~,e:' fix" · '; e,d. rappel. . re / h'10':,:, at the belaus s'in,ce "~,af~,y' climber» rappelled before the last Cl~UX loa.. iered l]L ~~] as [ar as he could [. Because 0':,:1:'the l]L [~Jlt Pit'c:[h'l ,P ro tectio n, [fa ilures Glen, a lmost l~,ea ched the bela Y' ledqe. John. tied Glen, qif to his b,elay' deuice and tossed him their second ~~o:p,e" tt}ith, a [figu]~,e ,eig,h,t on, a big,h,t tied Of~, the end untl» a loc,kin,g carabiner clipped to it. Glen, clipped this' to his harness b,elay' loop and then clipped the ~~o:p,e into the n"ea~~,es,t piece qf lead protection. he could reach. Glen, tt}aS able to o ne-hatuiedbj a co d: P":, iece'fi"0':.:, b a .:, / '0":.:, h' P":, ~ t' t.h' co d: ,:,P":, ,:, / e' U ..~ ig:g: le i Of~, a Mu,n,tel~ hitch. b,elay' and sllou}ly' released the lead b,elay' line, as G:.le n~m:'" ~g: ht tl» co nd/ l~O':,:,p":"e',' tl» tl» m~ pieces held. John. released the lead l~o:p,e" and continued to louier Glen. to the b,elay' ledqe. On, the ledg,e he tied Glen, in, and started treatinq his injuries. Glen. tt}aS dazed but helpfu]. ,A:ftel~ a slcno tandem rappel. John. decided to louier Glen, to the n"ext anchor and haue him U'.. h' ~ h' ~,~p":, rappel. fi" h' .imise'~lf." Tl» P":, c a [e:' u'.. ~[~' ~ C~ip":, 'e:fficfen,t but s'nll someiohat slcno and it u}as' g,effin,g dark. Th"ey' luui/ to site h' b. to tarui / e 'm:'" l~~p":,p":"e:, ,~[~, fi"o':,:,tl» b.:,0':,:,~O':.:, P":, itc h' s'if~,ce th"ey' U},el~,e louier an,gle and John. needed to support Glen, n d h' is i rie ,[~' A' t' t.h' a st l~~p":,p":, sto ~O': e,~ ,:, h' h' is g: lo~ ,:, .. do tt}n, in, haste and th"ey' bleui au}ay'[. The clouds he luui noticed
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:f [. ~,~ [. [. :f ,ea~~lle~~ a srorm. HI e gl,a':/d th",I"ey' n Im st b ~c:[ ~ ~ P":, ~c:[ ,,~h' re tl» h' [~'O':.:, ,e:''x,' vo t Iie L~l, 110:.:, ,K, to tl» l,tt., John bund l" led At' the bottom 0':.:1:' the l" L~l,l, the ,e:' tvo c lo tl» and / rain g: e -ar tl» 'x: h'.ad/ and / h' Il,., 'd: / ,h'.im to a pe ,l" Ite re ,d. [~pr":, 0':.:, tl '0·':.:, h' l,, ,I h' i / ~,e:,ift:' it Ih' a te d: fi" 0':.:, 0':,:, d. b.: 0':,:, re ' / / d h tk: [. the : m:'" [·le t th ro n«d/ t / ,¥J '0':,:, ' '0':,:, ru [. 0':.:, h [. h eudl ~m:'" lip":, call [fOl~ help, Local search and l~,es'cu"e mobilized and th"ey' used a sohee! litter to transport Glen, to the ambulance at the ad/ h' ad/ l,L~ tl» late ht
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Glen chose to lead a, hard pitch, late in the afternoon after a.

Ions day in a. remote settmz. Perhaps he could have worked to [iLll [iLll, s .. \'n~' sh s g'e ..'\t be.. tte g:':"e·.'\'9 P 1'9C,": e·.'\'"1If'1Y1Ie·.'ts an d ertain 1'},,7· u ld n t h ave tru ste.. d h<IS highest placement, After the accident John handled the situation 'v·eryr CO'H1,P eten tly, He imp rovis ed a, system (that was creative and backed 'u,p,: to [iLll Glen back to the belay ledae. He aet ,[. C): [iLll modified h<IS descent systems to balance speed and comfort, John 0 rzanized the res cue to minimize external involvemen t. [iLll .., settina to the bottom of the cliff and makins sure Glen was [iLll [iLll [iLll comfortable and stable before heading for help,
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and 110t incidents as serious as the one described above+like realizing rnidrappel that the Jrope ends are hopelessly uneven OJr needing to assist a. partner through a, ch all enging section because that peJrSOll lacks experience OJr has a, minor injury, These situations call be solved with ease and efficiency bey' e'H1,p1oying a, variety of simple techniques and tricks of the trade. kf II h · 1 ib emur fe'racture. concussion. b::"JrO, {ell Jr11 is. Th arurru.. :y<:/the "~fe' hanging fJr0 'H1,a, wall 2[.]000 feet ·u.p,: dark with a. lightning storm [.] approaching' rescue experience is not the norm for the majority of 'U,S. That said, a. simple snafu call quickly turn into a. full-blown e'H1,eJr[g:e:nc}/'if it is 110t handled quickly and COrreetly. Cold. wind. weather. imp ell dill !P"' dark, altitude, and human error, compounded by a, simple glitch (or a. serious accident) call quickly result in a, dO'\1J.1L,\Ta.Jrdp,:iral of hvnothermia. s ,J~,o!l,o!l frostbite. J dehydration, OJr mistakes made out of exhaustion. Run back thr 0ugh the incident described above and imagine h.O'\T the evening might have unfolded differently if John OJr Glen had at a:n}/' point panicked, thereby losing the ability to effectively PJrOblem-solve 011 the spot; OJrif they forgot a:n}/' of the basic rescue skills they successfully used to safely extract thems elves fJr0 'H1, the situation, This well-managed acciden t could have quickly turned into a. cascade of follies with perhaps a, [g:ri'H1,'H1.eJr outcome.
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cd'" 'm"e~~g,en,cy',Pro ce :/u]~,eSl fe' 0 rm the orzanizati te 0 rgamzational If" rarnewo r 1 \:we use to deal with a:n}/' critical situation, Cli.m,bi.n,g ~~Self- Rescue focuses 011 the technical skills and improvised thinking needed to effect a. rescue with all emphasis 011 backeountrv settinzs. ~ but it , ~].J [iLl] ]S certainly worth taking a. 1001{ at the larger foundation underly <in,g:technical rescue. You 'nla:y' 1(00,\7 e\l'entjl rope trick ill the book, but unless 'yo'u, can incorporate '}/o·u.r technical skills into the b],g:g:er picture, 'yo'u,r tricks will not do rnuch good (and 'nla:y<:/ un the risk of makina[iLl] the situation even worse), The r [. fo 11 win[iLl], step s will help vou oraanize the rescue, ~ thereby help ina 0 !P"' , .J [iLl] , [iLl] to produce a, calm and efficient operation, N10t all these steps are pertinent to e\l'eryr situation, though they are all worth considerma . [iLl]
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· I · "all a.h eac and prepa.re (h ~e,e e'"F· ~e lt e e ~]ve P Sh~:: ,el' ,.. pJrllOr P .a:n'nIn,g: PI d p reven ts poor p erfo rmanee) Assess the scene (safety for '~>'·O·U".l res cuers,,il and the other !L..) .J,il patient) Initiate first aid if :necessa.Jrj/· Make a, plan
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logistically and men tally) if '}!'O·U. are prepared for it. Planning ahead and preparing (also one of the seven Leave No Trace principles) are of ·U.tH1.06t importance, on 'e"dav'<' outi " ,,:' 'g"': or Ea'}"l' outm rnontth-lona'"' exnedi · on 'g expedrhon some 'VVb"" ett er h ":". ": initial research and basic knowledae will P av off if thinas [iLl] [iLl] p'O [iLl .J ,'," '0'" '0'"U ,',," j":' , c",1iJj ,1iJj j. 'VVb' ":' hould '~ro'"'U . ""' II ]if 'y'"'0' h"",1iJj'''!i:]''e'''M"rr'l ,d ]· I 'e"'M"rr'l'1IfIip"e"'n'" at ,1iJj ' / "'U ,1iJj 'e"'""C",1iJj 'e" [iril '" 'c"j '~l' '"'"" ,.. trailhead? 'VVb.O should '}!'O'U. call if 'Y'o'u, need technical rescue · assis'tance ~ ~;'
Self - res cue ]S rnuch easier (b oth.
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and ca.nrryr with '}!'O'U. iH1,p0 rtant local numbers (emergency services ['~1,1,'][., P olice, local search and rescue [iLll.J ,"';,1 ,~, d" · h Id" I d" (S~AR') p'nr0 'U,P,:[., 'H1,e:':::tea I . f act·1·· ~",',:, ':,].: rtses. fri d"s wr ,0 cO'U ..:'::: rene a. rtenc ,,[iLll , hand), Leave a. COP'}!' of '}!'o'u.nr itinerary (route description and
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estimated Jr etu rn information) with fa.'H1,1l1}/· OJr friends; consider whether 'yo 'U.Jr route description references geographical features that ,\1jII be recognized and understood bey' non-climbers. ' c' ' c'. . ]S .(1n,gl C' neec"C c'd .' .'" AJ so c "c der. " c' c "Cc'.C'd C' 'c d ,"_ , 'unc"c er .. PIan'c a" h eac"C anc"C pJrepa.Jre C c',..· pa.c,C'" 1 ·"c" c' allY'c' ""' "c c'.c'd ecC supplies in the event of all e'H1,eJr,g:e:nc}/·. ,A, first-aid kit should be C C C 1 ·d ifi · carriec ~'even ]1 rt ]S just a, JrO,II.. 0 f' tape a11:':d SO'H1.e ,g:a,'u,ze pa,:':::d s. :: C Y1I ..c\ c, 1IfIie e.. si .. .. .. :·U.1: P C H o:P e..C\f" ,I ,ly 'y.'cC 'U." h:..: ave '9 ' 1If'1o:1IfIie co' 1If'1Y1Ip:C\h"cc\'n~c ve \ oneC\].n '}'c<:/Oc'IfIi '9 c1,,' atC c. ·U. ,, <>"Oc' · t h ,e biase 0 f' th cI· b,,""OJr m YOU,Jr car not too f'ar a,,\ T[j'aJ',,][_:'. R..escue ie JH1. c:: ,g:ea.Jr IS important as ,\TceII (though in this book we try to demonstrate h.O'\T to effect a. rescue with little ext Jra. [0] e a. r): it is !p"' [. ~ certainly nice to have at least the basics presented in the " EC~. uJP'H1.ellt " section Iater In th J· ch apter, · · ~CS ~C .::uq'
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Before 'J I'O'U. dive into anv JreBC'U,e,., ~ make sure the scene IS safe for ~ J 'y>"'0'U, and the P atient, If there are threats to 'J I'O'U.Jr life ("e.z., 1006e < ~ [0].., rock, lightning, avalanche), 'y>"'0'U, should make a. decision that < [0 [Ol~ [. does not create more P atients. This 'H1.a:~1' mean waitine for the , J [0] .. d · situation to ch anze anc not helnirna 'J~I'O'U.Jr pc:artner IH1.'H1,e:':::di at e, Iv. a. ~c [OJ ~ce, .p,: [0] ., t ' J.., difficult yet imp ortant choice. If the scene IS unstable (" .z.. there e [OJ.., C ']1' -.'. d · dC d d H1,a.y b e a. seconcc rounc 0 f' JrOC, 1f a",II Jrea,c.,,} to "" ispatc he)',""~' h.. a,ps C peJr,
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without stopping the action to create a, plan, This constant · · I · 11 [iLl] ""a.",". ell nl0t1011 call b e eetrc e[.]t h [iLl h rt ca.n a..SO ~U.]c,\: .Y<' b d' ""e P'O .., ...0U,P't.. f ace d with a. rescue situati '::: · h a situation, stop anc rna 1 a, PIan, Th .e "stop " d re ,~' does 110t have to be 1011P"[., ut the PIan should be thorough,.., [iLl]~, b [iLl otherwise '}/O·U. run the risk of wasting time and e:neJr[gj/' with
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Once 'yo'u, formulate a. plan, it helps to make it verbally clear. ," ,'," T · I d' , ,', ue II h Th at ]S~] you, ,\ t:",OU.,"'" b"ie ,a.bI to tell someone e,I se wr" at }OU. h av e ,. ,'., [ .'. , ,', ,',' T -" d' ·11d' d one,~ wr-" at y<' h d' · [iLll~ OU, are ",,0]11P'[., ane , wThat vou '\11 .. ",,0 a.ftc rer t h ~ .. J ...a,t[.] followed by why it is a, good plan over other possibilities. 'We recommend talkins the PIan out even if there is 110 011e there to [iLl] , hear it. This should 110t make 'yo'u, feel like 'yo'u, are adding sudden insanitv to the list of thinas that are [iLl] [iLl] '\TJrOl1P": by p"oinp" J [iLl] [iLl]~ · · · dI · ver b a.I·.1ZJn[gl} our PI an you, are cI art·i)' \'J~n[gl\,That i Jra.p],,'"..y spee","d]n[gl , -" at ]S .~ thro ugh '}/O·U.Jrhead, Taking the time to justify it over other options also helps 'yo'u, explore other possibilities. If 'yo'u, realize hil 11· [iLl] · h 't ie f' · d anoth er [iLl], d Ope:· P"00:'::: t1011 wnue ta .. {111P"rt tt ,JrO'U,P't' d 011't b a,1rare to ~'.[.] [iLl h .., :'::: flex '~:/O·U.Jr' 1all [.] tho ugh make sure it all fits to [iLl] P .., aether b efo Jre J [iLl executing it. Talking out the plan can be done with the Patient as iLl iLl, , well,
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thro ugh a. difficult cr·ux or exiting dO'\1J.1La. route to esca.pe all imp ending thundersto rm, TIle simple and straightfo rward solutions are what we are striving to help with ill this book. Th.0 ugh we spend time in this "Emergency, P nroeedures' section talkins ab out the big-p, ieture [iLl] - [iLl] [iLl] framework, this same framework call and should be pared dO'\1J.1L and applied to specific components of a:n}/' situation 'yo'u, firid yourself ill. For example, sa:}/' while climbing a. rnultipit ch route 'yo'u,nr partner has taken a, bad lead fall and ]S knocked unconscious. The e'H1,enr[g:e:nc}/' procedures pnrocess can be imp lemen ted fo nr each staze of the overall res cue: reachins[iLl] 'y<:/o'u,nr , [iLl] , partner, ~ safely des cell dill [iLl] the route,~ evacuatina yourselves to !p"' [iLl] further care fnr0 'H1. the cliff base, Each stage will have its 0'\1J.1L microplan with unique and sp ecific details, [I]d ..e 1· hh 'Ontsl:::. e hI']' P[I]rn 'H1,a.cln[g: 'yo'u,nr PIan, rst assess wr ett er '}/o·u. can handle the situation 011 '}/o·u.nr0'\1J.1L or if '}/O·U.should consider asking for outside help fnr0 'H1.a. rescue team or fnr0 'H1.others in the immediate vicinity. If '}/o·u. are able to execute the res cue 011 'yo'u,nr o '\1J.1L[.]formulate a, PIan and aet crackinal .., ,[iLl] [iLl] If vou need outside help' [~] decide on the 'H1,06t effective means J of contact: Usins a, cell phone? Sendius a. rnessenser?[iLl] Leavins [iLl], [iLl] [iLl] 'yo'u,nr patient and heading out 011 'yo'u,nr 0'\1J.1L? Before involving others 'y<>"O'U, should assess the situation. ~ evaluating what ]S wrona [iLl] [iLl] and what '}/O·U.hink should be done, and then 'yo'u, should make a. t careful decision about who 'yo'u, think call help, Chapter 9 [g:oes
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into detail about getting outside help, Hopefullyyou will be able to take care of things 011 'yo'u.nr 0'\~11L~] but ICllLO,\T here and who to turn to ill case '}/O·U. o need help, w d There are SO'H1.e excellent resources for rescue O·U.t there. and kno wing h.O'\T to access the one 'yo'U. need will help complete this step of enlisting outside help quickly, :111the United States, calling 9/:,1',1,1, will connect 'y<>'o'u, a, local to disp ateher. The disp atelier will take info rmation fnr0'H1.'yo'u, and · · b Ianee, contact t h .e appropriate P'U,bI·JC assistance ( ::'" "e.[g:.~l a.'H1,::,,'U, sheriff,..;. finre dep artment, ..;...;. S,AR., backeountrv rangers) . , "'"'J [0 'With, this call 'yo'u, are requesting help and when the diispatc htee unit arrrves tt ,e}/' '\11.. ta Ire cr .a,nr[g:e0 f' tt ,e situation, d · · h ·11 h he situati This assistance IS [0] aenerallv J welcome and help,~[O ful, tho ugh .. h ,,0C~t, assistance avaua bI .e[.] I· ·1 ",',.., d epee ne'· [0] on J vour situation aned' tt ,e I , e d tna 'yo'u, 'H1,a:y'realize '}/O·U. could have completed the rescue a. different d' ,\ a.y. F or ex a.H1,P,Ie: v OU.are a. bezi ""e[g;Jlnnenr I· b anc you,nr partner c JH1. ier accidentally drops the nrope while threading the nrope for rappel d' hd at t h .e anch..ors atop a, v ery ,..arc ' sport cI· b",'. H' e enc s U.p stuc I{;] JH1, hanging fnr0'H1. an anchor 7,5 feet ·U.p a, 30o-foot cliff. You ICllLO,\T 'yo'u,nr expert climbing buddy IS supposed to Sh.O'\T 'U,P ill all hour II· I Id' ",e, a,n d h cou .."" h I,p } OU. out, biut you, ca ... 91,1, msteacd' . Th'" ,"e I ,"e ,.oca .. S,AR. crew Sh,O'\TS ·u.p with tell people and more 011 the '\Ta:y'. They place five bolts at the top of the cliff to nra,p down and pick 'yo'u,nr friend off the anchor, The lle'\TSpa,penr writes another article T .. ,'.. ·b d rnterv J~e,\TStt ,e I · h ioca I I d' owner ,\"h ,0 a,b OU.t cnra.Zi} cIJH1, iers ane i iane
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again questions whether he should a110 '\T climbing 011 his property, Certainly this 11San overdramatization, but this book 11Sabout personal resourcefulness, 'We are not advocating that '}/O·U. take · d S if 't ,~' d1 · · matters ]11tO 'yo'U,Jr 0'\1J.1L h ,a11:'::: ]1 'yo'u, can't h ,a11:'::: a, situation, biut ,~' ..e we are saying 'yo'u, should take matters i11tO 'yo'U,Jr 0'\1J.1L hands that 'yt,<>"O,':: h and le 'U, 'I' · ' It ]S wort. hmentioni cOl that wit h d,e n,zte ,excep,'":"UOf~"., 'H1,a1IY<:/S'~"'R'I"" ~''H1.entr 0 11111 ~' · ~'. fi"· ,. . P" ': / ~",A <' teams are not comprised of technical climbers. Ideally they 'H1,a:y' have a. few sp,: ecialized high-angle rescue technicians. ..;but this 11S , [0 [0 110t always the case, Realize too that safety systems built by organized rescue teams are a. bit different than the improvised d' ddites; ~",A <'",, teams 'S'~"'R'I rescue systems accepta bI f OJr '}/O·U. a11:':::'yo'U,Jr b::""'U,:'::: ie :'::: typically work with a, higher 'H1,a.Jr,gj11 of safety, which call 'H1,ea11 more cOl ~rea,Jr and additional lines. This does 110t 'H1,ea11 one 10rH1, of rescue 11Sbetter OJr worse than another, rather that it 11Simportant as a. climber rely<in,g: on outside services to be aware of what that rea .rstiea ..:}/' .. E' · h verv rareexcention i a. rescue just '\Tentj!' rare exception ]S I· · II 'H1,a:y' entar·1 'W't'"""t,',"]t.~', like ill the movies; do 110t expect helicopters diving in and whisking the injured party off a. cliff face, An important resource not to overlook (particularly in the example earlier of the dropped Jrope at a. sport crag) might be other climbers at the cliff, There are plenty of documented cases 1· he situation worse...; brut tt ere h I" o f oversea ..O'U,S exp,: erts 'H1,a.ClnP" tt ,e situati ,[Ol ." are plenty more cases of Good Samaritans helping others O·U.t of
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a bind, Th.IS ]S a. judgment call. Maybe that day at the cliff '}/O·U. see SO'H1.e people that 'yo'u. leo0,,7 are experienced big-wall climbers. able to handle this situation, SO'H1.e random folks that 'yo'U. have seen in the local climbing ,gJ7H1. a. few times 'H1.a:}/· be not the place to tU.ro.
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, c',, ,'" 'c ,c', ,c', Thec', reseue i, ':c ,',c ' ,',c'''''1'c', 'c' :c ·1} OU. ,'" I· c' :c rt. 'c c ,Ic' :c d ta.. e a, Cc',c'c ' rt, ,no 11 ",,0U.t· . :c ,',c ,e rescue ]S not 0\' er until 'c"/"',c'c c ean u,p anc,'"c ',Ic,,' c b, · · · matter h .0,,7 SIH1,P, I,eor serious the si ,esituation, This is i us ]S important. c ""'~'I"""'" Relax a'ne'd" ""'",,c], ,'I'C c c breror-e "'~""I'" t~ll" c ~Il" "C ,¥\"_,,,"""C'C,'" eated ,I,C Di..e 31""( ,regroup CO,[I, ,.Il[I,UI[I,g'll OU. crea' ec a. little system to pull 'y'o'u,nrpartner 'U.p through a, crux section of the · A1 h .. cI.IH1,bi. Alt h .O'U,P'; certain 1 not a, ". » serious rescue, '~dc on ,t [JI., :'::: rust [iLI,J 1auneh 'U.p the next pitch; there is still valuable info rmation to be sained that will make vour clirnbin [iLl 'H1.0nre effieien t. Check in and P" [iLl] ,J make sure he wan ts to con tinue (0 nr understands why '}I'o'u.both. need to continue) and discuss h,0,,7 'Y'o'u, might make the system better if 'Y'o'u, need it two pitches 'u.p on the hardest part of the route. Another example: You just spent the last fiftee:n minutes yelling and doina nrop,: tuas to let vour Partner leo0,,7 he was on e [iLl [iLl] [iLl ,J, belav and could start climbina. Talk about the communication ,J [iLl ~ra.p,: >"0 aet back toaether (" ven if 'y< 'U,are at the top of the e >"0 [iLl] , when 'y< 'U,[iLl [iLl]. climb), It will help, [iLl areatlv the next time the situation aris es . [. ,J Tr-a,[,'111 sfer th', ,:c", Pa t~1l11e"[''1IIt to''c I ~O' I,JD' c eo '[''1IIe' , "1'"~lth' h'I'llgc h' .'c"".', JD' c ed.. 1'11c"'a'l e e"r , .",~ .LI.,~,Il.ic"".' :c"" .LI..' ~:c :c",:cI, .LI.,:c" 'c", c' :cc>'~
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request a, helicopter rescue for SO'H1.e severely injured climbers. Twenty S,AR.team members respond and execute the rescue, ,As1{ them to help '}/O·U. clean 'U,P the area when done (if they have 110t already) OJr organize a, local climber cleanup, Evahnate. Find O·U.t what caused the accident and let 'yo'U,Jr climbing friends 1(00,\T so they do not make the same mistake, If 'yo'u, have been part of a, more serious incident, posttraumatic stres svnd 1IfIi0,'::'\ C,'"'n" b':,'\, '9 "'Fr:e, '\ n:/' 1IfIie, 1e,[0 ti ate'\ aft 'e, '\f" fec'",.iS',' :'",', '\ e, '9 e '\'91 '\P]· '\1IfIie, ,',t e,e ~o J J .iIl[""
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']'f' bIJ d' ,", you" have snent time outsi d'e you, h,3.\'e PJrOb",,3,",', h,e3.Jr"" 0 f' t h ,3.\'e spent tnne outsrc ...e Ten Essentials: ten items '}/O·U.should not head off into the wilds without, These include 'H1.o,p and cO'H1,pa.ss~] sunglasses and suns creen, ~ ext Jr0, clothina. [Ol~ headlarnp 0 Jr flashlight, ~ first- aid , [0 s'u,p,: lies,.] P fiJre starter and matches '., Jrep,: air kit and to ols,.]ext Jra. food,~ ext Jr0, water,~ and emerzencv shelter. However. .., considerma [0] [O].J the necessity of travelina[0] light and fast 011 0, route, .., e'H1.eJr!p"'ellcy<:/ [0 [0] supplies realistically ,\1jII'VO,ryr greatly depending on the distance fJr0 'H1.car to route and fJr0 'H1, car to medical facilities, the tvne of !L.J'r route vou are climbill [0]" (single pitch,~ 1011!p"' !p"' .J [0, [0] multipitch, , ~ OJr remote ')'.,anc the typ e 0 fenvi dh I, · o"p,:me route:[. ~, ., environment 'y<>'O'U, cI· bi [0] III are .IH1, nna · (des ert, is elated waterfall ice) and '}/o·u.Jrfamili a.rity with the area.. Here are SO'H1.e lightweight e'H1,eJr,g:e:nc}/'items worth considering dep ending ·u.pon 'yo'u,Jr 0 bj eetive:
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As mentioned in the Introduction. rescue, like climb ill [iLl [., ]S !P"' Ope: to 'H1,allY<:/ en interp retations, svstems, and opinions. Th.0 ugh as J iLl individuals we 'H1,a:y'think O·U.Jr\Ta:y' ]S the best and only '\Ta:y'~]it ]S ' neither, As the saying [iLl] .., there are 'H1,allY<:/ '\Ta:y<>"s skin a. ca,t. to [iLl] aces. The 'H1,06t important thing ]S that '}/O·U. xecute these skills safely e and successfully without injuring '}/O·U.OJr 'yo'U,Jr partner, :111 each chapter we describe a, safe and acceptable method of applying a. skill. Then we present additional options and ellCO'U,Jra,[g:e improvisation ill the scenarios later in the book. 'V\lh.1l1e discussing each skill we cover CO'H1,'H1.o:nterms and language ·U.S d subs eq'u,e:n tly ill the ill tro duetion of other skills. e FOJr that reason each skills chapter should be read and learned ill order, if o Illy' so '}/O·U. o 110t 'H1jlSSterms that 'H1.a:}/· undefined d be ill later skill instruction, Skills are ordered in a. logical progression 10Jr learnina, coverina the necessarvJ and easiest [iLl] [iLl [iLl] ~]
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beauty (and danger) of improvised self-rescue ]S that '}/O·U. are relying 011 yourself and 110 one else to ca.Jrntjl out a. safe and successful rescue. The improvisational element refers to the fact that no one,~, esp,: eeiallv '~:/O·U.,~] , eets a. need for rescue in the first JJ ~ exp,: place Therefore fancv ('a"nd exp,:' ensive) search.. and rescue ,0 "C_, , ~re'[lJr ,.C_'e' e ," C_" e'J eeC-"' " e ",C_, 'e', C_"" ," 'e' '," 11l1{e P:MPs (fl~u;s'i,k-mi"n,di.n,g ,pu,lley's])~l brake bars, OJr litter baskets are left O·U.t of the equation, ,1\11skills taught ill this book use the same items tvoieallvJ found on a, clirnbin [0], raelc a. Jrop,:e,.] !P"' LJ'r' ..; I· ,Ol~ de de s ~· II de eara bimers,~ S,.Ill!P"'S,.] anc CO rc . ~>u,Jre,.] items 1·1re P 'U,, evs anc ,.1 ,J ascenders are certainly helpful and call make a, b],g: difference; · · but H1,06t 0 f' us de 0 not typicalIIJ C3.Jrntj! t h at equipment on 3. ... single-day free climb, 'We will touch 011 the use of SO'H1.e more sp,:ecialized [0] sear (e' 11l1{e P ullevs and mecha f~,ica as'cen,d,e~~s]'):but ill l , J [. '., ~ aeneral. ~ instruction will fo C'U,S 011 SiH1,p,:ler to ols ("i!p"'. 1,-1, Sh,O'\TS f [0] [0] basic [0] [. gear), It ]S important to understand the added fOJrCeB introduced ill rescue situations and the limitations of climbing ,g:ea,Jr. This type of information ]S highlighted in sidebars throughout the book
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and ill appendix B~] ear Specifications. Don't just assume that G b ecaus e a. Pieee of sear ,\TcO fo nr climb in [iLl it will automatically rks z. ,[iLl] be adequate for all rescue applications, Below is a. list of [iLl] sear we a,SS'U,'H1.e each climber will have (" r o each climbing party if specified). This list is an ideal; the reality ]S that not all climbers (especially the follower) will choose to have all of these items on h.. or her harness at all times. The is 'H1,0nre 'yo'u, learn the 'H1,0nre '}/O·U. ill be able to imp rovis e and make w do with what '}/O·U. ave, h
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· ~rld t ('6' p'9 . \<:/ 0"'['le\ p]'n"[iLl!' 'e\ ,,' :',.Jl m''f' [. l~O':11\'l'e'" pe\1IfIi rty ,1:;'0 6' 0 'e\"e\1IfIiP1, '" 0 '-2"']0'0 '" "''"J::'" :" '" ft) six nonlockina carabiners [iLl] · SIX, I.oc,1· {lll[g: eara bi uners forty feet of 7-'H1.llIliH1,etenr a,eeessO][j/' cord cut into five lengths SO'H1,ewe b bms fo nr creatine runners [iLl] [iLl] Tubular b elay device (like an ,AT,e) U,Lll.A.- rated harness U,Lll.A.- rated helmet
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system for alpine and ice endeavors. These skinny n\TO- ~ope systems are lighter, call reduce ~ope drag, and provide a. g]~ea.tdeal of versatility, Leading on twin ~opes involves clipping both. ~opes through all pieces of placed g:ea.~. Half -~ope technique involves alternating which ~ope is clipped through the g:ea.~.With. either system, leaders are belayed on both. ~opes simultaneously, Per manufacturers' recommendations, half and twin ~opes are meant to be used in tandem, never by' themselves, There are rlO C'U.t nd dried rules for incorporating half and a twin ~opes into improvised rescue, Although the skinnier yO'U.~ ~ope is the less ideal it is for rescue, there are plenty of other g:ood reasons for using skinny ~opes. The biggest risk is the amount of wear and tea.~ a. half or twin ~ope call handle compared with a. sing:'t1e ~ope. If lowering :,'., raising :,'., or counterbalance rappelling, take particular note if y·O'U.~ ~opes are running over ally' sharp edges . Use yO'u,~ best judgment to p~o blem-solve and play it safe,
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Lenath and diameter ]S left to P ersonal P reference. tho ugh [iLl [iLl considering this book focuses on single- nrope technique the nrope
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chosen should be rated as a. single Jrope. :Mal.IY· climbers prefer 6o-'H1.eteJr JrOpes 10Jr the versatility it a110'\18 ill route selection and Jra.pp elling, 'We will often refer to a. second Jrope~l although it is 110t llecessa.ryr to purchase one simply 10Jr practicing p'u.nrpo£es. Two Jropes are needed 10Jr rappelling 'H1.a:n}/· routes. You call save ,\Tcei,g;h.t and 'H1.o:ne}/· bey' buy <in,g: a. second rappelling Jrope that is either of s'H1.a11eJr diameter OJr that is static instead of dynamic, (Be aware there are specific precautions that 'H1.·U.st be taken when h:<in [iLl] two Jrop,:es of differen t diameters to [iLl] P" aether .C): J , [.
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,1\11 U]1\1\,- a,pp roved varieties of nonlo eking carabiners are '9 C,":C,": e,,'\p: tab,Ie,,'\ ,'t i~ 0,':: n e,,'," ~'9 Irrj1"<>" to '91l"~T'9'Y"<>'~ erve ~I· 'U, 0,':: 'U, i e,,'," nt ces n cc p d
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Large pearabiners are ideal 10Jr rescue applications, However 'H1,allY<:/ climbers scoff (with aood reason) [. at the idea, of earrvina[iLl] "[iLl] ~] .J six lockina P ears:~ altho ugh ideal 10Jr smooth JrOP,: manaaement e [iLl] , [iLl ,[iLl]

'd ie ,a.y , , :" anc""': b""' ",,1,1" '","/ anc h""'"" cons' rue'ti ,'""' th"",""","/are h""' or ,'""'""':",t "" ,'""101.l~1". .ey ,ea.\1)1.. ']'f" '","/,'""'" ,\7'1" ' :" t t,,"" ,", } ou "',' all" "0 keep, it light,~ trv a combination of lighter '\Tcei~i'h,t'.lsmaller Iockina [iLl ~] J [iLl [iLl .., [iLl carabiners and pea,nrs. Opposite and opposed nonlocking carabiners can always be used if 'yo'u, are stuck without ell 0ugh lockers ("fi~'.1,-2'):. "[iLl
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Recommended cord and webbins lenzths follow, 'We do not [iLl [iLl recommend that '~I'O·U. ~]J all of thes e lenzths at all times. Thes e carrv .J [iLl] lenzths are [iLl areat to P ractice with and. after realjzins what ]S [iLl] [iLl] ·I · ·· · H1,06t essential to "~I.~llOU.S situations, }OU. can C3.JrIrrj! various combinations of them dep en din [iLlJ.J on '~I'O·U.Jr !p"' route and conditions, , 'With, a, knife the lonser cords can become whatever Ienath '~I'O·U. [iLl] [iLl .J need in an emerzenev, And with P ractice the shorter ones will be [iLI].J ' useful for eV'eIrrj!'situation,
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Cordelettes are lengths of nylon accesso Irrj!' cord (also called Perlon) at least 6 millimeters ill diameter (there are also a. few sp,:eeialtv cord materials 011 the market for co rdelettes)[. . Lenath , LJ [iLl] can varv but they are [iLI].J aenerallv at least 1,'~feet lonz. If used for ~] J [~ [iLl] linkinz Pieees ill a. multidirectional aneho r.~ a. co rdelette is often [iLl] , at least 20 feet long, 'VVh.a,t we call a. l~,eS'ClJe loop is a. short loop of 7-'H1<iIliH1.eteJr

· d ·h " cor d tree with a FI" · h b d or dO'U,bI,e fi herman 'A i""\., [4,-fe' oot uerrusn ienc :'::: ::"", .sr s. length of 7-'H1,1lIliH1.etenrcord tied off with a. bend will yield a. 1,.,5 foot long loop that 'H1.a]{eB a. 11]Ce length for tying most friction. hitches:.~ the resultina[iLl] excess loop 11S fairlv short after it 11S tied 011 , .J the line, See appendix B~] ear Specifications, for more information, G
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Two Pieces. [4/,feet (" 1,22 C'H1,'):each, tied with a, double overhand (aka double fisherman's) lCIlLOt we call thes e res cue ( loops (" L'):; us aze detailed throughout the b 0 ole'): R [iLl] [iLl [. One piece of cord as long as 'yo'u, are tall plus 6-1,2 inches (for a, u}ais,tPrusik, detailed in chapter ,5~l Ascending) ,' d twice 'yo'u,nr h,eI[g;rt ('""or a. fie, oor r Jf~USlt('l D-. [.~ ... 0'. pIece 0 fe' core jwi """ me · ,~" · h f" detailed in chapter ,5~]Ascending; call also double as a, shorter cordelette) One piece about 1,,5 to zo-plus feet ([4,60 C'H1.) (for a. cordelette)
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appendix B, Gear Specifications, for descriptions of the differen t webbing materials available, :M allY' climb ers prefer lighter ,\Tcell[g;h.t 1.1,,/1,6- inch, web bing fo Jr slings CO'H1.p ared to 1,-inch tubular webbing, TIle type of route 'yo'u, are climbing will typ 11Cally' dictate what assortment of slings '}/O·U. decide to take, B JrI'n!P"lt·11!P"'a. few hand -tied slinas (,' op,: P os ed to s e'\1J1i runners)[. IS as , , [iLl [iLl] [iLl]" '9 g:' 0,':: ]. ea th" ,v},,<>,' e,,'\ ea ~y,,<:/to adju st ea ~},,<>"o th" read '911f1iO,'::nd :,'0,':: d d t:1I '911f1i t 'U, natural features, and can be C·U.t 'U,P and used for creating anchors at rappel stations.
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throughout the book specifically' relating to anchors. Protection placement and anchor- building techniques are not covered, See ec ed R':]" e n tinu iLl' th.."Ce,c\ R':] c' o''1IflY1I''1IflY1Ie,c\'['Idc':'':Cc'.ad ins l and C"C'Oc':: .]·'[~.I[P, Ed uc '9tl· o'['1 ," Cc'." c [iLl 'c' c, '. id a,ppe:n dirxes fe' or rc eas.
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C ·[iLll fof II ie ier B e,avs can b con f izure d':::0ff 0 a, cI·JH1. b 'S h arness as weu as I directly off of an anchor, Both. situations are covered throughout the book and we will also touch ·u.po:n the specifics of belaying ith ·I wit ~c.a. nre di rectiona ... ':::t C "1' , .',~ c I· b hei d he GeneraiII J ~'ieac c JH1. iers b I ,a.y t... rr seconc 0 ff" 0 f t... anch..or Id ie e in [iLll p-'ood-q,~:c,~·u.al]tyc<>"' rnultip itch, rock, Belaying ]S done off of the [iLll harness in 'H1.06t other climbina situations. It is alH1.06t alwavs [iLll easier to effect a, rescue if the belay is on the anchor already, but that ]S not justification for belaying off of a, marginal or poorly C C .. d posrtsone d':::anc h~c r. 'c .ases can bie 'H1.a,:':::e thatt It ]S sa.f' er to bieI ,a:y' o CC ~c it i a one "Ta:y' over another in different situations (see appendix E~] Recommended Re a, din [iLll fo nr 'H1.0 nre info rmation). Generallv, we p-' [.,J.., if' hi k [. c,:"ec [. ]S · a,SSU,H1.e t hat a, M Munter hi h or a. sec[,I, -c,:'c OC,\,.~.n,g hid ay ",ev~.ce hrtc .. 'U,sed to b"e"C\I of":( of an an ch o an d an 'y'c<>"' '9'},}' c P referred b e"C\I d ~;'!i7C1;Cc": '9'),}' ], cC c c, .. c v c,!!,c e"c\ .~ used off of a, harness. Knowledze of h,O"T to execute rescues fnr 0 'H1. [iLll all belav configurations. .., in clu din [iLll belays with a. redireetional. p-' [iLll [ ·11 Iy · .. '-. . '.. · "11" on.. merease [."1"' .. '. }our improvisational I arsenal. I '"' e no not Cc" d
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recommend belaying off of an anchor with a. traditional stitch. plate OJr tubular b,elay' deuice (like an ,AT,e) because of the upward lock-off motion these belay devices require to create all effective brake,

HO,\T to g:'::'et hands-free ]S covered in the first step of escaping a. belav, in chap ter Th.]S basically means tvina off the climber so .J L) [iLll that as the belayer/reseuer '}I'O·U. ·u.se both, hands to complete can a,task rather than maintaining a. brake hand, There will be times throughout the rescue scenarios where it ]S possible to do somethins without [iLl] aettina both. hands free filJrst. Th,]S ]S certainly [iLl] [iLll ·U.pto res cuer judgmen t. 'We recommend the cons ervative (and slower) [. a,p,: JrO ach at first,..,.J but as '~I'O·U. CO'H1,IO aet rtable with the .. P [iLl] systems it might be preferable to maintain 'y'o'U,Jr elay with one b hand and complete a, few steps with the other,
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protection, ~ with at least one P ieee maintainina[iLl] the intearitvJ of , [iLl] the whole aneho nr aaainst multidirectional P ulls [., in clu din P" [iLl] ,~[iLI] upward and sideways. " ,':,",.:','~; ILI.:, ' .. '_ ,,_' ch 0' d:; : , d Dh-eetio I,'nal'' a''n .:','~: '.:,I,'r ,n" lea Cit three At ,.',,'.'l€i,d, , . ~' soli P]·eees of" protection that are joined to create a, solid equalized anchor, senerallv.J nr sIStill [iLl] a. dO'\1I1L,\Ta,nrd,.., 'u11 tho ugh it 'H1<iP'I'h.t oriented e P" P be [iLl] [iLl [iLl to resist an upward or sideways pull in certain situations, :Maste:r poi'n,t (M P:) This 11S the term we use for the redundant, ~ equalized,~" clip-in P oint of anv.J anchor, 'We use the ,II ab breviation ":MP" when referred to repeatedly, ,l\.'tL. hor rt ]S ·I 'Sh If' '''( nen b ildi an ancr or it i P06S] ibl to co:nSC10'U,S,:Y' ,.',e' 't~ ::,,'U1 Ill[g: c ue create a. sl,h"eif--a, separate spa.ce to clip thro ugh just above the :MP that can be as redundant and effective as the :MP itself. This separate clip-in call help keep things organized and also helps keep, nrop,: s fnr0'H1,b ill dill [iLl], 'u,p,:while raisins or lowerinz. If one or P' ,e [iLl] [iLl] two nropes are weighted and moving through carabiners next to each other..., thev create friction aaainst each other and it .J [iLl] becomes harder to 'H1.O\l'e them, Physically separating the carabiners 011 the same anchor all 0 '\78 the nrope to move more freely,.., thus reducina[iLl] the loads on the anchor, Imp o~~tC1f~,t ~~ n,ote ,A, " shelf 'H1.·U.stbe equalized, and redundant; take care to clip thr 0 ugh a, section of cord corning off each piece of protection (fi[g:. 1,-3). ,1\1'\Ta:}/s keep a. carabiner clipped thr 0 ugh the :MP even
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if that carabiner ]S 110t holdina anv '\Tce]!p"i'h.t: this carabiner [iLl] .J [iLl ~ safeguards against inverting the :M P le1110t. ,A. shelf should als 0 110t e,,"," '9 n '9 n '},"<:/'"!l"~T9'y'"<:/ j.] P '9 rd ].ze th""e,,"\ nc h
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,A, res cue ]S highly situation - dep enden t. The a.cco'H1.p a:n} <in[g; charts (fi[g;s. 1,-[4, and 1,-,5) are not foolproof, but they ,\1jII help familiariae 'yo'u, with the differen t CO'H1.ponen ts of self - res cue and will help 'yo'u, visualize the rescue pJrocess. The charts are based on a. res cue situation involvina two P eop,: le. 011e beina in [JI mred. [iLl] ".., [iLl] ·· .. · .. d" IH1.PJroV]~sa.t1011 a11:'::: Because e\l'eJlIjl situation ]S 'u:n]q'u,e~l contrnuecd i .fY" t h ,0·U.[g;~" are :necessa.~j/·. Use tt ese cr arts as a, 'H1,a.p to cI art \.';:/'d" :, a11:'::: ht h h provide a, basis for '}/O·U.Jrthought PJrocess when entering a. rescue situation and as useful reminders as 'yo'u, work 'yo'U,Jr way through the scenarios ill chapter 8 of this book.

Is: ~ e gr!l)IJnd ea sie~ to reach by de$c;end[ng'?

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DeScee 'd and] free fope~.AstLefild to paliefJlt. ~~ ook~to goodlle!rlge, S~t rai~in9 ~~)t!IIIi'I. D~(~n~ to pr~IJl.Asc;;elj}.daJnti r~i$e p.atie nt.

to begin pal~i ,ca~'e~ elfrt

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Lawer ~I mbe[ to ¥OlJ~ ledge a nd h~gJirtJp.ta~ient ca re.

YES
Ro~ "Solo l~ gooo Ied~E'.Set ifrais! ng

'~~lld it be easy to set up a kn[llt· "~ssin!l $yS~~rmi(lOW' ~~ (an easil~ bt~ r:e'im'I~cl}7

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dr~be~ set S}jstem to pa S'S k n iJf~1' ,a nd 1Crl~ 11. e

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Is. i~~~sie~ to I~er Of r:appel to th~ 9 f(JUn I 'an a~ON1d?

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:111 this chapter we focus on tips and tricks for tying a. few knots · hei · common I:Y' useed f' or rescue (""h c rosen III part f' or tt err SInlp,I·· acrty and their familiarity to 'H1,ally'people). There are of course plenty of other acceptable knots. Check O·U.tappendix E for additional knot references, 'I' ]S important d fid ent · h tt It · · to b::"eCO'H1.e fie. ctent anc eont :'::: '\1Jt.~", h ,ese prot · ties so that when trouble hits 'yo'U,call concentrate 011 the epic at hand, not whether '}/O·U. tied 'yo'u,nr knot correctly, Practice tying these knots in both. hands as ,\Tce11as in the dark, This may sound silly now, but it won't the first time you're ri,g:gj11,g: a. system high on a, cliff as night falls around '}/O·U ..
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,Rig[. 2-1[. ,A, loo:p (l'e:ftJ crosses iisel] u},h,ile a bi.g,h,t (riqht) l~,e"~,aif~;S'
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,A, loop is like a full circle; the Jrope strands do CJr06S and the circle is closed, It can be tied anvwhere alons the JrOP,: . 'VVh.e:n a. J [iLl] ,e loop is in 'y<:/'o'u,Jr alm, at the sp,: ot where the strands CJr06S[~1 one P · id d' h .. d' stran d ]s co:ns]:'::: eJre:'::: the b:: ttom strancd' (agai o "a,[g;aJnst 'y'o'u,Jr h .a:n:':::,.'~'a:n:'::: ,~' d',), the other ]S the top strand (closer to '}I'O'u.Jreyes).
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'VVh.ell tvina a. lC11L0t,.] tt}ol~l(i.n,g: ,ef~,d]s the side of the nrop,: that the LJ [iLl].., : ." ,e leads to the active climber or is the section of nrope used to tie the knot, TIle s]tan,di.n,g: ,en,d]s the side of the nrop,: leadina to the e : ." ,[iLl] anchor, ~ the inactive climber, ~, or ]S simply the end that runs i11tO J
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After a, knot ]S tied. the load strand refers to whichever strand of nrop,: is activelv holdina the load (" .z., the climber). In the case of e [iLl].., ,e .J [iLl [. a, belay setup, the brake strand refers to the side of nrope breakina[iLl a. climber's fall and/or the strand that will be fed '" ," h t h ,nrou"gl a. bie1 'I' devi to rower a, c1· bier, Th" terms are 0 ft .aJ" r evice 1 t: ,', JH1, ,,ese ten used instead of workina end and standins end..., tho ugh for ease [iLl [iLl] [iLl of explanation we 'u,se both, sets of terms.
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instructions later in this chapter for tying both, the Munter and the rnule. 'Wl1e:nwe refer to the setup repeatedly, we simply use the ab breviation :MM O.
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series of hitches tied with a, cordelette: a. Prusik hitch tied with one end (and attached to the rope) and an :MMO tied with the other, Its application ]S explained ill chapter 3~1 Escaping a. Belay, Like the :M:MO~l it ]S referred to throughout the book; we · · · · hi h a,bbireviate it as P"M'MO" (S~· mstructions I ~I",\"""~[,:",,:,, i". ,,~"ee later III tt JS cr apter for tvina each hitch in this series.)[. LJ [iLl]

As the s avina [iLl es [.] "b ends [JI oin ends .,~ Examp ' les of bends i] .J [iLl !p"'0 d11Suss ed in th.11S 0 ole include the water knot. Fle'H1.11sh.end (" ka c b b a fi!p"·u.nre eight bend), and the double fisherman's. The tails of the [iLl [iLl [._., knot exit in opposite directions. These bends are generally favored for ease of ty<in and securitv once tied. P' [iLl] L)
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Hitches have to be tied around somethins[iLl] in order to maintain their form, Hitches have a. huze role in rescue and include [iLl] friction hitches used for ascendins and descendins lines. Any [iLl] [iLl] material (" 1. we bbina, co rd) routinely ·U.S ed as a, friction hitch 1 e.[.] [iLll~ " should be inspected frequently for wear due to the greeter amount of abrasion it receives. Hitches covered include the clove, :M'UIIter. rnule. klemheist. auto blo ck, P ell b erthy, Bachmann, mariner's [.] arda, and the P rU.s11}{. G
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,A, well-dressed knot IS a correctly tied knot; it does not have ~[ny' kinks or 1006e or unnecessarily twisted portions. It has also been "set ,~or snuzaec d d 0"111 with a. [iLl] d tue pc: · to I dmz. (''S"~ · h P'oO:'::: [iLl] , rror :'::: ioac · [iLl "~"ee [iLl P". [iLI"iLl 2-2.'): Dressing[iLl a. knot serves a, varietv of P,:·U.JrP,: oses: it makes the [. L) , , knot rnuch easier to vis 'U,ally' inspect and it eliminates the potential for 1006e bits to [iLl] snazzed. which might 1006e:n or aet [iLI"iLI].., [iLl undo the knot, SO'H1,e arsue that undressed kinked P ortions add [iLl] , d· he knot ". · J" u. "" unnecessarv turns, t here b::,,'y<>"ucme the knot' s e ffictenev (i e. [.] .... ,J ,[iLl nre'::: strength): others sav this 106S of strenath IS 'H1.in1rH1, and indeed al[.] [iLl J [iLl an undressed fip'·u.nre eight IS still inerediblv strona. [iLl Frictio:n [iLl [iLl J hitches in particular do not grip the nrope correctly unless properly dressed, Dressed ,KnJJts are also generally easier to untie,
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Long tails and backup knots are used by 'nlally' climbers to ' -1 h h protect a, 1 met's tal, f' nrO'H1. 1-lppln,g: tt .nro·u.,g; d' untying th knot s ~',anc te 1 as the knot is loaded and unloaded (a, pnrocess 1(11L0'\~11L as cy'clical
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and backup, s[.] ~ but there are als 0 SO'H1,e CO'H1.'H1,Oll mis conceptions ab out them .. ,A, rough guideline ]S that 1(1110t tails should be twice the length ,', ',[: [ · I of t he orisi 11 ... e onrll[g;1l11~t,,{I110t. H'· 1~[.',,',] [ I'e,\ T 'ext Jra. me h,es 0 f' tal, ·1 a..SO acts as ~l',tn[gl a a, safezuard should 'y<>"O'u,Jr1(1110t [0] snazzed. ~ and thereby, aet [0] ,[0"0] iII a,dve rten tly 100£ ened, A h 1· .. ,n, I' ew cI· bi [0 1 JH1. nna knots. S'U,C,~', as 'H1,3IIy<:/ b::"O'\~ me varrations. C311 1006e:n due to the effects of cyclical loading, These should be tied with backup 1(1110tS. Slippery hitches like the mule also ,\Ta,JrJr311t 3. backup 1(1110t. The :n3.'H1,e of these knots sa:}"li it 311; they like to slip. II d · [Ol~ · h 't","t,," knots are s·u.bi ect to eve I·lC3 .. , .03.:':::mz, bmt it ta 1res S'U,C,~',3. ater 1 ::,:11 [JI.J high 11u.'H1,beJr of pulls 10Jr the tails to slip though the knot that it ]S 110t :neCe8S3.Jrj/· to tie water 1(1110tS with backup 1(1110tS; long tails are ad e,,':'q,'::'~'u, 'I, 't ].~ '9 '''!i:l'e,,'\ntj1t,'::/d ]. ea to P e,,'\~IO,'::C,": ate g:' 0,':: d :,'0,':: d]. '9II'yt,.::/ e,,'\0,':: at th"' e,,'\ reti very least, inspect anything tied with a, water 1(1110t. Imlip":, 0':.:, l~cMl-~'Jf1Iltl 'Jf1IIO:.:, [. To avoi d red nd an '}t,.:>"·'911 kno t-tyin g:' te :,' descriptions a,SS'U,'H1.e that readers ,\1j11 dress each 1(1110t and check that each knot is tied with adequate tail length ..
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dep ending ·U.pon the circumstances. he ! ::,,'f "t',,:t.','l · , tre:n.gt:],'h. 'I' tt ,e 1 : ,:"S h knot strong::' ello'u,g:' h I' 10Jr tt ,e ]0 b~ 'W·II.. rt S. retain its strength despite the anticipated direction of pull? FOJr example, a, butterfly knot would be a. better choice 10Jr three-way loading than all overhand 011 a. bight, 'F' :aID" illl' la~1*-~r "1,"~1th' t h''e kn ot I':'e" ~ 'e' '0 '" " ' a , ' "f" tv' :rilIng' Th"'·· " ~ '.~ ' -"]CI]CI '~l ,>[1
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JresC·U.e-110 time 10Jr mistakes OJrfiddlill[g: with difficult knots. FOJr exa.'H1,p,: e. alth 0 ugh slightlv weaker than a. fip"u.Jre eight,~ a. bowline ,~ l [iLl [iLI.J [iLl] [iLl is typ 11cally' rnuch quicker to tie off around a. tree (and l1S more easily adjustable) than retracing a. fig:':: eig:I'h.t10Ilo,\T - throng :I'h ure .. "'I: re:rsati [1 )[1 'I' h 1 ·1 c d·f' t liL y' 1f)f'[ll rs tt ,e knot easr :}:. onverti·ble 1l1tO a, :,:::]1erent ue i knot OJr call it be used 10Jr a, variety of purposes? Do 'yo'u, need vers atility? Compactuesa. :M06t likely '}:'o·u. ,\1jII not have an unlimited amount of Jrope at 'yo'U,Jr disposal; the amount of Jrope that knots consume varies. F 0 Jr exa.'H1,p,:le. a, fip"u.Jre eight ,~ [iLl] [iLl on a, bight COllS'U,'H1.es twice as rnuch Jrope as a, single bowline backed 'U,P with a.Yosemite finish, :Ease of u'n.tyi'n.g[ll You 'H1,a:y'not want to waste precious time untying stub born knots. Is the knot ea.s}:· to untie and adjust once it has been ,\Tcel1[g;h.ted?
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TIle water knot (fi[g;. 2-3) is typically used to connect two pieces of webbins[iLl toaether to create an extension OJr to tie a. runner. As [iLl with a:n}/'bend, the two ends feed O·U.t from opposite sides of the knot, If the two ends exit the knot 011 the same side,~ vou have J retrace d }OU.Jr ,\ T~ to all 0' er h d"on 3, bi h t. 'M a.1 sure to set a.y ..anc ",,][gt .. "~[",, ee
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the knot tightly before loading: the tails have been known to slip [iLl [iLl under 103.d when not properly set.
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an :verh an d kno t 2:',1 to 3'J' in h ~1~ '9l"~T9'y["<:/ fe' 1IfIi0"':: th'"e,,"\ end 0"':: '9 fe' T""]·e,,"\ 0"': [iLl Piece of webbinz. 2. Brine the other end of webbins[iLl ·U.p,:to the lCl1LOt'S tail 311d [iLl retrace the overhand knot beginning fJr0 m the tail side. The knot should be completed with the two ends exitins 011 , [iLl · id opposite S]:'::: es.
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,Rig[. 2-,4,[. Fiqure ,eig,h,t Of~, a big,h,t[. ,A,[figu]~,e ,eig,h,t on, a big,h,t looks ,e:' ~c:[1tl !il". !il"I~JI'\.., a fie,.g:~,iIl-;p,e'" e,ig:h'It I fi"o':,:, ~~~-t'h'Il~O':,:,~,iIlg: h'I Tl»I,e:', d:~yp.:' Ie re lne'" is tl»I~tl 1 'x: ~yl'''' lik» Ilo .. / I~, ",I !il"!il,, I~u " I a b ht YI'.. '0':.:,~,~ n~';Iflll';lfllIO':,:, t' IlL , tl»I,e:" !il,,, o':,:,p":,,,'~ , ~,iIlg: h'l :,ig: tie " " lo ,. tl»Il~O':,:, U ..~itlh' a fie,g:~,~l~,e:" e ,ig: ht 0':,:, I,. IL , slom"eth,if~,g (iike a b,elay' loop) usithout a carabiner, tt},h,ile beca use qf the retra ce step ia a [fig u]~,e ,eig,h,t[jo Ilo u}- thro u,g,h, Y'o u,
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Considerina [iLl] that thes e are b eginning[iLl] climb ill [iLl] knots [.,heir tvina !p"' [iLl ~t J [iLl] instructions have not been included, TIle fi[g;u.nre eight and fi[g;u,nre eight 011 a. bight (fi[g;. 2-[4,) certainly consume more nrope than other knots, but they are also easier to undo than an overhand on a. bight, for example; a, consideration for heavy rescue loads. ,1\11members of the fi[g;u.nre eight family call also be tied ill webbina[iLl] (it makes for a. rnuch stronaer knot than an overhand:~ [iLl] however, ~ fi!p""u,nreel1!p"'th.tstied ill webbina[iLI]~]can be verv difficult to [iLl] [iLl .J untie), ,A, variation of the fig:'::'u.nreeight 011 a. bight l1S a, fi·9: u]~,e fiLln"e. ,A, fi[g;u.nre nine simply employs another '\1]La.p around the middle of the eight before insertma[iLl] through the fmal loop . ,A, fi!p""u,nrenine. [iLl [iLl ,[iLl].., altho ugh messv.J lookina. creates a. bulkier knot,~ which can make [iLl [iLll~ skinnier cord that has been holdina[iLI]"Jheavv loads (" s ill a, rescue) a easier to untie. Tests Sh,O,\T the fisure nine to be stronaer than the [iLl] [iLl] fi[g;u.nre el1[g;h,t.
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Flemish bend fJr 0'H1. a fi[g;u.Jre eight on a bight OJr a fi[g;u.Jre eight fo11 '\T- thro ugh. The Flemish b end IS rnuch easier to tie..., ad [JI 0 'iust..., [iLl and untie after beina loaded than a. double fisherman's. ~ and it is [iLl] a, [iLl] aood knot for creatine a, quick, imp rovisational eordelette [iLl] loop. Although a. bit bulkier than all overhand knot (aka "eurodeath knot"), .., the Flemish bend IS also [iLl] aood for Iinkina[iLl] two [. · d untie, d Jra.p,:, e I. JrOP,: s toaet her since i is easv to tie anc unti ~ strona, anc rer SInce it · ,P ,e [iLl] .J [iLl]~ ' ,'", · I h as a.re Iatrvely narrow T PJrO fil ,e. ... ,',
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a, fi[g;u,Jre eight 2 to 3 inches a.'\Ta:y' fJr 0'H1,the end of a. piece of" C'""0'"' rd 0'"' 1IfIi 1IfIi0'", pe'\ 2. Retrace the fiP'"u,Jre eight with another strand of JrOP,: [.] takinz [iLl] [iLl ,.., e [iLl] · ·· h · he knot s tal · care to initiate the retracing f' JrO'H1. tt ,e knot's fail'~' e:ns·u.nrJn[g: that the tails will exit in opposite directions.
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allowing the end of a. Jrope to slip through a. device when belaying OJr lowering, SO·H1.e climbers also use this knot 10Jr linking two d" Jra.ppe. I JrOpes togetth er. 'Wb"" ","""'"" useed" as a. bienc ~' a. d"oubI "ten , :'::: ue fisherman's ]S tied on either side of the line and Pulled toaether , [iLl] h · 6 as sr .0'\1J.1L In fi[g:. 2-\'"::"".
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Take one end of the Jrope and '\1]La.p it around the other Jrope ') · I· I ( OJr the enc " 0 f' t h S~lH1.e Jrope,"" ]11 tw 0 complete C1JrC"e8. Th"" d h ..e ne first circle should be made moving a.'\Ta:y' fJr 0'H1,'yo'u, while the second circle CO'H1.es back towards 'Y<>"O'U,[., ~ creatine an X where [iLl] the two circles CJrO£S. 2. Find the X[., created by JrOP,: crossina over itself, and thread e ,.;. ,[iLl the tail under and through that X[.] exitina ill line with the [iLl .., [iLl] strand of Jrope '}/O·U. ave tied '}/O·U.Jr h knot around, The tail should exit under and through the X a,,\Ta:}/' fJr 0'H1.'}/o·u..
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TIle Munter hitch ]S a. versatile and quick hitch that call be used IOJr lowerina OJr belaying, as well as IOJr Jra,p,:, ellina in Pla.ce of a. [iLl] [iLl]~ ,P [iLl] ,

belay device, The Munter 11Sunique in that it has two positions (I0 we rin [iLl] and takina[iLl] in slack)[. and dep en din !P"' 011 h,O,\T the !P"' ,[iLl] climb er 11S,\Tce11 ghtin [iLl] the Jrop,: (,' eina lowered 0 Jr climb ill [iLl [.,the !P"' b !p""): [iLl ," e [iLl] hitch willneed to rotate between those two positions. Altho ugh .. h !p"'e he ioac hould b t h ,e hi tc h' S onentatton can cr an [iLl] ~[.,tt ,e Ioad strancd' sr ou..:':::ie ,~' ~', r located 011 the sp,:ine side. Us ill [iLl] a. Munter does [iLl] P' senerate a. larse , [iLl] amount of friction but the friction of Jrope 011 Jrope ]S not of concern because the sections of JrOP,: rub bins aaainst each other ,e [iLl] [iLl] are constan tly changing,
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Place a, loop of Jrope flat in '}/o·u.Jr and, the circle oriented h sh ,:;: · a.w €i,~{f" 1IfIiO''1IflYl j/:;:·o·u €i.d d, ~'0"""wn '[1 fi[;61. 2' rn ". :.'. ~r
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Another handy '\Ta:y'to tie a, Munter ]S to build it directly 011 the carabiner; this ]S also all ea,sy' way to ensure that the load strand · · d' id ]S tree on th,e spIne ~' · S]:'::: e:

'Clip a. bight of Jrope in to a, locking carabiner with the gate s crewins dO'\1J1L,\Ta,Jrd. [iLl] 2. Grab the unweighted strand of Jrope fJr0 'H1. behind the loaded strand and brins it around in front of the load strand, [iLl]
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3. Clip a bight of the unweighted strand in to the carabiner (fip-'. 2-8'):. You do 110t need to chanae '~:/O·U.Jr hand P osition OJr [iLl] [. [iLl] .J ' d · ,e.z., :'::: · ·~ h ch anze the un Ioacd ec strancd's ori 's onentatton ( [iLl] ~ d ont t'\11St rt. [iLl] etc.) to do this. [4,.Make sure to set the knot ill the correct position (so that the load strand ]S ill fact loaded) before the climber weights the Jrop,:e (see fip-'. 2-~'):. [iLl] "',.
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TIle mule hitch a110'\78 a. belay to be tied off, [iLl P1I·vin!p"' the belaver [iLl .J the ability to remove her brake hand fJr0 'H1, the Jrope and attain the hands-free position, Many knots work okay 10Jr this p'u,nrp06e~] but the mule hitch ]S a. reliable slippery hitch that ]S relatively ea,sy<>"' remove after loadina. It combines ,\TceII with a. Munter. .., to [iLl] h· d· · 'H1,a.1 · [iLl rt tt ,e hi tch 0 f cr .0]Ce[., anc ]S an IH1,P,:ortant CO'H1.p,: rma · h ,~'r h orient 0 f Jrope rescue. Because it ]S a. slippery hitch, the mule ]S always backed 'u.p. ·. · d' , ea,sy anc' re I· bI biac1· ]S an over h d' on a. b,:,,][glh t tree ra ue {U.p ..anc d around the 10 ad strand with the ,\TcO rkina end, Another op,:tion. [iLl which uses rnuch less JrOP,: [., ]S to clip the loop (" O'H1.inp' off the e C [iLl] mule hitch)[. with a, carabiner to the load strand ("filp'. ~/<,i_[4/, in . [iLl] chapter 7 Sh,O'\TS this backup method).
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loop with the brake , strand, TIle portion of the brake strand closest to the Munter rnust be stacked between the load strand and the standins [OJ end of the b rake strand ("he circle in fip-'. 2 -1,0'): . .t [OJ [. 2. Make a. bight of nrop,: in the standins end of the brake e [0, [0] ,), d' stran d (.'" 2 A[··· f· 2- 1,0 [.,[.,anc P'U.S,h rt tt rough~'.h "oop,: '~I'O'U. r """~~ 11p'. In [0] ~', i h the I ' .J [0 · h rust create d .., 'H1,a.1· [OJ sure to trave I· In a, de. '::: [.] rma :'::: rectton tt at '\1]La,p,: s t [JI , he oac th,e b 1 stranc d i a. hai ctrcie arouncd' theload stranc d'('"2']B"~ ira re In ,~' If' · I " ,}' · 11p'. ') In f'·[0] 2-1,1". [. f [OJ [. 3. 'Cinch. the mule hitch dO'\1J1 ("ip-'. 2 -1,2'):. [4,. Tie a. backup knot as close to the mule hitch as possible (fi[OJ 2-1,3 ,. ,A" ,",[OJ,',' , , "" 'd"': b"iac1,'" '1,' . :' "" t ]S an 0\' er h" 'd"': ,',,':, a b"·'"[0 h t t·, sd'" e., ,', p. p-oo"" {u.p",{no, ., .anc on ",,]P-I'" ue around the load strand with the mule tail, Note: To keep the mule and the backup knot as close to the Munter as possible, work on a. plane perpendicular to the nrope rather than pulling and tightening 'u.p,: and awav fnr0'H1, the Mun ter ("ee fip-'. 2 -1,8 [.] [0 [OJ,.J .s [OJ .., which Sh,O'\TSthe same tie-off with a. belay device), Fiaure 2-114/, [OJ Sh,O'\TSa. completed Munter-rnule- overhand (~l\1[M . 0)
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Step 2.~the brake strand makes a hal] circle a ro und the loa d stra nd .
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T'ilNG A :MULE HITCH: ON A BEIAY DEVICE

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Fig. 2-18. Completed mule hitch, unti» ar~, verhand backup o tyir~,gqff an"A,TC belay'. --------------------'

(that sharp kink in the belay strand as it exits the belay devi C), ·h h h the evice; ";!\, [... III fi·[g;. 2-1,,5"'~1pa.ss a. bnght 0 f' Jrope tt ,Jro'U,[g;~'.h "L~,~~ op,:en sp,:ace of the carabiner (" 2 -1",r:;'): . fip-'. , , "[iLl] ~[. 2. Twist that bight into a, loop ~ takina care to stack the section [iLl ' [., [iLl] of brake strand closest to the ,AT'e between the standins end [iLl] and the loaded clirnbin [iLl] , e (,'dashed circle in fip-'. 2-1,6'):;~ Pull p-'Jrop,: " [iLl] [. , more slack thro ugh if '}/o·u.need it. 3 and [4,·P]c1{ 'u,p at step 3 of tying off a. Munter with a, mule (fi[g;. 2-1,7 and 2-1,8). Pull a:n}/' slack out 011 a. plane perpendicular to the Jrope and belay device (see arrow in fi[g;. 2-1,7). Th.]S helps keep the backup 1(1110tclose to the rnule.
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To release the rnule,~ [' just work '~:/O·U.Jr '\Ta:y<:/ backward, ~ but be J careful! If usin [iLl] a, belav device, make sure to 'H1,a.i11ta.i11 that p-' J ~ h ira re stranc . h :'::: · rsee "J\,L~.~~ fi·P-'. sh a JrP,: 1· 1·III the brake strand next to the d evice (' .. [... III , xm ( "[iLl] 'b [ 2-1,,;) an d step 1, 0 ftvi tymg a. rmueI on a. belav devi ') as }OU. return ""e"a.y ""evicej the brake strand to its standard belaying position, (~lf the 1{i111{ ]S 110t maintained '}/o·u. could lose belaying control as '}/o·u. undo the rnule.) 'Wa,r111'}/o·u.Jrclimber that he might feel a, little pop as the rnule is released,
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o nrun weighted, into a carabiner, Instead of using da igly' cha if~;S"l 'nlally' climbers (especially alpinists, in their effort to climb fast and light)[..J tie in to belav anchors with clove hitches, ~ which are [iLl ea,sy<:/ adjust and untie. Dnlike SO'H1.eother hitches,'" the clove to [JI hitch has the advan tage of holding tight when just one strand ]S weighted, If weighted and unweighted repeatedly, the clove hitch can loosen and if not properly ti[g;h,telled it 'H1.a:}/· cnreep ·u.p and potentially ope:n the gate of a. nonlocking carabiner, For this reason it is recommended to 110t leave clove hitches unattended and to use a locking carabiner, As with the Munter, 'yo'u, should ideally tie this hitch so that · h · id e. t h ,e ioac strancd ]S 011 tt ,e eara biner' spIne S]:'::: 'W· h tmg a. nners e][g;~' · Id carabiner's gate axis call decrease the carabiner's strength considerably,
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Take a. bight of nrop,: ill either hand. .., leavina[iLI].J onlv a. few e [iLl, inches of spa,ce between the two bights, 2. Rotate both. bights half a, circle in the same direction to create two 10'"' 0'", p [iLl] ,[iLl] 3. Brina the two loop s to aether.~ makina[iLl] sure to s andwieh the two lonaer strands ("hat dangle dO'\1I1L'): [iLl] t fip-'. [iLl] [iLl [. to aether (" [iLl] 2 -ro) . "',. [4,. 'Clip a. carabiner thr 0 ugh the two loops.
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Friction hitches are vital rescue 1(00ts used for ascendinz. [Ol~ deseendinz. and holdina[0] loads at sp,:ecific sp,:ots 011 a, nrop,: . The [OJ.., " ,e hitch can slide along the line but once weighted will grip the nrope at that spot and hold its position 011 the line. 'I' ]S '\reryr important to a ..'\7a:ys ( I J fri · It .. ,,'yes~l C1l,tt}C1Y'S],":') test '}/o·u.nr rtction hitch P rior to loading it for real to ensure that it grip s and slides ,0 0 ' when llecessa,ryr. Eve Jrj/' nrope ]S a, little different, Newer nropes call be more slippery than older ones and so might need another ,\rnra,p thrown 011 to make sure the hitch grabs, The number of ,\rnra,ps needed for ally' friction hitch also depends 011 the comparative diameter of the nrope and the cord being used; the larger the difference the fewer the '\rnra.ps. You 'H1,a:y'also firid yourself adjusting the number of ,\rnra,ps if nropes are wet or SllO'\1)1' or if vou are dealina[0] with a, larae load. Hanging[0] midair, ~ slowly .J [0] [0 · .. I· } Id',.. e d' h SI.]pp]n,gl~] ]S 110t t h p,I.~lCe to nrea..1Z~e OU. COU.."" h~r\ u.se"" anott ,enr .. ,e · · ,\rnra,p III 'yo'u,nr f'·· rtction hi tet ,. H'-nIJip'l;(7 materia Is (1·1 D','I""}lDee'H1.a, d ,~' h ,J.Jl1rJ: ',n r ",.1re " anc Spectra se'\1J.1L runners) are not recommended for friction hitches because of their 10,\7 melting point and slippery texture,
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friction hitches. But that also creates its b],g:g:est downfall; it call be difficult to untie OJr slide after holding a large load, 'With. the exception of laid JrOpes~] which are Jrar ely' used by modern climbers.~ another advantaae ]S that a, Prusik does a, [0] areat [' job [0] d· · ·1· d I "03,",,,]11 ,. ,TIrU,Sl:]S ac equate { h .0,,"'"n,gl a. I d i allY",,, irection, Th ,e tw o-'\1]La.p P' Id"· fo Jr 'H1,3lIY' things but a, P rusik hitch with three '\1]L3.pS (called 311 "improved Prusik hitch' by sO'H1.e) ]S recommended for rescue ·· h rf a,pp I.1C3.tlOllS; tt ,e ext Jr3. '\1]La,p creates more S'U,, ace 3.Jre3. f' OJr h h· 1 · ,g:Jra, ::"In,g:thre Jrope. Th ,Jro'u"g;rout t.~".1S b::,,00,{ we SIH1.p,I:Y'use "P'·1 { ,~" russ bb · hitch" to mean 3. three-wrap Prusik, Cord ]S the preferred material for ty<ill[0] Prusiks:~ however..., nvlon webbina[0] can be used, !p"' .J 'With, webbina[0] 'y<>'O'U, should use more '\1]L3.P':S,., nd Prusiks tied ill , ~a we b bing are rnuch 'H1,0Jre difficult to releas e once ,\Tce],g;h,ted.
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thr 0ugh the middle of the loop ("fi!p"'. 2-22[.].., right), [iLl ' " [iLl] [iLl [. ,5. Move '}/o·u.nr hand just a. few inches off the knot to either side. 6. P\u11 the loop directly a.'\Ta:y' fnr 0'H1. the nrope~l all 0wing the ,\rnra,p,:S to cinch down ("i!p"'. 2-2 left). f [iLl] 7. In order to properly dress the Prusik, 'yo'u, rnust sort the ,\rnra,ps over one another until there are 110 crisscrosses and thev are all lvina flat,~ tight ill line on the nrop,:e ("fi!p"'. 2-23 .J .J [iLl] [iLl ' [iLl] right). Picture a. well-dressed Prusik as four straight teeth, ill the center with a, large lower lip running ill an uninterrupted crescent shape fnr 0'H1. left to right on the outside, Once the Prusik ]S loaded and bites down, these loops will shift d h h ·1's ·· SO'H1,e,\T h at, ~",~' ld '}/O·U. neec to cr ,all[g:e tt ,e P' russ {:' position Sh .O'U. c on the line,~ unweight it. then loosen 'U,P,: the lower lip (" r o [iLl.., , , "b ira 1 biar ,,), with '}/o·u.nr tt ,'U,'H1.i. N' O,\T S,I· d' e the P' russ·1 to the h b h h re ) ·h rc {: esi ,', :,': '\"!l'.'Iq d '\ p, e, '\ "!l'·~,Tce, s, ,', ,d e, ,', d,,:,': 1IfIie, 'nee e, Pp, 0,': to,'::'['1 th"' e, 1IfIiO,':: '9 'nee d,':": '\].[iLl h t '9 P 'nee e,e,', ,':":d,':":
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