Diesel generator that won't start. Hi, My neighbor gave me a 5000 watt diesel generator before he moved.

It has no name brand, just c500d revolution. I think it's a chinese made knockoff of a Yanmar generator. Anyway, it's never been started, and he didn't give me a manual, and he's gone. I tried to get it running today, but it wouldn't start. Fuel is getti ng from the tank to the engine. I have it jumpered to my truck, so the starter h as full power. I'm wondering if most diesels need to be primed, and if so, how s hould I go about priming it. I tried removing the injector line, and pouring die sel in there, but that didn't work. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tim loosen the fuel lines at the injectors and keep cranking in 5 second intervals u ntil diesel flows out from the lines. Correct loosen all injector lines while cranking see if fuel coming from injecto rs. If it has a fuel filter or bowel check it for dirt, check lines if rubber fo r cracks or suction loss. make sure fuel is getting to injectors confirm once yo u have fuel check electric wires etc. how old is unit? could have a compression problem. good luck wish i was there to help you let me know if u get it running. Bob Raynor

Hi most diesels require the fuel to be heated first so look for a glow plug and if you cannot find the glow plug switch squirt just a small amount of starting f luid into the carb.

Hey Dave Smith, diesel engines don't have carbs... I think you meant to say "...squirt a small amount of starting fluid into the ai r inlet (take the air filter off first)."

I have a Izumi diesel generator that I can not get started. I have tried pretty much everything you guys have suggested. The only way I can get it to crank is w ith starting fluid but it wont stay running.

Thanks for the ideas everyone. I was eventually able to get it running. It turne d out that the fuel pump was stuck in the locked position. I removed the fuel pu mp, and worked the sliding locking pin, which freed up the pump mechanism. I wor ked it by hand until it felt pretty loose, and I could hear it pumping air. I pu t it back in, and the generator fired right up and ran great. Maybe that would w ork for you Gary.

Tim in Elk, California said: Hi, My neighbor gave me a 5000 watt diesel generator before he moved. It has no name brand, just c500d revolution. I think it's a chinese made knockoff of a Yan mar generator. Anyway, it's never been started, and he didn't give me a manual,

and he's gone. I tried to get it running today, but it wouldn't start. Fuel is g etting from the tank to the engine. I have it jumpered to my truck, so the start er has full power. I'm wondering if most diesels need to be primed, and if so, h ow should I go about priming it. I tried removing the injector line, and pouring diesel in there, but that didn't work. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tim check to injection pump solenoide make sure dc volts over there how much needed in there, if its ok removed and test injector they are fire..?make sure engine g etting air or not??

i have a genset MG 6000 SY, i just got it to run our catering trailer was workin g when i collected it but had a fuel leak replaced all the fuel hoses and copper washers for the injector hose cleaned it but now will not start i have bled it and seams to be getting fuel to the injector but will not fire at all,any ideas if generator runs with easy start then the cam for fuel pump is not in correct p lace and or has sheared ,sorry but only to find out for sure is take fuel pump o ff again , you done it once

david smith in Olney, Illinois said: Hi most diesels require the fuel to be heated first so look for a glow plug and if you cannot find the glow plug switch squirt just a small amount of starting fluid into the carb. don't answer a question you know nothing about. Diesels don't have carbs, never put starting fluid in a diesel engine, and diesel fuel doesn't require heating b efore use unless it severely cold out and the fuel has solidified (and that does n't happen much especially with the additives they put in it now), the glow plug s are there to heat the air or the block in some cases before compression of sai d air to raise the temp. before the diesel is injected. -Diesel Generator Mechanic for Lockheed Martin

I am looking for generator mechanics in the Atlanta metro area who would like to work for themselves as Independent Contractors, also have slots for employees. The pay is good (depending on expierience) and you can be your own boss. I am st arting a generator maintenance firm and looking for techs to work the Atlanta ar ea and surrounding states to AL, FL, SC and TN mileage pay is very good, almost double or triple what CDL drivers make in addition to windshield pay. You will need.. Your own tools. Your own truck and atleast 3 years of expierience as a Generator Mechanic. if you are interested then e-mail me at adam_ant72@yahoo.com and I will keep you in mind for jobs that come up.

PLEASE HELP> We have a Lister (HawkPower) that one day quit under load, we found that when the 2 AC units are on at the same time is when it quits. the genset i s 18KW and more than enough for the load. so we had to keep the engine revved to keep it runing. we know that it is not a fuel or battery issue, any ideas?

H.Dermish in North Zulch, Texas said: PLEASE HELP> We have a Lister (HawkPow er) that one day quit under load, we found that when the 2 AC units are on at th e same time is when it quits. the genset is 18KW and more than enough for the lo ad. so we had to keep the engine revved to keep it runing. we know that it is no t a fuel or battery issue, any ideas? My first thought is that you may not have enough fuel flow but that cause it to die after a few seconds there would be a delay. If the genset dies immediately a fter applying load, then your problem is much worse. Either your main windings o r your exciter windings or even your voltage regulator. Remove each main gen wir e one at a time and check for continuity to ground (while it's shutdown) If you have continuity it's f*&#@d. The same with the two exciter wires. If the volatge reg is bad there are usually no tell tale signs, but the proper manual will hav e the tests and values of resistance necessary. The power transformer could also be the problem, as power passes through the windings it gets hot and in some ca ses can melt the insulation between the loops of windings. Also when electricity passes through electricity passes through metal the metal contracts so it could have a snake affect and only short out when you put a load to it. If that's not the case check your connections maybe you have a leak to ground somewhere (the AC units could have a short too) This would usually blow a fuse unless some bypa ssed it. There is a lot of other diagnostic steps to do too. If you feel unable to attempt these, hire a GenMech that's what we are here for.

Henry' Thanks for the reply, i wish there was a GenMech around here! anyway the genset runs, we just have to revved it up to stay running when it reaches a certain loa d.

I need a parts list for an Izumi 4000T Diesel generator C-E. Rated Voltage 120/2 40 Rated power 3000W

using DP6500ATS of Everlast Generators? I need references thanks your website is www.everlastgenerators.com/products-details-47.html, but i dont know.

Was using a borrowed Izumi 6700T diesel generator when it stopped running while under medium load. Had been running it for several days without any problems. Fu

el filter is not stopped up - tested it. My associates and I are novices with di esel engines. What elements would be the most likely problems areas to check? Any recommendations for good small diesel engine mechanics in the Houston area? The fuel filter has no markings. It is a pleated cartridge about 3.25 inches lon g and 1.125 inches diameter. What brand and item number should I be looking for and where can I get one? Still without electric power in hot Houston thanks to Ike and sluggish CenterPoi nt Electric Power!!

Floyd in Fort Worth, Texas said: I need a parts list for an Izumi 4000T Dies el generator C-E. Rated Voltage 120/240 Rated power 3000W Floyd, I have a generator Operation Instruction small manual and a Owner's Manual for t he Air Cooled Diesel Engine and they include the Izumi 4000 series. The Owner's Manual which includes parts lists is exactly like the one I downloaded from the EmergencyPower.com site at link: www.emergencypower.com/photos/dieselenginemanua l.pdf The pdf file link on their site is listed as: LA186 Diesel Engine Owners Manual. The manual covers three engine series: 170F, 178F, and 186F. Take a look at the pdf file.

Hey Gentlemen, Atlanta area generator mechanic here. What type of load did you have connected and are you sure that the amps didn't k nock it off-line? Are you sure it was only a medium load? Could it have overheated? Is the fuel pump OK? Air filter clogged? Schmutz (water, dirt, crap) in the fuel tank? Or bad fuel? Voltage regulator not regulating the voltage and the unit is sensing the wayward readings and shutting the unit down for over/under voltage? - Was this comment helpful? Yes (5) / No (1) Reply - Report abuse Hader in Corpus Christi, Texas 38 months ago

@Generator Maintenance Specialists in Atlanta, I don't know about 'George5', but in my case "PLEASE HELP> We have a Lister (Haw kPower) that one day quit under load, we found that when the 2 AC units are on a t the same time is when it quits. the genset is 18KW and more than enough for th e load. so we had to keep the engine revved to keep it running. we know that it is not a fuel or battery issue, any ideas?" All is checked but the voltage regulator, how do i know if it is the cause?

George....thanks for the parts list that I requested, that is what I needed....F loyd

To: Hader in Corpus Christy The voltage regulators often are not able to be tested but check your amp rating on your AC units and on the generator. It may say "X" amount of amps on the AC unit but that is continous rated and does not account for spikes when the compre ssors kick on. The compressor draws a large amount of current from the generator often in spikes, way much more than say a TV or a computer. It's basically like a pressusre washer sucking the water through the hose faster than the spigot ca n provide it and knocking the generator offline.

@Generator Maintenance Specialists, Thanks for the reply, the genset never had a problem with the same load before a nd now that is revved up manually runs great, i just rather it did it on it's ow n. Generator Maintenance Specialists in Atlanta, Georgia said: Hey Gentlemen, Atlanta area generator mechanic here. Q: What type of load did you have connected and are you sure that the amps d idn't knock it off-line? A: On this Izumi 6700T which supplies at least 5500 continuous watts, we wer e running a load which had been running very well on a Honda EB3000 which suppli es at least 2800 continuous watts. The load included 3 refrigerators, 6-10 light bulbs, 1-2 small CRT TV's, and nothing else significant (for 3 households). Ref rig compressor starts and defrost heaters would cause temporary surge loads, but the generators would respond well. The oil level was OK and the low oil warning light had not turned on. Q: Are you sure it was only a medium load? A: There was a medium load at the time the diesel engine stopped -- we were outside nearby where we were hearing the engine sound well. I wouldn't think the amps load caused it to stop. Starting attempts spread over several days have fa iled. It doesn't even try to run. Q: Could it have overheated?

A: It's possible, but the engine stopped about 11 pm after the evening had c ooled off somewhat. Starting efforts on subsequent days have failed, too. Q: Is the fuel pump OK? A: Haven't checked fuel flow to the injector yet. Plan to do that as next st ep. Q: Air filter clogged? A: Haven't checked it yet. This one has "silent" yellow covers all around, s o will have to do some cover removal, I think. This was a new generator which ha s probably not been run more than 10-15 days in a relatively clean environment o ut in the open. Q: Schmutz (water, dirt, crap) in the fuel tank? Or bad fuel? A: The clear fuel filter bulb and paper cartridge showed no contamination an d the fuel flowed freely when the bulb was removed. Bad fuel - maybe. Details later. - Was this comment helpful? Yes (1) / No (1) Reply - Report abuse George5 in Houston, Texas 38 months ago Ran out of character space in my previous reply. Generator Maintenance Specialists in Atlanta, Georgia said: Hey Gentlemen, Atlanta area generator mechanic here. (Deleted questions that have been answered.) Q: Schmutz (water, dirt, crap) in the fuel tank? Or bad fuel? Q: Voltage regulator not regulating the voltage and the unit is sensing the wayward readings and shutting the unit down for over/under voltage? A: Bad fuel might be involved in this problem. The freshly purchased Valero Serv ice Station diesel fuel looked more like yellow-green antifreeze when I poured i t into the tank than the brownish color I had expected. It was oily like diesel fuel should be and had the odor of diesel. It came out of pumps set up for truck s. How do we make a determination about this fuel? If this was ag diesel, should it have run OK? A: If the voltage regulator is the problem, would it keep the diesel engine from starting? The medium load output voltage was usually 119-120 volts, but the hea vy load surge output would drop down to around 104 volts and the engine speed wo uld drop some. Centerpoint Energy restored electric power 2 days ago (16 day outage) so hopeful ly we won't need generators again soon. Also have a Honda and an Onan (with B&S engine) that need gasoline engine repairs. Repair shops backlogs are 2-3 months. Thanks for the insight and pointers!!

Tim in Elk, California said: Hi, My neighbor gave me a 5000 watt diesel generator before he moved. It has no name brand, just c500d revolution. I think it's a chinese made knockoff of a Yan mar generator. Anyway, it's never been started, and he didn't give me a manual, and he's gone. I tried to get it running today, but it wouldn't start. Fuel is g etting from the tank to the engine. I have it jumpered to my truck, so the start er has full power. I'm wondering if most diesels need to be primed, and if so, h ow should I go about priming it. I tried removing the injector line, and pouring diesel in there, but that didn't work. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tim one of the ways of primiing is by loosing the fuel line on number 6 depending on how many injectors it may have. but looseing to the last injector fuel line the n cranking until fuel pours out and then tighten while the fuel is comming but y ou can see when the air is comming out also.

H.Dermish in North Zulch, Texas said: PLEASE HELP> We have a Lister (HawkPow er) that one day quit under load, we found that when the 2 AC units are on at th e same time is when it quits. the genset is 18KW and more than enough for the lo ad. so we had to keep the engine revved to keep it runing. we know that it is no t a fuel or battery issue, any ideas? Start one ac at a time you are over loading the gen on start or in rush of the a c's George5 in Houston, Texas said: Was using a borrowed Izumi 6700T diesel gene rator when it stopped running while under medium load. Had been running it for s everal days without any problems. Fuel filter is not stopped up - tested it. My associates and I are novices with diesel engines. What elements would be the mos t likely problems areas to check? Any recommendations for good small diesel engine mechanics in the Houston ar ea? The fuel filter has no markings. It is a pleated cartridge about 3.25 inches long and 1.125 inches diameter. What brand and item number should I be looking for and where can I get one? Still without electric power in hot Houston thanks to Ike and sluggish Cente rPoint Electric Power!! check oil level and pressure and coolant level if it is liquid cooled, bring the filter to napa and they can match it

todd in Anchorage, Alaska said: Start one ac at a time you are over loading the gen on start or in rush of the ac's they are not started at the same time, but when running at the same time is when

we have the problem. and once again , the genset is bigger than the load. it ra n the same load for months.

YOU CAN POSSIBLY HAVE A CLOGGED FUEL FILTER. IF YOU NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM BEFOR E, I WOULD CHECK THE FILTER. WHEN YOUR UNIT CALLS FOR MORE FUEL, AS THE LOAD RIS ES.. IT IS VERY POSSIBLE THAT YOU ARE NOT RECIEVING THE PROPER AMOUNT OF FUEL TO KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING AT RATED SPEED FOR THAT PARTICULAR LOAD. THAT USALLY IS THE FIRST CHECK I WOULD MAKE.. AND POSSIBLY THE CHEAPEST..

Thanks for the reply, we know so far it has nothing to do with any fuel issues o r the solenoid. it has to be the voltage regulator. I'll update when we find out.

I am trying to get my 12 month old Yanmar copy (ie Chinese made) 170F air cooled diesel water pump running again. I suspect a fuel blockage. Just wondering if t here are any "tricks" to removing, cleaning and replacing the fuel pump and inje ctors. I want to inspect and clean them. (The problem was/is: Pump was running w ell until the last attempt to use it when, soon after starting easily, it began to blow out black sooty exhaust, slowed down and then stopped. After that it wou ld at first fire for a few revolutions and then die. Then would not fire without the starter motor cranking it over.) Suggestions gratefully received. Cheers.

Hader in Corpus Christi, Texas said: @Generator Maintenance Specialists, Thanks for the reply, the genset never had a problem with the same load befo re and now that is revved up manually runs great, i just rather it did it on it' s own. Well, your still having this problem. You have electricity, but it won't govern itself. Often a generator has a governor control unit. This may be electrical or mechanical. If electrical there is no sure fix, just save time and replace that component, (check your wiring diagram first to ensure it's connected properly a nd your connections are good you know corrosion or looseness) If Mechanical, the y usually run on oil pressure. If the oil is contaminated it may have clogged up the journals on this component. Removal is easy and an overnight stay in parts washing fluid should be enough. Installation is also easy don't worry it doesn't have to be timed. I know you say fuel isn't a problem but that is where I would begin, yes you have flow but do you have pressure, is your fuel pump blocked sl ightly (this may have to be timed if you have more than one cylinder) At the inj ector pipe where it connects to the injector the fuel should shoot out with forc e, don't worry it doesn't hurt there. If there is just a trickle check your filt er first, by checking flow before and after the filter unless the only thing bef ore the filter is the fuel tank LOL. If you have good flow all the way to the in jector, good. Maybe you have a clogged injector, this would cause a sputtering o r spitting sound as it misfires accompanied with black smoke (unburned diesel). It's not really good for it to be reved up without load, it's like reveing your car in nuetral, you could cause some major damage and then repair may not be an option. I hope part of this helped. That'll be $450 LOL!

Henry in Hinesville, Georgia said: Well, your still having this problem. You have electricity, but it won't govern itself. Often a generator has a governor control unit. This may be electrical or mechanical. If electrical there is no su re fix, just save time and replace that component, (check your wiring diagram fi rst to ensure it's connected properly and your connections are good you know cor rosion or looseness) If Mechanical, they usually run on oil pressure. If the oil is contaminated it may have clogged up the journals on this component. Removal is easy and an overnight stay in parts washing fluid should be enough. Installat ion is also easy don't worry it doesn't have to be timed. I know you say fuel is n't a problem but that is where I would begin, yes you have flow but do you have pressure, is your fuel pump blocked slightly (this may have to be timed if you have more than one cylinder) At the injector pipe where it connects to the injec tor the fuel should shoot out with force, don't worry it doesn't hurt there. If there is just a trickle check your filter first, by checking flow before and aft er the filter unless the only thing before the filter is the fuel tank LOL. If y ou have good flow all the way to the injector, good. Maybe you have a clogged in jector, this would cause a sputtering or spitting sound as it misfires accompani ed with black smoke (unburned diesel). It's not really good for it to be reved u p without load, it's like reveing your car in nuetral, you could cause some majo r damage and then repair may not be an option. I hope part of this helped. That' ll be $450 LOL! Oh, hey if you are checking your injectors be very careful the fuel comes out of here with such force that it will blow a hole through your hand! Have these che cked by a professional, any diesel shop should have a bench tester for injectors and they have the knowledge to use it.

Gary Benson in Dallas, Texas said: I have a Izumi diesel generator that I ca n not get started. I have tried pretty much everything you guys have suggested. The only way I can get it to crank is with starting fluid but it wont stay runni ng. that is because it now feeds off of that stuff the "starter fluid" like a drug.. ..anyways the first steps are.....to make sure that your fuel tank is not dirty with trash and if not....second go to the feul pump sometimes those things do go out and the only way to know is that it clicks when you turn it to run not star t.....if it does click "it is a repeated clicking noise" if it does click then l oosen the line that is on the side of the fuel pump that goes to your fuel filte r. if fuel comes out of that with out starting the engine the fuel pump is good. ....next you go the the filters both filter must be in good shape if those look dirty but before you take those off make sure that the engine switch is turn off take those off look at them if they look dirty then replace them if not make su re that fuel is getting to the filter....now remember that there are two filters one is the water seperator and the other looks like a lawn mower filter. Just as the gentleman said earlier you either have a fuel flow issue or an air f low issue. The best course of action would be to check both and see of you have an obstruction in either place. Blocked fuel filter, inoperable fuel pump, water in the fuel, blocked air filter, critters in the air intake, a sucked up plasti c bag or anything like that could cause it not to fire up like it should. I am a ssuming that noting bad happened like it was run over by a car or no one poured cherry syrup in a cylinder. Check us out.. -John

Generator Maintenance Specialists (Atlanta) www.realpages.com/sites/genmaintspc

Yes very good John, I think the man better take your advise. Hope your diesel is dazzeling. Best.

wardawg in San Antonio, Texas said: YOU CAN POSSIBLY HAVE A CLOGGED FUEL FIL TER. IF YOU NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM BEFORE, I WOULD CHECK THE FILTER. WHEN YOUR U NIT CALLS FOR MORE FUEL, AS THE LOAD RISES.. IT IS VERY POSSIBLE THAT YOU ARE NO T RECIEVING THE PROPER AMOUNT OF FUEL TO KEEP THE ENGINE RUNNING AT RATED SPEED FOR THAT PARTICULAR LOAD. THAT USALLY IS THE FIRST CHECK I WOULD MAKE.. AND POSS IBLY THE CHEAPEST.. Sounds logical to me!How do I change the Fuel filter with out changing theFuel P ump(Honda Civic 2001).

Thabks again wardawg.Cathy

Peter F. in Melbourne, Australia said: I am trying to get my 12 month old Ya nmar copy (ie Chinese made) 170F air cooled diesel water pump running again. I s uspect a fuel blockage. Just wondering if there are any "tricks" to removing, cl eaning and replacing the fuel pump and injectors. I want to inspect and clean th em. (The problem was/is: Pump was running well until the last attempt to use it when, soon after starting easily, it began to blow out black sooty exhaust, slow ed down and then stopped. After that it would at first fire for a few revolution s and then die. Then would not fire without the starter motor cranking it over.) Suggestions gratefully received. Cheers. I have the exact same condition with the same Chinese made generator, but I have three of them, one runs good and the two others blow out black sooty exhaust an d than slows down and stopped, I have swapped the fuel injector pump and the fue l injector with the one that runs to one of the engines that doesn't and still w on't start, it will try and will fire with the starter helping it but not on it' s own. I put injector pump and the injector taken out of the bad motor and put t hem in the good running motor and it still runs good, so I know the injector and pump are good, swapped fuel tanks(filter in tank) to no avail, These engines ha ve very low hours on them so I don't think the compression is the issue, in fact , with the two that I can't get going, they will come up on the compression stro ke and the starter won't have enough power to take it through the cycle, it will when first cranking it but once it fires and dies any restarts results in stopp ing on the compression stroke. I don't know it I'm not getting enough fuel or to o much, they do smoke quite a bit when first started, any comments appreciated, Yooper Yooper, Try taking out the fuel cut-off solenoid and remove the plunger and spring and t

hen re-install the solenoid. Then bleed all the air out and start the engine. Yo u will have to shut the engine off with the throttle lever. If that works check for loose connections and low voltage to the fuel cut-off solenoid. I will assum e it is not the solenoid since you said you changed the injector pump. Good luck . I have a 655 jd compact tractorhitting on 2 cyl's when bleeding injectors the on e clostest to the fan just keeps blowing air even running the motor for several minutes any ideas thanks Jammer

The most likely cause is a fuel line or bad gasket at the fuel filter. It could also be a bad injector pump. Look very closely for cracks or pinholes that will allow air into the injector pump. Good Luck

I have a military 10KW diesel generator. It has a mechanical governor. When put under a load of any kind (75% or 10% doesn't make a difference) it runs ok for a bout 5 to ten minutes then wants to die. I am pretty sure it is getting fuel and the governor is working B/C when it dies there is black smoke from the exhaust and sut like the diesel isn't being burned completely. I am lost please help.

matt in Warren, Ohio said: I have a military 10KW diesel generator. It has a mechanical governor. When put under a load of any kind (75% or 10% doesn't make a difference) it runs ok for about 5 to ten minutes then wants to die. I am pre tty sure it is getting fuel and the governor is working B/C when it dies there i s black smoke from the exhaust and sut like the diesel isn't being burned comple tely. I am lost please help. Air or liquid cooled? Air cooled: Those particular gensets are problematic with the battery charging s ystem. Disconnect the main negative. Remove the blower housing these are 1/2 and 3/8. remove the 3/8 bolts to the top air shroud as well. A stator is behind the blower wheel and these two wires coming out near the fuel injection pump should be checked for a short. Isolate (disconnect) these wires at the terminal board below the aluminum component (regulator/rectifier). Set your multimeter for audi ble countinuity, attach one lead to the wire and the other to ground (anywhere o n the gen) make sure you get bare metal. If you hear a tone this component is de fective. Repeat for the other wire. If this checks out good, move on the the reg ulator rectifier. This check is easier. Replace the blower housing correctly (do not damage the oil cooler). WARNING! Rotating blades! Re-attach the main neg. S tart the gen, remove the main neg battery cable at the battery terminal for a co unt of three and reattach the cable to the battery. If the set dies within these three seconds the regulator/rectifier is blown and has to be replaced. Do not r un the gen for prolonged periods without the batteries hooked up because unresti cted pulsating DC power will blow the regulator/rectifier. Liquid cooled: same type of check only disconnect the main negative at the batte ry. This gen isn't as sensitive but still prolonged use with unattached batterie s can damge th alternator. Let me know what you find.

-Henry (Generator Mechanic for Lockheed Martin)

while cranking these diesels for extended periods, trying to start them, don't u se starting fluid, usesilicone spray lube, or wd 40 to give the upper end some l ubrication, it also helps spin faster. i had a olds 5.7 diesel once and it must crank a MINIMUM of 500 rpm to start. just a note to you guys

I am a generator field technician with 18 yrs plus experience. i am Kohler certi fied generator,ATS,and Marine generator.. i have experience with other models ca t. honda,generac,winco,onan etc i am also detroit diesel certified 60 series&EGR . two stroke MTU have all tools needed just need job. looking for work in the st ate of illinois. i am willing to travel..please reply to AL. e-mail alicat920@at t.net thank you

alicat in Belleville, I am having a problem seperating a kohler 10kw electric plant (104cop63 96344a) from the Perkins 4-107. removed bolts from bellhousing but they will not seperat e. Any help, please.

It's probably hung up on the gen bearing which is attached to the main rotor. Us ing a rubber mallet strike the stator near the mounting point of the engine. Usi ng a brass drift strike with regular hammer at the end where the gen bearing is visible. If it still won't come free a puller is required. Be careful not to dam age the stator or bearing if you are planning on re using it.

Well I would definitely rule out a set screw but it is highly unlikely. I have n ever encountered one. Like I said a puller might be your best shot.

Check the fuel actuator solenoid. If it gets built up with rust it may not want to release when the voltage is cut to it. This should have a rubber boot accompa nied with spring center shaft that attaches to a governor control/fuel rail. Rem ove clean re-install check for actuation. If no actuation, check the connector f or voltage, (directly off the harness). If no voltage is present check circuit d iagram and back track checking connections, relays. Be meticulous, tag your wire s before you disconnect and save a headache. Take your time, if you rush you cou ld F it up. Good luck.

Tim in Elk, California said: Hi, My neighbor gave me a 5000 watt diesel generator before he moved. It has no name brand, just c500d revolution. I think it's a chinese made knockoff of a Yan mar generator. Anyway, it's never been started, and he didn't give me a manual, and he's gone. I tried to get it running today, but it wouldn't start. Fuel is g etting from the tank to the engine. I have it jumpered to my truck, so the start er has full power. I'm wondering if most diesels need to be primed, and if so, h ow should I go about priming it. I tried removing the injector line, and pouring diesel in there, but that didn't work. Any ideas? Thanks, -Tim spray fuel in air INTAKE

First check for a knob that can be locked in the run/start position. Ok. The Fue l comes from the tank, to a filter, to an injection pump, to the injector. Start at the base of the tank, if there is a valve make sure it is open. Check the li nes for cracks, just because fuel doesn't come out doesn't mean air isn't gettin g in. Check for a dirty fuel filter. Fuel should flow just as well out of the fi lter as it does in. You might spill a little fuel, remove the line to the inject ion pump, when the fuel flows quickly re attach the hose to the injection pump. Now loosen the top part of the steel line at the injector. It is not nessesary t o completely remove it, only loosened enough to let the air escape. Leaving it s lack crank the engine, when bubbles turn to squirts, tighten the line back. The set should start. If it doesn't repeat the last step and try again. If it still doesn't start, make sure the injection pump is working by completely removing th e steel from both ends and set the line aside. Crank, fuel should spit out of he re very well. If not remove the nut that holds the small plate over the window o n the injection pump. Make sure that the pin is between the teeth of the fuel ra ck. If not, remove pump and properly locate the pin upon re-installation. This o pens and closes the injection pump and stops or allows fuel through. If the pin was already located but no fuel comes out and the start/run knob is locked down in the start position, chances are the injection pump is shot and you'll need a new one. If you are getting fuel from the pump but not out the line at the top w hen connected than the line could be clogged. Compressed air might do the trick. Maybe a paperclip too, don't get it stuck. If you have fuel at the top of the s teel line and it won't start after cranking for a while, the injector. DO NOT pu ll the injector and hook it up to the steel line and attempt to clean it out the pressure output is enough to blow a hole through your hand. Replace it.

My Kohler 8KW diesel generator surges when I have the A/C running. Would appreci ate any advice on possible casues and how to troubleshoot / fix. Thanks!

I had a similar experience. I had changed the Racor filter but forgot to change the two engine filter. After new filters engine no longer surged.

steve in Annapolis Junction, Maryland said: I had a similar experience. I ha d changed the Racor filter but forgot to change the two engine filter. After new

filters engine no longer surged. Thanks Steve! What kind of filteres are these - are they both fuel?

Yes, my particular generator has one primary (RACOR) fuel filter and two seconda ry fuel filters.

CJNE in Florida said: alicat in Belleville, I am having a problem seperating a kohler 10kw electric plant (104cop63 9634 4a) from the Perkins 4-107. removed bolts from bellhousing but they will not sep erate. Any help, please. this was listed as a diesel that won't start. can any one see that in my questio n? No one has had the information I requested. I seperated the diesel from the 1 0KW kohler, if any one ever wants to know how to do that, please send e-mail. ok how - Was this comment helpful? Yes / No Reply - Report abuse wardawg in San Antonio, Texas 27 months ago i would like to know how you separated the diesel from the 10KW Kohler..

I have a 15kw Kohler diesel generator that won't shut off- I had a small amount of diesel in the tank- so it just ran out. What are the first things I should be looking for when I fire it up again? Is there also another way to get it to shu t down without running it empty again? Thanks.

Check the fuel solenoid. Move it back and forth if it's linkage is exposed this might free it up. If it's got an enclosed actuator or governor control module yo u may have to replace it. Try disassembly, clean any corrosion you come across a nd reassemble. The fuel injector pump might have a movable butterfly this could shut the fuel off. Or you could choke it out by covering the air intake with som ething flat and rigid like a clipboard. If all else fails and you have a runaway situation a CO2 fire extinguisher works all the time even if it's a little mess y.

There is no such thing as an Izumi generator, it is a counterfeit, check it out.

Isuzu NPR - 1994 - 3.9 Diesel. Loud tapping noise while engine running...plenty of oil...suggestions?

Your going to have to localize the noise first. Cut off a broomstick about 2 ft long and hold to your ear while touching the engine with the other end in differ ent areas. Sounds like a lifter has come loose to me,could be worse though. If i t runs good yet while making the noise thats probably all it is unless a lobe of f the cam is coming apart.

thanks, I'll trouble shoot some more

Hader in Corpus Christi, Texas said: @Generator Maintenance Specialists, Thanks for the reply, the genset never had a problem with the same load befo re and now that is revved up manually runs great, i just rather it did it on it' s own. I am not sure what the others are telling you. If you can manually rev the engin e it is a governor problem. What kind of governor does it have mechanical or ele ctric. Gen Tech in FL

I've got a big problem with the 1969-ish Perkins 4-107 in my boat and nobody can seem to solve it. The engine runs, runs strong for sometimes 2 or 3 hours, but then out of nowhere, it stops likes it's out of fuel. I can go down below and bl eed the system (getting good at that!) and USUALLY get it to start right up agai n. But it will stop again. At first I thought it was algae growth in the tank clogging the fuel tube becaus e the boat hadn't been used in a few years. So I drained all the fuel, unbolted an access hatch and physically cleaned the whole inside of the fuel tank. I chan ged the Racor and the Perkins fuel filters, and the fine screen at the top of th e injector pump. I had the injectors rebuilt, installed a brand new lift pump. I thought there might be pinholes in the old copper piping fuel lines, so replac ed them with new rubber fuel lines and fewer connections. I removed and cleaned a small check valve in a banjo fitting near the Perkins filter. And it still does it. It runs really good when its running, but then out of nowh ere, it will stop. I'm wondering if I should replace the injection pump--that's a heckuva job in a miserable place, and wicked expensive to boot. Please, guys> any thoughts on this one? It's driving me nuts! Thanks!

If you had a fuel leak, you would probably notice. But what about an air leak in

to the fuel system. It could be ever so slight and only when enough air built up would it miss a beat or two or all. When you bleed it again check for air bubbl es at the hard lines to the injectors. If air is present, check all hard lines b oth ends for tightness, if all are snugged down and well seated (the flare is sq aure on the fitting), then you could have a bad hard line. I have seen this on o lder engines, the steel line can rot with time from the inside out. Not a bad id ea to change them anyway, but your injection pump might still be drawing air in. If so than rebuild it or replace it. Hope this helps.

Thanks, Henry, I appreciate you thinking about this problem. It seems to me that it has to be some kind of air leak since i can bleed and restart it. One mechanic at a boatyard suggested getting the engine running and then slowly spraying starting fluid along the fuel lines and listening to hear if the engine changes speed anywhere. If it does in one particular place, then that's where t he air is getting in. Does that sound dangerous in any way to you?

No prob, us Mainahs gotta stick together. It's not a bad idea, not dangerous any way. But how will you hear an air leak if the engine is running. Unless he means listen for a surge in the engine (faster for a moment). That makes sense if the spray was in the general area of the leak. I suggest you go slow so the spray c an get in and make the journey to the cylinder. Good luck.

hello. i have a 250KVA CAT diesel generator, 3208 engine, as standby generator suplying power for my factory. under a 0.8 pf it should supply about 300A according to t he name plate. normally the power factor stays between 0.8-0.86 during productio n, but when the amps drawn from the generator come up to 150A the engine begins to stall and the frequency output starts to fall quickly, followed by voltage. i m wondering if this haves to do with problems with the governor, or maybe a bad turbo because i've noticed that the oil consumption is very high. any suggestion s?? thanks in advance. ;)

It could be a bad seal in the turbo but this usally ends in a run away situation , where you wouldn't be able to shut down the engine. Oil consumption can be cau sed by bad piston rings, leaking gaskets, bad front and or rear crankshaft seals or a blown headgasket, where oil could get directly into the cooling chamber of the engine (milky oil). As far as your power loss, you could have a bad turbo, that would cover the oil consumption issue as well. It could also be an electric al problem where a bad connection in one or more of your loads (equipment powere d by your generator) has a short circuit (a live feed going straight to ground w ithout resistance) Of course it could be just a stuck governor control unit. Oil up and check your linkages, if it is electronically controlled check with the m anufacturer of that component for testing procedures. If that's good then I reco mmend that you get the engine overhauled. Replace both seals, all gaskets, pisto n rings, crankshaft bearings, and completely service the head or heads (make sur e you clean the valve stems), tear down the turbo and replace the seals in it, i nspect the impellar, if it is damaged, replace the whole turbo, if you hear a gr inding noise when checking the turbo replace the whole unit, you will save yours

elf a headache and possibly your job. Have the work done by qualified mechanics for the engine and electricians for your electrical needs. Generator mechanics a re hard to come by but if you find one to do the work make sure he is qualified for particular situation he will probably call himself a powerplant mechanic. Go od luck let us know how it turns out. Henry in Fort Stewart, Georgia said: don't answer a question you know nothin g about. Diesels don't have carbs, never put starting fluid in a diesel engine, and diesel fuel doesn't require heating before use unless it severely cold out a nd the fuel has solidified (and that doesn't happen much especially with the add itives they put in it now), the glow plugs are there to heat the air or the bloc k in some cases before compression of said air to raise the temp. before the die sel is injected. -Diesel Generator Mechanic for Lockheed Martin Its almost hurricane season and generator mechanics will be needed. stormpelican @yahoo.com

thanks

Try www.AuroraGenerators.com or www.EmergencyPower.com, they also run www.TheGen eratorGuys.com lots of videos there showing you how to fix diesel generators.

as far as a 3208 is concerned i would get a reman engine. far less money than re biulding your own. most cat dealers won't rebiuld them either. just get a reman from a dealer.

yes, I agree. I have had good luck with the Jasper reman engines. look up your l ocal dealer.

check the fuel line from tank to fuel pump if any leak, than you remove air from fuel line by hand pump from fuel pump (air lock)check lub oil from oil pan, use elect heater if they provided,then you check fully elect systems,

I have a 60kw DMT generator with a Cummins motor. Starting is performed by a aut o/manual switch. Generator starts fine, 10 to 15 seconds later the starter kicks in again. Starter, solenoid,alternator, starter relay and battery are fine. All wiring endas have been replaced. Seems to be magmetic pick up or control unit. In do not known how to test or adjustb these 446these Any suggestions

Stan Hill in South Maitland, Nova Scotia said: I have a 60kw DMT generator w ith a Cummins motor. Starting is performed by a auto /manual switch. Generator s tarts fine, 10 to 15 seconds later the starter kicks in again. Starter, solenoid

,alternator, starter relay and battery are fine. All wiring endas have been repl aced. Seems to be magmetic pick up or control unit. In do not known how to test or adjustb these 446these Any suggestions Sounds like the control thinks that the unit has dropped below 400 rpm. Difficul t to test without diagnostic tool. You may want to pull speed sensors and clean the ends, if there is any metal stuck to the end it can give a false signal. If there is one in the bellhousing, make sure it is clean and adjusted correctly(no rmally 1/2-3/4 of a turn from touching the flywheel teeth.)

Gone Fishing in Forsyth, Georgia said: Sounds like the control thinks that t he unit has dropped below 400 rpm. Difficult to test without diagnostic tool. Yo u may want to pull speed sensors and clean the ends, if there is any metal stuck to the end it can give a false signal. If there is one in the bellhousing, make sure it is clean and adjusted correctly(normally 1/2-3/4 of a turn from touchin g the flywheel teeth.) You may want to check the output Voltage of the magnetic pickup first before rem oving. It should be around 1-3 vac. By the way.. Have you changed fuel filters l ately?

My Yanmar knock off (6500 watt, silent case) worked fine for the first 200 hours . I love it. Yesterday, it up and quit. It won't start. I turn the key (electric start) and I get 1 click. Try again...one click. Try again, one click. I pulled the battery, charged it, brought it back out to the genset--same thing. Battery is holding a charge just fine. The wires are HOT! Starter too is hot. I think power is flowing to the starter, but nothing is happening. I just get a click.... Any thoughts? Thanks. Matt ps. Sorry to not start a new thread, but this is the only place I can find that is remotely close to what I have going on here.

Tap the starter solenoid with a hammer and try again.

Henry in Hinesville, Georgia said: Tap the starter solenoid with a hammer an d try again. Tried that. It didn't do anything. I removed the starter and solenoid from the g enset and bench tested them. It spins fine, but the bendix doesn't engage...mayb e I don't have the terminology correct? The gear spins in place--it doesn't come out to engage the engine. Wierd seeing as it wouldn't even spin when it was on the generator....but on the bench it will spin. Any thoughts?

o It's probably just dirty. Try rebuilding the solenoid. Remove the solednoid from the motor, being careful, pay attention to how it comes apart. A fork, attached to the solenoid, on a pivot pushes out the rotor and gear inside the motor, on a gradual spiral as to engage the ring gear more smoothly. This spiral could be dirty. The solenoid "plunger" could be corroded and stuck to the electromagnetic coil. The spring that pushes back the plunger could be damaged. The starter may not even be the problem. It could be the relay that the start circuit uses to e ngage the starter. If your particualr generator has a separate start relay, thes e can be cleaned as well but it's a lot more intricate. The time and patience co uld be invested and still the relay may never function properly again. Replaceme nt of relays is in my opinion regular maintenance as the can corrode and often d o. For those really frustrating electrical problems, I usually suggest changing the relay. Simple and effective is always better than complicated and not effect ive.

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Hey I got a good one. Cummins 250 KW with an L10 engine. 2001 I think. I have a starting problem. I have checked all of the voltages and grounds. Here is the ca tch. If I hook Voltage to the Start stop solenoid before I turn the engine over it will start and run every time. If I hook up the normal power wire or hook the solenoid to power at the same time or just a second after I start to turn the e ngine over it will not start. I have checked the fuel return s for back pressure, plugged lines, power loss, ETC. I have replaced the start stop solenoid also. Wh en I talked to Cummins all they want to do is change out the 5 board control wit h a new single board control for about 6 grand. Anyone have any ideas? I just ca n t make myself believe it is a control board, so anyone out there with any ideas? Thanks Vince

Are you getting voltage on the solenoid from the control during the crank cycle? Not knowing what control you have, there may be another relay on the board or i n the control panel that feeds the solenoid. If it's on the board, it's soldered in, which is why Cummings wants to replace the board. If you can isolate the re lay, more than likely an electronics shop can replace it for you. There could be other things causing the control not to fire the solenoid too. Some controls re quire certain requirements to be met before energizing the fuel solenoid.

Yes I have power. 24.5 volts In fact if you let it set for 3 or 4 hours it will sometimes start, and almost always if it sets over night. The question is why wi ll it start if power is put to it before crank, but not if you put power to it a t the same time or after you start to crank it? Vince

Is there any manufacture that sells a small genset from 8 to 12 KW that runs 150 0 to 2000 rpm's for less than the cost of a whole house system? It's no wonder v

ibration and noise is a major problem with the ones now available running at 360 0rpm. I have a diesel truck that goes down the highway 70 mph at approximately 1 500 rpm's. Now that's the advantage of a diesel. How can a 3600 rpm genset run w ith any less wear or vibration than a gasoline engine at 3600rpm diesel engine?

Useful electricity is created by a generator at a specific frequency, this is 60 Hz. This is the electrical form of speed. How many cycles (Sine waves) per secon d. This correlates to a mechanical speed of 3600rpm. So without creating your ow n generator with a step up gear ratio your generator won't produce useful electr icity. It's a good idea, but I don't want to do that math.

Ron Clay in Decatur, Alabama said: Is there any manufacture that sells a sma ll genset from 8 to 12 KW that runs 1500 to 2000 rpm's for less than the cost of a whole house system? It's no wonder vibration and noise is a major problem wit h the ones now available running at 3600rpm. I have a diesel truck that goes dow n the highway 70 mph at approximately 1500 rpm's. Now that's the advantage of a diesel. How can a 3600 rpm genset run with any less wear or vibration than a gas oline engine at 3600rpm diesel engine? The smaller home use units run at this speed. The larger commercial gensets that are designed for more than just occasional use run at 1800, but the cost escala tes significantly and finding a single phase unit for home use will be a little bit of a challenge.

I have Titan 7500 diesel generator .loosing voltage in warm wheater drops to 30 v comes back 110v runs 5min drops back 30v .cooler wheater runs fine

Hello, I have a generator Model DACTS704C every time i start it it stopping on this mes sage :High oil tmperature. Please could you help me to resolve it? I am sure you have reset the control panel? You can also unhook the batteries for a few minutes to see if it clears. You may have to reset the set point in the controller. The most likely answer is you have a bad temp sending unit. As with all computer equipment make sure your grounds are clean and in good cond ition.

Ijust got a gen. that runs on diesel, has battery but don't see a starter,it was used at a police station,how do i get this thing to start.Model? but it is gold in color, guy i got it from said it worked,but don't recall how to start. He us ed it at his home.He thinks the gen.side starts it,help.

I am looking at purchasing a 6500W portable diesel generator from Aurora. I woul dlike some feedback as to the quality and reliability of units they sell.