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Hull Maintenance

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

By enrolling in this self-study course, you have demonstrated a desire to improve yourself and the Navy.
Remember, however, this self-study course is only one part of the total Navy training program. Practical
experience, schools, selected reading, and your desire to succeed are also necessary to successfully round
out a fully meaningful training program.

COURSE OVERVIEW: In completing this nonresident training course, you will demonstrate an
understanding of course materials by correctly answering questions on the following: safety; ship repair;
woodworking cuts and joints; small boat repair and deck coverings; tools and equipment; metallurgy;
introduction to cutting and welding; oxyacetylene cutting and welding; brazing and braze welding; metal-are
welding and cutting; nondestructive tests and inspection of welds; sheet metal layout and fabrication;
structural steel fabrication; shop mathematics; piping systems; piping system repairs; and sewage systems.

THE COURSE: This self-study course is organized into subject matter areas, each containing learning
objectives to help you determine what you should learn along with text and illustrations to help you
understand the information. The subject matter reflects day-to-day requirements and experiences of
personnel in the rating or skill area. It also reflects guidance provided by Enlisted Community Managers
(ECMs) and other senior personnel, technical references, instructions, etc., and either the occupational or
naval standards, which are listed in the Manual of Navy Enlisted Manpower Personnel Classifications
and Occupational Standards, NAVPERS 18068.

THE QUESTIONS: The questions that appear in this course are designed to help you understand the
material in the text.

VALUE: In completing this course, you will improve your military and professional knowledge.
Importantly, it can also help you study for the Navy-wide advancement in rate examination. If you are
studying and discover a reference in the text to another publication for further information, look it up.

1995 Edition Prepared by

HTC Michael Smart
HTC Arnold L. Steber

Published by

NAVSUP Logistics Tracking Number


1. Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1
2. Ship Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-1
3. Woodworking Cuts and Joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3- 1
4. Small Boat Repair and Deck Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-1
5. Tools and Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-1
6. Metallurgy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-1
7. Introduction to Welding and Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7-1
8. Oxyacetylene Cutting and Welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8- 1
9. Brazing and Braze Welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-1
10. Metal-Arc Welding and Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10- 1
11. Nondestructive Tests and Inspection of Welds . . . . . . . . . . . 11-1
12. Sheet Metal Layout and Fabrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-1
13. Structural Steel Fabrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13-1
14. Shop Mathematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-1
15. Piping Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15-1
16. Piping System Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-1
17. Sewage Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17-1
II. Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AII-1

INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . INDEX-1



Upon completion of this chapter, you will be able to do the following:

Identify the basic safety requirements, and how the role of responsibility
starts with you.
Identify various sources of information regarding safety.

Identify various warning signs, placards, tags, and labels.

Describe the safety precautions to be followed when working on or with
electrical welding equipment.
Describe the safety procedures to follow when working with chemicals and
Describe the safety procedures to follow when working on or with various
tools, equipment, and machinery.
Describe the safety procedure, and precautions to follow before and after
hotwork operations.
Describe the safety procedures to follow when performing cutting
Describe the Navy’s Hearing Conservation and Noise Abatement
Describe the Navy’s Heat Stress Control Program.

INTRODUCTION strictly observed. The primary goals of an effective

safety program are to protect personnel and material
It is Navy policy to provide a safe and healthy and to ensure that unsafe equipment operations do not
work place for all personnel. These conditions can be occur. As a petty officer or chief petty officer, you have
ensured through an aggressive and comprehensive the responsibility to recognize unsafe conditions and to
occupational safety and health program fully endorsed take appropriate actions to correct any discrepancies.
by the Secretary of the Navy and implemented through
the appropriate chain of command. Safety begins with A number of safety precautions that are likely to
you. concern HTs at one time or another are listed in this
chapter. You need to observe all of these precautions.
The material discussed in this chapter stresses the The purpose of this chapter is not to teach safety but to
importance of observing standard safety precautions and stress emphatically to all personnel that to work safely
procedures. As a Hull Technician, you will be working and to be safety conscious at all times is as much a part
with different types of equipment, such as electrical of their trade as may be any of its finer secrets or skills
welding equipment. All electrical equipment is and to keep forever in mind, in the execution of their
hazardous; therefore, all safety precautions must be duties, this one simple slogan: WORK SAFELY.

SAFETY RESPONSIBILITIES real instrument of safety is a careful and
safety-conscious worker.
All individuals have the responsibility to understand
and observe safety standards and regulations that are All personnel should make it a habit to observe the
established for the prevention of injury to themselves following “ten commandments of safety.”
and other people and damage to property and
equipment. As an individual, you have a responsibility 1. LEARN the safe way to do your job before you
to yourself and to your shipmates to do your part in start.
preventing mishaps. As a petty officer or chief petty
officer, you have the responsibility of setting a good 2. THINK safety and ACT safely at all times.
example; you cannot ignore safety regulations and
expect others to follow them. 3. OBEY safety rules and regulations—they are
for your protection.
Personnel should always observe the following
safety practices: 4. WEAR proper clothing and personal protective
equipment (PPE).
Observe all posted operating instructions and
safety precautions. 5. CONDUCT yourself properly at all
times—horseplay is prohibited.
Report any unsafe condition or any equipment
or material deficiency you think might be 6. OPERATE only the equipment you are
unsafe. authorized to use.

Warn others of hazards and the consequences 7. INSPECT tools and equipment for safe
of their failing to observe safety precautions. condition before starting work.

Wear or use approved protective clothing or 8. ADVISE your superior promptly of any unsafe
protective equipment. conditions or practice.

Report any injury or evidence of impaired 9. REPORT any injury immediately to your
health that occurs during your work or duty to superior.
your supervisor.
10. SUPPORT your safety program and take an
Exercise reasonable caution as appropriate to active part in safety meetings.
the situation in the event of an emergency or
other unforseen hazardous conditions. In addition to these rules, there are other good work
habits that will help you perform your job more
Inspect equipment and associated attachments efficiently as well as safely.
for damage before using the equipment. Be sure
the equipment is suited for the job. Remember: Mishaps seldom just happen; they are
caused. Another point to remember is to never let
Lessons learned from many industrial mishaps that familiarity breed contempt. Most mishaps could have
have been investigated and studied have been compiled been prevented had the individuals involved heeded the
into easily understandable booklets and pamphlets appropriate safety precautions. Preventing mishaps that
published to propagate and market safety awareness and are avoidable will help you in the Navy and possibly
familiarity with various rules and regulations. Also, determine whether or not you survive.
many safety devices and aides of all types have been
developed to save lives and to provide a means for PROMOTING SAFETY
avoiding mishaps. However, all of the safety literature,
devices, or aides that have been developed thus far and Promoting safety will require you to become safety
those that will be developed in the future can only help conscious to the point that you automatically consider
the one real instrument of safety play its part. That one safety in every job or operation. By safety reminders

and your personal example, you pass this safety Naval Ships’ Technical Manual, chapter
consciousness on to other personnel. 074—Provides general welding safety pre-
Personnel are also advised and informed on mishap
Safety precautions, as all rules, laws, or regulations, prevention through the following periodicals:
must be enforced. It is your duty to take appropriate
action any time you see someone disregarding a safety Fathom magazine, the afloat safety review, is
precaution. You should ensure that all jobs are done published bimonthly for the professional benefit of all
according to applicable safety precautions. hands by the Navy Safety Center. Fathom presents the
most accurate information currently available on the
Doing a job the safe way in some cases may take subject of shipboard mishap prevention.
a little longer or be a little more inconvenient, however,
there is no doubt as to the importance of doing it this Ships’ Safety Bulletin is published monthly by the
way. Navy Safety Center. This bulletin contains articles on
shipboard safety problems, trends, mishap briefs, and
Deckplate magazine is published bimonthly by the
To be an effective petty officer and supervisor, you Naval Sea Systems Command. This magazine contains
should become familiar with the types of safety information on the design, construction, conversion,
programs implemented throughout the Navy. You operation, maintenance, and repair of naval vessels and
should also be familiar with all safety directives and their equipment. It also contains articles on safety
precautions concerning your division. Safety hazards and their prevention.
instructions vary from command to command. This
makes it impossible to give you a complete listing of Flash, a monthly mishap prevention bulletin,
manuals and instructions with which you should be provides a summary of research from selected reports
familiar. Besides studying the information on safety of submarine hazards to assist in the prevention
described in this chapter and throughout this training program. It is intended to give advance coverage of
manual, you should read and have knowledge of the safety-related information while reducing individual
safety information in the following references: reading time.

Standard Organization and Regulations of the These publications, as well as notices and
U. S. Navy, OPNAVINST 3120.32B, chapter instructions distributed by the cognizant bureaus, make
7—Outlines the safety program and the safety excellent reference materials. When these publications
organization. are available, you should read them and incorporate
them into your training program.
Navy Occupational Safety and Health
(NAVOSH) Program Manual for Forces Afloat, Other sources of safety information that you will be
OPNAVINST 500.19C—Provides general dealing with on a day-to-day basis in your work as a
shipboard safety precautions and specific Hull Technician are manufacturers’ technical manuals
occupational health program guidance. and PMS maintenance requirement cards (MRCs).

Navy Occupational Safety and Health These are not all of the safety resources that are
(NAVOSH) Program Manual, OPNAVINST available to you. However, these sources give you a
5100.23C—Encompasses all safety disciplines, good starting point from which you can expand your
such as systems safety, aviation safety, knowledge of safety procedures. The Naval Safety
weapons/explosives safety, off-duty safety Supervisor, NAVEDTRA 12971, is also a very good
(recreation, public, and traffic), and resource for strengthening your awareness of safety
occupational safety and occupational health. procedures.


Warning signs, placards, tags, labels, and suitable

guards/markings should be provided to prevent
personnel from coming into accidental contact with
dangerous equipment; for warning personnel of the
possible presence of airborne contaminants as a result
of grinding operations; and for warning personnel of
other dangers that may cause injury to them. Equipment
installations should not be considered complete until
appropriate warning signs have been posted in full view
of operating and maintenance personnel.

Warning signs (red/white) and caution signs

(yellow/black) should be located in an area where
known hazardous conditions exist or may exist. Some
of the areas that are hazardous aboard ship include Figure 1-1.—A warning placard.
workshops, pump rooms, and machinery spaces.
However, hazards may be encountered anywhere aboard
ship. Remember, once a tag or label is used, it should
only be removed by signed authorization of the
Signs designating an entire space as hazardous must authorizing officer. You should always follow your
be posted at eye level or above in full and clear view of command’s procedures for logging and recording
entering personnel. Signs designating a specific piece of tag-out actions.
equipment as hazardous must be posted on or near
equipment (in full view of the equipment operator) that Markings consisting of paint or tape are used to
is particularly dangerous. designate safe traffic lanes, operator caution areas,
operator working areas, and observer safe areas.
Warning placards (fig. l-l) should be located on the
door to the entrance of any space where noise levels are Safe traffic lanes are designated in workshops.
consistently high, requiring single- or double-hearing These lanes start and stop at all exits and entrances for
protection. A warning placard should also be displayed workshops and are marked by continuous white lines,
on all portable equipment capable of emitting noise in 3 inches wide, painted on the deck.
excess of 84 dB(A) when operated. Remember that the
messages are aimed at YOU. It is your responsibility to Operator caution areas, operator working areas, and
“read and heed.” observer safe areas are designated for each equipment
working area deemed hazardous. Operator caution areas
Tags and labels are used in the Navy to identify a are marked by a continuous yellow tine, 3 inches wide,
defective piece of equipment or instrument. Tags and outlining the caution area. Operator work areas are
labels are also used to ensure the safety of personnel marked by painting the deck yellow in areas where it is
and to prevent improper operation of equipment. They safe for an operator of machinery or equipment. The
will be posted according to authorized procedures and outer perimeter of this area is designated by alternate
must not be removed or violated without proper black and yellow lines, or checkerboard pattern, 3
authorization and adequate knowledge of the inches wide. Observer safe areas are designated as all
consequences. areas outside of this perimeter and are the normal color
of the deck within the space.
The use of tags and labels is not a substitute for
other safety measures, such as locking valves or Eye hazardous areas are marked with a black and
removing fuses from a fuse panel. Also, tags or labels yellow checkerboard, or chevron, pattern and a label
associated with tag-out procedures must never be used plate made up of black letters on a yellow background
for anything other than their intended purpose. that reads: “WARNING EYE HAZARD.”


Safety equipment is for you. It will protect you Respirators and masks protect personnel from the
from injury and may possibly save your life. Some of inhalation of many toxic materials. The wearing of a
the more common types of safety equipment for your respirator is required when performing grinding,
personal protection are described in the following welding, brazing, and wood operations. It is also
paragraphs. required when you are exposed to high concentrations
of hazardous vapors or fumes. Respirators and masks
provide protection against aerosols, dusts, fumes, and
EYE PROTECTION vapors. Some respirators are disposable and others are
reusable. A filter or disposable respirator protects
Proper eye protection is of the highest importance against dust; and the reusable chemical cartridge type of
for all personnel. Eye protection is necessary because of air-purifying respirator protects against gaseous
hazards caused by infrared and ultraviolet radiation or contaminants. Particle masks, air line hose masks, and
by flying objects such as sparks, globules of molten vapor masks are also reusable.
metal, or chipped concrete and wood. These hazards are
always present during welding, cutting, soldering,
chipping, grinding, and a variety of other operations. It SAFETY HAZARDS AND
is absolutely necessary for you to use eye protection PRECAUTIONS
such as helmets, face shields, goggles, and safety
glasses during eye-hazard operations. Appropriate use HTs perform plan, supervise, and perform tasks
of goggles will limit eye hazards. Some goggles have necessary for fabrication, installation, and repair of all
plastic windows that resist shattering upon impact. types of shipboard structures, plumbing, and piping
Others are designed to limit harmful infrared and systems. This includes performing welding, cutting,
ultraviolet radiation from arcs or flames by use of brazing, and grinding operations. Because of this, HTs
appropriate filter lenses. Remember, eye damage can be must be aware of the general and specific safety
extremely painful. Protect your eyes. precautions involved in their work. The following
paragraphs will discuss some of the safety hazards and
HEARING PROTECTION precautions that you should be familiar with.

Proper hearing protection is a must when working MACHINE/EQUIPMENT SAFETY

with or around certain types of power tools. Some tools
are capable of producing dangerously high noise levels Before using any machine or piece of equipment,
which, if ignored, can result in serious hearing loss or you must be familiar with all safety precautions
injury. You should use hearing protection regularly. pertaining to its operation. Carelessness around any
Examples of hearing protection are aural hearing moving machinery is extremely dangerous. When
protectors, single-flanged earplugs, double-flanged moving machinery is equipped with sharp cutting tools,
earplugs, triple-flanged earplugs, and foam earplugs. the dangers are greatly increased. The following list
includes some of the more general safety precautions
for machines/equipment. Specific safety and operating
SAFETY SHOES/BOOTS precautions should be posted in plain sight on or by
every machine.
Safety shoes/boots protect and prevent injury or loss
of toes. Some safety shoes are designed to limit damage —Before operating a machine, make sure there is
to your toes or feet from falling objects. A steel plate is plenty of light to work by.
placed in the toe area of such shoes so that your toes
are not crushed if an object falls on them. Other safety —Do not distract the attention of a machine
shoes are designed for use where danger from sparking operator.
could cause an explosion. Such danger is minimized by
elimination of all metallic nails and eyelets and the use —Do not lean against any machine that is in
of soles that do not cause static electricity. Examples of motion. Keep clear of all gears, belts, and other moving
safety shoes are boondockers, high-steel toe, and molder parts. Never remove the guards from any part of an
boots. operating machine.

—Never start a machine unless you are thoroughly —When operating the brake press, place hands
familiar with its operation. under the plate. Be sure the head and upper body are
clear from the plate. Do not lean over the work while
—Do not attempt to clean, adjust, or repair a bending the plate.
machine while it is in motion. Shut off the power
supply to the machine. NEVER attempt to clean —Magnetic particle test equipment is capable of
running gears. producing current in excess of 600 amperes. Follow all
electrical safety precautions; failure to do so may result
—PROTECT YOUR EYES. Do not hold your head in serious injury or death.
too close to the cutting tool-flying bits of metal or
scale may get into your eyes. Always wear goggles —In all machine work, stress SAFETY first,
when there is any danger of flying particles getting in ACCURACY second, and SPEED last. Excessive
your eyes; for example, when using a grinding or speed is both dangerous and unproductive.
drilling machine.


appropriate hearing protection. Either aural hearing POWER TOOLS
protectors (mickey mouse ears) or ear plugs will reduce
the noise from running machinery. Prolonged exposure Safety is a very important factor in the use of
may damage your hearing. portable power tools and cannot be overemphasized.
The hazards associated with the use of portable power
—Keep your fingers away from the cutting edges tools are electric shock, cuts, flying particles,
when the machine is in operation; otherwise, you could explosions, and so on. Because you will be using
lose some fingers. portable power drills, hammers, and grinders in the
shop and out on the job, you should be thoroughly
—Do not wear gloves or loosely hanging clothes. familiar with the operation and care of these tools and
They can be caught by moving parts of the shop with all applicable safety precautions. The portable
machinery and cause serious injuries. Keep your power tools that you use may be powered by electric
sleeves rolled down and buttoned up tightly Do not motors or by air (pneumatic) motors. Whether
wear neckties or loose neckerchiefs. If clothing becomes electrically powered or air powered, the tools and
caught in a machine, shut off the power immediately. procedures for using them are basically the same. Safe
pratice in the use of these tools will reduce or eliminate
—When using portable electric equipment around the mishap potential. By observing the following safety
machine tools, take special care so that electrical cords guidelines, you can ensure maximum benefits from the
are clear of moving parts. tools you use and reduce to a minimum the chances of
—Do not exceed the recommended depth of cut, serious injury.
cutting speeds, and feeds.
Never operate any portable power tools unless
—Keep areas around machines clear of obstructions you are completely familiar with their controls
and ensure a nonskid surface is available for the and features.
equipment operator.
Inspect all portable power tools before using
—Remove chips with a brush or other suitable tool; them. See that they are clean and in good
never by hand or with compressed air. condition.

—When operating the brake press, always Make sure there is plenty of light in the work
disconnect the foot switches and ensure that the area. Never work with power tools in dark
eccentrics are in the bottom stroke before setting or areas where you cannot see clearly.
adjusting the punch and die.
Before connecting power tools to a power
—Place eccentrics on the bottom center of the drop source, be sure the tool switch is in the OFF
shear bed. position.

When operating a power tool, give it your full CHEMICAL/SOLVENT HAZARDS
and undivided attention.
Exposure to chemical hazards may cause significant
Do not distract or in any way disturb another health problems. Solvents are capable of damaging your
person while they are operating a power tool. respiratory system in cases of prolonged inhalation.
Chemicals and solvents come in the form of gas, vapor,
Never try to clear a jammed power tool until it mist, dust, or fumes. Materials ordinarily thought to be
is disconnected from the power source. safe may be rendered hazardous under certain use
conditions by the uninformed user. As an HT, you will
After using a power tool, turn off the power, inevitably come into contact with various
disconnect the power source, wait for all chemicals/solvents. Most of these chemicals will have
movement of the tool to stop, and then remove some type of hazard associated with them. Among these
all waste and scraps from the work area. Store hazards are irritants, toxics, corrosives, and flammables.
the tool in its proper place.
Personnel engaged in the handling and use of
Do not allow power cords to come in contact chemicals must always use appropriate protective
with sharp objects, nor should they kink or equipment for the class of chemical being used.
come in contact with oil, grease, hot surfaces,
or chemicals. Such protective equipment includes, but is not
limited to, the following items:
Never use a damaged cord. Replace it
immediately. Rubber gloves, boots, and aprons
Check electrical cables and cords frequently for Air masks, respirators, and filter masks
overheating. Use only approved extension
cords, if needed. Eye protection, goggles, and face shields
Always connect the cord of a portable power
Protective skin creams, when sensitive or skin
tool into the extension cord before the
irritants are used
extension cord is inserted into a live receptacle.

Always unplug the extension cord from the Any other protective equipment that is
receptacle before the cord of the portable power necessary
tool is unplugged from the extension cord.
Following is a list of safety precautions that you
See that all cables and cords are positioned should observe when using and handling chemicals/
carefully so they do not become tripping solvents:
—Review the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
Treat electricity with respect. If water is present for any chemical prior to using or handling it.
in the area of electrical tool operation, be
extremely cautious and, if necessary, disconnect —Do not work alone in a poorly ventilated space.
the power tool.
—Do not apply solvents to warm or hot equipment,
The air pressure for any pneumatic tool must since this increases the potential evaporation rate
not exceed 90 psi. making it more hazardous.

Never point the air hose at another person. —Never use a solvent in the presence of any open
When working with pneumatic tools, always
stand so you are properly balanced while —Place a fire extinguisher close by, ready for use.
working so you will not slip and lose control of
the tool. —Hold the nozzle close to the object being sprayed.

—Personnel who use potential irritants, such as be provided, organic respirators are required for
epoxy, resins, and hardeners, should avoid direct skin protection against vapors.
contact. Should contact be made with an irritant, the
area should be washed thoroughly with soap and water. —Always wash exposed skin areas thoroughly
Irritants require no special storage other than that when you are finished working.
required by their other properties, such as flammability
or toxicity. WELDING HAZARDS
—All hazardous materials used by the Navy is
required to be correctly labeled. As an HT, one of your main jobs will be welding.
You must use extreme care when welding. Safety must
—In compliance with the Occupational Safety and always be practiced by people working around or with
Health Administration (OSHA). a fire resistant arc welding equipment. Welding performed with proper
hydraulic fluid must be used when filling the reservoir safety equipment presents no great safety hazards. You
of a hydraulic power rig. should learn the correct procedures for arc welding in
order that the hazards that exist may be properly
—Dispose of solvent-soaked rags in a container observed and eliminated, and, if possible, injury
designed for flammable disposal. Wear rubber avoided.
protective gloves when handling solvents and be sure
that ventilation is adequate. The chief hazards to be avoided in arc welding are
as follows:
—Do not allow eating, drinking, or smoking in the Radiation from the arc, in the form of
area where solvents are being used. Any chemicals or ultraviolet and infrared rays
solvents should be handled with caution.
Flying sparks and globules of molten metal
—Cutting and grinding of reinforced plastic
laminates generate a fine dust that irritates the skin and Electric shock
eyes. Inhalation of the dust should be avoided.
Metal fumes
—Keep chemical containers clearly labeled and
tightly covered when they are not in use. When mixing Burns
a polyester resin, never mix the catalyst and accelerator
directly together or an explosion may result. Always Radiation from the arc presents some dangers. Eyes
mix chemicals according to instructions. must be protected from radiation from the arc by use of
an arc welding helmet or face shield with approved
—Many solvents give off toxic vapors and are lenses.
dangerous upon contact with the skin. Wear respirators
and rubber gloves, as appropriate, when handling Your face, hands, arms, and other skin surfaces
solvents and ensure that the working area is well must be covered to prevent exposure to the radiation.
ventilated. Gloves should be worn and other parts of the body
covered by clothing of sufficient weight to shut out the
—Do not use solvents and degreasers of the rays of the arc. Without proper clothing, burns
halogen family (for example, freon and trichloroethane) comparable to sunburn will result.
near the cutting operation, because light from the arc
can break them down into toxic components (phosgene When possible, all arc welding operations should be
gas). shielded so that no one may accidentally look directly
at the arc or have it shine or reflect into their eyes. An
—If clothing becomes contaminated, remove it and arc “flash” may cause a person to be temporarily
wash it thoroughly before reuse. blinded, by causing the person to see a white spot
similar to a photographer's flash. The severity of an arc
—When working in confined spaces, be sure there flash and the time it will take to recover varies with the
is adequate ventilation. Where such ventilation cannot length of time a person was exposed to the arc. A long

exposure has been known to cause permanent damage process will burn skin. Gas welding can also cause
to the retina of the eye. If someone is severely radiation burns due to infrared rays emitted by the red
“flashed,” special treatment should be administered at hot material. Flame-resistant or flame-retardant clothing
once by medical personnel. must be worn and the hair protected at all times.

Arc welding is usually accompanied by flying —Fluxes used in certain welding and brazing
sparks, which present a hazard if they strike unprotected processes produce vapors that are irritating to the eyes,
skin, lodge on flammable clothing, or hit any other nose, throat, and lungs. Oxides produced by these
flammable material. When arc welding, you should volatile elements are very poisonous. Therefore,
wear suitable weight clothing and cuffless trousers. welding must be performed in a well-ventilated area
Cover your pockets so they will not collect sparks, and and approved safety goggles must always be worn. The
remove any flammable materials, such as matches, darkest shade of the goggles that still show a clear
plastic combs, or gas lighters. You should also ensure outline of the work without producing eyestrain are
that you wear the proper foot protection. High top boots recommended. Sun glasses are not adequate.
or boondockers with steel toes should be worn.
—Do not smoke or work near hot surfaces or open
Hot metal will cause severe bums and should never flames.
be handled with bare hands until it has cooled naturally
or has been quenched in the quenching tank. Therefore, SOLDERING AND BRAZING
you should use leather gloves with tight fitting cuffs SAFETY PRACTICES
that fit over the sleeves of the jacket. Many welders
wear a full set of leathers that consists of the following: Soldering or brazing with or on alloys containing
cadmium or beryllium can be extremely hazardous.
Jacket or set of sleeves Fumes from cadmium or beryllium compounds are
extremely toxic. In fact, several deaths have been
Gauntlet gloves reported from inhaling cadmium oxide fumes.

Leggings Skin contact with cadmium and beryllium should

also be avoided. An expert in industrial hygiene should
Spats be consulted whenever cadmium or beryllium
compounds are to be used or when repairs are to be
Apron made on parts containing the metals.

Welders hat liner Fluxes containing fluoride compounds are also

toxic. Good ventilation is essential when soldering or
Following is a list of other safety precautions that brazing and the operator must always observe good
you should keep in mind when performing welding safety practices.
A common hazard when soldering is exposure of
—The possibility of dangerous electric shock can be the skin, eyes, and clothing to acid fluxes. You should
avoided by using insulated electrode holders and observe the following safety precautions when soldering
wearing dry leathers and gloves. When possible, avoid or brazing:
using arc welding equipment in wet or damp areas.
ARC WELDING SHOULD NEVER BE DONE IN AN —Always work in a way that flux will not be
AREA THAT IS NOT WELL VENTILATED. spilled on the skin or clothing.

—Use a welding helmet with a No. 10 or No. 12 —Always wear chemical splashproof goggles,
shade along with good quality work clothing and rubber gloves, and long sleeves when using cleaning
gauntlet-type gloves. Wear ear protection when solutions, pickling solutions, or acids.
sound-pressure levels exceed 84 dB(A).
—If at any time you are exposed to any chemical
—In gas welding, the high temperatures of the solutions, acids, or fluxes, wash the affected area at
welding flame and the sparks created by the welding once, and seek medical attention immediately.

—Remember, heating soldering coppers sometimes FIRST AID
presents a fire hazard if an open flame is used. Be sure
all flammable material is removed or kept away from You must always observe safety precautions when
the heating flames. working on equipment or operating machinery. Because
of the danger of electric shock from equipment and
—Make sure there are no flammable vapors present, operating machinery, the possibility of receiving burns
such as gasoline, acetylene, or other flammable gases, from welding, and the possibility of a body part being
where the hot work is to be performed. cut when performing cutting operations, it is important
that you know and be able to perform the proper action
—No job should ever be started until all safety when a mishap occurs. The following paragraphs will
precautions have been taken, and the fire marshal briefly describe some of first-aid techniques that you
notified, if applicable. should be familiar with.

PRECAUTIONS Methods of resuscitating or reviving an electrical
shock victim include artificial ventilation (to reestablish
Another part of your job will involve cutting breathing) and cardiopulmonary resuscitation (to
operations such as oxyacetylene cutting and plasma arc reestablish heartbeat and blood circulation).
cutting. Observe the following safety precautions when
performing any cutting operation: Artificial Ventilation

—Never place hands or fingers between the metal A person who has stopped breathing is not
plate and the bed. Never place hands under the necessarily dead, but is in immediate critical danger.
holddowns or knife. Ensure that all personnel are clear Life depends on oxygen that is breathed into the lungs
from the piece being cut. and then carried by the blood to every body cell. Since
body cells cannot store oxygen, and since the blood can
—Ensure that the plate is supported so that injuries hold only a limited amount (and only for a short time),
death will surely result from continued lack of
to personnel can be avoided if the cut end of the metal
falls away. breathing.

The heart may continue to beat and the blood may

—When using oxyacetylene cutting equipment,
still be circulated to the body cells for some time after
ensure that the work area is gas-free. This is particularly
breathing has stopped. Since the blood will, for a short
important when working in bilges and other spaces
time, contain a small supply of oxygen, the body cells
where dangerous vapors may collect.
will not die immediately. Thus, for a very few minutes,
there is some chance that the person’s life may be
—The high-pressure oxygen stream used in cutting saved. A person who has stopped breathing but who is
with an oxyacetylene torch can throw molten metal for still alive is said to be in a state of respiratory failure.
a distance of 50 to 60 feet. Always post a fire watch to The first-aid treatment for respiratory failure is called
protect the surrounding areas and personnel. artificial ventilation/respiration.
—When using oxyacetylene cutting equipment, The purpose of artificial ventilation is to provide a
ensure that any interfering system has been removed method of air exchange until natural breathing is
and tagged out, if necessary. reestablished. Artificial ventilation should be given only
when natural breathing has stopped; it must NOT be
—Install all covers, insulators, and handles before given to any person who is still breathing. Do not
attempting to operate the plasma arc cutting equipment. assume that breathing has stopped merely because a
person is unconscious or because a person has been
—When using plasma arc cutting equipment, open rescued from an electrical shock Remember, DO NOT
all primary disconnect switches before charging any GIVE ARTIFICIAL VENTILATION TO A PERSON
electrical connections. WHO IS BREATHING NATURALLY. There are two

methods of administering artificial ventilation: mouth- Wounds are classified according to their general
to-mouth and mouth-to-nose. condition, size, location, how the skin or tissue is
broken, and the agent that caused the wound.
For additional information on performing artificial
ventilation, refer to Standard First Aid Training Course, When you consider the manner in which the skin or
NAVEDTRA 10081-D. tissue is broken, there are four general kinds of wounds:
abrasions, incisions, lacerations, and punctures.
Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation
When there is a complete stoppage of heart
function, the victim has suffered a cardiac arrest. The Abrasions are made when the skin is rubbed or
signs include the absence of a pulse, because the heart scraped off. Rope bums, floor burns, and skinned knees
is not beating, and the absence of breathing. In this or elbows are common examples of abrasions. There is
situation, the immediate administration of usually minimal bleeding or oozing of clear fluid.
cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) by a rescuer using
correct procedures greatly increases the chances of a Incisions
victim’s survival.
CPR consists of external heart compression and Incisions, commonly called cuts, are wounds made
artificial ventilation. The compressions are performed with a sharp instrument, such as a knife, razor, or
by pressing the chest with the heel of your hands, and broken glass. Incisions tend to bleed very freely because
the lungs are ventilated either by mouth-to-mouth or the blood vessels are cut straight across.
mouth-to-nose techniques. To be effective, CPR must
be started within 4 minutes of the onset of cardiac Lacerations
Lacerations are wounds that are torn, rather than
cut. They have ragged, irregular edges and masses of
torn tissue underneath. These wounds are usually made
CAUTION by blunt forces, rather than sharp objects. They are
often complicated by crushing of the tissues as well.
CPR should not be attempted by a
rescuer who has not been properly trained. Punctures
Improperly done, CPR can cause serious
damage to a victim. Therefore, CPR is Punctures are caused by objects that penetrate some
NEVER practiced on a healthy individual. distance into the tissues while leaving a relatively small
For training purposes, a training aid is used surface opening. As a rule, small punctures do not bleed
instead. To learn CPR, you should take an freely; however, large puncture wounds may cause
approved course from a qualified CPR severe internal bleeding.
A puncture wound can be classified as penetrating
or perforating. A perforation differs from a penetration
For additional information on administering CPR, in that it has an exit as well as an entrance site.
refer to Standard First Aid Training Course,
NAVEDTRA 10081-D. For additional information on the treatment of
wounds refer to Standard First Aid Training Course,

A wound, or breaking of the skin, is another BLEEDING

problem that could be the result of an electrical shock.
You could accidentally suffer an electrical shock, which The first-aid methods that are used to stop serious
could cause a loss of balance. This could result in a bleeding depend upon the application of pressure.
minor or serious injury. Because you could be in a Pressure may be applied in three ways: (1) directly to
critical situation to save someone’s life, or even your the wound, (2) at key pressure points throughout the
own, you should know the basics of first aid. body, and (3) with a tourniquet.

Direct Pressure body, since its use in these locations would result in
greater injury or death. A tourniquet should be used on
You should try the direct-pressure method first to an injured limb only as a last resort for severe,
control bleeding. Place a sterile first-aid dressing, when life-threatening hemorrhaging that cannot be controlled
available, directly over the wound. Tie the knot only by any other method. A tourniquet must be applied
tight enough to stop the bleeding, and firmly fasten it ABOVE the wound—that is, towards the trunk—and it
in position with a bandage. In the absence of sterile must be applied as close to the wound as practicable.
dressings, use a compress made with a clean rag,
handkerchief, or towel to apply direct pressure to the Any long, flat material can be used as a band for a
wound, as in figure 1-2. If the bleeding does not stop, tourniquet—belts, stockings, flat strips of rubber, or a
firmly secure another dressing over the first dressing, or neckerchief. Only tighten the tourniquet enough to stop
apply direct pressure with your hand or fingers over the the flow of blood. Use a marker, skin pencil, crayon, or
dressing. Under no circumstances is a dressing to be blood, and mark a large T on the victim’s forehead.
removed once it is applied.

Pressure Points
If the direct-pressure method does not stop the
Remember, a tourniquet is only used as
bleeding, use the pressure point nearest the wound, as
a last resort to control bleeding that cannot
shown in figure 1-3. Bleeding from a cut artery or vein
be controlled by other means. Tourniquets
may often be controlled by applying pressure to the
appropriate pressure point. A pressure point is a place should be removed as soon as possible by
medical personnel only.
where the main artery to the injured part lies near the
skin surface and over a bone. Pressure at such a point
is applied with the fingers or with the hand; no first-aid
materials are required. Pressure points should be used BURNS
with caution, as they may cause damage to the limb as
a result of an inadequate flow of blood. When the use The causes of burns are generally classified as
of pressure points is necessary, do not substitute them thermal, electrical, chemical, or radiation. Whatever the
for direct pressure; use both. cause, shock always results if the burns are extensive.

Use of a Tourniquet Thermal burns are caused by exposure to intense

heat, such as that generated by fire, bomb flash,
A tourniquet is a constricting band that is used to sunlight, hot liquids, hot solids, and hot gases. Their
cut off the supply of blood to an injured limb. It cannot care depends upon the severity of the bum and the
be used to control bleeding from the head, neck, or percentage of the body area involved.

Electrical burns are caused by electric current

passing through tissues or the superficial wound caused
by electrical flash. They may be far more serious than
they first appear. The entrance wound may be small;
but as electricity penetrates the skin, it burns a large
area below the surface. Usually there are two external
burn areas: one where the current enters the body, and
another where it leaves.

Chemical burns for the most part are not caused by

heat, but by direct chemical destruction of body tissues.
When acids, alkalies, or other chemicals come in
contact with the skin or other body membranes, they
can cause injuries that are generally referred to as
Figure 1-2.—Direct pressure.
chemical burns. The areas most often affected are the
extremities, mouth, and eyes. Alkali burns are usually

Figure 1-3.—Pressure points for control of bleeding.

more serious than acid burns, because they penetrate Radiation burns are the result of prolonged
deeper and burn longer. When chemical burns occur, exposure to the ultraviolet radiation. First- and
emergency measures must be carried out immediately. second-degree burns may develop. Treatment is
Do not wait for the arrival of medical personnel. essentially the same as that for thermal bums.

Classification of Burns Emergency Treatment of Burns

Burns are classified in several ways: by the extent The degree of the burn, as well as the skin area
of the burned surface, by the depth of the burn, and by involved, determines the procedures used in the
the cause of the burn. The extent of the body surface treatment of burns. Large skin areas require a different
burned is the most important factor in determining the approach than small areas. To estimate the amount of
seriousness of the burn and plays the greatest role in the skin area affected, the extent of burned surface, the
victim's chances of survival. “Rule of Nines” (fig. 1-5) is used. These figures aid
in determining the correct treatment for the burned
Burns may also be classified as first, second, or
third degree, based on the depth of skin damage (fig.
1-4). First-degree burns are mildest. Symptoms are
reddening of the skin and mild pain. Second-degree As a guideline, consider that burns exceeding 15
burns are more serious. Symptoms include blistering of percent of the body surface will cause shock; burns
the skin, severe pain, some dehydration, and possible exceeding 20 percent of the body surface endanger life;
shock. Third-degree burns are worst of all. The skin is and bums covering more than 30 percent of the body
destroyed and possibly the muscle tissue and bone in surface are usually fatal if adequate medical treatment
severe cases. The skin may be charred or it may be is not received.
white or lifeless. This is the most serious type of burn,
as it produces a deeper state of shock and will cause Minor burns, such as first-degree burns over less
more permanent damage. It is usually not as painful as than 20 percent of the body area and small
a second-degree burn because the sensory nerve endings second-degree bums, do not usually require immediate
have been destroyed. medical attention unless they involve the facial area.

Figure 1-4.—First-, second-, and third-degree burns.

used because lint may contaminate and further irritate
the injured tissue. When hands and feet are burned,
dressings must be applied between the fingers and toes
to prevent skin surfaces from sticking to each other.

Do not attempt to break blisters, and do not

remove shreds of tissue or adhered particles of charred
clothing. Never apply greasy substances (butter, lard, or
petroleum jelly), antiseptic preparations, or ointments.

If the victim is conscious and not vomiting, prepare

a weak solution of salt (1 teaspoon) and baking soda
(l/2 teaspoon) in a quart of warm water. Allow the
victim to sip the drink slowly. Aspirin is also effective
for the relief of pain.

Treat for shock. Maintain the victim’s body heat,

but do not allow the victim to become overheated. If
the victim’s hands, feet, or legs are burned, elevate
them higher than the heart.

ELECTRICAL BURNS.—In electrical shock

cases, burns may have to be ignored temporarily while
the patient is being revived. After the patient is revived,
lightly cover the burn with a dry, preferably sterile,
dressing, treat for shock, and transport the victim to a
medical facility.
Figure 1-5.—Rule of Nines.
CHEMICAL BURNS.—To treat most chemical
burns, you should begin flushing the area immediately
with large amounts of water. Do not apply the water
THERMAL BURNS.—When emergency treat- too forcefully. If necessary, remove the victim’s
ment of the more serious thermal burns is required, first clothing, including shoes and socks, while flushing.
check the victim for respiratory distress. Burns around
the face or exposure to hot gases or smoke may cause Water should not be used for alkali burns caused by
the airway to swell shut. If facial burns are present, dry lime unless large amounts of water are available for
place the victim in a sitting position to further ease rapid and complete flushing. When water and lime are
breathing. Transport the victim with facial burns to a mixed they create a very corrosive substance. Dry lime
medical facility as soon as possible. should be brushed from the skin and clothing.

Remove all jewelry and similar articles, even from Isopropyl or rubbing alcohol should be used to treat
unburned areas, since severe swelling may develop acid burns caused by phenol (carbolic acid). Phenol is
rapidly. not water soluble; therefore, water should only be used
after first washing with alcohol or if alcohol is not
To relieve pain initially, apply cold compresses to available.
the affected area or submerge it in cold water. Cold
water not only minimizes pain, but also reduces the For chemical burns of the eye, flush immediately
burning effects in the deep layers of the skin. Gently with large amounts of fresh, clean water. Acid bums
pat dry the area with a lint-free cloth or gauze. should be flushed at least 15 minutes, and alkali burns
for as long as 20 minutes. If the victim cannot open the
Cover the burned area with a sterile dressing, clean eyes, hold the eyelids apart so water can flow across the
sheet, or unused plastic bag. Coverings such as blankets eyes. After thorough irrigation, loosely cover both eyes
or other materials with a rough texture should not be with a clean dressing.

The after care for all chemical burns is similar to Periodic hearing testing must be conducted to
that for thermal burns. Cover the affected area and get monitor the effectiveness of the program.
the victim to a medical facility as soon as possible.
Navy personnel must be educated on the
RADIATION BURNS.—For first- and second- Hearing Conservation Program to ensure the
degree sunburns, treatment is essentially the same as for overall success of the program.
thermal burns. If the bum is not serious, and the victim
does not need medical attention, apply commercially IDENTIFYING AND LABELING
prepared sunburn lotions and ointments. OF NOISE AREAS AND EQUIPMENT

For further information on the treatment of burns, Hazardous noise areas and equipment must be so
refer to Standard First Aid Training Course, designated and appropriately labeled. Areas and
NAVEDTRA 10081-D. equipment that produce continuous and intermittent
sound levels greater than 84 dB(A) or impact or
impulse levels of 140 db peak are considered
An industrial hygienist with a noise level meter will
Historically, hearing loss has been recognized as an identify the noise hazardous areas. Noise hazardous
occupational hazard related to certain trades, such as areas will be labeled using a hazardous noise warning
blacksmithing and boilermaking. Modern technology decal, NAVMED 6260/2 (fig. 1-6). This decal will be
has extended the risk to many other activities: using posted at all accesses. Hazardous noise labels,
presses, forging hammers, grinders, saws, internal NAVMED 6260/2A, are the approved labels for
combustion engines, or similar high-speed, high-energy marking portable and installed equipment.
processes. Exposure to high-intensity noise occurs as a
result of either impact noise, such as gunfire or rocket All personnel that are required to work in
fire, or from continuous noise, such as jet or propeller designated noise hazardous areas or with equipment that
aircraft, marine engines, and machinery. produces sound levels greater than 84 db(A) or 140 db
sound/pressure levels are entered in the hearing
Hearing loss has been and continues to be a source conservation program.
of concern within the Navy, both ashore and afloat.
Hearing loss attributed to such occupational exposure to
hazardous noise, the high cost of related compensation
claims, and the resulting drop in productivity and
efficiency have highlighted a significant problem that
requires considerable attention. The goal of the Navy
Hearing Conservation Program is to prevent
occupational noise-related hearing loss among Navy
personnel. The program includes the following

Work environments will be surveyed to identify

potentially hazardous noise levels and personnel
at risk.

Environments that contain, or equipment that

produces, potentially hazardous noise should be
modified to reduce the noise to acceptable
levels whenever technologically and
economically feasible. When this is not
feasible, administrative control (for example,
stay times) and/or hearing protection devices
Figure 1-6.—Hazardous noise warning decal.
should be used.

You will find further information on hearing As a petty officer or chief petty officer, your role in
conservation in OPNAVINST 5100.23C, Navy the command’s Heat Stress Program involves adhering
Occupational Safety and Health (NAVOSH) Program to the command’s program and reporting heat stress
Manual, and OPNAVINST 5100.19B, Navy conditions as they occur.
Occupational Safety and Health (NAVOSH) Program
Manual for Forces Afloat. Primary causes that increase heat stress conditions
are as follows:
MONITORING HEARING TESTS Excessive steam and water leaks
All naval personnel receive an initial or reference Boiler air casing leaks
audiogram shortly after entering the service. Thereafter,
a hearing test will be conducted at least annually while Missing or deteriorated lagging on steam
you are assigned to a noise hazardous environment. piping, valves, and machinery
Hearing tests will also be conducted when there are
individual complaints of difficulties in understanding Clogged ventilation systems or an inoperative
conversational speech or a sensation of ringing in the fan motor
ears. The annual audiograms will be compared to the
reference (baseline) to determine if a hearing threshold Operating in hot or humid climates
shift has occurred.
To determine heat stress conditions, permanently
HEARING PROTECTIVE DEVICES mounted dry-bulb thermometers are installed at key
watch and work stations. Their readings should be
Hearing protective devices should be worn by all recorded at least once a watch period. When a reading
personnel when they must enter or work in an area exceeds 100°F (38°C), a heat stress survey must be
where noise levels are greater than 84 dB(A). A ordered to determine the safe stay time for personnel.
combination of insert earplugs and circumaural muffs,
which provides double protection, should be worn in all A heat stress survey is taken with a wet-bulb globe
areas where noise levels exceed 104 db(A). Personnel temperature (WBGT) meter. You should compare these
hearing protective devices should be issued to suit each readings to the physiological heat exposure limits
situation. (PHEL) chart. After comparing the readings with the
PHEL chart, you will be able to determine the safe stay
time for personnel.
CONTROL PROGRAM As a petty officer or chief petty officer, you should
have a working knowledge of all aspects of the Heat
Heat stress may occur in many work spaces Stress Program so you can recognize heat stress
throughout the Navy. Heat stress is any combination of conditions if they occur and take the proper corrective
air temperature, thermal radiation, humidity, airflow, actions.
and workload that may stress the human body as it
attempts to regulate its temperature. Heat stress Further information and guidance of the Navy Heat
becomes excessive when your body’s capability to Stress Program is contained in OPNAVINST 5100.19B,
adjust is exceeded. This results in an increase in body Navy Occupational Safety and Health (NAVOSH)
core temperature. This condition can readily produce Program Manual for Forces Afloat.
fatigue, severe headaches, nausea, and poor physical
and/or mental performance. Prolonged exposure to heat
stress could cause heatstroke or heat exhaustion and SUMMARY
severe impairment of the body’s temperature-regulating
ability. Heatstroke can be life-threatening if not In this chapter, we have described your
immediately and properly treated. Recognizing responsibilities regarding general and equipment safety,
personnel with heat stress symptoms and getting them both as an individual and as a petty officer and chief
prompt medical attention is an all-hands responsibility. petty officer.

We have identified various sources of safety procedures for giving first aid to the victim. We have
information that are available to you, and provided you also briefly discussed the Navy’s Hearing Conservation,
with general and specific safety precautions to assist Noise Abatement, and Heat Stress programs.
you in your day-to-day work as a HT.
Think safety! Always remain alert to possible
We have discussed the danger of electrical shock, danger.
how to rescue a victim from electrical shock, and the



Upon completion of this chapter, you will be able to do the following:

Describe the different types of repairs and alterations on naval ships.

Describe the basic organization of the Repair Department at intermediate

maintenance activities (IMAs).

Describe the basic duties of personnel assigned to IMAs.

Define the Quality Assurance Program.

Explain the quality assurance organization.

Describe the basic requirements for the Quality Assurance Program and
its link to maintenance.

Identify the basic work center organization and the role of the work center

Be able to make a basic time line and identify its component parts.

Identify the structural parts of a ship and discuss the purpose of the parts.

INTRODUCTION rate are assigned to billets at IMAs performing the basic

functions of ship repair. Therefore, you can expect that
Ship's can operate only a certain length of time sometime in your career you will be assigned to an
without repairs. To keep a ship in prime condition, IMA. It is important that you have a basic idea of the
constant attention should be given to material upkeep organization and role that an IMA plays in ship’s
and definite intervals of time must be allotted for maintenance.
general overhaul and repair.
Quality assurance (QA) also impacts every mainte-
Even when regular maintenance procedures are nance procedure performed by ship’s personnel or main-
carefully followed, accidents and derangements may tenance personnel assigned to IMAs. QA has become a
necessitate emergency repair work. Defects and prime consideration when performing maintenance on
deficiencies that can be corrected by ship’s force should any ship’s system. You will use the QA guidelines as
be dealt with as soon as possible. When repairs are established by your command on a daily basis.
beyond the capacity of ship’s force to accomplish, aid
must be obtained from a repair activity afloat or ashore. This chapter covers basic repair, alteration, and
maintenance procedures for naval ships. It also covers
Ship repair is the basic duty of the HT whether the the IMA organization, the QA program, the the
ashore or afloat. The majority of personnel in the HT basic structural parts of a ship.

REPAIRS AND ALTERATIONS number, location, or relationship of the component
parts. This is true regardless of whether the SHIPALT
Corrective maintenance and repairs to ships may be is undertaken separately from, incidental to, or in
divided into the general categories of (1) repairs, (2) conjunction with repairs. NAVSEASYSCOM, the forces
alterations equivalent to repairs, and (3) alterations. It afloat, or CNO may originate requests for SHIPALTs.
is important that you have an understanding of the
different types of repairs and the difference between a NAVSEASYSCOM Responsibilities
repair and an alteration.
One of NAVSEASYSCOM's prime responsibilities
REPAIRS for ship maintenance is to administer SHIPALTs under
its technical control. NAVSEASYSCOM keeps in-
A repair is defined as the work necessary to restore formed of technical developments in its day-to-day
a ship or an article to serviceable condition without a relations with the forces afloat, the naval shipyards,
change in design, material, or in the number, location, private industry, and research centers. NAVSEASYS-
or relationship of parts. Repairs may be done by ship’s COM may determine that a particular ship or class of
force, tenders, ship repair facilities, or by naval or ships should be altered to bring them to a more efficient
civilian shipyards. and modem state of readiness. These alterations may be
changes to the hull, such as changes to bulkheads that
ALTERATIONS EQUIVALENTTO REPAIRS will strengthen bulkheads or changes to deck arrange-
ments that will provide space for installation of
Before we discuss alterations, we need to under- machinery; changes to machinery or substitution of
stand that NAVSEASYSCOM may determine that some newer and more efficient machinery; changes to equip-
work requested as an alteration may be better defined
ment, such as the replacement of an item with a more
as an alteration equivalent to repair. In that case, efficient type; or changes in design. NAVSEASYSCOM
NAVSEASYSCOM forwards the request to the relies on input from the fleet and unit commanders for
appropriate type commander (TYCOM) to be handled the need of new SHIPALTs.
as a repair. An alteration is considered to be an
alteration equivalent to a repair if it meets one or more
Commanding Officer Responsibilities
of the following conditions:
Materials that have previously been approved When the commanding officer of a ship believes a
for similar use and that are available from SHIPALT is necessary, he/she sends a request to
standard stock are substituted without other NAVSEASYSCOM via the administrative chain of
change in design. command (3-M systems). Copies of the request are sent
to all ships of the type within the fleet for comments as
Worn out or damaged parts, assemblies, or to the value of the SHIPALT for other ships of the
equipment requiring renewal will be replaced same type or class.
by those of a later and more efficient design
that have been previously approved. INSURV Responsibilities
Parts that require repair or replacement to
The reports of the Board of Inspection and Survey
improve reliability of the parts and of the unit
(INSURV) are another source of recommended
will be strengthened, provided no other change
SHIPALTs. When the board completes each material
in design is involved.
inspection of a ship, it furnishes a list of recommended
Equipment that requires no significant changes repairs, alterations, and design changes that it feels
in design or functioning but is considered should be made. NAVSEASYSCOM normally will not
essential to prevent recurrence of unsatisfactory act on those recommendations until the commanding
conditions will be given minor modifications. officer of the inspected ship requests the changes, and
the TYCOM approves.
TY COM Responsibilities
This section deals only with ship alterations (SHIP-
ALTs) as opposed to ordnance alterations (ORDALTs). TYCOMs (or other administrative commanders)
These are alterations to the hull, machinery, equipment, must endorse all requests for SHIPALTs addressed to
or fittings that include a change in design, materials, NAVSEASYSCOM. Their endorsements must include

recommendations for or against approval, classification, activity. Only the authority granting the availability can
and applicability to other ships of the type. Copies of change the allotted period of time. However, a repair
the basic request and endorsements are forwarded to activity may recommend a completion date to the
other concerned TYCOMs with requests to comment on granting authority or request an extension of time to
them for the information of NAVSEASYSCOM. complete work already underway. There are several
types of ship availabilities that we will define in the
SHIPALTs next paragraphs. For example, restricted and technical
availabilities differ in whether the ship is or is not ready
SHIPALTs fall into two broad categories: military to carry out its mission.
SHIPALTS and technical SHIPALTs. If there is a
question as to whether a proposed SHIPALT is military A RESTRICTED AVAILABILITY (RA) is
or technical, NAVSEA will forward the proposal to used to complete specific items of work in a
CNO for determination. You will most often install shipyard or SRF; the ship is NOT available to
technical SHIPALTs. perform its mission during that time.


changes the ship’s operational and military to complete specific items of work in a
characteristics and improves the ship’s shipyard or SRF; the ship IS available to
operational capabilities. Only CNO can approve perform its mission during that time.
a military SHIPALT. An example of a military
SHIPALT would be the installation of a new
Other types of availabilities identify the type of
weapons system. work to be done and where it will be done.
ALT is one that improves the safety of A REGULAR OVERHAUL (ROH) AVAIL-
personnel and equipment and/or improves ABILITY is used to complete general repairs
reliability, ease of maintenance, and efficiency and alterations in a naval shipyard or other
of equipment. A technical SHIPALT can only shore-based repair activity. The schedule for an
be approved at the NAVSEA level. ROH for a given ship varies between 2 and 5
years according to an established cycle. An
AMALGAMATED MILITARY AND TECHNICAL overhaul can take as little as 2 months for small
IMPROVEMENT PLAN ships and as much as 18 months for larger
ships. ROH planning begins about 18 months
Approved military and technical SHIPALTs are before the scheduled overhaul.
ranked in order of priority on an annual basis in the
Amalgamated Military and Technical Improvement A VOYAGE REPAIR AVAILABILITY is used
Plan. The decision to install a SHIPALT is based on the for repairs while the ship is underway. These
priority of the alteration in the Amalgamated Military are emergency repairs that are necessary if the
and Technical Improvement Plan, funding, ship ship is to continue on its mission, and they can
availability, and whether material is available to be done without changing the ship’s operating
complete the SHIPALT. When a decision is reached to schedule. These repairs will be done by the
install a SHIPALT during a given fiscal year, the ship’s force if possible, or if necessary, by
alteration is entered into the Fleet Modernization personnel from an IMA, SIMA, or SRF.
Program (FMP). Approved SHIPALTs are authorized
by letters issued not less than 180 days before the ship A REGULAR IMA AVAILABILITY is used
is scheduled to begin overhaul or other types of repair for general repairs and authorized alterations
availabilities. that are not emergencies. This work is usually
beyond the capability of the ship’s force and is
normally scheduled in advance.
An availability is the period of time a ship is used to repair specific casualties and generally
assigned to undergo maintenance or repair by a repair takes first priority at a fleet IMA.

A CONCURRENT AVAILABILITY is used quite simple; others require planning so they can be
for ship-to-shop work by the shore IMA, done during upkeep or overhaul periods.
tender, or repair ship. These availabilities are
usually scheduled to take place just before a INTERMEDIATE MAINTENANCE ACTIVITIES
regular shipyard overhaul or restricted
availability. A ship's effectiveness depends on its ability to
function well; therefore, ship’s personnel and IMAs
have a dual responsibility to keep it in prime condition.
REPAIR ACTIVITIES That means that the ship's crew routinely handles
normal maintenance and repairs and IMAs handle those
Repair activities are set up to do work the ship’s repairs that a ship's crew cannot handle.
forces cannot handle. Repair activities are IMAs,
XMAS, SRFs, and shipyards. The type of work and This section deals mostly with those jobs the ship's
available funds govern the assignment of repair work to crew cannot handle and which are done by repair
repair activities. The office of the Supervisor of facilities. We will discuss what happens at an IMA or
Shipbuilding (SUPSHIP) places and administers SIMA. The following is a list of the different types of
contracts for the repair or overhaul of naval ships at repair facilities:
private shipyards, and contracts for civilian work to be
done in IMAs, SIMAs, and SRFs. An intermediate maintenance activity (IMA) is
a repair ship (AR), destroyer tender (AD), or
Fleet and type commanders usually call on IMAs or submarine tender (AS).
SIMAs to handle repairs and alterations under regular,
emergency, and concurrent availabilities. If work is A shore intermediate maintenance activity
beyond an IMAs or SIMA’s capability, other activities (SIMA) is based on land and offers services
ashore, such as an SRF or a shipyard, will do it. In the similar to those of an IMA.
following paragraphs, we will discuss the work done by
the ship’s forces and IMAs. In addition, we will A ship repair facility (SRF) is similar to a naval
examine the organization, duties of personnel, and QA shipyard but on a smaller scale and is usually
procedures used in an IMA. based outside the continental United States.

SHIP'S FORCE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS A shipyard is any full-service naval shipyard or
a civilian shipyard contracted for Navy work.
Each ship's force should be able to make its own
normal repairs. To do that, each ship should have the While each type of IMA has its special purpose, all
necessary materials, repair parts, tools, and equipment. of them have many characteristics and facilities in
The most competent and experienced personnel should common that make them suitable for general repair
supervise these repairs. If ship's personnel are not work on most ships. Repair ships and tenders perform
familiar with the needed repairs and tests, or cannot battle and operational damage repairs on ships in the
handle a problem for any reason, the CO should request forward areas, and they provide logistic support to ships
an IMA or shipyard availability. Personnel who are not of the fleet. They also can provide other services,
familiar with these repairs and tests should take including medical and dental treatment, for the ships
advantage of an IMA or SIMA availability to observe they tend. Their shops can handle hull, machinery,
how such work is undertaken. If the ship's force needs electrical, and ordnance work, and they stock parts to
technical assistance, they should request it from the help them deal with most of the repairs they perform.
local TYCOM's maintenance representatives.
SIMAs are shore-based facilities that only do repair
The ship's force should follow a regular schedule of work, while other departments on a shore base handle
preventive maintenance to be sure that equipment and the supply, medical, and administrative needs of the
machinery are always ready for service. This includes ship. Ships are assigned to IMAs with a flexible
cleaning, inspections, operations, and tests to ensure approach that considers unusual repair requirements and
trouble-free operation and to detect faults before they operational commitments, particularly for ships outside
become major problems. Some inspections and tests are the continental United States.

IMA Availabilities COMMANDING OFFICER.—The IMA's com-
manding officer has the overall responsibility for the
Ships are scheduled for regular IMA availabilities daily operation and function of the IMA as a whole.
or upkeep periods at certain intervals of time that vary The CO coordinates the activities of the IMA's
with different types of ships. There are numerous types departments and divisions and is responsible to the
of availabilities used by TYCOMs and they vary TYCOM.
between the surface and submarine components.
Therefore, you should always refer to the governing REPAIR OFFICER.—The repair officer is head of
document associated with the command at which you the repair department on an IMA. The repair officer
are stationed. The availability periods are usually oversees the upkeep, operation, and maintenance of the
planned in advance and depend upon the quarterly equipment assigned to the repair department, and the
deployment schedule of each ship. training, direction, and coordination of its personnel.
The repair officer keeps up with production and ensures
A ship's commanding officer sends a request for an efficient and economical operation of the production
IMA availability with a forwarding letter to the process.
TYCOM or his or her representative. The request must
include job sequence numbers (JSNs) for work requests ASSISTANT REPAIR OFFICER.—The assistant
in the Current Ship's Maintenance Project (CSMP) and repair officer assumes the repair officer’s responsibilities
a listing of TYCOM master job catalogue work items. in his/her absence and carries out the responsibilities the
repair officer delegates. This officer usually handles the
A reviewing officer with TYCOM will review the internal administration of the department and specifi-
request and make any necessary corrections to conform cally keeps progress records on all work. In the subma-
to established policies and procedures. Most of the rine force, the assistant repair officer is called the
ship's work list items will be approved, but the ship production management assistant (PMA).
may have to furnish more detailed information on
certain work requests. QUALITY ASSURANCE OFFICER.—The
quality assurance officer (QAO) is responsible to the
The reviewing officer will forward the approved commanding officer for planning, monitoring, and
ship’s work requests to the appropriate IMA well in executing the overall IMA QA program. The QAO
advance of the period of availability so the IMA repair ensures that all work done by the IMA meets all
department personnel can prepare for the work. Because established technical and quality control requirements.
you should know something about these personnel
before you learn about the arrival conference, the shops, PLANNING AND ESTIMATING OFFICER.—
and the ship maintenance procedures, we will discuss The planning and estimating (P & E) officer is
them in the following paragraphs. responsible to the assistant repair officer for planning
and estimating all work assigned to the IMA. The P &
E officer also is tasked with providing technical
Repair Personnel information for repairs, preparing detailed work
packages for controlled work, and maintaining
Standard Organization and Regulations of the U.S. specifications, standards, process instructions, and
Navy, OPNAVINST 3120.32, contains general procedures.
information about the relative positions and
responsibilities of IMA departments. These positions DIVISION OFFICERS.—The division officers
may vary between the submarine and surface (DOs) have both administrative and production
components, but their responsibilities are generally the responsibilities for the actual work that is done in shops
same. Also, TYCOMs issue standard ship organizations under their supervision. They have administrative and
for their type that describe the organization for every production responsibility. Their administrative
routine function and most emergency conditions that responsibility is in the administration of personnel in
can exist aboard ship. The following paragraphs explain their respective divisions, including the assignment of
the roles of the repair officer, the assistant repair berths and watches, and all training and training
officer, quality assurance officer, planning and records. Their production responsibilities include
estimating officer, repair division officers, diving and oversight of all work requests and review of progress,
salvage officer, and enlisted personnel. requisitions for material, proper operation of division

shops for which they are responsible, safety, and be accepted or rejected by the IMA or deferred to a
progress reports to the repair officer. future IMA availability, depending on shop loading and
material availability. Before the AWR is accepted,
DIVING AND SALVAGE OFFICER.—The rejected, or deferred, it will be ship checked by the lead
position of diving and salvage officer may be a separate and assist work centers for applicability. If the AWR is
assignment or a collateral duty for an officer in the accepted for work in the current availability, it will be
repair department. In either case, the diving and salvage checked by the P & E and QA divisions for technical
officer is responsible for the supervision of all diving and QA requirements and then issued to the shop.
operations, the maintenance of diving and salvage Remember, this is a general overview of the work
equipment, and compliance with diving instructions and request routing from the customer to the craftsman, and
precautions. each IMA has different routing sequences as established
ENLISTED PERSONNEL.—Navy enlisted per-
sonnel provide the technical skills required aboard Ship/IMA Work Coordination
IMAs. The Manual of Navy Enlisted Manpower and
Personnel Classifcations and Occupational Standards, Ship’s engineering personnel must know the status
NAVPERS 18068, contains detailed information on the of work underway during an IMA availability whether
enlisted rating structure. that work is being done by the ship’s force or the IMA.
You need this information to coordinate your own work
Arrival Conference with that being done by the ship’s force. There are three
basic kinds of work that require coordination: (1)
An arrival conference is usually held immediately equipment removed by the ship’s force to be delivered
when a ship begins an IMA availability or an upkeep to the IMA for repair, (2) equipment dismantled by the
period. Representatives of the ship, the repair ship’s crew so they can send parts to the IMA for repair
department, and the TYCOM usually attend the (also known as ship-to-shop jobs), and (3) repairs the
conference. They discuss the relative needs of the ship IMA force makes on the ship.
and the urgency of each job and approve/disapprove
work requests, clarify uncertainties, and arrange for The IMA usually appoints a ship superintendent,
temporary services such as electricity and steam. normally a chief petty officer, who should always know
the status of all jobs on the ship and on the IMA. The
Work Requests ship will also normally appoint a chief petty officer for
that purpose to interface with the IMA. The person(s)
This section will briefly discuss the routing of the in these positions are a liaison between the ship and the
work request from the time the ship submits the ship’s IMA for all work in progress and completed, and all
maintenance request action form (OPNAVINST tests required and completed. They should keep a daily
4790/2K) until you receive it to begin work. running progress report of each job and should report
that information daily to the ship’s/IMA representative.
As mentioned earlier, the ship will submit a
4790/2K to the TYCOM requesting specific main- Repair Department
tenance work to be accomplished. The 2K is screened
at the TYCOM level for completeness and to determine You need a general idea of the shops composing
what type of repair facility to assign the maintenance the repair department and their functions whether you
action to. If the IMA is assigned the maintenance are assigned to an IMA or are part of a ship’s company.
action, the 2K is routed to the Maintenance Document In this section, we will describe the shops as they are
Control Office (MDCO) and the automated data organized in the divisions on a destroyer tender (AD),
processing (ADP) facility for processing. MDCO and which is representative of all surface IMAs.
ADP will process the 2K, entering it onto the CSMP Submarine-related IMAs are organized differently but
and will issue an automated work request (AWR) (fig. have the same capabilities.
2-1) to the IMA.
When the AWR arrives at the IMA, it is screened repair division consists of the shipfitter shop, sheet
by the RO for applicability, shop capability, urgency, metal shop, pipe and copper shop, weld shop, carpenter
and manning requirements. At this point, the AWR may shop, diving locker, and canvas shop. As an HT, you

Figure 2-1.—Automated Work Request.

will probably be assigned to at least a tour of duty as a MACHINERY REPAIR DIVISION (R-2).—The
member of R-l division. We will explain the duties of machinery repair division consists of the inside machine
personnel assigned to each of these shops in the follow- shop, the outside machine shop, the boiler shop, and the
ing paragraphs. On submarine tenders, the carpenter foundry shop. We will explain the duties of personnel
shop, dive locker, and canvas shops are assigned to R-6 assigned to each of these shops in the following
division. paragraphs.

Shipfitter Shop.—Personnel make repairs on the Inside Machine Shop.—Personnel repair or

hull, manufacture and install various structural metal fabricate mechanical parts that require work done on
components, repair or replace watertight fixtures, and machine shop tools and equipment. They do metal
handle alterations designated for forces afloat. plating and engraving, and they test metals to determine
their characteristics. They also handle alterations
Sheet Metal Shop.—Personnel make all types of designated for forces afloat.
repairs and fabrications on light gauge sheet metal and
handle alterations designated for forces afloat. Outside Machine Shop.—Personnel shop test and
repair all types of machinery used in naval ships. They
Pipe and Copper Shop.—Personnel fabricate and also handle alterations designated for forces afloat. On
submarine tenders, they are assigned to R-9 division.
repair most pipe and tubing, test completed work
hydrostatically, and handle alterations designated for
forces afloat. Boiler Shop.—Personnel shop test, inspect, and
repair boilers of naval ships.
Weld Shop.—Personnel weld most metals, includ-
Foundry Shop.—Personnel pour castings of various
ing high-pressure welding on boilers. They repair metals to produce repair parts and whole items used on
castings, stress relieve castings and forgings, forge
the ship. On submarine tenders, they are assigned to
special tools and hull fittings, and case harden R-6 division.
low-carbon steel.
NOTE: The nondestructive testing laboratory electrical repair division consists of the electric shop,
performs all nondestructive testing used to test the the gyro shop, the printing shop, and the photo shop.
quality of the welds and is part of the quality control
division, R-8. Electric Shop.—Personnel inspect, test, repair, and
make adjustments to nearly all electrical equipment, and
Carpenter Shop.—Personnel repair and fabricate they also handle electrical alterations designated for
most items made of wood, and lay linoleum tile, forces afloat. (On submarine tenders, the print and
magnetite, and terrazzo covers on decks. The pattern photo shops are assigned to R-O division.)
shop functions under the carpenter shop and fabricates
patterns of wood, metal, and plastic for templates and ELECTRONICS REPAIR DIVISION (R-4).—
foundry castings. The electronics repair division consists of the
electronics shop and the calibration shop.
Canvas Shop.—Personnel fabricate miscellaneous
canvas covers, awnings, and boat cloths, and they repair Electronics Shop.—Personnel align and repair all
furniture using leather and cloth fabrics. types of electronic equipment, make field changes, and
maintain an electronics publications library.
Diving Locker.—Personnel inspect the underwater
portion of the hull and prepare the underwater hull Calibration Shop.—Personnel repair and calibrate
reports for the repair officer. They also replace most test equipment used on naval ships.
propellers on destroyers and small ships and repair or
replace other items underwater as needed. They clean
propellers, sonar domes, sea chests, and large injection QUALITY ASSURANCE PROGRAM
valves; clear fouled propellers and sea chests; and
maintain the diving boat and diving equipment in repair As an HT, most repairs that you will make require
and operational readiness. a great deal of quality controls to ensure that the system

you are working on is restored to its original conditions. Eliminate unnecessary man-hour and dollar
The QA program provides a uniform policy of expenses.
maintenance and repair on ships and submarines. It
improves discipline in the repair of equipment, safety of Improve the training, work habits, and
personnel, and configuration control. It is essentially a procedures of maintenance personnel.
program to ensure that all work meets specifications or
that any departure from specifications is approved and Store, locate, and distribute required technical
documented. You, the supervisor or craftsman, are information more effectively.
expected to carry out the QA program. This section will
give you the broad knowledge you need to understand Plan realistic material and equipment/
how it works. maintenance tasks.


The ever-increasing technical complexity of The Navy’s fleet commanders in chief (CINCs)
present-day surface ships and submarines has pointed to publish and update QA manuals that set forth minimum
a need for special administrative and technical proce-
QA requirements for both the surface fleets and the
dures known collectively as the QA program. The
submarine force. The TYCOMs then publish QA
fundamental QA concept is that all maintenance person-
manuals that apply to their forces but are based on the
nel have the responsibility to prevent defects from the
fleet CINC manuals. Since these CINC and TYCOM
beginning to the end of each maintenance operation.
manuals apply to a wide range of ship types,
You must consider QA requirements whenever you plan
equipment, and resources, the instructions are general in
maintenance, and you must apply the fundamental
nature. Therefore, each activity must implement its own
QA program that meets the intent of the latest versions
of the fleet CINC and TYCOM QA manuals. If higher
authority imposes more stringent requirements, they will
Quality control (QC) means you regulate events
take precedence.
rather than being regulated by them. It means that you
work with proper methods, material, and tools. In other
The Navy’s QA program applies to maintenance
words, knowledge is the key, and knowledge comes
done aboard ship by the ship’s force, in IMAs, SIMAs,
from factual information.
SRFs, and shipyards. However, this section will
concentrate on QA work done by the ship’s force and
The QA program provides a way to document and
IMAs since you may be assigned to either type of duty.
maintain information on the key characteristics of
equipment. It helps you base decisions on facts rather
than intuition or memory. It provides comparative data QA PROGRAM COMPONENTS
that will be useful long after you have forgotten the
details of a particular time or event. You can get The basic thrust of the QA program is to ensure
knowledge from data, ship's drawings, technical that you comply with technical specifications during all
manuals, material references (such as APLs), and many work on ships of both the surface fleet and the
other sources. As you use these sources, you will submarine force. The key elements of the QA program
develop the special skills you need to analyze include administrative and job execution components.
information and supervise QA programs. The administrative component includes the requirement
to train and qualify personnel, monitor and audit
A good QA program provides enough information programs, and complete the QA forms and records. The
so you can accomplish the following goals: job execution component includes the requirement to
prepare work procedures, meet controlled material
Improve the quality, uniformity, and reliability
requirements, requisition and receive material, conduct
of the total maintenance effort.
in-process control of fabrication and repairs, test and
Improve the work environment, tools, and recertify equipment, and document any departure from
equipment used in maintenance. specifications.

THE QA LINK TO MAINTENANCE The CO cannot maintain high standards of quality
workmanship by merely creating a QA organization
The Navy has a long-standing requirement that within a maintenance organization. The organization
maintenance work must meet technical specifications. must have the full support of everyone within it. It is
The person performing the maintenance is ultimately not the inspection instruments and instructions that
responsible for ensuring that this requirement is met. bring high standards of quality; it is the attitudes of
Therefore, any worker who is expected to do the job those who do the work.
properly must be properly trained, provided with correct
tools and parts, familiar with the technical manuals and The Quality Assurance Officer
plans, and adequately supervised.
The QAO is responsible to the CO for the
These elements continue to be the primary means of organization, administration, and execution of the ship’s
assuring that maintenance is performed correctly. QA program according to the QA manual. On most
surface ships other than IMAs, the QAO is the chief
Once there is a decision to proceed with engineer with a senior chief petty officer assigned as
maintenance, you must apply QA requirements at the the QA coordinator. The QAO is responsible for the
same time you plan the maintenance and supervise its following:
completion. Technical specifications will come from a
variety of sources. The determination of which sources — Coordinating the QA training program as an
are applicable to the particular job will be the most integral part of the ship's/IMA's overall training
difficult part of your planning effort. Once you decide, program
the maintenance objective becomes two-fold: (1) ensure
the maintenance work meets all specifications, and (2) — Maintaining the ship’s/IMAs QA records and
ensure the documentation is complete and accurate and test and inspection reports
can be audited.
— Maintaining departure-from-specifications re-
THE QA ORGANIZATION cords that can be audited

The Navy's QA program organization begins with — Reviewing procedures and controlled work
the fleet CINCs, who provide the basic QA program packages prepared by the ship/IMA
organization responsibilities and guidelines. The
TYCOMs provide instruction, policy, and overall — Conducting QA audits as required and
direction to implement and operate the force QA following up on corrective action to ensure
program. Each TYCOM has a force QA officer compliance with the QA program
assigned to administer the force QA program.
Commanding officers are responsible to the TYCOM, — Preparing QA/QC reports as required by higher
via the chain of command, for QA of their organization. authority
The CO is responsible for organizing and implementing
a QA program within the organization to carry out the — Qualifying key personnel in the QA program.
provisions of the TYCOM's QA manual, and assigns
key QA personnel for that purpose. In most cases, it is
The Division Officer
a collateral duty assignment for these key personnel on
ships and a primary duty for key personnel at IMAs.
The DOs ensure that all division personnel receive
The following paragraphs will give you a brief
the necessary QA training and qualifications for their
description of the responsibilities of each of these
positions and that they carry out their QA
positions followed by a discussion of their training and

The Commanding Officer The Quality Assurance Coordinator

The CO is responsible for the quality of material The quality assurance coordinators (QACs) are
within a command, and he/she depends on the full senior petty officers assigned to this duty. Personnel
cooperation of all hands to help meet this responsibility. assigned to this duty train other QA personnel, conduct

interviews for prospective QA personnel, and administer the material and workmanship for that stage of
written examinations for QA qualifications. workmanship.

Ship Quality Control Inspector Personnel who serve as SQCIs will be responsible
for the following:
If you are a work center supervisor, you will most
often be appointed and trained in the collateral duty of Developing a thorough understanding of the
ship quality control inspector (SQCI). IMAs have QA program.
personnel permanently assigned to these positions
within the QA division. As an SQCI, you will be Training all work center personnel until they
deeply and directly involved in QA. You must be are familiar with the QA/QC requirements that
familiar with all aspects of the QA program and the QC apply to your work.
procedures and requirements of your specialty. As an
SQCI, you should act as an inspector or assign a Ensuring that all controlled work done by your
collateral duty inspector at the same time you assign work center personnel meets the minimum
work to be sure the work is inspected in progress and requirements in the latest plans, directives, and
on completion. Do not allow personnel in your shop to specifications of higher authority and that
do a final inspection on their own work. controlled work packages (CWPs) are properly
used on repair work.
Inspections normally fall into one of the following
three inspection areas: Inspecting all controlled work for conformance
to specifications and witnessing and
RECEIVING OR SCREENING INSPEC- documenting all tests required on these systems.
TIONS. These inspections apply to material,
components, parts, equipment, logs and records, Maintaining records and files to support the QA
and documents. They determine the condition program and ensuring the QA manual is
of material, proper identification, maintenance followed.
requirements, disposition, and correctness of
related records and documents. Ensuring test personnel use measuring devices,
instruments, inspection tools, gauges, or fixtures
IN-PROCESS INSPECTIONS. These inspec- that have current calibration stickers or records
tions are specific QA actions that are required when acceptance tests are performed.
in cases where you cannot know whether the
job was done right without the inspections. Ensuring a qualified inspector accepts the work
They include witnessing, application of torque, before the ship installs the product when an
functional testing, adjusting, assembling, ser- inspection is beyond the capability of the
vicing, and installation. ship’s/IMA's QA inspector.

FINAL INSPECTIONS. These inspections Reporting all deficiencies to the ship’s QAC
comprise specific QA actions performed and keeping the division officer informed.
following the completion of a task or a series
of tasks. An example is an inspection of work Helping the DO and QAO conduct internal
areas after several personnel have completed audits and correct discrepancies.
Work Center Controlled
Most commands that have a QA program will issue Material Petty Officer
you a special ID number that will identify you as a
qualified SQCI. In addition, the QAO will assign a If you supervise a work center that has level I or
personal serial number to each shop SQCI as proof of subsafe material, you must ensure the procedures that
certification to use on all forms and tags that require govern controlled material are followed. Your work
initials as proof that certified tests and inspections were center or division will usually appoint a controlled
made. This will provide documented proof and material petty officer (CMPO) to handle these
traceability to show that each item or lot of items meets responsibilities. After training, that person will inspect,

segregate, stow, and issue controlled material in the REPAIR PROCEDURES
work center.
As an HT, you may be required to organize and
Shop Craftsmen supervise an HT shop aboard ship or at a shore facility.
It will be your responsibility to supervise and instruct
Shop craftsmen are not normally trained in specific personnel of lower rates in the techniques of carpentry
QA functions as are the key QA people. Still, they must and woodworking, plate and sheet metal layout and
do their work under QA guidelines if they apply. They fabrication, pipefitting, and the welding of various types
will work closely with their shop supervisors and QA of metals. In addition, you will be required to estimate
inspectors to ensure the work is done according to QA the time, materials, and personnel required for the
guidelines and procedures. completion of various wood and metalworking jobs; to
maintain the HT shop, including all tools and
THE CONTROLLED WORK equipment, in the best possible condition; and to ensure
PACKAGE that all safety precautions are observed by your
personnel. To supervise HT shop work efficiently,
As an HT, you will be required to document the afloat or ashore, you will rely mostly upon your past
repair work that you do on any ship’s system. This experience in shop work and repair procedures.
documentation is done in an approved and issued CWP
received from the P & E division. The CWP provides The purpose of this section is to acquaint an HT
QC requirements and procedures to help ensure that with some of the most important things that must be
fabrication or repair will produce a quality product. considered by a person in charge of a work center. It is
These requirements or procedures include both TYCOM impossible, however, to cover all the procedures and
and local command-generated information for work problems that arise in the daily operations of a work
package processing and sign-off. The typical CWP will center. By studying this section of the chapter, you will
have QA forms, production task control forms, become aware of some of the things that occur,
departure from specifications forms, material deficiency particularly in regard to the job of setting up shop
forms, QC personnel sign-off requirements, and hydro procedures and the methods by which everyday
or test forms. Each CWP covers the entire scope of the problems are solved.
work process and is a permanent and legal record of the
performed work. The job control number (JCN) Leading petty officers, especially those who are in
provides traceability from the work package to other direct contact with personnel, often fail to recognize
certification documentation. When filled in, the CWP that they are part of the ship’s administrative organiza-
documents adherence to specified quality standards. tion. Every petty officer in the shipboard organization
is definitely part of the administrative group. In such a
You must ensure that the CWP is at the job site capacity, you have many responsibilities that you are
during the performance of the task. Since the CWP is expected to carry out by interpreting and executing the
the controlling documentation for the performance of established policies and procedures. Supervisors can
any repair work you accomplish, it is required on the accomplish this properly only when they have a clear
work site to ensure that no steps or inspection are understanding of these policies and procedures, as well
omitted. If the work procedure requires the as their place within the command’s organization.
simultaneous performance of procedure steps and these
steps are done in different locations, use locally As a supervisor, the petty officer is expected to spot
developed practices to ensure you maintain control for operating difficulties in their shop and do something
each step. about them. You must have an understanding of your
department, ship’s organization, and the proper channels
Immediately after a job is completed, each assigned and lines of authority which are open to you. The
work center and the QAO will review the CWP further up the organizational chain that you progress,
documentation to be sure it is complete and correct. If the greater your responsibilities become. The job of a
you and your workers have been doing the assigned supervisor is a detailed one, and most important with
steps as stated, this should not be a problem. Be sure all respect to the operation of any naval repair activity or
verification signature blocks are signed. Make sure all facility. A weakness in the performance of any supervi-
references, such as technical manuals or drawings, are sory duty or responsibility reduces the effectiveness of
returned to the appropriate place. the work center as a whole.

Obviously, then, the HT in charge of an HT shop Checking and inspecting completed repairs or
should fully appreciate and understand the responsibility replacement parts
he/she holds as a member of a shipboard organization,
and be able to identify each of his/her duties with Promoting teamwork
respect to any assigned job. This is not an easy task in
a field so complex and variable as the work of a shop From the extent of the preceding list it is obvious
supervisor. that the job of a supervisor covers a broad field. These
items are quite general in nature; therefore, it is
Some administrative personnel have made long lists necessary for each HT shop supervisor to carry out a
of the responsibilities of shop supervisors. A close detailed study of his/her own specific duties and
examination of such lists might disclose to each leading responsibilities.
petty officer points of differences as well as points of
agreement. Many differences are of minor importance, The leading petty officer in charge of an HT shop
and others represent major differences in responsibili- should take advantage of every opportunity to provide
ties. After such a comparison, it might be concluded personnel with specific information about their jobs.
that an accurate list of duties for any given job can be The type of petty officer who says, “Never mind why;
made only by the individual occupying the particular just do as you are told,” is rapidly being replaced by
job. The following list includes the duties and responsi- the supervisor who recognizes the importance of each
bilities that are common to most shop supervisors: individual.

Getting the right person on the right job at the As the leading petty officer in charge of an HT
right time shop, you should use all possible interest factors. You
should study each of your personnel and use those
Using tools and materials as economically as interest factors that seem to obtain the best results
possible according to individual characteristics. Your ability to
interest your personnel in their work is important, as it
Preventing conditions that might cause determines your success or failure as a supervisor. Your
accidents proficiency in rating depends in part on the quality and
quantity of work assigned personnel produce, which, in
Keeping personnel satisfied and happy on the turn, reflects the morale of the shop personnel and their
job interest in their work.

Adjusting individual grievances PLANNING AND SCHEDULING JOBS

Maintaining discipline Careful planning is necessary to keep an HT shop

running efficiently and productively. Remember that
any time lost, whether on a job or between jobs, lowers
Keeping records and making reports
the overall efficiency of the shop. To keep the work
flowing smoothly, you will have to consider such
Maintaining the quality and quantity of repair factors as sizing up the job, checking on the availability
work of materials and supplies, time and material
requirements, allowing for priority of work, assigning
Planning and scheduling repair work work, checking the progress of the work, and checking
the completed work.
Training personnel
Sizing up the Job
Requisitioning tools, equipment, and materials
When a new job order comes into the HT shop,
Inspecting and maintaining tools and equipment check it over carefully to be sure that it contains all the
necessary information. Don't start a job until you are
Giving orders and directions sure that you understand in detail the scope of the job.
If blueprints or drawings will be needed, check to be
Cooperating with others sure that they are available. Shipcheck each job as soon

as possible to verify the scope of the job against course, be added to the total estimate of time required
available blueprints or other technical documentation. to complete the job.

Checking on Materials 3. Find out what materials will be required, and

make sure they are available. If the specified materials
Before starting a job, be sure that all the required are not available, time may be lost while you try to find
materials will be available. This means not only the a satisfactory substitute.
correct kind of wood or metal for the job, but also
whatever other materials may be required to finish the 4. Find out what part of the job (if any) must be
job, such as glue, dowels, nails, welding rod, rivets, done in other shops. It is important to consider not only
bolts, clips, and hinges. Ensure that all material used for the time actually required by these other shops, but also
the repair meets applicable specifications and are the time that may be lost if one of the shops holds up
verifiable. the work of your shop. Never attempt to estimate the
time that will be required by other shops. Each shop
Estimating Time for a Job must make a separate estimate, and these estimates must
be combined to obtain the final estimate.
Accuracy in estimating the required time for a
specific job is primarily a matter of experience. When 5. Consider all the interruptions that might cause
making a time estimate, you will compare the present delay, over and above the time actually required for the
problem with one you have solved in the past. An work itself. Such things as ship's drills, inspections,
estimate, in a very real sense, is a guess, but it is an field days, and working parties will affect the number
intelligent guess when based on the proper use of of personnel that will be available to work on the job at
records and experience. any given time.

From time to time, you will probably be called 6. Next, try to estimate the time that will be
upon to give the estimate of the time that will be required for the work itself. Perhaps the best way to do
needed to complete a repair job. For most of the routine this is to divide the total job into its various phases or
jobs coming into the HT shop, a quick estimate made steps that will have to be done. The time required for
on the basis of your experience will probably be each step depends partly on the nature of the job and
sufficient. For urgent jobs, however, the time required partly on the number of personnel available. You may
for completion may be an important consideration; and find it helpful to draw a diagram or chart showing how
you should be very cautious in making these estimates. many persons can be assigned to each step of the job,
The estimate(s) that you make may have an effect on and how long each step is likely to take. Figure 2-2
the operational schedule of a ship; therefore, it is shows a chart made up to estimate the total time
important to consider all factors that might affect the required to make certain repairs to a gangway.
time required for the job.
The total job is divided up into nine phases or
The following steps are generally required to make steps:
an accurate estimate of the time that will be required
for a repair job. A. Making the template. This step might take one
person about 1 hour.
1. Study the job order and any blueprints or other
drawings that are applicable to determine the extent of B. Obtaining metal fittings (treads and padeyes).
the job. For a repair job, inspect the damaged item to This step might take one person about 1 hour.
determine whether or not it requires repairs or
replacements in addition to those specified in the job C. Renewing one stringer and six treads. This step
order. In other words, the first thing to do is to get all might take four people about 6 hours.
possible information about the job.
D. Sanding the surface and using wood filler. This
2. Find out the priority of the job. If it has a lower step might take two people about 2 hours.
priority than some of the work already scheduled to be
done in the shop, you will not be able to start work E. Giving the first coat of varnish. This step might
immediately. Any delay in starting the job must, of take one person about 1 hour.

Figure 2-2.—Estimating time required for a gangway repair job.

F. Drying time (8 hours). This must be counted in STEP C 24 man-hours

the total estimate even though no work can be
done on the gangway during this period. STEP D 4 man-hours

G. Giving the second coat of varnish. This step STEP E 1 man-hour

might take one person about 1 hour.
STEP F 0 man-hour
H. Drying time (8 hours).
STEP G 1 man-hour
I. Putting on the metal fittings. This step might
take one person about 1 hour. STEP H 0 man-hour

Notice that, although there are four people available STEP I 1 man-hour
to work on this job, it is not possible for all four to be
working on it at all times. Most of the work must be TOTAL = 33 man-hours
done in sequence; for example, you can’t finish the
surface before you have renewed the stringer and treads, So you find that the total job requires 33 man-hours
and you can‘t make the new stringer and treads before of work. But what does this mean? Does the number of
you have made the template. Step A (obtaining the man-hours tell you how long the job is going to take?
metal fittings) could be performed at any convenient Is it safe to assume that a job requiring 33 man-hours
time before step I (putting on the metal fittings). The can be done in 8 1/4 hours if you put four people to
advantage of using a diagram such as the one shown in work on it? Obviously not, since there is a limit to the
figure 2-2 is that it shows at a glance the total number number of people who can work on the job at any
of hours that must be allowed for the work-in this given time.
case, 28 hours.
The unit MAN-HOURS, then, is a measure of
The diagram shows you something else, too: the amount of work but not of total length of time. You
number of man-hours required for each step. Let’s add should be very cautious about using man-hours when
these up: estimating how long a job will take, since this measure
does not allow for the sequence in which the work must
STEP A 1 man-hour be performed, the number of steps required, or the
number of people who can work on the job at each
STEP B 1 man-hour step.

Material Estimates base times the height (π R H. For example, to compute
the weight of the 2 1/2-inch extra strong steel pipe
The material you will use on a given job will be shown in figure 2-3, you would use the following
determined from specifications or plans. If the material procedure:
is not specified, you will decide what you need and
select it. Your decision will be based on the purpose of Step 1. Compute the volume of metal contained in
the structure or object, and the conditions that it will cylinder 1, using the formula volume = πR H.
meet in service. Some of the “in-service conditions” are Substituting known values we find that:
resistance to corrosion, resistance to acids, or resistance
to wear. You will have to consider the weight to be π = 3.1416
supported, pressures to be withstood, and working
stresses that may be encountered. Safety, too, is an R = 1.4375
important point to consider in determining the material
to use on a particular job. There is no set rule to fol- H = 30 ft (360 inches)
low. Each problem must be considered individually.
V = 3.1416 (1.4375)2360
ALLOWING FOR WASTE.—In most jobs, a
careful study of the detail plans will reveal the exact V = 2337.0 cu in.
amount of material needed for a particular installation
or repair. However, it is sometimes impossible to use Step 2. Compute the volume of metal contained in
every linear foot of a length of pipe or bar stock or to cylinder 2:
use every square foot of plate or sheet metal. Some
waste is unavoidable, and an allowance for such waste π = 3.1416
is necessary in material estimates.
R = 1.1615
erations are important in shipboard repairs and alter- H = 30 ft (360 inches)
ations. Consequently, it not only may be necessary for
you to determine the amount of material required for a V = 3.1416 (1.1615)2360
job, but also to calculate the weight of the material
going into the job. The weight of pipes, tubes, plates, V = 1525.7 cu in.
sheets, and bars can be determined in either of two
ways: (1) by referring to tables in a handbook and
locating the weight per linear or square foot of the
particular material in question; and (2) by arithmetical
computation. For example, suppose you need to know
the weight of a 30-foot length of 2 1/2-inch extra strong
steel pipe. By referring to the appropriate table in a
piping handbook, we find that this pipe weighs
approximately 7.66 pounds per linear foot. Thus, a
30-foot length weighs 229.8 pounds.

But, suppose you do not have such tabulated

information available. In that case, it is necessary to
determine the volume of metal involved and multiply
that result by the weight of the metal per cubic inch. To
compute the volume of metal in a pipe or tube, think of
it as being two cylinders. The outside diameter being
cylinder 1 and the inside diameter being cylinder 2. The
result obtained by subtracting the volume of cylinder 2
from the volume of cylinder 1 will be the volume of
metal (in cubic inches) contained in the pipe or tube. Figure 2-3.—Actual measurements of inside and outside
The volume of a cylinder is equal to the area of the diameters of 2 1/2-inch extra strong steel pipe.

Step 3. Find the volume of metal contained in the Table 2-2.—Weight of Various Gauges of Uncoated Plain
pipe by subtracting the volume of cylinder 2 from the Steel Sheet Metal
volume of cylinder 1:

2337.0 - 1525.7 = 811.3 cu in.

Step 4. Find the weight of the pipe by multiplying

the volume of metal by the weight of steel, shown in
table 2-1:

811.3 × 0.284 = 230.4 lb

The weight of plate and sheet metal structures may

be found by computing the volume of metal contained
(in cubic inches), and then multiplying the volume by
the weight of the metal (per cubic inch), as shown in
table 2-2. As an example, find the weight of a steel
plate that is 68 inches in length, 44 inches wide and 1/2
inch thick. Using the formula weight = volume ×
weight of the metal per cubic inch, we use the
following procedure:

Step 1. Compute the volume of metal contained.

The weight of steel per square foot may be
Volume = length × width × thickness determined by multiplying the thickness of the metal by
40.9. Table 2-2 lists the weight per square foot of the
V = 68 × 44 × 1/2 various gauges of uncoated plain steel sheet metal, and
also the decimal equivalents of the different gauges.
V = 1496 cu in.
Obviously, to calculate the weight of a particular
Step 2. Find the weight of the steel plate. structure, you must be able to break the whole down
into its component geometrical parts, circles, squares,
Weight = volume of metal × weight per cu in. rectangles, pyramids, and so on, and determine their
respective volumes. Further, you need to know the
W = 1496 × 0.284 weight of metal per cubic inch. This information can be
found in a variety of handbooks readily available in the
W = 424.86 lb engineer or repair department office. Table 2-1 gives
the information for a few of the more common metals.

Table 2-1.—Weight of Common Metals When specific job requirements are known,
estimating of material needed is no problem. However,
when estimating requirements for future use, you will
have to anticipate your needs. Referring to records of
previous jobs and records of materials expended can
help eliminate much guesswork.

Priority of Work

In scheduling work in an HT shop, you will have to

consider the priority of each job. Most job orders will
have a ROUTINE priority; this means that they must be
done as soon as possible, within the normal capacity of
the shop. Jobs having an URGENT priority must be

done immediately, even at the expense of routine jobs working party. At that time, however, you probably did
that may be in progress. Jobs with a DEFERRED not understand “how” or “why” the stores were placed
priority do not constitute a problem, since they are aboard. As a HTI or HTC, you are expected to know
usually accomplished when the workload of the shop is the immediate supply channels in order to obtain the
light and there are no routine or urgent jobs to be done. material you need. The fact that there are supply
specialists aboard does not relieve you of the
Assigning Work responsibility for aiding in procuring, handling, stowing,
and accounting for the materials used in your shop.
The assignment of work in the HT shop is
extremely important. As a rule, the more complicated The big job of supply is handled by the supply
jobs should be assigned to the more experienced department. But if that department does not know what
personnel. When time and the workload of the shop you need, you are not going to have the material you
permit, however, the less experienced personnel should want when you need it. It is your responsibility to keep
be given difficult work to do under proper supervision the proper people informed of your estimated needs so
so that they may acquire skill and self-confidence. that you will have the required materials on board at all
times. Most of your orders will be placed through your
When assigning work, be sure that the person who division officer or the head of the department, but in
is going to do the job is given as much information as some cases, you may order directly from the supply
necessary. An experienced person may need only a officer.
drawing and a general statement concerning the finished
product. A less experienced person will probably Selecting Materials and Repair Parts
require additional instructions concerning the layout of
the job and the procedures to be followed. The materials and repair parts to be used are
specified for many jobs, but not for all. When materials
Checking Progress of Work or parts are not identified in the instructions
accompanying the job, you will have to use your own
When you are in charge of the HT shop, you will judgment or do some research to find out just what
have to keep a constant check on the progress of all material or part should be used. When you must make
work. In particular, be sure that the proper materials are the decision yourself, select the material on the basis of
being used, that the work is set up properly, that the purpose of the structure or part and the service
personnel are using the correct tools properly, and that conditions it must withstand. Operating pressure and
all safety precautions are being observed. Note the operating temperature must be considered in selecting
progress of each job in relation to the planned schedule materials. For some applications, wear resistance or
of work; you will probably find that some jobs are corrosion resistance will be important; for others (as, for
ahead of schedule, while others are lagging behind. If example, for high-temperature steam piping), creep
necessary, reschedule the work to prevent the resistance will be a necessary property of the material.
development of bottlenecks. By frequently talking to
shop personnel and answering their questions, you can The shipboard sources of information that will be
prevent jobs from being spoiled, as might happen if you helpful to you in identifying or selecting materials and
were not available to give correct details on the jobs. repair parts include (1) nameplates on the equipment,
(2) manufacturers’ technical manuals and catalogs, (3)
Checking Completed Work stock cards maintained by the supply officer, (4)
specifications for ships, (5) ship's plans, blueprints, and
When you are in charge of the HT shop, it will be other drawings, and (6) allowance lists.
your responsibility to inspect and approve all finished
work before it is allowed to leave the shop. In addition, NAMEPLATES on equipment supply information
you must make sure that all shop records concerning regarding the characteristics of the equipment, and are
finished work are complete, correct, and up to date. therefore a useful source of information concerning the
equipment itself. Nameplate data seldom, if ever,
SHOP MATERIALS include the exact materials required for repairs;
however, the information given on the characteristics of
In all probability, your first experience with naval the equipment may be a useful guide for the selection
supplies and repair parts was as a member of a store's of materials.

are furnished with practically all machinery and
equipment on board ship. Materials and repair parts are
sometimes described in the text of these technical
manuals; usually, details of materials and parts are
given on the drawings. Manufacturers’ catalogs of repair
parts are sometimes furnished with shipboard

The set of STOCK CARDS that is maintained by

the supply officer is often a valuable source of
information for the identification of repair materials and
repair parts. One of these cards is maintained for each
machinery repair part carried on board.

SHIP'S PLANS, BLUEPRINTS, and other drawings

available on board ship are excellent sources of
information on materials and parts to be used in making
various repairs. Many of these plans and blueprints are
furnished in regular large sizes; some drawings are
being furnished on microfilm to naval shipyards and to
repair ships and tenders.

Handling Materials and Equipment Figure 2-4.—Clamp for handling heavy plate.

As an HT, your duties will include the supervision

of the handling, stowing, and inventory of all shop
materials and repair parts. The rigging and actual
transferring of the materials, parts, and equipment to
your ship will be done under the supervision of the
Boatswain’s Mate. It is your responsibility to furnish the
personnel and supervise the stowage of the materials or
equipment in the proper shop stowage space.

Heavy plate is usually handled with wire rope slings

or straps or with an approved-plate clamp such as the
one shown in figure 2-4. These clamps should NOT be
used for handling bundles of sheet metal, since the
sheets in the middle could slip and cause the entire load
to drop. Bulky items such as bars, strap, and structural
shapes are usually handled with slings or straps. The
chokers shown in figure 2-5 are effective devices for
handling pipe and other materials that must be gripped Figure 2-5.—Chokers for handling pipe.
tightly; when the hooks are used in pairs, the pull
should be from opposite sides of the load, as shown in custody of repair parts, storerooms with bins and
figure 2-5. drawers for individual stowage of repair part items are
generally used instead of the repair parts boxes. The
STOWAGE.—Whenever possible, repair parts available space and the type of work done in the shop
should be stowed in special storerooms. On small ships, are factors that determine how much material is stowed
where it may be impracticable to stow repair parts in the shops and how much is stowed in storerooms.
boxes in storerooms, the boxes are generally located in
(or near) the same space as the machinery for which Pipe Shop Stowage.—In a tender or repair ship
they are required. Where the supply department has pipe shop, for example, you will probably not have

room for all the varied sizes and lengths of materials the stowage of material and equipment. Some of thest
that you may use. However, storage should be provided important of these are as follows:
in the pipe shop for the most commonly used pipe sizes
and also for the leftover lengths that accumulate in the Stow material neatly and in such a way that
course of time. Overhead or bulkhead storage racks are you can get it when you need it.
often used for stowage of piping. Stowage should be
provided in the pipe shop for the most commonly used Identify all materials. A piece of carbon
valves, fittings, bolts, nuts, rivets, and other items molybdenum steel looks just like a piece of
required for piping repairs. mild steel, but you cannot use the two materials
for the same purpose. Materials should be
Weld Shop Stowage.—In a welding shop, you will identified by labels for each bin or rack, by
have the problem of stowing welding machines, shipping tags attached to the materials, by
welding rods, protective equipment, and all the other color-code markings (when applicable), and by
gear required for welding. Particular precautions should stock number. Keeping the stock number with
be taken in stowing electrodes to make sure that they the material will save you time and trouble
will be kept dry and that the coated surfaces will not be when you need to reorder material.
Protect all materials against rust and other
Sheet Metal Shop Stowage.—In the sheet metal corrosion and against other kinds of damage.
shop and in the shipfitter shop, the stowage of large
sheets, bars, or structural shapes will present special Be sure that your stowage facilities include
problems. In a general-purpose HT shop, the require- provision for securing for sea. Metal sheets,
ments vary so much from day to day that you will bars, structural shapes, pipes, and tubes must be
probably find it impracticable to stow large amounts of secured so that they will not shift when the ship
any one material; instead, you will draw your material is underway. Padeyes, turnbuckles, wedges,
as you need it from a storeroom. The main stowage bars, and C-clamps can be used to secure
problem that you are likely to have in a general-purpose materials.
HT shop is the stowage of leftover materials.
Within the limits of available space, provide
STOWAGE REQUIREMENTS.—No matter what stowage facilities that will make the shop a
type of shop you are in, certain general rules apply to convenient place to work.

Figure 2-6.—Shell section of a destroyer.

HULL MEMBERS additional member is attached to this flange to serve as
the center strake.)
In the repair of ships, it is important that you have
an understanding of basic ship structure. Therefore, the The web of the I-beam is a solid plate that is called
following section will discuss the structural parts of a the vertical keel. The upper flange is called the rider
ship and the purpose of the parts. plate; this forms the center strake of the inner bottom
plating. An inner vertical keel of two or more sections,
The principal strength members of the ship’s consisting of I-beams arranged one on top of the other,
structure are located at the top and bottom of the hull is found on many large combatant ships.
where the greatest stresses occur. The top section
includes the main deck plating, the deck girders, and FRAMING
the sheer strakes of the side plating. The bottom section
includes the keel, the outer bottom plating, the inner Frames used in ship construction may be of various
bottom plating, and any continuous longitudinals in way shapes. Frames are strength members. They act as
of the bottom. The side webs of the ship girder are integral parts of the ship girder when the ship is
composed of the side plating, aided to some extent by exposed to longitudinal or transverse stresses. Frames
any long, continuous fore-and-aft bulkheads. Some of stiffen the plating and keep it from bulging or buckling.
the strength members of a destroyer hull girder are They act as girders between bulkheads, decks, and
indicated in figure 2-6. double bottoms, and transmit forces exerted by load
weights and water pressures. The frames also support
KEEL the inner and outer shell locally and protect against
unusual forces, such as those caused by underwater
The keel is the most important structural member of explosions. Frames are called upon to perform a variety
a ship. It is considered to be the backbone of the ship. of functions, depending upon the location of the frames
The keel is built up of plates and angles into an I-beam in the ship. Figure 2-8 shows various types of frames
shape (fig. 2-7). The lower flange of this I-beam used on board ship.
structure is the flat keel plate, which forms the center There are two important systems of framing in
strake of the bottom plating. (On large ships, an current use:the transverse framing system and the
longitudinal framing system. The transverse system
provides for continuous transverse frames with the
widely spaced longitudinals intercostal between them.
Transverse frames are closely spaced and a small
number of longitudinals are used. The longitudinal
system of framing consists of closely spaced
longitudinals, which are continuous along the length of
the ship, with transverse frames intercostal between the
Transverse frames are attached to the keel and
extend from the keel outward around the turn of the
bilge and up to the edge of the main deck. They are
closely spaced along the length of the ship, and they
Figure 2-7.—Typical welded keel section. define the form of the ship.

Figure 2-8.—Types of frames used on board ship.

Longitudinals (fig. 2-9) run parallel to the keel
along the bottom, bilge, and side plating. The
longitudinals provide longitudinal strength, stiffen the
shell plating, and tie the transverse frames and the
bulkheads together. The longitudinals in the bottom
(called side keelsons) are of the built-up type (fig.

Where two sets of frames intersect, one set must be

cut to allow the other to pass through. The frames,

Figure 2-11.—Intercostal and continuous frames.

which are cut and thereby weakened, are known as

intercostal frames; those that continue through are
called continuous frames. Both intercostal and
continuous frames are shown in figure 2-11.
A cellular form of framing results from a
combination of longitudinal and transverse framing
systems using closely spaced deep framing. Cellular
framing is used on most naval ships.

In the bottom framing, which is normally the

strongest portion of the ship's structure, the floors and
keelsons are integrated into a rigid cellular construction
(fig. 2-12). Heavy loads, such as the ship’s propulsion
machinery, are bolted to foundations that are built
directly on top of the bottom framing (fig. 2-13). (This
method is outdated and is being replaced by block
assembly technology.)

In many ships, the top of this cellular region is

covered with shell plating, which forms many tanks or
voids in the bottom of the ship. The plating over the
Figure 2-9.—Basic frame section (longitudinal framing).
intersection of the frames and longitudinals is known as
the inner bottom plating. The inner bottom plating is a
watertight covering laid on top of the bottom framing.
It is a second skin inside the bottom of the ship. It
prevents flooding in the event of damage to the outer
bottom, and it also acts as a strength member. The
tanks and voids may be used for stowage of fresh water
or fuel oil or they can be used for ballasting. This type
of bottom structure, with inner bottom plating, is called
double-bottom construction.


The ship's bow, which is the front of the ship,

varies in form from one type of ship to another as the
Figure 2-10.—Built-up longitudinal. requirements of resistance and seakeeping dictate the


Figure 2-12.—Bottom structure.

rigidly fasten together the peak frames, the stem, and

the outside plating. Breast hooks are made of heavy
plate and are basically triangular in shape.

Deep transverse framing and transverse bulkheads

complete the stem assembly. The stem itself is
fabricated from castings, forgings, and heavy plate, or
in the case of smaller ships, heavy, precut structural
steel plate.


The after-most section of the ship's structure is the

stem post, which is rigidly secured to the keel, shell
plating, and decks. On single-screw ships, the stem post
Figure 2-13.—Deep floor assembly for machinery foundations. is constructed to accommodate the propeller shaft and
rudder stock bosses. The stem post as such is difficult
to define, since it has been replaced by an equivalent
shape. The external shape is shown in figure 2-14 and
structure of deep framing. This structure (fig. 2-15)
is commonly used on combatant ships. This form is
consists of both longitudinal and transverse framing that
essentially bulbous at the forefoot, tapering to a sharp
extends throughout the width of the bottom in the
entrance near the waterline and again widening above
vicinity of the stem. To withstand the static and
the waterline. Internally, the stem assembly has a heavy
dynamic loads imposed by the rudders, the stem
centerline member that is called the stem post. The stem
structure is strengthened in the vicinity of the rudder
post is recessed along its after edge to receive the shell
post by a structure known as the rudder bearing
plating, so that the outside presents a smooth surface to
cut through the water. The keel structure is securely
fastened to the lower end of the stem by welding. The
stem maintains the continuity of the keel strength up to PLATING
the main deck. The decks support the stem at various
intermediate points along the stem structure between the The outer bottom and side plating forms a strong,
keel and the decks. watertight shell. Shell plating consists of approximately
rectangular steel plates arranged longitudinally in rows
At various levels and at regular intervals along the or courses called strakes. The strakes are lettered,
stem structure between the keel and the decks are beginning with the A strake, which is just outboard of
horizontal members called breast hooks. Breast hooks the keel, and working up to the uppermost side strake.

Figure 2-14.—Bulbous-bow configuration.

The end joint formed by adjoining plates in a strake very much upon the strength and tightness of the
is called a butt. The joint between the edges of two connections between the individual pieces. In today’s
adjoining strakes is called a seam. Seams are also modern naval vessels, joints are welded flush together
welded flush. Butts and seams are illustrated in figure to form a smooth surface.
In general, seams and butts are located so that they
do not interfere with longitudinals, bulkheads, decks, Bilge keels are fitted in practically all ships at the
and other structural members. Since the hull structure is turn of the bilge. Bilge keels extend 50 to 75 percent of
composed of a great many individual pieces, the the length of the hull. Bilge keels consist of two plates
strength and tightness of the ship as a whole depend forming a “V” shape welded to the hull, and on large

Figure 2-15.—Stern Structure.

Figure 2-16.—Section of a ship, showing plating and framing.

ships may extend out from the hull nearly 3 feet. Bilge stringer strake is usually heavier than the other deck
keels serve to reduce the extent of the ship's rolling. strakes, and it serves as a continuous longitudinal
stringer, providing longitudinal strength to the ship’s
DECKS structure.

Decks provide both longitudinal and transverse STANCHIONS

strength to the ship. Deck plates, which are similar to
the plates used in side and bottom shell plating, are To reinforce the deck transverses and to keep the
supported by deck beams and deck longitudinales. deck transverse brackets and side frames from carrying
the total load, vertical stanchions or columns are fitted
The term uppermost strength deck is applied to the between decks. Stanchions are constructed in various
deck that completes the enclosure of the box girder and ways of various materials. Some are made of pipe or
the continuity of the ship's structure. It is the highest rolled shapes. The stanchion shown in figure 2-18 is in
continuous deck—usually the main or weather deck. fairly common use; this pipe stanchion consists of a
The term strength deck also applies to any continuous steel tube that is fitted with special pieces for securing
deck that carries some of the longitudinal load. On it at the upper end (head) and at the lower end (heel).
destroyers, frigates, and similar ships in which the main
deck is the only continuous high deck, the main deck is BULKHEADS
the strength deck. The flight deck is the uppermost
strength deck on aircraft carriers (CVs and LHDs) that Bulkheads are the vertical partitions that, extending
carry helicopters, but the main or hangar deck is the athwartships and fore and aft, provide compartmentation
strength deck on older types of carriers. to the interior of the ship. Bulkheads may be either
structural or nonstructural. Structural bulkheads, which
The main deck is supported by deck transverses and tie the shell plating, framing, and decks together, are
deck longitudinales. Deck transverses are the transverse capable of withstanding fluid pressure; these bulkheads
members of the framing structure. The transverse beams usually provide watertight compartmentation. Nonstruc-
are attached to and supported by the frames at the sides, tural bulkheads are lighter; they are used chiefly for
as shown in figure 2-17. Deck girders are similar to separating activities aboard ship.
longitudinales in the bottom structure in that they run
fore and aft and intersect the transverse beams at right Bulkheads consist of plating and reinforcing beams.
angles. The reinforcing beams are known as bulkhead stiffeners
(fig. 2-19). Bulkhead stiffeners are usually placed in the
The outboard strake of deck plating that connects
with the shell plating is called the stringer strake. The

Figure 2-17.—Transverse beam and frame. Figure 2-18.—Pipe stanchion.

of flooding in the compartments that they bound. To
form watertight boundaries, structural bulkheads must
be joined to all decks, shell plating, bulkheads, and
other structural members with which they come in
contact. Main subdivision bulkheads extend through the
watertight volume of the ship, from the keel to the
bulkhead deck, and serve as flooding boundaries in the
event of damage below the waterline.


Ship repair is the fundamental duty of the Hull

Maintenance Technician. In this chapter, you have been
exposed to the basic organization of the IMA and some
of the personnel assigned to this type of organization.
You have also been exposed to the basics of the QA
program and its link to maintenance. When assigned to
your command you should study your command’s
Figure 2-19.—Bulkhead stiffeners.
organization and QA program for a greater understand-
ing of your role in that organization. As you gain
vertical plane and aligned with deck longitudinales; the experience and advance in rate you will be given the
stiffeners are secured at top and bottom to any opportunity to become a work center supervisor. The
intermediate deck by brackets attached to deck plating. appointment as a work center supervisor carries a lot of
The size of the stiffeners depends upon their spacing, responsibility and accountability for your actions. But
the height of the bulkhead, and the hydrostatic pressure the role of a work center supervisor is often a reward-
that the bulkhead is designed to withstand. ing and challenging position. As a work center
supervisor you will be expected to organize, plan, and
Bulkheads and bulkhead stiffeners must be strong supervise the completion of various tasks that met all
enough to resist excessive bending or buckling in case the requirements of the QA program.




Upon completion of this chapter, you should be able to do the following:

Identify, the various characteristics of wood, and tree growth and structure.

Identify the various methods used in cutting and seasoning lumber.

Identify common defects and blemishes of lumber.

Identify the various grades of lumber and the methods used to measure

Identify types of wood joinery to include cuts, joints, fasteners, and materials.

Recognize the proper method and necessary took and equipment for laying
out and cutting joints.

Identify applications for the various joints.

Recognize the purpose and use of different types of fastening materials.

Identify the types of glue and their application methods.

Identify the various sanding materials and their proper uses.


Although Navy ships are now made largely of In the lumber industry, woods are classified as
steel and other metals, there is still plenty of hardwoods or softwoods. These two terms are more
woodworking for HTs to do. Cruisers and carriers as a matter of convenience than as an exact
usually have a shop equipped with the necessary classification. In fact, this classification does not
handtools and three or more standard woodworking depend on how hard the wood is. It depends on
machines; tenders and repair ships have large shops what kind of leaves the trees have. If the tree has
with all types of woodworking machines. broad leaves that shed in winter, the wood is
classified as hardwood. If the tree has needle leaves
An HT is required to have a knowledge of the and cones, the wood is classified as softwood.
types of wood and woodworking glue, the principles These classifications are somewhat confusing
of wood finishing, and to be able to solve problems because some softwoods are harder than some
dealing with the number of board feet in a piece of hardwoods, and some hardwoods are softer than
lumber. This chapter provides information related most softwoods.
to these requirements.

Hardwoods are used in construction and repair
work because of their strength, durability, and ability
to resist warpage. They are used to make furniture,
dowels, and some patterns. Hardwoods include ash,
birch, beech, white oak, poplar, walnut, and maple.

HTs prefer softwoods for most patterns because

they work easily. Softwoods are also used as
structural lumber, boat planking, and for shoring.
Softwoods include white cedar, cypress, Douglas fir,
white pine, yellow pine, and redwood.


Wood consists of small cells. The size and

arrangement of these cells determine the grain of Figure 3-2.—Structure of wood.
the wood and many of its properties. Look at a
freshly cut tree stump. You will see thousands of and the bark (fig. 3-1). Sapwood is lighter in color
large and small cells arranged in circular rings than heartwood.
around the pith or center of the tree. The large
cells have thin walls, and the smaller cells have thick The cambium layer (fig. 3-1) is the boundary
walls (figs. 3-1 and 3-2). Rings form because of a between the sapwood and the bark. New sapwood
difference in the growth rate during various seasons cells form in this thin layer.
of the year. In spring, a tree grows rapidly and
builds up a layer of soft, large cells. These cells Medullary rays (fig. 3-1) are radial lines of wood
appear in the cross section of the trunk as the cells. They are highly visible. Their function is to
light-colored rings (spring rings). move cell liquids horizontally in the tree trunk.
When speaking of medullary rays, we use thickness
As the weather gets hotter during early summer, to refer to the horizontal dimension, and width to
the growth rate slows. The summer cells form refer to the vertical dimension.
closer together and become dark rings (summer
rings). The age of a tree can be determined very When a tree is sawed lengthwise, the annual
accurately by counting these dark rings. Some trees, rings form a pattern called the grain. Several terms
such as oak and walnut, have very distinctive rings. describe wood grain.
White pine is so uniform that you can barely see the
rings. If the wood cells that form the grain are
closely packed and small, the wood is
The sapwood of a tree is the outer section of the fine-grained or close-grained. Maple and
tree between the heartwood (darker center wood) birch are good examples.

If the cells are large and porous, the wood

is coarse-grained or open-grained. Oak,
walnut, and mahogany are examples of
coarse-grained wood.

When the wood cells are straight and

parallel to the trunk of the tree, the wood is

If the grain is crooked, slanting, or twisted,

the wood is cross-grained.

Figure 3-1.—Cross section of a tree.

When a log is sawed lengthwise into boards, Slash cutting is the easier, quicker, and less
each saw cut crosses the annual rings at an angle. wasteful of the two methods. The surface knots that
If the angle between the saw cut and the rings is 45° appear in slash-cut lumber affect the strength of the
or greater, the board has a vertical grain. If the lumber much less than the knots that appear in
angle is less than 45°, the board has a flat grain. If rift-cut lumber. However, if a log is sawed to
the log feeds through without turning, the first few produce all slash-cut lumber, more boards will have
outside boards cut off will be flat-grained. The knots than if the log were all rift cut.
boards cut from the center section will be
vertical-grained. The last few boards cut will be Rift-cut lumber provides edge grain on both
flat-grained. By turning the log between saw cuts faces. If hardwood is rift cut, it is quarter-sawed
(fig. 3-3), you can produce all vertical-grained or all lumber. If softwood is rift cut, it is edge-grain
flat-grained lumber. lumber. When an entire log is slash cut, several
boards near the center of the log will actually be rift
Vertical-grained wood resists wear better than cut.
flat-grained wood of the same species. Most
flat-grained wood will take and hold a finish better Getting as many edge-grained boards as possible
than most vertical-grained wood. Use the term from a tree requires that the logs first be sawed into
texture to express the relative size of the pores quarters (fig. 3-3). Then, each quarter is sawed into
(cells) and fibers as coarse or fine textured and even planks by one of the four methods shown. The
or uneven textured. method used depends on the intended use for the
lumber. Radial quarter sawing will yield lumber
CUTTING LUMBER that is stronger and will warp less than that gotten
by any other method of sawing. The disadvantages,
In a large lumber mill, logs are processed into however, are that this method is more costly, takes
lumber with huge band saws and circular saws. The longer, and is more wasteful of material.
two methods of sawing the logs are slash cutting and
rift cutting (fig. 3-4). Slash cutting is from a series SEASONING LUMBER
of parallel cuts. If hardwoods are cut, the process
is termed plain sawing. If softwoods are cut, the Once lumber has been sawed, it must be
process is termed flat-grain sawing. seasoned (dried). The purpose of seasoning is to
remove the moisture from the cells. Moisture
(water or sap) occurs in two separate forms—free
water and imbibed water. Free water is the
moisture the individual cells contain internally.
Imbibed water is the moisture contained by the cell
walls. During drying or seasoning, the free water
evaporates until a minimum remains. The amount
of moisture remaining is the fiber-saturation point.

Figure 3-3.—Four methods of quarter sawing. Figure 3-4.—Slash cutting and rift cutting.

The fiber-saturation point varies from 25 to 30 worms, and fungi, which can cause defects either
percent, but for general purposes is accepted as 30 before or after the lumber is cut. Improper
percent. Below the fiber-saturation point, the seasoning causes other defects and blemishes.
imbibed water extracts from the cell walls, causing
a reduction in the thickness of the walls. The most common defects are knots. Knots
occur in most kinds of lumber and are the result of
Wood shrinks across the grain when the branch growth. An interwoven knot forms while the
moisture content lowers below the fiber-saturation tree is alive. Its annual rings are interwoven with
point. Evaporation or absorption of moisture causes those of the trunk of the tree. Usually an
shrinking and swelling of the wood cells, changing interwoven knot is solid and is not a serious defect.
the size of the cells. Therefore, the lowering or If the limb dies before the tree is cut, the wood
raising of the moisture content causes lumber to formed in the trunk of the tree makes no further
shrink or swell. connection with the limb, but grows around it. This
produces a dead knot. This may be loose enough to
The loss of moisture during seasoning causes drop out or may be tight enough to hold its shape
wood to be (1) harder, (2) stronger, (3) stiffer, and and position when the tree is being sawed into
(4) lighter in weight. There are two methods for lumber. A spike knot is a long, thin knot caused by
seasoning lumber—air drying and kiln drying. the way the tree was sawed. Small, solid knots are
not objectionable in most of the lumber used aboard
Air-dried lumber is exactly what the name ship. If lumber has loose or large knots, you should
implies. It is wood placed in a shed or in the open cut it into smaller pieces to eliminate these defects.
to dry. This method takes up to 7 years to season
some woods. Heartshake and windshake (fig. 3-5) are other
lumber defects. Heartshake is caused by the action
A faster method of drying is known as kiln of the wind and is a lengthwise separation of the
drying. The wood is placed in a kiln and treated annual rings. Windshake is also a defect caused by
with steam. The time required for drying varies the action of the wind, which causes the tree to
from 2 or 3 days to several weeks. Often a twist.
combination of air-dried and kiln-dried methods is
used to dry lumber. A CHECK is a crack or separation, usually
short, caused by the uneven shrinking of the wood
Lumber is dry enough for most uses when the cells in seasoning. Do not confuse these with pitch
moisture content reduces to about 12 or 15 percent. pockets. Pitch pockets are small enclosed spaces in
However, lumber used for patterns should be drier. the wood filled with sap or pitch (rosin).
The moisture content should be 8 or 10 percent for
hardwoods and 10 to 12 percent for softwoods. As WARP or WARPAGE is a lumber defect in
an HT, you will learn to judge the dryness of a which a board distorts from a true, flat surface; it is
wood by its color, weight, smell, and feel. Looking twisted, bowed, or cupped warped. The varying
at the shavings and chips also helps identify wood. amount of moisture in the wood changes the
diameter of the cells. This causes the board to
LUMBER DEFECTS AND BLEMISHES shrink or swell in width as well as in thickness, but
not in length. Redwood is an exception because it
A defect in lumber is any flaw that affects the will swell or shrink in all three dimensions.
strength, durability, or utility value of the lumber.
A blemish is a flaw that mars only the appearance
of the lumber. A blemish that affects the utility
value of the lumber (such as a blemish in wood
intended for fine furniture or cabinet work) is also
a defect.

You will seldom find a piece of lumber that

does not have a defect or blemish of some sort.
Some defects and blemishes are the result of decay Figure 3-5.—Defects in logs.
in the growing tree. Others are the result of insects,

WANE is a term that identifies a board that is All softwood framing lumber, and most other
not full or true to size. It lacks wood along corners, softwood lumber, is cut to even-numbered foot
edges, or ends, or is partially composed of bark. lengths, such as 10 feet, 12 feet, and 14 feet.
Hardwood is sometimes cut to odd-numbered as
BLUE STAIN is a blemish caused by a mold well as even-numbered foot lengths.
fungus. It does not weaken the wood.
Hardwoods used for cabinets, furniture, and
A BARK POCKET is a patch of bark that has other finish work are cut to specific thicknesses (in
had the tree grow over. It is entirely or almost graduations of 1/4 inch). They are cut to random
entirely enclosed. widths and lengths (RWL) with a specified
minimum. For example, a written order for walnut
CROSS-GRAINED LUMBER has grain that is would be 4/4x4x6 RWL. This would tell the
not parallel to the length of the lumber. supplier that you require material 1 inch thick (4/4),
at least 4 inches wide, and at least 6 feet long.
There are several lumber defects caused by
improper seasoning. One common one is LUMBER GRADES
honeycombing. Honeycombing is a series of checks
or cracks on the surface or in the center of the Lumber grades are based on the type and extent
lumber caused by drying stresses. If the stress is not of defects, size of the pieces, and seasoning
relieved by the addition of moisture during the condition. Softwood lumber is graded for quality
seasoning process, honeycombing will result. according to American Lumber Standards. These
standards are set by the National Bureau of
LUMBER SIZES Standards for the U.S. Department of Commerce.
The major quality grades, in descending order of
Lumber is sized according to how thick it is. quality, are select lumber (usually used for interior
Boards are pieces of lumber less than 2 inches thick. finish) and common lumber (usually used for house
Planks or dimension lumber are pieces of lumber construction). Each grade has subdivisions in
from 2 to 5 inches thick. Timbers are heavier descending order of quality as follows:
pieces. Softwoods are usually cut to standard
thicknesses, widths, and lengths. 1. Select lumber

The dressed dimensions of lumber are always Grade A lumber. This lumber is select
smaller than the specified size (nominal size) (table lumber that is practically free of defects and
3-1). The nominal size is the size of the lumber in blemishes.
its rough form as it comes from the saw mill.
Dressed lumber has been surfaced (planed smooth) Grade B lumber. This is select lumber that
on two or four sides. Lumber surfaced on two sides contains a few minor blemishes.
is S2S (surfaced on two sides). Lumber surfaced on
four sides is S4S (surfaced on four sides). Grade C lumber. This is finish item lumber
that contains more blemishes and more significant
Table 3-1.—Nominal and Dressed Lumber Sizes blemishes than grade B. These blemishes must be
Nominal Size Dressed Dimensions able to be easily and thoroughly concealed with
2×2 1 5/8 × 1 5/8
2×4 1 5/8 × 3 5/8 Grade D lumber. This is finish item lumber
that contains more blemishes and more significant
2×6 1 5/8 × 5 5/8 blemishes than grade C, but it is still capable of
2×8 1 5/8 × 7 1/2 presenting a satisfactory appearance when painted.
2 × 10 1 5/8 × 8 1/2
2. Common lumber
2 × 12 1 5/8 × 11 1/2
4×4 3 5/8 × 3 5/8 No. 1 common lumber. This is sound,
tight-knotted stock containing only a few minor

defects. It must be suitable for use as watertight It is common practice to state the thickness
lumber. dimension in inches first; the width in inches second;
and the length in feet last. For example, if you were
No. 2 common lumber. This lumber told to get a 2 by 4 by 6, you would know to get a
contains a few significant defects, but no knotholes board 2 inches thick by 4 inches wide by 6 feet long.
or other serious defects.
The standard measure for lumber is a board
No. 3 common lumber. This lumber foot. This is abbreviated as bf or bd ft. A board
contains a few defects that are larger and coarser foot is simply one-twelfth of a cubic foot. A board
than those in No. 2 common; for example, measuring 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12
occasional knotholes. inches long contains 1 bd ft. Figure 3-6 shows
different size pieces of wood. Each one contains 1
No. 4 common lumber. This lumber is low bd ft.
quality and contains serious defects like knotholes,
checks, shakes, and decay. You may use several formulas to determine bd
ft. The one most commonly used is the inches,
No. 5 common lumber. This lumber is inches, feet method. To use it, multiply the
capable only of holding together under ordinary thickness (T) in inches by the width (W) in inches
handling. by the length (L) in feet. Next, divide the product
by 12. Write the formula as follows:
Mill-run lumber is everything that is sawed
except the slabs (bark). Some associations use
grades of construction known as standard, utility, bd ft = T(in.) × W(in.) × L(ft.)
and economy. 12

All species of lumber are covered by the grading Suppose you want to determine the bd ft
rules and size standards of some association or contained in a piece of wood measuring 1 inch thick
grading bureau. Softwood lumber standards are set by 8 inches wide by 9 feet long. Using the formula,
by a regional association of manufacturers. In a few you would work it like this:
cases, a softwood species growing in more than one
region is graded under rules of two different bd ft = T(in.) × W(in.) × L(ft.)
associations. It is better to buy according to these 12
association grades than to try to buy according to
individualspecifications, unless the requirements are 1(in.) × 8(in.) × 9(ft.)
very unusual. Occasionally a departure from the bd ft =
standard grade provision is necessary. This is
handled as an exception to a standard grade.
bd ft = 6
Hardwoods are graded as firsts, seconds, selects,
No. 1 common, and No. 2 common. These grades
indicate only the amount of clear usable lumber in Therefore, a board measuring 1 inch by 8 inches by
a particular piece. They are established by the 9 feet will contain 6 bd ft.
National Hardwood Manufacturers’ Association.
The way to buy hardwoods for any use other than
construction is by personal inspection.


When you are measuring lumber, thickness is the

dimension between the two face surfaces, Width is
the dimension between the two edges that are
parallel to the wood grain. Length is the dimension
between two ends and is parallel to the wood grain
regardless of the width dimension. Figure 3-6.—The board foot.

A board less than 1 inch thick is figured as 1 measurement of a piece of lumber. Therefore, if
inch when you are calculating bd ft. A board more you had a 2 by 4 by 6, its linear measurement would
than 1 inch thick is figured to the next larger be 6 feet. This method is often used when buying
1/4-inch increment. Thus, a board having a dimensioned lumber for construction purposes.
thickness of 1 1/8 inches calculates as 1 1/4 inches.
Board measure calculates on the basis of the COMMON TYPES OF WOODS
nominal not the dressed dimension of the lumber.
Before proceeding with this chapter, review the
Another common way of measuring lumber is by sources, uses, and characteristics of the various types
linear measure. Linear measure is simply the length of common woods provided in table 3-2.

Table 3-2.—Common Woods


Ash East of Rockies. Oars, boat thwarts, Strong, heavy, hard, tough,
benches, gratings, elastic, close straight grain,
hammer handles, shrinks very little, takes excellent
cabinets, ball bats, wagon finish, lasts well.
construction, farm
Balsa Ecuador. Rafts, food boxes, linings Lightest of all woods. Very soft,
of refrigerators, life strong for its weight, good heat
reserves, loud speakers, insulating qualities, odorless.
sound-proofing, air-con-
ditioning devices, model
airplane construction.
Basswood Eastern half of U.S. Low-grade furniture, Soft, very light, weak, brittle, not
with exception of cheaply constructed durable, shrinks considerably.
coastal regions. buildings, interior finish, Interior to poplar, but very
shelving, drawers, boxes, uniform, works easily. Takes
drainboards, wooden- screws and nails well and does
ware, novelties, excelsior, not twist or warp.
general millwork.
Beech East of Mississippi Cabinetwork, imitation Similar to birch but not so
River, Southeastern mahogany furniture, durable when exposed to
Canada. wood dowels, capping, weather. Shrinks and checks
boat trim, interior finish, considerably. Close-grained,
tool handles, turnery, light or dark red color.
shoe lasts, carving,
Birch East of Mississippi Cabinetwork, imitation Hard, durable, fine grain, even
River and north of Gulf mahogany furniture, texture, heavy, stiff, strong,
Coast States, Southeast wood dowels, capping, tough. Takes high polish, works
Canada, Newfoundland. boat trim, interior finish, easily. Forms excellent base for
tool handles, turnery, white enamel finish, but not
carving. durable when exposed.
Heartwood is light to dark
reddish brown in color.

Table 3-2.—Common Woods—Continued


Butternut Southern Canada, Toys, altars, woodenware, Very much like walnut in color
Minnesota, Eastern millwork, interior trim, but softer. Not so soft as white
U.S. as far south as furniture, boats, scientific pine and basswood. Easy to
Alabama and Florida. instruments. work, coarse-grained, fairly

Cypress Maryland to Texas, Small boat planking, Many characteristics similar to

along Mississippi siding, shingles, sash, white cedar. Water-resistant
Valley to Illinois. doors, tanks, silos, railway qualities make it excellent for use
ties. as boat planking.
Doulgas fir Pacific Coast, British Patternmaking, deck Excellent structural lumber.
Columbia. planking on large ships, Strong, easy to work, clear
shores, strongbacks, plugs, straight grained, soft but brittle.
filling pieces and Heartwood is durable in contact
bulkheads of small boats, with ground. Best structural
building construction, timber of northwest.
dimension timber,
Elm States east of Agricultural implements, Slippery, heavy, hard, tough.
Colorado. wheel-stock, boats, Durable, difficult to split, not
furniture, crossties, posts, resistant to decay.
Hickory Arkansas, Tennessee, Tools, handles, wagon Very heavy, hard, stronger and
Ohio, Kentucky. stock, hoops, baskets, tougher than other native wood,
vehicles, wagon spokes. but checks and shrinks. Difficult
to work. Subject to decay and
insect attack.
Lignum Central America. Patternmaking, block Dark greenish brown. Unusually
vitae sheaves, and pulleys, hard, close-grained, very heavy,
water-exposed shaft resinous. Difficult to split and
bearings of small boats work, has soapy feeling.
and ships, tool handles,
small turned articles, and
mallet heads.
Live oak Southern Atlantic and Implements, wagons, Very heavy, hard, tough, strong,
Gulf Coasts of U.S., shipbuilding. durable. Difficult to work. Light
Oregon, California. brown or yellow sap wood nearly
Mahogany Honduras, Mexico, Patternmaking, furniture, Brown to red color. One of
Central America, boats, decks, fixtures, most useful of cabinet woods,
Florida, West Indies, interior trim in expensive hard, durable. Does not split
Central Africa, other homes, musical badly. Open-grained, takes
tropical sections. instruments. beautiful finish when grain is
filled but checks, swells, shrinks,
warps slightly.

Table 3-2.—Common Woods—Continued


Maple All states east of Patternmaking, excellent Fine-grained, grain often curly or
Colorado, Southern furniture, high-grade “bird's eyes.” Heavy, tough, hard,
Canada. floors, tool handles, ship strong. Rather easy to work, but
construction crossties, not durable. Heartwood is light
counter tops, bowling pins. brown, sap wood is nearly white.
Norway States bordering Great Dimension timber, masts, Light, fairly hard, strong. Not
pine Lakes. spars, piling, interior trim. durable in contact with ground.
Philippine Philippine Islands Patternmaking, pleasure Not a true mahogany. Shrinks,
mahogany boats, medium-grade expands, splits, warps, but
furntiure, interior trim. available in long, wide, clear
Poplar Virginias, Tennessee, Patternmaking, low-grade Soft, cheap obtainable in wide
Kentucky, Mississippi furniture, cheaply boards. Warps, shrinks, rots
Valley. constructed buildings, easily. Light, brittle, weak, but
interior finish, shelving, works easily and hold nails well,
drawers, boxes. fine-textured.
Red cedar East of Colorado and Mothproof chests, lining Very light, soft, weak, brittle, low
north of Florida. for linen closets, sills, and shrinkage. Great durability,
other uses similar to white fragrant scent. Generally knotty,
cedar. beautiful when finished in
natural color. Easily worked.
Red oak Virginias, Tennessee, Interior finish, furniture, Tends to warp. Coarse-grained.
Arkansas, Kentucky, cabinets, millwork, Does not last well when exposed
Ohio, Missouri, crossties when preserved. to weather. Porous easily
Maryland. impregnated with preservative.
Heavy, tough, strong.
Redwood California. Patternmaking, general Inferior to yellow pine and fir in
construction, tanks, strength. Shrinks and splits little.
paneling. Extremely soft, light straight-
grained. Very durable,
exceptionally decay resistant.
Spruce New York, New Railway ties, resonance Light, soft, low strength, fair
England, West wood, piles, airplanes, durability, close grained,
Virginia, Central oars, masts, spars, baskets. yellowish, sap wood indistinct.
Canada, Great Lakes
states, Idaho,
Washington, Oregon.
Sugar pine California, Oregon. Same as white pine. Very light, soft, resembles white
Teak India, Burma, Java, Deck planking, shaft logs Light brown color. Strong, easily
Thailand. for small boats. worked, durable, resistant to
damage by moisture.

Table 3-2.—Common Woods—Continued


Walnut Eastern half of U.S. Expensive furniture, Fine cabinet wood. Coarse-
except Southern cabinets, interior grained but takes beautiful finish
Atlantic and Gulf woodwork, gun stocks, when pore closed with wood
Coasts, some in New tool handles, airplane filler. Medium weight, hard,
Mexico, Arizona, propellers, fine boats, strong. Easily worked. Dark
California. musical instruments. chocolate color. Does not warp
or check, brittle.
White cedar Eastern Coast of U.S. Boat planking, railroad Soft, light weight, close-grained.
and around Great ties, shingles, siding posts, Exceptionally durable when
Lakes. poles. exposed to water. Not strong
enough for building construction.
Brittle, low shrinkage, generally
White oak Virginias, Tennessee, Boat and ship stems, Heavy, hard, strong. Medium
Arkansas, Kentucky, sternposts, knees, sheer coarse-grained. Tough, dense,
Ohio, Missouri, strakes, fenders, capping, most durable of hardwoods.
Maryland, Indiana. transoms, shaft logs, Elastic, rather easy to work, but
framing for buildings, shrinks and likely to check.
strong furniture, tool Light brownish grey in color with
handles, crossties, reddish tines. Medullary rays are
agricultural implements, large and outstanding and
fence posts. present beautiful figures when
quarter sawed. Receives high
White pine Minnesota, Wisconsin, Patterns, any interior job Easy to work. Fine-grained, free
Maine, Michigan, or exterior job that of knots. Takes excellent finish.
Idaho, Montana, doesn’t require strength, Durable when exposed to water,
Washington, Oregon, window sash, interior trim, expands when wet, shrinks when
California. millwork, cabinets, dry. Soft, white. Nails without
cornices. splitting, not very strong,
Yellow pine Virginia to Texas. Most important lumber Hard, strong, heartwood is
for heavy construction and durable in the ground. Grain
exterior work, keelsons, varies. Heavy, tough, reddish
risings, filling pieces, brown in color. resinous,
clamps, floors, bulkheads medullary rays well marked.
of small boats, shores,
wedges, plugs,
strongbacks, staging, joists,
posts, piling, ties, paving

LUMBER much moisture or pitch. Such boards are difficult

to work with, shrink excessively, and will not keep a
Woods that have a comparatively straight, close smooth surface.
grain, that are easy to work, and that do not warp or
shrink easily are the woods you should select for A board that contains excess pitch may be
pattern work. Do not select boards containing too unusually heavy. When planed, large amounts of

pitch may be seen. Excessive moisture cannot direction of the grain, but it is excellent for
always be detected by weight. Detection comes cross-grain carving. Mahogany will outlast pine 3
when the board is crosscut or dressed. to 1.

Kinds of Lumber Several varieties of mahogany are used. Spanish

mahogany is from the West Indies, Honduras
The woods most frequently used in the mahogany (also called baywood) and Mexican
carpenter shop for most projects are redwood, white mahogany is from Central America and Mexico, and
pine, ponderosa pine, mahogany, and poplar. Senegal mahogany is from Africa. Distinguishing
between varieties is difficult. Mahogany is usually
REDWOOD is inferior to the better grades of reddish-brown, but it often varies in color.
sugar pine and white pine, but for most patterns it
works well. The best grades work easily. Redwood POPLAR is used in many carpenter and pattern
has one peculiar property that no other wood has—it shops. It is soft with close, straight grain. Its use is
shrinks in length as well as in thickness and in limited because of brittleness and excessive warping
width. The name redwood derives from the and shrinkage. Poplar ranges in color from
reddish-brown color of the wood itself. It is related off-white to light yellow. The poplar tree grows in
to pine but is much more durable when in contact the eastern part of the United States. It goes from
with soil or when exposed to weather. the Gulf of Mexico north into southern Canada.

The redwood tree grows exclusively on the West Other woods used by HTs are discussed in the
Coast. The age of these forest giants runs as high following paragraphs.
as 3,000 to 4,000 years. They frequently grow to a
height of 350 feet, with a diameter of 25 feet or MAPLE, especially eastern maple, is very hard
greater. and is difficult to work. It varies in color from light
brown to white. Oregon maple (western soft maple)
WHITE PINE is the best wood for making is close-grained and reddish-brown in color. This
simple patterns that are used less than 30 times and wood is mostly used in the manufacture of furniture
that are under 2 feet in length. This softwood is and tool handles. Oregon maple is also used for
smooth, straight and even-grained, light, and warps certain projects that must endure heavy wear or that
very little when properly seasoned. White pine that are weak because of their shape or size. Maple will
is free from knots is the cheapest of lumber. With outlast pine 8 to 1.
sharp tools, you can cut and carve white pine almost
like soap. White pine takes a good coat of lacquer WHITE ASH is open-grained, elastic, and hard.
or glue, but it chips or breaks easily. Its color The color of the heartwood is light brown. The
ranges from almost white to light yellowish-brown. sapwood is almost white.

In the West, the name white pine usually applies BLACK WALNUT grows in the eastern part of
to the native sugar pine that grows in northern the United States. It is very durable and very hard.
California and southern Oregon. When used as pattern material, black walnut will
outlast pine 5 to 1.
PONDEROSA PINE is sometimes mistakenly
called sugar pine. It closely resembles the sugar HICKORY is the strongest, heaviest, and
pine, but it is not good for some types of work such toughest of all American woods. It is also flexible.
as pattern work. It warps and shrinks a lot and has The color of hickory varies from brown to white.
more pitch than sugar pines.
OREGON PINE (Douglas fir) is of two
MAHOGANY is more durable and harder than varieties, red and yellow. The yellow is the more
pine. Use it when 30 to 100 castings are required. valuable of the two, being hard, strong, and very
Also, use it for patterns having long or thin sections durable—but difficult to work.
or projections. Mahogany is strong, coarse-grained,
and warps very little. It is soft enough to cut and CHERRY is brown in color, close-grained, and
nail easily, yet hard enough to stand a lot of wear. very hard—but warps excessively. Cherry is a little
Mahogany is difficult to plane or carve in the

difficult to carve, but when used for small patterns, flat surface without full air circulation will usually
it will outlast pine 5 to 1. warp toward the exposed surface. The air draws
more moisture from the exposed surface than from
LIGNUM VITAE is excessively heavy, hard, and the underneath surface.
resinous. Its color varies from light yellow to dark
greenish-brown—at times almost black. This wood The carpenter shop usually has overhead lumber
is native to tropical America, New South Wales, and storage racks. The bulk of the lumber is stowed in
New Zealand. other parts of the ship because of space limitations
aboard a repair ship or tender.
TEAK is heavy, strong, and oily. It has a dark
color. It does not shrink, crack, or warp. Teak You should maintain a careful record of the
comes from East India. lumber used and on hand. If possible, at least 3
months’ supply should be on hand.
Care and Storage of Lumber
Lumber is a tool like the saw or plane and
should be considered as such. Store and care for Laminated lumber is made up of layers of wood
lumber properly. This will prevent it from becoming glued face-to-face (fig. 3-7). The parts glued
water-soaked, rotted, or warped. The best way to together to make laminated lumber may be thinly
stow lumber is by stacking it on end in racks. This sliced sheets of veneer or they may be sawed boards.
way air can circulate around all the boards.
Circulation dries the wood evenly and reduces One advantage of laminated wood is that it can
warping. be any desired thickness. Also, staggering the ends
of individual layers can produce timbers that are
Room for storing lumber on end is hard to find much longer than solid timbers.
aboard ship. Lumber usually gets stored in the next
best manner. The accepted method is to store the Plywood (fig. 3-8) is thin layers of wood glued
lumber horizontally. Separate the lumber by sizes. face-to-face. It usually has the grain of each layer
Put the l-inch lumber together, the 1 1/2-inch at right angles to the next layer. Plywood alternates
lumber together, and so on. When placing the grain each ply, and laminated wood never alternates
lumber in racks, you should place small strips or grain. Plywood always has an odd number of plies.
battens about 1 inch thick across the boards about Veneered stock for furniture manufacture usually
6 feet apart. This will separate the boards and form has five layers. A thick layer called the core is in
a space for the air to circulate around them. Air the center. The layers that are glued on with the
circulation is important. A dressed board laid on its grain running across are called cross bands. The
surface layers or faces are placed so their grain runs
parallel to the length of the panel.

One-quarter inch and one-eighth inch fir

plywood has only 3 plies. Plywood always has an
odd number of plies—up to 15. The standard size of

Figure 3-7.—Laminated lumber. Figure 3-8.—Plywood.

plywood sheets is 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, though fiber faces that provide better painting surfaces and
smaller and larger sizes are available. Because of better wearing qualities.
the cross-grain effect, splitting plywood is very
difficult and shrinking and swelling are rare. Because of the conditions of its manufacture,
plywood is dry when received. It should be stored
The development of special glues and bonding in a closed shed. For long storage, a heated storage
materials has made plywood highly resistant to area is recommended.
water. It was widely used during World War II and
is still in use in the Navy. Plywood is commonly stacked in solid piles.
Under humid conditions, edges swell because of
Two basic grades of plywood are interior and exposed end grain. This swelling causes dishing,
exterior. Interior plywood is unreliable in wet especially in the upper panels of high piles. Reduce
places. Exterior plywood will keep its original form dishing by placing strips between sheets of stacked
and strength when subjected to the elements. It is plywood. Use enough strips to prevent the plywood
suitable for permanent exterior use provided it is from sagging between strips. Dry l-inch strips are
properly protected from the elements. Most suitable for supporting plywood.
plywood is branded or stamped on the edge with the
symbol EXT. or INT. More complete information Hardboard is known by several trade names. It
is stamped on the back of the plywood sheet. A is wood fibers separated, treated, and then subjected
typical Douglas fir back stamp, with all symbols to heat and heavy pressure. Hardboard is available
explained, is shown in figure 3-9. in thicknesses from 1/16 inch to 5/6 inch. The most
common size is 4-foot by 8-foot sheets, but other
Plywood is graded by the quality of the face sizes are available. Hardboard comes in a plain,
veneers. Grade A is the best. Grade D is the smooth surface or in several glossy finishes. Some
poorest (fig. 3-9). Grading is based upon the finishes imitate tile or stone. Use class B treated
number of defects, such as knotholes, pitch pockets, hardboard where moisture resistance or strength is
and splits. It also considers the presence of streaks, required. Otherwise, class A hardboard is
discolorations, sapwood, shims, and patches in the satisfactory.
face of the panel. Plywood has resin-impregnated

Figure 3-9.—Typical Douglas fir back stamp.

WOOD JOINERY The plain butt joint is the simplest and the one
most used by the HT.
An important skill to master is wood joinery. In
woodworking, joinery is the art of combining two or The doweled joint is usually a plain butt joint
more pieces of material into one. The purpose for that has been given greater strength with wooden
this procedure is to increase dimensions, strength, or dowels. Dowels also reinforce other joints such as
material alignment. Wood joinery includes the the miter and half lap.
manufacture of wood joints and the various devices
or methods used to fasten them together. These When choosing a dowel for edge-to-edge use,
methods include glue, screws, and brads. the dowel diameter should be one-third the
thickness of the stock you are jointing. Thus,
A joint is only as strong as its weakest point. 3/4-inch thick stock would require a 1/4-inch dowel.
This can be the joints if they are incorrectly made or
if you use the wrong joint. Correct joint usage and The tongue-and-groove joint is stronger than the
proper construction can make the joint the strongest butt or dowel joint. It is used for wood flooring.
point of the project.
The splined edge joint is a variation of the
STANDARD JOINTS tongue-and-groove joint. It is easier to make
because two matching grooves and a separate spline
There are four standard methods for joining replace the tongue. Minimal strength is gained if
wood stock edge-to-edge. These methods are the the grain direction of the spline is parallel to the
plain butt, dowel, tongue-and-groove, and splined edges, as shown in figure 3-11. A significant
edge joints shown in figure 3-10. strength gain results when the grain direction of the
spline is perpendicular to the edges.

The thickness of both the spline and tongue

should be one-third of the material thickness. The
width of the spline should be equal to twice the
material thickness, while the tongue width should be
the same as the thickness. For example, 3/4-inch
stock would require a spline measuring 1/4 inch
thick and 1 1/2 inches wide or a tongue measuring
1/4 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide (fig. 3-11).

Lap Joints

Lap joints are shown in figure 3-12. Plain lap

joints are used in all kinds of construction,
particularly if appearance is not a factor. The end
butt half lap is not as strong as the plain lap joint,
but it looks better and requires less space. The
corner half lap works well for framing buildings,
boxes, and cabinets. The cross lap joint joins the
spokes of a wheel pattern.

The scarf joint (fig. 3-13) is a special type of lap

joint that is used to join heavy timbers. For repair
purposes, the recommended slope is 1 in 12. The
cut should slant through the length of a piece of
wood 12 inches for every inch of depth or width.

The end butt joint with fishplates (fig. 3-14) is

Figure 3-10.—Edge joints. useful for joining short members to make long
pieces. Secure the fishplates with nails, screws,

Figure 3-12.—Lap joints.

The gain joint (fig. 3-15) is a special kind of

dado joint. You use it when appearance is a factor.

Rabbet joints are often used with dadoes. They

are cut across or with the grain (fig. 3-16). Cut
rabbets with the circular saw dado head or with the
jointer. They can be cut by hand using special
rabbeting planes.

Dovetail Joints

Cabinetmakers and other skilled woodworkers

often use the dovetail joint (fig. 3-17). It is used
most often in joining the corners of furniture
Figure 3-11.—Tongue and spline joints. drawers and chests because of its locking features.
Such joints are usually made with blind dovetails so

rivets, or bolts. Its main disadvantage is that it is


Dado, Gain, and Rabbet Joints

You would use the plain dado joint (fig. 3-15) to

make cabinets and shelves. You would usually cut
this joint with a dado head (cutters), which fits on a
circular saw. You also can make this cut by hand
using a backsaw or tenon saw and finish it with
chisels. Fasten this joint with glue, nails, or screws. Figure 3-13.—Typical scarf joints.

Figure 3-14.—End butt joint with fishplates.
Figure 3-16.—Rabbet joints.
they cannot be seen from the outside of the
furniture. 3-20) to shape the end of the abutting member to fit
the face of the first member.
Heavier construction that requires locking joints
call for single dovetails and half dovetails. The Mortise-and-Tenon Joints
single dovetail (dovetail key) is a good joint for
attaching a loose piece to a pattern. Dove tails Good furniture has several mortise-and-tenon
require accurate layout. Use a sharp knife edge to joints (fig. 3-21). This joint appears weak, but when
mark the layout, not a pencil. Use a T-bevel to lay glued it is very strong. It can be wedged, split, or
out the angles. You can use the tenon saw to saw offset. You can’t go wrong with properly designed
out most of the waste and then finish the work with and fitted mortise-and-tenon joints. Use the
a chisel. slip-tenon joint the same way as a miter or corner
half-lap joint. Secure it with dowels, screws, bolts,
Box Corner and Miter Joints or nails and then glue it.

Many commercial packing boxes are made with LAYING OUT AND CUTTING JOINTS
the box corner joint (fig. 3-18). It cuts easily on the
circular saw with special dado heads. One of the basic skills you must learn in
woodworking is to join pieces of wood to form tight,
The miter joint (fig. 3-19) is used for picture strong joints. The two joined pieces are members.
frames, boxes, panel frames, and other frames. The two major steps in joining members are layout
Glue the joints, and then fasten miter joints with and cutting. Lay out the joints on the ends, edges,
nails, brads, and corrugated fasteners. or faces of the members. Then cut the members to
the required shapes for joining.
The spline miter is better than the plain miter.
Cut it with the table saw and jig. Other miters
require more work and are used only on special

Coping Joints

When matching inside corner joints between

molding trim members, use the coping joint (fig.

Figure 3-15.—Dado and gain joints. Figure 3-17.—Dovetail joints.

squaring a small board to dimensions by hand
should be the first lesson in woodworking. The six
major steps in the process are shown in figure 3-22.
Practice them until you learn to make a smooth,
square board with minimum planing.
Instruments used for laying out joints are the
combination square, the T-bevel, the marking gauge,
and a bench knife for scoring lines. For hand
cutting joints, use the backsaw, dovetail saw, coping
saw, and various chisels and planes.

You can cut all joints mentioned in this chapter

Figure 3-18.—Box corner joint.
by hand or machine. Whatever the method you use
and whatever the type of joint, always remember the
Cutting accurate joints requires square and true following rule: To ensure a tight joint, always cut
stock. To square and true stock, you use a jointer on the waste side of the line, never on the line itself.
for trueing the edges and a surface planer to get Cutting a groove on the waste side of the line with
uniform thickness. Use a table or radial saw for a knife or chisel will help a backsaw get a smooth
squaring the ends and cutting stock to the desired start.
length. Often, you will have to perform these
operations by hand. Therefore, planing and

Figure 3-19.—Miter joints.

edges and end of each member. This line will
extend from the shoulder line on one edge to the
shoulder line on the opposite edge (fig. 3-23). Be
sure to gauge the cheek line from the face of each
member. If you gauge from both faces, the faces
will be flush after cutting the joint. The faces must
be flush regardless of whether or not the gauge was
set to exactly one-half the thickness. Too much
waste cut from one member offsets a lesser cut from
Figure 3-20.—A coping joint. the other.

If you gauge from the face of one member and

Half-Lap Joints the back of the other, and the gauge is not set to
one-half the thickness, the faces will be out of flush
For half-lap joints (fig. 3-23), the joining by the amount of the error. A rule you should use
members are usually the same thickness. For the for half-lap joints is to always gauge the cheek line
end butt half lap, measure off the desired amount of from the face of the member.
lap from the end of each member. At this point,
use a combination square to guide and to score a Next, make the shoulder cuts by sawing along
line all the way around the member. This is the shoulder line down to the cheek line. Saw from
squaring a line. For the corner half lap, measure the back of the lapping member and from the face
off the width of a member from the end of each of the lapped member (fig. 3-23). Clamp a piece of
member. Square a line all the way around. These wood along the starting groove to steady the saw.
are shoulder lines.
The cheek cuts (sometimes called the side cuts)
Next, you should select the best surface of each are next. Cut them along the waste side of the
member and place it facing up. This is the face of cheek line. Clamp the member in the vise so it
the member. The opposite surface is the back. leans diagonally away from you. With the member
Mark the face of each member plainly. Next, set in this position, you can see the end and the upper
the marking gauge to one-half the thickness of the edge. When the saw reaches the shoulder line on
member. Score a line (called the cheek line) on the

Figure 3-21.—Mortise-and-tongue and slip-tenon joints.

Figure 3-22.—Planing and squaring to dimension.

the upper edge, it will still be some distance away Completing the shoulder cut will detach the
from the shoulder line on the edge you can’t see. waste. The members should fit together with faces,
Reverse the member in the vise, and saw exactly to ends, and edges flush, or near enough to make flush
the shoulder line on that edge. by a little paring with the chisel.

Figure 3-23.—End butt half-lap or comer half-lap joint.

A cross half-lap joint (fig. 3-24) between In the cross half-lap joint, you should chisel the
members of equal cross-section dimensions is laid waste out rather than saw it out. To make the
out and cut as follows: If the members are of the chiseling easier, remove as much stock as possible
same length and they are to lap each other at the with the saw first. Saw a series of kerfs between the
midpoint, place them face-to-face with ends flush. shoulder cuts. In chiseling, make a roughing cut
Then square a center line all the way around. To down to just above the cheek line with a firmer
test the accuracy of the center calculation, turn one chisel and mallet. Hold the chisel bevel down.
of the members end for end. If the center lines still Finish off the bottom with a paring chisel while
meet, the center location is correct. holding the chisel bevel up.

When making a cross half-lap joint, you should You can use a circular saw to cut half-lap
put the best wide surfaces up and mark each face recesses and cross half-lap recesses. For an end
plainly. Lay off one-half the width of a member on half-lap recess, set the table saw blade above the
either side of the center lines; then, square the table a distance equal to one-half the thickness of a
shoulder lines all the way around. Again check for member. Place the member against the miter
accuracy by turning a member end for end. If the gauge, set it at 90° to the saw blade, and make the
shoulder lines meet, the layout is accurate. Next, shoulder cut. Take out the remaining waste by
gauge one-half the thickness of a member. Do this making as many recuts as necessary.
from the face of each member and score check lines
on the edges between the shoulder lines. Next, For a cross half-lap recess, you should proceed
make the shoulder cuts, sawing from the back of the as follows: Set the table saw blade or dado head so
lapping member and from the face of the lapped its height above the table is equal to one-half the
member. thickness of a member. Then, place the member
against the miter gauge set at 90° to the saw blade

Figure 3-24.—Gross half-lap joint.

and make the shoulder cut. Then, reverse the piece the waste side of the line. Start the saw and bring
end for end and repeat the procedure to make the the piece into light contact with it. Then stop the
opposite shoulder cut. Take out the remaining saw. Look at the stock to make sure the cut will be
waste between the shoulder cuts by making as many on the waste side of the line. Adjust the fence if
recuts as necessary. necessary.

Grooved Joints When the fence position is exact, make the cut.
Reverse the piece and proceed to set and test as
A groove is a three-sided recess running with before for the cut on the opposite side of the
the grain. A similar recess running across the grain groove. Make as many cuts as necessary to remove
is a dado. A groove or dado that does not extend the waste stock between the side kerfs.
all the way across the piece is a stopped groove or
a stopped dado. A stopped dado is also known as Grooving with the dado head is the same as
a gain (refer to fig. 3-15). dadoing, with one exception. The dado head builds
up to take out all or most of the waste in a single
A two-sided recess running along an edge is a cut. The two outside cutters alone will cut a groove
rabbet (refer to fig. 3-16). Dadoes, gains, and 1/4 inch wide. Inside cutters vary in thickness from
rabbets are not actually grooves, but the joints are 1/16 to 1/4 inch.
called grooved joints.
The circular saw can cut a stopped groove or
Grooves on edges and grooves on faces of stopped dado. You can use either a saw blade or a
narrow stock can be cut by hand with the plow dado head as follows: Clamp a stop block to the
plane. The matching plane will cut a groove on the rear of the table if the groove or dado stops at only
edge of one piece. It also cuts a tongue to match it one end. (This will stop the piece from feeding
on the edge of another. You can cut a dado by when the saw has reached the place where the
hand with the backsaw and chisel. Use the same groove or dado is supposed to stop.) If the groove
method used to cut a cross half-lap joint by hand. or dado stops at both ends, clamp a stop block to
Saw rabbets on short ends or edges by hand with the rear of the table and a starting block to the
the backsaw. front. Place the starting block so the saw will
contact the place where the groove is supposed to
Cut a long rabbet by hand with the start when the infeed end of the piece is against the
rabbet-and-fillister plane by using the following block. Start the cut by holding the piece above the
procedure: First, be sure that the side of the plane saw. Place the infeed end against the starting block
iron is exactly in line with the machined side of the and the edge against the fence. Lower the piece
plane. Then, set the width and depth gauges to the gently onto the saw blade. When the piece contacts
desired width and depth of the rabbet. the tabletop, feed it through to the stop block.

NOTE: Be sure to measure the depth from the When you are cutting a rabbet, the cut into the
edge of the plane iron, not from the sole of the face of the piece is the shoulder cut. The cut into
plane. If you measure from the sole of the plane, the edge or end is the cheek cut. Make the
the rabbet will be too deep by the amount that the shoulder cut first. Set the saw to extend above the
edge of the iron extends below the sole of the plane. table a distance equal to the desired depth of the
shoulder. Set the fence a distance away from the
Next, clamp the piece in the vise. Hold the saw equal to the desired depth of the cheek. Be
plane perpendicular, press the width gauge against sure to measure this distance from a sawtooth set to
the face of the board, and plane down with even, the left of, or away from, the ripping fence. If you
careful strokes. Continue until the depth gauge measure it from a tooth set to the right of, or
prevents any further planing. toward, the fence, the cheek will be too deep.

Cut a groove or dado on the circular saw as Place the face of the piece that was down for
follows: Lay out the groove on the end of the the shoulder cut against the fence and make the
wood. For a dado, lay out the edge. Set the saw to cheek cut. Make the cheek cut with the saw at the
the depth of the groove above the table. Set the same height as for the shoulder cut if the depth of
fence so the saw will cause the first cut to run on the shoulder and the depth of the cheek are the

same. Change the height of the saw if the depth of bare-faced tongue. The dado and rabbet joint (fig.
the cheek is different. 3-25) is another joint often used in making boxes,
drawers, and cabinets.
By using the dado head, you can cut most
rabbets in a single cut. First, build up a dado head The housed lock-joint (fig. 3-26) is a type of
equal in thickness to the desired width of the cheek. dado and rabbet joint. Note that the rabbeted piece
Next, set the head to protrude above the table a is reversed. The dadoed piece extends beyond the
distance equal to the desired depth of the shoulder. rabbeted piece. This joint is used extensively in the
Clamp a l-inch board to the fence to serve as a pattern shop for manufacturing special wooden
guide for the piece. Set the fence so the edge of foundry flasks. The dadoed piece extends to form
the board barely contacts the right side of the dado handles for the flask.
head. Set the piece against the miter gauge that is
set at 90° to the saw blade. Now hold the edge or Dovetail Joints
end to be rabbeted against the l-inch board and
make the cut. The dovetail joint (refer to fig. 3-17) is the
strongest of all the woodworking joints. However,
On jointers, a rabbeting strip on the outboard its construction requires a lot of work; therefore,
edge of the outfeed table depresses for rabbeting. you will use dovetail joints only when working on
The strip is outboard of the end of the cutterhead. finer grades of furniture and cabinet work.
To rabbet on a jointer, you depress the infeed table
and the rabbeting strip the depth of the rabbet A joint containing only a single pin is a single
below the outfeed table. Set the fence the width of dovetail joint. A joint containing two or more pins
the rabbet away from the outboard end of the is a multiple dovetail joint. A joint in which the
cutterhead. The unrabbeted part feeds onto the pins pass all the way through the tail member is a
rabbeting strip when the piece feeds through. through dovetail joint. A joint in which they pass
only part way through is a blind dovetail.
Various combinations of the grooved joints are
used in woodworking. The well-known The simplest dovetail joints is the half-lap
tongue-and-groove joint is actually a combination of dovetail joint (fig. 3-27). This joint is first laid out
the groove and the rabbet. The tongued member is and cut like an ordinary end half lap. The end of
simply a member rabbeted on both faces. In some the lapping member is laid out for shaping into a
types of panel work, the tongue is made by dove tail as follows:
rabbeting only one face. A tongue of this kind is a
Set the T-bevel to 10°. This is the correct
angle between the vertical axis and the sides of a
dovetail pin or tail. You can set the bevel with a
protractor or with the protractor head on the

Figure 3-25.—Dado and rabbet joint. Figure 3-26.—Housed lock-joint.

Figure 3-27.—Dovetail half-lap joint. Figure 3-29.—Making a half-dovetail joint.

combination square. If you don’t have either of

these, use the method shown in figure 3-28. occupy, and score the outline of the recess. Then
saw and chisel out the recess. Remember to saw on
Select a board with a straight edge, square a the waste side of all lines.
line across it, and lay off six equal lengths on the
line as shown. From the sixth mark, lay off one To make a multiple-dovetail joint, you lay out
length perpendicular to the right. A line drawn the end of the tail member as shown in figure 3-30.
from this point to the starting point of the first line The strongest type of dovetail joint is one in which
drawn will form a lo-degree angle with that line. the pins and tails are the same size. For ease in
cutting, the pins are usually somewhat smaller than
Lay off this angle from the end corners of the tails (as shown). To make a multiple-dovetail
the lapping member to the shoulder line (fig. 3-29). joint, you first determine the number of pins and
Saw out the waste as shown. The lapping member the size you want to make each pin. Then, lay off
now has a dovetail on it. Place this dovetail over a half-pin from each edge of the member. Next,
the other member, in the position it is supposed to locate the center lines of the other pins at equal
intervals across the end of the piece. Then, you lay

Figure 3-28.—Laying off a 10-degree angle for a dovetail Figure 3-30.—Laying out pin member for through
joint. multiple-dovetail joint.

Box Corner and Miter Joints

The box corner joint is the same as a multiple

dovetail with one exception—the 10-degree angle
(refer to fig. 3-18). A miter joint (refer to fig. 3-19)
is made by mitering the ends or edges of the
members that are to be joined. The angle of the
miter cut is one-half of the angle formed by the
joined members. In rectangular frames, door
casings, boxes, and the like, adjacent members form
Figure 3-31.—Chiseling out waste in a through a 90-degree angle. The correct angle for mitering is
multiple-dovetail joint. 45°. For members that will form an equal-sided
figure with other than four sides (such as an octagon
off the outlines of the pins at 10° to the center lines. or a pentagon), you need to calculate the correct
Determine the depth of the shoulder line by the mitering angle. Do this by dividing the number of
thickness of the tail member. sides the figure will have into 180, as shown in
figure 3-33.
You cut out the pins by sawing on the waste
sides of the lines and then chisel out the waste. You can miter members in a wooden or metal
You should chisel halfway through from one side, as miter box or on the circular saw by setting the miter
shown in figure 3-31. Then turn the member over gauge to the desired angle. You can edge miter
and chisel through from the other side. members to any angle on the circular saw by tilting
the saw.
When you have finished cutting out the pins, lay
the tail member flat. Set the ends of the pins in Abutting surfaces of end-mitered members do
exactly the position they are to occupy (fig. 3-32). not hold well when merely glued. You need to
Score the outlines of the pins, which will, of course, reinforce them. A good reinforcement for a joint
also be the outlines of the tails. Square lines across between end-mitered members is the slip feather.
the end of the tail member. Saw and chisel out the This joint is a thin piece of wood or veneer glued
waste between the tails. into a kerf cut in the thickness dimension of the

Figure 3-32.—Marking the tail member.

line left by the 45-degree miter cut. The ends of the
abutting members will then match the face of the
other member as shown in view D.

Mortise-and-Tenon Joints

The mortise-and-tenon joint is mostly used in

furniture and cabinet work. In the blind
mortise-and-tenon joint (refer to fig. 3-21), the
tenon does not penetrate all the way through the
mortised member. When the tenon penetrates all
the way through, it is a through mortise-and-tenon
joint. Besides the ordinary stub joint (fig. 3-37, view
A), there are haunched joints (view B) and
table-haunched joints (view C). Haunching and
table-haunching increase the strength and rigidity of
the joint.


lay out an ordinary stub mortise-and-tenon joint
using the following steps:

1. Mark the faces of the members plainly.

2. Lay off the desired length of the tenon.

3. Square the shoulder line all the way around.

Figure 3-33.—Mitering angles.
4. Then, lay off the total width of the tenon
member on the mortise member, as shown in figure
joint. (See fig. 3-34 for a simple jig to use when 3-38.
making the kerf cut.) Saw about halfway through
from the outer to the inner corner. Apply glue to 5. Determine the thickness of the tenon. It is
both sides of the slip feather, and push the slip usually between one-third and one-half the thickness
feather into the kerf (fig. 3-35). Clamp it tight and of the mortise member.
allow the glue to dry. After it has dried, remove the
clamp and chisel off the protruding portion of the 6. Use a marking gauge to mark two lines (fig.
slip feather. 3-38). If the faces of the members are to be flush,
use the same gauge setting to score a double line on
Coping Joints the mortise member. Remember to gauge from the
face of the member. If the face of the tenon
Inside corner joints between molding trim member is to be set back from the face of the
members are usually made by placing the end of mortise member, you should increase the mortising
one member against the face of the other. Figure gauge setting by the amount of the setback.
3-36 shows the method of shaping the end of the
abutting member to fit the face of the other 7. Last, lay off from the end of the mortise
members. First, saw the end of the abutting member and from the matching edge of the tenon
member square. Do this as you would an ordinary member. Lay off by the amount of end stock that
butt joint between ordinary flat-faced members. is to remain above the mortise.
Then, miter the end to 45°, as shown by views A
and B of figure 3-36. Set the coping saw at the top NOTE: You wouldn’t need this last step of the
of the line of the miter cut. Hold the saw at 90° to layout for a slip-tenon joint, like the one shown in
the lengthwise axis of the piece. Saw off the figure 3-21.
segment as shown in view C. Closely follow the face

Figure 3-34.—Kerf jig for mitered joints.

CUTTING MORTISE-AND-TENON joint, use a depth gauge. Use of the depth gauge
JOINTS.—You can cut tenons by hand with the prevents the drill from boring below the correct
backsaw by using the same method described for depth of the mortise.
cutting corner and end half-lap joints. You can cut
mortises by boring a series of holes slightly smaller Look at figures 3-39 and 3-40 as you read the
than the width of the mortise. Then, you chisel out following steps on using a circular saw to cut tenons.
the remaining waste. For a blind mortise-and-tenon

Figure 3-36.—Making a coping joint.

4. Set the saw the depth of the cheek above the


5. Set the fence the width of the shoulder away

from the saw. Then make the cheek cuts, as shown
in figure 3-40. To steady the stock against the
fence, use a feather board like the one shown
clamped to the table. To maintain the stock
Figure 3-35.—Slip feather reinforcement. upright, use a push board, like the one shown in
figure 3-40.
1. Make the shoulder cuts first.
You can also use a dado head to cut tenons.
2. Set the saw the depth of the shoulder above Use the same method described before for cutting
the table. end half-lap joints.

3. Set the rip fence the length of the tenon A hollow-chisel mortising machine cuts mortises
away from the saw. Remember to measure from a mechanically. The cutting mechanism on this
sawtooth set to the left. Make the shoulder cuts, as machine consists of a boring bit encased in a square
shown in figure 3-39. hollow steel chisel. As the mechanism presses into

Figure 3-37.—Mortise-and-tenon joints. A. Stub. B. Haunched. C. Table-haunched.

Figure 3-40.—Using a feather board and push board to

Figure 3-38.—Layout of a stub mortise-and-tenon joint. steady stock when cutting a tenon cheek.

the wood, the bit takes out most of the waste. The
chisel pares the sides of the mortise square. Chisels
come in various sizes with bits to match.

Fasten mortise-and-tenon joints with glue and

additional fasteners as required. One or more wood
or metal dowels may be driven through the joint to
give strength to the joint.


Plywood panels are installed in frames to make

parts of doors, partitions, bulkheads, and many
other items. The panels can be installed by several
Figure 3-39.—Gutting a square-shouldered tenon. methods. Four commonly used methods are shown
in figure 3-41. Notice in figure 3-41, views A and B,

Figure 3-43.—Comer butt joint for table legs.

Figure 3-42 shows the layout and design for

Figure 3-41.—Panel construction.
mortise-and-tenon joints. Mortise-and-tenon joints
join the table rails to the legs (fig. 3-43) and secure
how a groove and rabbet set the panel into the rails the stretcher to the lower end rails. An alternate
and stiles. Join the rails and stiles by using dowels, method of securing the legs to the rails is by corner
miter joints, half-lap joints, or mortise-and-tenon plates and lag screws. Using this method, the legs
joints. tighten easily when they become loose. They also
remove easily for storage or moving.
Standard methods of making a table are shown
in figures 3-42 through 3-46. Make desks in much Make drawers for tables and desks by the
the same manner but with the addition of panels method shown in figure 3-44. You will find it easier
and more drawers. to make drawers by this method than by making
them with dovetail joints. However, dovetail joints
are better and should be used on jobs made of fine
cabinet woods. Use blind dovetails for the front
corners of drawers made for such furniture.

Figure 3-42.—Mortise-tenon layout and design. Figure 3-44.—Simple drawer construction.

powder mixed with another solution. It is a
water-resistant glue that works well on hardwoods.
It is a cold-working glue that sets within 24 hours at
room temperature (70°F). Urea resin glues set and
harden by the condensation of the resin.

Vinyl resin glue is a synthetic thermoplastic

white liquid. It requires no mixing or heating
before use. This glue comes ready to use and can
be applied at temperatures above 50°F. The initial
setting of the glue takes less than 30 minutes. A
strong bond will occur in less than 1 hour for
ordinary work. In addition, this glue is compounded
to reduce wear on cutting tools. It also has a glue
line that is practically colorless. For general
construction, vinyl resin glue has replaced all glues
Figure 3-45.—Standard table construction. that require heating, cooking, or mixing.

Tabletops usually fasten to the upper rails (fig. Pointers on Using Glue
3-45) by one of the six standard methods shown in
figure 3-46. You will probably use the cleat more Prepare and use each type of glue in a specific
than any of the others. Fasten the cleat screws to manner. Instructions and safety precautions are
the rail first so it is about 1/16 inch below flush. always given on the label of the container, or on the
Then, the screws going into the top will pull the top MSDS for the glue. You should study these
down tight and snug. carefully before trying to use any glue. Certain
rules should be followed in the application of all
The wood should be room temperature (70°F).
Many kinds of fasteners hold wood together. If the wood is cold, the glue next to the wood chills
These include glue, nails, screws, bolts, and special and sets before it has penetrated the pores of the
fasteners. joint. If the wood is hot, the water in the wood will
expel, causing the joint to warp. Glues give best
TYPES OF GLUE results when the wood is at room temperature.

The two most commonly used glues in today’s Squeeze or rub excess glue out of a joint before
pattern shop are urea resin glue and vinyl resin applying pressure. Always apply pressure as quickly
(white) glue. as possible after spreading the glue. This prevents
the glue from setting before the excess can be
Urea resin glue is a synthetic compound that squeezed out. The greater the pressure applied, the
comes either in a powder mixed with water or a stronger the joint will be.

NOTE: Do not apply so much pressure that the

wood crushes.

If possible, the pressure should be at least 100

psi. Squeezing out too much glue is impossible.
Clamps alone produce this pressure, but they do not
distribute the pressure evenly. To get a joint with
maximum strength, you should use plates between
the clamps and the wood.
Figure 3-46.—Securing rails to tabletops.

Methods of Applying Glue After proper arrangement, use some system of
marking the pieces of stock. This is so they will not
When you need thicker or wider material but it be disarranged during the gluing-up process. Apply
is not available, you will have to glue several pieces a good coat of glue to the surface of the piece of
of material together. The two principal methods stock lying face up. Place one of the other pieces of
used for gluing wood stock are face-to-face gluing stock face-to-face with the glued surface. Rub back
and edge-to-edge gluing. and forth or in a circular motion. Exert as much
down pressure as possible. This spreads the glue
In face-to-face gluing, first determine the sizes evenly throughout the joint and helps prevent air
of stock needed. Then, you should decide what bubbles. In addition, a certain amount of glue is
available stock can be glued up to produce the driven into the pores of the wood. The glued
required size. Remove enough lumber from the surfaces are pulled closer together. Repeat the
rack to do the job. Saw the lumber to the required preceding gluing operations until all pieces are
lengths. Dress one face and one edge of each piece assembled
of material on the jointer. Dress the material to the
proper thickness in the planer. Rip the pieces to Position clamps and tighten glued-up stock as
the proper width in the circular saw. Adjust the shown in figure 3-47. Place clamp A in a position
hand clamps to an approximate jaw opening. Lay so that when the clamps are all in place, the space
the stock on the bench and fit each clamp loosely between them will be somewhat equal throughout
over the stock. Then place them in a spot where the length of the material. Keep lower clamp
they can be easily reached. spindle M at least 1/2 inch above the surface of the
material. Tighten up on spindle M and release
Place the stock in the desired gluing position. spindle N until a fair amount of pressure is on that
Alternate in relation to the growth rings. The part of the jaws near M. Next, turn spindles M and
warpage of each piece offsets the warpage of the N until the entire face of jaw F is exerting an even
one next to it if this arrangement is followed. Also, pressure on the face of the material. Use enough
arrange the pieces so the grain of their respective force to squeeze excess glue from the joints of the
surfaces runs in the same direction. Otherwise, glued-up stock and draw all surfaces tightly together.
difficulties may arise later when dressing the job to
proper thickness. Planing with the grain on one Adjust and tighten clamp B just like clamp A.
part of the surface may prove to be the wrong As each clamp is added, the glue is forced along, as
direction for an adjacent area. well as out of, the joint. If the ends are clamped
first, a large amount of glue is trapped in the

Figure 3-47.—Face-to-face gluing.

middle. This is especially true when you are gluing gluing. Set the clamp jaw openings to suit the width
up wide pieces of material. Next, turn the stock of the assembled pieces of stock. Allow for blocks
completely over on a table or bench so it rests on on the edges of the material to prevent marring.
the ends of clamps A and B. Place clamps C and Make two jig blocks for each of the bottom clamps
D, and adjust the same as clamps A and B. (fig. 3-48) to hold the clamps upright during the
gluing operations. Again, note the arrangement of
NOTE: Clamping the midsection of the material pieces so the annual ring growth will tend to offset
first will give the excess glue squeezed out of the warpage. Be sure the direction of the grain is the
joint more outlets. same in all the pieces to be glued.

Now examine the job carefully to see that all the Place glue on the edges of the boards you are
clamps are properly set and that all the glued joints joining. Rub the stock together to spread the glue
have been properly drawn up. Remove the job to a evenly and force out any air bubbles. If the ends of
convenient spot where it will be out of the way until the joints come apart before tightening the clamps,
needed. If the job stays on the bench, excess glue use pinch dogs to hold the boards together
squeezed from the joint will stick to the bench top. temporarily. Put the middle clamps in place with
You should clean all waste glue from the top of the the blocks in front of the jaws. Adjust and tighten
bench. them. Then adjust and tighten the clamps on the
ends, squeezing out all excess glue.
When the glue has jelled, remove it with a glue
scraper. Then wipe the surface with a piece of cloth Inspect the clamps every few hours to make sure
dipped in hot water. If it is a rush job, the clamps the stock is not warping. If any of the edges pull
may be removed in 4 hours. However, the joints apart before the glue has dried, adjust the clamps to
cannot be guaranteed to hold if the clamps are apply equal tension throughout.
removed too soon. Best results will result from
clamps left on for 12 hours. You should plan NAILS, BRADS, DOWELS, AND
construction of the job to provide time for good CORRUGATED FASTENERS
results in gluing operations.
Fastening materials such as nails, brads, dowels,
The edge-to-edge method of gluing up stock has and corrugated fasteners work in combination with
two purposes. It is used most often to get material glue in pattern construction. Many of the materials
that will be thin in comparison with its width. Use used in the HT rating are the same as those found
this method to glue up material that has to be wider in other woodworking trades. Nails provide the
than any on hand. least holding power, screws provide better, and bolts
provide the best holding power of all. Wood screws
In edge-to-edge gluing, select, dress, and rip the may be combined with glue and paper in parted
material the same way as you did for face-to-face pattern turning. Use dowels for the alignment of

Figure 3-48.—Edge-to-edge gluing.

parted patterns and of loose pattern parts. A size, shape of head, type of point, and finish. Nail
description of these fasteners is given in the sizes are described by the term penny. The penny
following paragraphs. sets the length of the nail (one penny, two penny,
and so on) and is the same for all types. The
Nails and Brads approximate number of nails per pound varies with
the type and size. The wire gauge number varies
There are many types of nails, which are with type. Figure 3-49 provides the information
classified according to use and form. They vary in related to the term penny for each nail type

Figure 3-49.—Types of nails and nail sizes.

referenced in this section. The d next to the The finish nail (fig. 3-50, view C) is made from
numbers in the size column is the accepted finer wire than either the common wire or box nail.
abbreviation of the word penny, as used in nail Its length per penny size is the same. The finish
sizing. It reads two penny, three penny, and so on. nail has a small head that may be set below the
surface of the wood. The small hole that remains
A few rules should be followed when you use may be puttied or waxed over. You should use
nails. For maximum holding power, a nail should finish nails where appearance is important.
be at least three times as long as the thickness of
wood it is to hold. Two-thirds of the length of the The duplex nail (fig. 3-50, view D) is a
nail is driven into the second piece for proper temporary fastener so it has two heads. The lower
anchorage. One-third provides the necessary head, or shoulder, is driven securely home to give
anchorage of the piece being fastened. Nails should maximum holding power. The upper head projects
be driven at a slight angle toward each other. Place above the surface of the wood to make it easy to
them carefully to provide the greatest holding remove.
power. Nails driven with the grain do not hold as
well as nails driven across the grain. A few nails of The wire gauge brad (fig. 3-50, view E) comes in
proper type and size, properly placed and driven, several gauges for the same length of brad. It
will hold better than many nails poorly placed. ranges in length from 3/8 inch to 6 inches. It is the
Nails are the cheapest and easiest fasteners to use. most suitable brad for pattern work. Remember
that for brads, the higher the gauge number, the
The common wire nail (fig. 3-50, view A) has a smaller the body diameter. Length and wire gauge
flat head. It ranges in size from 2d (1 inch long) to identify its size. For example, 1–12 means 1 inch
60d (6 inches long). The box nail (fig. 3-50, view B) long and made of 12-gauge wire (0.105 inch), while
has the same length per penny size as the common 1 1/2—15 means 1 1/2 inches long and made of
wire nail. It has a lighter head and smaller 15-gauge wire (0.072 inch).
diameter. In structural carpentry where appearance
is not important, you should use both the common Wood Screws
wire and box nail.
Several factors dictate the use of wood screws
rather than nails and may include the type of
material being fastened and the holding power
requirements. Other factors could be the finished
appearance desired and limits to the number of
fasteners used. Using screws rather than nails is
more expensive in time and money, but their use is
often necessary to meet specifications.

The main advantages of screws are they provide

more holding power and tighten easily to draw the
items fastened securely together. They are also
neater in appearance if properly driven and may be
withdrawn without damaging the material. The
common wood screw is made from unhardened
steel, stainless steel, aluminum, or brass.
Unhardened steel or brass screws are normally used
in the pattern shop. Wood screws are threaded
from a gimlet point for about two-thirds the length
of the screw. They have a slotted or Phillips head
designed to be driven by a screwdriver.

Wood screws (fig. 3-51) are classified according

Figure 3-50.—Nails and brads. to head style. The most common types are flat
head, oval head, and round head, both in slotted
and Phillips heads.

Figure 3-51.—Types of wood screws and nomenclature.

To prepare wood for receiving the screws, you

bore a pilot hole the diameter of the screw in the
piece of wood to be fastened (fig. 3-52). Then bore
a smaller starter hole in the piece of wood that is to
act as anchor to hold the threads of the screw. Drill
the starter hole with a smaller diameter than the
screw threads. Go to a depth one-half or two-thirds
the length of the threads to be anchored. The
purpose of this careful preparation is to assure
accuracy in the placement of the screws. It also
reduces the chance of splitting the wood and Figure 3-52.—Sinking a screw properly.
reduces the time and effort required to drive the
screws. The proper name for lag screws (fig. 3-51) is
lag-bolt wood screw. Building construction often
Properly set slotted and Phillips flat-head and requires you to use these screws. Lag-bolt wood
oval-head screws are countersunk enough to permit screws are longer and much heavier than the
covering the head. Round-head screws are driven common wood screw and have coarser threads. The
so the head is firmly flush with the surface of the threads extend from a cone or gimlet point slightly
wood. The slot of the round-head screw is parallel more than half the length of the screw.
to the grain of the wood. Square-head and hexagon-head lag screws are
always externally driven, usually by a wrench. They
Wood screws come in sizes that vary from 1/3 are used when ordinary wood screws would be too
inch to 6 inches. Screws up to 1 inch in length short or too light.
increase by eighths. Screws from 1 to 3 inches
increase by quarters. Screws from 3 to 6 inches Dowels
increase by half inches. Screws also vary in shaft
size. Proper nomenclature of a screw is shown in HTs use dowels to assemble and hold loose
figure 3-51. This includes the type, material, finish, parts of a pattern in proper relation to each other
length, and screw size number. The screw size while ramming up the pattern. Dowels often
number shows the wire gauge of the body, drill, or reinforce glued joints and delicate parts of a job.
bit size for the body hole. It also shows drill or bit Wood dowels are round wooden pins made from
size for the starter hole. Tables 3-3 and 3-4 provide straight-grained maple or birch. The diameters
size, length, gauge, and applicable drill and auger bit commonly used in the shop range from 1/8 to 1
sizes for screws. inch, in 1/8-inch increments.

Table 3-3.—Screw Sizes and Dimensions

Metal dowels (usually brass) are sometimes Metal dowels (fig. 3-53) are self-centering. The
used. They do not damage easily, and they do not lower portion of the threaded end locates its own
absorb moisture from the molding sand. center in the bored hole. It also holds the dowel to

Table 3-4.—Drill and Auger Bit Sizes for Wood Screws

Corrugated Fasteners

Corrugated fasteners are metal strips bent into

many W shapes. These fasteners are used to butt
two pieces of wood together. One- half the
corrugated fastener goes on the first piece, the other
half goes on the second. They are driven into the
wood like a nail; but unlike a nail, they are not
intended to be removed. The wood is destroyed if
you try to remove a corrugated fastener. The most
common application for corrugated fasteners is for
holding together picture frames. The fastener is
occasionally placed on the back side of the wood,
but normally it is used like a slip feather.


The sequence of steps you should follow to

complete a project is discussed in the following
sections. A brief list of the steps follows. Sand the
Figure 3-53.—Dowels and dowel keys. pattern to remove tool marks and ridges before it
receives its final protective coating. Add fillets and
its center as the threads cut their way into the wood. include identification markings. Set rapping and
The thread depth keeps the dowel tight. The male lifting plates into the pattern.
and female parts fit within 0.001 inch.
You can easily insert or remove the metal dowel
from the pattern by using a dowel key (fig. 3-53). You need to use the correct sandpaper for the
Table 3-5 lists the dowel number size, the diameter sanding job on which you are working.
of the dowel pin, and the recommended drill
size. Sandpaper is graded by the coarseness or
fineness of the abrasive particles used on the paper.
Table 3-5.—Drill Sizes for Metal Dowels The grade is marked by a number on the back of
Dowel No. Dowel Diameter Drill Size the sandpaper. Table 3-6 shows sandpaper sizes and
Size (inches) their suggested uses. Sandpaper usually comes in
9-inch by 11-inch sheets. For machine sanders, it
0 7/64 1/8 comes either in rolls or cut to fit the machine.
1 11/64 3/16 Proper storage of sandpaper is important.
2 3/16 Never store it in an area that is too damp or too
dry. Moisture loosens the abrasive material, while
3 7/32 5/16 excessive dryness makes the paper too brittle.
5 13/16 9/16
Hand and lathe sanding are the two methods of
6 17/32 3/4 finish sanding that you will routinely use. When you
first started your pattern, you rough sanded pattern
7 13/16 1 parts on power sanders made to remove large
amounts of wood quickly. Finish sanding requires
the careful removal of small amounts of wood in
selected spots.

Table 3-6.—Abrasive Recommendations


Paints and Cabinet Wet paper
garnishes paper { 2 1/2- 1 1/2 “A” wight { 240-400
(opencoat (silicon
garnet) carbide)
Hard tough Metal Metal Finishing
minerals and working working PaPer
compositions cloth cloth { 80-120 (aluminum { 150-320
(aluminum (aluminum oxide)
oxide) oxide)
Hard brittle Cabinet Finishing Wet paper
mineral and paper { 50-80 Paper { 100-180 "A" weight { 220-320
compositions (aluminum (aluminum (silicon
oxide) oxide) carbide)
Hard metals Metal Metal Metal
working working working 150-320
cloth { 40-60 cloth { 80-120 cloth in oil or crocus
(aluminum (aluminum (aluminum
oxide) oxide) oxide)
Soft metals Metal Cabinet Wet paper
working Paper "A" weight
cloth { 36-60 (aluminum { 80-120 (silicon { 150-320
(aluminum oxide) carbide)
Hard wood Cabinet Cabinet Finishing
Hard paper paper PaPer
compositions (aluminum { 36-50 (aluminum { 60-100 (aluminum { 120-180
Wallboards, oxide) oxide) oxide)
Plastics Cabinet Wet paper Wet paper
paper { 60-100 “C” wight { 120-220 “A” wight { 240-600
(aluminum (silicon (silicon
oxide) carbide) carbide)
Soft wood Cabinet Cabinet Finishing
Soft Paper { 2-1 Paper { 1/2-2/0 Paper { 3/0-5/0
wallboard (garnet) (garnet) (garnet)

HAND SANDING Redwood and some pines have a marked

difference in hardness between the soft and hard
Normally, you sand the finished surfaces of portions of their growth rings. The abrasive on the
cabinet and jointer work with the grain. Sanding sandpaper removes the softer portion of the grain
with the grain avoids scratches that might spoil the quite rapidly when sanding is done with the grain on
natural appearance of the wood grain. this type of wood. The harder grain portions offer

more resistance to the abrasive. Instead, they tear method of sanding is for surfaces for which a
the abrasive from the paper. This loose material, in sanding block will not work. Avoid sanding too long
turn, wears the softer portions of the wood. This in one spot. This could change the dimensions of a
produces a washboard surface that is not acceptable job.
for a pattern. When the same woods are sanded
across the grain, the abrasive material rapidly cuts After you have finished sanding with a folded
tiny chips out of the hard fiber walls. The entire sandpaper, finish sanding by tearing off a narrow
abrasive face of the sandpaper dulls evenly. It strip of sandpaper. Use it shoeshine fashion. Use
cannot remove the soft grain portion any faster than a fine grade of sandpaper when you are finishing
the reduction of the hard fibers will permit. small jobs. Use coarser grades on larger work.

For sanding flat surfaces, you should select a The principal purpose of sanding a finished or
sheet of sandpaper that is just coarse enough to lacquered surface is to remove any roughness that
dress the surface free of tool marks without cutting may be present without removing the finish. The
the surface too rapidly. Then, tear or cut a sheet of pressure exerted on the sandpaper should never be
sandpaper into four equal parts since it is too large greater than that necessary to get satisfactory
for the average-size job. results. Also, use as fine a grade of sandpaper as
the job will permit.
Make a sandpaper block and fold one of the
pieces of sandpaper around it. Sand the surface by Look at the finished surface to see if it is fully
moving the block back and forth across the grain dry before trying to sand it. Select a sheet of
with long strokes. Move along the surface from one sandpaper of proper grade for the job to be done.
end of the material to the other. Do not sand in Sand the surface very lightly at first. Use strokes
one spot. Try to remove an equal amount from all that are as long as possible. Do no more sanding
parts of the surface during each sanding motion. than is necessary to produce a smooth surface.
Brush the surface free of wood dust and loose Also, examine the sandpaper often to see if any part
abrasives. Examine the surface for tool marks. If has become gummed with finish material. If it has,
they are not all removed, repeat these sanding do not use that part of the sandpaper any longer.
operations until you get the desired results. It will scratch the surface of the job.
Complete sanding of the surface with a fine grade of
sandpaper, then brush the surface clean. LATHE SANDING

When sanding straight narrow edges, sand with Sanding work in a lathe should be done very
the grain of the wood. Most people use a rocking carefully because the dimensions of the job may
motion with a sanding block when cross-grained alter. Carefully turn the job to a smooth finish so
sanding on narrow edges. The rocking motion only minor sanding is necessary to finish the surface.
produces a rounded surface. Use a fine grade of sandpaper (120 or 150) on the
average-size job. Always remove the tool rest from
When sanding concave surfaces, use a the lathe before sanding a job.
round-faced block. Do as much cross-grained
sanding as you can. Start each sanding stroke at the
top edge of the concave surface and push toward
the bottom. Do not sand on the back stroke. You
may pass over the edge and knock the corner over.
Clean the surface often during sanding and look for
tool marks. Finish the surface with a fine grade of

In sanding irregular surfaces, the usual

procedure is to tear the sandpaper sheet into four
equal parts. Fold each part to get three separate
surfaces. As one surface of the paper becomes dull, Figure 3-54.—Holding folded sandpaper.
turn the paper over until the entire piece has been
used. Hold the paper as shown in figure 3-54. This

Figure 3-57.—Sanding a concave faceplate pattern.

Figure 3-55.—Sanding a lathe job.

proper angle so all angles, edges, or shoulders keep
If the job is small, use a half sheet. For a large their designed shapes (fig. 3-56).
job, use the whole sheet folded twice. Apply the
sandpaper lightly (fig. 3-55), moving it along the When sanding a concave faceplate pattern, you
surface of the job. Do not sand in one spot. When should start by tearing a suitable piece from a sheet
sanding the ends of the job, use a narrow strip of of sandpaper. Fold it over twice. Bend the paper
sandpaper. Fold the sandpaper between your a few times to make it pliable. Then, sand the job
fingers in the shape of the sanding surface. Then as shown in figure 3-57. Do not knock off the sharp
hold it lightly against the stock. Rotate it at the corners on the face of the bend.

Machine sanders are useful for smoothing stock

and for putting draft on the sides of patterns. Be
careful when operating a machine sander so you will
not cut off too much stock and ruin your work.


In this chapter, you have learned about the

different types of wood, wood joints, cuts, and
fasteners that HTs use in their jobs. But remember
when tasked with a job, no matter how small, you
should take the time to pick the right material for
the job. A little extra time taken before you begin
may save a lot of time later.
Figure 3-56.—Sanding at an angle.




Upon completion of this chapter; you will be able to do the following:

Describe the techniques and materials used to repair small craft.
Describe the applications of plastic boats and the procedures used to con-
struct and repair plastic boats.
Recognize the fundamental principles of metal boat repairs and discuss the
safety equipment and procedures used.
Describe the preliminary preparations to be made before laying deck cover-
Describe the application and installation procedures of tiles and nonskid

INTRODUCTION boats carried aboard ship. Since inflatable boats are

covered in Basic Military Requirements, NAVED-
As a Hull Maintenance Technician aboard ship TRA 12043, they will not be discussed in this text.
and IMAs, you must be familiar with the procedures
used in making repairs to small boats, because you will You will be able to make repairs more intelligently
be called upon to make emergency and permanent if you understand the general principles of boat
repairs on wooden, metal, and plastic boats. Each boat construction. This information will help you learn the
repair job presents a unique problem, depending on names of the parts of boats, boat fastenings, and other
the type of boat and the nature of the damage to be terms used by boat builders.
repaired. In doing any repair work, the goal is to make When the construction of a boat is authorized by
the boat as strong and seaworthy as possible. You may
NAVSEA, the boat is assigned a BOAT NUMBER.
also be required to repair or even replace deck
coverings. We will discuss the repairs of deck You will usually find the number cut on the inboard
coverings later in this chapter. Right now, let us look face of the keel, apron, or keelson.
at boat repairs. The material in this chapter consists The label plate is usually secured in a conspicuous
chiefly of examples of small boat repairs and cannot location near the steering control station. This label
be taken as step-by-step directions for repairing all contains the following information:
types of damage to all boats.
Boat repairs vary and may include repairing Length and type of boat
structural members, removing and replacing damaged
planking, caulking seams, making soft patches, and Boat registry number
making plastic repairs. Maximum capacity (number of personnel)
The types of boats in current use by the Navy
include fast patrol boats used for inshore and riverine Builder (usually a boat building contractor)
warfare, landing craft carried for amphibious use, NAVSEA plan number (used for construction)
motor whaleboats, utility boats, and motor boats.
Figures 4-1, 4-2, 4-3, 4-4, and 4-5 show some of the Date completed

Figure 4-1.—A 26-foot Mk 10 motor whaleboat.

Figure 4-3.—A flag officer’s barge.

slight amount of surface damage may be deceptive and

may cause you to overlook deeper and more serious
damage. For example, a direct blow that is heavy
enough to damage the stem of a utility boat may cause
severe damage to the stem apron, knee, keel, or
keelson; a blow that ruptures the transom planking
may break or crack a stern frame; and a broadside
bump that seems to do little damage might actually
loosen or damage an engine stringer or girder.
To determine the extent of the damage, you will
probably have to scrape the paint away from a fairly
Figure 4-2.—Utility boat being used as a personnel carrier. large area. If the stem is damaged, you should remove
the towing post and chafing plate. The towing post
may be removed by pulling the retaining pin, which is
INSPECTING BOAT DAMAGE located under the towing post partner, and lifting the
post straight upward from the step or securing plate on
The first step in repairing a boat is to make a the keel. Figure 4-6 shows a boat from which the
thorough inspection to determine the extent of the towing post, or bitt, has been removed. On some craft,
damage. It is particularly Important to determine the it may also be necessary to remove some of the
condition of the main strength members. A relatively decking to reach the stem and apron.

Figure 4-4.—A 36-foot Mk 11 LCPL.

Figure 4-5.—LCVPs hitting the beach.


Almost all of the operational Navy small craft are

now built of glass-reinforced plastic. The wooden
boats that you may have occasion to repair will be odd
types, kept for recreational or historic purposes. The
information in this section will help you make Figure 4-6.—Looking forward on a boat with the towing post
temporary repairs to these wooden boats. They may removed.
then be operated until permanent repairs can be
performed by technicians assigned to ships or shore other forms of damage are the result of fire or physical
commands with the necessary facilities and skilled forces such as collision, grounding, broaching, or other
ratings. evidences of poor seamanship.
There are three causes of damage to wooden boats. There is little a Hull Maintenance Technician can
The most difficult damage to repair is caused by rot. The do to prevent physical damage to a boat.

DECAY by probing with the point of a knife, chisel, or
screwdriver. Press the tip of the instrument against the
Preventing rot or decay requires joint efforts with wood. If the wood is sound, the point will encounter
the Boatswain’s Mates or other personnel who are increasing resistance as it penetrates deeper. In rotten
charged with painting and caulking the boat. You wood, the resistance will seem to decrease once the
should inspect boats in your charge fairly often to paint layer is penetrated. A screwdriver tip will seem
check the following causes of decay: to pop through the paint and into rotten wood.
— Parts of the boat may be too dry or too wet. Decay may also be found in association with
Strong sunlight or storage near hot machinery can dry physical damage. Weak planks and timber will be the
out the wood. Dryness causes wood to shrink and crack. first to yield to stress. When inspecting collision or
Water can then seep between planks and into cracks, similar damage, look also for signs of rot.
wetting interior areas which will not dry before rotting
has started. The microorganisms that cause wood to rot EMERGENCY REPAIRS
require a limited range of dampness to be active. Most
of these organisms are fungi, and they will develop in Emergency repairs to boat planking can be made
wood having over 30 percent moisture content. They with sheet lead, plywood, canvas, or glass-reinforced
need some air, and they will not develop in wood fully plastic. If the patch is anchored to sound wood, it can
saturated with water, from which comes the term dry last several weeks. If an emergency patch just covers
rot. Once in wood, they will be dormant if the moisture a hole and is fastened to rot-affected wood, it should
content is less than 20 percent, or if the wood is satu- be replaced as soon as possible.
rated. Fresh water causes more decay than salt water, so Most emergency repairs to frame members consist
inspect areas where rainwater or condensation may be of reinforcing damaged timbers by backing them up
trapped. Boats with closed spaces should have adequate and shoring them. Backup bracing can be temporarily
ventilators installed or hatches opened up and interiors nailed or lashed in place. Boats having serious
dried out whenever the weather permits. structural damage are not seaworthy, and temporary
— Cracks and seams are places where decay can repairs are made only to get them to a safe place where
start. Not only can dampness persist in narrow cracks, they can be repaired or surveyed.
but other agents that cause decay can get in there. Look
for cracks in boards and faulty caulking. If you find any, REPAIR PROCEDURES
notify the boatswain’s personnel to correct the problem.
The first step in repairing a damaged boat is to
— Plain iron fasteners or galvanized fittings that make a general survey of the situation. Determine as
have lost their zinc coating will favor decay in oak frame best you can the extent of the damage. Having done
members. Also, water may leak into the hull in the this, consider whether you have the facilities and
vicinity of these fasteners. materials to make a repair. If work and storage space
— Caustic chemicals, such as those used in clean- are limited, you might have to defer work on the boat
ing, should not be allowed to stand in contact with until materials can be obtained. If you have adequate
wood. They can dissolve the wood and weaken it. Acids space, it would be best to haul out the boat for a
are less destructive; but strong acids, such as those used detailed inspection and drying out before work is
in batteries, will attack wood. begun. If the boat has been sunk, the Enginemen will
want to take out the engine, transmission, and
— A common cause of decay is destructive attacks electrical equipment for drying out and overhauling.
by marine borers. This and general marine fouling are If the hull is not repairable, remove the reusable parts
prevented by proper bottom paints and occasional over- and dispose of the hull.
haul. Borers are not a problem for boats kept out of the
As soon as a boat has been hauled out, its bottom
should be cleaned. Barnacles and other marine growth
Decay, particularly rot, will not start in any place are more easily removed when they are wet. They
where it is easy to detect. It may cause cracks and smell better then too. After the bottom is cleaned, the
discoloration of paint, but since it is most likely to boat can be set up in the work area. The hull should be
occur in bilges, behind ribs or frames, or in closed dried out, the bilges cleaned, and any rotten wood cut
comers, it will be hard to see. Traditionally, it is found out so adjacent areas can dry out. When the boat has

been cleaned and dried, you should make a careful necessary. All frame member sections should be
inspection to determine the extent of damage. joined with a scarfjoint if at all possible. A scarf with
Physical damage may extend far from the a 12:1 pitch is best. A scarf with this pitch, glued with
obviously stove-in areas. A boat may have been epoxy and secured by boat nails, bolts, or rivets, will
squeezed in a collision situation, and although there is be nearly as strong as the original member. If you use
obvious damage on one side, equal stresses have been epoxy glue, you can allow some gap in the joint since
suffered on the other side. By calculating the direction epoxy has better strength in tension than regular
that forces were exerted on the hull, you can estimate marine glues. A good scarf can be made by
the points where stresses were transmitted. Look in overlapping the members to be joined and shaping
those areas for loosened fastenings or cracks in the both ends with one cut of a saw at a steep angle. Heavy
wood. timbers must be sawed and carefully planed to shape.
When a rib or strake cannot be easily reached, the scarf
If decay is present, either as the cause of failure or angle will probably have to be chiseled into it. The end
incidental to it, you must plan to remove not only the of the new section then is carefully fitted to this angle.
rotted wood, but also the wood into which the decay Since epoxy has strength in tension, rougher faces of
organisms are assumed to have spread. The rule in joints can be used than was possible with older glues.
doing this is to remove sound wood for 2 feet along
the grain from the soft wood and for 2 inches across The easiest way to lay out a replacement part is to
the grain from the soft wood. Plywood should be use the old part as a template. If the old part is too
removed for a 2-foot radius from the rotten area. If this badly damaged, you may be able to construct a
is not done, decay can spread back into the repaired template of scrap materials or lay out the new part by
area. careful measurements. Experienced boatwrights have
a number of techniques to form duplicate replacement
When you remove a damaged plank, plan to take
parts, but for emergency repairs you can probably
out a generous length. The new plank should butt to
settle for any method that will fill the hole or provide
the end of the old one between frames, using a butt
block; you should saw the ends to meet that adequate reinforcement. Plastic patch materials
requirement. If the plank is fastened with screws, permit simple, quick repairs that formerly were not
chisel away the putty or the bung plugs and remove possible.
the screws. If boat nails are used, cut off the heads with
a cold chisel. When the plank is pulled off, either pull
the nail or drive it into the frame. To remove rivets, FERROCEMENT BOATS
cut off the upset head and punch them out. (Rivets are
usually found in lap stroke hulls, which are best sent Ferrocement is a material finding increased use as
to an expert for repair.) If the plank is fastened with a low-cost material for hull construction. It is a
drifts, pry them out by leverage on the plank, or allow combination of steel-reinforced mesh and portland
the plank to break at the rib, then pull the drift or drive cement binding. The reinforcement material ranges
it flush. from several layers of chicken wire to a few layers of
specially woven steel wire. Ferrocement hulls may
To repair a sprung frame or rib where the exterior also have some structural steel or steel pipe
planking is sound, construct a sister frame and fasten reinforcement or framing.
it along the old frame. The sister frame should extend
well to either side of the damaged area. Planks may be Repairable damage to ferrocement hulls probably
refastened to the sister frame. will be in the form of punctures or structural damage
from collisions or groundings. Other failure of these
If a frame has rotted, or is badly damaged, it must
hulls will be caused by poor design, materials, or
be replaced. To replace a curved frame section, it is
workmanship. Hull failure from these causes is not
easiest and best to laminate the replacement part on a
economically repairable since the seaworthiness of the
template; or, if the exterior of the boat is sound, the
section could be built up in place. On Vee hulls, the entire craft is questionable.
lower ribs should go from keel to chine, and the side To repair punctured areas not over about 1 foot in
ribs from the chine to the sheer strake. The ends should greatest diameter, use the plastic patching kit and
be joined as were the original members. Curved rib basically the same techniques described later in this
sections can be joined to the ends of the old rib if chapter for repairing fiberglass hulls.

Damaged ferrocement can be cut away with a ma- resin can be made to cure in periods ranging from 30
sonry blade in a portable circular saw. The edges of the minutes to over 24 hours.
hole can then be scarfed with a heavy duty sander, but
not to the degree of taper possible with fiberglass. REPAIRING PLASTIC BOATS
Additional reinforcement can be added to the rear of the
patch. Epoxies bond very well to ferrocement. Although the use of plastics in naval construction
Larger damage may require some structural rein- and repair is relatively new, plastic materials and boats
forcement. Structural steel members may be repaired by have become important for naval use.
welding, and steel backing to repaired areas can be The factors in favor of the plastic boat are many; it
welded to structural members. Welding heat will de- has a monolithic structure (can be cast in one piece), it
compose some of the surrounding cement, which can be mass produced, and it can readily be maintained
should be chipped away and replaced with epoxy. and repaired. Ships are supplied with metallic pipe and
To bolt repair patches to ferrocement, use plain general-purpose repair kits. These pipes and kits are
black iron carriage and stove bolts. Galvanized hard- used for emergency repairs of battle damage to piping
ware does not stand up well in ferrocement. for water, oil, gasoline, and refrigeration lines. Materi-
als and instruction are provided not only for repairing
pipes, but also for repairing damaged glass-reinforced
PLASTIC BOATS plastic structures such as boats, floats, deck cabins, and
hull and deck coverings.
Some types of damage to plastic boats require slight
deviations from the standard repair procedures, but Repair Kits
personnel who can effectively repair a hole in the hull
should have little or no trouble with other plastic repairs. The metallic pipe and general-purpose repair kit are
repair locker equipage. The repair kits are not to be
USES AND IDENTIFICATION OF removed from the repair lockers except in the case of
PLASTICS an emergency and with the authorization from the lead-
ing HT or the damage control assistant (DCA), or when
Plastics in naval construction have become increas- the shelf life date has expired and a new kit has been
ingly important. Plastic patching has become standard placed in the locker. The shelf life of a kit is 2 years.
practice aboard most ships in the Navy. When a kit is removed from the locker because it is past
Plastics can be identified by their chemical and its shelf life, the HT shop may keep the kit for boat
physical properties. For repair purposes, the most im- repairs and training purposes. The repair kit contains
portant plastic categories are the cellulose products, the epoxy resin, hardener, and glass reinforcement in the
protein plastics, and the synthetic resins. Physically, form of mats or woven cloth. Auxiliary materials in-
plastics may be divided into two basic groups: THER- clude separating film, kraft paper, protective gloves,
MOSETTING materials and THERMOPLASTIC ma- wooden spatulas, resin spreading tools, brushes, and
terials. A thermosetting plastic has no melting point. repair instructions. Sufficient quantities of these mate-
Although a thermosetting material can flow and be rials are provided in a standard kit to replace about 400
molded, it will neither soften when heated nor return to square inches of damaged 1/4-inch laminate, and tubes
its original liquid state. A thermoplastic material, how- of paste resin are provided for repairing minor surface
ever, will soften when heated. To illustrate, let us com- imperfections.
pare these two kinds of plastics with steel and concrete. The kit supplier has preweighed and packaged the
Steel can be heated and formed, and when reheated, will resin and hardener in the proper proportions. The resin
soften; a thermoplastic material is like that. On the other cans are only slack filled to allow the hardener to be
hand, once concrete has set, it cannot be reformed; this added to the can of resin when the two are mixed.
is characteristic of a thermosetting plastic. Proper storage of plastic repair kits is important.
Polyester thermosetting resins, known as polyes- They should be stored in a cool, dry place. Temperatures
ters, are extensively used by the Navy. By adding vari- should be kept below 70°F and the relative humidity
ous activators (catalysts and accelerators) in small should be less than 50 percent. Kits should never be
quantities to the liquid polyesters, chemical reactions stored in temperatures below 32°F. Storage life of the
occur that cause the material to become rigid. This resin will vary; however, under these specified storage
process of changing from one state to another is called conditions, the resin should remain stable and usable for
curing. By varying the percentage of catalyst added, the an indefinite period of time.

Any chemicals or solvents should be handled with closely woven one. Woven fabrics are usually identified
caution. The repair of reinforced plastics is no excep- by a style number that refers to a specific cloth or a
tion. Cutting and grinding of reinforced plastic lami- certain weave, weight, and thickness. For example,
nates generates a fine dust that irritates the skin and style #1000 cloth identifies a plain weave cloth that
eyes. Inhalation of the dust should be avoided. weighs 10 ounces per square yard and is 0.013-inch
The following safety precautions should be fol- thick. Woven fabrics are coated with a finish to improve
lowed: the bond between the glass and the resin. The third type
of glass reinforcement, which is gaining popularity
1. Wear protective gloves, goggles, and respirators
because it is cheaper than cloth and builds up the thick-
provided with the kit. If available, apply a protective
ness of a laminate faster, is called woven roving. This
hand cream to all exposed skin areas.
type of reinforcement resembles a hand-woven pot-
2. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, or clothing. If holder both in weave and appearance. A commonly
these materials contact the skin or eyes, immediately used type of roving is about 0.040-inch thick and weighs
flush them with water for 15 minutes. If the eyes are 24 ounces per square yard. Of the three types of rein-
involved, obtain medical attention. forcements, the woven fabric is the easiest to handle and
3. When working in confined spaces, be sure there the most dependable for repair work.
is adequate ventilation. Where such ventilation cannot
be provided, organic respirators are required for Two types of resins are usually used for repairing
protection against fumes. reinforced plastics. The first is a polyester, which may
be obtained in a wide range of viscosities. The consis-
4. If clothing becomes contaminated, remove it tency of the very high-viscosity resin resembles heavy
and wash it thoroughly before reuse. molasses, while that of the low-viscosity resin is like
5. Always wash exposed skin areas thoroughly water. Usually, the low-viscosity resin will saturate or
when you are finished working. “wet-out” a glass reinforcement faster, but it will also
6. Keep chemical containers clearly labeled and drain more rapidly on a vertical surface. This drainage
tightly covered when they are not in use. When mixing may be undesirable in some applications and may be
a polyester resin, NEVER mix the catalyst and minimized by the addition of a small amount of a finely
accelerator directly together or an explosion may result. divided silica. A highly viscous resin may be thinned
Always mix chemicals according to instructions. by the use of a small amount of styrene. Many resins are
7. Do not smoke or work near hot surfaces or open available commercially that have been specially com-
flames while using these materials. pounded to the proper viscosity for repair use.
Polyesters are also extremely versatile in cure
Basic Considerations (hardening) characteristics. The addition of a small
amount of an organic peroxide catalyst in a powder,
Many factors determine how closely the strength of paste, or liquid form, and an accelerator will cause a
a reinforced plastic repair will resemble the strength of cure to occur at ambient temperatures above 50°F with-
the original laminate. Workmanship, repair techniques, out the application of heat. The working life (time
the glass reinforcement, and resin all play an important within which the resin remains liquid and usable) and
part in any repair. Reinforced plastics are easy to repair cure time may be varied by adjusting the proportions of
if you have a knowledge of materials used and proper the catalyst and accelerator used. The resin supplier will
repair techniques. generally provide information on resin formulations.
Some resins are supplied with the accelerator already
Three types of reinforcement are most frequently added, thus only the addition of the catalyst is required.
used—singly or in combination—in glass-reinforced
Temperature greatly affects the cure time of polyesters;
plastic laminates. The cheapest and weaker type, ran- the higher the temperature, the faster they will cure.
dom glass mat, consists of chopped glass fibers that are Polyesters also have a limited storage life of about 6
either lightly bonded together with a small amount of months to a year. Standing in storage causes them to
binder resin, or mechanically stitched into a random,
gradually thicken until they become unusable even
jackstraw arrangement. These mats may be obtained in
though the catalyst has not been added.
weights from 1/2 ounce to 3 ounces per square foot. The
strongest and most expensive type is woven glass cloth. Epoxy, the second type of resin that may be used
It is available in a wide range of weaves and styles, in reinforced plastics repair at room temperature, is
varying from a coarse, loosely woven fabric to a fine, widely recognized as an adhesive for a great variety

of materials. Although better adhesive properties are changing hardeners or by cooling or heating the resin.
generally claimed for epoxies, especially when heat is There are many types of room temperature hardeners
applied to achieve a higher strength bond, they are from which to choose. Users are cautioned that room
more costly than polyesters. Like the polyesters, temperature hardeners are alkaline in nature, so they
epoxies are available in a variety of viscosities and should be handled with care. Rubber gloves and eye
with a wide range of other characteristics. protection are recommended when you are handling
Epoxy resins are activated for room temperature epoxy resin and hardener. Always wash the skin
cures by the addition of a recommended amount of a immediately after any contact with the hardener.
specific room temperature hardener. However, unlike
the polyesters, the proportions of hardener should not Repair Procedures
be varied to change the cure time, since any change in
concentration will adversely affect the other The three types of repair patches applied to
properties. Cure conditions can be varied only by reinforced plastic laminate are shown in figure 4-7.

Figure 4-7.—Types of patches applied to reinforced plastic boats.

They are the surface patch, the one-sided patch, and Protective equipment, such as goggles and
the two-sided patch. respirator
The basic steps are (1) planning the repair, (2) Ruler
preparing the damaged area, (3) tailoring the
reinforcement material, (4) preparing the resin system, Saw (metal-cutting handsaw, holesaw, or re-
(5) impregnating the reinforcement with resin, (6) ciprocating saw) for cutting away the dam-
applying the patch, (7) curing (hardening) the patch, aged area
and (8) finishing.
Disk sander, cone sander, or file for grinding
PLANNING THE REPAIR.—Before beginning away the damaged portion and scarfing (bev-
the repair, several details should be checked and eling edge of cutout area)
advance plans made to avoid later problems. If the
repair is to be accomplished in an unsheltered area, Cardboard, sheet metal, or plywood panel for
check the weather. If it is cold (below 50°F), rainy, or use as backing and cover plates
blustery, wait for a better day or move to some indoors Tape, shoring, or bracing for attaching or sup-
area away from the elements. If it is a bright, sunny porting the backing and cover plates
day, be sure that the area is well shaded.
Assemble the necessary equipment, in the Acetone for cleaning the surface and the
quantities required, at the repair site. This includes the equipment
materials provided in the plastic repair kit plus the In determining the quantities of materials
following supplementary items: required for the repair, outline the area to be cut away
and mark the area to be scarfed (beveled) with chalk
Chalk for marking the area to be repaired (fig. 4-8). The recommended width of the scarf for

Figure 4-8.—Oval-shaped chalk marks delineate the area to be cut away (inside chalk marks) and the area to be scarfed (outside
chalk mark to inside).

laminates up to three-fourths of an inch thick can be Turn to the nomogram (fig. 4-9) to obtain an esti-
obtained from figure 4-9. mate of the materials required. Draw a straight line
between scale A (average diameter and/or average area)
Round or oval-shaped repairs are preferable to
on the left side and scale B (thickness) on the right side.
ensure that you get a better bond and less chance of Where this line intersects scale C, read the approximate
cracks in the base material. You should never use amounts of cloth and resin required. Note that the
rectangular cuts with sharp comers. To estimate the estimate exceeds the actual requirement by 30 to 40
amount of resin and glass reinforcement required for percent, particularly with respect to cloth, to allow for
a round patch, determine the thickness of the laminate wastage. Select from the kit the number and size of cans
and the average diameter. For a rectangular or oval of resins and hardener required. To avoid waste, open
patch (fig. 4-10), the average area must be estimated. and mix the cans as they are needed.

Figure 4-9.—Estimating materials.

Scale B also indicates the recommended width of
the scarf and the approximate number of plies of cloth
required for any given thickness. The number of plies
required is affected by the variation in the thickness of
the cloth, the viscosity of the resin used (the thicker the
resin, the fewer the plies), and workmanship. The
amount of cloth specified on scale C is based on the
maximum number of plies that might be used, and the
resin estimate is based upon an approximate resin con-
tent of 60 percent.
To illustrate the use of the nomogram, assume that
a repair is to be made to an 8-inch diameter hole in a
1/4-inch thick laminate. Looking at scale B, the recom-
mended width of the scarf is 4 inches, and the approxi-
mate number of plies of style #1000 glass cloth is 13 to
16. The average diameter will be 8 inches + 4 inches
(fig. 4-9) = 12 inches. Drawing a line between 12 inches
on scale A and 1/4 inch on scale B (see dotted line in
fig. 4-9), approximately 18 square feet of style #1000
glass cloth and 1 quart of resin are required. (As men-
tioned previously, the materials estimate may be 30 to
40 percent in excess of the actual requirement.)
next step is to prepare the damaged area. This is
accomplished in one of two ways. If the damage
extends only partially through the laminate, merely
grind the damaged area down to the sound laminate
with a disk or cone sander using a coarse abrasive. If
the break is all the way through the laminate, however,
the damaged area should be cut out on the first chalk
mark nearest the damage with a metal cutting handsaw
Figure 4-10.—Average diameter and area of a patch. or reciprocating sabre saw (fig. 4-11). Then, scarf back

Figure 4-11.—Damaged area being cut away.

to the second chalk mark (fig. 4-12). This increases When accomplishing a repair on a vertical surface,
the area to which the patch will adhere so that a use a plate on each side of the patch to hold the patch
stronger bond may be obtained. The roughened in place while it is curing. Cover these plates with
surface caused by the coarse abrasive provides a better separating film so that they may be removed easily
bond between the old surface and the patch. After the later. Hold the plates in place by taping, shoring, or
grinding has been completed, wipe away all the bracing them with lumber (fig. 4-13).
sanding dust and clean the entire adjacent area with
If the underside of the damaged area is
acetone or lacquer thinner.
inaccessible, apply a resin-wetted backup patch about
The procedure just described is for preparing a 2 inches larger than the hole into the scarfed area on
damaged area for the application of a patch on one the exposed side. This patch should be allowed to cure
side. The patch will generally be placed on the readily (harden) to form a foundation for the patching
accessible external surface, because it provides greater material. After the backup patch has hardened, lightly
resistance to external stresses. However, in instances sand the surface to provide a better bond between it
where maximum strength is necessary in both and the material to be added later.
directions, and both sides are readily accessible, it may
be desirable to make a patch on both sides (view C of TAILORING THE REINFORCEMENT
fig. 4-7). Both sides are prepared in the same manner MATERIAL.—To cut the glass reinforcement to fit
as a repair to one side. Then, the patch must be made the repair, prepare paper templates for the innermost
on both sides. Repairs of this type are especially ply that are slightly larger than the hole, and for the
desirable for thick laminates (three-eighths of an inch outermost ply to barely overlap the scarfed area. Each
and over). Apply the temporary backing plate to of the intermediate plies should be cut proportionally
support the patch while it is curing (hardening). For larger than the preceding smaller ply. (See fig. 4-9 for
small repairs on flat surfaces, the backing plate can be the approximate number of plies required for a given
a piece of heavy cardboard, plywood, or sheet metal. thickness.) If the patch is being made from both sides,
For curved areas, a formed piece of aluminum or steel two sets of plies should be tailored as described, one
sheet metal is generally preferred. for each side.

Figure 4-12.—Scarfing operation.

Figure 4-13.—Placing shoring over a film-covered backing plate.

Keep all glass reinforcements clean and dry. They in the kit has a relatively short working life that
should not be handled with dirty or greasy hands. Cut depends primarily on temperature conditions.
and handle the reinforcement carefully since the cut IMPREGNATING THE MATERIAL AND
edges of some reinforcements unravel easily if APPLYING THE PATCH.—There are two methods
handled carelessly. Glass cloth should be used for for preparing the reinforcement material with resin for
most general repairs, especially where strength is applying the patch: method one, which is particularly
important. The glass mat may be used in fillets or for desirable for use with the vertical patch; and method
thicker buildups. alone or in combination with glass two, which is desirable for use on horizontal surfaces
cloth. where impregnated plies can be laid in place one at a
PREPARING THE RESIN SYSTEM.—The time. In both methods, the first step is to brush a coat
resin and hardener in the repair kit has been of mixed resin formulation over the area to be
preweighed and packaged in the proper proportions repaired.
for mixing. If the temperature is much above 70°F, Method One.—On a flat surface lay a piece of
bring the resin temperature down to about 70°F, as separating film larger than the largest tailored ply of
higher temperatures will shorten the working life of reinforcement. Center the largest ply of glass cloth on
the resin. Conversely, if the temperature is low, it is the separating film and saturate it with resin mix by
advisable to keep the resin indoors until used. Prior to brushing or by pouring and spreading the mix with a
opening the containers, clean and dry them thoroughly wooden spatula from the repair kit. Center the second
so that no moisture or foreign matter will get into tailored ply over the first ply, then impregnate it with
them. NEVER mix the hardener with the resin until resin. Continue this procedure, saturating each
the preceding steps have been accomplished. The successive smaller ply thoroughly, until all tailored
amount of resin needed for the patch may be estimated plies of reinforcement are finished, with the smallest
from figure 4-9. ply on top. Apportion the resin so that there is enough
to uniformly saturate all plies. Then cover the
Be sure to mix the entire contents of the hardener saturated reinforcement with another sheet of
container thoroughly with the resin. Once the resin separating film and work the air bubbles out by
formulation has been thoroughly mixed, the “die is squeezing the wet reinforcement from the center
cast.” Work ahead steadily to complete the repair outward with a clean spatula or spreader from the kit.
within the working life of the resin. The resin system Keep a close check that the time does not exceed the

working life of the resin. After most of the air and squeeze through the next ply, pushing out the
excess resin have been removed, it may be desirable entrapped air. Place a clean sheet of separating film
to apply another coat of the remaining resin to the over the top ply and work out the excess air and resin
repair area to assure that there is sufficient bonding from the center to the edge of the patch. A cover plate
resin. may be used.
Next, carefully feed the top layer of separating If the patch is being applied to both sides, follow
film adjacent to the smallest ply from the patch; then the method being used for each side separately. The
lift and center the patch over the hole with the length of scarf and the amount of materials estimated
separating film on the outside (fig. 4-14). This film for the repair on each side should be based on one-half
should not be removed. With this film in place, once of the total thickness of the laminate. Apply the patch
again work out any entrapped air and excess resin to one side; then after it has cured, lightly sand the
using a roller or wooden spatula. This also causes the opposite side and apply the second patch to that side.
patch to make intimate contact with the scarfed area. In some applications, a patch can be applied to both
When the patch is being made on a vertical surface, sides in succession (before the first patch cures); how-
apply a cover plate by taping, clamping, or bracing, to ever, this procedure requires care and skill.
hold the patch firmly in place during the time needed
for hardening or curing. CURING.—The patch should remain un-
disturbed at least overnight. Heat lamps may be used
Method Two.—When using this procedure, you to speed the cure (fig. 4-15); but in using, you should
will lay individual plies of glass directly in place. One not overheat the patched area as the cure reaction may
advantage this method has over method one, is that “run away,” causing frothing, blisters, and porosity.
plies or reinforcements may be omitted or added in the Lamps should be kept at least 1 1/2 feet away. You
event the calculated number of plies does not give the should wait a couple of hours to permit the resin to set
correct thickness buildup. A very liberal coating of at room temperature and then give it a final “kick” with
resin must first be applied to the repair area. Then heat.
place the smallest ply of reinforcement in the hole and
saturate it with resin. Add successively larger plies. FINISHING. —After 12 to 24 hours, the patch is
Apply sufficient resin to each ply so that it will ready for finishing. The time required will be less than

Figure 4-14.—Entire patch being put in place.

Figure 4-15.—Heat lamps in position to speed the cure.

this if heat is applied; but, in either case, the patch patch is in doubt, cut out the section slightly larger
should be hard and cool to the touch before than the original patch and redo the repair. Assuming
proceeding. Remove the cover plate and the the job has been done properly, lightly sand the
separating film. If it is necessary to do so, fill in surface (fig. 4-16). The finish may be a coat of resin
surface pits with the paste resin mix provided in the or paint.
kit. Inspect the repair for soundness by tapping it with REPAIRING SURFACE DEFECTS.—The
a coin or a metal object. A dull thud will indicate repair kit contains an epoxy-type paste resin system
softness, poor bond (delamination) between plies, or for making minor repairs to damaged plastic surfaces
poor bond to the original material. In the event that the such as seams, gouges, pits, or small holes. It can also
patch is of poor quality, and the effectiveness of the be used for filling and smoothing patches made with

Figure 4-16.—Sanding a completed patch.

liquid resin systems and glass reinforcements, and for failure later on. For example, if failure is in the bond,
repairing minor damage to other materials such as is it the result of insufficient bond area, peeling action,
wood and metals. Clean and abrade around the or poor bonding technique? Examine the bonded area
damaged area. Then, squeeze out the required length to ascertain if a uniform and sufficient amount of
of paste resin from the tube. Parallel to the resin, adhesive was applied. Compare the amount of the area
squeeze out an equal length of hardener. This may be that failed within the laminated part with the area that
done on a flat surface that is covered with a piece of failed in adhesion at the laminate surface to see if the
separating film. Mix the two materials with the small surfaces were improperly prepared. Surfaces should
mixing stick. The resin is white and the hardener is be carefully sanded and cleaned before bonding. Any
black; when properly mixed the blend will have a repair should be aimed at preventing future failures.
uniform gray color. Spread the mixture over the If a stiffener has broken and must be replaced, the
damaged area with the mixing stick or a putty knife. method of repair will depend on whether it has been
Cover the repair with a piece of separating film and, integrally molded as shown in view A of figure 4-17
with a clean mixing stick or spreading tool, smooth the or bonded in place as shown in views B and C. In the
resin from the center outward to obtain the desired latter cases, the entire stiffener may be completely
contour. Finish the patch as previously described. removed by delaminating the bond, and a new
stiffener fabricated by the WET LAYUP technique
Bolthole Repair shown in view B of figure 4-17, or molded separately
and bonded to the plating. The use of positive
To repair a slightly elongated or oval bolthole fasteners, at least at the ends and center of the stiffener,
where the washer or bolthole still bears on the is often desirable where service loads are such that a
laminate, slightly abrade the enlarged portion of the possibility of peeling exists.
hole with a file or sandpaper. Then fill the area of
clearance around the fastener with the paste resin mix. In the case of integral stiffeners, the damaged
portion should be cut away to the extent necessary to
To repair a badly damaged bolthole, perhaps assure stiffeners a satisfactory repair, and this area
caused by a bolt pulling through the laminate, remove
replaced, taking care that a good bond to the plating
the bolts and separate the primary structure from any and adjacent members is obtained.
secondary member where necessary. Cut away the
damaged surrounding area with a metal-cutting saw as Repairs to stiffeners may be accomplished with
before. From this point, follow the same plastic boat the materials provided in the repair kit and simple
repair procedures described earlier in this chapter. Put wooden forms, using the repair techniques previously
extra plies of reinforcement in this area to provide described. All surfaces to be bonded must be sanded
additional strength. After the repair is completed, drill and cleaned to assure good adhesion. The cross section
new boltholes-this time with proper clearance and and size of the replacement stiffener should be
bearing area. To prevent recurrence of such a failure, increased where necessary to provide additional
replace the bolts and washers with a larger size or a bonding area or strength.
reinforcing plate.
Repairing Glass-Reinforced Plastic Coatings
Repairing a Damaged Reinforcing
Member or Stiffener Damaged portions of glass fiber-reinforced resin
coatings on wooden boats and other structures can be
The stiffeners used in reinforced plastic structures
repaired with the resin and glass reinforcement
may be of various shapes that are either integrally
supplied in the repair kit. The steps for this repair
molded with the plating or secondarily bonded to the
procedure are outlined as follows:
plating. Figure 4-17 shows some typical stiffened
panel constructions. Failure may be the result of poor 1. Cut away any loose or damaged sections of the
bonding (in the case of secondarily bonded stiffeners), glass-resin coating.
inadequate design, or unusual service loads. It is
2. Repair or replace any of the wood that has been
necessary that such failures be repaired as soon as damaged. Fill seams and cracks with water-mixed wood
possible to avoid further damage to the structure. putty or plastic wood. The resin and hardener or epoxy
When you begin the repair, keep in mind the cause paste supplied in the kit may be used for filling. DO
of the failure and correct any defects to prevent similar NOT use oil-base putty.

Figure 4-17.—Typical stiffeners.

3. After the putty has hardened, sand the area to be sheet of separating film over the glass-resin layup and
repaired down to the wood and sand the surface of the work out the entrapped air and excess resin by stroking
resin-coated glass to produce a 6-inch wide abraded from the center outward with the spreading tool. Tape
surface around the void. the film in place.
4. Cut the same number of plies used for the 8. After the patch has set, remove the separating
original coating and tailor these to fit the patch and the
film. Sand off any excess resin or irregularities. If the
abraded area around it.
patch is to be painted, sand the surface lightly before
5. Based on the amount of cloth used for the patch, painting.
estimate the amount of resin needed. Mix the liquid
resin and hardener.
Large Hole Repairs
6. Paint a liberal coat of the resin-hardener mixture
over the abraded wood and over the abraded adjacent In repairing large holes that completely penetrate
area. the laminate, mark the damaged area with chalk, as
7. Place one of the plies of cloth over the painted shown earlier in figure 4-8. Using a reciprocating
area and coat it with additional resin-hardener mixture. sabre saw, cut away the damaged area enclosed by the
Lay up the remaining plies in the same manner. Place a chalk mark. (See fig. 4-11.)

Figure 4-l8.—Cutting the patch from preformed laminate.

After the damaged area has been cut away, cut the
patch from a section of preformed laminate of about
the same thickness as the area being repaired. (See fig.
4-18.) Center the preformed laminate over the area
being repaired and mark off the area to which the
scarfing will extend, as shown in figure 4-19. If the
opposite side of the area being repaired is accessible,
make a second chalk mark conforming to the hole size
on the preformed patch, as shown in figure 4-18. This
delineates the extent of the scarfing to be done on the
preformed patch. In case the opposite side is
inaccessible, a template may be required to mark off
this area to which the scarfing must extend on the
patch in order for it to fit. Scarf the area around the
Figure 4-19.—Delineating the area where the scarf will hold so that a gradual taper extends back to the chalk
extend on the area being repaired. mark, as shown in figure 4-12. Repeat this procedure

Figure 4-20.—Tailoring reinforcement. Laminate has been scarfed to fit level on the area to be repaired.

with the preformed patch. Check to be sure that the and cut two or more bonding plies of glass cloth. The
preformed laminate fits snugly over the hole. It should reinforcement material should be cut slightly larger
if the preformed patch and the damaged area have been than the preformed patch.
properly scarfed. No backing plate is required when
After the resin and hardener have been mixed, apply
making this type of repair.
a coating to the scarfed section of the area to be repaired.
To make the reinforcement material, use the (See fig. 4-21.) Then, coat the scarfed side of the patch
preformed patch as a pattern as shown in figure 4-20 piece with the resin mixture, as shown in figure 4-22.

Figure 4-21.—Coating the scarfed side of a damaged boat.

Figure 4-22.—Costing the scarfed side of the laminate patch.

Center a bonding ply over the preformed patch as shown patching by abrading the scarfs around the holes.
in figure 4-23, and saturate it with resin. (See fig. 4-24.) Patch one skin and allow it to cure. After this patch
Repeat this procedure with the other bonding plies. has cured, cut and fit the core section. Secure the core
Position this assembly over the hole as shown earlier in section with repair resin. Then, repair the second skin.
figure 4-14, and cover it with a sheet of separating film.
Where damage is to only one skin and core, cut
The patch can be held in place by a cover plate, or by
shoring as shown earlier in figure 4-13 until the patch out a circle of skin with a sharp-cutting tool such as a
hardens or cures. The patch is completed in the same hole saw. Cut the skin away from the core material
manner as previously described. with a knife. Damaged honeycomb core can be cut
with sharp shears and pulled out with needle nose
pliers. Other types of core material, such as plastic
Repairing Double-Skin Plastic Boats foam, can be cut out with a knife. Cut a piece of core
material to fit the section that was cut out. Be careful
To repair damage that extends through both skins
to match the pattern, if necessary. Cement the material
and the core section of plastic boats, follow the
in place with repair resin and proceed to repair the
procedures described earlier under repair procedures.
outer skin as described previously.
Cut out the damaged areas and prepare the skins for
Damage to the skin only can be repaired in the
same way as a conventional repair to reinforced


From a wide range of aluminum alloys available

for many purposes, the Navy selected those most
suitable for salt water use for boat hulls. The hulls of
Navy aluminum boats are usually constructed of either
alloy 5086 or 5456. Both alloys contain magnesium as
the primary alloying ingredient, but differ slightly in
strength. In general, these two alloys are not used in
Figure 4-23.—Centering the first bonding ply. combination except when emergency repairs are

Figure 4-24.—Saturation of the bonding ply with resin.

Alloy 6061 is a general-purpose structure alloy to be permitted to come in contact with each other.
using a combination of magnesium and silicon as the Observing these precautions enables routine
chief alloying ingredients. Its use in the Navy should maintenance to be kept to aminimum.
be restricted to auxiliary systems, such as piping and Galvanic corrosion caused by a dissimilar metal
railings, and to nonwelded structures. contacting aluminum can occur. In marine
Two other alloys that may be found in limited applications, aluminum and its alloys are frequently
quantities are 5083 and 7039. These are used only for the anodic metal and could corrode in preference to
armor and are supplied especially for that purpose. As most other common contacting metals except zinc and
such, they should not be used for other structural areas magnesium. However, for galvanic corrosion to occur,
of an aluminum boat. the following conditions must be satisfied: a cell must
be present consisting of at least two metals having
Aluminum alloys are not identifiable by different solution potentials and in electrical contact
appearance and, therefore, are usually appropriately with each other (no matter how indirect), and a
marked with alloy and temper designations. The conductive medium (electrolyte) must be present
temper designation follows the alloy number and between the metals.
indicates the degree of tempering. Tempering is done
in two ways depending on the alloy: either by strain Three applications account for most galvanic
hardening or by the heat-treatment process. An alloy corrosion situations: (1) connections of aluminum
that has been strain hardened has a designator deckhouse bulkheads to a steel boundary bar; (2) the
consisting of the letter H and a number, while an alloy attachment of steel or brass fittings to an aluminum
that has been heat treated has a designator consisting structure; or (3) dissimilar metal appendages, such as
of the letter T and a number. Thus, a plate labeled rudders and propellers, on an aluminum hull.
5086-H116 has been strain hardened, while one Cleanliness is always important—dirty, wet bilges
marked 6061-T6 has been heat treated. Any alloy will or accumulations of dirt and water anywhere are to be
be one or the other; for example, all tempers of 5086 avoided. A freshwater rinse on a regular basis is
begin with H. The exception is when aluminum is in generally sufficient.
the soft, or annealed, condition—indicated by the
suffix 0. Thus, both 5086-9 and 6061-9 (and others) ALUMINUM BOAT REPAIR
are available. The temper of material is of concern to
the repairer, since it is desirable to make replacements Cutting aluminum is more like cutting wood than
of damaged areas with the same alloy and the proper steel. An oxyacetylene flame is not used because the
temper. excellent thermal conductivity of aluminum carries
Aluminum is a lightweight material, and it is for heat away too fast to get a good cut. In repair work, all
this reason that it is used for boats and craft. It is cutting should be done mechanically using a circular
strong, weldable, and has excellent general corrosion saw, saber saw, or (in the shop) bandsaw equipment
resistance when proper marine alloys are employed. with metal-cutting blades. Use of a grease stick or lard
In the past, most interior spaces of naval boats were oil will prolong blade life. Plasma arc cutting
left unpainted in aluminum construction. There are, equipment is available for high-speed production
however, some precautions in the handling of work but is not needed for repair work. Shearing or
aluminum that must be observed if the full corrosion punching of strained hardened alloys should be
resistance capability of aluminum is to be achieved. avoided.

As with many materials, although mild acidic Forming is done cold or hot. Aluminum does not
solutions cause slight damage, caustic solutions of any change color with heat and does not glow red as does
sort such as sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, or steel. Excessive heating can cause the metal to anneal
sodium phosphate are particularly to be avoided; they to the soft condition or even melt or oxidize without
cause severe etching of the aluminum even to the any warning. Hot forming is done by carefully heating
extent of resulting in perforation. the metal to no more than 450°F. The temperature can
be estimated by the use of temperature-sensitive
The most stringent precautions must be taken in crayons. Each crayon is formulated to melt at a
the case of mercury. The presence of mercury even in different temperature; and by observing when the
small amounts on aluminum causes severe corrosive crayon markings on the metal melt, you can remove
attack, and under no circumstances are the two metals the heat source at the proper time.

Formed parts of a boat that have been damaged lap for mechanical fastenings. The unit can then be
must not be re-formed using heat. When possible, it is bolted to the aluminum hull with insulation between
suggested that the damaged part be replaced by new them. Splices can be made across the structural mem-
material formed for the job. bers. If tapes or neoprene are not available for insulating
Distorted plates, whether caused by damage or the the steel and the aluminum, material such as Butyl
heat of welding, must not be straightened by flame- rubber, polysulfide, or any heavy-bodied flexible coat-
quenching (torch heating followed by spray cooling). ing will do. Avoid wicking materials, such as flax or
The method does not work well and can result in over- canvas, and the use of lead-pigmented compounds, such
heating or melting as previously described. If the dis- as red lead. The steel temporary repair should be re-
tortion does nothing more harmful than detract from placed with the proper aluminum repair as soon as
appearance, it should be left alone. Otherwise, distorted possible.
shapes should be straightened cold, using jacks as nec-
essary, while distortion in plate panels may be relieved STEEL BOAT REPAIR
either cold or by making a saw cut in the center of the
panel and rewelding it. When you weld a saw cut, ensure Permanent repairs of steel boats must be
that the correct alloy is used. Cracking of the weld will accomplished by qualified welders and nondestructive
result if the alloy of the filler metal or authorized alter- test personnel. Fabrication, welding, and inspections
nate is not used. The normal shrinkage associated with must be accomplished as required by the BoatAlt or
aluminum welding will tend to remove the distortion. applicable alteration or repair drawing. NAVSEA
The light weight of aluminum will facilitate repair 0900-060-4010 and NSTM, chapter 074 (9920),
by making handling easier. In addition, the preparation should be used as guides.
of subassemblies or repair sections in the shop is greatly
If welding is impractical or impossible, use bolted UTILITY BOATS
aluminum alloy patches. For this type of repair, the
following is needed: an electric circular saw for cutting In the following sections, the discussion will deal
plate to size and for fairing out any jagged edges in the primarily with typical repairs made to utility boats.
hull penetration, and a good metal-cutting saw blade. When a boat is damaged, the HT is responsible for
After the patch plate is cut to size, connect it to the hull making the required repairs. As an HT, you must know
with aluminum or stainless steel bolts or other fasteners. the procedures for renewing a stem, stem frame, and
In an emergency, any type of bolt will do. However, this engine foundation in a small boat.
must be considered a temporary repair since dissimilar In general, the procedures described for repairing
metals cause galvanic corrosion. For bolting the patch utility boats are similar to those required for repairing
to the hull, insert a sealing material around the perime- motor boats, motor whale boats, and ships’ boats for
ter. If a number of repairs of this type are anticipated, other types.
then it might be wise to provide several rolls of the
sealing tapes used by aluminum small boat manufactur- CHOCKING THE BOAT
ers. Most major tape manufacturers supply these tapes
in various thicknesses and widths. These are the tapes Before beginning to work on a boat, you must get
used on modem day aluminum small boats and they do it into a safe position, retain its true form, and prevent
a good job, not only in sealing the seam, but also in further damage, Figure 4-25 shows a type of boat
keeping the rivets and bolts from leaking. The holes for chock that you can construct aboard ship. It is simply
the rivets or bolts will, of course, be made by a rotary a framework made from 4 by 4’s and braced with 2 by
drill. 6 lumber. The number of chocks and other bracing
If the boat incurs damage in a remote area where should be determined so that the craft can be held
there are no facilities for welding, and aluminum is not reasonably rigid to a fixed position.
available, temporary repairs can be made with steel NOTE: When positioning chocks, ensure that they
patches. Some type of insulation, such as neoprene, bear on the hull at structurally reinforced areas.
should be used between the aluminum and steel, if
possible. Large, temporary hull repairs can be made in REMOVING DAMAGED PARTS
this manner. The damaged area can be cropped out. The
steel repair plate, including structural framing mem- Remove damaged parts carefully since you will
bers, can be prefabricated by welding, leaving sufficient probably have to use them as patterns in making the new

1. Stem Apron 9. Beading Line
2. Main Stem Piece 10. Keelson
3. Stem Knee 11. Filling Block
4. Fore Foot 12. Floor Frame
5. Keel 13. Frame
6. Stopwater 14. False Keel
7. Bolts 15. Stem Band
8. Rabbet Line
Figure 4-26.—Nomenclature of the bow structure.
Figure 4-25.—Boat chock for shipboard use.

parts. As an example of the procedure for removing planks have become loosened from the frames and
damaged parts, a damaged stem can be removed as rabbet. If the planks do not come loose immediately,
follows: remove putty and caulking cotton from the seams and
1. Carefully scrape the paint from the stem and tap the planking gently with a rawhide mallet, on the
from the planking as far aft as necessary, exposing the frame side, to help break the seal.
countersunk screw holes or the wood plugs over the 6. When the seal is broken and the planking comes
fastenings. free from the frames, run a line around each plank and
fasten it to frame 2. This prevents the planking from
2. Remove the metal stem band, chafing plate, and springing out and breaking loose farther aft if it
bow chocks. Also, remove the platform decking to clear becomes necessary to remove the screws completely to
way for work. pull the stem apron.
3. Remove the brass bolts that secure the stem to 7. Pass a line through the uppermost bolthole in the
the stem apron and knee. Work from the stem apron stem and apron, and secure the line to a thwart. This
side, and use a drift pin to drive the bolts out. When the precaution is necessary to keep the stem and apron from
bolts are out, check them for defects; they may require falling to the deck when the assembly is freed.
rethreading or replacing. 8. Remove the breasthook. Then, the stem
4. Remove the brass screw from the stem where it assembly will be completely freed.
joins the knee. Figure 4-26 shows the stem and stem 9. Clean the stem and remove all putty, white lead,
apron assembly in relation to the keel, keelson, and and any foreign matter from the rabbet so that the stem
knee. will form an accurate pattern piece.
5. Remove plugs or putty from the screw holes, in
the hull planking, and back out the screws to about REPAIRING THE STEM
one-half their length. In backing out the screws, start aft
and work forward; except where hull planking is After the damaged stem has been removed and
damaged, all of the damaged material should be cleaned, use it as a pattern in making the template. Lay
removed. Do not remove any of the screws completely the damaged stem on a piece of 1/4-inch plywood and
until all of them have been partially backed out and the block it in a near-level position. Then, trace the outline

with a pencil. Be sure to keep the pencil vertical so that determine the overall size. The bevels are set on the
the boundaries of the template will be the same as the bandsaw; the cuts are then made; the piece is then
boundaries of the stem. Check the boundaries by using trimmed to the lines on the jointer.
dividers as a test gauge. Then cut the plywood on the The new stem and the new stem apron must be
penciled lines, and smooth the template with a plane. very accurately fitted. It is essential to drill the lowest
To lay out the rabbet, set the dividers at the distance bolthole on the stem so that it will match up
from the back of the damaged stem to the outside of the
EXACTLY with the bolthole in the knee. The best way
rabbet; then put the dividers on the template in the same
to make certain that the lowest bolthole on the stem is
relative location, and mark the template. Repeat this
aligned with the bolthole in the knee is to clamp the
procedure along the entire length of the stem, at ap-
stem to the knee (using C-clamps and blocks), and
proximately l-inch intervals, so that the rabbet line will
then drill through the bolthole in the knee. Be careful
be marked all the way along the template.
Next, place the template on the lumber, as shown in that you do not enlarge the bolthole in the knee while
figure 4-27, making sure that the maximum strength is you are drilling through the stem.
obtained by avoiding as much cross grain as possible. After this first bolthole has been drilled in the stem,
Mark off the stem on both sides of the lumber, according insert a bolt of the proper size and type and draw it taut.
to the template; allow 6 to 8 inches excess length above Then remove the C-clamps and the blocking. Place
the capping. cabinetmakers’ clamps over the stem and the knee, at
Remove the template, and cut the new stem. Use a each end. Then drill the second bolthole, insert the bolt,
bandsaw to cut within 1/32 inch of the lines; then finish and draw it taut. The completion of the job from this
by planing to the lines. Lay the template on the piece point is just a matter of fairing in, fitting, white leading,
again, and drive small nails through the template along shaping the stem to correspond to the width of the
the rabbet lines. Drive the nails entirely through the forefoot, tapering off to the full width at the top, and
template and into the piece so that the rabbet lines will drilling holes for stopwater. Do not try to drill the holes
be marked on the piece by the small nail holes. Then, for stopwaters until after the stem has been set in place.
remove the template and drive small nails into the holes Any damaged planking should be replaced at least
in the new piece. Draw pencil lines from nail to nail, six frames aft of the stem to ensure a substantial
and you will have the rabbet lines marked on the new planking jott. If more than one plank must be replaced,
stem. Figure 4-28 shows the procedure for transferring be sure to stagger the after end joints of adjacent
rabbet lines. planks so that they are at least two frames apart. Figure
Chisel a series of notches on the rabbet lines. Be 4-29 illustrates a completed stem repair job. Notice
careful that you do not remove too much wood; that the boltholes are ready for plugging, and the two
additional paring may be done when the planks are new planks are ready for caulking.
being fitted to the stem. In cutting the rabbet, use a
piece of planking as a template. Make the steam apron
by copying the damaged piece. You do not have to
make a template, since you can use a bevel square to
get the bending lines and a rule and compass to

Figure 4-27.—Using the template. Figure 4-28.—Transfer of rabbet lines.

cap as far aft as necessary to enable you to work on the
sheer clamp and the sheer strake. Then remove the sheer
strake by cutting the proper rivets and driving them
from the frames and the clamp. Because of the twist and
curvature of the damaged piece, you will have to re-
move the sheer clamp much farther aft than the end of
the split. When you have decided where to cut the
clamp, remove the clamp filling blocks for as many
frames forward and aft as necessary to allow you to cut
the clamp. Then saw through the clamp, and remove the
damaged piece.
Select a new piece of timber for the replacement
piece. Surface the piece to the correct thickness, length,
and width, and lay out the scarf joint. Be sure to make
the scarf joint of the proper proportions; the length
should be at least six times the depth. Cut to the lines,
and smooth the wood with a sharp chisel and a plane.
Make a pattern of the finished scarf, and transfer the
lines to the undamaged section of the clamp. Cut and
smooth the scarf on the undamaged section, as you did
Figure 4-29.—Completed repair to a stem. on the new piece.
Steam the new piece and bend it to the proper shape.
Using C-clamps or cabinetmakers’ draw clamps, clamp
REPAIRING THE SHEER CLAMP the new piece in place from the scarf end forward, and
reinstall the filling blocks. Drill the scarf joint for car-
Suppose the sheer clamp is split from the apron to riage bolts, insert the bolts, and tighten the nuts over
as far aft as the sixth or seventh frame. How would you washers. Figure 4-30 shows the completed scarf on the
proceed to repair the damage? First, remove the sheer sheer clamp.

Figure 4-30.—Completed scarf joint on the shear clams.

Loosen the draw clamps and replace the sheer the after-deck area of the rudder assembly, taff railing,
strake. Then put the clamps on again and draw them and all hardware; and then remove the decking. Figure
taut. Using the existing rivet holes in the sheer strake 4-33 shows the stem with the hardware and the
as a guide, drill holes for 1/4-inch copper rivets. Then decking removed, but with deck supports still in place.
rivet the clamp to the breast hook. Nail the sheer strake Figure 4-34 shows the deck supports and the transom
in place, using 4-inch copper nails, and trim the upper knee.
edges to conform with the camber. Then install the Remove all screws that join the transom planking
capping, and the repair job is finished except for to the inner frame, and remove the copper rivets that
caulking, sanding, puttying, and painting. fasten the transom planking and the outer bounding
frame to the inner bounding frame. The outer
REPAIRING THE STERN bounding frame is a filler piece, and will come free
when the seal is broken. The inner frame, which is in
Let’s assume that you have to renew a transom four pieces, should be removed to the joint nearest the
bounding frame, the stern-post knee, and deck break. The procedure for laying out, cutting,
supports on a wooden boat. Figure 4-31 shows details smoothing, and fitting the replacement pieces is the
of transom construction. Figure 4-32 shows the outer same as that previously described for other members.
bounding frame of the starboard transom, ready for
repair. Note that the transom angles have been
removed, and the paint has been scraped off.
To remove the outer bounding frame, you must Procedures for renewing engine foundations vary
also remove the inner frame. To do this, you must strip considerably, depending upon the type of boat. In

Figure 4-31.—Transom construction.

Figure 4-34.—Deck supports and transom knee.
Figure 4-32.—Outer bounding frame, starboard transom.

is usually secured to the engine stringer with bolts.

Engine hold-down bolts are installed with the heads at
the seam between the engine bed and engine stringer.
These bolts protrude upward about 2 or 3 inches above
the top of the engine bed, and the engine is fitted over
the protruding end. A nut is used on each of these bolts
to hold the engine in place. Gaps are cut at the seam
between the engine bed and the engine stringer to
allow access to the heads of the hold-down bolts.


Figure 4-33.—View of stern, with decking removed. The qualities required in deck coverings for naval
ships include nonflammability, wear resistance,
lightness of weight, slip resistance, ability to protect
performing this job, remove the engine and the steel decks from corrosion, good appearance, and ease
damaged pieces carefully so that you can use them to of maintenance. Simplicity of application and the
make templates. initial cost of the material are also important
As a rule, the engine stringer is secured to the floor
timber with rods. Since the nuts are on the face of the A number of different kinds of deck coverings are
stringer, you must back off the underneath planking available. However, deck coverings used in any area
so that the rods may be removed, when necessary, to aboard ship must be according to NAVSEA
replace the stringers or defective parts. The engine bed instructions and specifications. Information on deck

coverings that are not discussed in this chapter may be RUBBER TILE OR ROLL DECKING
obtained from NSTM, chapter 634. MATERIALS
In general, an existing deck covering in The tile and the roll decking must meet the fire
satisfactory condition should not be replaced even if requirements of MIL-STD-1623. Rubber tile or roll
it does not agree with the materials listed for the deck coverings should be installed one-eighth of an
specific space. New deck coverings should be inch thick, except where durability is required for the
installed only where existing authorized deck heaviest traffic areas. In this case, the thickness should
coverings are beyond economical repair. When repairs be three-sixteenths of an inch. The adhesive used to
are required, they should be performed locally if cement vinyl asbestos tile may be used for the rubber
possible. When complete removal and reinstallation decking materials, as well as other
of a new deck covering is required, an approved deck NAVSEA-approved equivalents. Immediately after
covering for the specific location should be installed. the installation of the rubber decking, the deck should
A deck covering should cover the entire deck area be rolled thoroughly in both directions with a
of a compartment unless otherwise specified, except 150-pound sectional roller.
that it should not be installed under enclosed built-in
furniture nor under equipment with enclosed Installation
Before laying any type of deck covering, be sure All deck covering and adhesives should be stored
that the deck is clean and free of rust, loose scale, and for at least 24 hours at a temperature of 70°F or higher
dirt; grease and oil should be removed with solvents prior to installation. Spaces should be maintained at a
and clean rags. Paint and primers that adhere strongly temperature of at least 70°F prior to, during, and 24
hours after the installation is completed. A beading
to the deck may be left intact unless otherwise
sealer should be used to waterproof all seams against
bulkheads, stationary furniture, pipes, and other deck
Certain adhesives and compounds used in the fittings. Where weld lines (beads) prevent the deck
application of deck coverings contain flammable covering from butting tightly against the ship’s
solvents. Safety and health measures to be taken structure, caulking compound should be used to fill
depend upon the flash points and toxicity of the the gap, and painted to blend with the deck tile or
solvents. Be sure to comply with all applicable safety bulkhead after the caulking compound skins over.
precautions. Alternatively, weld lines against bulkheads may be
made even by filling underlay material and the tile
FIRE-RETARDANT DECK TILE butted against the bulkhead. This latter method
produces a better appearance. If desired, the tile may
Marbleized fire-retardant vinyl tile, one-eighth of be squared off where it is in the way of vertical
an inch thick, is the standard Navy deck tile approved stiffeners and stanchions.
for shipboard use. Vinyl tile is stocked in eight
marbleized colors. Preparation of Steel Decks
Deck tile should be laid over bare wood, plastic,
or cleaned base metal that has been primed with Steel decks must be clean, free from oil, grease,
formula 150 MIL-P-24441. Tile must not be installed rust, and loose scale. It is not necessary to remove red
more than two layers thick because the additional lead or zinc-chromate priming paint, or deck paint if
layers increase the fire hazard. In general, when laying they are well bonded to the deck; otherwise, loose
new tile, remove tile down to base metal or wood if paint, rust, and scale should be removed by blasting,
two layers have previously been installed. Prime the wire brushing, or any other effective method. The deck
deck to prevent corrosion if it is made of metal. should then be washed with approved solvents to
remove grease and contaminants and the steel primed
Fire-retardant deck tile should conform to with formula 150, 2- to 4-mils dry-film thickness. If
MIL-T-18830 or other NAVSEA-approved possible, weld seams should be ground flush with the
equivalent, and they should be installed with a latex deck, and all low spots should be filled with underlay,
cement, except in damp or wet areas where it is MIL-D-3135, type II. All high spots should be ground
advisable to use an epoxy adhesive. down, if possible, or faired with underlay before

applying the primer. The deck must be dry at the time Water can affect adhesive and loosen tiles; therefore,
the deck covering is installed. swabbing the deck should not be done for 1 week after
installation; for general cleaning, use water sparingly to
prevent corrosion under tiles.
Application of Deck Tile

Installation pointers for laying rubber and vinyl Installation of Rubber Roll,
tile are as follows: Vinyl Sheet, or Mat

1. Store the tiles for 24 hours at a minimum When installing these materials in front of
temperature of 70°F. (At temperatures below 70°F, the equipment only, cut the sheet to the desired length and,
material is not sufficiently flexible for satisfactory with a straightedge, cut off the selvedge (if applicable)
installation.) To ensure straight seams, square off the before cementing the sheet. When installing sheeting
areas to be covered and, if practicable, start the material over an entire deck area, lay out the space,
installation of tile at the center of the space and work to cutting all sheets to the desired length; then overlap
the edges to achieve an even balance of tile around the edges of the sheet so all seams can be double cut, using
edges of the space. a straightedge, to assure tight fit. After the material has
been cut and fitted, roll the sheets back and cement
2. If a pattern of two or more colors is desired, plan
half the space. Lay sheets down into position. Then
this on graph paper in advance (each square of the paper
repeat the process for the other half.
can be considered one tile). For spaces with nonparallel
opposite bulkheads, use a large square and chalk line at 1. When cementing, use a latex-type adhesive
comers to square off the compartment into a rectangular conforming to MIL-A-21016. If a sheet has a tendency
or square layout. To locate the center of the space, strike to bubble or lift after installation, it may be necessary
a chalk line from the midpoints of opposite bulkheads to substitute a stronger adhesive such as an epoxy
after squaring off. adhesive. The adhesive should be spread with a notched
trowel, making certain that the entire surface is covered.
3. It is important that installation start at sections
When the adhesive is tacky, install the sheet.
of the space where work can proceed to completion
Immediately after installation thoroughly roll the deck
without kneeling on freshly laid tile. Cement should be
in both directions with a 150-pound sectional roller.
spread with a fine-toothed trowel (approximately 1
square yard at a time) at a coverage of 100 square feet 2. For additional information concerning
per gallon (excess cement will reduce adhesion). While materials used to prevent electric shock, see NSTM,
the cement is tacky, force the tiles into tight contact with chapter 634.
each other. Half tiles can be cut by scoring and cutting
through with a sharp knife. Vinyl asbestos tile should Repair or Replacement of Deck Tiles
be made flexible by heating before cutting. A dull or
unpointed linoleum knife should not be used for cutting If a tile requires replacement, remove it by forcing
the tiles because uneven edges will result. a wide-blade paint scraper under it. Inspect for
Care also should be taken that the cement does not corrosion. Chip out the dried cement and corrosion
get on the surface of the tiles. Excess cement may be products to bare steel, clean the spot with paint
thinner, coat it with primer, and apply tile as
cleaned off, while wet, with a damp rag. If cement is
previously described.
dry, a rag that has been wet with paint thinner will
remove the cement. Pressure should be applied to
ensure complete contact of each tile with the deck. LATEX UNDERLAY
Any high joints remaining after this operation should
be rubbed even and smooth with a hand roller. Latex underlay should conform to MIL-D-3135,
type I, for use under latex terrazzo, latex, mastic, and
4. Travel over the newly cemented areas should be ceramic tile.
restricted until the installation is completed; then the
deck can be opened to foot traffic immediately since no Surface Preparation
indentations will occur from this type of traffic
However, it is recommended that heavy concentrated Remove rust and paint. Clean the deck free of oil,
loads, such as legs of heavy furniture, be kept off the grease, and dirt with an approved degreasing solvent.
deck until the cement has set (approximately 18 hours). Apply one coat of epoxy primer, formula 150,

MIL-P-24441, 2- to 4-mils dry-film thickness, formula 150, MIL-P-24441, 2- to 4-mils dry-film
according to NSTM, chapter 631. thickness, or an equivalent coating.

Surface Wetting Coat Installation

One part rubber latex mixed thoroughly with 2 The on-deck magnesia insulation should be
parts underlay powder by weight should be brushed trowelled smooth, a minimum of 1 inch thick over
on in a thin coat, assuring that all of the deck is wetted rough finish latex underlay MIL-D-3135, type I.
thoroughly. The purpose of the wetting coat is to Apply a one-eighth inch minimum thickness of
assure that the underlay bonds securely to the surface. underlay. Exposed aluminum fittings should be
protected from corrosive attack from the magnesia by
Underlay Body Coat either a coating satisfactory for aluminum (see NSTM,
chapter 631) or a suitable covering such as a wrapping
Mix thoroughly 1 part rubber latex, 1 1/2 parts of of a vinyl tape.
underlay powder, and 1 1/2 parts aggregate (all by
weight). Mix only in such quantity that the material
will not set up before application. Make certain there RUBBER TERRAZZO
are no dry particles left. The following approximate
quantities of materials are required to cover 100 Rubber terrazzo, which is used in washrooms,
square feet (one-fourth of an inch thick): showers, sculleries, and water closets, is a colored
material that contains chips of white and colored
49 lb rubber latex marble. The material is mixed at the time of
73 lb underlay powder application and is applied with trowels; it requires
machine grinding to provide a smooth surface. The
73 lb underlay aggregate usual thickness of application is one-fourth of an inch.
While the surface wetting coat is still wet, trowel The material may be applied to a maximum of one-half
on the underlay body coat and level off with battens. of an inch without causing the wet mix to sag. If
After leveling off, go over the surface with steel greater thickness must be used, apply latex underlay
trowels, working down hard to flow the mix together first.
and to blend it with the surface wetting coat. Allow The materials required for mixing rubber terrazzo
the surface to dry hard (at least 2 days) before applying are as follows:
the deck covering. If the underlay is used in excess of
one-half inch thick in one layer, it will tend to develop Liquid latex
hairline cracks. Latex underlayment for use under
deck tile and resilient sheeting should conform to Grout powder
MIL-D-3135, type II, and should be installed Terrazzo mix (including aggregate)
according to the manufacturer’s directions. Type II
can be featheredged and trowelled to a smooth finish Sealer
without sanding.
Before rubber terrazzo is applied, the deck surface
and 4 inches of vertical bounding surfaces against
INSULATION-TYPE UNDERLAY which the covering will abut must be cleansed by
wirebrushing or similar methods. If necessary, the
Insulation underlay may be used to prevent
deck should be faired with underlay in low spots and
condensation such as occurs on ballast tank tops and
around rivets and welds.
heat from the overheads of machinery spaces,
especially where these surfaces form the decks of After the deck has been cleaned, give it a wetting
living spaces. The magnesia insulation that is used coat of grout. Mix, apply, seal, and grind the terrazzo
should conform to MIL-D-23134. according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow
the terrazzo to dry for 72 hours before grinding it.
Surface Preparation After grinding, clean the deck with a broom or a
vacuum cleaner. This should produce a smooth,
Remove and clean the deck free of rust, dirt, old durable, nonporous surface in which the marble chips
paint, oil, and grease. Apply one coat of epoxy primer, are uniformly distributed and firmly embedded. Cover

the deck with sealer. Allow the sealer to dry, and then water, using a damp, clean mop. Rubber heel marks,
apply a second coat of sealer to complete the job. grease, and dirt may be removed with a rag moistened
with paint thinner or by using fine steel wool and soap.
NONSKID DECK TREADS After washing and after the deck is completely dry, the
tile may be buffed with a buffing machine or it may
Nonskid deck treads are similar to a coarse emery be given a coat of wax and allowed to dry without
cloth. The treads, which are approximately 6 inches polishing. A slip-resistant water emulsion type of
wide and 24 inches long, are installed at the head and floor wax is available and should be used when
foot of ladders and at each side of doors with high possible.
coarnings that are used for continuous traffic. The
treads are generally placed about 2 inches apart. If a high gloss is desired, the dried wax may be
buffed with a polishing machine. To conserve wax and
The treads, which have a pressure-sensitive reduce maintenance, a deck should be buffed several
adhesive backing, are cut from rolls or ordered in times before it is rewaxed. The deck may only require
boxes of 50 each. The comers of the treads should be rewaxing in the traffic lanes once a week. If dirty spots
rounded before installation. Nonskid deck treads may are wiped up promptly with a damp rag and the areas
be installed over finish paint or primers and over deck are immediately repolished, a complete refinishing
tile, provided the surface is free of grease, oil, floor job may be deferred for a long time.
wax, and dirt or dust. If nonskid deck treads are
applied to unpainted steel decks, all dirt, rust, and Do not apply lacquer, plastic, or other hard
foreign matter must be removed by wire brushing. The finishes to deck coverings. These finishes tend to
installation of these treads over a poorly prepared steel become yellow and to wear off in traffic.
deck can result in severe deterioration of the deck. The most painstaking and careful maintenance of
After the nonskid deck treads are installed, they deck coverings may be wasted through careless
should be rolled with a weighted roller. The edges treatment. The legs of furniture, especially chairs and
must then be sealed with an approved beading sealer. other movable pieces, should be properly fitted with
rubber tips to prevent scratching and denting of the
MAINTENANCE OF DECK COVERINGS deck covering. Nonslip rubber tips are available.
Heavy objects should not be dragged across resilient
Deck coverings should not be washed more often deck coverings unless they are protected. Also, deck
than necessary. coverings should be protected with cover cloths and
scrap materials during painting and during shipyard
When necessary, they should be mopped with a overhauls.
damp mop, using a synthetic detergent solution. Two
tablespoons of cleaner per gallon of warm potable
water is recommended. Deck coverings should not be
flooded with detergent solution; only a limited
quantity of solution should be used. Using excessive
With the knowledge gained on emergency repairs
quantities of water or detergent solution is damaging
of small boats and the assistance of experienced
to the deck covering and may cause the covering to
personnel, you should be able to keep your craft
come loose from the deck.
operational until permanent repairs can be made. And
Deck coverings should not be cleaned with strong if the need arises, the repair or replacement of the
alkaline soaps, abrasive cleaning powders, or salt various types of deck coverings may be made,
water. All water, cleaning compounds, and dirt should provided that the proper materials and equipment are
be removed and the deck rinsed with clean, fresh available to complete the job.




Upon completion of this chapter; you will be able to do the following:

Describe the characteristics and use of some special tools used by Hull
Technicians in the performance of their duties.
Point out the features, purpose, and techniques of using calipers, torque
wrenches, gauges, and squares.
Describe the setup, operation, and maintenance of various portable shop
tools and machine power tools, and identify some of the safety precautions
to observe when using them.
Describe the construction and safety devices of compressed gas cylinders and
the safety precautions to observe when handling them.
Identify the color codes, test and repair procedures, and handling and
stowage requirements of compressed gas cylinders.

INTRODUCTION rather than repeat, the information in Use and Care of

Hand Tools and Measuring Tools, NAVEDTRA
Tools are designed to make a job easier and enable 12085, and the manufacturer's operating manual. You
you to work more efficiently. Regardless of the type should qualify on each piece of equipment in your
of work to be done, Hull Maintenance Technicians specific work center according to the manufacturer’s
must have, choose, and use the correct tools to do their technical manual and any locally written instruction
work quickly, accurately, and safely. Without the prior to the setup and operation of any tool or
proper tools and the knowledge of how to use them, equipment.
they waste time, reduce their efficiency, and may even As a HT, you will be required to use many
injure themselves or cause others to be injured. different handtools and instruments. Each tool does a
This chapter explains the specific purposes, specific job. To become a skilled craftsman, you
correct use, and proper care of some of the specialty should learn what each tool can do and select the
tools you may use, such as portable shop tools, proper tool for the job. The proper use and care of tools
machine tools, compressed gas cylinders pneumatic enable you to turn out quality work and help you
tools, portable power tools, and some installed shop develop safe work habits.
equipment. The various tools discussed here are by no
means all the tools that exist in this group. They are
the specialty tools you will normally find in an HT MEASURING AND MARKING TOOLS
shop. Equipment that is used only for one purpose, or
in connection with one particular skill, is covered in The measuring tools found in a shop include
the appropriate chapter or chapters of this training various types of rules, calipers, squares, and gauges.
manual. It is not the intent of this chapter to introduce They are used to measure lengths, diameters, angles,
or instruct you on the use of every tool or piece of and radii. Use and Care of Hand Tools and Measur-
equipment you may encounter in the workshop. The ing Tools, NAVEDTRA 12085, and Machinery
material in this chapter is intended to supplement, Repairman, NAVEDTRA 12204-A, contain more

information on measuring and marking tools. In this Manufacturers’ and technical manuals generally
section we will cover the use of specialty measuring specify the amount of torque to be applied. To assure
devices such as torque wrenches, calipers, feeler getting the correct amount of torque on the fasteners,
gauges, metal gauges, and squares. the wrench must be used properly according to manu-
facturers’ instructions.
TORQUE WRENCHES Use that torque wrench that will read about mid-
range for the amount of torque to be applied. BE SURE
There are times when, for engineering reasons, a THAT THE TORQUE WRENCH HAS BEEN CALI-
definite force must be applied to a nut or bolt head. In BRATED BEFORE YOU USE IT. Remember, too, that
such cases a torque wrench must be used. For example, the accuracy of torque measuring depends a lot on how
equal force must be applied to all the head bolts of an the threads are cut and the cleanliness of the threads.
engine. Otherwise, one bolt may bear the brunt of the Make sure you inspect and clean the threads. If the
force of internal combustion and ultimately cause en- manufacturer specifies a thread lubricant, it must be
gine failure. used to obtain the most accurate torque reading. When
The three most commonly used torque wrenches using the deflecting-beam or dial-indicating wrenches,
are the deflecting-beam, dial-indicating, and microme- hold the torque at the desired value until the reading is
ter-setting types (fig. 5-1). When using the deflecting steady.
beam and the dial-indicating torque wrenches, the Torque wrenches are delicate and expensive tools.
torque is read visually on a dial or scale mounted on the The following precautions should be observed when
handle of the wrench. using them:
To use the micrometer-setting torque wrench, un-
lock the grip and adjust the handle to the desired setting When using the micrometer-setting type, do
on the micrometer-type scale, then relock the grip. not move the setting handle below the lowest
Install the required socket or adapter to the square drive torque setting. However, it should be placed
of the handle. Place the wrench assembly on the nut or at its lowest setting prior to returning to stor-
bolt and pull in a clockwise direction with a smooth, age.
steady motion. (A fast or jerky motion will result in an
Do not use the torque wrench to apply greater
improperly torqued unit.) When the torque applied
amounts of torque than its rated capacity.
reaches the torque value, which is indicated on the
handle setting, a signal mechanism will automatically Do not use the torque wrench to break loose
issue an audible click, and the handle will release or bolts that have been previously tightened.
“break,” and move freely for a short distance. The
release and free travel is easily felt, so there is no doubt Do not drop the wrench. If dropped, the accu-
about when the torquing process is complete. racy will be affected.

Figure 5-1.—Torque wrenches.

Do not apply a torque wrench to a nut that has fixed measuring jaws to measure inside and outside
been tightened. Back off the nut one turn with measurements as shown in figure 5-2. Depth is meas-
a nontorque wrench and retighten to the cor- ured using a depth gauge rod.
rect torque with the indicating torque wrench. Reading the vernier dial caliper is a relatively sim-
ple and easy task involving the addition of the dial
Calibration intervals have been established reading to the main frame scale reading. It uses a dial
for all torque tools used in the Navy. marked in thousandths of an inch and a main frame scale
When a tool is calibrated by a qualified calibration marked in inches and hundred-thousandths of an inch.
activity at a shipyard, tender, or repair ship, a label As the dial is drawn across the main frame by an
showing the next calibration due date is attached to the adjustment screw, the reading is registered on the dial
handle. This date should be checked before a torque face in thousandths of an inch. Before taking your
tool is used to ensure that it is not overdue for measurement, always zero the dial caliper by aligning
calibration. the mark on the bezel when the measuring jaws are
closed. When you pass the first small numbered mark
CALIPERS on the main frame scale, simply add one hundred thou-
Calipers are precision measuring devices that sandths to the dial reading. When you pass the first large
measure length in thousandths of an inch. Calipers numbered mark on the main frame scale, add one inch
differ only in the way they are read and the types of to your dial reading. After passing the first small num-
measurements taken. The types of calipers that will be bered mark, add one inch one hundred thousandths to
discussed in this chapter are the vernier dial caliper the dial reading. Do this wherever the reading falls on
and the vernier. the scale.
Vernier Dial Calipers Vernier Caliper
Vernier dial calipers are the most common type of Vernier calipers are capable of taking measure-
caliper found in use today. They are preferred over ments to the nearest thousandths of an inch using a sta-
vernier calipers in that they are easier to read and can tionary and sliding jaw assembly as shown in figure 5-2.
measure depth. They use a double set of movable and Reading the vernier caliper is not as easy as reading the

Figure 5-2.—Vernier and vernier dial caliper.

dial caliper (refer to fig. 5-3). The main frame scale (1) importance. Some of the more important aspects of
is graduated in 0.025 thousandths of an inch. Every caliper maintenance are listed as follows:
fourth division (2) (representing a tenth of an inch) is
numbered. The vernier scale (3). on the movable jaw, is — Always store the caliper in its carrying case.
divided into 25 parts and numbered 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, and Never leave calipers on work benches, table tops, weld
25. These 25 parts are equal to 24 parts on the main booths, machinery or equipment, or other areas where
frame scale (1). The difference between the width of one the caliper could be knocked off, crushed, bent, or
of the 25 spaces on the vernier scale (3) and one of the otherwise damaged.
24 spaces on the main frame scale (1) is 1/1000 of an — Calipers should always be calibrated according
There are five steps to reading the vernier caliper to the Navy’s METCAL program before use.
as shown in figure 5-3. They are as follows: — Keep the slide and main frame clean and free
1. Read the number of whole inches on the top of dust, dirt, weld splatter, and metal chips.
scale (1) to the left of the vernier zero index (4) — Never force the slide. If the slide does not move
and record as 1.000 inch. freely, check for chips or grit on the rack and remove
2. Read the number of tenths (5) to the left of the them by cleaning.
vernier zero index (4) and record as 0.400 inch.
3. Read the number of twenty-fifths (6) between GAUGES
the tenths mark (5) and the vernier zero index
There are numerous gauges in use throughout the
(4) and record as 3 × 0.025 or 0.075 inch.
Navy today. As an HT, you will use numerous gauges
4. Read the highest line on the vernier scale (3) to perform your job. This section will discuss various
which lines up with the lines on the top scale (7) gauges that are used in drilling, tapping, welding, and
and record as 11/25 or 0.011 inch. (Remember, brazing operations.
1/25 = 0.001 inch.)
5. Add the total measurement of the 4 preceding Thickness (Feeler) Gauges
steps to find the total measured length or 1.000
+ 0.400 + 0.075 + 0.011 = 1.486 inches. Feeler gauges are used for checking and measuring
Vernier calipers only take inside and outside small openings such as root openings and narrow slots
dimensions and cannot take depth readings. found in weld fitups and braze joints. Thickness gauges
come in many shapes and sizes, as shown in figure 5-4,
Caliper Maintenance and can be made with multiple blades (usually have 2
to 26). Each blade is a specific number of thousandths
Since calipers are precision measuring instru- of an inch thick. This enables the application of one tool
ments, proper care of the caliper is of great to the measurement of a variety of thicknesses. Two or

Figure 5-3.—Reading a vernier caliper.

Figure 5-4.—Thickness (feeler) gauges.

more blades may be combined to take readings of Figure 5-5.—Screw-pitch gauges.

various thicknesses.
Screw-Pitch Gauges
Screw-pitch gauges (fig. 5-5) are made for checking
the pitch of U.S. Standard, Metric, National Form, and
V-form cut threads. You will use them to determine the
correct thread pitch of an unknown thread on a bolt,
inside a nut, or in choosing the correct tap or die for
threading stock or tapping a hole. Each thread gauge is
marked in number of threads per inch. To take a meas-
urement, simply lay the gauge on the thread. The correct
gauge will fit the thread of the bolt perfectly with no
light showing between the gauge and the threads of the
bolt. The pitch of the screw thread is the distance
between the center of one tooth to the center of the next
Drill Gauges
The twist drill and drill rod gauge has a series
of holes with size and decimal equivalents stamped
adjacent to each hole, as shown in figure 5-6. Drill
gauges use either a letter, number, decimal, or fraction Figure 5-6.—Drill gauges.

Figure 5-7.—Steel plate and sheet metal gauges and thicknesses.

to designate drill size. Some drill gauges may use a directly below that mark to get the total length of plate
combination of these designations to measure drill size. needed to manufacture a 2-inch diameter cylinder or
You will use these gauges when determining the correct 6 1/4 inches. The total length of plate needed is 6 1/4
drill size for a given tap size. inches.

Steel Plate and Sheet Metal Gauge SQUARES

Steel plate and sheet metal gauges come in various
sizes and uses, as shown in figure 5-7. You will use them Working in an HT shop, you will use a square
extensively in sheet metal and structural metal fabrica- almost everyday. Squares are versatile instruments
tion to determine metal thickness or gauge. They are that can be used to lay out lines and angles, to measure
simple to use and extremely accurate. Simply fit the distances, and for numerous other functions. There are
gauge to the plate so that the metal edge slides exactly numerous squares in use today, but only the steel
into the slot. The gauge should be snug, but do not force square and the combination square will be discussed
the gauge onto the metal. Gauge numbers are marked in this section.
on the front of the gauge with the corresponding deci-
mal reading on the back. Steel Square

CIRCUMFERENCE RULE Steel squares (fig. 5-9) are used to lay out various
angles and to check squareness or straightness of an
The circumference rule is a specialty rule that is edge or surface. They are L-shaped tools that comes in
used to figure out the total length of plate needed for 12-, 18-, and 24-inch blade length. They are marked in
manufacturing cylindrical objects. The circumference graduations of 1-16- or 1/8-inch divisions on the inside
rule looks similar to a regular steel rule but has two and outside edge. The components of the steel square
scales marked on its face as shown in figure 5-8. The are as follows:
top scale is an inch scale that is divided in sixteenths
of an inch and represents the diameter of an object. BLADE—the longer leg of the square
The bottom scale is divided in eighths of an inch and
represents the circumference of a cylinder. The back TONGUE—the shorter leg of the square
of the rule usually has formulas for calculating HEEL—the outside comer
circumferences and shows areas and tables for laying
out measurements. FACE—the inside edge of the square
Reading the circumference rule is a simple process BACK—the outside edge of the blade
that requires no special math skills. First, determine
the diameter of a cylinder in inches. Next, locate the When using a steel square to lay out angles, place
diameter on the top inch scale and read the the tongue of the square on the base line with the
measurement directly below on the circumference 12-inch mark on the vertex of the desired angle. Mark
scale to determine the total length of material needed the vertical distance for the desired angle along the
to fabricate the cylinder. blade edge of the square. Connect the vertex to the
vertical height mark with a line. Some of the more
Using figure 5-8 as a guide, let’s figure the total common angles are shown in figure 5-10.
length of plate needed to manufacture a 2-inch
diameter cylinder. Locate the diameter, or 2 inches, on Combination Square
the top inch scale, then read the circumference rule
The combination square (fig. 5-11) is a
multifunctional tool that can be used to lay out various
angles, measure height and depth, bisect a 90-degree
angle, and as a level. It consists of the following
— A 12-inch stainless steel rule (1) that is gradu-
ated in eighths, sixteenths, thirty-seconds, and sixty-
fourths of an inch. The rule is slotted to accept
Figure 5-8.—Circumference rule. individual tool heads. It can be used as a measuring

Figure 5-9.—Steel square.

Figure 5-10.—Steel square angle layout.

Figure 5-11.—Combination square.

scale by itself or with any one of the following compo-

— The center head (2), when attached to the slot-
ted rule, bisects a 90-degree angle. It is used to deter-
mine the center of a cylindrical object.
— The protractor head (3) has a level (4) and a
revolving turret (5) that is graduated in degrees from 0
to 180 or 0 to 90 in either direction. It is used to lay out
and measure angles to within one degree.
— The square head (6) has a level (7), scribe (8),
and 45- (9) and 90-degree sides (10). When it is attached
to the slotted steel rule, it can be used to lay out 45- and
90-degree angles and to check level. The square head
may also be used as a height or depth gauge.


Trammels (fig. 5-12) measure distances beyond

the range of calipers. They also can be used as calipers,
if you have the auxiliary attachments.
The basic trammel consists of two heads (trams).
One head has a device for fine adjustments. The
wooden beam must be made by the HT as it is not
provided by the manufacturer. You can attach divider
points, caliper legs, and ball points to the tram. The
ball points with holder are used for scribing or
measuring from the center of a hole. Figure 5-12.—Trammels.

Figure 5-14.—Parts of an auger bit.

Figure 5-15.—Types of screw points.

Figure 5-13.—Drill bits. The spurs function to score the outer edge of the
chip as the cutting lips chisel or cut the waste material
loose. The spurs and cutting lips must be sharp to
WOOD- AND METAL-BORING BITS produce a smooth hole.
The wood-boring bits and drills usually found in the The twist of the auger bit is responsible for remov-
HT shop are shown in figure 5-13—included are the ing waste material after being cut by the spurs and
auger bit, expansion bit, twist bit, machine spur bit, and cutting lips. It is slightly smaller in diameter than the
multispur bit. head. The twist comes in three styles—single twist with
solid center, single twist, and double twist.
The single twist with solid center clears chips
The auger bit (fig. 5-13, view A) is the most com- more rapidly, is stronger, and is more common
mon of the wood-boring bits. It should be used with a than the single or double twist.
hand brace. It consists of three parts: the head, twist, and The single twist has less tendency to bind in
shank, as shown in figure 5-14. certain materials but is more fragile than the
The screw point functions to center the bit and to single twist with solid center.
pull the bit through the stock. The three types of screw
points are coarse, medium, and fine (fig. 5-15). The The double twist produces a clean, smooth,
coarse bit is drawn through the stock faster than a fine accurate hole and bores slower than other
one, but there is more roughness because of the faster twist bits. It is the most suitable of the three to
cut. bore holes for wooden dowels.

The shank is that part of the auger bit that fits into expansive, bit (fig. 5-17). The expansion bit consists
the chuck of the brace. It has the drill size number of a screw point, the body cutting edge, and three
stamped on one of the flats of the square-tapered tang. adjustable cutter blades. The blades let you bore holes
This number represents the drill size in sixteenths of an up to 4 inches in diameter. The adjustable cutter blade
inch (fig. 5-16). For instance, if the number stamped on adjusts by either a microdial (fig. 5-17) or a simple
the flat is 12, the drill size is 12/16 inch or 3/4 inch. All screw arrangement. Make a trial cut on scrap stock
bits having a tang-type shank are numbered and sized after adjusting an expansion bit to make sure that the
in this manner. bit is cutting the exact diameter desired.
Auger bits usually come in sets containing 1/4-inch
(#4) to 1-inch (#16) bits, but they are available up to 2 TWIST BIT
inches (#32) in diameter. Many different lengths of
auger bits are available and come in three sizes. The The twist drill bit (fig. 5-13, view C) is used to bore
dowel bit is about 5 inches long. The medium bit is holes 1/2 inch and under. They work with any type of
about 8 inches long and the ship bit is from 18 to 24 drill. High-carbon or high-speed steel twist drills are
inches long. The medium bit is the length most com- used for low-speed metal boring or high-speed wood
monly used. boring. The high-speed steel drill is for high-speed
metal boring.
EXPANSION BIT Twist drills come in several styles. The styles are
Another bit designed for use with the brace and to differentiated by the shank. The part of the twist drill
bore holes larger than 7/8 inch is the expansion, or that fits into the socket, spindle, or chuck of the drill
press is known as the shank. The three most common
types of shanks are shown in figure 5-18.

Figure 5-16.—Size markings on auger bits.

Figure 5-17.—Expansion bit. Figure 5-18.—Three most common types of shanks.

Table 5-1.—Twist Drill Sizes

Twist drills have various shank types sized by frac-
tion, number, or letter. Fraction symbols give the actual
size of the drill. Sets that include sizes from 1/16 to 1/2
inch are common in the shop. Number and letter desig-
nators only identify the drill. A drill gauge or reference
chart (table 5-1) gives the actual size of the drill. Note
that the letter sizes are larger and start where the number
sizes stop. The most common type used in HT shops is
the carbon steel drill with a straight shank.
Figure 5-21.—Comparison of a twist drill for plastic and a
A drill should be reground at the first sign of dull- twist drill for metal.
ness. The increased load that dullness imposes on the
cutting edges may cause a drill to break.
Twist drills are sharpened differently for boring may fall on them. Do not place drills where they will
different materials. The two common angles are the rub against each other.
regular point (fig. 5-19) and the flat point (fig. 5-20).
The regular point has an angle of 118° and is used for MACHINE SPUR BIT
general boring, which includes wood and metal. The flat
point has an angle of 135° and is used to bore hard and The machine spur bit (fig. 5-13, view E) works
tough materials. only in a drill press. It is a high-speed, smooth-cutting
bit for boring deep, flat-bottomed holes. It has a
The general-purpose twist drill is made of high- centering point and a twist to remove waste material
speed steel. Figure 5-21 shows a typical plastic-cutting and comes in sizes ranging from 1/8 to 1/2 inch in
drill and a typical metal-cutting drill. Notice the smaller diameter.
angle on the drill used for drilling plastics.
Before putting a drill away, wipe it clean and give MULTISPUR BIT
it a light coating of oil. Do not leave drills in a place
where they may be dropped or where heavy objects The multispur bit (fig. 5-13, view F) also works
strictly in drill presses. Use it to bore flat-bottomed
holes larger than the machine spur bit and ranges in
size from 1/2 to 4 inches in diameter.
NOTE: As bit sizes increase, drill press speed


The countersink forms a seat for the head of a

flat-headed wood screw and comes in three types (fig.
Figure 5-19—Specifications for grindinga regular point 5-22). Type A is for use with a hand brace. Types B
twist drill.

Figure 5-20.—Specifications for grinding a flat point twist

drill. Figure 5-22.—Types of countersinks.

and C are used in either the hand drill, portable electric
drill, or drill press. Type B produces a rough surface
but cuts the fastest. Type C produces a smooth seat and
is the countersink of choice for finish work.
There are many types of combination counter-
sinks and counterbores, but they all perform the same
function. These tools make the pilot hole, shank
clearance, and countersink in one operation. The
combination counterbore performs the same tasks as
the combination countersink and bores a plug hole for
wooden plugs. Combination countersinks and
counterbores range in size from #6 to #12 and
accommodate wood screw sizes #5 to #14.
The particular size of wood screw each counter-
sink and counterbore accommodates determines the
size of the countersink or counterbore. Use both with
the hand drill, portable electric drill, and drill press. Figure 5-23.—Types of points on the metal-cutting chisel.

METAL-CUTTING TOOLS the job. Be sure to use a hammer that matches the
chisel; that is, the larger the chisel, the heavier the
There are many types of metal-cutting tools used hammer. A heavy chisel will absorb the blows of a
by skilled mechanics of all ratings. As you become light hammer and will do virtually no cutting. As a
better acquainted with your rating, you will probably
general rule, you should hold the chisel in your left
discover many tools that you use for cutting metal that
are not described in this chapter. In this chapter, only hand with the thumb and first finger about 1 inch from
the basic hand metal-cutting tools (chisels, hacksaws, the top. You should hold it steady but not tight. Your
and files) will be discussed due to their frequent but finger muscles should be relaxed, so if the hammer
incorrect use. strikes your hand it will permit your hand to slide
down the tool and lessen the effect of the blow. Keep
CHISELS your eyes on the cutting edge of the chisel, not on the
head, and swing the hammer in the same plane as the
Chisels are tools that can be used for chipping or body of the chisel. If you have a lot of chiseling to do,
cutting metal. They will cut any metal that is softer slide a piece of rubber hose over the chisel. This will
than the materials of which they are made. Chisels are lessen the shock to your hand.
made from a good grade tool steel and have a hardened
cutting edge and beveled head. Cold chisels are When using a chisel for chipping, always wear
classified according to the shape of their points, and goggles to protect your eyes. If other people are
the width of the cutting edge denotes their size. The working close by, see that they are protected from
most common shapes of chisels are flat (cold chisel), flying chips by erecting a screen or shield to contain
cape, round nose, and diamond point (fig. 5-23). the chips. Remember that the time to take these
precautions is before you start the job.
The type of chisel most commonly used is the flat
cold chisel that cut rivets, split nuts, chip castings, and After numerous blows to the head of a chisel, it
cut thin metal sheets. The cape chisel is used for will begin to deform. This deformation is called
special jobs like cutting keyways, narrow grooves, and mushrooming and creates a very dangerous situation.
square corners. Round-nose chisels make circular If the head of a chisel mushrooms excessively, bits of
grooves and chip inside comers with a fillet. Finally, the head will begin to fly off when struck with a
the diamond-point is used for cutting V-grooves and hammer. These small bits of metal have the force of
sharp comers. shrapnel from a hand grenade and could cause as much
As with other tools, there is a correct technique for damage. Simply keep the head of a chisel ground down
using a chisel. Select a chisel that is large enough for to remove this dangerous situation.


A tool kit for nearly every rating in the Navy is not

complete unless it contains an assortment of files.
There are a number of different types of files in
common use, and each type may range in length from
3 to 18 inches.
Files and rasps fall into the abrading tool family.
You only need the half-round file and the half-round
rasp for ordinary work. The most useful sizes are 6, 8,
and 10 inches.


Files are graded according to the degree of

fineness, and according to whether they have single-
or double-cut teeth. The difference is apparent when
you compare the files in figure 5-24, view A.
Single-cut files have rows of teeth cut parallel to
each other. These teeth are set at an angle of about 65
degrees with the center line. You will use single-cut
files for sharpening tools, finish filing, and draw
filing. They are also the best tools for smoothing the
edges of sheet metal.
Files with crisscrossed rows of teeth are double-
cut files. The double cut forms teeth that are
diamond-shaped and fast cutting. You will use double-
cut files for quick removal of metal and for rough
Files are also graded according to the spacing and
size of their teeth, or their coarseness and fineness.
Some of these grades are pictured in figure 5-24, view
B. In addition to the three grades shown, you may use
some DEAD SMOOTH files, which have very fine
teeth, and some ROUGH files with very coarse teeth.
The fineness or coarseness of file teeth is also
influenced by the length of the file. (The length of a
file is the distance from the tip to the heel, and does
not include the tang (fig. 5-24, view C). When you
have a chance, compare the actual size of the teeth of
a 6-inch, single-cut smooth file and a 12-inch, Figure 5-24.—File information.
single-cut smooth file; you will notice the 6-inch file
has more teeth per inch than the 12-inch file.
TRIANGULAR files are tapered (longitudinally)
Shapes on all three sides. They are used to file acute internal
angles and to clear out square corners. Special
Files come in different shapes. Therefore, in
triangular files are used to file saw teeth.
selecting a file for a job, the shape of the finished work
must be considered. Some of the cross-sectional MILL files are tapered in both width and
shapes are shown in figure 5-24, view D. thickness. One edge has no teeth and is known as a

safe edge. Mill files are used for smoothing lathe work
draw filing, and other fine, precision work. Mill files
are always single-cut.
FLAT files are general-purpose files and may be
either single- or double-cut. They are tapered in width
and thickness. HARD files, not shown, are somewhat
thicker than flat files. They taper slightly in thickness,
but their edges are parallel. The flat or hard files most
often used are the double-cut for rough work, and the
single-cut, smooth file for finish work.
SQUARE files are tapered on all four sides and
are used to enlarge rectangular-shaped holes and slots.
ROUND files serve the same purpose for round Figure 5-25.—Hacksaws.
openings. Small round files are often called “rattail”
The HALF-ROUND file is a general-purpose tool. length is the distance between the two pins that hold
The rounded side is used for curved surfaces and the the blade in place.
flat face on flat surfaces. When you file an inside Hacksaw blades are made of high-grade tool steel,
curve, use a round or half-round file whose curve most hardened and tempered. There are two types: the
nearly matches the curve of the work. all-hard and the flexible. All-hard blades are hardened
throughout, whereas only the teeth of the flexible
Care of Files blades are hardened. Hacksaw blades are about
one-half inch wide, have from 14 to 32 teeth per inch,
You should break in a new file carefully by using and are from 8 to 16 inches long. The blades have a
it first on brass, bronze, or smooth cast iron. Just a few hole at each end that hooks to a pin in the frame. All
of the teeth will cut at first, so use a light pressure to hacksaw frames that hold the blades either parallel or
prevent tooth breakage. Do not break in a new file by at right angles to the frame are provided with a
using it first on a narrow surface. Protect the file teeth wingnut or screw to permit tightening or removing the
by hanging your files in a rack when they are not in blade.
use, or by placing them in drawers with wooden The SET in a saw refers to how much the teeth are
partitions. Your files should not be allowed to pushed out in opposite directions from the sides of the
rust—keep them away from water and moisture. blade. The four different kinds of set are
Avoid getting the files oily. Oil causes a file to slide ALTERNATE set, DOUBLE ALTERNATE set,
across the work and prevents fast, clean cutting. Files RAKER set, and WAVE set. Three of these are shown
that you keep in your toolbox should be wrapped in in figure 5-26.
paper or cloth to protect their teeth and prevent
damage to other tools. The teeth in the alternate set are staggered, one to
the left and one to the right throughout the length of
HACKSAWS the blade. On the double alternate set blade, two

Hacksaws are used to cut metal that is too heavy

for snips or bolt cutters. Thus, metal bar stock can be
cut readily with hacksaws.
There are two parts to a hacksaw: the frame and
the blade. Common hacksaws have either an
adjustable or solid frame (fig. 5-25). Most hacksaws
found in the Navy are of the adjustable frame type.
Adjustable frames can be made to hold blades from 8
to 16 inches long, while those with solid frames take
only the length blade for which they are made. This Figure 5-26.—“Set” of hacksaw blade teeth.

adjoining teeth are staggered to the right, two to the
left, and so on. On the raker set blade, every third tooth
remains straight and the other two are set alternately.
On the wave (undulated) set blade, short sections of
teeth are bent in opposite directions.

Using Hacksaws

The hacksaw is often used improperly. Although

it can be used with limited success by an inexperienced
person, a little thought and study given to its proper
use will result in faster and better work and less dulling
and breaking of blades.
Good work with a hacksaw depends not only upon
the proper use of the saw, but also upon the proper
selection of the blades for the work to be done. Figure
5-27 will help you select the proper blade to use when
sawing metal with a hacksaw. Coarse blades with
fewer teeth per inch cut faster and are less liable to Figure 5-28.—Installing a hacksaw blade.
choke up with chips. However, finer blades with more
teeth per inch are necessary when thin sections are
being cut. The selection should be made so that, as from the handle of the hacksaw (hand hacksaws cut on
each tooth starts its cut, the tooth ahead of it will still the push stroke.) Tighten the wingnut so that the blade
be cutting. is definitely under tension. This helps make straight
To make the cut, first install the blade in the cuts.
hacksaw frame (fig. 5-28) so that the teeth point away Place the material to be cut in a vise. A minimum
of overhang will reduce vibration, give a better cut,
and lengthen the life of the blade. Have the layout line
outside of the vise jaw so that the line is visible while
you work.
When cutting, apply pressure on the forward
stroke, which is the cutting stroke, but not on the return
stroke. From 40 to 50 strokes per minute is the usual
speed. Long, slow, steady strokes are preferred.
For long cuts (fig. 5-29) rotate the blade in the
frame so that the length of the cut is not limited by the
depth of the frame. Hold the work with the layout line
close to the vise jaws, raising the work in the vise as
the sawing proceeds.

Figure 5-27.—Selecting the proper hacksaw blade. Figure 5-29.—Making a long cut near the edge of stock.

Saw thin metal as shown in figure 5-30. Notice the C-clamp when necessary. The wood block helps
long angle at which the blade enters the saw groove support the blade and produces a smoother cut. Using
(kerf). This permits several teeth to be cutting at the the wood only in back of the metal permits the layout
same time. lines to be seen.
Metal that is too thin to be held, as shown in figure
Hacksaw Safety
5-31, can be placed between blocks of wood, as shown
in figure 5-3 1. The wood provides support for several The main danger in using hacksaws is injury to
teeth as they are cutting. Without the wood, as shown your hand if the blade breaks. The blade will break if
in view B of figure 5-31, teeth will be broken due to too much pressure is applied, when the saw is twisted,
excessive vibration of the stock and because when the cutting speed is too fast, or when the blade
individual teeth have to absorb the full power of the becomes loose in the frame. Additionally, if the work
stroke. is not tight in the vise, it will sometimes slip, twisting
Cut thin metal with layout lines on the face by the blade enough to break it.
using a piece of wood behind it (fig. 5-32). Hold the
wood and the metal in the jaws of the vise, using a

You will be using portable power drills, hammers,

and grinders in the shop and out on the job. You should
be thoroughly familiar with the operation and care of
these tools and with applicable safety precautions.
Individual electrically powered hand tools are not
covered in this chapter. However, it is important that
you understand some important safety and operating
procedures for these tools. Only the most common
portable pneumatic power tools will be covered in this
Figure 5-30.—Gutting thin metal with a hacksaw.
Most portable power tools are driven by
electricity. However, the portable power tools that you
use may be powered by electric motors or by air
(pneumatic) motors. Whether electric powered or air
powered, the tools and the procedures for using them
are basically the same. Maintenance information
about portable power tools can be found in the
equipment owner’ s manual.

Figure 5-31.—Cutting thin metal between two wooden blocks. ELECTRICAL POWER TOOLS

Several safety and operating precautions must be

observed when you use electrical tools. The most
important of these relate to electrical shock. Electrical
tools are made so all current-carrying parts, except
filters, are insulated from housings and handles. The
tools are laboratory tested to ensure they are safe to
use when new. However, tool abuse (overload or
dropping) could cause a short and you could receive
an electrical shock. You can reduce the electrical
shock hazard by ensuring that there is a grounding
wire between the tool housing and a positive ground.
Figure 5-32.—Gutting thin metal using wood block with All electrically powered tools must have a
layout lines. three-wire cord and be double-insulated. All

electrically powered hand tools are required to be should be checked for real or potential damage
stored in the electrical tool issue room so that they may before each use.
be checked by an electrician prior to issue. Never use
a portable electric tool that has not been electrically Ensure work is properly secured prior to op-
safety checked by shipboard electricians. Always erating portable equipment.
follow approved checkout procedures for electrical
tools. A 120-volt shock can kill you. PNEUMATIC POWER TOOLS
Many portable tool housings are made of special This section deals with pneumatic drills and
high-impact plastic that is resistant to damage. Plastic pneumatic grinders since these are probably the most
reduces the electrical shock hazard, but it does not widely used portable power tools. You will be
prevent shock hazards completely. To eliminate this
required to maintain the portable pneumatic tools that
shock hazard when using electrically powered tools,
you will be using.
you should wear approved electrical rubber gloves
(issued with the tool by the electrician). These rubber Since pneumatic tools use compressed air, all
gloves should be protected with a pair of leather low-pressure compressed air systems should have a
gloves over them. Other safety precautions are listed filter, regulator, and lubricator assembly installed at
as follows: the outlet. This assembly will ensure delivery of clean,
regulated, mist-lubricated compressed air for the
When using an electric tool, make sure it is operation of pneumatic tools. The pressure must not
properly grounded. Use only three-wire exceed 90 psi for any pneumatic tool. CAUTION:
grounded cords and plugs. Never point the air hose at another person.
When an extension cord must be used in addi- Before operating a pneumatic drill, inspect the air
tion to the cord on an electric tool, the exten- hose and check for any leaks and damage. Blow air
sion cord must not be energized when the tool through the air hose to free it of foreign material before
plug is inserted in or removed from the exten- connecting it to the drill. Keep the air hoses clean and
sion cord. Extension cords also must have free from excessive amounts of lubricants.
three-wire cords and grounded plugs. Exten-
The heavy duty pneumatic drill, shown in view A
sion cords may only be 25 feet in length for
shipboard use. of figure 5-33, is reversible. Its speed can be closely
controlled by the throttle valve located in the handle.
All portable electrical tools and extension The variable speed feature of this drill makes it
cords require a periodic safety check for shorts particularly useful for heavy duty drilling in places
or grounds. The tool housing, cord, and plug that are hard to reach.

Figure 5-33.—Heavy duty pneumatic drill and stand.

Another feature of this drill is a feed screw that
can be used with a special type of drill stand called an
“old man.” This drill stand is shown in view B of figure
5-33. To drill a hole using the “old man,” first place
the twist drill in the socket. Adjust the feed screw in
the machine to its lowest position and place the point
of the feed screw in one of the indentations in the arm.
Drill the hole to the required depth. Watch the drill;
when it begins to come through. decrease the speed.
Hold the drill motor up by hand so that it will not drop
onto the work.
The pneumatic grinder, shown in figure 5-34,
operates on the same basic principle as the pneumatic
drill. It can be equipped with either a grinding wheel
or a wire bristle wheel. After attaching the appropriate
wheel, perform the preliminary steps required to
connect the pneumatic grinder. Always run this
machine so that the grinding surface of the wheel is
square with the surface of the material being ground.
Do not grind soft nonferrous metals, such as aluminum
or brass, on a wheel that is designed for carbon and
alloy steels. A silicon carbide abrasive wheel is
suitable for grinding soft nonferrous metals,
nonmetallic materials, and cemented carbides. Make
sure that the rpm rating on the wheel is greater than
that of the grinder. If the rpm rating of the grinder is
greater than the wheel, the wheel stands a good chance
of shattering and causing personnel injury from flying
In recent years, we have started using several new
types of pneumatic tools that are used for the setting
of rivets and fasteners. As a result, rivets and fasteners
can now be set easier and faster. The tools shown in
figure 5-35 are relatively easy to operate, and you need
to remember only the few simple precautions
described in the following paragraphs.
Pneumatic tools must have thorough lubrication.
The moving parts of a pneumatic tool are very closely Figure 5-35.—Pneumatic rivet setting tools.

Figure 5-34.—Sectional view of a pneumatic grinder.

fitted. If proper lubrication is neglected, they wear THREAD-CUTTING TOOLS
rapidly and fail within a short time.
Internal threads are cut with taps and tap
Valves and pistons on pneumatic hammers require wrenches. External threads are cut with dies and die
a light machine oil. Since the compressed air comes stocks. All threads are not alike. They must be
directly in contact with these parts, it has a tendency designed, selected, and cut to fit the job. As an HT,
to drive the lubricant out through the exhaust. you will be concerned with two types of threads:
Therefore, when working steadily with any pneumatic machine threads and pipe threads.
tool, you should regularly check the lubricator. Make
certain there is plenty of lubricant, and empty the filter Dies and taps for cutting machine threads are now
assembly when needed. On low-pressure compressed made according to three basic sets of standards:
air systems that do not have the filter, regulator, and American National, American Standard, and Unified
lubricator assembly, you should disconnect the air Thread Standard (also referred to as “the standard”).
hose every hour or so and squirt a few drops of light Knowing just what these standards are is important.
oil into the air hose connection. Heavy oil will cause The AMERICAN NATIONAL standards were
precision parts to clog up and fail. If this happens, you widely used for many years. There are two series of
will have to clean your tool in cleaning solvent to American National machine threads with which you
loosen the gummy substance. Then blow out the tool will be concerned. These are the American National
with air, lubricate it with a light oil, and go back to Fine (NF) and the American National Coarse (NC)
work. series. The form of the thread is the same for both
National Fine and National Coarse; the difference is
Keep your pneumatic tools clean and lubricated, in the pitch or number of threads to the inch.
and you will have fewer operating troubles.
The second set of standards for threads is the
When using portable pneumatic power tools, there AMERICAN STANDARD. The American Standard
are certain safety precautions that you must observe. threads for machine screws are based on the older
Always wear your goggles and hearing pro- American National Standard. The two sets of
tection when working with these tools. standards are not identical, but some of the American
Standard threads are identified by the old American
Take care not to allow any of these tools to run National designation. For example, the American
out of hand. The pneumatic grinder especially Standard Fine series is designated by NF and the
will want to “walk” away from the point you American Standard Coarse series by NC.
want to grind. The third set of standards is the UNIFIED
Always stand so that your feet won’t slip THREAD STANDARD. This standard was agreed to
while you are working. Make sure that you are by the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom
in 1948. It is expected that the Unified Thread
properly balanced.
Standard will become the generally accepted standard
Apply the grinding wheel to the work with for machine threads, replacing the American Standard
gentle pressure. Sudden forcing may cause the and the American National.
wheel to shatter. As you complete the work, Many of the machine threads using these three
ease up on the pressure. basic standards are interchangeable; they are either
identical or very similar in general form. The major
Be careful not to allow the air hose to become
differences between the Unified Thread Standard and
the earlier standards are in the application of
Pneumatic grinders and sanders turn at a high allowances, the variation of tolerance with size, the
rpm. Use only the approved type of grinding amount of pitch diameter tolerance, and the
wheel or disk. The maximum operating rpm is designation of the threads. In general, the Unified
shown on the side of the wheel or disk. Re- Thread Standard provides more classes of fit than did
member the rpm rate of the wheel must be the earlier standards.
higher than the rpm rate of the grinder or Pipe taps and dies differ from machine taps and
sander. Using a wheel with a lower rpm rate dies in that most pipe threads are tapered to provide
than the tool can cause the wheel to shatter. an airtight and liquid-tight seal. Pipe diameters are

measured as inside diameters; therefore, the wall
thickness of the pipe must be taken into consideration.
This means the pipe taps and dies are larger in
diameter than the machine taps and dies. In other
words, a 1/2-inch pipe tap or die is larger in diameter
than a 1/2-inch machine tap or die.
The NPT, which formerly stood for National Pipe
Thread, is still used as a carryover and now refers to the
new name for the same thread, American Standard
Taper Pipe Threads. The standard taper of pipe threads
is three-fourths inch per foot. The number of threads per
inch varies according to the size of pipe as follows:
l/16- and 1/8-inch pipe have 27 threads per
1/4- and 3/8-inch pipe have 18 threads per
1/2- and 3/4-inch pipe have 14 threads per
1-, 1 1/4-, 1 1/2-, and 2-inch pipe have 11 1/2
threads per inch
2 1/2-inch pipe and pipe larger than 2 1/2
inches have 8 threads per inch
Hand pipe-threading tools are supplied by the
Navy to cut external threads up to 4 inches and internal
threads up to 4 inches. However, hand pipe-threading
tools that will cut pipe up to 12 inches can be
requisitioned through the supply department. Pipe
over 3 inches in diameter is normally joined by
oxyacetylene welding, arc welding, or by brazing with
silver-base or copper-base alloys. Figure 5-36.—Types of common taps.

This section of the chapter contains instructions

on how to select and use the taps and drills for the The taper (starting) hand tap has a chamfer length
various standard thread sizes. You will also find a of 8 to 10 threads. These taps are used when starting
detailed explanation of how to use taper, plug, and a tapping operation and when tapping through holes.
bottoming taps, how to cut machine threads with taps
Plug hand taps have a chamfer length of 3 to 5
and dies, and how to lubricate the work.
threads and are designed for use after the taper tap.

TAPS AND DIES Bottoming hand taps are used for threading the
bottom of a blind hole. They have a very short chamfer
Taps and dies are used to cut threads in metal, length of only 1 to 1 1/2 threads for this purpose. This
plastics, or hard rubber. The taps are used for cutting tap is always used after the plug tap has already been
internal threads, and the dies are used to cut external used. Both the taper and plug taps should precede the
threads. There are many different types of taps. use of the bottoming hand tap.
However, the most common are the taper, plug, Pipe taps are used for pipe fittings and other places
bottoming, and pipe taps as shown in figure 5-36. where extremely tight fits are necessary.

The tap diameter, from end to end of threaded 5-37) will cut American Pipe Thread only. It comes in
portion, increases at the rate of 3/4 inch per foot. All a variety of sizes for cutting threads on pipe with
the threads on this tap do the cutting, as compared to diameters of 1/8 inch to 2 inches.
the straight taps where only the nonchamfered portion A rethreading die as shown (fig. 5-37) is used
does the cutting. principally for dressing over bruised or rusty threads
Dies are made in several different shapes and are on screws or bolts. It is available in a variety of sizes
of the solid or adjustable type. The square pipe die (fig. for rethreading American Standard Coarse and Fine
threads. These dies are usually hexagon in shape and
can be turned with a socket, box, open-end, or any
wrench that will fit. Rethreading dies are available in
sets of 6, 10, 14, and 28 assorted sizes in a case.
Round split adjustable dies (fig. 5-38) are called
“button” dies and can be used in either hand diestocks
or machine holders. The adjustment in the screw-adjust-
ing type is made by a fine-pitch screw that forces the
sides of the die apart or allows them to spring together.
The adjustment in the open adjusting types is made by
three screws in the holder, one for expanding and two
for compressing the dies. Round split adjustable dies are
available in a variety of sizes to cut American Standard
Coarse and Fine threads, special form threads, and the
Figure 5-37.—Types of solid dies. standard sizes of threads that are used in Britain and
other European countries. For hand threading, these

Figure 5-38.—Types of adjustable dies.

dies are held in diestocks, as shown in figure 5-39. One Two-piece rectangular pipe dies (fig. 5-38)
type of die stock has three pointed screws that will hold are available to cut American Standard Pipe threads.
round dies of any construction, although it is made They are held in ordinary or ratchet-type diestocks (fig.
specifically for open adjusting-type dies. 5-40). The jaws of the dies are adjusted by setscrews.
Two-piece collet dies (fig. 5-38) are used with a An adjustable guide keeps the pipe in alignment with
collet cap (fig. 5-39) and collet guide. The die halves respect to the dies. The smooth jaws of the guide are
are placed in the cap slot and held in place by the guide adjusted by a cam plate; a thumbscrew locks the jaws
that screws into the underside of the cap. The die is firmly in the desired position.
adjusted by setscrews at both ends of the internal slot.
This type of adjustable die is issued in various sizes to Threading sets are available in many different com-
cover the cutting range of American Standard Coarse, binations of taps and dies, together with diestocks, tap
Fine, and special form threads. Diestocks to hold the wrenches, guides, and necessary screwdrivers and
dies come in three different sizes. wrenches to loosen and tighten adjusting screws and

Figure 5-39.—Diestocks, diecollet, and tap wrenches.

Figure 5-40.—Adjustable die guide and ratchet diestocks.

bolts. Figure 5-41 shows typical threading sets for pipe,
bolts. and screws.
Never attempt to sharpen taps or dies. Sharpening
of taps and dies involves several highly precise cutting
processes, which involve the thread characteristics and
chamfer. These sharpening procedures must be done by
experienced personnel to maintain the accuracy and the
cutting effectiveness of taps and dies.
Keep taps and dies clean and well oiled when not
in use. Store them so that they do not contact each other
or other tools. For long periods of storage, coat taps and
dies with a rust preventive compound, place in individ-
ual or standard threading set boxes, and store in a dry


Thread chasers are threading tools that have several Figure 5-42.—Thread chasers.
teeth and are used to rethread (chase) damaged external
or internal threads, as shown in figure 5-42. These tools
are available to chase standard threads. The internal THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING
thread chaser has its cutting teeth located on a side face.
The external thread chaser has its cutting teeth on the Threads are helical ridges cut into screws, nuts,
end of the shaft. The handle end of the tool shaft tapers bolts, or the walls of a hole, so that the action of turning
to a point. the screw, nut, or bolt gives it endwise as well as rotary
motion. Many thread types exist. These types include
bolt threads, machine screw threads, and pipe threads.
Before we proceed with descriptions of thread-cutting
procedures, we must become familiar with the
terminology to be used.

Thread Terminology

Refer to figure 5-43 and note that the outside

diameter of a thread is known as the MAJOR

Figure 5-41.—Threading sets. Figure 5-43.—Thread terminology.

Figure 5-46.—Oversize drilled hole for tapping.

percent of the difference between the major and minor

diameters, subtracted from the major diameter.
When the tap hole is the right size, it is a little
larger than the root diameter of the tap, as shown in
figure 5-45. The tap will cut a thread in the work which
Figure 5-44.—Tap drill size determination. is only 75 percent as deep as the thread on the tap. The
other 25 percent of the depth of thread on the tap
DIAMETER. The diameter across the roots of the provides clearance between the tap hole and the root
thread is called the MINOR DIAMETER. The PITCH diameter of the tap (see fig. 5-45). This makes tapping
is defined as the distance from any point on the thread easier.
of a screw to the corresponding point on an adjacent If the tap drill selected is oversize, the tap hole will
thread. It is usually measured from crest to crest and be oversize, and the tap can cut only shallow threads
is expressed by a specific quantity of threads per inch. in the work, as shown in figure 5-46. With less than a
Tap Drill Determination full 75 percent depth of thread, stud or capscrew
threads usually strip.
If a threaded hole is to be made in a piece of metal, If the tap drill selected is undersize, the tap hole
a hole of suitable size must first be drilled. The hole will be undersize, being perhaps equal to the root
must be somewhat smaller than the size of the bolt to diameter of the tap, as shown in figure 5-47. Then
be screwed into it. there will be no clearance, and the tap will turn hard,
How do you determine how much smaller to drill tear the threads, and probably break.
this hole? Figure 5-44 shows the system used for The best method to determine the exact size of tap
figuring this. The resultant thread is known as a “75 drill to use is to refer to table 5-2. A chart similar to
percent thread” because the diameter of the hole is 75 this generally is included with a set of taps and dies.

Figure 5-45.—Proper size drilled hole for tapping. Figure 5-47.—Undersize drilled hole for tapping.

Table 5-2.—American National Form Threads

Figure 5-50.—Tapping a blind hole with a taper tap.

immediately. Back the tap up a quarter turn to break

Figure 5-48.—Using a square to ascertain a tap is square with the chips, clean them out of the flutes with a wire (as
the work.
shown in fig. 5-49), add some more lubricant, and
continue tapping. When the tap has cut threads
through the hole, the tap will turn with no resistance.
Cutting Machine Threads With Taps
To tap a blind hole, start with the taper tap. For a
Mineral lard oil, applied with a small brush, is blind hole you will need all three types—the taper,
highly recommended as a lubricant when tapping in plug, and bottoming taps. Be sure they are the size and
steel. When using this lubricant, tighten the tap in the thread series you need, and that the tap hole is the size
tap wrench and apply the lubricant to the tap. Start the called for by the working drawing and table 5-2.
tap carefully with its axis on the center line of the hole. Begin with the taper tap. Handle it as described
The tap must be square with the surface of the work, earlier. Figure 5-50, view A, shows the taper tap just
as shown in figure 5-48. starting to cut. In figure 5-50, view B, it has cut a little
To continue tapping, turn the tap forward two farther. In figure 5-50, view C, it has bottomed in the
quarter turns, back it up a quarter turn to break the hole after having cut several full threads near the top
chips, and then turn forward again to take up the slack. of the hole. This completes the work to be done with
Continue this sequence until the required threads are the taper tap.
cut. After you cut for the first 2 or 3 full turns, you no In figure 5-51, view A, the plug tap has entered
longer have to exert downward pressure on the the few full threads cut by the taper tap. In figure 5-51,
wrench. You can tell by the feel that the tap is cutting view B, it has continued these threads a little farther
as you turn it. Don't permit chips to clog the flutes or down into the hole. In figure 5-51, view C, it has
they will prevent the tap from turning. When the tap bottomed in the hole. This is all the work that you can
won’t turn and you notice a springy feeling, stop trying do with the plug tap. It has cut full threads about
halfway down the tap hole before bottoming.

Figure 5-49.—Using a wire to clear chips from the flute of a

tap. Figure 5-51.—Tapping a blind hole with a plug tap.

In figure 5-52, the bottoming tap has been substi- SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
tuted for the plug tap. In figure 5-52, view A, it has been
run down the full threads cut by the plug tap and is ready Before using any machine tool, you must be famil-
to cut more full threads. In figure 5-52, view B, it has iar with all safety precautions pertaining to its operation.
cut a few more threads, and in figure 5-52, view C, it Carelessness around any moving machinery is ex-
has bottomed in the hole. The blind hole has now been tremely dangerous. When moving machinery is
completely tapped. equipped with sharp cutting tools, the dangers are
Because these threads are being tapped in a blind greatly increased. The following list includes some of
hole, you must remove chips differently. To remove the more general safety precautions for machine tools.
chips, back the tap completely out of the hole very Specific safety precautions should be posted in plain
frequently, invert the stock, if possible, and jar out the sight by every machine.
chips or work them out of the hole with a wire while the
stock is in the inverted position. Do not lean against any machine that is in
motion. Keep clear of all gears, belts, and
Chip removal in tapping blind holes is much more other moving parts. Never remove the guards
difficult to do and is very important because chips will from any part of an operating machine.
fal1 ahead of the tap through the flutes and accumulate
in the bottom of the blind hole. Until these chips are Never start a machine unless you are thor-
removed, none of the three taps can complete its work. oughly familiar with its operation.
In tapping blind holes, alternate with tapping and chip
Do not attempt to clean, adjust, or repair a
removal until each of the three taps bottom in the blind machine while it is in motion. NEVER attempt
hole. to clean running gears.
When you have finished using the three taps, brush
the chips out of their teeth, oil them well with lubricat- PROTECT YOUR EYES. Do not hold your
ing oil, wipe off the surplus oil, and replace them in the head too close to the cutting tool. Flying bits
threading set. of metal or scale may get into your eyes.
Always wear goggles when there is any dan-
ger of flying particles getting in your eyes—
INSTALLED MACHINE TOOLS for example, when using a grinding or drilling
The Navy furnishes modern equipment to help PROTECT YOUR HEARING. Always wear
you perform your duties. This section introduces you appropriate hearing protection. Either audio
to some of the most common machine tools found in headsets or ear plugs will filter the noise from
workshops that you should be familiar with. A running machinery. Prolonged exposure may
machine tool is a power-driven machine that holds the damage your hearing.
material and cutting tool and brings them together so
the material is drilled, cut, shaved, or ground. Keep your fingers away from the cutting
edges when the machine is in operation. Oth-
The machine tools described in this chapter are erwise, you could lose some fingers.
found in most well-equipped shops. Other machine
tools for specific types of work will be described in their Do not wear gloves or loosely hanging
clothes. They can be caught by moving parts
appropriate chapter of this training manual. of the shop machinery and cause serious inju-
ries. Keep your sleeves rolled up tightly above
the elbows. Do not wear neckties or loose
In all machine work, stress SAFETY first,
ACCURACY second, and SPEED last. Ex-
cessive speed is both dangerous and ineffi-


Figure 5-52.—Finish tapping a blind hole with a bottoming Metal-cutting saws are standard equipment in re-
tap. pair facilities. They are used for nonprecision cutting of

Figure 5-53.—Power hacksaw.

various metals and can cut any reasonable size or shape. similar applications. Metal-cutting saws can cut brass,
In the pipe shop, bandsaws are used to cut pipe and bronze, aluminum, Monel, and thin sections of carbon
tubing for various types and sizes at different angles. In steel casting and other types of metals.
the shipfitter shop, metal-cutting saws are used to cut
angle iron, pipe, zincs, bar stock, and numerous other Since the metal-cutting saw cuts materials of
stock. In the carpenter shop, saws are used to cut varying thickness, toughness, and hardness, you must
wooden patterns, miter frames, stock, and for other select the proper blade for each job. Blade design and

uses are presented later in this chapter to help you particular job is determined by the size and material
understand the differences in blades. composition of the section and the material to be cut.
Use coarse pitch teeth for wide, heavy sections to
POWER HACKSAWS provide ample chip clearance. For thinner sections,
use a blade with a pitch that will keep two or more
The power hacksaw (fig. 5-53) is found in all teeth in contact with the work so that the teeth will not
except the smallest shops. It is used to cut bar stock, straddle the work and strip the teeth. In general, you
pipe, tubing, or other metal stock. It consists of a base, should select blades according to the following
a mechanism for causing the saw frame to reciprocate, information:
and a clamping vise for holding the stock while it is
being sawed. There are two types of power hacksaws: Coarse (4 teeth per inch) for soft steel, cast
the direct mechanical drive and the hydraulic drive. iron, and bronze
The power hacksaw shown in figure 5-53 has a
capacity of 4" × 4". This means it can handle material Regular (6 to 8 teeth per inch) for annealed
up to 4 inches wide and 4 inches high. high-carbon steel and high-speed steel

A power hacksaw will have one of three typos of Medium (10 teeth per inch) for solid brass
feed mechanisms: stock, iron pipe, and heavy tubing

Mechanical feed, which ranges from 0.001 to Fine (14 teeth per inch) for thin tubing and
0.025 inch per stroke, depending upon the sheet metals
class and type of material being cut
Hydraulic feed, which normally exerts a con- Speed for hacksaws is stated in strokes-per-minute,
stant pressure, but is designed so that the feed counting only those strokes that cause the blade to make
stops automatically at hard spots to decrease a cut on the stock are counted. A gear shift lever is used
the pressure on the saw until the hard spot has to change speeds. There may be a card attached to or
been cut through. near the saw giving recommended speeds for cutting
Gravity feed, in which weights are placed on various metals. However, you may use the following
the saw frame and shifted to give more or less speeds:
pressure of the saw blade against the material — Cold-rolled or machine steel, brass, and soft
being cut. metals—136 strokes per minute.
All three types of feed mechanisms lift the blade — Alloy steel, annealed tool steel, and cast iron—
clear of the work during the return stroke. 90 strokes per minute.
Hacksaw Blades — High-speed steel, unannealed tool steel, and
stainless steel—60 strokes per minute.
The blade shown in figure 5-54 is especially
designed for use with the power hacksaw. It is made Coolants
with a tough alloy steel back and high-speed steel
You should use a coolant for most power hacksaw-
teeth. This combination gives both a strong blade and
ing operations. (Cast iron should be dry when it is cut.)
a cutting edge suitable for high-speed sawing.
The coolant prevents overheating of the blade and stock
These blades vary as to the pitch of the teeth along with increasing the cutting rate. A soluble oil
(number of teeth per inch). The correct pitch for a solution with a mixture of the oil and water will be
suitable for most sawing operations. The normal mix-
ture for soluble oil is 40 parts water to 1 part oil. You
also may use a synthetic coolant.


Metal-cutting bandsaw machines are standard

Figure 5-54.—Power hacksaw blade. equipment on all repair ships and tenders. These

machines can be used for nonprecision cutting similar
to that performed by power hacksaws. Some types can
also be used for precision cutting, filing, and polishing.
A bandsaw machine is more flexible for straight cutting
than a power hacksaw in that it can cut objects of any
reasonable size and of regular and irregular shapes. A
power hacksaw has a more limited capacity; it can only
cut pieces with regular shapes. Also, the bandsaw cuts
much faster than the hacksaw because the cutting action
of the blade is continuous.
Figure 5-55 shows a tiltable blade bandsaw. The
blade may be set either upright or at any angle up to 45
degrees from the vertical. The work is held stationary
in a vise and the blade is moved into the work.
Figure 5-56 shows a tiltable table bandsaw. On the
type shown, you should feed work either manually or
by power to the blade, which runs in a fixed position.
During recent years, the tiltable table bandsaw has been
installed in most repair shops on repair ships and ten-
A third type of bandsaw is designed for heavier Figure 5-56.—Tiltable table-type (contour) metal-cutting
work and has neither a tiltable blade nor a tiltable table. bandsaw.
You will find this type on some ships.
Many of the new models, such as the one shown in
figure 5-56, also have a job selector mounted on the appear in the window, read in conjuction with stationary
machine. The names of various materials are inscribed entries on the dial face, give the correct saw pitch, set
on the outer ring of the selector. This ring is movable and temper, saw velocity, and power feed pressure
and can be positioned so that the name of any specific needed to cut that particular material.
material can be brought into alignment with the window Another type of metal-cutting bandsaw is shown in
slot at the bottom of the dial. The numbers or letters that figure 5-57. This horizontal band cutoff saw is being
used in shops on some ships to replace the reciprocat-
ing-type power hacksaw. The continuous cutting action
of the blade provides greater speed, accuracy, and ver-

Figure 5-55.—Tiltable blade metal-cutting bandsaw. Figure 5-57.—Horizontal band cutoff saw.

Good results from the use of any metal-cutting GAUGE: The thickness of a blade. This measure-
bandsaw depends upon the careful choice of a blade. ment is expressed in thousandths of an inch. Saw
Tooth pitch should be considered in relation to the bands come in three gauges—0.025, 0.032, and 0.035
hardness and toughness of the material being worked, inch.
and the thickness of the workpiece. At least two teeth
SET: The bend or spread given to the teeth to
should be in contact with the work at all times during
provide clearance for the body of the blade when you
the cutting operation. When you cut thick material,
make a cut.
select a tooth pitch that allows the smallest possible
number of teeth to be in contact with the material. SIDE CLEARANCE: The difference between the
More teeth in contact means that a greater feed dimension of the gauge of the blade and the set of the
pressure is required to force them into the material. teeth. Side clearance provides running room for the
Excessive feed pressure will cause the cut to be off the body of the blade in the kerf or cut. Without side
mark. clearance, the saw band will bind in the kerf.
SET PATTERN: One of three distinct patterns
Saw Bands (raker, wave, and straight) in which teeth are set. The
raker set pattern is used to cut solid cross-section
A saw band has the following characteristics, work. The wave set pattern is used to cut hollow
which are illustrated in figure 5-58. materials, such as pipes and tubing. The straight set
PITCH: The number of teeth per linear inch. Every pattern is not used to any great extent to cut metal.
saw blade has a specific even number of teeth per TEMPER: The degree of hardness of the teeth,
linear inch. Normally this is from 6 to 32 teeth per inch indicated by the letters A and B, with temper A being
of blade. the harder. The A or B designation will only be found
WIDTH: The distance across the flat surface of the on the container the blade was shipped in. Temper A
saw band (back to the tip of the tooth). The width saw blades are used for practically all bandsaw
measurement is always expressed in inches or metal-cutting work.
fractions of an inch. Blades are available in widths up
to 1 inch. GRINDERS

Grinders are simple machines that allow you to

reshape, form, and sharpen metal-cutting tools, or
other tools. The type of grinder discussed in this
chapter is the pedestal grinder.
The main parts of a pedestal grinder are as follows:
A motor with an extended shaft for mounting
grinding wheels.
A mounting base for the motor.
An adjustable tool rest for steadying the work
piece for grinding.
Wheel guards mounted over the grinding
wheel as a safety feature.
A shield fastened to the wheel guards to pro-
tect the operator from flying chips
The pedestal grinder is one of the most common and
versatile machine found in most shops. You will prob-
ably use this piece of equipment more than any other
piece of equipment found in your shop. You will use it
Figure 5-58.—Saw band characteristics. to clean welds, remove burrs, sharpen tools, dress up

torch cuts, buff sheet metal, and for numerous other — Use a coolant to prevent overheating the work.
functions. Not only must you be able to use a pedestal
grinder, but you also must observe all important oper- — Wear goggles and respiratory filters to protect
ating and safety precautions. your eyes and lungs from injury by grit and dust gener-
ated by grinding operations.
Grinding Safety — Transparent shields, if installed, should be
clean and properly adjusted. Transparent shields do not
The grinding wheel is a fragile cutting tool that preclude the use of goggles as the dust and grit may get
operates at high speeds. Therefore, the safe operation of around a shield. Goggles, however, provide full eye
pedestal grinders is as important as proper grinding protection.
techniques. Observance of posted safety precautions is
mandatory for the safety of the operator and the safety — When starting a grinder, push the start button
of personnel in the nearby vicinity. and stand to one side for at least 1 minute while the
What are the most common sources of injury during machine comes up to full speed. There is always a
grinding operations? Hazards leading to eye injury possibility that a wheel may shatter when coming up to
caused by grit generated by the grinding process are the speed.
most common and the most serious. Abrasions caused
— Never force work against a cold wheel. Apply
by bodily contact with the wheel are quite painful and
work gradually to give the wheel an opportunity to
can be serious. Cuts and bruises caused by segments of
warm. This will minimize the possibility of breakage.
an exploded wheel, or a tool “kicked” away from the
wheel are other sources of injury. Cuts and abrasions — Handle wheels carefully. Before replacing a
can become infected if not protected from grit and dust wheel on a grinder, always sound the new wheel for
from grinding. cracks. To sound a wheel, tap it lightly with a piece of
Safety in using pedestal grinders is primarily a hard wood. A good wheel gives out a clear ringing
matter of using common sense concentrating on the job sound, and a cracked wheel gives out a dull “thud.”
at hand. Each time you start to grind a tool, stop briefly Make sure that a fiber or rubber gasket is in place
to consider how observance of safety precautions and between each side of the wheel and its retaining washer
the use of safeguards protect you from injury. Consider (spindle wheel flange). Tighten the spindle nut just
the complications that could be caused by your loss of enough to hold the wheel firmly. If the nut is tightened
sight, or loss or mutilation of an arm or hand. too much, the clamping strain may damage the wheel.
The following operating instructions and safety
precautions are applicable in general to all grinders and — When selecting a replacement wheel, check to
specifically to the pedestal grinders. be sure that the grinder rpm will not exceed the manu-
facturer’s recommended speed for the wheel.
— Read posted safety precautions before you start
to use a machine. In addition to refreshing your memory — When grinding, always keep the work moving
about safe grinding practices, this gets your mind on the across the face of the wheel. This will prevent grooves
job at hand. from being worn into the face of the wheel.

— Secure all loose clothing and remove rings or — Keep all wheel guards tight and in place.
other jewelry. — Keep the spindle bearings well oiled.
— Inspect the grinding wheel, wheel guards, the — Dress wheels frequently to keep them clean,
tool rest, and other safety devices to ensure they are in sharp, and true, but do not remove any more material
good condition and positioned properly. Set the tool rest than necessary.
so that it is within 1/8 inch of the wheel face and level
with the center of the wheel. — Keep the tool rest adjusted so that it just clears
the wheel (never more than one-sixteenth inch) and is
— Use light pressure when you start grinding; too at or just below the center line of the wheel. This will
much pressure on a cold wheel may cause failure. prevent accidental jamming of the work between the
toolrest and the wheel.
— Grind only on the face or outer circumference
of a grinding wheel unless the wheel is specifically — Do not wear gloves when operating a pedestal
designed for side grinding. grinder.

— If a lot of metal is to be removed, use the coarse
wheel to remove most of it.
— Use a gauge, template, or a sample for compari-
son, unless you are familiar with the exact finished
shape of the article you are grinding.

Grinding Wheels

A grinding wheel is made up of two basic

elements: (1) the abrasive grains and (2) the bending
agent. The abrasive grains may be compared to many
single-point tools embedded in a toolholder of
bonding agent. Each of these grains removes a very
small chip from the material as it makes contact on
each revolution of the grinding wheel.
An ideal cutting tool is one that will sharpen itself
when it becomes dull. This, in effect, is what happens
to the abrasive grains. As the individual grains become
dull, the pressure that is generated on them causes Figure 5-59.—Grinding wheel shapes.
them to fracture and present new sharp cutting edges
to the work. When the grains can fracture no more, the
pressure becomes too great and they are released from all manufacturers. The shapes are shown in cross-
the bond, allowing a new layer of sharp grains to be sectional views. The specific job will dictate the shape
presented to the work. of wheel you should use.
in various sizes and shapes. The size of a grinding TION.—Grinding wheel markings are comprised of
wheel is given in terms of its diameter in inches, the six sections, each of which identifies a characteristic
diameter of its spindle hole, and the width of its face. of the wheel. The six sections are (1) type of abrasive,
Grinding wheels have too many shapes to list in this (2) grain size, (3) bond grade, (4) structure, (5) type
manual, however, figure 5-59 shows those used most of bond, (6) the manufacturer’s record symbol. Figure
often. The type numbers are standard and are used by 5-60 shows the standard marking system and possible

Figure 5-60.—Standard marking system for grinding wheels (except diamond).

variations that identify nearly all abrasives except Grain Size.—The second section on the grinding
diamond. The following information breaks the mark- wheel marking is the grain size. Grain sizes range from
ing down and explains each section. Follow the sec- 10 to 600. The size is determined by the size of mesh
tions in the figure from left to right as you read an of a sieve through which the grains can pass. Generally
explanation of each section in the following para- speaking, grain size is rated as follows: coarse: 10
graphs. This information should be studied carefully through 24; medium: 30 through 60; fine: 70 through
as it will be invaluable in making the proper wheel 180; and very fine: 220 through 600. Fine grain wheels
selection for each grinding job you will attempt. are preferred for grinding hard materials, as they have
more cutting edges and will cut faster than coarse grain
Type of Abrasive.—The first section on the
wheels. Coarse grain wheels are generally preferred
grinding wheel marking shows the type of abrasive.
for rapid metal removal on softer materials.
There are two types of abrasives: natural and
manufactured. Natural abrasive, such as emery, Grade or Hardness.—Section three of the
corundum, and diamond, are used only in honing grinding wheel marking is the grade or hardness of the
stones and in special types of grinding wheels. The wheel. The grade is designated by a letter of the
common manufactured abrasives are aluminum oxide alphabet and it runs from A to Z or soft to hard. The
and silicon carbide. They have superior qualities and grade of a grinding wheel is a measure of the bond’s
are more economical than natural abrasives. ability to retain the abrasive grains in the wheel. A soft
Aluminum oxide (designated by the letter A) is used to hard grade does not mean that the bond or the
to grind steel and steel alloys, and for heavy duty work abrasive is soft or hard; it means that the wheel has
such as cleaning up steel castings. Silicon carbide either a large amount of bond (hard grade) or a small
(designated by the letter C), is harder but not as tough amount of bond (soft grade).
as aluminum oxide. It is used mostly for grinding Figure 5-61 shows magnified portions of both
nonferrous metals and carbide tools. The abrasive in soft-grade and hard-grade wheels. You can see that a
a grinding wheel makes up about 40 percent of the part of the bond surrounds the abrasive grains, and the
wheel. remainder of the bond forms into posts that hold the
grains to the wheel and hold them apart from each
other. The wheel with the larger amount of bonding
material (hard grade) has thick bond posts and offers
great resistance to grinding pressures. The wheel with
the least amount of bond (soft grade) offers less
resistance to grinding pressures.
Structure. —The fourth section of the grinding
wheel marking is the structure. The structure is
designated by numbers from 1 to 15. The structure of
a grinding wheel refers to the open space between the
grains, as shown in figure 5-61. Grains that are very
closely spaced are said to be dense; when grains are
wider apart, they are said to be open. Open grain
wheels remove more metal faster than close-grain
wheels. Also, dense, or close-grain wheels, normally
produce a finer finish. Structure makes up about 20
percent of the grinding wheel.
Bond Type.—The fifth section on the grinding
wheel marking is the bond type. The bond makes up
the remaining 40 percent of the grinding wheel and is
one of the most important parts of the wheel. The bond
determines the strength of the wheel. The six basic
types of bonds are vitrified, silicate, rubber, resinoid,
shellac, and oxychloride. We will discuss each type in
Figure 5-61.— How bond affects the grade of a wheel. Wheel the following paragraphs.

VITRIFIED bonded wheels are designated by the Manufacturer’s Record.—The sixth section of
letter V. They are not affected by oil, acid, or water. the grinding wheel marking is the manufacturer’s
Vitrified bonded wheels are strong and porous, and record. This may be a letter or number, or both. It is
rapid temperature changes have little or no effect on used by the manufacturer to designate bond
them. Do not run vitrified wheels faster than 6,500 modifications or wheel characteristics.
surface feet per minute (sfpm).
SILICATE bonded wheels are designated by the GRINDING WHEEL SELECTION
letter S. Silicate bonded wheels are used mainly on AND USE
large, slow rpm machines where a cooler cutting action
You should select a grinding wheel that has the
is desired. Silicate bonded wheels are softer than vitri-
proper abrasive, grain, grade, and bond for the job.
fied wheels, and they release the grains more readily.
You should base your selection on such factors as the
Like the vitrified bonded wheel, do not run this wheel
physical properties of the material to be ground, the
in excess of 6,500 sfpm.
amount of stock to be removed (depth of cut), the
RUBBER bonded wheels are designated by the wheel speed and work speed, and the finish required.
letter R. These wheels are strong and elastic and they
are used as thin cutoff wheels. These wheels are used To grind carbon and alloy steel, high-speed steel,
extensively for regulating wheels on centerless grind- cast alloys, and malleable iron, you probably should
ers. Rubber bonded wheels produce a high finish and use an aluminum oxide abrasive. A silicon carbide
can be run at speeds up to 16,000 sfpm. abrasive is most suitable for grinding nonferrous
RESINOID bonded wheels are designated by the metals, nonmetallic materials, and cemented carbides.
letter B. These wheels are shock resistant and strong and
Generally, you'll choose coarser-grain wheels to
are used for rough grinding and cutoff wheels. Like
grind softer and more ductile the materials. Also use
rubber bonded wheels, you can run these wheels at
coarser-grain wheels to remove a large amount of
speeds up to 16,000 sfpm.
material (except on very hard materials). If a good
SHELLAC bonded wheels are designated by the finish is required, a fine grain wheel should be used.
letter E. These wheels give a high finish and have a cool For soft materials, small depth of cut, or high-work
cutting action when used as cutoff wheels. Shellac speed, use a soft grade wheel. If the machine you are
bonded wheels can be run at speeds up to 12,500 sfpm. using is worn, you may need to use a harder grade
OXYCHLORIDE bonded wheels are designated wheel to offset the effects of that wear. You also can
by the letter O. Do not run these wheels at speeds use a harder grade wheel if you use a coolant with it.
greater than 6,500 sfpm. Table 5-3 lists recommended grinding wheels for

Table 5-3.—Recommendations for Selecting Grinding Wheels

various operations. However, before you perform
these operations, you should be able to install and
dress the wheels properly, whenever required.
pedestal grinder must be properly installed; otherwise,
it will not operate properly and accidents may occur.
Before you install a wheel, inspect it for visible defects
and “sound” it by tapping lightly with a piece of hard
wood to determine if it has invisible cracks. A good
wheel will give out a clear ringing sound when tapped.
If you hear a dull thud, the wheel is cracked and should
not be used. When installing the wheel on the grinding
machine, you should always refer to the technical
manual to ensure that the wheel is correctly installed
Figure 5-62.—Using a grinding wheel dresser. and tightened.

Figure 5-63.—Sensitive drill press.

TRUING AND DRESSING THE WHEEL.— machines and the holding devices used make them
Grinding wheels, like other cutting tools, require unsuitable for heavy work.
frequent reconditioning of cutting surfaces to perform
The radial drill press (fig. 5-64) has a movable
efficiently. Dressing is the term used to describe the
spindle that can be adjusted to the work. This machine
process of cleaning the periphery of grinding wheels.
is especially useful when the workpiece is large,
This cleaning breaks away dull abrasive grains and
bulky, or heavy, or when you need to drill many holes
smooths the surface so that there are no grooves.
Truing is the term used to describe the removal of with one setup, because the work does not have to be
material from the cutting face of the wheel so that the readjusted for each hole. The arm and spindle are
resultant surface runs absolutely true to some other designed so that the drill can be positioned easily over
surface such as the grinding wheel shaft. the layout of the workpiece.

The wheel dresser, shown in figure 5-62, is used Before operating any drill press, do a visual
for dressing grinding wheels on pedestal grinders. To inspection to be certain that all parts are in the proper
dress a wheel with this tool, start the grinder and let it place, secure, and in good operating condition. Check
come up to speed. Set the wheel dresser on the rest as all assemblies, such as the motor, head, pulleys, and
shown in figure 5-62 and bring it in firm contact with bench for loose mountings. Check the V-belt and
the wheel. Move the wheel dresser back and forth adjust it as necessary according to the manufacturer’s
across the face of the wheel until the surface is clean technical manual. Make sure the electrical cord is
and approximately square with the sides of the wheel. securely connected and that the insulation is not
damaged, chafed, or cracked.
Several things can get a grinding wheel out of
balance. For instance, it may be out of roundness, and While the drill press is operating, be alert for any
you can usually correct this problem by dressing the sounds that signal trouble, such as squeaks or unusual
wheel. Or, it may get out of balance if part of the wheel noises. Report any unusual or unsatisfactory
is immersed in coolant. If this happens, remove and performance of the drill press to the petty officer in
replace the wheel. If the wheel gets out of balance charge of the shop.
axially, it probably will not affect the efficiency of the
wheel. To correct axial unbalance, simply remove the
wheel and clean the shaft spindle, the spindle hole, and
Each time a wheel is dressed, you should check
the clearance between the tool rest and the wheel.
Reestablish the clearance at not more than 1/8 inch, as
required. To preclude possible injury, make all
adjustments with the machine secured.


There are many sizes and styles of drilling

machines or drill presses, each designed for a
particular type of work. Only the sensitive drill press
and the radial drill press will be covered in this section.
One type of upright drill press is the sensitive drill
press (fig. 5-63). It is used to drill small holes in work
under conditions that make it necessary for the
operator to “feel” what the cutting tool is doing. The
tool is fed into the work by a very simple device-a
lever, a pinion and shaft, and a rack that engages the
pinion. These drills are nearly always belt-driven
because the vibrations caused by gearing will reduce
their sensitivity. The high-speed range of these Figure 5-64.—Radial drill press.

You must use a cutting oil when drilling steel or System (PMS), described in Military Requirements
wrought iron. Cast iron, aluminum, brass, and other for Petty Officer Third Class, NAVEDTRA 12044.
metals may be drilled dry at high drilling speeds. PMS is minimum maintenance. If you feel more
However, you should use some medium to cool these maintenance is required, refer to the technical
metals. This will reduce the chances of overheating the publication and perform the necessary maintenance.
drill bit and loss of the cutting edge. Compressed air
may be used for cast iron; oleic acid for copper;
sulphurized mineral oil for Monel; and water, lard, or
soluble oil and soda water for ferrous metals. (Soda GAS CYLINDERS AND CYLINDER
water reduces heat, overcomes rust, and improves the VALVES
You are required to know the standard Navy
After operating a drill press, wipe off all dirt, oil, system for marking gas cylinders and to be able to
and metal particles. Inspect the V-belt to make sure no identify the cylinder valves and cylinders of various
metal chips are imbedded in the driving surfaces.
gases. You should be familiar with the construction,
design, and size of these cylinders. You should also
MAINTENANCE OF INSTALLED SHOP know how to handle and stow gas cylinders in a safe
and proper manner. This section will give you a few
The machines in your shop depend upon you for of the important facts about gas cylinders and cylinder
their care and maintenance. To keep your machines valves. Additional information concerning com-
operating properly, you should perform PMS pressed gases can be found in MIL-STD-101, Color
routinely. Preventive maintenance should be Codes for Pipelines and for Compressed Gas
performed according to the Planned Maintenance Cylinders.

Figure 5-65.—Cutaway view of compressed gas cylinders: (A) Oxygen cylinder; (B) acetylene cylinder.

CONSTRUCTION OF CYLINDERS dissolved in acetone, and are assigned Navy serial
numbers on the volume basis. In other words, gases in
Gas cylinders are made of high-quality steel. the liquid state are measured by weight, and those in
High-pressure gases, such as oxygen, hydrogen, the gaseous state are measured by volume. Acetylene,
nitrogen, and compressed air are stored in cylinders of though dissolved in a liquid, is measured as a gas by
seamless construction. Only nonshatterable volume.
high-pressure gas cylinders may be used by ships or Since 1 August 1944, Navy serial numbers have a
activities operating outside the continental United designated letter placed before the numerals. This
States. Cylinders for low-pressure gases, such as letter shows the type of gas carried in the cylinder.
acetylene, may be welded or brazed. All cylinders are The lettering system assigns the following letters to
carefully tested, either at the factory or a designated the gases:
processing station, at pressures above the maximum
permissible charging pressure. A—Acetylene
The cylinders for most compressed gases are M—Ammonia
shaped alike. However, cylinders for acetylene are
shorter and of a larger diameter, as shown in figure D—Carbon dioxide
5-65. K—Chlorine
All gas cylinders have safety devices either in the E—Ethylene oxide
valve, in the shoulder, in the bottom of the cylinder,
or in a combination of these places. A threaded valve H—Helium
protection cap screws on the neck ring and protects the N—Nitrogen
J—Nitrous oxide
Gas cylinders are manufactured and maintained P—Liquefied petroleum gas (propane, butane, and
according to the regulations of the Interstate so on)
Commerce Commission (ICC). The ICC stipulates
S—Sulfur dioxide
that each cylinder be indented or stenciled with
prescribed identification markings. Cylinders larger F—Freon
than 2 inches in diameter must be indented with serial B—Carboxide
numbers. Therefore, cylinders exceeding 2 inches in
diameter, which are not assigned Navy serial numbers, Y—Hydrogen
require manufacturer’s serial numbers. No more than R—Methyl chloride
500 cylinders are allowed in each lot manufactured.
Requirements for ICC 8 (acetylene) and ICC 9 Z—Compressed air
(aerosol dispenser) cylinders are exceptions to this L—Ethyl chloride
requirement. ICC 8 cylinders of all sizes require serial
numbers and ICC 9 cylinders of all sizes are assigned NO—Nitrogen dioxide
lot numbers. However, an unlimited number per lot is V—Argon
In addition to markings required by the ICC, gas
Navy-owned compressed-gas cylinders are cylinders used by all three services—Navy, Army, and
indented with figures and letters. In addition to the Air Force —have certain standard identifying
identifications required by ICC regulations, features. So much injury and damage can be, and has
Navy-owned cylinders for gases in the liquid state been, caused by mistaking one gas cylinder for
with a water capacity in excess of 15 pounds, or gases another. Therefore, a national program has been
in the gaseous state with a volume in excess of 658 established to make it almost impossible to confuse
cubic inches, are identified by an indented Navy serial cylinders. The identifying features used by the Armed
number. This number is preceded and followed by the Forces in this program consist of using a color code
letters USN. Acetylene cylinders contain acetylene for painting the cylinders, stenciling the name of the

gas along two sides of the cylinder, and placing two Shatterproof cylinders are stenciled in two
identifying symbols (decals) on the shoulder of each locations with the phrase “Non-Shat” lengthwise and
cylinder. The gas cylinders must be painted as shown 90° from the titles. Letters must be either black or
white, and approximately 1 inch in size.
in figure 5-66, and the arrangement of colors will
appear as shown in table 5-4.
Color Codes for Cylinders
If the color of the cylinders reduces the
effectiveness of the ship's camouflage scheme, canvas Color coding is mandatory for compressed-gas
covers painted with the camouflage colors should be cylinders. Identifying colors are assigned by the
placed over the cylinders. Do not paint the cylinders Standardization Division, Office of the Assistant
with camouflage paint. Secretary of Defense (Supply and Logistics).

Figure 5-66.—Location of color codes on gas cylinders.

Table 5-4.—Cylinder Color Code

Location of cylinder markings

Contents of cylinder
Top A B and B B and C Body
Medical anesthetic gases:
Cyclopropane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Orange Yellow Blue Blue
Ethylene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Blue Blue Blue
Nitrous oxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blue Blue Blue Blue
Fuel gases:
Acetylene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Yellow Yellow Yellow
Hydrogen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Black Yellow Yellow
Manufactured gases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Yellow Yellow Yellow
Petroleum (liquefied & nonliquefied) . . . . . . . . . Yellow Orange Yellow Yellow
Industrial gases:
Butadiene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow White Buff (tan) Buff (tan)
Ethylene oxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Blue Buff (tan) Buff (tan)
Ethyl chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buff Blue Yellow Buff (tan)
Propylene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Gray Buff Buff (tan)
Vinyl chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Orange Buff Buff (tan)
Vinyl methyl ether. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Black Buff Buff (tan)
Aerosol insecticide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buff Buff Buff Buff (tan)
Toxics and poisonous materials:
Carbon monoxide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Brown Brown Brown
Hydrogen sulfide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Yellow Brown Brown
Methyl bromide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Black Brown Brown
Boron trifluoride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray Brown Brown Brown
Chlorine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Brown Brown Brown
Hydrogen chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown White Brown Brown
Phosgene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Orange Brown Brown
Sulfur dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Gray Brown Brown
Ammonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brown Yellow Orange Orange
Freons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Orange Orange Orange Orange
Methyl chloride. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yellow Brown Orange Orange
Oxidizing gases:
Oxygen, aviator's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green White Green Green
Air, oil pumped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black Green Green Black
Air, water pumped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black Green Black Black
Helium-oxygen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buff White Green Green
Oxygen-carbon dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray White Green Green
Inert gases:
Argon, oil pumped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray White White Gray
Argon, water pumped. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray White Gray Gray
Carbon dioxide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray Gray Gray Gray
Helium, oil pumped. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray Orange Gray Gray
Helium, oil free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buff Gray Gray Gray
Nitrogen, oil pumped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray Black Gray Gray
Nitrogen, water pumped. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray Black Black Gray
Fire-fighting gases:
Carbon dioxide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red Red Red Red
Methyl bromide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Red Brown Red Red

Cylinders that have a background color of yellow,
orange, or buff have the title stenciled in black.
Cylinders that have a background color of red, brown,
black, blue, gray, or green have the title stenciled in
white. Figure 5-67 shows how cylinders are identified
by the overall painted color code and by the stenciled
name of the gas.


As a further identification measure, two decalco-

manias (pronounced de-kel-ko-main-e-ah, or abbrevi-
ated as decals), are applied to the shoulder of each
cylinder. The decals show the name of the gas and the
precautions for its handling and use. The decals are
available from general stores for each gas used in the


ICC regulations require that all gas cylinders,

except acetylene cylinders, be retested every 5 years.
Cylinders that are due for retesting are not to be
charged and shipped until such retests have been
properly made. However, cylinders that have been
charged before the expiration of their retest period
may be shipped and used until empty. They will then
be turned in for retesting. The dates of retests are
permanently and plainly marked by the stamping on
the shoulder of the cylinder, directly opposite the ICC
and Navy serial numbers. The stamping, for example
4-88, means that the last test was performed in April
The 5-year tests are performed by naval activities
and civilian agencies under regulations of the ICC.
Personnel aboard naval ships are not authorized to
perform such tests. Empty cylinders with expired test
periods should be returned to the nearest naval supply
depot or cylinder testing activity, and marked “For


You must always remember ALL compressed

gases are hazardous. Many detailed precautions could
be set down with regard to the handling and stowing
of these gases. The more important ones are
summarized in this section.
The term stowage as used in the following
paragraphs refers to articles under the cognizance of Figure 5-67.—Identifying color patterns for gas cylinders.
the supply officer, in general stores, to be drawn on
for the ship’s own use, or articles of cargo being

transported. It does not refer to cylinders that have — Metal strap clamps provided for retaining the
been removed from stores or from cargo and tops of the cylinders in place. Chains are not to be used
transferred to the shops or other locations for use. as retainers since they normally are a little slack; the
The term ready service refers to cylinders or other cylinders can shift and cause an accident.
articles that have been transferred from stores and are
actually located in a shop or near a place where they Stowage of Compressed Gases
are to be used. It is not necessary that the articles be
in actual use, but they must be ready for use. In general, weather-deck stowage will be provided
for flammable and explosive gases. However, in
specific cases, below-deck stowage is approved;
Handling Cylinders depending on the particular type, mission, and
Cylinders that contain flammable and/or arrangement of the ship. In such cases, these approved
explosive gases must be handled with extreme care. locations are shown on the ship’s plans.
Every effort should be made to avoid dropping them Compressed gases aboard all ships, except cargo
or allowing them to strike too hard against each other ships, should be stowed only in compartments
or any other object. Take every precaution to prevent designated by NAVSEA, as shown in applicable plans
bumping or striking the discharge valves. for the ship. In such cases, the following precautions
must be observed:
When cylinders are being handled, the cylinder
valve outlet cap and the cylinder valve protecting cap
must be in place. Unless ready-service cylinders are Take necessary steps to keep the maximum
temperature of the stowage compartment be-
secured in special portable racks, regulators must be
low 130°F.
removed and caps replaced before the cylinders are
moved to a new location. Even then, it is best to When provisions are made for mechanical
remove the regulators and replace the caps for safety. ventilation, operate this ventilation according
Be very careful when loading or transferring to the damage control classification assigned.
cylinders, especially when using a crane or derrick. The classification for closures of this system
The cylinders must be secured in a cradle, suitable are either “Z, ” “W,” or “W.”
platform, rack, or special container such as a sandbag. Do not install portable electric wiring and
Electromagnets must never be used. A cylinder moved equipment in compartments designated for
by hand should be tilted slightly and rolled on its the stowage of flammable or explosive gases.
bottom edge, without dragging or sliding. Hooks or
lines through the valve protection cap must not be used Keep flammable materials, especially grease
for hoisting cylinders. Cylinders frozen to the deck, or and oil, out of the stowage space.
otherwise fixed, must not be pried loose with crowbars
Securely fasten each cylinder individually, in
or similar tools.
the vertical position (valve end up), by metal
When gas cylinders are transported on a hand collars. Other arrangements are approved for
truck, they must be held securely in position. The truck cargo ships fitted especially for cylinder trans-
should be fastened to a bulkhead or stanchion as soon port.
as the destination is reached. The truck should be
constructed as follows: Stow oxygen and chlorine in compartments
separate from flammable gases. Inert or non-
— Frame sufficiently rigid to permit handling flammable gases may be stowed in any com-
with tackle. partment designated for compressed gas
— Grips or handles ending in a vertical line with
the aft side of the wheels. (This facilitates fastening to Ventilate compartments containing com-
a bulkhead.) pressed gases for 15 minutes before entry in
the event that ventilation has been closed
— Platform fitted with sides to prevent the cylin- down. A suitable sign to this effect should be
ders from sliding off. posted on the outside of the access door.

When compressed gas is stowed on the weather
Stow cylinders attached to NAVSEA-ap-
deck, the following additional precautions must be
proved damage control equipment below
decks in repair lockers. Spare cylinders used
for this purpose may be stowed in the same
Do not stow oxygen and chlorine cylinders
close to the fuel-gas cylinders. Normal prac-
tice is to stow gas cylinders on one side of the Remove welding units from the designated
ship and to stow oxygen and chlorine cylin- stowage location to perform work at some
ders on the other side. remote location in the ship. Return these units
Stow cylinders containing compressed gases to the designated stowage location immedi-
for the greatest possible protection. During the ately after you complete your work. Attend to
winter, protect cylinder valves against the ac- the equipment at all times while it is away
cumulation of snow and ice. Use warm water from its regular stowage.
(not boiling) to thaw ice accumulations in
Post a card showing the following warning at
cylinder valve caps and outlets. Boiling water
the designated stowage location of each unit:
may melt the fusible plugs. During the sum-
mer, screen cylinders from the direct rays of WARNING: UNIT IS NOT SECURE WHILE
Make every effort to prevent corrosion of
threaded connections of cylinders that are
stowed for extended periods of time. The use NOT FIRMLY FASTENED TO BULKHEAD. IF
of grease, lubricants, or flammable corrosion REMOVED FROM THIS LOCATION, THIS UNIT IS
inhibitors on oxygen cylinders is NOT permit- TO BE CONSTANTLY ATTENDED UNTIL
ted. Oil or grease in the presence of oxygen RETURNED AND SECURED.
under pressure will ignite violently. Attach a card showing the following statement
The stowage area should be as far away as to each unit:
practical from navigation stations, fire control RETURN TO (DESIGNATED LOCATION)
stations, and gun mounts. IMMEDIATELY ON COMPLETION OF WORK.
Cylinders in actual use, and those attached to GAUGES, OR WHEN CYLINDERS ARE NOT
welding, fire fighting, medical, refrigeration, or FIRMLY FASTENED TO RACK OR BULKHEAD,
similar apparatus, ready for use, are permitted below OR WHEN RACK IS NOTFIRMLY FASTENED TO
decks outside of the stowage compartment. BULKHEAD OR STANCHION.
The following special precautions must be taken See NSTM, chapters 550 and 074, volume 3, for
with oxygen and fuel-gas cylinders for welding: detailed precautions.
The number of cylinders of gas needed to DISPOSITION OF EMPTY
equip each authorized gas cutting and welding CYLINDERS
position may be installed in shops. The num-
ber of authorized positions will be determined Empty cylinders should be delivered to the nearest
from either a NAVSEA-approved plan or the naval supply depot. Valves should be closed and under
machinery specifications for the shop con- some positive pressure, except where the design of the
valve does not permit closing, as is the case with fire
Securely fasten cylinders in a rack. The rack extinguishers. The pressure is necessary to prevent
must be securely fastened to the bulkhead, and condensation of atmospheric moisture on the internal
must not allow any vertical movement of cyl- walls. In the case of acetylene cylinders, the pressure
inders. prevents loss of the solvent (acetone) and/or entry of

air, if the cylinders cool considerably below the
temperature at which they were discharged.
Sometimes, cylinders used for aviator’s breathing
oxygen, dry nitrogen, argon, or dry air are found to
have open valves and/or a positive internal pressure of
less than 25 psi. These cylinders should be tagged with
the explanation that they must be dried before they are


Navy standard gas cylinder valves are of two basic

designs: packed valves and diaphragm-type packless
Packed valves require a packing material around
the valve stem to prevent leakage. The valve stem is
packed to prevent gas from leaking out around the
Figure 5-68.—Oxygen cylinder gas valves: (A) external view of
stem when the valve is open. MIL-V-2 covers the one type of valve, with related safety and outlet connection
authorized packing material for gas cylinder valves. caps; (B) cutaway view of the same valve, showing
diaphragms to prevent gas leakage when the valve is
Packless valves are sealed against leakage around opened; (C) cutaway view of another type of valve, with
the valve stem by flexible metallic diaphragms asbestos packing to prevent gas leakage when the valve is
securely clamped to the valve bonnets. The basic opened.
packless design may be classified into two types:
nonbackseating and backseating. The nonbackseating
type is designed so that the metallic sealing gas flows through a threaded male cylinder connection
diaphragms may not be replaced under pressure. In the into the valve body and past the valve outlet
backseating type the metallic diaphragms may be connection into the pressure regulator. (Pressure
replaced without undue hazard or loss of contained regulators reduce the pressure of compressed gases
gases if the outlet cap is in place and secure. from the cylinder pressure to the desired working
Diaphragms in packless valves should be replaced
only by activities carrying spare diaphragms
specifically designed for the valves in need of
These diaphragms are made from materials
selected for service at varying high pressures. In
addition, they are often designed only for use with
valves built by a given manufacturer and for a specific
The Navy gas valve program (and concerned
civilian agencies) provides noninterchangeable valve
outlets and connections for different gases to prevent
the use of the wrong gas at any time.

Construction and Identification of Valves

Valves designed to control the flow of compressed

gases are forged of brass, bronze, or steel, and are
made in various shapes and sizes. Figures 5-68 and
5-69 show typical gas cylinder valves. The valves are
opened and closed with either hand-operated or Figure 5-69.—Cutaway view of an acetylene cylinder valve
wrench-operated spindles. When the valves are open, showing asbestos packing.

pressure. All regulators are marked with the name of Pressures ranging from 2,600 to 3,000 psi will rupture
the gas for which they are intended.) the safety disk and allow the gas in the cylinder to vent
To prevent leakage of gas above the valve stem to the atmosphere. This type of safety device is used in
when the valve is opened, each valve is equipped with carbon dioxide service.
asbestos, leather, rubber packing, or metal 4. BACKED SAFETY CAP WITH RUPTURE
diaphragms. Most valves have safety devices. (The DISK—Backed safety caps with rupture disks are
safety devices for acetylene and ammonia are in the essentially the same as those described in paragraph 3.
cylinders rather than in the valves.) These safety However, the breakable disk is supported by fusible
devices consist of fusible metal plugs, rupture disks, metal contained in the safety cap thus blocking off
or both. Spring-loaded safety devices are used for escape ports. This cap works when the cylinder, valve,
some gases. If heat causes too much pressure, the fuse and therefore the fusible metal are heated above the
plugs melt and the disks burst, releasing the contents melting temperature. When the pressure within the
of the cylinder. Acetylene valves have screens in the cylinder reaches 2,600 to 3,000 psi, the breakable disk
cylinder connections; other valves do not.
ruptures and reduces the pressure. This type of device
Valves manufactured according to the latest is used commonly on air, argon, helium, hydrogen,
military specifications have the name of the gas, or nitrogen, and oxygen valves.
service for which they are designed. indented on at
least one of the flats on the sides of the valves. Valves Lea king Valves
must be used only for the gases or fluids indicated.
Otherwise, personnel may be injured or the equipment Cylinders with leaking or defective valves should
may be damaged. be tagged as such and turned in to the nearest naval
supply depot for overhaul.
Safety Devices for Valves
Safety Precautions
Military specifications and ICC regulations
require that valves designed for certain services be Cylinders, regulators, hoses, and torches are
fitted with safety devices. These devices guard against important parts of the shop equipment for heating,
a buildup of hazardous pressures caused by heat. This welding, and cutting. Learn and follow these safety
can easily happen with CO2 cylinders used for fire rules for this type of equipment:
fighting in fire rooms and engine rooms. Pressure can
also build up from overcharging or similar causes. Never fill a cylinder with a gas other than the
These safety devices may be divided into four general gas for which it is specifically designated.
categories based on functional design as follows: Never remove or change the decals.
1. FUSIBLE PLUGS—A fusible plug may be
Never return an empty cylinder without mak-
described as a threaded hex-head plug with a center
filled with fusible metal. When the cylinder is ing sure that valves are closed and that protec-
tive caps are in place.
overheated, the fusible metal melts and permits the gas
to escape. This type of device is used on chlorine, freon, Never drop the cylinders or let them strike
acetylene, and such gases. against each other.
2. SPRING-LOADED SAFETY DEVICE— Never use cylinders as rollers or supports.
These devices usually function as “pop” valves that
open to release excess pressure when pressure in the Never hammer or strike the valve wheel to
cylinder overcomes spring tension. Devices of this sort open or close the valve. Use only the wrenches
are used on liquefied petroleum gas valves. They or tools approved for that purpose.
operate generally at about 150 percent of the cylinder’s
ICC-approved pressure. If valve outlets are iced, use only warm water
to free them. Never use hot or boiling water.
RUPTURE DISK—This safety device is essentially a Never use a cylinder that IS improperly
safety cap that covers a safety port in the valve. The cap marked; that is, where the paint color doesn’t
retains a breakable disk firmly over the safety port. agree with the information on the decal.

Never use a lifting magnet or a sling to raise SUMMARY
or handle a cylinder.
This chapter gave you a brief introduction to the
Be careful not to mix full and empty cylinders handtools, power tools, and installed equipment used
in a stowage rack. by HTs. The importance of caring for these tools
Never tamper with safety devices on the properly cannot be stressed enough. Learn to use them
valves or cylinders. correctly and protect them from loss or damage. These
tools will determine how well you perform your job.
Never store oxygen and acetylene cylinders in
the same immediate area. Now you also have an understanding of the
operations and safety precautions of portable hand and
Be especially careful that you never strike an power tools, pneumatic tools, grinders, drilling
arc on gas cylinders or sealed metal cylinders machines, bandsaws, power hacksaws, and thread-
of any kind. cutting tools. However, it would be to your advantage
Acetylene and low-pressure fuel-gas cylin- to read the manufacturers’ operating manuals for all
ders, which have been stowed in a horizontal of shop tools and equipment. You should also review
position, must be placed in a vertical position the section on compressed-gas cylinders and the safety
for at least 2 hours before you use them. This precautions involved with them. You will find that you
will allow the porous filler material inside the will work with some aspect of compressed-gas
cylinder to settle. cylinders almost every day.




Upon completion of this chapter; you will be able to do the following:

Explain the concepts of stress and strain in metals.

Describe the different properties of metals.
Identify the two major classes of metals.
Describe the different types offerrous and nonferrous metals.
Identify different metals by color markings, surface appearance, and identi-
fication tests.

INTRODUCTION elements. The elements that are used as alloying sub-

stances are usually metals or metalloids. By combining
As an HT, you will be working with many different metals and metalloids, it is possible to develop alloys
types of metals and alloys. The more knowledge you that have the particular properties required for a given
have of metals and alloys, the better you will be able to use.
perform your repair and maintenance duties. You Table 6-1 lists some common metals and
should have some accurate means of identifying metals. metalloids and gives the chemical symbol that is used
To intelligently solve welding problems, you should to identify each element.
also have a good understanding of the internal structure
of metals, and the effects that welding (heat input) has Table 6-1.—Symbols of Common Metals and Metalloids
on metals. This chapter will start you on your way by
giving you a basic understanding of metallurgy.
Can you define a metal? Chemical elements are
considered to be metals if they are lustrous, hard, good
conductors of heat and electricity, malleable, ductile,
and heavy. Some metals are heavier than others; some
are more malleable than others; and some are better
conductors of heat and electricity. These properties are
known as “metallic properties,” and chemical elements
that possess these properties to some degree are called
metals. Chemical elements that do not possess these
properties are called nonmetals. Oxygen, hydrogen,
chlorine, and iodine are examples of nonmetallic
chemical elements.
Chemical elements that behave sometimes like
metals and sometimes like nonmetals are often called
metalloids. Carbon, silicon, and boron are examples of
An alloy may be defined as a substance that has
metallic properties and is composed of two or more


CARBON STEEL is an alloy of iron and control- When external force is applied to any solid
led amounts of carbon. ALLOY STEEL is a combina- material, the material is subjected to stress. Many of
tion of carbon steel and controlled amounts of other the properties of metals can best be understood in
desirable metal elements. terms of the manner in which they react to stress.
Therefore, before considering the properties of metals
The percentage of carbon content determines the
and alloys, let us examine the concepts of stress and
type of carbon steel. For example, wrought iron has
0.003 percent carbon, meaning three thousandths of
one percent. Low-carbon steel contains less than 0.30 Load, which is usually measured in pounds, is the
percent carbon. Medium-carbon steel varies between external force applied to a material. When the load is
0.30 and 0.55 percent carbon content. High-carbon applied, reaction forces to the load occur throughout
steel contains approximately 0.55 to 0.80 percent the material. The reaction forces are stresses. Why do
carbon, and very-high-carbon steel contains between these forces occur when a load is applied to a material?
0.80 and 1.70 percent carbon. Cast iron contains 1.8 Newton's third law of motion states that “to every
to 4 percent carbon. force or action, there is an equal and opposite
reaction.” Stress, therefore, is the “equal and
Carbon generally combines with the iron to form
opposite” reaction to the externally applied load. It is
CEMENTITE, a very hard, brittle substance. defined as the force per unit area resisting the load.
Cementite is also known as IRON CARBIDE. This
Unit area is important. The unit area may be stated as
action means that as the carbon content of the steel a square inch, a square foot, or any other pre-
increases, the hardness, the strength, and the
determined amount of area that is used to figure the
brittleness of the steel also tend to increase.
amount of stress that the material will be subjected to.
Various heat treatments are used to enable steel to When the load is applied, it is distributed equally
retain its strength at the higher carbon contents, and throughout the cross section of the material. For
yet not have the extreme brittleness usually associated example, suppose two round metal rods with
with high carbon steels. Also, certain other substances, cross-sectional areas of 1 square inch and 2 square
such as nickel, chromium, manganese, vanadium, and inches are each supporting a 2000-pound weight. The
other alloying metals, may be added to steel to load or external force is the same on both, but since
improve certain physical properties. the cross-sectional areas are different and the load is
distributed equally over the cross-sectional areas, the
A welder must also have an understanding of the
stresses in the two rods are also different.
impurities occasionally found in metals and their ef-
fect upon the weldability of the metal. Two of the You can see from the example that the stress is
detrimental impurities sometimes found in steels are equal to the load divided by the cross-sectional area.
phosphorus and sulphur. Their presence in steel is due That is, equal portions of the load are distributed
to their presence in the ore, or to the method of manu- equally over the cross-sectional area. Stress is usually
facture. Both of these impurities are detrimental to the measured in pounds (for load) per square inch (for
welding qualities of steel. Therefore, during the manu- area). Conversely, the load can be determined by
facturing process, extreme care must always be taken multiplying the stress by the cross-sectional area.
to keep the impurities at a minimum (0.05 percent or
Strain is the deformation or change in shape
less). Sulphur improves the machining qualities of
caused by the load. Some strain always occurs as a
steel, but it is detrimental to its hot forming properties.
reaction to a load. The amount of strain depends on
During a welding operation, sulphur or the magnitude and duration of the stress caused by the
phosphorus tends to form gas in the molten metal. The load. It also depends on the type and condition of the
resulting gas pockets in the welds cause brittleness. material. Strain is measured in inches per inch or in
Another impurity is dirt or slag (iron oxide). The dirt percentage. Thus, when a load is applied to a bar in
or slag is imbedded in the metal during rolling. Some tension, the bar will elongate (be strained) some frac-
of the dirt may come from the by-products of the tion of an inch for each inch of bar (the strain will be
process of refining the metal. These impurities may the same in each inch of bar). If strain is being meas-
also produce blow holes in the weld and reduce the ured in percentage, the bar will be elongated a certain
physical properties of the metal in general. percentage; that is, the total length of the bar will be

increased a certain amount, which will be a percent-
age of the original length.
Stress occurs because molecular forces within the
material resist the change of shape that an applied
load tends to produce. In other words, stress results
from the resistance of the molecules to being shifted
around, pulled apart, or squeezed together. Because
stress involves molecular forces, a piece of metal that
is subjected to a load develops an enormous number
of stresses, rather than just one stress. If you had more
than a very few molecules, you would have to draw
thousands or perhaps millions of arrows to indicate all
the molecular forces involved. We often speak of
stress as though it were one internal force, acting in
one direction; that is, the direction opposite to the
direction of the applied load. In other words, we con-
sider the TOTAL EFFECT of all the molecular
stresses, rather than trying to consider each set of
molecular stresses separately.

The manner in which the load is applied deter- Figure 6-1.—Tension forces and tension stresses.
mines the type of stress that will develop. Applied
forces are usually considered as being of three basic
kinds: tension (or tensile) forces, compression forces,
and shearing forces. The basic stresses, therefore, are
tension (or tensile) stresses, compression stresses, and
shearing stresses. Complex stresses such as bending
stresses and torsional stresses are combinations of two
or more of the basic stresses.


Tension stresses develop when a material is sub-

jected to a pulling action. If, for example, a cable is
fastened to an overhead clamp and a weight is at-
tached to the free end, tension stresses develop within
the cable. The tension stresses resist the tension forces
that tend to pull the cable apart. Figure 6-1 shows
tension forces and the resulting “equal and opposite”
tension stresses.

Figure 6-2.—Compression forces and compression stresses.

Compression stresses develop within a material to

oppose the forces that tend to compress or crush the SHEARING STRESS
material. A column that supports an overhead weight
is said to be in compression, and the internal stresses Shearing stresses develop within a material when
that develop within the column are compression opposite external forces are applied along parallel
stresses. Figure 6-2 shows compression forces and lines in such a way as to tend to cut the material.
compression stresses. Shearing forces tend to separate material by sliding

part of the material in the opposite direction. The TORSIONAL STRESS
action of a pair of scissors is an example of shear
forces and shear stresses. The scissors apply shear Torsional stresses develop in a material when
forces, and the material being cut resists the shear external forces are applied in such a way that they tend
forces by its internal shear stresses. Forces tending to to produce rotation. A ship’s shaft, for example,
produce shear in a rivet are illustrated in figure 6-3. rotates when the external applied forces are greater
Shear stresses are not shown, since they are than the internal torsional stresses developed in the
considerably more complex than tension stresses and shaft. Torsional stress is primarily a special form of
compression stresses. shear stress, although it may also involve some
compression stress and some tension stress.

Bending stresses develop when a material is INTERNAL STRUCTURE OF METALS

subjected to external forces that tend to bend it. When
a load is applied to a beam, for example, as shown in The atoms in all solid metals are arranged in some
figure 6-4, the upper surface is in compression and the definite geometric (or crystallographic) pattern. The
lower surface is in tension. The NEUTRAL AXIS, smallest grouping of atoms that has the complete
indicated by the broken line in figure 6-4, is neither in symmetrical arrangement of the crystal is called a unit
compression nor in tension. cell. The regular arrangement of these atoms is called
a space lattice. A unit cell is much too small to be seen.
When a great many unit cells are combined, however,
they form a visible crystal that has the same geometric
structure as the unit cell.
A number of different geometrical arrangements
of atoms are possible, but most metals have space
lattices that are basically shaped like cubes, tetragons,
Figure 6-3.—Shearing forces applied to a rivet.
or hexagons. Figure 6-5 shows the body-centered
cubic and face-centered cubic space lattices.
How do crystals form? When the metal is in the
liquid state, the atoms move freely and are not
arranged in any orderly fashion. When the metal
begins to cool, however, the atoms move more and
more slowly. When the freezing (solidifying)
temperature of the metal is reached, the atoms begin
to form unit cells of the type characteristic of the
particular metal. In this crystallization process, the
atoms give up energy in the form of heat. As this
Figure 6-4.—Load applied to a beam. energy flows from the metal, other atoms form around
each of the original unit cells in a definite pattern. This
definite and repeating pattern upon solidification is
called a space lattice. Eventually all of the metal is
changed from the liquid state, in which the atoms are
moving freely, to the solid state, in which the atoms
are arranged in a definite, orderly pattern. At this
point, we say that the metal has completely solidified
or frozen.
If crystallization could proceed without any
interference, the result would be one large crystal with
the external form of the internal space lattice. As a
Figure 6-5.—Crystal structure of iron. A. Body-centered cubic, rule, however, the space lattices do not all line up
9-atom space lattice. B. Face-centered cubic, 14-atom space perfectly with each other; this means that the growth
lattice. of some crystals interferes with the growth of others.

In other words, space lattices that are not oriented in have the typical shape of the space lattice, it is custom-
approximately the same way cannot join each other. ary to call each visible unit a grain rather than a crystal.
As a result, the crystallization process usually results The areas between adjacent grains are shown as grain
in the growth of many small crystals rather than one boundaries. The grain boundary material has somewhat
large one. In any given piece of solid metal, the size different properties than the actual grains or crystals;
of the crystals will vary. The larger ones are the result this is partly because the space lattices are distorted at
of the combination of a great many space lattices that the grain boundaries and partly because the process of
happened to line up in such a way that they could join crystallization tends to push impurities out of the crys-
each other. tals and into the grain boundaries.
The term grain structure refers to the crystalline
Because the crystals interfere with each other as
structure of the metal, often with particular reference to
they grow, a piece of metal in cross section may show
the shape and size of the grains. Figure 6-6 illustrates
very few characteristic crystal shapes. Note, however,
several types of gram structure, as seen under a micro-
that the metal is still considered crystalline even if the
scope. The size of the grains depends upon a number of
crystalline forms are distorted. The crystals are there,
factors, including the nature of the metal, the tempera-
but they are not usually perfect in shape.
ture to which it is heated, the length of time it is held at
When a metal crystallizes in such a way that the a specified temperature, and the rate at which it is cooled
crystals are not perfectly formed and therefore do not from a liquid to the solid state. In general, the quicker a
metal solidifies, the smaller the grain will be. The size
of grain structure desired for any particular application
depends upon the purpose for which the metal is to be
In alloys, the internal structure may be in the form
of crystals of pure metals, solid solutions, intermetallic
compounds, mechanical mixtures, or some combina-
tion of these structures.
In a solid solution, the elements are completely
dissolved in each other, with the atoms of each
element fitting into and forming part of the space
lattice of the other element. Figure 6-7 illustrates two

Figure 6-7.—Space lattices of two forms of solid solution. A.

Atoms of one element fit between atoms of another element.
Figure 6-6.—Grain structure in metals. B. Atoms of one element replace atoms of another element.

ways in which solid solutions may exist. The atoms of One intermetallic compound of great importance
one element may fit into the spaces between the atoms in ferrous alloys is known as IRON CARBON or
of another element, as indicated in view A; or the CEMENTITE. This is an extremely hard and brittle
atoms of one element may replace the atoms of another compound that is formed by the combination of iron
element in the space lattice, as indicated in view B. (a metal) and carbon (a metalloid). The formula for
A solid solution in a metal is similar to many iron carbide or cementite is Fe3C. This formula shows
solutions you are familiar with; for example, water that three atoms of iron combine with one atom of
dissolves salt. The result is a wet salty liquid. The taste carbon to produce iron carbide, or cementite.
of the salt and the wetness of the water have not The structure of an alloy is described as being a
changed. As you see, there has been no change of MECHANICAL MIXTURE when two or more
individual properties. However, you cannot see or structural forms are mixed together but are still
distinguish which is water or which is salt. The loss of separately distinguishable. A mechanical mixture of
individual identity is apparent. An example of a an alloy is comparable, though on a smaller scale, to
familiar solid solution is Monel metal. You know from the mixture of sand and gravel that may be seen in
experience that Monel is tough, and yet, soft and concrete.
plastic; the toughness of nickel and the plasticity of
copper have been combined in the form of a metallic One of the most important mechanical mixtures
solid solution. that occurs in many steels is known as PEARLITE.
Pearlite, so called because it has a pearly luster when
The individual elements lose their identity in a seen under a microscope, is an intimate mechanical
solid solution. A polished cross section of a material mixture of ferrite and cementite in alternate plates or
that consisted of only one solid solution would show layers. Ferrite is a solid solution, and cementite or iron
all grains to be of the same nominal composition. carbide is an intermetallic compound; in pearlite the
Ferrite and austenite are two solid solutions that two are closely mixed to form a characteristic layered
are important constituents of steel. Ferrite is the name structure.
given to a solid solution of alpha iron and carbon.
Pearlite is formed when steel that contains just
Austenite is the term for a solid solution of gamma iron
about 0.85 percent carbon is heated to a certain
and carbon. Carbon is only slightly soluble in alpha
temperature and then cooled slowly. When the entire
iron but is quite soluble in gamma iron. Alpha iron at
structure of the alloy is in the form of pearlite, this
room temperature can hold only about 0.007 percent
carbon in solid solution. At a temperature of 2065°F. composition of plain carbon steel (0.85 percent
gamma iron can hold up to about 1.7 percent carbon carbon) is often referred to as the eutectoid
in solid solution. composition, and the completely pearlitic structure is
called the EUTECTOID or the EUTECTOID
pounds formed between a metal and some other sub-
stance such as carbon or sulfur. There are many The internal structure of an alloy may show
ordinary compounds that we are familiar with in eve- various combinations of pure metals, solid solutions,
ryday life; common table salt is one. The two poison- intermetallic compounds, and mechanical mixtures.
ous elements, sodium and chlorine, when combined, Many of the combinations that are important in steels
form sodium chloride or common table salt. Salt does and other alloys are the result of controlled heating and
not resemble either sodium or chlorine, either by iden- cooling of the alloy; in other words, they are the result
tity or properties. When the two elements are com- of heat treatment. Figure 6-8 shows, very much
bined chemically, a new and different substance is enlarged, a typical combination that occurs when plain
created. Under certain conditions, intermetallic com- carbon steel containing less than 0.85 percent carbon
pounds form and a new substance with new properties is heated to a certain temperature and then cooled
is created in very much the same manner, but on a slowly. As may be seen, this combination consists of
more complicated basis. Perhaps the most important the solid solution ferrite and the mechanical mixture
thing to remember about the intermetallic compounds pearlite, each in crystal form, distributed throughout
is the loss of identity and the change in properties. The the alloy. The relative proportions of ferrite and
heat treater quite often utilizes the change in properties pearlite in this combination depend largely upon the
offered by compound formations in metals. carbon content of the alloy.

This combination contains no free crystals of ELASTICITY
ferrite; instead, it consists of crystals of pearlite
surrounded by cementite at the grain boundaries. As previously noted, a deformation or change of
shape (strain) occurs when a material is subjected to
external forces that cause stresses in the material. The
PROPERTIES OF METAL ability of a material to return to its original size and
shape after strain is the property known as elasticity.

A PHYSICAL PROPERTY is a characteristic of a All materials are elastic to some extent. It may
metal that may be observed or measured. The physical surprise you to learn that a piece of steel is more elastic
properties of steel are affected by the following: than a rubber band. The rubber band stretches more
than the steel since it is more easily strained, but the
Carbon content steel returns more nearly to its original shape and size
and is, therefore, more truly elastic. Glass is also more
Impurities elastic than rubber.
Addition of various alloying metals The greatest stress that a material is capable of
withstanding without taking a permanent set (that is
Heat treatment without becoming permanently deformed) is known
The particular properties that we require of any as the ELASTIC LIMIT. Below the elastic limit, the
metal or alloy depend upon the use we will make of amount of strain is directly proportional to the amount
the material. For example, an anchor chain must have of stress and, therefore, to the amount of externally
the property of toughness; a boiler tube must have high applied force. Above the elastic limit, however, the
tensile strength, the ability to conduct heat, and the amount of deformation that results from an increase in
ability to resist deformation or creep at high load is way out of proportion to the increase in load.
temperatures; an electric wire must be able to conduct Strain may be axial, angular, or both, depending
electricity; a knife blade must have the property of upon the nature of the applied load and the stresses
hardness; a spring must be elastic; a saltwater piping that are developed within the material to withstand the
system must resist corrosion; and a piece of metal that applied load. When the elastic limit is exceeded
is to be drawn out into a wire must possess the property through the application of an axial load, the material
known as ductility. The following sections deal with will be permanently deformed either by
some important properties of metals and alloys. ELONGATION or by COMPRESSION. When the
applied load is not axial (as in shear and torsion), the
resulting strain is angular and, if permanent
deformation results, the deformation is also angular.
As noted before, the amount of strain is propor-
tional to the amount of stress up to (or almost up to) the
elastic limit. The ratio of stress to strain is, therefore, a
constant for each material. This constant, which is
called the MODULUS OF ELASTICITY, is obtained
by dividing the stress by the strain, which is the elonga-
tion caused by that stress. For example, suppose that a
certain material is so loaded that the internal stress
developed in tension is 30,000 psi and that with this
stress the material elongates or is strained 0.0015 inch
per inch. The modulus of elasticity (E) of this material
Stress (psi)
Elongation (inch per inch)
30,000 psi
= 0.0015 inch per inch
Figure 6-8.—Typical structure of steel containing less than
0.85 percent carbon. = 20,000,000 psi

The modulus of elasticity is frequently used to considerably below its ultimate strength in tension,
determine the amount of elongation that will occur compression, or shear. For example, you can break a
when a given stress is developed in the material. For thin rod with your hands after it has been bent back
this purpose, you divide the stress by the modulus of and forth several times in the same place, although you
elasticity to obtain the elongation (inch per inch) that could not possibly cause an identical rod to fail in
will occur. tension, compression, or shear merely from force
applied by hand. This tendency of a material to fail
Closely related to the elastic limit of a material is
after repeated stressing at the same point is known as
the YIELD POINT. The yield point is the stress at
which deformation of the material first increases
markedly without any increase in the applied load. The METAL FATIGUE
yield point is always somewhat above the elastic limit.
When the stresses developed in a material are greater Metal fatigue is the tendency for a metal to break
than the yield point (or, as it is sometimes called, the under the action of repeated cyclic stresses. Fatigue
yield strength), the material is permanently deformed. may occur for values of cyclic stress considerably less
than the ultimate tensile strength of the material. This
STRENGTH phenomenon applies to certain fractures in metals that
are caused by repeated stresses of a low enough value
Strength is the property that enables a material to that a single application of the stress apparently does
resist deformation. ULTIMATE STRENGTH is the nothing detrimental to the structure. When enough of
maximum stress that a material is capable of these seemingly harmless stresses are applied in a
withstanding in tension, compression, or shear. The cyclic manner, however, they bring about a small
COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH of a metal is a measure
of how much squeezing force it can withstand before
it fails. The metal to be tested is mounted in a tensile
tester, but instead of pulling on the metal, a squeezing
(compression) force is applied. TENSILE
STRENGTH, or the ultimate strength of a material in
tension, is the term most frequently used to describe
the strength of a material. Tensile strength is the
ability of a metal to resist being pulled apart. This
property may be measured on a tensile testing
machine, which puts a stretching load on the metal.
Figure 6-9 illustrates the types of loads imposed on
Table 6-2 shows how the tensile strength,
elongation (explained below), and yield point are
affected by the carbon content of steel. As the carbon
content increases, the tensile strength and yield point
first increase then decrease.
Some materials are equally strong in compression,
tension, and shear. However, many materials show
marked differences. For example, cured portland
cement has an ultimate strength of 2,000 psi in
compression, but only 600 psi in tension. Carbon steel
has an ultimate strength of 56,000 psi in tension and
in compression, but an ultimate strength in shear of
only 62,000 psi. In dealing with ultimate strength,
therefore, the kind of loading (tension, compression,
or shear) should always be stated.
If a material is stressed repeatedly, in a cyclical Figure 6-9.—Types of stresses or loads imposed on structures:
manner it will probably fail at a loading that is compression, tension, shear, torsion, bending, and fatigue.

Table 6-2.—Approximate Physical Property Changes of Carbon Steel as the Carbon Content Changes

SAE Carbon Content in Tensile Strength Yield Point Elongation in

AlSl No. Percentages Lbs/sq. in Lbs/sq. in. Percentages
1006 .06 43,000 24,000 30
1010 -10 47,000 26,000 28
1020 .20 55,000 30,000 25
1030 .30 68,000 37,500 20
1040 .40 76,000 42,000 18
1050 .50 90,000 49,500 15
1060 .60 98,000 54,000 12
1070 .70 102,000 56,000 12
1080 .80 112,000 56,000 12
1090 .90 122,000 67,000 10
1095 .95 120,000 66,000 10

crack that grows with continued loadings until that can absorb a lot of energy before breaking.
complete fracture takes place. Toughness does not exist in metals that do not have
high tensile strength; however, metals that are both
Since the small cracks may not be noticed, the
metal may fracture with a suddenness that can be strong and hard tend to have less toughness than
dangerous, as in fast-moving vehicles or high-speed metals that are softer and have less tensile strength.
machinery. Special inspection techniques have been Toughness is definitely related to the property of
developed to spot small cracks before the material plasticity; materials must be plastic in order to be
fails. Fatigue failures are due to the repeated tough.
application of tensile stresses or shear stresses, which
tend to pull the material apart. However, a cycle that PLASTICITY
consists of alternating equal stresses in tension and
compression, called a fully reversed cycle, is usually
used to obtain the endurance limits of a particular Materials that can withstand extensive permanent
material. deformation without breaking or rupturing are said to
be highly plastic. Note the use of the word permanent
HARDNESS in this statement; the term plastic deformation is used
to indicate a PERMANENT change of shape.
The property of hardness has been defined as the Modeling clay is an example of a highly plastic
ability of a material to resist penetration. Because material since it can be deformed extensively and
there are several methods of measuring hardness, the permanently without rupturing. Clay could scarcely
hardness of a material is always specified in terms of be called tough, however, even though it is highly
the particular test that has been used to measure this plastic.
property. Plasticity is in some ways the opposite of
To get a simple idea of the property of hardness, brittleness and in other ways the opposite of elasticity.
consider lead and steel. You can scratch lead with a A material that is brittle will break without showing
pointed wooden stick, but you cannot scratch steel deformation. Such a material is not very plastic. A
with such a stick. Steel is harder than lead. material that is highly elastic will return to its original
shape after strain; consequently, such a material does
TOUGHNESS not show a high degree of plasticity (below the elastic
limit for the substance). Most metals are elastic, rather
than plastic, up to the elastic limit; above the elastic
Toughness is the property that enables a material
limit, they tend to have the property of plasticity.
to withstand shock, to endure tensile stresses, and to
be deformed without breaking. Another way of Plasticity, like many other properties, is relative.
expressing this is to say that a tough material is one To some degree, all substances are plastic. Even glass,

which is usually considered to be a nonplastic slowly at or below room temperature (so slowly, in
material, is plastic if an external force is applied to it fact, that years are required to complete a single creep
very slowly. If you want to demonstrate this to test), the importance of this type of plastic
yourself, take a sheet of glass and lay it in a horizontal deformation has not been recognized until fairly
position in such a way that it is supported only at the recent. Creep-resisting steel is now used in most
ends. Then put a weight in the middle of the glass. modem naval ships for high-temperature piping.
After several days (or possibly weeks, depending upon
the kind of glass you use), you will be able to observe BRITTLENESS
a visible deformation of the glass.
The substance known as “Silly Putty” is an even Brittleness is the opposite of ductility. A brittle
better example of the relative nature of the property of metal will fracture if it is bent or struck a sharp blow.
plasticity. When you slowly press or mold “Silly A brittle material is one that fractures before
Putty,” it is more plastic than chewing gum; throw it exhibiting any noticeable permanent deformation.
against the floor and it may either bounce like a rubber Most cast iron is very brittle.
ball or break into pieces; hit it sharply with a hammer,
and it will shatter almost like glass. CORROSION RESISTANCE
Before these properties are studied in detail, the Corrosion resistance is the property that enables a
welder should have an understanding of the effect of material to resist entering into chemical combination
carbon on the properties of steel and a knowledge of with other substances. A high degree of corrosion
alloys in general. resistance would be very desirable in all metals used
aboard ship. Most metals are easily corroded,
DUCTILITY AND MALLEABILITY however, as shown by the fact that pure metals occur
only rarely in nature.
The properties known as ductility and malleability
are special cases of plasticity. Ductility is the property The presence of impurities, or the presence of
that makes it possible for a material to be drawn out alloying elements, may greatly alter the corrosion
into a thin wire or, in other words, it is the property resistance of a metal. For example, the zinc that is
that enables the material to withstand extensive known as “commercially pure” contains a small
permanent deformation from TENSION. Ductility is amount of impurities; this grade of zinc corrodes about
the ability of a metal to be stretched. A very ductile 10,000 times as fast as zinc that is chemically pure. On
metal such as copper or aluminum may be pulled the other hand, many alloys have been developed for
through dies to form wire. Malleability is the property the particular purpose of increasing the corrosion
that makes it possible for a material to be stamped, resistance of the material. For example, pure iron
hammered, or rolled into thin sheets; a malleable would be entirely unsuitable for use in boilers because
material is one that can withstand extensive permanent it has very poor resistance to corrosion, particularly at
deformation from COMPRESSION. high temperatures; yet alloys composed primarily of
iron are used successfully for this service.
Most metals that exhibit one of these properties
also exhibit the other. However, this is not always true. WELDABILITY AND MACHINABILITY
Lead, for example, is very malleable (it can be
permanently deformed in compression without Although not strictly properties, in the sense of the
breaking), but it is not ductile (it cannot be other properties we have discussed, weldability and
permanently deformed in tension to any great extent). machinability are important practical considerations
in the fabrication or repair of any metal part.
CREEP RESISTANCE Weldability refers to the relative ease with which a
metal may be welded. Machinability describes the
The term creep describes a special kind of plastic ease with which a metal may be turned, planed, milled,
deformation that occurs very slowly at high or otherwise shaped in the machine shop. Some metals
temperatures when the material is under a constant are not easily machined because they are too hard.
stress. It is interesting to note that this stress may be Some soft metals are not easily machined because they
considerably less than the yield point of the material are too tough. Both weldability and machinability are
at room temperature. Because creep occurs very really based upon the combination of other properties

of the material, rather than being properties producing malleable cast iron. White cast iron derived
themselves. its name from the bright silvery appearance it has
when fractured. White cast iron is hard, brittle, wear
resistant, and unmachinable, largely because the
carbon it contains is present as cementite.
Metals are divided into two major fields: ferrous Gray cast iron always contains iron, carbon, and
metals and nonferrous metals. Ferrous metals are silicon, and generally contains more carbon and
those that are composed primarily of iron. Nonferrous silicon than white cast iron. Carbon is always present
metals are those that are composed primarily of some in the form of graphite flakes. In addition, gray cast
element or elements other than iron. Nonferrous iron often contains appreciable amounts of nickel and
metals or alloys sometimes contain a small amount of other alloying elements. Gray cast iron is of three
iron as an alloying element or impurity. varieties: common, high strength, and alloy. All three
are machinable and have good damping capacity
FERROUS METALS (ability to absorb and dampen vibrations). The
common gray cast irons are quite soft; the others are
Ferrous metals include all forms of iron and steel. somewhat stronger, particularly the alloy gray cast
Ferrous metals are widely used in the construction of iron. All three are brittle because the carbon they
ships. contain is largely present in graphite flakes, which act
as severe stress raisers. Whether a cast iron is gray or
Iron white depends upon the cooling rate and carbon,
silicon, and nickel content.
Commercially pure iron is known as INGOT Malleable cast iron is made by heating white
IRON. This iron is 99.85 percent iron; carbon, castings to 1700°F for about 50 hours, followed by
manganese, phosphorous, sulfur, and a trace of silicon slow cooling to room temperature. The castings are
make up the remainder. The chemical composition of packed in a neutral slag or scale during heating and
this iron is very similar to the chemical composition cooling. During the heating period, the cementite in
of the lowest carbon steel. the structure tends to decompose into ferrite plus
WROUGHT IRON was used extensively for temper carbon. Malleable cast iron is strong,
construction and even for machinery before steels machinable, and ductile. The mechanical properties of
came into use. Wrought iron is a mixture of very pure malleable cast iron compare favorably with those of
iron and silica slag. The slag gives wrought iron some low-carbon steels. Malleable cast iron is a great deal
of its desirable properties—corrosion resistance, more ductile than either white or gray cast iron.
weldability, and ductility, among others. Wrought
Nodular cast iron is produced in the same way as
iron is still used for some piping systems on auxiliary
gray cast iron, but with much closer control of
composition and with the aid of inoculating agents.
CAST IRON is produced by resmelting a charge The molten iron is inoculated with an alloy that will
of pig iron and scrap iron and removing some of the produce spherical graphite rather than flake graphite.
impurities from the molten metal by using various Nodular cast iron possesses the good machinability,
fluxing agents. There are many grades of cast iron, damping capacity, and castability of gray cast iron. Its
rated as to strength and hardness. The four major kinds strength is comparable to alloy gray cast irons and cast
of cast iron are white cast iron, gray cast iron, carbon steel. The ductility of nodular cast iron is about
malleable cast iron, and nodular cast iron. With the half that of cast steel, far better than gray cast iron.
exception of similarity between nodular and malleable
cast iron, there are considerable differences in the
properties of the various kinds of cast iron. The form Steel
in which the carbon exists (graphite or cementite) and
the mode of its distribution are chiefly responsible for
Steels and other metals are classified on the basis
the differences in properties.
of the method of manufacture, method of shaping,
White cast iron essentially consists of an alloy of method of heat treatment, properties, intended use,
iron, carbon, and silicon. It is known chiefly for its and chemical composition. In addition, certain steels
good wear resistance and as the starting point for and other metals are often referred to by trade names.

When classified according to the method of Alloy Steel
manufacture, steels are known as (I) basic, open
hearth; (2) basic, electric; (3) acid, Bessemer; (4) acid, An alloy metal may be defined as an intimate
electric; (5) acid, open hearth; or (6) basic, oxygen mixture of two or more elements. Any ferrous or
furnace. The method of manufacture has a lot to do nonferrous metal may be alloyed to form an alloy
with the properties of the finished steel, so these metal with new and desirable characteristics.
distinctions are important to metallurgists and to A simple alloy consists of two metals in any
design engineers. Since the method of manufacture is proportion. An example of a simple alloy is the
not usually important to the HT, these processes will combination of tin and lead, which is called solder.
not be discussed in this training manual. The melting temperature of the lead is 621°F (327°C).
Tin has a melting temperature of 450°F (232°C).
When classified according to the method of However, as the two metals are mixed, any
shaping, steels are often referred to as cold rolled steel, combination of the two results in a lower melting
forged steel, drawn steel, and cast steel. temperature than 621°F (327°C). At a certain
Classifying steels according to the method or proportion of the metals, the lowest melting
temperature is reached. This point is called the
methods of heat treatment leads to such terms as
annealed steel, and casehardened steel.
Steel is a combination of iron and controlled
Classifying steels according to properties gives us amounts of carbon. Alloy steels are created by adding
such classes as corrosion-resisting steels (CRES); other elements to plain carbon steel. Alloy steels are
heat-resisting steels; low-expansion steels; free- identified by the name of the alloying element or
machining or free-cutting steels; casehardening steels; elements, usually without reference to the carbon that
high tensile steels (HTS); and special treatment steel is present. Alloy steels are further identified as
(STS). low-alloy steels or high-alloy steels, depending upon
Probably the most reasonable way to classify the amount of alloying material that is present. Some
elements that are alloyed with carbon steel and the
steels is by their chemical composition. Steels that
qualities imparted to steel by each are as follows:
derive their properties primarily from the presence of
carbon are referred to merely as “steels” or sometimes CHROMIUM—Increases resistance to corrosion
as “plain carbon steels.” Steels that derive their and improves hardness, toughness, wear resistance,
properties primarily from the presence of some strength, and the responsiveness to heat treatment.
alloying element other than carbon are referred to as MANGANESE—Increases strength and
“alloys” or “alloy steels.” Note, however, that plain responsiveness to heat treatment.
carbon steels always contain some carbon. Note, also,
MOLYBDENUM—Increases toughness and
that the use of the word alloy should not really be improves the strength of steel at higher temperatures.
limited to mean an alloy steel, since there are many
alloys that contain no iron at all and are, therefore, not NICKEL—Increases strength, ductility, and
steels. toughness.
TUNGSTEN—Produces dense, fine grains; helps
steel to retain its hardness and strength at high
Plain Carbon Steel temperatures.
SILICON—Improves the electrical quality of the
Plain carbon steels vary in carbon content from steel.
about 0.05 percent to as much as 1.70 percent carbon.
VANADIUM—Retards grain growth and
The properties of the steel depend upon the amount of
improves toughness.
carbon present and the particular way in which the iron
and the carbon combine. The plain carbon steels are NONFERROUS METALS
known (in increasing order of the amount of carbon
present) as mild steel, low-carbon steel, medium- Although ferrous metals are used aboard ship
carbon steel, high-carbon steel, and very-high-carbon in greater quantities than the nonferrous metals, the
steel. nonferrous metals are nevertheless of great

importance. Copper, zinc, lead, and a large number of Tin
nonferrous alloys are required in the construction and
maintenance of naval ships. Some of the more popular Tin is seldom used aboard ship in its pure state,
nonferrous metals a welder encounters are copper, but it has many important uses as an alloying element.
brass, zinc, bronze, lead, and aluminum. Tin and lead are used together to make soft solders;
tin and copper are used together to make bronze. Tin
The various welding processes now make it
and tin-based alloys have, in general, a high resistance
possible to satisfactorily weld practically all
to corrosion.
nonferrous metals.
True brass is an alloy of copper and zinc.
Copper is one of the most important nonferrous Additional elements—aluminum, lead, tin, iron,
metals used in the construction of a ship. It is used in manganese, or phosphorous—may be added to give
the form of sheets, tubing, wires, and in copper alloys the alloy specific properties. Rolled naval brass (also
such as brass and bronze. It is used to give a protective known as Tobin bronze) is about 60 percent copper,
coating to other metals, and to fabricate many special 39 percent zinc, and 0.75 percent tin. This type of brass
parts. is highly resistant to corrosion.
The properties of copper make it extremely useful Brass sheets and strips are available in grades
for many applications. It is easy to work; it is ductile, known as soft, 1/4 hard, 1/2 hard, full hard, and spring.
malleable, tough, strong, resistant to wear, and Hardness is imparted to the brass by the process of
machinable. Copper is highly resistant to saltwater cold rolling. Most grades of brass can be made softer
corrosion and is an excellent conductor of both heat by annealing the metal at a temperature of 800° to
and electricity. Copper seams are usually joined by 1200°F.
riveting, brazing, or soldering.
A bronze made of 84 percent copper and 16
percent tin was the best metal available for tools,
Zinc is used as a protective coating (galvanizing) weapons, and so on, before techniques were developed
on steel and iron. Zinc is also used in the form of zinc for making steel. Many complex bronze alloys,
chloride for soldering fluxes and as an alloying containing additional elements such as zinc, lead, iron,
element in some brass and bronze. aluminum, silicon, and phosphorous are now
High-purity zinc, in the form of sheets, rods, or available. The name bronze is now applied to any
special shapes, is used to protect hulls, hull fittings, copper-base alloy that looks like bronze; in many
and many types of machinery from the effects of cases, there is no longer a real distinction to be made
galvanic action. between bronze and brass.

Aluminum and Aluminum Alloys

Aluminum and aluminum alloys are widely used
Lead is probably the heaviest metal that you will because they are lightweight, easily worked, and
ever use on board ship. Lead weighs about 700 pounds strong in relation to their weight. There are now so
per cubic foot, but in spite of its weight, it is soft and many different types of aluminum alloys in use that a
malleable. Lead is commonly supplied in sheet form, special numbering system has been adopted for these
rolled up on a rod. To use it, you merely unroll it and alloys.
cut off as much as you need.
Because of its softness, lead is often used as a IDENTIFICATION OF METALS
backing material for punching and hammering
operations. Sheet lead is used to line sinks and to Material is used daily and, normally, there will be
protect bench tops that are exposed to acids. Lead is some material left over. Quite often the means of
also used as a radiation shield. marking the material was cut off, or worn off, leaving

the material to a guessing game as to what type of In trying to identify a piece of metal by its surface
material it is. Granted, it is best to make out a tag with appearance, consider both the color and the texture of
all the important information as to the type of material, the surface. Table 6-3 gives the surface colors of some
the alloy composition, and possibly the stock number common metals.
of that material. Even then, tags are subject to being
lost. Therefore, let us look at the various ways to
identify the material according to surface appearance IDENTIFICATION TESTS
and identification tests.
If the surface appearance of a metal does not give
enough information to allow adequate identification,
metal identification tests are necessary. A number of
such tests are used. Some of these tests are complicated
and require equipment that you are not likely to have.
It is possible to identify several metals by their Others, however, are relatively simple and quite reliable
surface appearance. Although examination of the when performed by a skilled person. The following tests
surface does not usually give you enough information are the most common for shop use:
to classify the metal exactly, it will often give you
enough information to allow you to identify the group Spark test (with the power grinder)
to which the metal belongs. Even this much Oxyacetylene torch test
identification is helpful since it will limit the number
of tests required for further identification. Fracture test

Table 6-3.—Surface Colors of Some Common Metals

Color test
Density or specific gravity test
Ring or sound of the metal upon impacting
with some other metal
Magnetic test
Chip test

Spark Test

The spark test is made by holding a sample of the

material against a power grinder. The sparks given off,
or the lack of sparks, assist in identifying the metal.
The length of the spark stream, its color, and the type
of sparks are the features for which you should look.
There are four fundamental spark forms produced
by holding a sample of metal against a power grinder.
(See fig. 6-10.) View A shows shafts, buds, breaks,
and arrows. The arrow or spearhead is characteristic
of molybdenum, an alloying element in steel. When
swelling or buds are present in the spark line, nickel Figure 6-10.—Fundamental spark forms.
is also present as an alloying element with
molybdenum. View B shows shafts and sprigs, or
sparklets, which indicate a high carbon content. View to suppress the effect of the carbon burst. However,
C shows shafts, forks, and sprigs that indicate a the nickel spark can be identified by tiny blocks of
medium carbon content. View D shows shafts and brilliant white light. Silicon suppresses the carbon
forks that indicate a low carbon content. burst even more than nickel. When silicon is present,
the carrier line usually ends abruptly in a white flash
The greater the amount of carbon present in the
of light.
steel, the greater the intensity of bursting that will take
place in the spark stream. To understand the cause of To make the spark test, hold the piece of metal
the bursts, remember that while the spark is glowing against the wheel in such a manner as to throw the spark
and in contact with the oxygen of the air, the carbon stream about 12 inches at a right angle to your line of
present in the particle is burned to carbon dioxide. As vision. You will need to spend a little time to discover
the solid carbon combines with oxygen to form carbon at just what pressure you must hold the sample to get a
dioxide in the gaseous state, the increase in volume stream of this length without reducing the speed of the
builds up a pressure that is relieved by an explosion of grinder. It is important that you do not press too hard
the particle. An examination of the small steel because the pressure will increase the temperature of the
particles under a microscope when they are cold spark stream and the burst. It will also give the appear-
reveals a hollow sphere with one end completely ance of a higher carbon content than that of the metal
blown away. actually being tested. After practicing to get the feel of
Steels having the same carbon content but correct pressure on the wheel until you’re sure you have
differing alloying elements are not always easily it, select a couple of samples of metal with widely
identified because alloying elements affect the carrier varying characteristics; for example, low-carbon steel
lines, the bursts, or the forms of characteristic bursts and high-carbon steel. Hold first one then the other
in the spark picture. The effect of the alloying element against the wheel, always being careful to strike the
may retard or accelerate the carbon spark or make the same portion of the wheel with each piece. With your
carrier line lighter or darker in color. Molybdenum, eyes focused at a point about one-third of the distance
for example, appears as a detached, orange-colored, from the tail end of the stream of sparks, watch only
spearhead on the end of the carrier line. Nickel seems those sparks that cross the line of vision. You will find

that after a little while, you will form a mental image of
the individual spark. After you can fix the spark image
in mind, you are ready to examine the whole spark
Notice that the spark stream is long (about 70 inches
normally) in low-carbon steel, and that the volume is
moderately large; while in high-carbon steel, the stream
is shorter (about 55 inches) and larger in volume. The
few sparklers that may occur at any place in low-carbon
steel are forked, while in high-carbon steel the sparklers
are small and repeating, and some of the shafts may be
forked. Both will produce a white spark stream.
White cast iron produces a spark stream approxi-
mately 20 inches in length (see fig. 6-11). The volume
of sparks is small with many small and repeating spar-
klers. The color of the spark stream close to the wheel
is red, while the outer end of the stream is straw colored.
Gray cast iron produces a stream of sparks about 25
inches in length. It is small in volume with fewer
sparklers than white cast iron. The sparklers are small
and repeating. Par