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Schematics in PDF format PCB in Protel Easyedit 2.06 format PCB in Protel Easyedit 2.06 format (as above) WinZipped Parts list in ascii text
The Protel MS-DOS freeware software can be downloaded as ZIP-File from Protel Site.
ETI Project 561 Simple, Sensitive Metal Detector Phil Wait Electronics Today International
Faraday Shield
To remove the effect of capacitance to the search coil it is enclosed in a Faraday shield. The field consists of a wrapping of aluminium foil around the coil but broken at one point so it does not make a shorted turn. This shield is then connected to the ground potential of the detector.
Construction
The search coil is mounted on a 165 mm diameter plastic pot stand. The connection to the search coil is via a length of shielded cable. The search coil is wound so that it can be tucked inside the rim of the up-turned plastic pot stand. First make a cardboard former of the appropriate diameter. Wind then the coil into this former. The coil contains 70 turns of 0.4 mm enameled wire. Wind two layers of insulation tape around the coil leading the ends out at the same place. Next wind the Faraday shield. Cut some aluminium kitchen foil into 15 mm wide strips and wind over the coil to make two layers but leaving a small gap about 5 mm to 10 mm wide where the coil ends come out. Wind a length of tinned copper wire around the shield. Wind it tight with around 10 mm between successive turns. The end of this wire is taken out at the same place as the coil connections. Now wind another two layers of insulation tape around the whole assembly. Drill a hole in the side of the pot stand and the press the coil down into the rim. Pass the wires thru the hole. Pour epoxy over the coil to hold it in place. Solder the coil connections to the twin shielded cable, the Faraday shield connecting to the cable's shield, and glue the cable and wires underneath the pot stand to hold them rigid.
9, 1998
Bill Of Materials
September
9, 1998
23:17:11
Page
Item Quantity Reference Part ____________________________________________________________ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2 4 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 BT2,BT1 C1,C4,C6,C8 C2 C3 C5 C7 IC2,IC1 IC4,IC3 L1 Q1,Q2 RV1 RV2 RV3 R5,R1 R2 R3 R4 R6 R7 R8,R9 SP1 S1 Y1 9V IEC 6F22 100nF 1nF polystyrene 4.7nF polystyrene 47pF 10p 4001 4013 80r 0.5mm BC548 10k LIN 100k LIN 100k LOG 100 1k 100k 1M 10M 22k 4.7k 8 ohm SWITCH 3.2768MHz
Go Back to My
I NO LONGER will give Any help to persons that did Not Buy at least the Basic Kit of parts from me.
As Too many persons make Substitutions or Errors, than expect me to solve there mistakes.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
instead of TL081's, I have found some detectors Won't adjust propery with VR1, using the Current Resistor values. So I have changed R18 to 4K7 and R19 to 1K. This will correct this problem for Both these IC's. But if your using the TL081, there is no reason to make this change. Also Changing R26 to a 33K will give a better adjustment range for VR2.
This detector Features Either a Single Coil Metal Detector, Or 2 possible Dual Coil Configurations! You Choose which you want. *Click Here, Pictures of My Metal Detector Project, Built by Others *Click Here, Some Comparison Test Results, by Dave in Australia Warning: I Do Not Recommend this project for the "Beginner",
It definately Requires Good Soldering Skills and at least a basic working knowledge of electronics is Needed. Before Testing the Completed Unit Wash the board to Remove All Flux Residue. IT WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY IF YOU DON'T! It is Also Recommended to use a Current Regulated Power Supply when first testing this unit. (Less than 300 Ma. is quite satisfactory) Excessive Current, generating heat, will Distroy the REG1117A. Failing a Regulated Supply, a 60 Watt/110 volt standard light bulb can be placed in series with the positive battery lead. This should limit current to a reasonable level, preventing any damage to parts.
(Where only 220 volt bulbs are available, use a 150 watt bulb or two 75 watts in parallel works well.)
However, If you build this project and have problems, I will offer you as much assistance as possible in e-mails, Even to the extent of Free Repairs, Not Including Postage Charges and Possibly subject to replacement parts cost. (No parts charges will be made, without prior confirmation from that person, and most I haven't even charged for the parts.)
Note: This metal Detector was Not specifically designed to Detect Gold Nuggets.
Additionally, The only metal that I have found that my metal detector will NOT DETECT is some Better Qualities of "Stainless Steel". I Didn't know why! Here is a Much Appreciated explaination from one of my readers: Well the reason why you can't detect it is because the conductivity of Stainless is very low. This is true for all pulse induction metal detectors. Because of the low conductivity, the eddy currents have disipated by the time the pulse delay has ended and you begin to sample the signal. The lower the conductivity of the metal, the faster the eddy currents disipate. If I remember right the conductivity of copper is 100, the conductivity of stainless steel is about 1.3 or so. The conductivity of silver is 108 so its the best on range. Gold is in the 60 to 80 range depending on the alloy. The longer the pulse delay on your detector is, the less likely you will be able to pick up lower conductive metals. Hope this helps. Good luck, Charles
A Note from me: Well I was aware of the Delay times, I didn't realize that stainless was so low in conductivity. Thanks Charles!
If You Have PROBLEMS when you build this Unit? Don't Overlook Anything! Some Guys Problems Click Here to read them
**This project is offered totally Free for those who are interested in it. I have tried to make this article as complete as possible, but I will Not assume any liability for any "Errors or Omissions" in this article. If Needed, I will attempt to help you as much as possible with any problems. However I have no control of your abilities or skills, so build it totally at your own risk! This unit is Extremely Stable, and features three possible configurations with the coils, as listed below. I can supply a small Pizo Transducer that works Excellent well on this unit.
Here is A Very Simple Coil that Will Work, At least for testing purposes.
the Circuit board from me or not! As of May 2003, Well over 200 units have been built with boards from me, and From Replies recieved none have been unsatisified with it. I am also aware of a few who have built this detector using boards they made themselves.
These values are for a 200 uA Meter, but if you double the two resistor values for a 100 Ua meter or Quadruple these values for a 50 Ua meter, this should also work fine.
NOTE: On this Newest Circuit Board, R32 is above the IC, Not beside it as shown here.
Calibration and Setup Procedures (Revised Mar 15 2010 Parts List (Revised Mar 6 2006) Updated Coil Winding Info "UPDATED"Some technical Info and coil pics,
Revised April 5 2004
Chemelec
*Copyright 2002 & 2009*