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August 2011 Vol.31 No.4

INTERNATIONAL

LIVING
INSIDE THIS ISSUE Easiest Places in the World to Retire How to Buy a Beach House in Brazil for $15,000 Fly Free An Airfare Junkies Guide Pick an Offshore Haven7 Tips Trek Bolivias Unknown Inca Trail
P. 18 P. 6 P. 12 P. 21 P. 29

Plus

GLOBETROTTER LIFESTYLE PROFILES CALENDAR REAL ESTATE CLASSIFIEDS

E LIV O S T P. 18 T PO AS, S Y RSE AS E E OV 7 IN

INTERNATIONAL LIVING Contents


AUGUST 2011

From the Editor International Dates Savvy Traveler Market Watch Retirement Lifestyle Living the Dream Travel for Free Health Solutions Insider Intelligence Real Estate Cover Story Investment Offshore Exploration Entrepreneur Profile Calendar of Events Travel Travel Property Picks Classifieds The Last Word

2 3 5 6 8 9 12 13 14 15 16 18 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 33 36

Why easy destinations make sense Drink beer, fling tomatoes, race pigs An ancient village of classic France How to get a beach home in Brazil for $15,000 Why were raising our daughter in colonial Mexico Retirement adventures in Ecuador, Nicaragua and Honduras An airfare junkies guide to flying for free A new smile, a Costa Rican vacation and savings of $8,600 Tips for creating your own business overseas The insiders guide to enjoying Santiago, Dominican Republic Revealed: Nicaraguas latest beach bargains Seven easy, affordable retirement spots How to profit from power in Brazil What to ask yourself when choosing an offshore haven Discover Boca Chica, Panamas still-hidden paradise Tapping into the middle-class market in Ecuador Explore the secrets of Costa Rica Wandering Alfama: Lisbons oldest neighborhood Trek Bolivia: A Machu Picchu alternative Vacation homes close to the U.S. Opportunities from around the world Is the easiest place the right place for you?

International Living (ISSN 0277-2442), Copyright 2011 by International Living Publishing Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Protected by copyright laws of the United States and international treaties. This Magazine may only be used pursuant to the subscription agreement and any reproduction, copying, or redistribution (electronic or otherwise, including on the world wide web), in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Waterford, Ireland. International Living is published monthly. Subscriptions: In the United States US$69 for one year, in Canada C$89 for one year, elsewhere US$89 for one year. Printed in the USA. Postmaster: Send address changes to International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. Copies of this magazine are not available on newsstands but are furnished directly to the public by mail subscriptions only. International Living presents information and research believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. There are many dangers associated with international travel and investment, and readers should investigate any opportunity fully before committing to it. How to contact us: Customer service: To place an order for a product/subscription, renew a subscription, pay a maintenance fee, change an address, follow up on the status of an order, or inquire about a missed issue, etc., see: www.internationalliving.com/about-il/customer-service. Editorial ofces: Editors, International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., fax (353)51-304-561. For our writers guidelines, see: www.internationalliving.com/about-il/write-for-il. International Living is happy to receive manuscripts on speculation, but the publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts received for review. All editorial requests will be reviewed and considered when we plan our issues. Not all requests, however, can be answered personally due to the volume of inquiries we receive. Media inquiries: For all press and media enquiries and to discuss syndication, contact Associate Editor, Carol Barron, tel. (772) 678 - 0287, email: CBarron@InternationalLiving.com.
AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

FROM THE EDITOR

Why You Should or Shouldnt


RETIRE SOMEPLACE EASY

HE EASIEST PLACES IN THE WORLD TO RETIRE didnt strike me as controversial. So the riot of emails from our editors surprised me. This one lobbied for destination A. That one countered with B. And a third stood rm: Why are we telling people to take the easy route anyway? Its overrated. (This last line of thinking unfolds in full on page 36.) Me? I think when it comes to living overseas, it makes sense to pick a place where some expat infrastructure exists. Especially if its the rst time youve done it and youre considering the developing world (because thats where the best values are). Im talking about restaurants, shops that stock a few familiar items, comfortable apartments or houses for rent, access to good healthcare, and a certain proximity to home, too. When you have those things, life is easier. And that frees you up to enjoy it more. I guarantee: Wherever you go, the local understanding of time, quality, and efciency will not match what youre used to. But when youre living in a nice home and you can go out for a good meal and you sometimes bump into a fellow expat on the streetwell, those inevitable frustrations loom less large. I speak from experience here. Fresh out of college, the Peace Corps dropped me in a sandy village at the northern tip of a down-and-out island between Madagascar and Mozambique. Sufce it to say: No expat infrastructure. At 22, I didnt care. Heck, Id signed up for the adventure. But I have to be honest, two years in I was desperate for water that came out of a tap, milk that wasnt powdered, and just a little bit of conversation in my mother tongue So I stand by the destinations we bring you this month on page 18. In thesethe easiest places in the world to retirelife is just convenient enough that you can relax and enjoy the adventure
Jennifer Stevens, Executive Editor

August 2011, Volume 31, Number 4 InternationalLiving.com


Founding Publisher William Bonner Publisher Jackie Flynn Executive Editor Jennifer Stevens Managing Editor Eoin Bassett Editorial Assistant Robert Carry Copy Editor Glynna Prentice Photo Editor Hugo Ghiara Web Master Ciaran McGrath Contributing Editors Bob Bauman, Darius Fisher, Lee Harrison, Steenie Harvey, Suzan Haskins, Chris Hunter, Paul Lewis, Rob Marstrand, Ronan McMahon, Erika Nolan, Glynna Prentice, Dan Prescher, Jessica Ramesch, Margaret Summereld Advertising Margaret ODowd fax (353)51-304-561 email: modowd@internationalliving.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

AUGUST 2011

IN T E RNAT ION A L DATES

Drink Beer, Fling Tomatoes, Race Pigs


By Darius Fisher

JOERG KOSLOWSKI/iSTOCK

n the West, we have Valentines Day. In Hong Kong, they have the Seven Sisters Festival. Kicking off on the seventh day of the seventh moon (August 6), single girls attempt to woo potential suitors by weaving, offering fruit, and waving incense near the famous Lovers Stone. Forget Oktoberfestthe International Berlin Beer Festival is August 5 to 7. The event claims to feature the worlds biggest beer garden, at an impressive 1.3 miles long. Along with live bands, food, and 2,000 beers, the city expects over 800,000 visitors, so be sure to get your seat at the table early. If you cant make it to Germanys capital, head to Manching August 26 to 29 for Barthelmarkt, another beer festival and fair with roots traceable to the 1st century BC. August 10 to 12 and 25 to 27 Sanlcar de Barrameda in Cdiz province, Spain, hosts horse racing on the beach. Racehorses gallop along the mouth of the Guadalquivir River in front of thousands of onlookers. This thrilling spectacle has taken place since 1845. Embrace the bizarre at La Pourcailhade in Trie-sur-Baise, France, a day-long pig-centric event. Held on August 14 and organized by the Brotherhood of the Pig, the festival celebrates everything porcine. Were talking sausage displays, pig races and, most famously, a pig-squealing championship where competitors make pig noises for prizes. Las Morismas de Brachoa reenactment of a battle between Moors and Christianstakes place August 28 to 30. This event, strangely popular among both Mexicans and visitors, dates back over 300 years. The event features costumed warriors staging a theatrical battle in the city of Zacatecas, in Mexicos Colonial Highlands. This city, once the silvermining headquarters of colonial Mexico, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here is one for the worlds tomato loversLa Tomatina starts on August 31 in Buol in the province of Valencia, Spain. This town of 9,000 swells with over 30,000 visitors for an hour-long tomato ght. Eid Ul-Fitr, celebrating the end of Ramadan throughout the Muslim world,

falls on August 31 this year. Guadalajara International Mariachi & Rodeo Festival will be held the rst week of September. The worlds diaspora of mariachi singers is set to converge on Jaliscos capital state (and the capital of mariachi) for this week-long celebration. The Birdsville Races will be held September 2 to 3 in the Simpson Desert in Queensland, Australia. With a history dating back to 1882, the event features 12 horse races and prizes of upwards of

$110,000. September 15 is Costa Rican Independence Day. Expect parades and kid-friendly festivities to mark the day this country gained independence from Spanish rule in 1821. Fiesta San Miguel starts September 29 in Unca, near Potos, Bolivia, and features Tinku dancing; a form of dance combat particular to the region. Beware the cavorting can get dangerous.

IL s Best
Our 10 Favorite University Towns in Latin America
By the staff of International Living
Antigua, Guatemala Arequipa, Peru Concepcin, Chile Crdoba, Argentina Cuenca, Ecuador Guanajuato, Mexico Len, Nicaragua Loja, Ecuador Morelia, Mexico Xalapa, Mexico

The mountain of El Misti stands over the town of Arequipa in Southern Peru.

lmost anyone whos ever lived in a university town can tell you that they offer a great quality of life. All those students keep the town vibe young and lively. And a good university practically guarantees plenty of culture, from concerts and dance to art exhibits, theater, and lecture series (a great way to practice your foreign-language skills if youre an expat). Plus, depending on the university, you may even nd good sports facilitiesand a decent local team to support. Thanks to these benets, university towns can offer you big-city sophistication with smalltown friendliness and convenience. Thats why we asked our editors and experts to select 10 of Latin Americas best

university towns. From the cobbled lanes of Antigua, Guatemala, to the canal-bank walks of Crdoba, Argentina, these towns dont just offer you a great lifestyle but a lowercost of living, too. And theres something for everyone on this list If you like mountains, then try Loja, Ecuador, 6,700 feet above sea level in the Andes, with an average temperature of 60 to 69 F. For botanical delights and ancient Olmec wonders, check out Xalapa in the Mexican state of Veracruz, and if you fancy a new cuisine culture, try Alpaca steaks in the southern Peruvian town of Arequipa. For more information on all of our picks, see: Intliving.com/unitowns.
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G LO BETR OT T E R
News & Notes from Around the World

On the Cover This Month


ranada, Nicaragua, is among the hemispheres most beautiful and original Spanish-colonial settlements. Granada Cathedral has towered over its historic center since 1583. Traditional, courtyard-style colonial homes line its colorful network of narrow streets and alleyways. But Granadas colonial charm belies a surprising collection of 21st-century delights hidden among the adobe faades and leafy courtyards. As ox carts slowly pull their burdens along the streets outside, you can enjoy international restaurants and cafs, practice yoga, study Spanish, and even shop for Englishlanguage books A well-established and upbeat expat community here can attest to the many benets of living in Granada. And, in fact, weve chosen it as one of the worlds easiest places to retire Read more on page 18.

DAVINCI/DREAMSTIME.COM

The cathedral in Granada, Nicaragua, anchors a bustling plaza.

Take WiFi with You


Despite leaps in technology, getting fast, reliable wireless Internet service while traveling can still be a hassle. Thats changing, though. And the MiFi device is at the forefront of this revolution. The MiFi creates a portable wireless hub by connecting to the local 3G cell-phone network. With the click of a button this gadget (about the size of a thick credit card) boots up in 30 seconds and allows you and up to ve others to surf the web. On a recent trip to Ireland, IL Editor Darius Fisher rented one of these devices from Xcom Global. For $17.95 per day, the company sends you the device, a charger, and all the AC converters youll ever need in a handy pouch. When he arrived at his B&B in Dublin, Darius booted up the MiFi. Almost instantly he had a WiFi signal. And Xcoms convenient service allows you to connect without a cell phone contract or data limits. The drawback of Xcom is that you need multiple MiFis if youre going to travel to multiple countries. But if youre in need of reliable WiFi on the road, Xcom Globals rental service is an excellent option. See: XcomGlobal.com.

Free Layovers in Panama


In an effort to attract more globetrotters to Panama, Copa Airlines and the countrys tourism department are giving Copa passengers with connecting ights at Tocumen International Airport the opportunity to stay over in Panama for no additional cost. According to stats provided by the airport, almost 1.5 million people made connections between January and September of last year. To take advantage of this promotion, all you need to do when booking your ight is tell Copa that youd like to stay over a few nights and explore Panama.

Florida to Mexico by Ferry

Easy Panama Banking


Opening a bank account as a non-resident American has become harder in recent years. Banks that accept U.S. deposits are burdened with extra paperwork by U.S. tax ofcials. Some banks just stopped accepting altogether. But HSBC in Panama will open accounts for non-residents and Panamanian companies. Other jurisdictions may offer stronger banking-secrecy laws, but Panama still makes good sense if youre simply interested in having part of your wealth outside the States. HSBC offers multicurrency accounts, mortgages, international bank wires, auto loans, and credit and debit cards, all within a user-friendly Internet banking interface. The minimum initial deposit is $1,000 and must be made by certied bank check. Deposits of over $50,000 must be accompanied by documents proving the origin and purpose of funds. And for larger deposits, the bank may request an in-person interview. To open an account, each signatory must provide copies of his or her passport and drivers license and bank and personal reference letters along with the application. See: Hsbc.com.pa.

Next time youre planning a trip to the white-sand beaches of southern Mexico, forget the stresses of ying and travel in Old-World style on a relaxing ocean cruise instead. United Caribbean Line has announced plans to run a car and pedestrian ferry between Tampa, Florida, and an unnamed port somewhere on Mexicos Yucatn Peninsula. Details havent been nalized, but service is due to begin in early 2012. The ferry will be able to handle 1,000plus passengers, hundreds of cars, and will take around 30 hours to cross the Gulf of Mexico. During 2002, Yucatn Express ran a line between Tampa and Cancn and then Mrida. However, service halted in early 2003. United Caribbean will charge $350 for a round trip with a cabin and meals.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

AUGUST 2011

ATANAS BOZHIKOV/DREAMSTIME.COM

The Savvy Travelers Corner

Nosing around Bergerac rac


Steenie Harvey
o this is his mighty protuberance. Its impressive. But although the lovesick Cyrano de Bergerac found it hard to get the girl, a nose that size must be useful for snifng out delectable wines and cheeses... This is the second Cyrano statue Ive found within ve minutes. Im in Bergerac, a medieval town in the Dordogne departement of Aquitaine, France. Although neither the ctional nor the real Cyrano de Bergerac (a Parisian duellist, libertine and satirist) has any connection with the town, locals have enthusiastically adopted him. I walk down through the old quarter toward the Dordogne River. Its a meander through streets of stone and half-timbered houses that once belonged to boatmen and barrel-makers. Everywhere breathes history; most corners are scented with owers. One especially charming spot is Place Plissire where medieval merchants once traded animal skins and leather around its fountain. Bergerac isnt unknown to foreign visitorsBordeaux is only an hours drive westyet I havent heard any American accents. But if classic rural France appeals to you, check out this part of Dordogne valley. Chateaux (castles) and time-standsstill villages wait around almost every bend of the river. The land is striped with sunower elds and vineyards that produce the heady scarlet-purple nectar of Bergerac appellation wines. The old market square of Place Youre also spoiled for Plissire, Bergerac. choice for good restaurants. Many offer a menu du joura set three-course lunch for around $17. For a splurge, a lovely place for dinner on a summer evening is under the mulberry trees in Le St Jacques enclosed garden (30, rue Saint James). The grilled duck breast with a sauce of Agen prunes and thyme-avored summer vegetables is sublime. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the countryside comes to town. At the outdoor market wrapped around the church of Notre Dame, youll nd melons and sweet garriguette strawberries... duck products such as foie gras and cont...walnut oil and artisanmade bread...more types of sausages and cheeses than you ever imagined. Many stall-holders offer free tastings. For travelers, Bergerac makes a great base for exploring. For home-hunters, too. Ive spotted a number of village houses with gardens in this area for $196,000 to $290,000.
AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

LAWRENSE WESLOWSKI JR/DREAMSTIME.COM

Belizeans party for most of September every year.

BelizeIts One Big Party

riendly, English-speaking locals, exotic wildlife and an implausibly beautiful coastline Belize has a lot to recommend it at any time of year. But if its a party youre after, then September might just be the best month to visit. The Caribbean country marks its independence with a full three weeks of celebrations leading up to Belize Independence Day itself, which falls on September 21. In other words, almost the entire month of September is A celebration one big party. Things really of history, music, kick into gear on culture, and food. September 10, the rst national holiday of the monththe Battle of St Georges Caye Day. Cities and towns erupt into a riot of color as Belizeans and visitors of all ages take to the streets to celebrate the countrys history, music, culture and food. Good deals on accommodation shouldnt be hard to nd as its storm season. A string of events take place including the Queen of the Bay beauty pageant, a carnival, parade, childrens talent show, rework display and range of live musical concerts. Buildings are decorated in the red, white and blue of Belizes ag while partygoers dance and sing day and night to soca and punta musicso dont expect too many early nights.

STEENIE HARVEY

MA RKET WATC H

Buying a $15,000 Beach House in Brazil Isnt EasyHeres How


By Ronan McMahon
road petals explode in orange and red up the freshly painted wall. This little home, a labor of love, fronts onto a small ower garden in the shade of palm and fruit trees. As I stroll past en route to a neighboring boutique hotel, I peer through the front door. I can see the ocean through the house, sparkling and glinting in the sun. Only a few palm trees and some grasses separate this house from the beach. A couple repair shing nets in the shade. An older man sways in a hammock. Behind, children on the beach control a soccer ball...barefoot... This is Brazil, after all. The beach here, west of Fortaleza in the countrys northeast, is wide and white. The ocean is blue and ideal for swimming, snorkeling and kite surng. This is a great place to kick back for a dayor longer. Next door (there are no high walls) a young English couple hosts honeymooners and kite surfers in their boutique hotel. They searched Brazils coast before planting their ag here. My lunch of freshly-caught sh on their beachfront deck is outdone only by the views and sounds of waves crashing on sand. The only interruption is the odd kite surfer drifting by. The neighbor in his hammock has the same view. Guajiru

Lagoinha, Brazil, is just one of the countrys many stunning beaches. without the tender care and attention. A quick call to the vendor and we learn the asking price is $15,000. Wow. A home in a safe, charming beach village for $15,000. Admittedly its in need of some attention. The front of the house could do with being blasted by a powerhose and then caressed with a paintbrush. Inside, the concrete oor and walls could be brought to life with colorful local tiles. The roof looks okay, but best to come back during the next downpour and see how it is holding up. But this is an anomaly. In the game of international real estate we look for anomalies: Things that are misunderstood or under-appreciated. We can prot from these anomalies. I was here looking at the site for a planned new condo project. This nd was an unexpected discovery. It felt like I was drilling for oil and struck gold. Pure gold How to Prot The beaches west of Fortaleza in northeast Brazil stretch to the horizon. You can drive for hours along these beaches.

Paracuru

BRAZIL BRAZIL
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He probably had the same sh for lunch. They may have even come from his nets. A short dune-buggy ride up the coast takes you to another boutique hotel. A nights stay here could set you back $1,500. Thats how stunning this coast is. Stylish Europeans choose to vacation here over their rivieras. Some stay on permanently and serve gourmet meals or open little posadas. The village roads here are of wellmaintained cobblestones. A team of men is busily working on upgrading the town center and building a new community area. The North Atlantic Ocean village is safe and the locals friendly. Close Taiba by, I spot one of these little concrete village homes. Vende-se (for sale) and a phone number are written on Lagoinha Cumbuco the wall. Its the same type of house as the Fortaleza one I walked past, but
AUGUST 2011

I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

LUCILA DE AVILA CASTILHO/DREAMSTIME.COM

You are only interrupted where little rivers meet the ocean. Here a local is always on hand with a makeshift ferry to pull you across. Charming shing villages with cobbled streets and well-maintained town centers sit just off the beach. Youll struggle to nd more charming beach towns than Cumbuco, Paracuru, Lagoinha or Guajiru where this little village home is. The beaches around Fortaleza are Brazils biggest domestic tourism destination. Brazilians typically vacation to the east of the city. They prefer to be in gated communities away from these little villages. They dont want shermen for neighbors. They want to vacation or have a weekend retreat somewhere that will elevate their status. They dont see any value in these little homes. Buying one isnt easy. To nd one thats for sale you need to pound the streets and knock on doors. To buy you have to respectfully sit down over ice-cold coconut water with the owner. He needs to like youor he either wont sell or will double the price. Its because of this anomaly that we have this opportunity. These little homes are misunderstood, underappreciated, and buying them takes some work. Europeans and North Americans would buy these little homes as a second home or for retirement if it was made easy for them. Today, the foreigners who buy here buy mostly in beachfront condo projects. Here, a nice condo of 800 to 1,000 square feet overlooking the water will set you back $250,000 or more. And, youll also have monthly maintenance fees of around $150. Many of these homes that come on the market are in need of some work. Thats something few second-home buyers here want to take on. On a recent Real Estate Trend Alert scouting trip our group was buzzing with ideas on how we could prot from this anomaly. First, we could buy one (or more) of these little homes and wait for them to come in vogue. But the real opportunity is for someone to come down here, buy a bunch of these little homes, renovate them and market them to foreigners. Renovation costs of course will vary based on the condition of the house (the foundation and roof in particular) and the standard you are aiming for. Find a house

Brazils Best Beach Towns


umbuco is a special little beach town. The pace of life is slow. The streets are lined with little shermens homes. Blooming owers crawl over freshly painted exteriors. For neighbors, the shermens homes have Italian restaurants, a German grill, a trendy kite-surng shop, and beach bars where bronzed adventurers come to enjoy caipirinhas at sunset to the soft melodies of chill-out tracks. Miles of white sand beaches stretch out, uninterrupted, east and west of here. This is the type of beach town Id expect to nd way off the beaten track. But in Cumbuco we are only 30 minutes from downtown Fortaleza (Brazils #1 domestic tourism destination) with her shiny boardwalk. Standing on the white sand beach at Cumbucowhere I have seen baby turtles take their rst staggering steps toward the waterif you look to your right, you can see Fortalezas glimmering skyline. The international airport is 35 minutes away. A bit farther down the coast and still less than an hour from downtown Fortaleza is the shing village of Taiba. The locals are used to sharing their village with outsiders. First, wealthy Brazilians from Fortaleza came to build their

weekend homes on the beach. In more recent years, northern Europeans (mostly Norwegians) have come to escape the Scandinavian winters. Boutique restaurants and hotels have opened as more visitors arrive. Taiba has gained a reputation as a gourmet location. Restaurants are high quality and very affordable. Taiba even has an annual food festival, which attracts over 10,000 visitors. Yet Taiba retains a quaint shing- and beach-town feel. Fifteen minutes in a beach buggy (on sand) from Taiba youll nd the beach town of Paracuru. The coast is different here from that of Taiba and Cumbuco. Its sheltered, protected from the trade winds by giant dunes...and the land is elevated from the shoreline of sandy beach and low cliffs. The best swimming beaches are here. Paracurus town square of imposing church and open-air cafes and restaurants sits above the beach. Theres oil offshore. The royalties and salaries earned from the oil pay for a clean town of cobblestone streets and brightly-painted shops and homes. Its pretty and relaxedyet undiscovered by foreigners except for a group from Poland.

in pretty good structural condition and $20,000 will convert it into a burst of color and charm. An authentic shermans village home. Most of the work will be cosmetic with some plumbing upgrades and checks

Make Money from the Worlds Real Estate Trends


When Ronan McMahon isnt scouting for Pathnder, ILs preferred real estate advertising partner, hes heading up the Real Estate Trend Alert. To follow real estate trends with the potential for prot and to access his recommendations and advice, see: Intliving.com/Reta.

on the electricity to make sure the wiring is okay. It wont be the Four Seasons but we (members of Real Estate Trend Alert) all agreed it would be plenty comfortable for us. You could make a killing during the window of time until the locals catch on that these homes have a serious value to us. Or maybe you might just want to learn from the wise old local: Buy one for your own enjoyment and sway in a hammock overlooking your million-dollar view. On my last visit to these shing villages, I noticed that foreigners had started on renovation projects. Some for homes. Others on conversions to little boutiques and even a trendy beach bar. In Paracuru I saw a beach bar right on the sand. The asking price was just $20,000.
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R E T IREM E NT L IF E ST Y L E
The church of Cerro Monserrate in the hills above Bogota, not far from the town of Chia. money here. The demand for English teachers is high and growing. At about 8,000 feet, most days in Chia are pleasant jacket-weather, neither blisteringly hot nor suffocatingly humid. When the sun shines strongly, its short sleeves time. But its comfortable as there are no mosquitoes and no pollution. The tap water is drinkable and market produce is cheap, local and fresh. Renting a quite-livable apartment costs from $200 to $400, depending on where you want to live and how luxurious the set-up is. My $100-per-month apartment is clean, equipped with a kitchen, and, to my joy, is at the end of a country lane. I visit local shops for my needs, and nd there healthy local spinach, carrots, beetroots, garlic, eggs, juicy mangos, crisp apples and avor-packed bananas. The bakeries have baguettes, wholegrain rolls, and a variety of cakes, buns and specialties for the sweet tooth. Street shops specialize in cheese arepas (grilled corn bread) and meat-lled empanadas (stuffed and fried turnovers). Fruit here is so cheap that I can just blend my own juices at home, and at cafs I sample the tasty Colombian beers. Colombian coffee, renowned worldwide, is inexpensive: 50 cents for a strong, delicious cup. In Venezuela I battled with bitter coffee and overly-chilled Internet cafs. But in Chia, nobody needs air conditioning. And for $1, I can spend an hour in a comfortable caf using reasonably quick Internet and drinking great coffee. When not teaching, I pass relaxing days walking, reading in cafs and practicing my beginners Spanish with friendly locals. The dialect is slower and easier to understand than in other countries, making it easier for me to progress. Ive found Colombians to be down-to-earth and friendly, ready to laugh at any moment. Because Chia is centrally located, I can hop into Bogota for city life, or explore beyond central Colombia. In just a few hours, I can visit the seaside or travel north to hot springs. Surrounded on two sides by mountains, the landscape here is the perfect remedy to my big city blues, stresses, and fatigue. I now have work, security, and the time to watch horses graze, sip a beer, and enjoy life as it passes by.

Colombias Remedy for the Big City Blues


By Eva Bartlett
very day, I walk to work past houses framed with bright bursts of owers, whose owners unfailingly smile and call out a greeting. Walking along a country lane, I pass a eld where horses graze in the sun. I have moved to Chia, Colombia, 45 minutes north of Bogota. After half a year in Caracas, Venezuelas capital city, I am ready for some quietude. And Ive found it here, in a town of 60,000, where roosters serenade me and motorcycles seem nonexistent. Most people here cycle. In the old-city area, large, ornate gates lead into the main plaza. The square features a church dating from the 1800s and numerous shops and cafs where you can while away the hours. The past is still vividly present in the downtown streets, which are lined with simple one-story buildings topped with ornate tiled roofs and brilliantly-colored ower planters. Leaving Venezuela, I sought to know another face of Latin American culture. From the Andes to seaside towns, larger cities to the indigenous of the Amazon region, Colombia is vast and diverse. Before moving to Chia, I worried about Colombias security, as Colombia had a reputation for high crime. But the security
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situation has improved markedly in recent years, and I feel safer here than I have in other Latin American countries. I take leisurely walks and explore back streets and country lanes without hesitation. Colombia is still one of the cheapest countries in Latin America, which is another reason I have relocated here. With the low cost of living, I can teach English a mere two hours a day and earn enough to pay my bills. That leaves me ample time to explore and relax. And should I wish to teach more hours, theres plenty of opportunity to do so. I could easily earnand savemore
a

PANAMA PANAMA PANAMA A A


uc a

Bucaramanga
Ma Rio gd ale na

Pac i f i c Oc e an
Rio C auca

Chia Bogota

JERRY KOCH/iSTOCK

COLOMBIA COLOMBIA

Rio

Medellin

Ca
Rio A trato

With Our Child in Colonial Mexico


By Glynna Prentice
think Ive found our place. Thats what Tim Leffel told his wife Donna after his rst visit to Guanajuato, Mexico. As a young couple, Tim and Donna had traveled the world, primarily in Asia, teaching English to support themselves. When they eventually headed home to the U.S., they knew that someday they wanted to live abroad again. That someday came after the arrival of daughter Alina: We wanted her to have the experience of living in another country, says Donna. But they wanted the timing to be right. Fortunately, the Leffels careers make living abroad easy: Tim is a travel writer, while Donna is a personal trainer. Tim basically needs just a computer and a phone, Donna explains. Over the years, Tims job enabled him to check out possible places to relocate. On one assignment, he found Guanajuato This state capital in Mexicos Colonial Highlands seemed to be what they were looking for. They liked that its a university town like Nashville, where they lived in the States, with plenty of young people and cultural activities. As the expat community is small (around 500), theyd have plenty of interaction with Spanish-speaking locals, which they wanted. The convenient airport connectionsthere are three international airports within a few hours of Guanajuatowere a plus for Tim. Since theyd lived overseas before, Donna says, they gured that a month would be enough to tell them if Guanajuato was right for them. So, in the summer of 2009, the family spent a month in Guanajuato taking Spanish classes and they fell in love with the city. The Leffels sold their house in Nashville and in late June 2010 Its going to moved to Mexico. They enrolled Alina in the Waldorf School make her more Colegio Yeccan Waldorfin Guanajuato. (The monthly fees run independent. them about $200, a fraction of what theyd pay in the U.S., they say.) There is also a Montessori School in Guanajuato for kindergarten through 9th grade, says Donna. They signed Alina up for two months of Spanish classes in Guanajuato before the 2010/2011 school year began, a step Donna recommends to all parents of older children. Donna contends that starting school in another language is different for a 10-year-old than for a ve-year-old. People tend to have the conception that children pick up a language quickly. And while they do pick it up easier than an adult, there are people who come down here with kids and theyre like, Oh, the kids will learn it in school. Language prep made that transition much easier for Alina As unhappy as she was at losing her vacation to take Spanish lessons, she was so much happier when school startedit made her more comfortable, says Donna. Tim has continued his career as a travel writer in Guanajuato. Since his work is Internet-based, clients sometimes dont even

Guanajuato is a university town where theres lots to do. know hes in Mexico. For international assignments, Tim prefers to skip the international airport at Len, only half an hour away, and instead opts to take the bus directly to the Mexico City airport. The bus trip is about ve hours, costs less than $50and gives him access to the countrys largest airport. Donna has taken advantage of the university in Guanajuato this past year. She hasnt ofcially enrolled; rather, she takes advantage of a quid-pro-quo program the universitys language division offers. In exchange for volunteer workshe takes part in an English conversation class once a week for studentsshes allowed to use the facilities herself. Things started coming together career-wise for Donna after about six months in Guanajuato. She explains, People found out that I was a trainer, I met people in the gymand before that I didnt really pursue it. There wasnt the need for me to work here as I do in the States. Opportunities fall into your lap or become obvious and you think, oh, I can do this. The couple promised Alina that theyd only be abroad a year, so theyre returning to the U.S. this summer when Alinas school year ends. Theyll relocate to Tampa, Florida, near where Donnas family lives, and enroll Alina in middle school. Knowing what I know now, when I come back to Guanajuato, Ill denitely note on the expat boards that Im here. I know what Id charge for training now. Donnas also considering getting certied in zumba and spin, since these exercises are popular. The couple is planning to return in two years time for Alinas 8th and 9th grades, and Donna has made the rounds of the private schools in Guanajuato to check them out. At this point, however, the Leffels assume that Alina will do her high school studies, and then college, in the U.S. For that reason, Donna plans to nd out what the U.S. curriculum is for the 8th and 9th gradesthe years Alina will study in Guanajuatoto make sure that their daughter covers all those topics. Alina will be homeschooled for anything not covered at the local Guanajuato school. Donna believes, however, that the experience of living abroad is something you cant replace. Alina is going to grow up with a much broader view of the world, she says.
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WILLIAM PERRY/iSTOCK

LIV ING TH E DR E A M

Finding Adventure in Retirement


Living in the Laboratory of Longevity
Name: Patrick Robinson Age: 83 From: Kansas City, Missouri Living in: Vilcabamba, Ecuador Youre out of your mind! This was one of the milder things people said when I announced that after 30 years of living in the paradise of Maui, Hawaii, I was moving to South America. And at 80 years of age. Alone. Without speaking a word of Spanish. It wasnt as if I woke up one morning and said: I think Ill move to the Andes of Ecuador and live happily ever after. Actually, Id spent the previous four years traveling to some 12 different countries in search of my eventual retirement ShangriLa. So what was I looking for in that multicountry exploration? An entrepreneurial haven without undue governmental intrusion in my life, where taxes and the cost of living were not as onerous as in Hawaii (which boasts one of the highest tax rates in the U.S. and basic living costs that are a minimum of 30% higher than in the rest of the country). Perhaps most important of all, it would be somewhere that had the kind of healthy environment that would nurture mind, body, and soul. These were the factors that ended up making me ignore most of the world. Why Ecuador and why the tiny village of Vilcabamba, hidden away in a valley deep in the Southern Andes? Simple answer: Sweet-natured, welcoming people and a place that is said to be a living laboratory of longevity. Vilcabamba reportedly has one of the four healthiest populations on earth. As an octogenarian, that was the clincher for me. Vilcabamba satises almost everything I had on my list of druthers. The climate is almost equal to that of Hawaii, and the people are just as friendly and hard-working as those I left. Most important, my living expenses are around a quarter of what they
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I Escaped the Boredom of a U.S. Retirement


Name: Ray Jackson Age: 74 From: New York City Living in: San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua For Ray Jackson, a former Los Angeles police ofcer and attorney, the pressing question was how to ll his time in retirement. The answer was life in Nicaragua. Having closed his busy law ofce as a sole practitioner in Redding, California, Rays plan was to do all the things hed never had enough time to tryplay music, write and travel. Ray and his wife Donna started with a sailing trip. A stop in Nicaragua to visit his son led them to more visits, and on the third trip, the couple bought property. Today they own a bed and breakfast called the Secret Cove Inn, right in the heart of San Juan del Sur, a tranquil shing village turned must-stop tourist destination. Ray takes legal cases he feels passionate about and is working on an ambitious construction project at his beachfront property. Retired life is much more energizing when youre adapting to a new culture and every day is an adventure, says Ray, who relishes how busy he is. Whether its the minor challenge of obtaining a rare piece of equipment to repair his boat, or entertaining the various guests who pass through his bed and breakfast, Ray admits life in Nicaragua makes him realize how bored he would have been if hed retired in the U.S. Theres a thriving expat community to socialize with in San Juan, and cocktails and sunsets to enjoy in front of the beautiful crescent-shaped beach. Most importantly, Ray enjoys the free time he always wanted. That time is spent with family, friends and meeting travelers from around the globe. I was fortunate because I planned nancially for a retirement where I wouldnt have to work again, says Ray. If Id stayed in the States, I wouldnt have been able to maintain this lifestyle with my current income. He gives an example: A social evening out with cocktails and appetizers that would cost $50 in the U.S. can be enjoyed in San Juan del Sur for less than $10and it comes with a much better view. In the early mornings, you may encounter Ray in the local coffee shop and bookstore doling out free advice to travelers.

were back in the U.S. Okay, not having a shopping mall or a Walmart in the village helps with that statistic. Its amazing how much one does not need when stuff and things simply arent available. What would I have done differently? I would not have had a container-load of household goods shipped from Hawaii to Ecuador. I could have literally replaced everything at half the cost of shipping. My biggest challenge in moving to South America has been learning the language, which is an absolute must if you wish to t into the culture. There is great beauty and a pleasant formality to the Spanish language. Its worth taking the time to learn. My full-time Ecuadorian cook/housekeeper ($250 a monthless than I paid for electricity in Hawaii) helps me with my daily Spanish lessons.

Add life to your years and years to your life.

Moving clear across the world to a new home need not be a daunting task. But it is not something to jump into blindly. I took the time to seek out the perfect place for me, which is what I would advise others to do also. It takes boots on the ground to check out the people and place of a prospective new home in making a decision like this. After reading about it in International Living, I visited Vilcabamba three separate times before making my nal decision. It turned out to be one of the best Ive ever made. My advice? It is never too late in life to take on a new adventure. You just need to nd a place that helps you add life to your years and years to your life. For more on my life in Vilcabamba, see: Valleyoongevity. com.

Relaxing at Tranquility Bay Resort after kayaking near Trujillo, Honduras. Often on Tuesdays hes at the towns openmike night, listening to local musicians and to passers-through who bring with them anything from traditional Irish songs to folk music to sing-along covers. On a practical note, Ray reports that, in his experience, health care in Nicaragua is efcient and affordable. He sees a worldclass periodontist in Managua who charges $40 for cleanings, and he says Englishspeaking doctors are easy to nd. If youre interested in retiring to Nicaragua or looking for a permanent move, Ray recommends establishing residency, which he says is relatively easy. Its a good life. Come down to Nicaragua, rent a place for four to six months and try it out. By Pha Lo .

Life is more relaxed and more fulfilling here.

What Could be More Idyllic?


Name: Rosie Thornton Age: 52 From: Alberta, Canada Living in: Trujillo, Honduras I am on the front deck when two toucans y by weighed down by their awkward beaks. Ive only ever seen a toucan on a Froot Loops box or caged in a zoo. I love being in Honduras. Our house is on a mountainside two miles from the town of Trujillo, Honduras, on the north coast of the Caribbean. We are 900 yards from the beach. Out my kitchen window on a clear dayand they

are mostly clear daysI can see the island of Roatan, 43 miles away. Roatan is a prime scuba-dive destination, located at the south end of the second-longest barrier reef in the world. At Trujillo, we enjoy snorkeling, deep-sea shing, sea kayaking, kite boarding and all sorts of water sports, hiking up the mountain to the waterfalls... and lazing in the hammock. How did a couple of Canadians from northern Alberta end up in Honduras? The cold and snow at home is why we ended up in a tropical destination on the warm Caribbean coast. My husband and I bought a one-third-acre-lot in January 2008 for $28,000, and by July 2010 our three-bedroom, 1,440-square-foot house was complete. In Honduras, homeowners get certied title to their property. Construction of the house, at $85 per square foot, was to North American standards. The temperature is a consistent 77 F year-round and the house is always cool. We rst saw our lot in 2008 after hiking

high up the mountain through the trees and bushes. We were in awe at the spectacular ocean view. Now we drive up the curving mountain roads to our house. The breathtaking view still leaves us awestruck. The beaches are white sand and pristine. The only footprints we see are our own. The water is a stunning turquoise and bathtub-warm; the ocean oor sandy. Palm trees wave in the breeze. What could be more idyllic than this? I gaze back up at our house; ocean and mountains are a perfect combination. Well follow up an afternoon of swimming and beach-combing by lying in a hammock under the covered deck. Cool evening breezes signal the end of a perfect day in the Caribbean. The local people are Garifuna ( a Carib population of African ancestry), Mayan and Hispanic. They are lovely, warm, welcoming people. The local expatriate community is about 50 strong. In grocery stores in Trujillo, six chicken breasts cost about $8, a 26-ounce bottle of rum is $4, a ve-gallon water jug is $1.25 and a good bottle of wine costs $4. The local markets feature locally-grown produce and fresh seafood. Bananas cost about 10 cents each, and vegetables are equally inexpensive. Cell phones cost about $20, and $5 buys 100 saldos (minutes), except on triple saldo days, when you get 300 saldos for $5. There is a hospital in town and another one two hours away with additional emergency services to North American standards. Access to Health care is quick, and Canadian users of the local hospitals have had their own doctors in Canada remark that they would have done nothing different in providing emergency or other health services. Costs are a fraction of what youd pay at home. Lots of opportunities exist for entrepreneurs here since the area is just beginning to develop. Construction on a double cruise ship port began in Trujillo in April 2011. Its an extremely deep water port able to accommodate cruise ships that hold up to 6,000 passengers. The climate, pristine beaches, warm ocean, tropical and exotic ora and fauna, a relaxed pace of life, friendly local people, the strong expat community and entrepreneurial opportunities all drew us to Trujillo. Plus, we feel safe here. And life moves at a slower pace, which allows us the opportunity to stop and appreciate the small things.
AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

EVAN WILL

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TR AVEL F OR FRE E

An Airfare Junkies Guide to Flying for Free


By Darius Fisher
ver heard of the Pudding Guy? His name is David Phillips and among airfare junkies who lurk on FlyerTalk.com, hes a legend. In 1999, he spotted a promotion: In exchange for every 10 Healthy Choice brand barcodes it received, the company would reward 500 frequent yer miles. So he bought 12,150 pudding cups. A few months later, Healthy Choice sent him 1.25 million frequent yer miles. The cost was just $3,150. To this day, no ones ever topped the Pudding Guy and his creamy bounty. But that doesnt mean these mileage maniacs arent trying. And FlyerTalk.com is their home. I discovered this discussion board and knowledge base while researching ights to Europe. A simple query brought me to the site, but the airfare expertise of these schemers sucked me in. I soon learned their lingo and some interesting, albeit time-consuming, ways to y for free and earn perks in the air.
STEPHEN STRATHDEE/iSTOCK

simple, right? Thats what I thought until I explored deeper. I found people buying coinage from the U.S. Mint with their frequent yer credit card. Others were churning cardsopening a card for a specic promotion and then weeks or months later cancelling it and then reopening the card to again cash in on the promotion. And some doing all of the above! If this sounds appealing to you, check out the FlyerTalk forum Miles Buzz. There youll nd over 250,000 posts about promotions available, all updated by airfare junkies in real time. Nothing gets by these guys.

Mileage Running Getting Bumped Intentionally Mileage runners book long, inexpensive ights to maximize Airlines often overbook ights. Their statisticians predict how frequent yer miles. So instead of ying from, say, Los Angeles many passengers will show up at the gate, and they overbook ights to Chicago, a dedicated mileage runner might add connections to maximize revenue. But when these number gurus fail, airline in Houston and Atlanta. Or if the price is right, one staff scurry to nd passengers willing to board the next might take the same ight three times in a day to rack ight. up miles. In exchange for this inconvenience, airlines The ultimate goal is twofold: Accrue enough compensate yers. On a recent ight to London, Virgin miles to travel for free. And, more importantly, vault offered me a free round-trip ticket to anywhere in the Dont the mileage runner into the status of airline elite, world, a night in a hotel, and meal vouchers if I took giving him access to rst-class upgrades, the coveted a ight the next day. Here are a few tips to getting check any airport lounge, meal vouchers and the pleasure of bumped intentionally. skipping the security queue. Arrive early, be exible, and ask politely if any luggage. If you have some time on your hands, guring volunteers are needed. out the perfect mileage run is like solving a puzzle. Choose the airline carefully. According to the First, head to FlyerTalk to learn the basic jargon (Flyertalk.com/ U.S. Department of Transportations February 2010 Air Travel glossary). Then pick the airline frequent-yer-miles program youre Consumer Report, Delta, Southwest, American, United, and US going to use. Once youre ready, search for cheap ights from your Airways have the highest instances of voluntary bumpings. home city. Next, gure out the full fares and airline routing rules of Travel in the mornings, Sunday evenings, or during holidays to the ight. popular destinations. Historically, this is when youre most likely to When youve found a ight that abides by airline rules, use get bumped. ITAs Matrix Trip Planner (matrix.itasoftware.com) to build your Travel light. Airlines give priority to passengers with no checked itinerary and then book your airfare either through the airline or baggage. Orbitz.com, which is powered by ITA. Finally, prepare to soar all the Book the whole itinerary with one agency. If you opt to buy two way up to elite level status. separate tickets, airlines wont take responsibility for the second leg of the journey. So even if you get bumped, youll still need to reAccrue Credit Card Miles book the connecting ight (at your expense). If ying from airport to airport is not how you want to spend a No one said getting a free ight would be easy, but if you have weekend, an easier option is to accrue miles with your credit card. the time and the determination, ying for free can be done. You already know how the system works. You spend money on Wondering what the Pudding Guy did with 12,150 pudding your card. You earn miles. You redeem the miles for ights. Pretty cups? He donated them to charity and got a tax write-off.

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H HEA LT H CA RE

A Trip to Costa Rica and $8,600 Thank You Dr Cordero!


By Nancy French

N OUR FIRST afternoon in San Jose, Costa Rica, we walked to the Mercado Central (Central Market), ordered a fresh shrimp and avocado salad, and smiled at our good fortune. As longtime IL subscribers, we knew there were places where we could not only save a lot of money on health care, but have a great vacation, too. We had traveled extensively in Mexico and Central America, but had missed out on Costa Rica. We decided this would be our opportunity to explore the country as well as take care of my husband Alans dental needs. He has had serious dental issues for many years. Visiting a U.S. dentist, Alan got a quote of $22,500. The necessary work included 14 crowns, two root canals, and laser whitening. Of course, going outside the U.S for dental work was still a little scary for us. Discussing our plans with friends reinforced our fears. Why on earth would you want to go to Costa Rica for dental work? How can you trust the skills of the dentist there? But after doing the research we were determined. We read about the doctors, their training and experience. We decided on Prisma Dental Clinic in San Jos. (See: Prismadental.com). Past patient reviews posted on the clinics website raved about the quality of the work. Alan speaks some Spanish, but it was important that most of the personnel in the

clinic spoke English. Telma Rubenstein impressions for the crowns and bridges half of the husband-and-wife team at were created. This exacting process took Prismatalked with Alan on the phone a full day. Now done with phase one, we and the treatment plan from the U.S. were ready to leave town. We had arranged dentist was emailed for her to review. to have our rental car delivered to the hotel Her explanation of the work involved, the next day. and her additional suggestions, gave With guidelines from the rental agent, us condence. Her open, professional we headed for the Monteverde Cloud manner, knowledge, and ease of discussing Forest. With our guide, Rodrigo, we the issues convinced us that this was the learned about the ora and fauna of the right place. And her area. We were treated to quote of $11,600 sightings of both male made the decision to and female quetzals, a move forward even spectacular bird to spot. My husband got a easier. Our next stop, Run by Telma and the Nicoya Peninsula, new smile and we her husband, Dr Josef is one of the largest Cordero, the Prisma Blue-Zone areas in the saved thousands. Dental Clinic has been world (regions where in operation for over people commonly live 20 years. Crowns, bridges, implants, etc., extremely long, active lives). Many of the are produced at the clinic, in their onsite locals live into their 90s and 100s. Their state-of-the-art lab. A patient visitor service strong sense of community, mineralworks together with the dental clinic. It rich waters, organic foods, and daily can arrange hotel stays, transportation to physical work (inherent in the lifestyle) all the clinic, tours around the country, and contribute to the longevity. We were there, pick-up and return to the airport. though, to hang out on the beach, snorkel We knew we would have a seven-day in the clear waters, and watch the surfers break between the initial phase and the catch the waves. completion of the job while the bridges Returning to San Jos, we made it back and crowns were being produced. in town just in time for Alans afternoon For the entire trip, our extra expenses appointment. The permanent crowns and totaled $2,300; this amount included our bridges were put in place. In conjunction airfare, food, hotel stays, and rental car for with this, they completed laser whitening 10 days. So for a total of $13,900, we had on his bottom teeth so they would match a fabulous Costa Rican vacation and my his new upper teeth. husband got a new smile. And we saved The following morning, Alan returned $8,600. for a brief appointment. The dentists Alans rst checked to make sure everything was How Much Can You Save on Dental Care? appointment started off perfect and gave him a mouth guard (to with panoramic x-rays, protect the crowns). a discussion of the work Leaving the country right after the Procedure Cost in the U.S. Cost in Costa Rica to be completed and a procedure is not recommended, so hanging Crowns $1,000-$3,000 $500-$650 timetable for procedures. out on the Caribbean coast seemed like Root canal $350-$1,000 $120-$300 He spent the second day a perfect way to spend the time. Driving Laser whitening $1,000 $300 in the dental chair. But through the rain forest, rustic villages, and Exam $75-$100 $35 thankfully the onsite banana and pineapple farms, we headed to Panoramic x-ray $100 $45 lab had produced Playa Negra. Nestled between the blackImplants $2,000-$2,500 $700-$900 temporary dentures. sand beach and the jungle, our eco lodge The second day the provided a perfect ending to our trip.

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SOLUTION S

Your Business Abroad: 7 Tips


By Shanie Matthews
the street, the store owners, restaurant patrons. Other great HEN MY HUSBAND JAMIE places to integrate include farmers markets, local Facebook and I left our U.S. home in Lake fan pages, clubs, activity groups and/or health clubs. And Tahoe, California for our new lives in put in the time researching what other expats have learned Argentina, we were looking to learn a while living in your chosen country. new way of life, meet new people and It can help to offer a percentage of sales to locals explore a new culture. But we needed income, and both that refer clients, or integrate a local nonprot into your being entrepreneurial souls, we knew that to live our life to business. In the rentals business, we paid 10% for any rental the fullest while living abroad we needed to create our own referral. businesses. 4. Use social networking: By using social networking In the past 12 years weve created and run nine as a tool, your exposure can go viral. Implement different successful businesses, from managing a vineyard in San real-time instruments such as blogging, Facebook, Twitter, Rafael to creating a bustling vacation-rental company in StumbleUpon, and use relevant message boards. These are Patagonia. To say the least, we have learned a few lessons quick and easy methods to bring attention to your region along the way. Here are seven tips to help you create your and your business. own successful business abroad A great way to bring people into 1. Find your niche: As a person coming your circle is to offer free information, or into a place from the outside you contests with worthy prizes. For example, may discover that there are businesses my husband and I wrote a restaurant guide missing from your new home. When You dont want for Bariloche that we offered free-of-charge we moved to San Carlos de Bariloche, on our vacation-rental website. When we Argentina, my husband and I realized to look like a launched the book, the networking sites that there was little English-language travel information on the Internet. greedy foreigner. helped create a buzz that brought about many bookings. We saw that the market was lacking a 5. Create a good website: An easyvacation-rental company catering to the to-navigate site shows potential customers that youre needs of international travelers. So we set up Bariloche professional. Before building your company site, check Vacation Rental, a company that has hosted guests from out other websites that pertain to your niche. Can you over 40 countries. showcase the business idea better? Is the company idea Upon arriving in your new land, start researching the clear and concise on competitor sites? Can you help draw business market. Look through the local paper. Evaluate attention to the business with clever, clear content? pamphlets at the tourism market. Ask yourself: Is there a 6. Keep connected beyond the computer: Its also niche of the tourism market that isnt being talked about? important to connect your business idea to the local Do a Google search of the area in both the native tongue community. One excellent way to do this is to volunteer. and other languages to see if there are opportunities just By helping the community, it shows that you are positively waiting to be marketed. Also, check to see if there are any involved with the township, which leads to connections, items that may be of interest to export. Play to your new which gives legs for your business to stand on. There countrys strengths; this not only helps you nd a business is nothing quite as powerful as word of mouth for the of interest but it also helps the local community. successful future of a company. 2. Learn the cultural necessities: Its vital when 7. Find good employees: As any business owner creating a successful business to take the time to learn how knows, a good employee is worth their weight in gold. the locals operate. Is it customary to kiss on the cheek In our vineyard we found that by showing our farms instead of shake hands upon greeting? Is everything paid in caretakers trust and respectsomething that they had cash? not experienced priorwe received two bonuses. One, For Jamie and me, life in Argentina taught us to take a excellent employees sought us out for employment. Two, it more relaxed approach to business relations. We learned the helped our farm production grow from a 2,000 kilo grape importance of the siesta and family time between the hours harvest our rst year to a 60,000 kilo harvest our third. of 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., and we went to a kiss-on-the-cheek Another way to nd dependable employees goes back to greeting instead of a stiff handshake. This helped us build social networking. By demonstrating a community-based the foundation for positive business relationships. mentality when marketing our vacation rental property, 3. Approach the locals: No one wants to look like we found that forward-thinking locals contacted us about a greedy foreigner trying to take advantage of their new jobs. In fact, one of our best team members, Marianna, home. Get to know the people in your town. Before setting befriended us initially on Facebook. up shop, have a wander through the area, chat with folks on

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IN S ID E R INT EL L I GEN CE
something a bit healthier, go for a quipe. The Dominican version of this tasty Middle Eastern snack combines spiced ground beef with bulgur wheat and fresh parsley. 4. Recreational retreat: If youre worried about calories from an empanada binge, get some exercise at Ponticia Universidad Catlica Madre y Maestra (PCMM). Walkers and runners work out every morning on the shady, rolling paths throughout the campus. Youll nd basketball courts, tennis courts, and a track on the southeast side of the grounds. Dont be put off by the guards at the gates. If you arrive via car, take the parking card they offer when you drive in and return it as you exit. Otherwise, just walk right inits free. 5. Go y a kite: Spring breezes blow through Santiago in March and April and locals take advantage of the steady winds to launch kites of all shapes and sizes, locally known as chichiguas, into the clear blue skies. Each Sunday, the parking lots at the Monumento a los Hroes de la Restauracin are full of children competing in a variety of kite-ying contests. Buy a kite from a vendor and join the fun every weekend until Easter. 6. Sports fanatics: Every sports fan knows that the Dominican Republics winter baseball league boasts MLB stars and hopefuls. You can catch the local baseball team, the Santiago guilas (Eagles), playing at Estadio Cibao (Cibao Stadium) from midNovember until the end of February. What insiders also know is that basketball fans can root for the home team when the Santiago Metros play at Cibao. In addition, local basketball league games feature players of all ages shooting hoops for neighborhood pride on outdoor courts around the city. 7. Italian avors: Given the large number of Dominican Yorks who regularly travel between Santiago and New York City, its no surprise Santiago has great Italian food. Clustered near the Los Jardines neighborhood, DAmicis and Sabrass are two great dinner options. You can get ingredients to prepare your own feast at Punto Italia, a high-end Italian gourmet grocer. 8. Bachata and merengue: For music lovers, Santiago delivers. Enjoy live Latin sounds every weekend and dance with the locals. The beat is easy to follow and not just because the music is irrationally loud. Venues like Andy Randy and City Ranch post banners all across Santiago to promote upcoming shows. Internationally acclaimed musicians often take the stage. 9. Centro de Len: Dont miss this museum, funded by the Jimenes family, which owns Presidente beer and Aurora cigars. The trick to making the most of your visit? Spring for a guided tour from a museum docentits a great way to learn about the history of the island and its people. The multi-lingual guides will also explain the evolution of the Jimenes art collection, which includes pieces by the best contemporary Dominican artists.

YANA BERANEK

Launch a kite on the spring breeze at the citys Monumento a los Hroes de la Restauracin.

Nine Santiago Secrets from a D.R. Expat


By Yana Beranek

URROUNDED BY A RING OF MOUNTAINS in the lush Cibao Valley, Santiago makes the ideal staging point for a visit to the Dominican Republic. Its the countrys second-largest city and a great place to discover Dominican culture. Unlike the famed beach resorts of Punta Cana and La Romana, Santiago is not an international tourist spot. That means the food, festivals, and entertainment are still authentic and affordable. It also means you need an insiders advice to nd the best things to do when you visit. Here are nine tips to make the most of your stay in Santiago. 1. The view: You dont need an insider to point out the vast white marble Monumento a los Hroes de la Restauracin, but you could easily miss the four-story museum housed in its tower. Numerous exhibits describe the Dominican ght for independence from Spain. The top oor opens onto an observation deck where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city and nearby mountains. 2. Crazy carnival: Travel guides say La Vega is the only place to enjoy Dominican Carnival, but insiders know Santiago puts on an awesome party each Sunday in February. Hundreds of people march and dance in a parade that goes on for hours. They wear traditional masks denoting rival neighborhoods and costumes covered with sequins, tiny mirrors, and appliqu. Enjoy local dance troupes as they strut behind pick-up trucks blasting Dominican rhythms. 3. Cheap eats: Vendors in Santiago serve up the best street food youll nd anywhere on the island. For less than $1 you can try crisp, aky empanadaspastries lled with cheese or chickenor try pizza and yucca balls stuffed with shredded meat. If you want

The Perfect Location


Santiago sits about an hour inland from the north coast beaches of Sosa and Cabarete. And its about an hour from the mountain town of Jarabacoa, too, where people go to white-water raft, ride horses, and hike Pico Duarte, the Caribbeans highest peak at a little over 10,000 feet. With an international airport 20 minutes from Santiago, its a great staging point for exploring the country.

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R EAL ESTAT E

Where to Find Nicaraguas Beach Bargains


By Lee Harrison
CAME AWAY FROM MY FIRST VISIT TO Nicaragua, in 2004, with a lopsided image of the coastal lifestyle in Central Americas largest countryan image based only on the southern Pacic coast and its network of luxury, planned communities designed specically with expats in mind. But it turns outas I discovered on subsequent visitstheres another, far more authentic and affordable environment to explore along this countrys central and northern Pacic coast. I revisited two pairs of villages recentlynear Managua and near Leonto see how this area has fared in the last few years. The verdict? The values (and views) are more alluring than ever. Masachapa and Pochomil When I reached the coast at Masachapa, I was greeted by a small, simple town mostly built around one street. Just 35 miles from Managua, it offers a good collection of markets and shops with girls selling handicrafts, while there are a couple of mouthwatering seafood restaurants along the beach.

THE DANIEL ORTEGA STORY


President Daniel Ortega is not a popular guy in the U.S. In 1979, he and the Sandinistas ousted the U.S.-backed dictator Anastasio Somoza, ending the longest dictatorship in Latin American history. When Ortega was elected president in 1984, President Reagan spent years trying to overthrow him unsuccessfully. In the elections of 2006, the Bush administration threatened Nicaragua with sanctions if the people elected Ortega again. The strategy backred, however, and Nicaraguans rallied behind Ortega. Not only was he elected, but a further re-election in the upcoming November 2011 poll is looking like a sure thing. Although cast as a villain, by most accounts, Nicaragua has improved under Ortegas tenure. The electricity system is far more reliable, tourism is up dramatically, and the roads and infrastructure are noticeably better. Health care has also improved, while the illiteracy rate has dropped 85%. School fees were eliminated, so now the poor can attend. Generally, people are happier with their government. He certainly has detractors and opposition domestically, but todays Nicaragua feels like a better placeboth for Nicaraguans and expats.
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The town has undergone a facelift since my rst visit in 2004, with many of the buildings spruced up and freshly painted. The village of Pochomil, which adjoins Masachapa, feels less rustic and has a higher percentage of vacation homes and fewer full-time residents than its neighbor. Pochomils most prominent commercial activity is still its string of large, open-air seafood restaurants on the beach. Here, families stake out an umbrella or table for the entire day, enjoying seafood delicacies, cold drinks, and protection from the sun while they play in the surf and sand. The beach these towns share is wide and sandythe widest Ive seen in Nicaraguarunning about 10 miles long. The sand slopes very gradually into the blue Pacic, which is calm and warm on this section of coastlineperfect for swimming. The nearby luxury resort of Barcel at Montelimar and the former presidential seaside retreat both attest to this beachs place in the pecking order of Nicaraguas shoreline. The Masachapa/Pochomil area is the nearest developed shore point to the capital of Managua and its the destination for many p Managuans going on day trips to the beach. It also hosts many M second homeowners, including a diverse mix of international se residents. re Seaside Property Picks S We visited a good quarter-acre lot (1,000 square meters) a couple of blocks from the beach with a wide ocean view for just co $25,000. Right on the beachfront, we saw a small house on a treed $ lot with an asking price of $79,000. The house wasnt worth much, lo but thats a great price for a buildable beachfront site. b My favorite house was perched on a hill about a half-block from the beach. It featured three bedrooms and two baths, was nicely th remodeled and had an awesome wraparound porch with a sparkling re ocean view. The asking price was $149,000. o At the high end of the spectrum was a magnicent 3,700-square-foot home with ve bedrooms, four baths and three 3 terraces in an upscale community within short walking distance of te the resort at Montelimar. The asking price was $249,000. th Parts of this area are somewhat Third-World, so if youre not accustomed to life in rural, Latin America, you need to check n it out rst. Masachapa and Pochomil are not where you go to experience ne dining or to nd upscale shops and entertainment. ex But if you enjoy the company of friendly, laid-back people, the B music of tropical birds singing in fruit-laden mango trees, and m mouthwatering seafood served in open-air restaurants on one of m Nicaraguas best beaches, then Masachapa is the spot. N

Ten miles long, Masachapa beach near Managua is a perfect spot for swimming in warm, calm waters. To me, the best feature of these towns is their proximity to the large colonial city of Len. It is located just 15 minutes away on a new, well-maintained road, so you could reside on the beach fulltime with city conveniences within reach. More Super Beachfront Deals Poneloya and Las Peitas offer some great real estate buys. We started with a visit to a large two-story, ve-bedroom, threebath home on a nice lot right on the sand with an asking price of $195,000. Right next door, theres a good building lot for $95,000. The best value property we discovered was probably a $100,000 home on the other side of the beachfront road with an ocean view. It was in good shape, with ve bedrooms, four baths, service quarters, a caretaker house and laundry facilitiesall on a large lot. The best bargain in town was a simple two-bedroom, one-bath home just a half-block from the beachfor only $40,000. For the potential developer (or someone who wants a big lot) theres a 2.3-acre parcel for sale at the beach, bordering on an estuary, with fantastic views of both. Its going for $240,000. Poneloya and Las Peitas are ideal for beachfront living and just under two hours from Managuas international airport. Theyre also a great second home option if youre living in Len, which is close by. The authentic Nicaraguan beachfront experience wont be for everyone. You dont have the high-end amenities or luxuries of an exclusive gated community. This setting is for those expats who like making their own way as part of the local community. But you can count on the beautiful, wide beaches, calm waters, affordable properties, and a low cost of living.

Poneloya and Las Peitas After my visit to Masachapa and Pochomil I was determined to nd another similar setting, and that search led me to the small, one-lane towns of Poneloya and Las Peitas. Like their cousins to the south, they offer wide, sandy beaches, calm, warm waters, magnicent sunsets, and low property prices. Las Peitas echoes the positive changes Ive seen throughout Nicaragua with its new sidewalks and curbs, a new coastal road and a number of pleasant hotels and restaurants. Its twin city of Poneloya retains a quieter, mostly residential feel but both are responding well to the upswing in tourism in the area.

SOME ESSENTIAL TIPS, TRICKS AND SECRETS


Real estate in Masachapa Long-time expat, Stonewall Stoney James, and his wife Von discovered their paradise in Masachapa after living in 10 other countries. They operate the areas premier real estate company, Solution 1 Associates, email: info@realtysolnicaragua.com, website: RealtySolNicaragua.com. A worthwhile step in the buying process Titles on the coast of Nicaragua can be tricky and its critical that you trace any title back to 1917 at a minimum. I recommend you seek out the services of a knowledgeable title consultant when buying. For expert assistance, I contact Tuey Murdock, at TueyMurdock@gmail.com. Real estate in Las Peitas and Poneloya Expat founders of Aurora Len Realty, Jordan and Brooke Clark (and baby daughter Nina), have made their home in Len. Jordan served in the Peace Corps in Central America and fell in love with the region. Email: jordanpclark@gmail.com, website: NicaraguaRealEstateLeon.com. Dining in Masachapa For a great dining experience, try the brand-new Escuela de Hostelera. Its actually a tourism/hotelier school which offers a delicious menu of local and international cuisine in a tasteful, open-air setting. Its large, tropical-style rooms rent for $40 to $50 per night in the off season.
AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

EL SALVADOR
r San Miguel

Ocotal San Marcos de Colon Somotillo

Quilali

Somoto

Choluteca Estell Matagalpa

Sebaco Chinandega Chichigalpa Leon Lago de Corinto Lago Lago de ag ag Poneloya Las Peitas Ma gu Managu Managua Managua Ciudad Sandino

NICARAGUA
Boaco Camoapa Juigalpa Santo Tomas

El Crucero Masachapa Pochomil Pa fic Ocean Pacific Ocea ac a Pacific Ocean

Managua
Masaya
Rivas

Diriamba Lago de Lago de g Nicaragua Nicaragua Nicaragua a San Carlos

Rancho Santana

San Juan del Sur

LEE HARRISON

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FE AT URE ST O RY

Retiring overseas doesnt have to be hard, in fact, it can be easy in places like Roatan, Honduras (above), or Panama City (right).

Seven Easy Affordable Retirement Spots ,

By the Staff of International Living


(see page 36). But theres a strong case to be made for communities where the welcome mat is out for expats and your new adventure can begin with a minimum of frustration. What makes a place easy? First, its not too far from home. If you need to get back for an emergency or friends and family want to visit, its not a chore. When you can still get many of the same goods and services youre used to, culture shock wont disorient you. When theres at least a small expat community already established, it means you can make friends in your own language and you can ask questions of folks who have gone before you. That increases your comfort level exponentially. In a place thats easy, you can rent a home or apartment youll be comfortable living in, and that means you can take your new life for a test drive. And an easy place offers good, affordable healthcare restaurantsand things to do. All the places we highlight here meet those criteria. Yet theyre hardly cookiecutter destinations. And you wont mistake any of them for Kansas. They each have their individual appeal. What they have in common is that theyre all places where you can settle in easilyand start enjoying your new life fast. Live Lakeside in Mexico Lake Chapala, Mexico, is arguably the easiest place in the world to adjust to life as an expat. This area offers all the charm and romance you love about Mexicobut with the U.S.-style conveniences and support systems to make your transition a snap. Lake Chapala is in central Mexico,
ADAM JEFFERY PHOTOGRAPHY/iSTOCK

e sold everything, started a new life in a new country and are now ordinary people leading extraordinary lives. It was so much easier than people think, says expat Darrell Bushnell. Darrell and his wife Amy live in the colonial city of Granada, Nicaragua, on the shores of the largest fresh water lake in Central America. We didnt experience any culture shock here and the locals are gracious and gentle. This is a place brimful of opportunities for starting a business and enjoying social activities, says Darrell. Darrell and Amy are just two of the thousands of expats who have made a new home abroad in a place where its relatively easy to settle in. Should that be your top priority when choosing a locale overseas? Not necessarily
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less than an hour from Guadalajara, the countrys second-largest city, and only half an hour from Guadalajaras busy international airport. Loved for its mild, spring-like climate and expansive views, Lake Chapala has been attracting expats for 60 years. Today, its home to the largest U.S. and Canadian expat community in the world: As many as 15,000 live here full- or part-time. Youll have no trouble getting by in English. Youll make friends and acquaintances just walking down the cobblestoned streets of little pueblos like Ajijic, Chapala, and San Juan Cosala, all of which lie on the lakes well-populated North Shore. Through the Lake Chapala Society, in Ajijic, you can get involved with over 80 activities groups covering everything from line-dancing to bridge Many expats have also opened businesses here, including restaurants, shops, and real estate ofces. Its easy to nd Englishspeaking U.S. and Canadian real estate agents to walk you through the propertybuying process in Mexico. Prefer to rent? With thousands of snowbirds coming to Lake Chapala every winter, youll nd a market prepped for rentals, with plenty of rental homes and condos to choose from. Properties for rent or for sale are listed online at numerous websites, so you can do your research longdistance. Rentals can start as low as about $400 a month, while condos for sale start in the low $100,000s, making this area very affordable. Medical care is a snap, too. Several health clinics on Lake Chapalas North Shore can handle day-to-day health needs. For major treatment, expats head to Guadalajara, a medical hub thats home to well-respected medical schools, numerous rst-rate hospitals, and excellent doctors many of whom speak English. Costa Rica for Convenience Although Costa Rica is known for its beaches, the majority of foreigners who move here tend to settle in the Central Valleynear, but denitely not inthe chaotic capital city of San Jose. Theyre after the temperate climate and access to amenities the Central Valley offers. At an elevation of about 3,600 feet above sea level, daytime temperatures average 75 to 80 F. The poshest and most popular Central Valley destinationfor foreigners and locals alikeis Escaz, just a few miles west of San

Jose. Several foreign embassies are located here, as are the residences of the U.S. and British ambassadors, and youre as likely to hear English spoken as Spanish. In Escaz, youre close to the countrys largest shopping malls and mostsophisticated hospitals. There are many ne dining and nightlife options, a luxurious country club, and an 18-hole championship golf course. All this, and youre only an hours drive from the Pacic coast. Beach real estate tends to cost more than properties in the Central Valley, but be aware that Escaz is home to some of the highest-priced real estate in the valley.

Ricas universal health care system, CAJA. Its afliated with 10 major public hospitals in the country and many small clinics in almost every community. You can also buy private insurance most plans cover dental work, optometry, and cosmetic surgery in the case of an accident. Private medical insurance in Costa Rica currently costs about $50 to $100 per month per person, depending on age, gender and other factors. And dont worry about language issuesmany doctors speak English and have received training in Europe, Canada, or the U.S. English-Speaking Caribbean Belize Placencia is a place you nd by accidenta visit to a friend or a diving vacation turns into something more permanent. Most expats in Belize have stories like this. It takes about 20 seconds to gure out things down thereeverything is familiar. The language is the same, the money is the same, even the electrical system is the sameyou wont need a power adapter for your iPod or cell phone. Everyone speaks English. Less than 30 years ago Belize was still run by the British (the Queen of England features on the Belize dollar). The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere but most things (except hotels and real estate) are priced in Belize dollars. The exchange rate is $2 Belize = $1 U.S. Belize City is a two-hour ight from Houston...and from there, dozens of bush planes make the 20-minute hop to Placencia every day.
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We are ordinary people leading extraordinary lives.


Thats the price of convenience. Still, those who live in Escaz say you can live quite well on $35,000 to $40,000 per year. Because of its many international residents, its easy to meet people in Escaz and there are several expat clubs to facilitate networking. The Little Theatre Group (littletheatregroup.org), which offers performances in English and the Womens Club (wwccr.org) are good places to start. For more clubs and activities, see amcostarica.com/calendar.htm. Hands down, Costa Ricas universal health care system is one of the best in the world. Once you obtain legal residency in Costa Rica, foreigners are eligible (required, in fact) to participate in Costa

ALFREDO MAIQUEZ/iSTOCK

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FE AT URE ST O RY
This is the Caribbean, so the climate is tropical. That means high 80s F when the weather is good, and the possibility of hurricanes when its bad. Most of the big storms that hit Belize during the last 150 years landed during September and October. The best time to be in Placencia is December through May. You can rent a small beach houseit takes about 10 seconds to get from your bed to the oceanfor $60 a night. Longer-term, most real estate agents are now getting into property management. Look for the signs in Placencia village. Placencia has a clinic and a pharmacy. Belize City has private hospitals but most expats travel across the border to Mexico for anything health related that isnt minor. Belize in general has a poor reputation for health care, but it is improvingthere are now dental tourists that come from North America to save money. There is one category that Belize scores poorly onits one of the few countries in the world where its difcult to use VOIP services like Skype (because they are blocked by the main Internet provider). Use phone cards to call homea $10 card will buy you enough minutes to call home several times. Panama: A Tropical City Adventure For an expat easing into city living there are few places as convenient and appealing as Panama City. Most foreigners arriving here for the rst time are happily surprised by what they nd. It doesnt t the stereotypical image of the Third World The infrastructure, diversity and sophistication are utterly First World. This is a tropical city with a taste of home. You have a wide choice of neighborhoods to suit your own style and taste. There are American-style enclaves with tall trees and manicured lawns. Restored colonials offer a taste of history. And newly built waterfront high-rises provide modern conveniences with a water view. The countrys Pensionado program is the worlds best retirement-residency package. And foreigners can qualify. The economy is growing fast and multinationals are ocking here. International phone calls go through rst time, every time. High-speed Internet is the norm rather than the exception and its modern international airport offers daily ights to the U.S., Europe and the rest of the Americas. Its the perfect base from which to explore the continent and nd your next adventure. You can dine in ve-star restaurants, attend plays, symphonies, and the ballet, and shop at the many upmarket boutiques. And in Panama City, you can enjoy these luxuries at about half the price youd pay in any U.S. city. Expats here say theyre busier than ever now that theyre retired. Almost all of them will tell you that they got healthier without doing anything special, learned local customs and the language thanks to friendly locals (many of whom speak English), and attended so many expat and local events that networking and making friends was laughably easy. Small Town, Cool Weather in Ecuador The highland town of Cotacachi, Ecuador, has changed in recent years. The biggest changeand one locals are still shaking their heads in amusement atis the inux of foreign retirees
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VICTOR HUGO VILLAMIL AVILA/iSTOCK

LESTER WOODWARD/DREAMSTIME.COM

Take a carriage ride in Colonial Granada, relax on a beach in Belize or enjoy the culture of Ecuador.

coming for the perfect climate and the low cost of living. Its not just retirees succumbing to the charms of Cotacachi. There are several new residents in their 30s and 40s and at least three families with young children, teenagers, and young adult children in tow. For the most part, theyre combining local schooling with home-schooling. To meet demand, new pharmacies have opened and a new health clinic is in the works as part of a new retirement community being built by a British couple. On the main street, the towns rst real supermarket will open any time now. But this peaceful little village still offers a small-town lifestyle that has all but disappeared in most of the world these days. There are two shady main plazas where youll see friendly working people going about their daily business with a smile and a nod to everyone they meet on the streetwhere children of all ages play and ride their bikes late into the evening anywhere in town and indigenous women rule the local market, selling the largest, freshest produce youve ever seen. ($5 buys more than you can carry.) Because of its status as an artisan and tourist town, Cotacachi and nearby Otavalo, where textiles and other crafts are madeis prosperous. This prosperity has also allowed the town to treat itself to a facelift. Recent years have seen the main streets repaved and

THOMAS HAJEK/DREAMSTIME.COM

largest and most developed island. English is widely spoken here and people are friendly and helpful. With more than 5,000 foreign residents, some part time, some full time, there is plenty of opportunity to meet like-minded people. You can be involved as little or as much as you want hide away like a hermit in your hilltop aerie or frequent popular hangouts where youre sure to meet friends. There is an international airport on Roatan, with direct ights from Houston, Miami, Atlanta and Newark. And resident seniors, dened as 60 years or older, get a discount on air fares. Youll nd a public hospital and several small clinics on the island. The most popular among expats are the Cornerstone Clinic located at Anthonys Key Resort and Clinica Esperanza in Sandy Bay. The past decade has seen a lot of growth on Roatan; where there was once only one cruise ship dock, there are now two; the almost-bankrupt electric company was bought by a Texas oil and gas company who infused millions of dollars to provide a steady supply of electricity. If you want a place where you can feel safe, visit the grandkids easily, bring your dog or cat, commune with nature, relax and enjoy life, then beach-ringed Roatan could be for you. Colonial Nicaragua on the Cheap With its cobbled streets and shady plazas, Granada is Nicaraguas number one tourist destination. Businesses are used to catering to foreign visitors, services are plentiful and standards are high. And for the past three years tourist numbers have risen. If you like the idea of a running your own B&B, bar or gallery, then there are excellent opportunities here. Many of the local restaurants and bars are expat-owned and a great place to meet people. Nicaragua is one of the cheapest countries on our radar. And although the national currency is the Cordoba, American dollars are accepted in most places. Youll get a steak dinner in the nest restaurant for around $13. Regular fare at typical restaurants runs about half that. In Granada, a room or suite with a kitchenette ranges from $300 to $500 a month to rent. And when its time to look for your own home, youll nd good online access to local English-speaking realtors. Theres no need to give up lifes niceties when you choose this spot. You can practice yoga, nd English-language bestsellers install wireless Internet and use Skype to save on the cost of international calls. Cable TV costs $18 a month, with many of the channels in English. And Granada is easy to get to. It lies just 45 minutes from Managuas airport, which offers good nonstop service to Houston, Atlanta, and Miami; just two-and-a-half hours away. Medical care is cheap and Granada is within 40 minutes of one of the nest hospitals in Central America. A visit to a doctor is $15. Finding a doctor that speaks English isnt a problem and often hell give you his number in case of emergencies. If you want a really affordable life in a beautiful, vibrant citya place full of opportunities for starting a business and enjoying social activities...then Granada is for you, says Darrell. Editors Note: For an extended version of this article, including a full list of costs, see: Intliving.com/easyplaces.
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sidewalks replaced with new decorative tiles, owerboxes, and streetlamps. The main plaza has just undergone a major renovation. High-speed Internet, cable and satellite television is everywherefor better or for worse. (Yes, you can watch your favorite English-language programs.) Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar, so you wont have to do currency conversions off the top of your head. There really are no expat clubs in Cotacachimostly you see people on the street and are introduced to them at parties. However, there are two expat-owned restaurants. One, just one for breakfast and lunch is called Solid Rock and its one the main street. The other is called Kippers Fried Chicken and it is on the northwest corner of the main plaza, across from the Catholic church. And its not as difcult to get here as you might think. Sure, its a mountain town in the Andes, but a four or ve hour ight from the U.S. brings you to Quito, and from there its a two-hour drive. Roatan: Your White-Sand Island After 28 years Im still enchanted by Roatans natural beauty just like the rst day I set foot on the island. Its a quality of life that I cant imagine having in the U.S., says expat Marian Seaman. If youre a scuba diver or have enjoyed a cruise to the Western Caribbean, you may have already discovered the Bay Islands. Nestled in the L formed by Belize and the north coast of Honduras and protected from most hurricane activity, Roatan is the

Im enchanted by Roatans beauty... Its a quality of life I cant imagine having in the U.S.

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INVESTM E N T

DIVIDENDS

Profits in the Power Sector


By Chris Hunter The Brazil Prot Playbook
demand as it does in Brazil. Thats because in emerging markets, growth puts higher demand on electricity use due to the necessary infrastructure build-out that goes with it. Also, growth in Brazil is lifting millions of people out of poverty for the rst time. And one of the rst things these newly-minted consumers do is use more powerfor new TVs, washing machines, fridges, etc. My favorite way to play this growthincome combination is through a company called CPFL Energia S.A. This lists as an American Depository Receipt (ADR) on the New York Stock Exchange under the ticker CPL. Because its an ADR, you dont have to be a registered investor in Brazil to buy it. You can buy it just like a U.S. stock through your regular broker. CPFL sells power to about 6.4 million Brazilians, mainly in the states of So Paulo home to the megacity of So Pauloand Rio Grande do Sul in the far south. And in 2009, it provided 13% of the countrys entire power needs, distributing roughly 37,821 gigawatt hours of electricity. Even better CPFL generates its power mostly from cheap, clean hydroelectric plants. Its also involved in two biomassgeneration projects, two thermoelectric I recently traveled to Brazil to research the best ways to play the explosive growth there for the next decade and beyond. Weve been recommending certain real estate markets in Brazil for years now. But the new The Brazil Prot Playbook contains all you need to know about investing in Brazil from right there at home. See: Intliving.com/brazilinvestor.

WNING STOCKS WITH high dividend yields can be a great way to avoid stocks with no protsthe kind so popular during the dot-com bubble. Dividend payers are typically big, mature and protable companies. Boring. But unlikely blow up. Boring is good, in other words. Dividends pay you to own a stock they can give you a regular income and they can help you pick protable, mature companies that generate lots of cash. My favorite way to get paid dividends is in the Brazilian power-generating sector. The reason I like to sh these waters is that Brazil is one of the worlds fastest growing economies; its on track to grow by 5.5% this year. And it takes electricity to keep that growth engine going. I like to think of investing in dividend paying Brazilian utilities as income meets growth you get an income stream from the dividend checks but you also get capital appreciation, as the Brazilian economy grows. Now, before I tell you my favorite stock in this sector, theres one other thing you should know. If America were to suddenly start growing at 5.5% a year, it wouldnt put the same upward pressure on electricity

power plants and seven wind farms. So, this is a company thats very much geared to a future of higher commodities prices. But thats just the growth side of the equation. The income side is equally appealing. According to Capital IQ, at writing CPFL stock is yielding 5.41%, meaning it pays back 5.41% of the current share price in dividend checksalmost double the yield Uncle Sam pays you to loan it money for 10 years. So ask yourself which youd rather do. Buy a 10-year Treasury note that pays out just over 3% and is denominated in a sinking dollar or buy stock in a solid, cash-generating business (in a fast-growing economy) that pays out 5.4% a year and is denominated in a strong, commoditiesbacked currency, the real.

ILs Currency Corner


By Gary Scott
Gary has been a contributing editor since ILs launch more than 30 years ago. His latest report, Cash in Crash, is available from Amazon.com at $4.99.

Seven Currencies to Beat Ination


One way to beat low interest rates and ination is with a highinterest-paying multi-currency spread. For example, the U.S. dollar interest rate right now is 0.18%not enough with high gas prices to drive to the bank. Instead, invest equally in a spread of these seven currencies that earn on average 7.12% per annum. Australian dollar 4.95% Brazilian real 11.92% Chilean peso 5.52% Hungarian forint 6.10% Russian ruble 8.25% Indonesian rupee 9.71% South Korean Won 3.45% Average interest rate 7.12% You gain a higher yield, and global diversication. Each of the countries has a low national decit and a good trade balance, both factors that encourage a strong currency. There are risks that some of these currencies could fall versus the dollar, but some are also likely to riseas has been the case with Brazil, Australia and Chiles currency. One easy way to invest in these currencies is with Exchange traded funds (ETFs) that are traded on U.S. stock exchanges. Three examples are the iShares MSCI South Korea Index (NYSEArca: EWY), Chile Index Fund (ECH) and Market Vectors Indonesia Index (NYSEArca: IDX ).

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AUGUST 2011

OF F SH ORE

What to Ask Yourself Before You Choose Your Offshore Haven


By Bob Bauman
aven nations in which privacy was government? Important here means how likely expected, guaranteed and delivered is the haven and its government to come under were numerous just two or three pressure from your home country on tax and related decades ago. Theyre many fewer matters? today. But you do still have choices. The United Arab Emirates, because it is said to Which is right for you? It will depend. be a friendly nation in an unstable region, enjoys Understand that each offshore haven is unique. the favor of the U.S. government. Haven income is A country that provides the best banking regulations important to the UAE, so Washington wont want to wont necessarily be the best place for incorporating lean too hard on it over a non-strategic issue. The a business, just as the best jurisdiction for privacy Cayman Islands, on the other hand, has little or no wont necessarily be the best for an offshore trust strategic value to Washington and is a constant target (although the two usually do go together). of the IRS. Nevertheless, some general guidelines for 5. Does the haven wave a red ag? Private choosing an asset or tax haven apply across the nancial dealings with high-prole tax havens may board. Here are seven important considerations. raise a red ag in tax collectors ofces around the 1. Is the haven a completely independent world. sovereign nation? Or is it a territory, dependency, The Cayman Islands, Switzerland and or colony of a larger country, (usually the United Liechtenstein are examples. Panama, Austria and Kingdom)? While the government of a dependency Luxembourg are a step below that level. Bermuda or territory may have favorable legislation to attract is lower still, though it doesnt offer the secrecy foreign investment, these laws are the others do. But then, any tax haven usually hostage to the political and always upsets tax collectors in high-tax economic policies prevailing in nations. the mother country. For example, 6. How efcient and convenient the last word on the laws of the are the professional services? Are Americans must Cayman Islands comes from competent personnel available to London. serve your needs? How well do they look to foreign2. Does the haven respect speak English? How easy is it to visit asset havens privacy? Strong privacy laws are the place? Whats the time difference a must in any haven that you between you and where you may want for economic consider. Is privacy built into its to do business offshore? law? Under what circumstances Nothing substitutes for personal freedom. can creditors or the government contact with the people who are obtain information about your entrusted with your assets. Its best to wealth, or even seize it? visit your money periodically, and so much the better Ideally, nancial privacy should be built into if its in a place that you enjoy visiting. the legal code and violations of privacy should 7. What, if any, taxes are levied on the havens be prosecutable with civil or criminal sanctions. foreign users? The rst requirement of a haven However, even in jurisdictions with the best privacy is to offer capital preservation. Nonetheless, to laws, its foolish to violate the tax or moneyinclude a haven country that scores highly in capital laundering laws of your home country. preservation but that also has high withholding, 3. Do the local citizens support the havens corporate, estate or other taxes, is to ignore an offshore status? In some havens, local citizens are important consideration. True nancial security must not the primary beneciaries of pro-offshore laws or include the maximum possible tax avoidance allowed banking secrecy. Since taxes are low to non-existent by law, the greatest possible nancial privacy, the and the local lawyers have not evolved into predators, highest level of asset protection and access to the locals may have little interest in privacy or bank most protable investments available. secrecy. Sadly, Americans these days must look to foreign That attitude contrasts with Switzerland, Austria, asset havens for the sort of economic freedom once and Panama, where strong privacy laws and traditions guaranteed by the United States Constitution. If you affect a signicant segment of the citizenry who work want to be smart, select haven nations for placement in the offshore nancial sector or have related jobs. of your assets according to the relative safety and 4. Is the haven important to your own home privacy such places guarantee by law.

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E XPLORAT IO N

Boca Chica: Panamas (Still) Hidden Paradise


By Dan Prescher
had no idea it was like this, my wife Suzan said. This part Today in Boca Chica you of the coast is like Pirates of the Caribbean! nd mostly large parcels We were standing on the dock of Seagull Cove Lodge, of land for sale. a tidy little boutique hotel just outside the village of Boca Chica in Panamas Chiriqu Province. Behind us, redwith no problem, but roofed bungalows peeked through the lush palms and bougainvillea its not something I on the hillside overlooking the cove. In front of us, a breeze encourage. rippled the water of the Chiriqu Gulf, gently rocking the sloops Wed checked out and catamarans anchored in the bay and pushing white, puffy Allens website, Chiriqu clouds through the sky above the thickly wooded islands scattered Coastal Real Estate offshore. (chiriquicoastal.com), Some of these boats have been anchored here for months, before coming to the said Derek, who, along with his wife, Avril, two children and a cat, area and knew that the sailed their sloop from South Africa to Panama and now manage property situation in Seagull Cove Lodge. Boca Chica was unique for a couple of reasons. Climbing into the boat tied at the dock we began our tour One, the ROP issue puts many desirable properties off the list around Boca Brava Grande, the largest island in the area, and a few for anyone wanting the assurance of a direct deed. And much of the of the other islands near Boca Chica, where locals and expats have titled land that is available is still in large parcelsthere hasnt been carved out everything from personal cabaas and hilltop spas and a lot of subdivision in the area. restaurants to large backpacker hostels. Thats what makes Boca Chica so exciting for us. We made it Our guide and real estate contact, Allen Rosen, explained the from the modern airport at David, Chiriqus capital, to the tiny property situation to us as our boat sailed past village of Boca Chica in just over an hours easy drive islands sporting wave-worn grottos and patches of on a good road, but just a few years ago it was very white, sandy beach. different. The road that goes south from the PanThere is titled land available out here on American Highway to the Boca Chica coast used to be the islands, Allen said, but there is also a lot of A new road what was politely called a challengethat is, miles right-of-possession land that doesnt come with of potholed hell. a direct deed. Some of the beach-side bungalows now puts this Now that the road has been paved, the Boca Chica youre seeing on these islands have been here for in reach. area is within easy reach of David But the property years on Rights of Possession (ROP) property development that infrastructure improvements inevitably bring to a newly-opened patch of tropical paradise like this just hasnt happened yet in a big way. The area RIGHTS OF POSSESSION AND is called Boca Chica only because the village of Boca Chicatwo WHAT IT MEANS TO YOU streets, a dock, and a gas stationis there where the road ends at the coast. In Panama, land can be acquired through derecho posesorio The nearest town of any real size is Horconcitos, back toward (possession rights), which permits a buyer to acquire a right the Pan-American Highway, where you can buy bread, milk, and to possession that is transferable in perpetuity, so long as the beer and choose between a couple of local restaurants. land is actively used for the public good. But with David now within easy reach, no one in Boca Chica This is a gray area, and the Panamanian courts are working lacks for amenities any more. The wine list at Seagull Cove Lodge was more than adequate to complement anything on the menu, to clarify the condition; a favorable judgment would make from steak to lobster to spaghetti carbonara. And although you still derecho posesorio an acceptable form of ownership for tourism wouldnt want to have a major medical emergency in Boca Chica, development. Until then, we recommend that you never Davids modern hospitals and clinics are within easy driving range, purchase a property with possession rights only, even though giving the area broader appeal to expats who want or need a nearby we know of people who have done so without a problem. See: modern medical option. Intliving.com/pospan. However, this is still cattle country, and for the most part the

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Boca Chica Essentials


Both AirPanama (Flyairpanama.com) and Aeroperlas (Aeroperlas.com) y from Panamas Albrook Airport in Panama City to David for approximately $80 one way. Once there, major rental car companies are right at the airport. Its easy to get from the airport to the Pan-American Highway, and just 24 miles east of David is the turnoff for Horconcitos and Boca Chica. You can get a ferry at Boca Chica out to Boca Brava Grande or to any of the other islands. Seagull Cove Lodge (Seagullcovelodge.com) is on the mainland; the turnoff is just before you reach the village of Boca Chica. Cala Mia (Boutiquehotelcalamia.com) is on Boca Brava Grande and can be reached by ferry from the village. Allen Rosens real estate ofce (Chiriquicoastal.com) is in Horconcitos. Allen knows his way around the coast and the islands and can explain or nd out more about most real estate being offered in the area.

HOLGER METTE/iSTOCK

vast farms and pasturelands that occupy the coastal plains havent been acquired, subdivided, and improved for individual home construction, even on ocean and bay fronts. Allen does list some hilltop, ocean-view properties that local farmers have cut out of their holdings and put on the market in lots from one to ve hectares (about 2.5 to 12 acres) for $10 per meter or $100,000 per hectare. Back when the road was still keeping casual visitors away from this stretch of coast, Istana Properties established a luxury residential community, a place to really get away from it all. Lots and homes are still available there. The shoreline at Istana is incredibly beautiful, and Allen showed us one fabulous home on the market there at $995,000and the ocean frontage and beautiful construction made it worth every penny. But even with the improved road, not many other developers have followed in Istanas footsteps. Youll still nd most of the Boca Chica coast occupied by boutique hotels like Seagull Cove Cerr Cerro Cerro r Punta P nta Punta Volcan Volc n Volcan c Sa San San A dres Andr Andres Andres

COSTA COSTA RICA RICA


Corredor Corredor Corredor r r

PANAMA PANAMA
Boquete Boqu t Boquete quet Soloy Solo Soloy loy Horc ncito Horconcitos Horconcitos r o Boca hi a Boca Ch ca Boca Chica oca hica

Go f Golfo d os Golfo de llos Mosquitos Mosquitos uito Mosquitos

a Concepcion o epcio o La Concepcion

D v David David

Pedregal P dr Pedre l Pedregal dreg Puerto Puerto u ro Armuelles Arm el e Armuelles

Tole Tole

Lodge, deep sea shing camps, weekend homes of locals, and cattle pasture. We dont expect that to last. Improvements to the airport in David and the growing popularity of Panamas Chiriqu province will bring more people, local and foreign, to the area and start focusing more attention on Boca Chica and other beautiful stretches of coast in the province. In fact, Allen is currently laying the groundwork for a project that will feature something entirely missing in the area right nowcondos. On our way back from our boat tour we stopped in a small cove on Boca Brava Grande island to have lunch at Cala Mia, a resort hotel atop a ridge with breathtaking views of the ocean. The owners live on another hilltop on the island, where they make much of the cheese and grow the organic produce used in their restaurant. Like Seagull Cove Lodge, you would never nd Cala Mia unless you knew exactly where to look in this stunning tropical hideaway of islands, inlets, coves, and coastline. And its precisely that remoteness that so many of the expats around here are looking for. Rights of Possession concerns aside, when you cruise past in an open boat and see the little cabaas and houses on sandy beaches and under waving palm trees, you can almost hear the pirates singing Yo ho ho while they bury their chests of treasure. These islands and bays are exactly where youd go if you had treasure to bury and you wanted to be sure there was but a slim chance anybody else would ever nd it. The remoteness is part of what makes Boca Chica a treasure itself, and that treasure now comes with the added bonus of having David and the rest of Panamas remarkable Chiriqu Province within easy reach. Editors note: Check out Dans short video tour of Boca Chicas coast: Intliving.com/bocaboat.
AUGUST 2011 I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G

Isla oca B a Islla Boca Brava a Isla Boca Brava

G f Golfo de Chiriqu h riqu q Golfo de Chiriquii

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E NTREP R E NE U R PRO F IL E

Tapping into Ecuadors Rising Middle Class


By Herb T erry
HEN HENRY FIRST CAME TO Ecuador from his native Alabama, he was 40 years old and his Spanish was less than basic. I didnt even know what an amigo was, he admits with an easy laugh. In high school, Henry had chosen an elective class in typing instead of Spanish, reasoning thus: Ill never need Spanish and there are more pretty girls in typing. But today, married to a pretty Ecuadorian, Henry is one of Quitos most successful businessmen. For two years he travelled to Ecuador arranging mahogany shipments for a furniture company. Not yet accustomed to the lastminute nature of business here, he grew frustrated with logistical challenges and decided to leave for good. He had bought the ticket for his nal ight home when Ecuador again deed all his scheduling. At the very last minute, Henry met his future wife. After a long-distance relationship Henry decided to seek permanent work in Ecuador. He rst tried exporting foods. That was what one did in developing countries, wasnt it? Export resources? But it was when he took a break from international trade that he discovered an untapped market. In 1999, teaching an English class at EPN University, he saw a gap between services and student needs. An entrepreneurial itch compelled him to draft a business plan; his wife translated it, and he pitched it to the administration. They gave him a salary of $200 and six months to produce results. Since then, the Universitys language institute has grown from three teachers to over 170 and from a yearly student population of 479 to over 25,000. His compensation has grown too. Henry explains that business here is problematic, but that there is a market for solutions. It is because of the many problems, he says, that so many opportunities exist. While he worked to get things off the ground in 1999, ination was out of control and banks were closing. Nonetheless, people wanted English classes and Henrys model provided that service in a way they felt was worth paying foreven during hard times. Henry is humble about his success: The basics are competitive here, he explains, referring largely to customer service. While many countries fear the demise of their middle class, Ecuador slowly adapts
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Quito, Ecuador, is ripe with business opportunities if youre entrepreneurial. to the demands of a rising one. But even though job titles have changed, a belief in the old hacienda economy of land owners and peasants persists. The popular view that advancement is only available through connections encourages the ambitious to dedicate their energies to social networking as opposed to improving businesses. There are Ecuadorian visionaries who see the possibilities, however. They, along with newcomers like Henry, are launching alternatives to existing, and poorly-run, businesses. While providing an educational service that people need, Henry has created hundreds of well-paid jobs. And there are countless sectors in which others might prosper here by doing the same. Ecuador offers the chance to be a pioneerwith all the risks and benets that role entails. When asked about risks, Henry says that regulations can change quickly while bureaucracy can be frustratingly slow. He suggests these precautions: Start small; keep extra money saved in an economically more stable country (many Ecuadorians do this, too); and, when buying property, pay the U.S.-like fees of the most reputable local attorneys (to avoid scams). Another issue is getting here. The most common visa for entrepreneurs is the Investors Visa. Options such as tourist or student visas offer the chance to scope out a market before committing to investment in a new business. You can nd current information about visas and their requirements here: Ecuador.org/visas.htm. When asked about the benets of life here, Henry smiles. We spoke in his beautiful Quito home, which is tended by a housekeeper. Its gigantic terrace overlooks a nearby valley town. Luxuries are affordable, he says at last. He is taking more frequent vacations than he could when in the States, eating better, sleeping better; in many ways, he is living betterand he didnt have to wait until retirement.

Ecuador offers the chance to be a pioneerwith all the risks and benefits.

SHELLY PERRY/iSTOCK

ILs Calendar of Events


Southern Pacific ParadiseFor Less
Chill Weekend, Ojochal, Costa Rica November 17 20
he knife-edge mountain ridges in Costa Ricas Southern Zone curve like a dragons spine, twisting and turning their way to the horizon and dropping sharply to the long sandy beaches that run along the coastline. Pristine forests teeming with wildlife cloak the mountain slopesyet youre only three hours from an international airport. Here you can sip an espresso bought at a little coffee shop. You can ll a picnic basket with goodies...warm baguettes, Brie, smokehouse chicken, mangoes, and freshly-squeezed juice. You can meet friends at the beach, sun yourself on the sand, take a dip in the warm ocean...

You may think thats too pricey a fantasy for you to afford in well-discovered Costa Rica. But in fact, you can own a lot here for only $40,000. It used to be tough getting to this spot, and that kept property prices low. But a new highway that opened last year is bringing more tourists and property shoppers to this southern Pacic retreat. Word is getting out. And, if history is any guide, prices are likely to go up. Nows a smart time to check this place outbefore it booms. And you can do it on a Chill Weekend, as an IL subscriber, for only $250. Youll get four days heremeals, accommodation and transport included. For more information, email: details@paciclots.com.
STEVE LINDER

You Could Be Living Your Dream Las Vegas, NV October 6 8


If money were no object, what would your dream retirement look like? This fall, well show you where you can easily make that dream your realityfor $697 (or less) a month. Maybe you long for your own cottage on a quiet beach...a grand apartment in a city vibrant with concerts and cafs...a mountain villa where the air is crisp...or even your own vineyard amid gently rolling hills... Whatever you fantasize about...come with that idea in mind. Dream big. This October in Las Vegas, well pinpoint for you on a map the best-value places in the world to turn your dream into realityfor a small fraction of what youd pay at home Whatever your ideal retirement looks like, we can help you make it happen. Youll meet our best contacts, rub elbows with the experts, get all your questions answered, and jump-start your new life overseas. For more information, see: Intliving.com/LIOSMag.

Explore the Secrets of Costa Rica


Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar San Jose August 30 September 1, 2011
osta Rica is one country that may truly have it all: A yearround tropical climate, modern cities, Caribbean beaches, Pacic coastline, rain forests, lush valleys, and majestic mountains. With its slower pace of living, fresh foods and reputation as one of the greenest, cleanest countries in the world (Costa Rica has little pollution and lots of clean water and fresh air)its no wonder locals are considered the happiest people on the planet. And despite the fact that Costa Rica is a popular destination for both tourists and retirees, real estate prices there are reasonablejust as reasonable, in fact, as in Mexico and other Central American countries, like Belize or Panama. Most retirees settle in the Central Valleywithin a 90-minute drive from San Jose. There, prices are very affordable. (As they are in the Lake Arenal area, to the north of San Jose.) But if the beach is your thing, dont worry. Costa Rica has more than 1,000 miles of coastline. If you know where to look, youll nd some incredible bargains there right now, too. Join us from August 30 September 1, 2011, for our Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar, and well tell you exactly where to go, who to see, and what kinds of properties make sense if youd like to buy in this country. This time next yearyou could be living your dream life in Costa Rica. And the Live and Invest in Costa Rica Seminar is the best, most efcient way to make it happen. For more information, tel. (toll-free) +1(866)381-8446; website: Internationalliving.com/events.

Ecuador Has it All Quito November 9 12


A catalogue of Ecuadors benets reads like a retirees wish-list. This country has taken top marks in our Global Retirement Index two years runningand with good reason. First, its the most affordable destination on our beat. You could own a home on the beach for $115,000. You can enjoy a four-course lunch for $2 or stay in a nice hotel for less than $20. You can get top-notch medical care at one-fourth to one-tenth what youd pay in the U.S. For many, the top draw is the climate. The beaches are tropical, but up in the Andes, the weather is mild and spring-like year-round. If this is ticking the boxes for you, join us in Ecuador this November for our Live and Invest in Ecuador seminar. Well introduce you to our best contacts, show you where the best values and best opportunities are, and help you get from where you are now, to the place thats right for you in Ecuador. For more information, see: Intliving.com/contactevents.
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TRAVEL

Wander Lisbons Alfama Neighborhood


By Darius Fisher
SARAH BOSSERT/iSTOCK

F THE GRAND CAPITALS OF EUROPE, Lisbon is unjustly neglected by North Americans visiting the Old World. At the edge of the continent, facing the Atlantic Ocean, its just a little off the beaten track. But this is an inexpensive city packed with just as much charm as Rome, Paris or Berlin. The earthquake of 1755 leveled most of Lisbon including Baixa, which was rebuilt on a grid system with elegant Pombaline architecture. On the hill to the west youll nd Barrio Alto, the heart of the citys nightlife and shopping. Quiet during the day, this hip part of town swells with people by night, eager to dance and drink in the narrow alleyways. But for me, the best neighborhood of all is Alfama. Tumbling downhill toward the Tagus River, Alfama is the oldest part of the city. Alfama comes from the Arabic word Al-hamma meaning fountain. The neighborhood survived the devastating earthquake relatively intact, and over time it became the home of Lisbons shermen and sailors. Today, Alfama maintains a faded air of grandeur; you can sense that time slowed down many years ago. Getting lost and wandering the cobblestone streets of Alfama is my favorite thing to do in this city. The Arab inuence is still evident, with high walls enclosing secret courtyards, winding lanes, side-street bars and restaurants. Clothing drapes from the windows creating colorful ags that wave in the breeze. Dogs chase each other up hidden stairways. Elderly city dwellers gather on street corners, drinking beer, smoking cigarettes and talking politics. Rickety wooden yellow trams chug past, relics of a different time yet still in use. Many of Alfamas residents have lived here since childhood and are now well into their golden years. Theres a constant shufe of elderly Portuguese women pushing carts lled with produce. Others wait in windows while lunch cooks on the stove. Given the neighborhoods maritime connections its no

A Secret Side Trip


Belem, only a few miles from Lisbon, is the seaport from where Portuguese ships left during the Age of Discovery. Today, its touristy but has some nice green space, museums and most famously, Casa Pasteis de Belm, a 165-year-old bakery that serves Pastel de Belem, a aky, egg custard pastry. Opt for the cinnamon/sugar sprinkle on top and enjoy this typical Portuguese treat. Down the street, the Maritime Museum hosts hundreds of model ships and interesting artifacts from Portugals maritime history. The best way to get to Belem is by cab. Itll cost you about $11 dollars.

surprise youll nd a number of family-run sh joints serving mackerel, sardines, and other catch. But its the bacalau, or codsh, thats the real pride of Portugal. (The Portuguese apparently have 365 For just $3, tour Lisbon and the old ways to prepare cod, neighborhood of Alfama aboard Tram 28. one for each day of the year.) Try bacalau com nata, a baked casserole of cod, cream and onions. Also check out the sardinhas assadas, the ubiquitously cheap pan-fried sardines. At lunch, most restaurants serve three delicate sardines, each about four inches long and lled with a cage of tiny bones. For about $9, the sardines come with a beer, potatoes, a small salad and an. A look around the Igreja Santa Engracia is an Alfama must. On the plan of a Greek cross this churchs marble interior is the last resting place of presidents and literary gures from Portugals past. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, meandering through the nearby Feira da Ladra, a massive open-air ea market behind the church, is a great way to spend an afternoon. Vendors hawk everything you can imagine. This is the place for tiny treasures, ancient coins, antique brass instruments or vintage leather bags. After youre done poking around, hike up to the miradouro (viewpoint) about 10 minutes away for a majestic look across the city. Grab a cool drink and take in the scene. Below you thousands of orange-tiled roofs speckle the view. In the distance you can see the 25 de Abril Bridge, a red suspension bridge that resembles the Golden Gate. Lisbon is a city of hills but if youre not up for a trek, take Tram 28, the famous, old electric tram that swirls around Alfamas tight corners all the way down to Biaxa and Chiado. This $3 ride is a fun, inexpensive way to tour the city. By 7 p.m. most of the neighborhood restaurants are beginning to buzz. Wander into any of the local spots, and you can get a delicious thinly sliced piece of lemon and olive oil-doused steak for about $10. If youre feeling adventurous try the caracis (snails). Alfama by night makes for a lovely after dinner stroll. One thing to sip before you retire for the evening is ginginha, a quintessential Portuguese liqueur. Served in hole-in-wall bars for about $1.40 a shot, this cherry drink tastes like melted down lollipops and makes for a tasty desert digestif. If youre up for it, duck into a bar and hear the slow, melancholic strum of Fado, a style of guitar music. Fado originated in Lisbon, and many trace its origin back to the sailors of Alfama. The songs describe heartbreak, loss and the sorrows of sea life.

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TRAV EL

Trek Bolivia: A Machu Picchu Alternative


By Katie Hilborn
DAVOR LOVINCIC/iSTOCK

orget the trek to Machu Picchu, Peru. While the pretrek can be nished in Columbian city is truly a work of art, it is difcult not three or four days. to feel disappointed after hiking for four days only to On the rst day, nd a hoard of tourists who got to the top in an hour when you step off by train. Instead of following the masses, why not the local bus from La venture off the beaten path and hike Bolivias El Choro Trail? Paz, you nd yourself This trek features the same characteristics as the Inca Trail in surrounded by black, Cusco, minus the crowds and for a fraction of the cost. Walk in glistening mountains. the steps of an ancient civilization along the cobble-stoned road The path ahead extends network, which was once among the most widespread and highly far into a narrow valley Hiking and mountain biking are popular ways advanced transportation systems in the ancient world. before disappearing to enjoy Bolivias spectacular El Choro trail. Running from Ecuador in the north all the way to Chile in the into cloud-covered south, the network is an astonishing 25,000 miles long. It consists forests. Local Bolivians of two north-south roads with numerous minor sections branching herding llamas in and out of the gorge weave past as you make your off; one of which is now the route of the El Choro Trail. way along the beautifully preserved path. With their The pathway takes you through three ecosystems colorful skirts, shawls and tiny top hats, these beginning with the snow-capped High Andes predominantly short, plump local women 15,000 feet from sea level in the city of make for an arresting sight as they trudge Lago La BOLIVIA La Cumbre, then descending into the along on their three to four-day hike up Titicaca subtropical vegetation of the Yungas; a and down the narrow valley. pocket of the Amazon nearly 10,000 The vegetation magically changes Chairo Coroico PERU feet below. as you descendbecoming warmer La Cumbre The El Choro is one of the easiest El Choro Trail and greener just short of the village Desaguadero o La Paz treks in the Cordillera Range and is where youll sleep the rst night. Little suitable for all ages. The steady descent huts with clay walls and straw ceilings is kind on the lungs but can be tough on sit among banks of lush grass while Rio Desaguadero the kneesa brace or an elastic bandage, vines engulf the stone fences and houses. r trekking poles and good hiking boots are Its reminiscent of The Hobbit. A little old recommended. Depending on your stamina, the Bolivian woman comes out to greet the weary travelers in some ancient Incan dialect while your guide serves as a translator. After a token payment (under a dollar per night) to the elderly lady you are free to set up your tent in amongst the homes of the locals. Then it is a case of tucking into a hot meal and a cup of coca Wait until you arrive in Bolivia to book your touritll save teaan apt reward after a long day of trekking. you a bundle. Tours booked in La Paz, the capital, are relatively You set off again the following morning into the deep, misty cheapa three day trek with guide, camping and food will run jungle below, this time passing through thick vegetation and around $85. However, if you book via an American operator or hugging cliffs above the river beneath. The trek ends in the coca online, you will pay $250 to $375. (Trekking Machu Picchu will farming village of Chairo where you are rewarded with a true set you back even further, costing over $500.) sense of accomplishment after a tough physical challenge and a unique cultural submersion. From here, catch a taxi to Coroico for Most tour operators in La Paz are located around Sagr100 Bolivianos (US$14) or alternatively, hitchhiking is common naga street. Just walk down the block and youll come across a throughout the country and can save cash. dozen agencies willing to bargain on price. Club Andino on Calle Its worth spending a few days exploring Coroico. The hiking Mxico 1638 can provide information and recommendations for trails nearby take you to waterfalls and rivers, and in town the area treks and hiring a guide, tel. 0102 2312-875. bars and restaurants are worth a look. The oxygen-rich air, warm While bargaining might be okay when dealing with a tour weather and friendly locals make it a comfortable respite. A bus to operator, it is important to remember that guides are paid very La Paz will set you back 250 Bolivianos (US$36) and take roughly little. Dont forget to tip. three hours.

The Smart Way to Trek El Choro

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PR OP ERT Y PI C KS

VACATION HOMES CLOSE TO THE U.S.


$270,000
2 HOURS FROM HOUSTON

C A SC O VI E J O, Panama City
You may live in a nice neighborhood, but chances are its not a UNESCO World Heritage site. Fewer than 1,000 locations have made this list of the most beautiful places on the planet and no more than a handful can actually be lived in. Panama Citys Casco Viejo district is one of them. This 1,500 square-foot fully furnished unit, featuring one bedroom, 1.5 baths, private roof terrace and water views, is priced at just $270,000. Modern meets antiquity in the marble oors and Italian-style kitchen. The apartment comes fully furnished for a turn-key move in. The unit forms part of the Monteori building on Plaza Herrera. It is within walking distance of some of Cascos best restaurants and nightspots. And this spot is closer at hand than you might think, just three or four hours ight time. American Airlines ies direct from Dallas or Miami while Continental, United and Delta also operate services from Houston and Atlanta. For more information, email: Patrizia@arcoproperties.com.

$145,000 M RIDA, Mexico


For exclusive urban city living in Latin America with a super short journey time, look no further than the colonial splendor of Mrida on Mexicos Yucatn Peninsula. This two-bedroom, 1.5-bath home is located in the so-called Gringo Gulchthe most sought-after neighborhood in the city. All the key attractions and shopping areas of El Centro are within walking distance. The home features an oversized roof terrace, glass-walled open oor, downstairs garden and pool. The easy-to-maintain property has just been completely renovated by local architect Victor Cruz and his signature design touches are notable throughout. The city is a three-hour drive from Cancn but you can y straight into Manuel Crescencio Rejn International Airport from Houston, Miami or Las Vegas. Journey time from Miami is just two hours. For more information, visit: www.mexintl.com.

4 HOURS FROM ATL ANTA

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AUGUST 2011

ESTILO ARQUITECTURA

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ARCO PROPERTIES

2 HOURS 20 FROM MIAMI

$285,000 L A S TE R R E N A S, Dominican Republic


This 2,368 square feet house is just a short 200-yard walk from Las Ballenas beacha gorgeous curve of golden sand, wrapped around the azure Caribbean Sea. The home is also close to the stores, bars and restaurants in the heart of Las Terrenas. This property is one of only seven homes in a small private community. It boasts three bedrooms, two bathrooms and separate guest quarters. It has an open-plan layout, American-style kitchen and feels spacious, fresh and airy. Its location makes it ideal for vacation rentals. The route into Las Ballenas was made all the easier when Saman El Catey International Airport, which serves province of Saman in which Las Terrenas sits, threw open its doors back in 2006. However, its international services are quite limited. Services run to Memphis and Miami, but they are seasonal and infrequent. Most visitors will instead opt to y into Santo Domingo, which operates a string of services year-round. Las Terrenas is a 30-minute drive away if you touch down in Saman El Catey, and there are short-hop daily ights from Santo Domingo. For more information, see: Pathnderinternational.net/vacation.

TONI GREEN

$399,000 A RENAL, Costa Rica


Fly into Costa Ricas Liberia airport and take an hour-long drive north into the mountains to the 33-acre Lake Arenal. Overlooking this jewel-like lake youll nd a three-year-old home on more than an acre of land. With two bedrooms and 2.5-bathrooms its located in a private community with swimming pools, tennis courts, a stable, gym and a marina. The property even comes with a small sailboat. Lake Arenal has its own small, close-knit group of expats, some great gourmet food options and resorts offering hot springs and thermal spa treatments. You also get to wake up in the dramatically beautiful setting with the lake, live volcano, craggy mountains and national parks on the other side of your window. See: Pathnderinternational.net/vacation.

2 HOURS 45 FROM MIAMI

TERRY MORAN

AUGUST 2011

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WINDOW ON THE WORLD

Archers gallop across the National Sports Stadium during the Opening Ceremony of Nadaam festival in the Mongolian capital of Ulaan Baatar.

Mongolias Three Manly Games


By Lucy Brown

T
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AUGUST 2011

LUCY BROWN

HE POUNDING sound of hoof beats lls the air as armorclad Mongol archers deftly guide their galloping steeds. Their mounts kick up clouds of dust, skidding and pivoting sharply as the riders expertly re their arrows at randomly positioned targets. This is Nadaam or the Three Manly Games, Mongolias most important annual festival held during the national holiday from July 11 to 13. Its roots lie in Mongolian warrior traditions and include erce competitions in three disciplines: Male only wrestling, all gender archery and gritty horse races out on the open

steppe with fearless child jockeys. Celebrated throughout the country, the National Sports Stadium in the capital Ulaan Baatar hosts the biggest festivities, which open with an extravagant ceremony of horsemen, athletes, dancers, musicians and military. Parades and displays on horseback and on foot continue for hours while a whirlwind of dust, color and noise lls the stadium and saturate the senses. Agile riders clothed in spiked skull caps and traditional long tunics known as deels (still everyday attire for many in the city and on the steppe) perform tricks on horseback as platoons of uniformed, face-blackened soldiers demonstrate weapons and hand-tohand combat. Vividly costumed troupes parade the

perimeter of the stadium, waving giant ags and handfuls of gaudy balloons while oats bearing smiling beauty queens glide around. Parachutists land in the midst of synchronized dancing displays, causing momentary mayhem and raising cheers from the crowds while dapper musicians pound, toot and blast on drums, brass horns and trombones. Judges, competitors and thousands of spectators, both Mongol and foreign, squint down from the packed stands. Editors Note: Like Lucy, you too can get paid for your travel photos. Find out how at: Thephotographerslife.com/ signup/workshops.

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PROPERTY FOR SALE
2 MASTER SUITE BEACHFRONT ONLY $169,000!!! In Torio Panama. Completely gutted and remodeled house with free daily sunset shows on the developing western Azuero Peninsula. This beautiful 2 story home has A/C in all rooms, hot water and tile throughout, seperate laundry room and half bath downstairs. Giant covered patio in the front and extra large covered patio/carport in the rear. Youll thank me in the rainy season. Home has about 2,000 sq. ft. of living space and the fenced lot is about 1,000 sq. meters. Great shing, beachcombing and nearby turtle nesting area... knoppsells@yahoo.com for info & photos. ECUADOR PROPERTY SERVICES The trusted name in Ecuador real estate www.ecuadorpropertyservices.com

Lake Arenal, Bella Vista Estates Costa Rica Lake and Volcano view lots 2.5-13 acres Starting at 65k www.BellaVistaCostaRica.com 941-227-3517 BELIZEAN RETREAT An idyllic hideaway on Chetumal Bay. www.kickbackandstress.com Contact: tiny@kickbackandstress.com ENJOY A STRESS-FREE LIFESTYLE IN OUR SECURE GATED RETIREMENT COMMUNITY COMPLETE WITH GYM / INDOOR POOL/RESTAURANT JUST A BLOCK AWAY FROM THE LOCAL HOSPITAL IN COTACACHI, ECUADOR www.ecuadorlifestyle.com BOQUETE, PANAMA US169,999 3 bedrooms 2. 1/2 baths www.boqueteforsale.webs.com rayoridausa@aol.com

SW France, For Sale, picturesque medieval village house, Montpezat-de-Quercy, completely renovated. ppantleo@4dv.net

CHILE Enjoy the Pacic Ocean Exclusive apartments with exceptional view of the Valparaiso Bay. Prices starts from U$D 130.000. Exclusive penthouse with 3460 ft2. www.solari.cl Contact: Rod. rod@solari.cl. Phone: +56 32 2460077 Got a $50,000 budgetand want to invest in overseas property? We can show you a dozen overseas properties that all have one thing in common: a price tag of $50,000 or less. Just sign up for our free, no-obligation e-letter, the Pathnder Alert, here: http://www.pathnderinternational.net/subscribe/. Youll immediately receive your free report, Twelve Killer Real Estate Deals for $50,000or Less!

Own a home in a Caribbean ve-star resort from $800 a month. Powder beach, golf course, hotels, 27 restaurants/cafes, swimming pools, gym, and spa. Less than 2 hours from international airport. Contact cathy@mexicoalive.com for more details.

AUGUST 2011

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Costa Rica Mountain-view lot in private community, $40,000. Ocean-view lot, $120,000. Build your dream home in a lush landscape. Custom construction $100 a square foot. 150 homes already built. E-mail Pathnder@paciclots.com for info http://landfsbo.webstarts.com Land for Sale: Approximately 2 acre tract off Hwy 25A in Hamilton County, Section3, Township 1 South, Range 15 East. In walking distance of Swift Creek and not far from the Suwannee River. Price: $37,000. Contact: Almarine Francis d1holyangel@yahoo.com or call 386-397-2625

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PROPERTY FOR RENT/ TRADE/TIME-SHARE

SAN PEDRO, BELIZE. Beachfront 1, 2 & 3 bedroom fully equipped condos with TV, WIFI, A/C. Swimming Pool. Full Service Restaurant, Caf, Beachbar. PADI Dive & Tour Center. Fitness Center. Tennis Courts. www.belizeisfun.com MONTEVIDEO APARTMENT Modern comfort and convenience in Ciudad Vieja. Ideal short-term rental for business, expat and tourist travelers. www.casasarandi356.com
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TRAVEL

Blue Monkey Apartments, Riviera Maya Delightful, two-bedroom furnished garden apartment in beachside Puerto Morelos, Mexico. All amenities. Annual or seasonal. http://www.casabluemonkey. com/Mono_Azul_Apts.html

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PUBLICATIONS/MEDIA
OFFSHORE LIVING & INVESTING and HOW TO LEGALLY PROTECT YOUR ASSETS The perfect place to stay in Cuenca while you settle down!!!! Apartamentos Otorongo, provides Holyday rentals, with all you need before you nd a permanent home in Cuenca, with very affordable prices in a cozy environment by Tomebamba river Banks within 10 minutes walking from downtown. It will be a pleasure to have you here, contact us: otorongo@etapanet.net hotelotorongo.com Skype: x.montezuma Ofce : 593 72882788 Mobil: 593 97245870 PUERTO VALLARTA BEACHFRONT-luxury 2 bedroom, 2 bath, pool, maid, TV/VCR, wi-, central air, $110 summer, $150 winter, holidays-call. Photos at www.gotopv.net (818) 888-7465. Le chteau de Courtomer is an exquisite 18th-century chateau in the heart of Normandy, set amidst acres of parkland, elds, and pasture. Embellished with period antiques, refurbished to 21stcentury standards of comfort and convenience, le chteau de Courtomer offers you the perfect setting for intimate family gatherings, romantic moments, and elegant retreatsor just a grand get-away with special friends, you can rent the entire chateau for up to 15 people. Youll be within an hour or two of Paris, Deauville, Mont-Saint-Michel, and the Normandy landing beachesand minutes from bustling country markets, gourmet restaurants, antique shops, and historic chateaux and churches. For more information please contact us by telephone: (001) 410864-0854, or fax: (001) 410-864-2522 (please note that phone numbers are USA-based). We are offering our IL Subscribers a discount just give us a call and let us know you are an IL Subscriber or visit our website: www. chateaudecourtomer.com 34
I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I V I N G AUGUST 2011

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THE L AST W OR D

By Lee Harrison

Is the Easiest Place Really the Right Place for You?


retired abroad almost 10 years ago. And since then, Ive re-retired and relocated a few more times, just to continue the adventure I started back in 2001. Ive accumulated a large body of personal knowledge about where to retireand how to evaluate retirement destinations. And in addition, while preparing this issue, my fellow IL editors brought up a number of good measures by which to choose the easiest places in the world to retire. We talked about criteria like being English-friendlyease of travel and proximity to the USavailability of rentalsa strong social infrastructure, with a well-organized expat community climatehealthcare. So taking all that into account, Ive arrived at the worlds easiest place to retire for North Americans. Its Arkansas. Im serious. If easy were your overriding criteria in choosing a destination, I think Arkansas could be great. It offers loads of English-speakers, warm and friendly people, beautiful mountains, broad rivers, access to good health care, a low cost of living, and excellent infrastructure. But if you wanted to retire to Arkansas, I doubt youd have read all the way to the back of this magazine. Whats wrong with Arkansas? I say: Its too familiar. While its easy, comfortable and affordable to go there, its too similar to our cultural norm to offer the excitement and adventure I think most folks considering a retirement overseas hope to nd when moving abroad. And the same holds true for many overseas destinations that are easy places
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Adventure is the antithesis of easy.

to retire to. The easier they are, the more like Arkansas they tend to be. If you have lots of English-speakers, Walmart, Burger King, a large expat group and U.S. cable TV, then retiring there may be easy. But a year later, it may not feel like much of an adventure anymore. Now does that mean I think you should consider only destinations Id categorize as hard? No. But you should consider that an offshore destinations easiness offers most of its advantage during the settlingin periodthe time when youre hooking up the utilities, nding a dry cleaner, and dont know how to say screwdriver in a foreign language. In my experience, once youre settled, ease is less important. The wonder, awe, and adventure of your new land become more important. And the more unfamiliar your surroundings are, the more adventure and excitement youll feel. The most-successful expats I know didnt necessarily become successful because they went to easy places. Theyre successful because they went overseas prepared, with reasonable expectations, and with a sense of adventure. Things like language study, learning the culture and prepping yourself on issues like visas and legal matters will do wonders for your ease of integration. Any retirement destination can be easy if youre wellpreparedwhile most can be difcult if youre not. Reasonable expectation is important because its tempting to build a false picture in your mind about what life in a foreign land is like. Then if you dont see what youve come to expect, you could be disappointed. A number of advance visits

will help keep your expectations real. Your sense of adventure, however, is probably your most important ally. It allows you to laugh at and surmount almost any obstacle. By contrast, if you rely too heavily on ease, you may nd yourself at a loss. Remember that adventure, by its nature, is the antithesis of easy. I recently met an expat couple living in a small, local town on Nicaraguas central coast. The infrastructure is shaky, theyre the only English-speakers, and the nearest supermarket is over an hour away. Theyre one of the most well-adjusted and happiest couples Ive met abroadeven though their destination is anything but easy. On the other hand, I also visited a wellknown expat destination, where English is widespread, and many live in planned communities lled with North Americans. Here I met a handful of guys who spend most of their time complaining. In the rst example, both members of the expat couple were classic adventureseekers. In the second, the expats sought familiarityand what they found came up short. Were all different when we move abroad. Our dreams are differentand the places that make us happy abroad will span the spectrum of the globe. Whats more, the perfect place for each of us may change over time, as we grow and evolve. In my view, the right place neednt necessarily be easy, as long as its a place thats familiar enough to let you get your feet on the groundbut different enough to allow you to face each day with anticipation of adventure, excitement, and wonder.

AUGUST 2011

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