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Basics of Digital Multimeters By James L.

Gregorec
Armed only with a digital multimeter and a multipurpose pocket tool, you can troubleshoot just about any electrical problem there is and safely fix most of them

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At first glance a digital multimeter (DMM) looks complicated and intimidating. youll find it simple and logical to use. Thats as it should be: As old ECs will tell you, used properly, a multimeter could well be the most powerful diagnostic tool in your kit. Multimeters were already terrific tools when all they had were analog scale readouts. But a digital multimeter gives you the actual measurement, not a comparison on a scale that you must then interpret. Its liquid crystal display (LCD) shows measurement values in big numbers, right away, and for more functions than your Dads old volt-ohm meter did. And, most unlike the old scale, this display also alerts you to any pertinent instructions and warnings. Read on, and learn to work the dial, interpret the display and use the leads in the port panel of this updated version of an electrical contractors survival tool. A solid understanding of DMMs cant be anything but an asset. Setting The Controls The big dial centering the DMM is how you choose your measuring task or function. Whether you intend to measure one of the three elements of Ohm's Law, or a more advanced function like frequency or capacitance, you must first set the dial to the appropriate function. The dial also plays another essential role in measuring electricity: determining the range of measurement. The range you select on the dial determines the placement of the decimal point as it appears on the LCD. In turn, the position of the decimal point determines how exact your reading is. That exactitude is called resolution. To make sure we understand resolution, lets look at an example. You are going to test AC voltage, but to what range do you set the dial? As you can see in Chart One, in the transition from 20V to 200V, the decimal point has moved one place to the right, yielding a less refined resolution. So setting the dial to the lowest possible range for the job yields the best resolution.

However, if the range is set on 20V and the application youre measuring puts out more than that, the display will read OL, or Overload. Reset the dial to a higher range and take a new reading. The most refined reading, therefore, uses the range that provides the best resolution without overloading. Select the range just higher than the expected reading. The Port Panel The port panel is where you plug in your test leads. The diagram below explains where the test leads go for specific tests.

Testing Voltage Voltage is the pressure in a circuit. AC voltage is supplied by AC generators, while DC voltage is produced by chemical (batteries) or electromagnetic sources (DC generators). To test for voltage, first determine whether the application you are testing uses AC or DC voltage. Then set the dial to the appropriate function: V- for AC voltage or V for DC voltage. When testing voltage, as in all test procedures, set the range to the number just higher than the expected reading; see Chart Two for some examples. If you dont know the expected range, set the range to the highest number.

Plug your test leads into the port panel. For AC voltage, take the leads and apply them to the circuit, being sure that no part of your body contacts any part of the live circuit. You may need to adjust the position of the test leads until a reliable measurement appears on the LCD. Then read the voltage measurement displayed. When testing AC voltage, fluctuations will occur in the reading. As the test continues, the reading will stabilize to a reliable measurement. For DC voltage, connect the black test lead to the negative polarity point (ground) and the red lead to the positive polarity test point. Then take a reading. Testing Current Current is the electron flow that causes electrical equipment to operate. Turning equipment on creates whats considered a "load" on the circuit. A load is any electrical component, such as a lamp, stereo, motor or heating element, that is drawing current. Current is measured in amperes, or amps. Each load has a rated current limit that it should not exceed. If a load pulls too much current it produces excessive heat, which may cause insulation damage, component failure and, possibly, a fire. If the load pulls too much less than its rated current limit, it may perform poorly. You can test current in several ways, but in each one, first determine whether its alternating or direct. Then set the dial of your instrument to the appropriate function: A- for AC or A for DC. Next, set the range on the dial. The simplest, most commonly used current tester is the clamp meter; most electricians use a clamp meter for current measurements above one amp, but prefer a standard DMM for anything smaller. Whether its a stand-alone clamp meter or a standard DMM with a clamp head accessory, the advantage of testing current with a clamp is that you can do it without opening the circuit. Simply open the clamp head by pressing the lever. Close the clamp head around a single conductor and release the lever, being sure the conductor is completely enclosed. Take the reading.

A standard DMM with a current clamp adapter will convert the current measurement into voltage. Therefore, set the dial to the AC voltage function and select the millivolt range. Plug in the leads and open the clamp adapter. Enclose a single wire in the clamp head and take your reading.

To measure current on an open line using the test leads on a standard DMM, plug in the leads and set the dial to the right kind of current and correct amperage range. Apply the leads to the open current and take a reading. Testing Resistance Resistance opposes the flow of current. The higher the resistance, the lower the current flow. Insulation used for cables has a very high resistance, impeding current flow. Conversely, the cables copper conductor has low resistance, facilitating current flow. Proper resistance is critical. Too much resistance in electrical wires and connections can cause overheating and possible fire hazards, while too little resistance may result in a short or performance problems. Components called resistors help maintain equipments proper resistance. To test for resistance, first turn the power off in the circuit or component you are testing. Otherwise, you may not get the most accurate reading, and you may damage the DMM. After ensuring that all power is off, set the dial to the resistance mode. Select the appropriate range on the dial. Plug in your test leads, connect them to the component youre testing, and take a reading. It is important to achieve solid contact between the test leads and the circuit you are testing. Dirt, oil, bodily contact and poor test lead connection can significantly increase resistance readings. The most common resistance test is performed on a standard outlet, where ground resistance should be 1 ohm or less. Testing Continuity Why test for continuity? Because unless a circuit is continuous or complete, current cant flow through it. Switches, fuses, conductors and wire connectors demand good continuity. Good fuses and closed switches have good continuity; blown fuses and open switches have no continuity. A good habit to acquire is that of checking the test leads for good continuity (while verifying that the beep tone sounds) before using the DMM. The continuity test on a DMM is simple: Set the dial to the continuity function. Plug in your leads, ensure that the power is off, and touch the component youre testing with the leads. If there is good continuity, or a good path that allows current to flow, the DMM will beep. If there is no continuity, the DMM will not beep.

Testing Capacitance Capacitors are small, battery-like devices that store electrical energy, then release it all at once to help start motors and other high-initial-draw components. Capacitance, measured in microFarads (F or MFD) is the ability of a capacitor to hold this electrical charge. To test capacitance, set the DMM dial to the capacitance function and plug in your leads. Ensure that the capacitor has been discharged -- because testing an undischarged capacitor can fry your DMM and then connect the test leads to the capacitor terminals. Take a reading. If the measurement is near the rating listed on the capacitor, the capacitor is good. A reading significantly different from the rating indicates that you should replace the capacitor. The Industrial-Grade DMM Lets discuss five testing features you may not find on retail consumer-grade DMMs. The first is frequency; its measured in Hertz (Hz), the term for the number of times per second a waveform repeats. Maintaining the right frequency is crucial for devices that rely on AC voltage and current. Poor performance and damage can result when the frequency is wrong. To test frequency, set the function switch to Hz. Plug in your leads and connect them to the circuit. Read the measurement, then compare it with the frequency listed for the component youre testing. The second feature is True RMS measurement. An electrician taking AC measurements in commercial and industrial environments needs a DMM with the True RMS feature. Why? DMMs take AC measurements using either averaging or True RMS method. Average-responding DMMs take an AC measurement, multiply it by 1.11, and then display it on the LCD. This method is accurate when a pure sine wave exists, as in residential environments. But in commercial and industrial environments, electronic lighting ballasts, variable-speed motor drives, computers and other electronic equipment cause harmonics that distort the sine wave. In these cases, a DMM needs True RMS, which measures the waveform more accurately using a Root Mean Square (RMS) calculation. Two data-handling features available on higher-end DMMs make life immeasurably easier for the EC. Ever had to take a measurement in a dimly lit or tight area? Push the Data Hold button, and the DMM retains the measurement on the LCD until you can easily read it.Similarly, it may be important to capture the highest reading of any given measurement, especially of the in-rush current flow when equipment is first turned on. You can do this on a DMM by pushing the Max Hold button. If the reading falls to a lower value, the Max Hold function keeps the highest value on the screen. Finally, an auto-ranging DMM does away with setting the range manually. Simply select the function you are measuring and the auto-ranging DMM automatically establishes the range that yields the best resolution.

Even Rarer Tests A more specialized, less common function, the three-phase rotation tester helps ensure that motors are properly connected to the three phases. Incorrect connections make motors spin in the wrong direction, which will cause sub-par operation and may damage the motor. Turn the power on. The disk on the ThreePhase Rotation Tester should be spinning in the same direction as the rotation of the motor as described in the owner's manual. If the rotation desired is in the opposite direction, the tester is improperly connected to the three phases. Switch any two leads, and the rotation will reverse to the proper direction. Mark the three phases, then hook up your equipment. Maintaining the integrity of insulation in motors, cables and other devices is critical for a number of reasons, so some DMMs offer insulation testers. Insulation keeps current flowing safely through the copper conductor. Bad or damaged insulation, allowing electricity to leak out much as water leaks out of a broken pipe, could cause shorts, performance problems or safety complications. Pressurizing the electric wire under test with a surge of voltage, the Insulation Tester indicates whether the insulation is good. A rough rule of thumb is that good insulation is 1 megohm of resistance per 1000 volts of rating. Its safe to say that any EC past 40 got that way by understanding and using the multimeter well and frequently. The better you know them, the better and more often and the more productively and profitably these new old standbys work for you.

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