TREND RECAP

SS12 TRENDS
After last seasons toughness and androgyny, SS2012 heralds the revival of an altogether more feminine and sensual approach to makeup Skin that radiates a sportive, ultra-luminous freshness and health tunes into the seasons chic, athletic vibe ATH-ELITE Beautifully buffed, burnished metallics accenting lips, cheeks and eyes make for the most modern way to reference the idea of a summer tan ORE-INSPIRED Languorous colour washes pick up on the soft side of the season, as tints that run from delicate peach through to blurred espresso form the most relevant way to wear subtle colour and definition NOUV-EAU Dynamic, urban, neoprene shades get a contemporary rethink, as pure-pigment eyes and lips go effortlessly edgy thanks to a new ease and lack of aggression to their application NEO-N Its all sophisticated yet real, contemporary but not forced and ultimately about pure, unadulterated gorgeousness

NOUVEAU

NOUVEAU

From the romance, natureinspired shades, sinuous shapes and sensitive colouring of Art Nouveau, to the delicate side of 1920s glamour, the soft side of the season is all about tinting the skin with washes of colour. Veering between the pretty and pure and something more glamorously edged, these looks are less about recreating a retro look from the past and more about reinterpreting femininity by capturing the spirit of an era. While lips and cheeks get a look-in with stains of fondant-y peach, apricot and strawberry tones, its a trend thats essentially eye driven: lids and lower lashlines enlivened with diffuse, single-toned watercolour washes of pastels and flesh tones through to mink and rubs of charcoal. What really feels contemporary is a colour thats washed all the way up to the eyebrow, without any shading and highlighting in it, adds Terry Barber noting that structured shading and multi tones would fast turn these colours in a bridesmaid-y direction. The edges are still beautifully blurred so that the effect isnt Pop Art he adds. The kit? Second-skin texture powders and creams and bigger brushes, explains Lyne Desnoyers. A larger brush gives a looseness to the application, which is key. Youll likely want to forgo mascara, too theres still an enduring appeal to a mascara-less lash this season, now a mainstay in the beauty lexicon of modernizing a look. Its sensual, ultra feminine, fluid and refined without being sugary or cute: pared back pretty at its best

ISSEY MIYAKE

ICEBERG

JEREMY SCOTT

LOUISE GRAY

MARGARET HOWELL

PRODUCT
Kid Eye Shadow Moleskin Eye Shadow
GILES BALMAIN PAUL SMITH

Copper Plate Eye Shadow Smolder Eye Kohl Air Force Blue Cream Colour Base Scene Eye Shadow Immortal Flower Powder Blush Lovecloud Powder Blush Fleur Power Powder Blush Silver Dusk Iridescent Powder/Loose Shell Cream Colour Base Constructivist Paint Pot

PETER SOM

RICK OWENS

Bamboo Cream Colour Base Scarlet Ibis Lipstick Burgundy Lip Pencil Mouth Off Lip Pencil Lady Danger Lipstick Flamingo Lipstick Hot NSaucy Tendertone Lip Balm

MARNI

MISSONI

AQUILANO.RIMONDI

ATHELITE

ATHELITE

Its athletic yet chicplumped and pumpedwet-effect and maxed with moisture: skin this season is all about a dewy, sporty, spa-fresh feel. Its near to naked but certainly not raw the new complexion is about perfection thats elite in its amplification of health and hydration: a focus on skincare and plenty of pre and post production on base is essential. This is a beautiful, glowing, no-makeup look with a more sporty and real feel to it than weve seen in the past: theres definitely nothing relevant about a fullcoverage base this season, confirms Diane Kendal, doyenne of an apparently effortless nude look. Take a heavy foundation and add all these wet highlights and it goes into alien territory, agrees Sam Bryant. You want base to look perfect, but still very sheer and youthful. How to achieve it? Its all about what you put underneath or on top of a foundation now, explains Terry Barber. Priming it, spritzing it, buffing it, moisturizing it, massaging it to give it a super hydrated feel. Highlights and gloss are back in a big way, too. Were quasi not powdering at all this seasonor, if we are, there are so many wet highlights added that the effect is still utterly about sporty, plump skin, says Lyne Desnoyers. Cue a rise in highlighting with imperceptible flesh akin Metal X tones and skin-twin shades of Cream Colour Base, which retain a real skin quality superior to the more synthetic effect of Gloss Texture. Think of it as hyper-highlighting, says Terry Barber. While a sportive skin is the canvas, a streamlined detail matters too: add an energetic strength and sophistication to the look with a full (but not heavy or masculine) straighter, squarer brow thats deepened without being drawn-in. Or think linear on the eye, adding structure and dimension to the face with a gesture of liner. Stripped back to its main message, this is a trend for simply great, super desirable skin. Prep + Prime yourself!

PRODUCT
Prep + Prime Skin Compact Chromographic Pencil in NC15 - NW25 Shine Mixing Medium Mineralize Charged Gel Emulsion Care Blends Essential Oils Studio Sculpt SPF15 Foundation Mineralize Skinfinish/Natural Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow Palladium Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow Boldly Bare Lip Pencil Fling Eye Brows Mink Eye Brows Beguile Brow Set Clear Brow Set Mid-tone Sepia Cream Colour Base MAC PRO Bone Beige Sculpting Powder Luna Cream Colour Base Pearl Cream Colour Base MAC PRO Gloss Texture Story Boot Black Liquid Liner Blacktrack Fluid Line Smolder Eye Kohl Fix+ Spray Lip Conditioner SPF 15 Clear Lipglass Dim Lip Erase Hush, Hush Tendertone Lip Balm SPF 12
DOO.RI PROENZA SCHOULER SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ALEXANDER WANG CHLO DAMIR DOMA KANYE WEST PETER PILOTTO GARETH PUGH ALTUZARRA

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

DAVID KOMA

MARIOS SCHWAB

OHNE TITEL

OREINSPIRED

OREINSPIRED
Every summer begs the inevitable beauty question: tan-chic, or not? Or, more precisely: what treatment of warmth feels appropriate for the warm season now? For SS2012, its certainly not about a desert tan, even though the looks reference a worldly, well-travelled woman. In fact, its less about warming up the complexion itself and more about using tan-relevant and tan-related shades to accentuate the lips, cheeks and eyes. Palette-wise, think metallic, creamy copper, rust, terracotta and peach and sideline anything thats traditionally flat, matte and brown-based. An element of reflection and heat is the key update to make on tan tones for SS2012. Tan shades with a metallic edge have a preciousness and sophistication, confirms Lyne Desnoyers. Their inherent light-reflective nature ensures they never draw lines on the face in the same way as flat colour, making them appear immediately chic and flattering. The focus is on the features, yet the skin is still the ultimate canvas for these looks. Go easy on base and build in an athletic bone structure with metallic highlights that create what Terry Barber is calling Olympian cheekbones. Now cheekbones are very beautiful and not so masculine as weve seen in the past. Were using a lot of Metal-X in Fusion Gold or Cream Colour Base in Shell on top of them an extreme highlight takes away the need to contour, he explains. Add something of a burnished eye or an earth or sand toned lip and youre good to go: wisely warm and not a hint of WAG

CUSHNIE ET OCHS

CAROLINA HERRERA

HAIDER ACKERMANN

JUST CAVALLI

MAXMARA

PRODUCT
Rusty Metal-X Cream Shadow Reflects Gold Constructivist Paint Pot Teddy Eye Kohl Modern Mandarin Blush Groundwork Paint Pot Coconutty Lipstick Cup of Joe Cream Eye Shadow Coppering Eye Shadow

Venetian Tarnish Metal-X Cream Shadow

SUNO THE BLONDS DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Shadow

MAC PRO Bronze Cream Colour Base Vintage Coin Metal-X Cream Shadow

BASSO & BROOKE

ROLAND MOURET

SASS & BIDE

MAC PRO Dusk Cream Colour Base Cream Colour Base in Improper Copper MAC PRO Caramel and Terracotta Studio Finish Skin Corrector Coquette Eye Shadow Freckletone Lipstick Fresh Brew Lipstick

DONNA KARAN NEW YORK

EMILIO PUCCI

NEON

NEON

Graffiti inspired. Dynamic. Stripped back. Ultimately urbanthis season goes faster with punchy, sportive colours setting the stopwatch on fashion and beauty alike Gorgeous, not grittily graffiti-esque, its about wearing neoprene colour against plump, workout-fresh skin and an aerodynamic brow in an effortlessly chic, considered way. A move on from the aggressively hard-hitting, stamped-on brights of last summer, the new sophisticated athleticism of this seasons fuelled-up shades is about giving the face a beautiful detail rather than a fierce shock of colour. While they tap into the trend for energetically engineered, high-tech (and high colour, high print, high shine) fabric that is so omnipresent this season, the new bright beauty statements of SS2012 have a subtlety to their statements: yes, these scuba shades are striking, but theyre never stamped on or harsh. Think touchable and sensualintelligent and singularpure colour but not Pop Artdesirable not Discoand dont work too hard at it. If it looks like youve simply swiped on a strong lip on your way back from the gym, youve pretty much nailed it

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL

MAC PRO Red Lipmix

PRODUCT

MAC PRO Orange Lipmix MAC PRO Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil MAC PRO Acid Orange Pigment MAC PRO Electric Coral Pigment MAC PRO Chartreuse Pigment MAC PRO Process Magenta Paint Stick MAC PRO Genuine Orange Paint Stick Marine Ultra Chromagraphic Pencil Rich Purple Chromagraphic Pencil
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

Florida Cremeblend Blush Optimistic Orange Cremeblend Blush Pink Pigeon Lipstick Flamingo Lipstick

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

MANISH ARORA

MEADHAMKIRCHHOFF

MARY KATRANTZOU

JASON WU

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

PRABAL GURUNG

KATIE GALLAGHER