Fabric Weight For Knit

International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01
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CUSTOMIZATION OF STARFISH TECHNOLOGY IN THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON-KNIT FABRICS: A PRACTICAL APPROACH
By
A.K.M. Mobarok Hossain1 and Dr.A.B.M. Zohrul Kabir2
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Technology, Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh 2 Professor,Islamic University of Technology,Gazipur,Bangladesh
117801-6464 IJET-IJENS February 2011 IJENS
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ABSTRACT
Demands for Cotton-knitted garments have been increasing steadily since 70s as consumers worldwide recognized their comfort and adaptability for all types of regular, leisure and sportswear. While processing order for the buyer, knit-garment makers generally specify their requirements in terms of grams per square meter (GSM), fabric width and shrinkage (both length and width),based on mostly buyers requirements and processing capability; for a finished knitted fabric of a particular shade. The fabric suppliers (particularly the knitters), on their part, have to choose knitting variables like machine gauge (defined by no. of loop-forming needles per unit circumference of the machine), yarn count (a measure of yarn fineness) & stitch length (length of yarn in a loop).The choice of these knitting variables is important in order to meet the quality specification of the buyers. Sometimes the combination of the requirements as demanded on the finished knitted fabric, is quite impossible to achieve. For this reason it is very common for knitted-fabric manufacturers to carry out a fairly large numbers of sample trials when they are required to develop a new product. These trials can consume considerable amount of time and raw materials, and cause considerable disruption to production schedules, before a satisfactory solution is found. Research works have been carried out worldwide for developing a practical system for reliably predicting the shrinkage and dimensional properties of finished Cottonknitted fabrics. The most recognized effort may be that of IIC (Recent CTI) termed as STARFISH. It is a computer program, and a body of know-how which can demonstrate how to engineer cotton circular knits so that the quality and the performance can be right first and on time. To use STARFISH with the simplest option , the user has to give input variables of machine gauge, yarn count and stitch length mainly as well as specifying a target value of GSM and fabric width or shrinkage. In case of target GSM and fabric width, the STARFISH gives shrinkage as outputs and in case of target shrinkage; the software gives GSM and fabric width as outputs. But as STARFISH outputs represent the results developed from many industrial trials of different countries, the user just gets the standard average values of GSM, Width and Shrinkage of a particular fabric from STARFISH. So to customize this software in a particular factory, the results given by STARFISH has to be calibrated according to the factory results. Though the software provides a self-calibration method which is more experimental, a quick calibration procedure will definitely be more users friendly and support the application of this software more practically in a real factory situation. In this work, first, the relationship between STARFISH inputs (yarn count and stitch length) and outputs (GSM/Width) has been established through a set of multiple linear regression models for each specific machine gauge. The models thus developed have a high degree of correlation ship. Consequently, the regression models can be used as a substitute of STARFISH to predict outputs with a high accuracy under similar environment. Secondly STARFISH predicted results have been compared with recorded results of Beximco Knitting Limited (A renowned knitting factory of Bangladesh) using standard statistical measures in order to customize STARFISH as a real factory case. It was observed that the mean absolute percentage error (MAPE) is less than 5% for all machine gauges. The findings thus clearly establish a quite advantageous approach for applying such technology for the selection of decision variables.
KEY WORDS: Knitting, Gauge, Yarn Count, Stitch Length, GSM, Shrinkage
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1. INTRODUCTION
Knitting is a process of fabric manufacturing by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns. Knitted fabrics are used to produce garments that cover every part of the human body, in a wide range of garment types from socks, caps, gloves and underwear to upper and lower body garments varying from T-shirts to formal jackets. The dramatic increase in the popularity of knit fabrics during the last three decades provides a vivid example of the interrelationships between lifestyle, technology and fashion. The high degree of stretch and comfort that knit cloth brings to close-fitting garments, coupled with excellent wrinkle resistance, makes them eminently suitable to the modern consumer s demands. Unlike weaving, knitting cannot commence with any type of yarn. Knitting requires a relatively fine, smooth , strong yarn with good elastic recovery properties. Cotton yarn is proven worldwide as particularly suitable for knit garments like underwear, outerwear, sportswear and socks. Though the development of synthetic fibers brought revolution to the clothing industry, cotton-knitted fabrics have always enjoyed great popularity among all kinds of knitted fabrics. Due to unprecedented competition in the global apparel industry customers are demanding better quality in terms of improved performance (e.g. lower shrinkage and better retention of shape and performance). The International Institute for Cotton in1988 introduced to the industry the results of an extensive research program into the shrinkage and dimensional properties of finished knitted cotton fabrics. The package is marketed as a computer program called STARFISH.
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2. OBJECTIVES
The objectives of this study can be summarized as follow: To study the STARFISH Technology and its relevance with knit manufacturing. To search for any type of possible relationship between input and output parameters by analyzing STARFISH results. To compare some relevant R&D (Research and Development) records of a standard knit factory with STARFISH outputs with the help of statistical analysis. To propose the calibration for customization of STARFISH for that factory and thus establishing a feasible general way for customization of this technology for all circular weft-knit plants under similar production environment.
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3.THEORITICAL BACKGROUND : 3.1.FLOW CHART OF KNITTED GARMENTS MANUFACTURING

All knitted garments can be classified into four categories according to general Production methods: (1)Fully cut (2)Stitch shaped cut (3)Fully fashioned (4)Integral Among these fully cut garments cover the widest range of different types of garments, including men's, women's and children's underwear ,swimwear, sportswear and leisurewear. The production sequence of such garments is shown below. Yarn receiving Circular knitting of fabric Scouring, bleaching and/or dyeing Pressing, calendaring or decatizing or stentering (finishing} Marker making Laying up (spreading) of fabric Cutting Assembly Examine and mend Finish press
Fig. : Production sequence of knitted garments.
Fabric manufacturing (Knitting) unit Wet processing unit
Garments manufacturing unit
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The fabric for this process is invariably knitted on circular knitted machines. These machines vary in diameter , gauge(the number of needles per inch) and production capacity. After knitting it goes to wet processing unit for coloration and minor adjustments in finished dimensions. Also fabric stability and handles are improved in finishing. Garment pieces are cut from finished piece goods fabric, laid up (spread) on to cutting tables . Marker portrays the way in which pieces of a garment are laid out on the fabric for cutting .The marker is laid out to a particular width of a fabric and within an optimum length , and may represent only one size or a mixture of two or more sizes. All parts of the garments other than the trims are cut from the lay. Each garment pieces has all edges cut, hence the term fully cut. The garments are assembled by seaming machines and trims are added where appropriate. s
3. 2.TRADITIONAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCEDURE PRACTICED BY KNITTING PLANT

After getting fabric specification from garment manufacturing unit, knit-plant goes for sample development. A simple flow-chart is shown below. 1. Garments manufacturing unit Function: Supplies fabric specifications, like; A) Fabric type (Plain Jersey, , Rib etc) B) Fiber type (Cotton, Silk, Wool etc). C) Fabric properties (Shade, Shrinkage, GSM, Width etc).
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2.Knit- Factory management Function: Gives order to research and development center of the plant for sample development. Takes necessary steps for arranging raw materials and executing sample development. 3.Research and development center of the factory
4. Knitting, dyeing and finishing section
Function: Takes sample development program .
Search for similar existing R&D records If found Give program for similar development Submits the sample to the garment manufacturing unit
Developed sample is OK (Required properties have been achieved Developed sample is not OK (Required properties have not been achieved)
If not found
Gives trial sample programs to knitting dyeing and finishing section
Figure: Rolls of different teams in the research and development(R & D) chain of a knit fabric
Note : Sample development programs are totally controlled by factory management for factories which do not have R&D centers
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4. EXPERIMENTAL STEPS:
The work progressed by completing the following steps sequentially. -Searching records of those specific samples from R&D Department of Beximco Knitting Limited (a renowned and standard Knit factory of Bangladesh), processing of which are very much similar to STARFISH guided processing sequence. -Obtaining simulated test results from STARFISH for two output variables (i.e. GSM and Width) keeping the third output (i.e. Shrinkage) same as the factory result. -Finding out the deviations between STARFISH results and factory results by standard statistical measures. - Finding out mathematical relations between input and output variables by analyzing the STARFISH results with the help of MATLAB and WINQSB software so that those can be used anywhere for prediction without the help of a computer. - Forecasting the possible factory outputs with the help of calibrated STARFISH outputs
5. STARFISH COMPUTER PROGRAM

The name STARFISH is contracted from the phrase START as you mean to FINISH .It embodies the principle that, in order to know how to produce a knitted fabric with the desired dimensions and performance, we must first have an accurate knowledge of the finished product. The STARFISH Kit was first made commercially available in 1988 after several years of preliminary testing and development in the industry. The collection of new data and the development of improved analytical
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techniques for the interpretation of the data base is being continued by Cotton Technology International (CTI). A simplified operational procedure of STARFISH software (Version 5.03) is shown below Software Operation : - Units Giving Inputs: Fabric type Yarn type (combed, carded etc.) Knitting machine (specified by gauge, diameter & no. of needles) Yarn count Stitch length Wet process route (Dyeing machine type: Jet, Winch etc.) Nominal depth of shade (White, medium, deep etc.) Targets (Shrinkage/ GSM & Width)
Presetting
Target values specified: (Values of GSM& Width /Shrinkage) Getting outputs: (Values of Shrinkage /GSM& Width) Note: For a particular fabric of a specified shade, major and dominating inputs are yarn count, stitch length and knitting machine. Generally buyer's requirement is more rigid on Shrinkage as it is the most sensitive issue from the consumer's point of view. So shrinkage is generally selected as target.
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6. CUSTOMERS SPECIFICATION AND STARFISH

For a finished knitted fabric, the customer is the person or organization, which decides the final performance of the product. It may be a store group, a garment maker,
a converter or a retail division of a vertical company. The customer usually sets out his requirement in the form of a specification, which calls for combination of properties like* GSM * Width and * Shrinkage Sometimes this combination of properties is quite impossible to achieve in practice. It is a well-known fact that the demands of customers are often based largely upon wishful thinking rather than solid experience of the product that they have in mind. In the case of a new product this is almost inevitably the case and is to be accepted as a fact of life part of the process of product evolution and improvement in response to market opportunities. But problem arises when the demanded weight, width and shrinkage values are mutually incompatible. Even the customer may ask for better shrinkage on an existing quality without allowing any changes in weight and width! If the manufacturer has access to STARFISH and thus has the calibrated result, then the specification can be checked and the customer can be informed of what it is possible to achieve without depending on sample making. Also the customer may be offered various practical alternatives to choose if he wishes.
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7. DATA COLLECTION 7.1 DATA SORTING FROM EXISTING R&D RECORDS OF BEXIMCO KNITTING LIMITED
For customization of STARFISH, the first step is to find out those production or sample records, processing of which are very much similar to STARFISH guided processing sequence. For this purpose the most standard and popular knitted fabric-PLAIN JERSEY was selected and the recent production and sample records of Beximco Knitting Limited were considered. MS Excel Auto filter Option was used for doing this Also Log books were checked manually for accuracy. The other unique characteristics of these records are1) The fabrics were knitted and processed in Beximco Knitting Limited with the yarn of Padma Textiles Limited- a sister concern of Beximco. So a high consistency is expected in measuring production variables and outputs. 2) Samples were knitted in four type of knitting machines and one type of dyeing machine. Knitting machines are of 18G30D (18 Gauge and 30 Diameter}, 20G30D, 24G30D and 28G30D respectively. Dyeing machines are of jet type. 3) Samples were only solid dyed in medium deep shade (between 4-6% dyestuff) and no reprocess or additional chemical treatment was carried out. 4) Samples were subjected to a reference relaxation procedure (similar to that of
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STARFISH recommendation) for property measurements in standard atmospheric conditions. Therefore, the results achieved are comparable with STARFISH generated results.
7.2 CHART OF APPLICABLE PRACTICAL DATA FROM BEXIMCO KNITTING LIMITED

The following tables show the list of all data that were found as standards for the desired purpose .The collected data was arranged knit-machine wise as shown in table (i)to table (iv)for better understanding and implementation. Table (i): Data from knitting machine type: 18G, 30D, 1728 Needles Knitting Machine Type: 18G, 30" Dia., 1728 Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM Width Length Shrinkage (%) Width Shrinkage (%)
1 15/1 3.32 272 56 5.3 4.3
2 16/1 3.31 231 59.5 3.6 4.2
3 17/1 3.26 231 56 4.3 6
4 17/1 3.38 222 58 4 5
5 20/1 3.14 195 54 2 7
6 20/1 3.02 205 53 5 5
7 20/1 3.07 202 54.5 2.7 6.3
8 20/1 2.78 217 51 3.5 6.8
Table (ii): Data from knitting machine type: 20G, 30D, 1944 Needles Knitting Machine Type : 20G, 30" Dia., 1944 Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM Width Length Shrinkage (%) Width Shrinkage (%)
1 20 2.83 217 58 5 5
2 20 2.79 216 56 5 5
3 20 2.94 200 58 5 5
4 20 3.01 190 60 5 5
5 20 2.9 209 57.5 2.4 6.3
6 22 2.8 200 56 5 5
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Table (iii): Data from knitting machine type: 24G, 30D, 2256 Needles Knitting Machine Type: 24G, 30" Dia., 2256Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM Width Length Shrinkage (%) Width Shrinkage (%)
1 20 3.02 207 64 5 2.3
2 20 2.96 202 64 5 5
3 20 3.15 198 69 7 7
4 20 2.91 218 67 2.3 7
5 22 3.1 198 69.5 6 7.7
6 7 8 24 24 26 2.77 3 2.63 174 157 177.5 64.5 70.5 61 1.7 6.8 5 7.5 8.6 5
Table (iv): Data from knitting machine type: 28G, 30D, 2640 Needles Knitting Machine Type: 28G, 30" 1 2 3 4 5 Dia., 2640 Needles Yarn Count 26 30 30 34 40 Stitch Length 2.61 2.77 2.85 2.69 2.45 GSM 180 146 144 120 129 Width 69 68 73.5 72 63 Length Shrinkage (%) 4.9 5 3.2 8.4 9.3 Width Shrinkage (%) 4.2 4 7.2 12.5 7
7.3 STARFISH GENERATED RESULTS.

For making a comparison between original factory output and STARFISH output, similar values of inputs and target to the software were given to get values of outputs. It may be mentioned that as shrinkage is the most sensitive issue from the consumers point of view it has been specified as target in this project work rather than GSM & width. Tables (v) to (viii) show the STARFISH outcomes for the sorted applicable data obtained from the factory as mentioned in section 7.2 .
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Table (v):STARFISH results for same values of factory inputs from 18G Machines Knitting Machine Type: 18G, 30" Dia., 1728 Needles 1 Yarn Count 15/1 Stitch Length 3.32 GSM (Factory) 272 GSM (Starfish) 240 WIDTH (Factory) 56 WIDTH (Starfish) 61 Length Shrinkage (%) Target 5.3 Width Shrinkage (%) Target 4.3
2 3 16/1 17/1 3.31 3.26 231 231 232 216 59.5 56 60 58.8 3.6 4.3 4.2 6
4 5 17/1 20/1 3.38 3.14 222 195 213 196 58 54 60.6 57.1 4 2 5 7
6 7 20/1 20/1 3.02 3.07 205 202 200 199 53 54.5 54.4 55.8 5 2.7 5 6.3
8 20/1 2.78 217 213 51 52.5 3.5 6.8
Table(vi):STARFISH results for same values of factory inputs from 20G Machines Knitting Machine Type: 20G, 30" Dia., 1944 Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM (Factory) GSM (Starfish) WIDTH (Factory) WIDTH (Starfish) Length Shrinkage (%) Target Width Shrinkage (%) Target
1 20 2.83 217 210 58 58.6 5 5
2 20 2.79 216 213 56 58.1 5 5
3 20 2.94 200 204 58 60.1 5 5
4 20 3.01 190 200 60 61.1 5 5
5 20 2.9 209 209 57.5 60.4 2.4 6.3
6 22 2.8 200 195 56 57.1 5 5
Table (vii):STARFISH results for same values of factory inputs from 24G Machine Knitting Machine Type: 24G, 30" Dia., 2256Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM (Factory) GSM (Starfish) WIDTH (Factory) WIDTH (Starfish) Length Shrinkage (%) Target Width Shrinkage (%) Target
1 2 20 20 3.02 2.96 207 202 205 203 64 64 69.1 70.1 5 5 2.3 5
3 20 3.15 198 185 69 74.6 7 7
4 5 20 22 2.91 3.1 218 198 207 173 67 69.5 70.8 72.9 2.3 6 7 7.7
6 24 2.77 174 183 64.5 66.4 1.7 7.5
7 8 24 26 3 2.63 157 177.5 161 177 70.5 61 70.8 61.4 6.8 5 8.6 5
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Table(viii):STARFISH results for same values of factory inputs from 28G Machine
Knitting Machine Type: 28G, 30" Dia., 2640 Needles Yarn Count Stitch Length GSM (Factory) GSM (Starfish) WIDTH (Factory) WIDTH (Starfish) Length Shrinkage (%) Target Width Shrinkage (%) Target
1 26 2.61 180 179 69 70.9 4.9 4.2
2 30 2.77 146 151 68 71.3 5 4
3 30 2.85 144 145 73.5 75.1 3.2 7.2
4 34 2.69 120 121 72 74.7 8.4 12.5
5 40 2.45 129 119 63 63.8 9.3 7
8. DATA ANALYSIS 8.1 ANALYSIS OF STARFISH PREDICTION SYSTEM

STARFISH is commercial costly software and the manual or software itself does not reveal any mathematical technique by which the predictions are generated. It was thought that by considering the major knitting variables as independent variables and software outputs as dependent variables, a multiple linear regression model could be formed. So the three independent variables were taken as knitting machine, yarn count and stitch length and two dependent variables were GSM & width, which were of our interest. Knitting machines located in a particular factory can be divided generally into certain categories. So classifying the data according to knit-machine wise and thus eliminating one independent variable an easily understood model of multiple linear regression model could be formed where independent variables were yarn count and stitch length and dependent variables were GSM & Width taking into mind that
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shrinkage was our target. Both MATLAB and WINQSB software were used for performing multiple linear regressions.
8.2 APPLICATION OF MATLAB

MATLAB is a high performance language for technical computing. In this thesis work MATLAB has been employed to build multiple regression models for each specific target shrinkage of a particular gauge machine. To work with this software, at first, some randomly selected values of yarn count and stitch length that covers the full practical range of these independent variables for a particular gauge were taken as inputs. Then for each pair values of yarn count and stitch length, values of dependent variables i.e. GSM and width from STARFISH software were taken as outputs. The detailed operation sheets have been attached in APPENDIX-A. Summarized results of regression models from MATLAB for different specific target shrinkages have been shown in table (ix)to (xii) which are arranged based on knitting machine type i.e. gauge wise. The first row of a table shows the target shrinkages obtained from a similar type of table of section 7.3 and other rows show the corresponding regression results.
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1. Knitting Machine Type: 18 gauge, 30 inch dia., 1728 needles (18G 30D 1728N)
Input range
Yarn Count (Ne) = 14-22 ; Selected values : 14, 16 ,18, 20, 22, 24 Stitch Length (mm) =2.78-3.38 ; Selected values : 2.78, 2.96, 3.14, 3.32, 3.38 Table (ix): Summarized results from MATLAB regression models for 18G machine
Output
Target GSM Width (Length Regressio Regressi Regressi Regressi Shrinkage n on on on and Width Consta Max Consta coefficient coefficien coefficien coefficien Shrinkage) nt Err. nt for yarn t for stitch t for yarn t for stitch count length count length 5.3%X4.3% -11.12 -58.08 601.47 10.68 -0.629 12.29 29.45 3.6X4.2% -11.32 -59.56 614.1 10.95 -0.628 12.32 29.251 4.3%X6% -11.02 -57.58 596.54 10.81 -0.64 12.565 29.802 4%X5% -11.16 -57.98 603.38 11.04 -0.634 12.403 29.593 2%X7% -11.18 -58.79 606.09 10.88 -0.648 12.715 30.101 5%X5% -11.08 -57.89 599.34 10.71 -0.634 12.403 29.593 2.7%X6.3% -11.16 -61.32 613.15 10.56 -0.643 12.908 29.039 3.5%X6.8% -11.02 -57.58 596.54 10.81 -0.644 12.689 30.057 Note : 1. Approximately suitable count for a particular type of machine (Gauge): (Gauge) 2 Ne = 18 If Gauge = 18, then Ne = (18) 2/18 =18 2. Practically used/useable count range in 18 gauge machine = 14-22 3. Machine setting (VDQ No.) for minimum and maximum stitch length in existing 18 Gauge machines are 140 and 163 respectively. If VDQ = 115, then Stitch Length = [115 X 41.8(Constant)]/1728(No. of needles) = 2.78 If VDQ = 140, then Stitch Length = [140 X 41.8(Constant)]/1728(No. of needles) = 3.38
Max Err. 0.421 0.415 0.446 0.375 0.408 0.375 0.532 0.4
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2. Knitting Machine Type: 20 gauge, 30 inch dia., 1944 needles (20G 30D 1944 N)
Input range
Yarn Count (Ne) = 18-28 ; Selected values: 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28
Stitch Length (mm) =2.47-3.11 ; Selected values: 2.47, 2.63, 2.79, 2.95, 3.11 Table(x): Summarized results from MATLAB regression models for 20G machine
Output
Target GSM Width (Length Regressio Regressi Regressi Regressi Shrinkage n on on on and Width Consta Max Consta Max coefficient coefficien coefficien coefficien Shrinkage) nt Err. nt Err. for yarn t for stitch t for yarn t for stitch count length count length 5% X5% -7.57 -55.73 522.26 9.73 -0.507 13.521 30.398 0.470 2.4%X6.3% -7.7 -56.25 529.20 10.33 -0.517 13.698 30.897 0.5 Note : 1. Approximately suitable count for a particular type of machine (Gauge): (Gauge) 2 Ne = 18 If Gauge = 20, then Ne = (20) 2/18 =22.22 22 2. Practically used/useable count range in 20 gauge machine = 18-28 3. Machine setting (VDQ No.) for minimum and maximum stitch length in existing 20 Gauge machines are 115 and 145 respectively. If VDQ = 115, then Stitch Length = [115 X 41.8(Constant)]/1944(No. of needles) = 2.47 If VDQ = 145, then Stitch Length = [145 X 41.8(Constant)]/1944(No. of needles) = 3.11
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3.
Knitting Machine Type: 24 gauge, 30 inch dia., 2256 needles (24G 30D 2256 N)
Input range
Yarn Count (Ne) = 20-32 ; Selected values : 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 2.59, 2.71, 2.80, 2.91, 3.02 Stitch Length (mm) =2.59-3.02 ; Selected values :
Table (xi)::Summarized results from MATLAB regression models for 24Gmachine

Output
Target GSM Width (Length Regressio Regressi Regressi Regressi Shrinkage n on on on and Width Consta Max Consta Max coefficient coefficien coefficien coefficien Shrinkage) nt Err. nt Err. for yarn t for stitch t for yarn t for stitch count length count length 5% X2.3% -6.15 -50.14 476.83 7.97 -0.521 14.407 35.563 5%X5% -6.00 -49.34 466.01 7.86 -0.536 14.879 36.372 6.8%X8.6% -5.65 -46.49 439.06 7.28 -0.559 15.497 37.762 1.7%X7.5% -6.03 -49.87 469.49 8.32 -0.553 15.215 37.609 7%X7% -5.75 -46.78 445.05 8.04 -0.548 15.218 37.127 6% X7.7% -5.76 -47.57 448.19 7.24 -0.551 15.268 37.540 2.3% X7% -6.03 -49.48 468.38 8.50 -0.548 15.219 37.127 Note : 1. Approximately suitable count for a particular type of machine (Gauge): (Gauge) 2 Ne = 18 If Gauge = 24, then Ne = (24) /18 =32
2
0.457 0.507 0.516 0.498 0.477 0.472 0.477
2. Practically used/useable count range in 24 gauge machine = 20-32 3 Machine setting (VDQ No.) for minimum and maximum stitch length in existing 24 Gauge machines are 140 and 163 respectively. If VDQ = 140, then Stitch Length = [140 X 41.8(Constant)]/2256(No. of needles) = 2.59 If VDQ = 163, then Stitch Length = [163 X 41.8(Constant)]/2256(No. of needles)= 3.02
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4.
Knitting Machine Type: 28 gauge, 30 inch dia., 2640 needles (28G 30D 2640 N)
Input range
Yarn Count (Ne) = 26-40 ; Selected values : 26, 30, 32, 34, 40 Stitch Length (mm) =2.45-2.93 ; Selected values : 2.45, 2.57, 2.69, 2.81, 2.93 Table(xii):: Summarized results from MATLAB regression models for 28Gmachine
Output
Target GSM Width (Length Regressi Regressi Regressi Regressi Shrinkage on on on on and Width Consta Max Consta Max coefficien coefficien coefficien coefficien Shrinkage) nt Err. nt Err. t for yarn t for stitch t for yarn t for stitch count length count length 3.2%X7.2% -3.88 -43.5 387.62 5.81 -0.497 16.6 42.688 8.4%X12.5% -3.48 -38.5 345.74 5.21 -0.524 17.617 45.171 9.3%X7%% -3.66 -40.67 363.73 5.99 -0.496 16.667 42.327 5%X4% -3.96 -44.17 393.95 6.15 -0.480 16.133 41.041 4.9% X4.2% -3.97 -43.83 393.41 6.23 -0.480 16.1 41.240 Note : 1. Approximately suitable count for a particular type of machine (Gauge): (Gauge) 2 Ne = 18 If Gauge = 28, then Ne = (28) /18 = 43.5 43 or 44
2
0.541 0.541 0.531 0.475 0.465
2. Practically used/useable count range in 28 gauge machine = 26-40 3. Machine setting (VDQ No.) for minimum and maximum stitch length in existing 28 Gauge machines are 155 and 185 respectively. If VDQ = 155, then Stitch Length = [155 X 41.8(Constant)]/2640(No. of needles) = 2.45 If VDQ = 185, then Stitch Length = [185 X 41.8(Constant)]/2640(No. of needles) =2.93
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8.3Exploring means of MATLAB result

1.By using the values of regression co-efficient for yarn count and stitch length, and intercept a regression equation can be formed .For example, for a target length shrinkage of 2.7% and width shrinkage of 6.3% if existing 18 Gauge machines are used then regression equations for GSM and Width will be GSM = 613.15-11.16 Y.C(Yarn Count).- 61.32 S.L(Stitch Length) Width=29.039- 0.643 Y.C.+12.908 S.L. 2. Maximum error represents the maximum deviation between the predicted outputs by MATLAB regression equations and STARFISH original outputs. For example, for a target shrinkage of 7%X7% if existing 24 Gauge machines are used then maximum error for GSM will be 8.04 and maximum error for width will be 0.477.It should be noted that MATLAB does not indicate the point where the maximum error occurs. But putting the values from input range into the regression equation it is found that maximum error occurs for the extreme values of outputs. For example consider the regression equations for GSM and Width at 5%X5% shrinkage target in 20 Gauge machines. GSM = 522.26 - 7.57 Y.C. 55.73 S.L. (1)
Width = 30.398 - 0.507 Y.C. +13.521 S.L. (2) When yarn count (Y.C.) is minimum, i.e. 18 and stitch length is minimum, i.e. 2.47 STARFISH gives GSM = 258 (maximum value)
Equation (1) gives GSM = 522.26 - 7.57 X 18 55.73 X 2.47 = 248.35 (maximum value)
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Now error (deviation) = 258-248.35 = 9.65 (Maximum value) [most accurately 9.7286 9.73: see APPENDIX-A] =3.74 % only Again when yarn count (Y.C.) is minimum, i.e. 18 and stitch length (S.L.) is maximum, i.e. 3.11 STARFISH gives Width = 63.8 (maximum value)
Equation (2) gives Width = 30.398 - 0.507 X 18 + 13.521 X 3.11 = 63.32 (maximum value) Now error (deviation) = 63.8-63.32 = 0.48 (Maximum value) [most accurately 0.47050.470: see APPENDIX-A] = 0.75 % only
8.4 Application of WINQSB

WINQSB is an another advanced mathematical software. It gives a detailed Regression summary with analysis of variance. Regression equation can also be found directly from here. A typical example has been shown in table (xiii)
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Table (xiii): An example of WINQSB Generated regression results Knitting Machine Type : 18G 30"D 1728N Target : L.S. W.S.=2.7% 6.3%
Y.C. 14 14 14 14 14 16 16 16 16 16 18 18 18 18 18 20 20 20 20 20 22 22 22 22 22 S.L. 2.78 2.96 3.14 3.32 3.38 2.78 2.96 3.14 3.32 3.38 2.78 2.96 3.14 3.32 3.38 2.78 2.96 3.14 3.32 3.38 2.78 2.96 3.14 3.32 3.38 GSM WIDTH 297 55.6 282 58.2 269 60.7 257 63.1 250 64.2 263 54.4 250 56.9 239 59.2 228 61.5 222 62.6 237 53.3 225 55.6 215 57.9 205 60.1 200 61.1 216 52.2 205 54.5 196 56.6 187 58.7 182 59.7 198 51.2 188 53.4 180 55.5 172 57.5 167 58.5 Regression Summary - GSM Mean Variable Standard Regression Name Deviation Coefficient GSM 221.2 35.42598 Constant 613.1526 Y.C. 18 2.886751 -11.16 S.L. 3.116 0.2278157 -61.31984 Se=4.895592 R-square = 0.9824944 R-adjusted = Standard Error 15.05345 0.3461706 4.386477 0.9809029
Source of Variability Regression Error Total
Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) -GSM Degree of Sum of Mean Freedom Square Square 2 29592.73 14796.37 22 527.2701 23.96682 24 30120
Reg. Eq. (GSM) : 613.1526 - 11.16 Y.C. - 61.31984 S.L.
Variable Name WIDTH Constant Y.C. S.L.
Mean
Standard Regression Standard Deviation Coefficient Error 57.688 3.484408 29.03919 0.7011116 18 2.886751 -0.6429999 1.61E-02 3.116 0.2278157 12.90847 0.2042993
Se =0.2280113 R-square = 0.9960747 R-adjusted = 0.9957179 Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) - Width Degree of Sum of Mean Freedom Square Square 2 290.2426 145.1213 22 1.143761 5.20E-02 24 291.3863
Source of Variability Regression Error Total
Reg. Eq. (Width) :29.03919-0.6429999Y.C.+12.90847 S.L.
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8.5 EXPLORING MEANS OF WINQSB RESULTS

1) Regression equation gives a forecasted output value of GSM or Width for a target shrinkage. 2) The coefficient of variation R-Square value is a goodness of fit measure. R2 is defined as: R2=SSR/SST Where SSR= Regression sum of squares SST= Total sum of squares SSE= Sum of square error. It ranges in value from 0 to 1. In our case, R2 is giving a measure of the amount of reduction in the variability of GSM or Width obtained by using the regressor variables yarn count and stitch length in the model . For example, R2=0.9960747 (from Regression Summary GSM of shown in the table (xiii) meaning approximately 99.61% of the variation in the GSM values can be explained by using the mentioned two explanatory variables. However a large value of R2 does not necessarily imply that the regression model is a good one. Adding a variable to the model will always increase R2 meaning the SSR has increased. In order to keep from over massaging the data, an eye must be kept on the adjusted R2 statistic as the more reliable indication of the true goodness of fit because it compensates for the reduction in the SSE due to the addition of more independent variables. Thus it may report a decreased adjusted R2 value even though R2 has increased, unless the
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improvement in SSR is more than compensated for by the addition of the new independent variables. In fact, if unnecessary terms are added, the value of R2adj will often decrease. For example consider the GSM regression model of the table(xiii). The adjusted R2 for the model (R2adj=0.9957179) is very close to the ordinary R2 (R2=0.9960407)indicating a true goodness of fit. When R2 and R2adj differ dramatically there is a good chance that non-significant terms have been included in the model. 2) Standard Error (Se) represents the amount of scatter in the actual data around the regression line and is very similar in concept to the SSE . Once we have Se value, we can take advantage of a rough thumb rule that is based on the normal distribution and states that we have 68% confidence the actual value of GSM or Width would be within +/-1 Se of our predictable value. Likewise we have 95% confidence that the actual value of GSM or Width would be within +/- 2 Se of our predicted value. As from the example of table (xiii) of section 8.4, the predicted value for Width (when yarn count is18 and stitch length is 2.78) is : 29.03919-0.6429999X 18+12.90847 X 2.78 or 53.35 [by putting input values in reg. equation : (Width) =29.03919-0.6429999Y.C.+12.90847 S.L] Our 68% confidence interval would be [53.35 1(0.23); 53.35+1(0.23)] or [53.12, 53.58] Our 95% confidence interval would be [53.35 2(0.23); 53.35+2(0.23)] or [52.89, 53.81]
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8.6 REMARK ON THE APPLICATION OF MATLAB AND WINQSB

It is now clear that a multiple regression model satisfactorily supports the STARFISH prediction system. If we calculate the R2 and R2adj for each individual trial then it may be found that the values lie within the range 0.97-0.99 both for GSM and Width. Once the outputs from the practical range of inputs for a particular target from the software are obtained, then regression equation can be established so that it can be used confidently for prediction of outputs without the use of computer. This may save time and help taking instant decision while the knitter is outside his normal desk. Also these equations may provide valuable support to other knitters which are still out of the reach of such technology.
9. DETERMINATION OF ERROR RANGE FOR CUSTOMIZATION OF STARFISH 9.1 STARFISH GUIDELINE AND ITS APPLICABILITY
It has been already mentioned earlier that STARFISH model prediction equations have been developed from many industrial trials and represent average values for typical wet processing routes from the actual values for yarn count and stitch length which the operator has chosen to enter. So calibration is required to give predictions which apply directly to own industrial situation. STARFISH prediction model provides
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calibration routines which allow to modify the predictions which STARFISH makes by establishing calibration factor through increasing or decreasing courses and wales per unit found in the reference state. But it is too much experimental and consumes significant resources for monitoring no. of courses and wales found practically in the reference state. So to follow STARFISH guideline a sufficient number of new developments have to be made which will then be subjected to deep examination for reliable estimates of reference courses and Wales. Though it will give the most accurate calibration but factory people generally dont observe or keep recods of such parameters. They are also generally not interested to work with such outputs which are not major concern of most buyers.. So it will be a better approach if STARFISH customization is done by determining error range from available practical outputs with that of STARFISH outputs. Such customization will also be easily understood and welcomed by most knitters.
9.2 COMPARISON OF STARFISH PREDICTION WITH PRACTICAL RESULTS

Tables (xiv)-(xvii) show the deviations between STARFISH predictions and practical outputs for similar values of target shrinkage(obtained from section 7.3 ). Based on such statistical measures calibration can be done according to knit machine (gauge) wise.
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Table (xiv): Determining calibration for STARFISH prediction for knitting machine type: 18 gauge, 30 inch dia., 1728 needles (18G 30D 1728N) GSM
STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 240 272 232 216 213 196 200 199 213 231 231 222 195 205 202 217 AE WIDTH MAE APE MAPE STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 13.3 61 56 0.4 6.9 8.75 4.2 0.5 2.5 1.5 1.88 3.88 60 58.8 60.6 57.1 54.4 55.8 52.5 59.5 56 58 54 53 54.5 51 AE MAE APE MAPE
Obs.No.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
32 1 15 9 1 5 3 4
5 0.5 2.8 2.6 2.27 3.1 1.4 1.3 1.5
8.2 0.83 4.77 4.29 5.43 2.57 2.33 2.86 3.91
AE = Absolute Error MAE = Mean Absolute Error APE = Absolute Percentage Error MAPE = Mean Absolute Percentage Error Discussion of the results: For GSM While achieving target shrinkage by existing 18G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-8.75 or +/-3.88% Ignoring factory results for data no.1 (which is quite unexpected and may be due to some catastrophic situations or improper process monitoring ) we get revised MAE=5.43 and MAPE=2.54. So revised STARFISH calibration is +/-5.43 or +/-2.54% For Width While achieving target shrinkage by existing 18G machines, STARFISH (original) calibration should be considered as +/-2.27 or +/-3.91% Ignoring factory results for data no.1 we get revised MAE=1.88 and MAPE=3.3%. So revised STARFISH calibration is +/-1.88 or +/-3.
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Table (xv): Determining calibration for STARFISH prediction for knitting machine type: 20G gauge, 30 inch dia., 1944 needles (20G 30D 1944N) GSM
STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 210 217 213 204 200 209 195 216 200 190 209 200 AE WIDTH MAE APE MAPE STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 3.33 58.6 58 1.41 1.96 4.83 5 0 2.56 2.38 58.1 60.1 61.1 60.4 57.1 56 58 60 57.5 56 AE MAE APE MAPE
Obs.No.
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 3 4 10 0 5
0.6 2.1 2.1 1.1 1.65 2.9 1.1
1.02 3.61 3.49 1.80 4.8 1.93 2.77
Discussion of the results: For GSM While achieving target shrinkage by existing 20G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-4.83 or +/-2.38% For Width While achieving target shrinkage by existing 28G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-1.65 or +/-2.77%
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Table(xvi): Determining calibration for STARFISH prediction for knitting machine type: 24 gauge, 30 inch dia., 2256 needles (24G 30D 2256N) GSM
STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 205 207 203 185 207 173 183 161 177 202 198 218 198 174 157 177.5 AE WIDTH MAE APE MAPE STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 0.97 69.1 64 0.49 7.03 8.19 5.31 14.45 4.91 2.48 0.28 4.49 70.1 74.6 70.8 72.9 66.4 70.8 61.4 64 69 67 69.5 64.5 70.5 61 AE MAE APE MAPE
Obs.No.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
2 1 13 11 25 9 4 0.5
5.1 6.1 5.6 3.8 3.4 1.9 0.3 0.4 3.32
7.38 8.7 7.51 5.37 4.66 2.86 0.42 0.65 4.69
Discussion of the results: For GSM While achieving target shrinkage by existing 24G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-8.19 or +/-4.49 % Ignoring factory results for data no.5 (which is quite unexpected and may be due to some catastrophic situations or improper process monitoring ) we get revised MAE=5.78 and MAPE=3.07. So revised STARFISH calibration is +/-5.78 or +/- 3.07 % For Width While achieving target shrinkage by existing 24G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-3.32 or +/- 4.69% Ignoring factory results for data no.5 we get revised MAE=3.31 and MAPE=4.69. So revised STARFISH calibration is +/- 3.31 or +/- 4.69%
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Table (xvii): Determining calibration for STARFISH prediction for knitting machine type: 28 gauge, 30 inch dia., 2640 needles (28G 30D 2640N) GSM
STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 179 180 151 145 121 119 146 144 120 129 AE WIDTH MAE APE MAPE STARFISH Practical (Original) (Factory) Prediction 0.59 70.9 69 3.31 3.6 0.69 0.82 8.4 2.76 71.3 75.1 74.7 63.8 68 73.5 72 63 AE MAE APE MAPE
Obs.No.
1 2 3 4 5
1 5 1 1 10
1.9 3.3 1.6 2.7 0.8 2.06
2.68 4.63 2.13 3.61 1.25 2.86
Discussion of the results: For GSM While achieving target shrinkage by existing 28G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-3.6 or +/-2.76% For Width While achieving target shrinkage by existing 28G machines, STARFISH calibration should be considered as +/-2.06 or +/-2.86%
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10. APPLYING CALIBRATION PRACTICALLY: ACHIEVING TARGET SHRINKAGES

Now the question arises-how one should compare the practical outputs with STARFISH as it is impossible to guess before production what shrinkage value will be obtained from the finished product. The answer lies on the mathematical definition of shrinkage. It is well known that GSM, width and shrinkages are dependent on knitting variables. One cannot alter them without changing knitting variables but conditional adjustments could be made with the help of finishing technology. For example, if a finished fabric sample has a length of 200 cm and width of 100 cm showing shrinkage 7% 2% then one can say that fabric sample will show 5%5% shrinkage if length and width are adjusted to (200-200X 0.07)X (100/95) and (100-100X 0.02)X (100/95) i.e. 195.79 cm and 103.16 cm. As consumers and so customers always take shrinkage as the most rigid issue one has to adjust the shrinkage level to customer's standard (e.g. 5%5% for Plain Jersey) before predicting through calibrated STARFISH. In this way one can also avoid storing so many regression equations for GSM and width keeping the most preferred ones.
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11. CONCLUSION OF THE WORK

The results of analysis obtained from this thesis work are: 1. STARFISH prediction system can be explained through a multiple regression model very satisfactorily. The values of R2 and R2adj found through the regression analysis lie above 0.95 both for GSM and Width. This means that the regression models can be used as a substitute of this software very effectively for any type (gauge) of knitting machine. 2. As STARFISH predictions may not coincide with a particular factory result, some standard statistical measures like MAE , MAPE may be adopted to determine the error range as a part of STARFISH customization .During this project thesis MAE and MAPE for each gauge machine of Beximco Knitting Limited were calculated and the findings are summarized below. i) While using 18G machines, MAPE for STARFISH would lie within 2.5% in case of GSM and within 3.3% in case of width ii) While using 20G machines, MAPE for STARFISH would lie within 2.4% in case of GSM and within 2.8% in case of width . iii) While using 24G machines, MAPE for STARFISH would lie within 3.1% in case of GSM and within 4.7% in case of width . iv) While using 28G machines, MAPE for STARFISH would lie within 2.8 % in case of GSM and within 2.9% in case of width.
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12. END WORDS

Although cotton-knit fabrics have been manufactured for decades, prediction of GSM, width and shrinkage is still regarded as the most widespread and difficult problem with the performance of such fabrics. In fact, very few people in the industry know how to calculate the weight, width and shrinkage after dyeing and finishing of a given quality of knitted fabric before it has ever been manufactured. The result is that, all over the world, product development of cotton knits is carried out on a trial and error basis followed by adjustment and re-adjustment during successive batches of bulk production. By customization of STARFISH Technology, the factory management of a knit plant can save a great deal of time and money by answering many questions and eliminating unworkable ideas before financial, physical and human resources are committed. As shown in this work, the production management of Beximco Knitting Limited now can predict satisfactorily about its factory outputs with the help of calibrated STARFISH results. Though the calibration was done only for Plain Jersey fabric of medium deep shade but the calibration procedure is similar for all types of cotton-knitted fabric of every shade. Again the regression model of STARFISH software, developed in this work, would be a fantastic tool for a knit-manufacturer as he can consult it confidently outside of the computer desk. Though calibration task involved in this work was based on limited data, the factory management can utilize the software to find what GSM and width will be derived from a typical knitting machine for a particular dyed fabric. The predictions would be more accurate if the management generates more
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STARFISH recommended data for upgrading calibrations. As the last words it must be remembered that STARFISH does not remove the need for production of a sample prior to full-scale manufacturing. So it is necessary to make a trial piece or two and have them processed. One needs to make sure that they conform to what is expected by taking measurements. Then he should get the customer to approve the samples, examining both performance and aesthetics. Also during full-scale production, samples from the bulk should be tested. The customer is demanding for a particular output and the manufacturer can not go without submitting practically what the customer wants.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS : The present work was supported by Beximco Knitting Limited.The authors would like to thank the employees of Beximco Knitting Limited for their co-operative hands.
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References:
[1]STARFISH Manual and the software (version 5.03) -Cotton Technology International (CTI); U.K., 1992 [2]The STARFISH Approach to High Quality Cotton Knitgoods (User-manual Version 88:1) -International Institute for Cotton (IIC); U.K., 1988 [3]The Production of High Quality Cotton Knitgoods -UNIDO Seminar Report; U.K., 1984 [4] Brackenbury,T.: Knitted Clothing Technology -1st Edition,Blackwell Science Limited;U.K.,1992 [5]Spencer,D.J.: Knitting Technology -3rd Edition, Woodhead Publishing Limited; U.K., 2001 [6]Eppen,G.D,Gould,F.J, Schmidt,C.P.,Moore,J.F.,Weatherford:Introductory Management Science -5th Edition,Decisioneering Inc.;U.S.,1998 [7]Montgomery, Douglas C: Design and Analysis of Experiments -5th Edition, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., U.S., 2001 . [8]Mackridakis,S, Wheel Wright,S.C.,Mcgee,V.E.:Forecasting :Methods and Application -2nd Edition, John Wiley and Sons, Inc.,U.S.
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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

CUSTOMIZATION OF STARFISH TECHNOLOGY IN THE PRODUCTION OF COTTON-KNIT FABRICS: A PRACTICAL APPROACH

A.K.M. Mobarok Hossain1 and Dr.A.B.M. Zohrul Kabir2

117801-6464 IJET-IJENS February 2011 IJENS

International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

117801-6464 IJET-IJENS February 2011 IJENS

International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

117801-6464 IJET-IJENS February 2011 IJENS

International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

117801-6464 IJET-IJENS February 2011 IJENS

International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

3.THEORITICAL BACKGROUND : 3.1.FLOW CHART OF KNITTED GARMENTS MANUFACTURING

Fabric manufacturing (Knitting) unit Wet processing unit

Garments manufacturing unit

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

3. 2.TRADITIONAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCEDURE PRACTICED BY KNITTING PLANT

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

4. Knitting, dyeing and finishing section

Function: Takes sample development program .

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

5. STARFISH COMPUTER PROGRAM

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

6. CUSTOMERS SPECIFICATION AND STARFISH

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

7.2 CHART OF APPLICABLE PRACTICAL DATA FROM BEXIMCO KNITTING LIMITED

1 15/1 3.32 272 56 5.3 4.3

2 16/1 3.31 231 59.5 3.6 4.2

3 17/1 3.26 231 56 4.3 6

4 17/1 3.38 222 58 4 5

5 20/1 3.14 195 54 2 7

6 20/1 3.02 205 53 5 5

7 20/1 3.07 202 54.5 2.7 6.3

8 20/1 2.78 217 51 3.5 6.8

5 20 2.9 209 57.5 2.4 6.3

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

1 20 3.02 207 64 5 2.3

4 20 2.91 218 67 2.3 7

5 22 3.1 198 69.5 6 7.7

7.3 STARFISH GENERATED RESULTS.

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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 01

8 20/1 2.78 217 213 51 52.5 3.5 6.8

1 20 2.83 217 210 58 58.6 5 5

2 20 2.79 216 213 56 58.1 5 5

3 20 2.94 200 204 58 60.1 5 5

4 20 3.01 190 200 60 61.1 5 5

5 20 2.9 209 209 57.5 60.4 2.4 6.3

6 22 2.8 200 195 56 57.1 5 5

1 2 20 20 3.02 2.96 207 202 205 203 64 64 69.1 70.1 5 5 2.3 5

3 20 3.15 198 185 69 74.6 7 7

6 24 2.77 174 183 64.5 66.4 1.7 7.5

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