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Dirt bike suspension tuning

( SAG) Dirt bike suspension tuning by Mike Hobbs and Rick Johnson (abridged)

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Here's PART I of Too Tech's Suspension Tuning Tips.Dialing in your bike's suspension: 7 easy steps. The may be different STEP 1: Measure suspension "RACE SAG" (Most important adjustment) : All measurements are made between the rear fender and the rear axle. The first measurement is made

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The second measurement is made standing on the foot pegs with full equipment. The difference betwee and Supercross, 3-7/8" Natural terrain moto-cross, 4" Gran Prix and desert. STEP 2: TUNE RACE SAG (The other "most important adjustment"): Adjust the forks to the standard height in the triple clamps before starting any adjustments. Increasing the preload on your rear spring will decrease the Race sag.

This will raise the rear of your bike putting more weight on the front wheel and reduce the front-end rak you tighten the spring too far it will make the bike twitchy and promote headshake. Register its free and you can access to the website Create an account Login:

Decreasing the preload on the rear spring will increase the Race sag. This will lower the rear of your bike like a "chopper". This will reduce head shake, making the bike go straighter and be more secure in high bike will be harder to turn.

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To fine tune the spring preload (Race Sag), try tightening the rear spring adjusting nut 1/2" turn at a tim into a turn and hold the inside line. Continue this spring tightening until the bike becomes twitchy and u handlebars. Measure and record your Race Sag.

Then try loosening the rear preload 1/2 turn at a time and mentally note how the rear end "Squats" dow reach the point of excessive front-end lift (wheelies) and loss of steering, or you begin to have trouble h much Race Sag. Measure and compare these two extremes, then reach a compromise between them tha

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Tune the front-end ride height to match the rear end! If the Race Sag compromise you determined abov height adjustment in the triple clamps is probably about right. Raising the forks in the triple clamps will reduce high-speed stability. (Similar to increasing the rear preload.)

Lowering the forks in the triple clamps will raise the front end making the bike harder to turn, but will re preload.)

NOTE: Once you have established the best overall ride height front and rear, record these settings as yo track, I always push my forks down about 1/8" to 1/4". For Moto-Cross I pull them back up to improve t track, tighten the rear spring about 1 turn. STEP 3: Break in the new suspension valves and oil. Online Members: Guests: Total: 16 99 115

Leave the settings as received for at least 1/2 hour. Put the bike on a center stand and release the accu sag to insure this critical adjustment is still 4 inches. Ride once again concentrating on any gross problem harshness. STEP 4: Adjust compression damping for bottoming.

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Rear shock: Increasing your compression damping (the screw on the shock reservoir), will slow down th

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you compression adjuster "in" (clockwise) to reduce bottoming. If you never bottom, try turning your ad damping and use more travel. Slight occasional bottoming is OK, but don't allow the bike to crash down when bottoming. Front Forks: of the forks) to slow the compression stroke and decrease front end bottoming. Turn your compression bottom, try turning the adjuster "out" to soften the compression damping and use more travel.

NOTE: Softer, screw "out", settings provide a plush mushy feel which works well for cross country racer

Stiffer, clicker "in", settings hold the suspension up and out of holes and provide more lift on jump takedirectly into the dirt instead of getting lost in a mush suspension. STEP 5: Adjust compression damping front & rear. NOTE: Bring a small screwdriver with you and make adjustments at your test track.

It is important to make all damping decisions with the suspension hot and to immediately test the chang Making damping decisions in the garage can lead to nasty surprises. Letting your friends adjust your suspension is also a no - no.

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If "bottoming" is noted at either end, the compression damping should be adjusted "in" (clockwise) to re adjuster is the slotted screw at the bottom of the fork. The rear compression adjuster is the screw in the STEP 6: Adjust rebound damping front/rear. (Critical adjustment, change slowly)

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If either front or rear tends to kick up, (rebound), more than the other after landing from a large jump, the rebound damper screw "in" or "clockwise" causes more damping, which causes the suspension to re bounces up after landing from a jump, turn the slotted screw at the top of the forks "in" 1 click at a time or kicks up side to side down high-speed straights, turn the slotted screw at the bottom of the shock "in

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But remember, too slow a rebound setting causes "packing" because the suspension does not have time bump.

Rule Of Thumb: Run your rebound at both ends "faster" rather than "slower". When the bike in on the v just about right. STEP 7: Balance front end and rear end static rideheight.

If the rear end squats under acceleration along with too much front-end lift and/or the bike doesn't wan 3/4 inches. If the front end rides low, turns too sharp, and/or tends to Head Shake, try a combination o rear sag to 4 - 1/4 inches.

Here's PART II of Too Tech's Suspension Tuning Tips. More 4 easy steps.

Let's pick up where we left in PART I: if "bottoming" is noted at either end, the compression damping sh stroke. Generally, the front fork compression adjuster is the slotted screw at the bottom of the fork. The reservoir. Remember this! Making damping decisions in the garage can lead to nasty surprises. Letting your friends adjust your suspension is also a no - no. Don't forget this!

From PART I, the bike spring rates were dialed in and the rebound and compression damping was adjus Let's go further and fine tune the bike's suspension rebound and compression settings. STEP 1: Adjust rebound damping front/rear. (Critical adjustment, change slowly)

If either front or rear tends to kick up, (rebound), more than the other after landing from a large jump, the rebound damper screw "in" or "clockwise" causes more damping. This causes the suspension to retu bounces up after landing from a jump, turn the slotted screw at the top of the forks "in" 1 click at a time or kicks up side to side while riding down high-speed straights, turn the slotted screw at the bottom of t

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But remember, too slow a rebound setting causes "packing" because the suspension does not have time bump. Rule Of Thumb: Run your rebound at both ends "faster" rather than "slower". When the bike in o rebound is set just about right. STEP 2:Adjust rebound damping and stability for jumping.

This adjustment is extremely important and must be fine tuned by the rider very carefully. This adjustm return to its original position after hitting a bump. In steps 1 & 2, (from PART I) you determined how mu The rebound damping must now be "tuned" to return the suspension to its original ride height before contacting the next bump.

If the rebound is too fast, the bike will bounce up after landing from a large jump, or kick sideways thro not have enough time to return between bumps. This causes it to "pack down" becoming harsh and bou Experimentation is required to fine tune this adjustment. Stick a small screwdriver in your boot so you c on the highest speed and most aggressive portions of your test track.

Front Forks: Start by speeding up the front rebound by turning the screw at the top of your forks "out" ( turning the adjuster out until the bike kicks up after landings or bounces up for no reason. Record this s (clockwise) 2 clicks at a time until the front end begins to get stiff or your arms seem to be working har settings define your rebound working range. Personally, I prefer to run my rebound on the fast side. "Fa

Rear Shock: Start by speeding up the rear rebound by turning the screw at the bottom of your shock "o Continue turning the adjuster out until the bike kicks up after landings or kicks side to side. Record this (clockwise) 2 clicks at a time until the rear end begins to pound and get stiff. If may feel like you have a will probably get tired faster. These are signs of packing. Record the setting. These settings define your possible without it kicking up or sideways.

NOTE: "Faster rebound settings will help you clear double jumps and ride aggressively." "Slower reboun energy in deep sand and desert whoops." STEP 3: Balance front end and rear end static ride height.

If the rear end squats under acceleration along with too much front-end lift, and/or the bike doesn't wan 3/4 inches. If the front end rides low, turns too sharp, and/or tends to Head Shake, try a combination o rear sag to 4 - 1/4 inches. STEP 4: Balancing front and rear.

Regardless of personal preference on compression stiffness and rebound speed, both ends must be bala

Compression Balance: The front spring and compression setting must coordinate with the rear spring an through a whoop, but the rear end rides up over it, the bike will go into the "endo" position. To cure this over this bump to match the rear end. First, try a combination of turning the fork compression adjuster springs, and pulling the fork tubes down in the triple clamps. Also, try speeding up the front rebound cli this bump. When you reach the limit on making the front stiffer, you should try

making the rear end softer. Try a combination of turning the shock compression setting "out", and reduc clicker "in" 1 click, to make the rear stay down after the bump. Reverse this logic if the fork is stiffer tha

Rebound Balance: The front and rear rebound settings must coordinate to throw the bike up level on jum above must be made.) If the front end continuously jumps higher than the rear, try a combination of slo rear rebound, clicker "out" 1 click.

GENERAL NOTE: Heavier riders, very aggressive riders, and desert riders will usually prefer heavier spri

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