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APPAREL INTERNSHIP

@
Orient Craft Limited Knits Division Gurgaon

Presented by: Baabul Singh Nitish Kohli

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this internship
We would like to thank

Mr. L. P. Luthra Production Manager Mr. Jahangir Pathan General Manager Mr. Saikat Pramanik (Faculty Mentor) and all our faculty members for guiding us through this internship

CONTENTS

Company Profile

Introduction Financials Infrastructure Organization Chart Process Flow of the company

Dry Cleaning Finishing & Packaging Logistics


PPC IE

Department Study

Merchandising Sampling Fabric and Trims Store Spreading & Cutting CAD Sewing Washing

Quality Assurance Machine Details Floor Plan


Implementation of Kaizen Improvement of Sewing Floor Productivity

Project

Learning Outcome

COMPANY PROFILE

INTRODUCTION
Set up in 1978, Orient Craft Limited has consistently been one of India's top garment manufacture and export organizations The company has three shareholders

Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Chairman and Managing Director), Mr. K.K. Kohli and Mr. Anoop Thatai

PRODUCT MIX
Blouses Skirts Pants Shorts Dresses Jackets Outerwear Mens shirts Kids wear Knitted shirts/t-shirts Ropers

CLIENTS
Armani Exchange Marc Jacob Dillards Ann Taylor Tommy Hilfiger Banana Republic GAP Next Retail Ltd. Old Navy Ralph Lauren Marks & Spencer Macys

FINANCIALS

Turnover USD 105 million for 2002-2003 USD 118 million for 2004-2005 USD 165 million for 2005-2006 (Rs. 742 crores)
Other Financials

Last years profit was $8 million (40 crores), despite more competitive pricing.

Breakdown of Sales Revenue


Est. USD 2010 Material Cost 82.5 99 million % of Sales 50 60 Per Garment $ 5.00 6.00 % Retail Price 0.08 0.12

Labor
Overhead Profit (Target)

19.8 million
19.8 million 16.5 million

24.8 12 15
24.8 12 15 10

$ 1.20 1.50
$ 1.20 1.50 $ 1.00

0.02 0.03
0.02 0.03 0.02

INFRASTRUCTURE
Company has more than 21 production facilities, of which four are in Delhi, six in Gurgaon, and one large plant is located in Noida. The knitwear division is over 380,000 sq. ft. and employs 5000 people. In 2003 Orient established a manufacturing complex of 340,000 sq. ft. at the cost of over $10 million USD, which was at the time the single largest multi-product manufacturing plant in the whole of India.

ORGANIZATION CHART
Cutting Production

Production Manager

Finishing

Packing Production Compliance Quality Assurance Manager

Quality Auditors Personnel

Joint Managing Director & CEO

Administration

Welfare

General Manager

Maintenance

Security

House Keeping Social Compliance Electric

PROCESS FLOW
Interaction with Buyer Placing of Order PreProduction Meeting Prototype Approval Size Set Sample Approval

Spreading

Marker Making

Fabric Washing / Relaxation

Raw Material Inspection

Acquisition of Raw Material

Cutting

Sewing

Embroidery / Printing (if any)

Garment Washing (if required)

Finishing

Shipment

Packing

DEPARTMENT STUDY

MERCHANDISING

The merchandisers are segregated according to the brands They form the relation and negotiation between the company and its buyers and suppliers
Merchandisers are divided according to the different brands Merchandisers follow up the style and the order until they have been received by the buyers

PROCESS FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT


Receives the tech pack Send it to the sampling dept.
Calculation of cost and fabric consumption

Confirming PO order

Getting approval for size set

FPT to conform the standards

Getting the fit sample approved

fabric and trims ordered

Preparing the cutting ticket for cutting dept.

Pilot run for 50 100 pieces

Getting TOP samples approved

Follow up

ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER

The following activities are done by a merchandiser:


Design sampling
Fabric sourcing Accessories sourcing Collecting test report Quality check Report maintenance shipping

SAMPLING
The sampling department is just a small portion of the production floor. It only has sewing machines. The other activities such as cutting and finishing are done in their respective departments. High priority is given to sampling.

DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE

Sampling Manager

Supervisor

Tailors

Embroiders

WORKING PROCEDURE

Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser. Getting PPA from Buyer through Merchandiser.
Checking patterns workability.

Preparation of different samples and getting the buyers approval. Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC. Revising the specification of the buyer.
Minimizing operations and consumption.

Innovation of new methods.

TYPES OF SAMPLES PREPARED

SAMPLES PREPARED

PROTO SAMPLE

FIT SAMPLE

SALES SAMPLE

PP SAMPLE

SIZE SET SAMPLE

FABRIC & TRIMS STORE


All the raw materials are ordered and purchased by the department. Issuing of raw materials to various department is done by the stores department. Buyer either specifies the vendors or the company sources it from vendors like :

Mafat Lal Nahar textiles

WORK FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT


REQUISITION OF MATERIAL

ACQUISITION OF MATERIAL

ISSUING OF MATERIALS TO DIFF ERENT DEPARTMENTS

HIERARCHY OF THE DEPARTMENT


STORE MANAGER

FABRIC STORE INCHARGE

TRIM STORE INCHARGE

FABRIC SUPERVISOR

TRIM SUPERVISOR

HELPER

HELPER

SPREADING & CUTTING


Spreading & Cutting is considered to be the most important part of the garment manufacturing unit. It was located on the second floor of the building. It was divided into 3 sections:

Spreading & Cutting 1 Ground Floor Spreading & Cutting 2 First Floor Bundling & Ticketing

SPREADING & CUTTING


All the labor was hired on contract basis. There were two contractors, each handling one of the Spreading & Cutting sections. The no. plies depended on the GSM of the fabric. They never calculated the no. of plies beforehand, they only measured the height of the lay.

Lay height 2 to 2.5 inches

Tolerance in cutting varied from style to style and also buyer to buyer.

PROCESS FLOW
CPL is followed Fabric is cut in lengths = Lay length + 5% Since it is tubular, the fabric is cut open

The fabric is left overnight for relaxation If it needs to be washed, then sent for washing

The fabric is then spread manually by 6 8 workers

If the fabric has been washed, then it is left for an hour for relaxation after spreading Otherwise, lay is covered with paper and left for 24 hours for relaxation

Finally, cutting is done using straight knife For small parts, usually of that of kids wear, band knife is used.

BUNDLING & TICKETING


The Bundling and Ticketing section had company employees. Ticketing was done using ticketing guns. Bundling takes place manually, every bundle had a tag which contains the entire description of the garment.

CAD DEPARTMENT

This department is divided into 2 sections:

Pattern Making Section:


This section is involved in making patterns for the different garments. The pattern making section is in the head office of the company. Most of the patterns are made manually and then plotted and graded.

Marker Making Section:


This section receives patterns from the pattern making section and then the marker is prepared. The marker efficiency varies from 70% to 85%.

DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE
GRADING MASTERS
CAD MASTER HEAD PATTERN MASTER

MARKER MAKERS HELPER

MANUAL PATTERN MASTER

PLOTTER

SEWING DEPARTMENT

The unit had 2 sewing floors

Ground Floor 6 sewing lines First Floor 7 sewing lines

Each line consisted of 25 to 30 machines, depending on the style. Each line was set according to the line plan of the running plan The average capacity of each line was 800 pieces per day

PROCESS FLOW

CUT PARTS RECEIVED

PREPARATION OF SMALLER PARTS

INLINE INSPECTION

ASSEMBLY OF PARTS

INSPECTION

SEWING DEPARTMENT

All the labor were employed through a contractor on piece rate basis
The production manager only supervised the contractors working

WASHING DEPARTMENT

There were 5 kinds of washing being done:

Fabric Wash Garment Wash Softener Wash Silicon Softener Wash Bio Wash

WASHING

Fabric Wash:

Only cold water washing is done The fabric is then tumble dried. This is usually done using detergent. It is then followed by two cold water washes and tumble drying. Cationic softener is used in this kind of washing. Softener is introduced after normal washing.

Garment Wash:

Softener Wash:

WASHING

Silicon Softener Wash:


If softener wash fails to give the desired feel, silicon softener is used. Silicon softener is used only for colored garments. Biopolis enzyme is used for this kind of washing. It is used to remove pilling from the fabric surface.

Bio-Wash:

DRY CLEANING
The dry cleaning department was a very small part of the company with only 3 machines. The basic purpose for which dry cleaning was being used in the company was for the removal of oil stains. Though sometimes, dry cleaning was also done on buyers requirements.

FINISHING & PACKAGING

It is the last stage of making a garment


Buyer specifications are strictly followed This department is located on both the sewing floors

PROCESS FLOW
BATCH RECEIVED FROM WASHING
TRIMMING IS DONE MIDDLE CHECKING

PRESENTATION CHECKING

IRONING

MEASUREMENT CHECKING

PACKAGING

FINAL AUDIT

FINISHING & PACKAGING

Some of the operations performed at finishing stage are :

Thread cutting Stain Removal Rough Checking Seam Ironing Alterations and Stain Removal Final Ironing Final Checking Tagging and Packing Presentation Checking and Carton Packing

LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
The Logistics Department can also be referred to as the Operations department. This department comprises of two different departments. These are

Production Planning and Control Industrial Engineering

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL


The main functions of the PPC department are: Making a calendar of production by booking the capacity as per order quantity. Keeping a track on the per day production to check if it is meeting the targets or not. They make reports of every day production of each line.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
It is concerned with design, improvement and installation of integrated system of people, material, equipment and energy. They do time and work study for maximum utilization of the resources. Develops the line plan. Identifies the problem areas and corrects them.

QUALITY ASSURANCE

The main objective of the department is to maintain the quality of the product. To check that the Buyer requirements and specifications are followed properly. Check points: Stores Cutting Bundling and Ticketing Sewing Washing Finishing Final Audit

PROCESS FLOW
PPM HAPPENS AND QUALITY DETAILS GIVEN

QA DEPT DEVELOPS SPEC SHEET FOR EACH OPERATION

IDENTIFIES THE CHECK POINTS

QUALITY SUPERVISOR SUPERVISE THEM

QC CHECKS THE QUALITY

TRAINS THE OPERATOR

MANAGERS TAKE THE FINAL AUDIT

BUYERS QC GIVES THE APPROVAL

MACHINERY DETAILS
Total Machine Single Needle Lock Stitch Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) Single Needle Edge Cutter Single Needle Chain Stitch Double Needle Lock Stitch Double Needle Chain Stitch Kansai Smocking Four Thread Over-lock Six Thread Over-lock Over-lock (FOR) Elastic Binding (Flat Lock) Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) Button Hole Button Stitch Fusing Heat Transfer S/Head Heat Transfer D/Head Embroidery/Kali Mundi Needle Detector Thread Trimming Saddle Stitch Zigzag Pico-ting Rib Cutter Snap Button N/S 45 Strapping Machine Fabric Relaxation Machine Straight Knife Cutting Machine Band Knife Machine Washing Machine Hydro Extractor Tumble Dryer Dry-Cleaning Machine Total Quantity 105 156 6 6 5 1 7 5 67 2 1 1 39 28 1 3 1 4 3 51 2 8 1 4 1 6 1 2 1 9 2 7 4 6 3 549

SEWING FLOOR

CUTTING FLOOR

PROJECT

IMPLEMENTATION OF KAIZEN

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the project was to implement kaizen on the sewing floor.

DEFINITION & CONCEPT


KAI = Change ZEN = Good Therefore, KAIZEN = Good Change Or KAIZEN means continuous improvement or "continual improvement" involving EVERYBODY in the organization from the managers down to the workers (or every level of employee)

KAIZEN VS. INNOVATION


The gradual approach- kaizen The great leap approach- innovation Innovation is dramatic, a real attention-getter Kaizen, on the other hand, is often un-dramatic and subtle, and its results are seldom immediately visible Kaizen is a continuous process. Innovation is generally a one-shot phenomenon

GEMBA KAIZEN (COMMONSENSE LOWCOST APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT)


Gemba = Workplace

A process of continuously

Going to the workplace (where problem/abnormality is) Identifying the problem and it's root causes Reducing and eliminating muda (waste), mura (inconsistency) and muri (strain) Solving the problem or improving the situation

FIVE PRINCIPLES OF GEMBA KAIZEN


When a problem/abnormality/opportunity occurs, go to gemba (the workplace) first Check with gembutsu like machines, equipment, tools, jigs, fixtures or rejects etc Take immediate or even temporary countermeasures on the spot Find out the root cause and remove the root cause of the abnormality Implement the solution and standardize to prevent further trouble/recurrence

KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE FORMAT)

It is continuous improvement in all aspects of life


It has total employee involvement (TEI) at its base

Suggestions are given to supervisor/manager and not dropped in a suggestion box (as in conventional suggestion scheme)
Kaizen emphasizes on implementation

KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE FORMAT)

Every employee takes part and gives suggestions


Kaizen suggestions are evaluated quickly Suggestions can be departmental as well as interdepartmental Kaizen improves the dignity of the employees

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP I (PLANNING)

The Kaizen planning phase seeks to Define, Measure and Analyze the process that will be the Kaizen focus. There are three levels of Kaizen planning.

High-level Mid-level Event-level

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP I (PLANNING)

Event planning includes: Kaizen team member selection Kaizen charter approval Location preparation (including equipment, materials, etc.) Data needs identification and preparation

STEP I OUTCOME
Kaizen team formed comprising of 7 members lead by the Production Manager (Mr. L. P. Luthra) himself. Kaizen charter was verbally approved. Focus was decided to be the sewing floor (specifically line 5 & 6 on the first floor) for the first trial. All the data regarding the running style (style # 20426), machinery on lines and workforce was collected.

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP II (IMPLEMENT)

Train members of the Kaizen team on the Lean principles that they will be applying
Review the VSM, and perform additional measurements and analyses, if needed Facilitate an ideation/brainstorming processes to identify improvement options

Implement improvements by breaking apart the process and putting it back together without the waste

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP II (IMPLEMENT)

Prepare an action plan with a list of activities required to complete the Kaizen process
Verify the alignment of the selected improvements with the future state VSM Identify expected measurable improvements Obtain participant feedback Report Kaizen results to Champions and celebrate success

STEP II OUTCOME

Members of the Kaizen team were taught about the basic lean principles
Line supervisors made aware of the lean initiative Brainstorming conducted of probable improvements Suggestions demanded from Kaizen team members as well as the line supervisors

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP III (FOLLOW-UP)

Following-up to ensure that action items are successfully completed


Working with Lean Champions to breakdown obstacles Measuring the actual results of the Kaizen to document and quantify benefits Establishing process control to ensure the ability to consistently obtain improved performance

STEP III OUTCOME

REDUCTION OF TRANSPORTATION WASTE

Finishing Section

** New = New table introduced in the line

Time Saved = 5 minutes per 50 pieces

SAVING BOBBIN REWINDING TIME


Bobbin winding time = 35 seconds (approx.) Bobbin changeover time = 25 seconds (approx.) Total 1 minute

Change = Issue of two bobbins


New bobbin winding & changeover time = 25 seconds (approx.)

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION STEP IV (EVALUATE)

A lean enterprise is a learning organization that recognizes Kaizen as a continuous process of improvement through:

Identifying improvements to the Kaizen implementation process

Encouraging employees to identify further improvement opportunities


Establishing a schedule to re-evaluate the VSM and start a new Kaizen improvement cycle

STEP IV OUTCOME

The workers were identified as the next possible group of people who needed to be educated about continuous improvement, as they can give suggestions like no one else.
Though we were to leave the Kaizen team, the team members were encouraged to keep the process alive; & they intended to. The Kaizen team was scheduled to meet every Monday morning and consider various improvement strategies, & implement them (if any) in the following week.

IMPROVEMENT OF SEWING FLOOR PRODUCTIVITY


{Contractor system The greatest obstacle & the cause of inability to quantify benefits}

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the project was to increase the sewing floor productivity.

Style # 970920 was a ladies top with an order quantity of 5176 pieces.

The style comprised of about 20 operations with the daily target being 850 pieces and estimated average output per day as 800 pieces.
The line was introduced with about 240 pieces on 6th June, 2011.

However, the first output from the line came on 11th June, which is about six days after the introduction of first input in the line.

The line failed to give any output before that. As per the estimated average output per day, the order should have been completed within a maximum of 7 days, which is by 12th June, 2011.
Unfortunately, even on 20th of June, 2011, the total output of the line was only 4025 pieces, before we finally forfeited on the line. The order that should have been completed within a week failed to finish even on the 15th day.

SCENARIO

Style # 85683 had an order quantity of 37550 pieces.


The style comprised of about 24 operations with the daily target being 800 pieces and estimated average output per day as 750 pieces.

Daily Production (Style # 85683) Line 1


Day 1 Day 2 -

Day 3
Day 4 Day 5

Day 6
Day 7 Day 8

298
464 502

Total

1264

AT WORK
The workers, working on line 1 were asked to follow the timings strictly on 16th July 2011. All of them were informed that their presence is mandatory on Monday & Tuesday (18th-19th July). The line had been rearranged on Sunday, which had been previously working according to the contractors demands.

With just three changes, the output of the next day was 706 pieces, totalling the lines output to 1970 pieces.
Changes

Punctuality Presenteeism Line Rearrangement

By 18th July, out of 7598 pieces, approximately 7000 pieces were introduced in the line.
The output was still pending because of the builtin WIP. On 18th evening the line was yet again rearranged; this time in order to reduce the WIP. Multiple machines were appointed at bottlenecks and places where WIP had been stacked up.

On 19th, the workers sat according to new line, against their (& the contractors) will, of course, as it was only meant for a day. The days output sky-rocketed to 862 pieces (target being 800). Our point was well proven. Note: - The line returned back to its normal lacklustrous form the next day.

LEARNING EXPERIENCE

LEARNING OUTCOME

The eight weeks of training in the apparel industry ensured a practical orientation towards the understanding of

the industry, the infrastructure, set up, and functioning of the company

We were introduced to the concept of contractor system & how lethal can it be for a garment exporter This module geared us to undertake future responsibilities

THANK YOU

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