Ar 15 Guide

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Contents:
1. Introduction 2. Getting Started 3. Lower Receiver Assembly 4. Upper Receiver Assembly 5. How To Change A Barrel 6. How To Install A Free Float Fore-End Tube 7. How To Properly Sight In your New AR-15 8. Where To Buy Parts For Your Rifle
1. Lower Receiver Assembly

Building a complete lower receiver from a stripped lower receiver. This section will take you step-by-step through the process of assembling a lower receiver from a stripped receiver. The whole process, from start to finish, should take around 30min to an hour.... depending on your skill level. As to the skills needed for assembling a lower receiverIf you can poke small objects into small holes, then you can build your own receiver. Parts Needed: 1. Stripped Lower Receiver 2. Lower Parts Kit (contains the trigger grip and all other parts to complete the lower)* *Note The LPK contains all the parts needed to build a standard rifle, however all the parts can be substituted for other aftermarket parts. The most commonly substituted parts in the LPK are the grip and the trigger. If you want to assemble your rifle without using a pre packaged LPK, thats fine, just make sure you have all the needed components. (use the labeled picture below as a guide for what you need) Required Tools: Honestly... there are NO special tools necessary. Some will argue its good to have roll pin holder tools, roll pin punches, etc. After namy years of building rifles, I now have all those tools and I still hardly ever use them. The only tools I feel are really necessary are a small brass punch and light hammer. As A way to reduce scratches I would also recommend you have a roll of masking tape and or electrical tape to protect the receivers finish. Everything else can be improvised.
Lower Receiver Assembly Instructions: There is not really a special order you have to go in. Common sense will tell you some things have to be put in first, before others... but for the most part its not really important. The order shown here is the most common order of assembly as well as the most straight forward. Nothing goofy here. Stripped Lower Receiver
Here is the parts list that comes with a lower parts kit....
Here breakdown of the parts included in the Lower Parts Kit. These are all the components you will need to build your Lower Receiver.
Here is a diagram of the trigger group and how to correctly assemble it. The trigger group is easy to assemble incorrectly so use this picture as a guide.
1. Insert the mag-catch (part with threaded post) on the left side of the receiver (side with the serial number and all the writing) and then install the mag-catch spring from the right side.
Then, grab the mag-catch button and push it towards the magcatch. Then, spin the mag-catch (left side) to tighten it. Stop when the mag-catch threaded post is flush or nearly flush with the button:
2. Next is the bolt-catch. Get some masking tape and cover the lower receiver here: This is to keep us from accidentally scratching the lower receiver as we tap in the bolt-catch roll pin into place.
Insert the roll pin, and tap lightly to get it started... but do NOT tap it all the way in yet. Insert the bolt-catch spring and buffer, with the spring in first and the buffer facing out:
Then, install the bolt-catch, holding spring tension on the plunger, while aligning the hole in the bolt-release with the roll pin hole in the lower.... and using a punch, tap the roll pin all the way in. If you want to avoid marring the finish, place more tape over the roll pin area as it gets close to flush to drive it all the way home. The boltrelease only fits in one direction, so you will have no trouble figuring out how it should go.
3. Now well install the front pivot pin. Some people have trouble with this one, as its very easy to accidentally launch the detent across the room. Just be careful, and take your time and you wont have a problem. Insert the spring into the detent hole:
Then insert the detent. It will barely even start in the hole before you really have to push for all the spring pressure. Then, using the front pivot pin, push the detent back while you insert the front pivot pin into it's hole in the receiver. Once the front pivot pin is in far enough the detent will snap out into the groove on the pivot pin and hold it on place
4. Install the trigger guard. This is pretty straightforward. Insert the trigger guard with single hole side in the receiver. Then align the roll pin hole up with the hole in the "ears" of the receiver. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE. You must support the "ears" on the bottom side if you tap the roll pin in place. If you dont support the bottom ear, you could break it off when tapping the pin in place. Also, some roll pins and/or trigger guards are out of spec. If it takes what you think is too much force, or starts to deform your roll pin, STOP. If this happens, see the end of this section for an alternative method of installing roll pins pin by squeezing the pin in place.
5. Drop the trigger and trigger spring assembly into the receiver (refer to the above trigger group diagram for how it should look).
Then push the disconnector on the top of the trigger, with the notch in the disconnector over the coil spring in the top of the trigger. Then using a trigger pin, insert it through the lower receiver... into the trigger, through the disconnector, and back into the other end of the receiver. This takes a lot of wiggling to get it
through... but be patient and you can do it!
6. Next, grab the hammer/hammer spring assembly, and insert it in the lower. The two long legs of the hammer spring should rest on the top of the trigger pin installed in step 5. There is quite a bit of hammer spring tension... but squeeze the hammer into the receiver so that the hammer pin hole lines up with the holes in the lower receiver, and install the hammer pin. You might have to tap lightly to get the pin through the hammer, but just LIGHTLY. Then cock the hammer.
7. Next, install the safety selector into the left side of the receiver. Install the selector detent, & spring into the detent hole:
Install the pistol grip and grip screw, taking care to ensure the selector spring goes into the hole in the grip. Dont Pinch the spring! 8. Rear takedown pin: Install the detent and then the spring... and the takedown pin into the rear of the receiver. The stock will hold tension on this spring/detent, when it is installed, next:
9. Thread the rifle or carbine buffer tube slowly into the receiver... taking care not to damage or lose the takedown pin spring. The buffer tube should be threaded in just up to the buffer hole.... and then insert the buffer stop pin and spring:
Then thread the tube a little more, so that it holds the buffer stop pin in place, but does not touch the center part of the pin and bind its movement:
Then tighten the stock in place... Pictured is a carbine stock. You can use the CAR wrench for the castle nut (shown) or the CAR nut.... and some people like to add a little blue loctite to this nut so it wont back off in the field: NOTE - you may not wish to use Loctite. It is not required. Especially if you think you might be taking it apart again soon. Loctite just helps assure it wont get loose on you while shooting, and some people never have a problem with this. If you do decide to use Locktite, only use a drop or two and it will break loose pretty easily when you need it to.
The CAR wrench for the newer castle nuts is a good tool to have. You can get it here: www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/223-telewrench2.asp
Now, just insert the carbine or rifle buffer and spring. Cock the hammer back to make this easy. The spring goes in first, with the buffer going in next. Push the buffer in past the buffer pin sticking up.
You are all done! Perform a trigger mechanism safety check to see that everything is working, then your lower receiver is ready to go.
DO NOT DRY FIRE A LOWER. Dry firing of the assembled weapon is fine. However, if you allow the hammer to drop on a lower that does not have an upper installed, it will potentially damage the lower receiver. The hammer will strike the bolt catch, which will damage the bolt catch receiver area and pin. If you do it a couple times it will be fine... but continued dropping of the hammer will likely result in damaging the bolt catch, receiver, or both.
Alternative Method of Installing Roll Pins

As an alternative to driving pins in with punches, you can press them in using vise grips or pliers. You will need needle nose pliers, vise grips, and oil or grease to lube the holes.
Use large Vise Grip pliers, with the jaws taped with masking or electrical tape to protect the receiver from scratches. Adjusting the pliers so that they just barely
press the pin in with the handles all the way together gives maximum mechanical advantage:
Get the pin started in, and put in the spring, detent, and position the bolt catch:
Continue pressing in the pin by opening the pliers, turning the knob 1/2 turn at a time, and pressing the pin in little by little:
Now the pin is almost all the way in, it can be tapped in flush with a few light taps on a punch or an ordinary carpenters nail set:
Now let's do the trigger guard: Hook the trigger guard in the front, by the mag well, and swing into position. If you don't have the trigger guard in position when you try to start the pin, it will break off the tab of your expensive lower:
Press in as in previous post, turning the knob of the Vise Grip 1/2 turn at a time:
Now that you have it this far, finish by tapping in flush using punch or nail set:
Common Lower Assembly Questions & Answers:

Question: Do any of the lower receiver parts need to lubed? Answer: CLP is all you *need* for any part on the AR15/M16 rifle.... and at a minimum should wipe down the FCG, safety, and pins, with CLP. That being said, on initial assembly, I like to use a little moly-grease on the sear engagement surfaces on the trigger and hammer, and inside the trigger and hammer pin holes. I place a dab of grease on the new pins, and work them in and out to lube the inside of the new fire control group. I also add a dab of grease to the safety selector, and takedown/pivot pins. Question: Do you ever find the trigger and hammer pin move, or are they held in place fairly well? Ive seen some locking pins, are they necessary? Answer: If the fire control group is installed correctly.... there will be no movement of the pins. There is a "j" hook installed in the hammer that firmly holds the hammer pin in place so it cannot move. Then, when the hammer is installed, one of the legs of the spring rest in the groove on the trigger pin, so that one cannot move. I dont see the real use of "anti-walk" pins unless you are running some sort of custom trigger that does not have these designs in place. Or, if you do not want the pins to rotate in the receiver, you can install oversized pins like in the RRA triggers, or a KNS pin set which locks them from moving sideway or rotating. Question: Any grease necessary on the buffer spring?
Answer: NO!!! A light wipe with CLP is all you need. NO GREASE on the buffer tube! That SPROING noise is NORMAL, and is a good thing. When you hear the noise change, that lets you know you need a fresh mag. Question: My bolt catch is sticky. My bolt wont lock back or it is VERY hard to release. Is this normal? Answer: NO!!! This is a common issue with new parts. The hole in the bolt catch should be large enough to easily allow the bolt catch roll pin to pass through. If it does not, then the bolt catch hole is out of spec. You can contact the vendor and have it replaced, or you can ream it out larger with a tiny drill or grinding bit in a Dremel, or very small round needle file. This is a cast hardened part, and does not drill easily.
4. Upper Receiver Assembly Instructions

Building a stripped upper receiver into a fully assembled upper receiver. The upper receiver is the next part of the rifle we will assemble. It just like the lower receiver should take around 3omin to build. While this guide will walk you through assembling a upper receiver from scratch. Many builders will skip this step and buy completed upper receivers in their chosen configuration. Often times the price difference in doing this is minimal. There are a number of reputable companies who are now offering complete upper receiver assemblies including the barrel for prices that can sometimes make building it yourself not worthwhile, except for the enjoyment factor (that cant be replaced). Required Tools: All you will need to assemble your upper is a brash punch, hammer and a gunsmiths bench block. You can get by without the block, it just makes it easier. Required Parts: 1. Stripped Upper Receiver 2. Upper Receiver Parts Kit 3. Bolt and Bolt assembly
Upper Receiver and Parts (without barrel assembly)
1. Install Forward Assist Assembly on Upper Receiver. Slide the forward assist spring onto the forward assist.
Use your hammer to start the forward assist roll pin into the hole on the bottom of the upper receiver. Only tap it in enough so that it can stand on its own.
Insert the Forward Assist Assembly, make sure the pawl is oriented toward the middle of the receiver (see picture - if you take off the spring, you can see a flat side on the Forward Assist - this is where the pin rides).
While compressing the Forward Assist Assembly, drive the pin through until it is flush with the receiver. Once the pin is firmly started, you should not have to hold the forward assist in place and you can use a large brass punch to drive the pin in until it is barely sticking up. If you find this too awkward, you can use a small punch as a slave pin to keep the Forward Assist Assembly compressed so you can use both hands. You may have to take a small punch and drive the pin a bit further until it is flush or even slightly recessed (just look at both sides to try and center the pin in the Upper Receiver).
Test the Forward Assist to make sure it moves freely in and out when compressed. 2. Install Ejection Port Cover Assembly on Upper Receiver. This assembly consists of the Ejection Port Cover, Ejection Port Cover Pin, Ejection Port Cover Pin Snap Ring and Ejection Port Cover Spring.
Gently hammer Ejection Port Cover Pin Snap Ring the Ejection Port Cover Pin. Be sure to make a direct, downward strike on the snap ring. If you hit it off center, the Ejection Port Cover Pin Snap Ring may fly across the room.
Lay the Upper Receiver on its side so the Ejection Port is facing up and the Barrel Threads are pointing to the right as you stand over
the Upper Receiver. Barely start the Ejection Cover Pin so it stays in place on its own, making sure the end without the snap ring is started first.
Place the Ejection Port Cover on the Upper Receiver in the open position, making sure the holes in Ejection Port Cover are lined up with the holes on the Upper Receiver. Slide the Ejection Port Cover Pin through the hole in the Upper Receiver that is closest to the Barrel Threads, stopping just before the pin emerges in the middle opening of the Ejection Port Cover (this is where the Ejection Port Cover Spring goes).
While Holding the Ejection Port Cover Spring in your left hand (by the end with the short part of the spring sticking out), grab the long part of the spring that sticks out and wind it 1/2 revolution away from your body, stopping when the long part of the spring is pointing toward you.
As you hold the spring under tension, place the long end on the right side of the Ejection Port Cover (closest to the Ejection Port Cover Pin that is part way through the assembly), while still holding on with your left hand, and slide the Ejection Port Cover Pin the rest of the way through, until the Ejection Port Cover Pin Snap Ring stops your progress.
Close the Ejection Port Cover, making sure it snaps shut. Reach inside the Upper Receiver and push the Ejection Port Cover with your finger, making sure it snaps open. Ejection Port Assembly is now installed. 3. Assemble Bolt Carrier Assembly. The Bolt Carrier Assembly consists of the Bolt, Bolt Carrier, Bolt Cam Pin, Firing Pin and Firing Pin Retaining Pin.
Push the bolt all the way into the end of the Bolt Carrier; making sure the large hole through the middle of the bolt is aligned with the hole directly under the Bolt Carrier Key (hollow tube that is attached by two screws to the Bolt Carrier). Make sure the bolt is positioned so that the extractor is on the left side of the bolt when looking at the bolt face.
Insert the Bolt Cam Pin through the large hole in the Bolt Carrier (just under the Bolt Carrier Key). The holes in the Bolt Cam Pin will
need to be perpendicular to the Bolt Carrier Key in order for the Bolt Cam Pin to clear the Bolt Carrier Key for insertion. If the Bolt Cam Pin will not go into the bolt, check the bolt orientation, as it may need to be rotated 180 degrees. Once the Bolt Cam Pin is inserted, rotate the Bolt Cam Pin turn so the large holes in the Bolt Cam Pin are lined up with the front and back of the Bolt Carrier and the Firing Pin can slide through.
Slide the Firing Pin through the Bolt Carrier (toward the Bolt) until it stops.
Insert the Firing Pin Retaining Pin through the Bolt Carrier making sure the round end of the pin is nestled all the way into the large recessed side of the Bolt Carrier. Since the Bolt Carrier is hollow, the Firing Pin Retaining Pin needs to go through the hollow part of the inside of the Bolt Carrier and enter the hole on the other side before it emerges on the other side. It can be a little tricky to achieve this alignment and pounding on the pin will not help. Once in proper alignment, this pin should slide in easily. Test the bolt to make sure it moves in and out of the Bolt Carrier freely. Bolt Carrier Assembly is now completed. 4. Assemble Charging Handle Assembly. The Charging Handle Assembly consists of the Charging Handle, Charging Handle Latch Spring, Charging Handle Latch Roll Pin and Charging Handle Latch.
Insert Charging Handle Latch Spring into Charging Handle.
Start the Charging Handle Latch Roll Pin into the top of the Charging Handle so it stands on its own. While compressing the Charging Handle Latch into the Charging Handle, line up the holes and drive the Charging Handle Latch Roll Pin until it is flush.
Charging Handle Assembly is now completed. 5. Install Charging Handle Assembly and Bolt Carrier Assembly into Upper Receiver. To complete the assembly of the Upper Receiver, you can go ahead and install these parts to ensure proper fit. However, you will have to remove these parts to continue with the installation of the Barrel Assembly. Turn the Upper Receiver upside down so that the Picatinny rail is against the work surface. Insert the Charging Handle Assembly by lining up the tabs on the Charging Handle with the grooves inside the Upper Receiver.
Slide the Charging Handle Assembly in only far enough that it will stay stationary on its own. Pull Bolt out of Bolt Carrier as far as it will go so the Bolt Cam Pin will not contact the inside of the Upper Receiver. The Bolt Carrier Assembly will not go into the Upper Receiver if the Bolt is not pulled out.
Insert the Bolt Carrier Assembly (with the bolt face pointing toward the barrel threads) into the Charging Handle Assembly so that the Bolt Carrier Key rides in the trough on the underside of the Charging Handle, stopping when the Bolt Carrier Assembly and the Charging Handle Assembly are parallel and even with each other.
Push the Bolt Carrier Assembly and Charging Handle Assembly into the Upper Receiver until they click firmly into place. The Ejection Port Assembly should pop open.
5. How To Change Your Barrel On Your AR-15

Install a barrel or Swap a old barrel for a new barrel. This web teach you how to properly install a barrel and/or re-barrel your AR-15 upper. This whole process, should take less than an hour. If you can tighten a single nut, then you can change or install a barrel. This section is going to start with how to remove a barrel from an AR-15, and then how to re install another barrel. If you are installing a barrel on a receiver that doesnt already have a barrel on it, just skip all the prior steps and jump right into installing the barrel. Required Tools: You will need some more specialized tools to properly install a barrel on your upper receiver. Here is what you will need to do it right: 1. A upper receiver action block. I went with the Bushmaster model (~$40): www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/om-003.asp
2. A armorers wrench. Based on what I read about all the choices, I chose the DPMS model (~$35): www.dpmsinc.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=TL-MW
3. A small punch to knock out the gas tube roll pin. I used a 1/16 drill bit because I did not have a punch that small. 4. A set of snap ring pliers. I had a set laying around, but you can get these at any hardware store. 5. Molybdenum-Disulfide grease (per the TM) This is for the upper receiver threads. This is found at any auto parts store or hardware store for cheap. If you JUST CANT seem to find it, buy this grease from Bushmaster: http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/lowers/ms-100.asp 6. A vise. Pretty much any size will do, but must be firmly mounted to a bench of some sort. Installation Instructions: 1. First thing is first. Remove the upper from the rifle. Remove the bolt/carrier/charging handle from the upper. 2. Remove the hand-guards from the upper. (This assumes you have typical carbine/rifle guards) You do this by pulling on the delta ring toward the receiver, while using your other hand to slip off the upper and lower guard. Its a little tricky at first, but you will get the hang of it with practice.
3. Next, we need to knock out the roll pin that holds the gas tube into the front sight assembly. The correct size if 5/64". Try finding a 5/64" punch at your local hardware store!. Use a 1/16 punch. I didn't have one that small, so I just used a really small drill bit to
knock it out. Tt can be tapped out from either direction. Here is a close-up of the roll pin to knock out:
4. Once that is knocked out, you can remove the gas tube. Pull the tube from the front sight base into the upper receiver, until the tube can clear the front sight, then pull it forward to remove it. Sometimes they can be stubborn, and you might have to LIGHTLY grab the tube with a pair of pliers and tap the pliers rearward with a light hammer. Dont crush the gas tube. If for any reason you damage it, they are cheap. Replace with a new one. Note the gas port on the tube faces down, and note the hole for the roll pin:
5. Now, we are ready to slap on the action block. It only goes on one way, so you cannot screw it up. Clamp the upper/block into the vise as shown:
6. Take your armorers wrench out, push it onto the barrel nut, and unscrew the nut. There is spring pressure here, so you must push in towards the receiver whille you turn. It uses standard threads. Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey. Once it breaks free, it should unscrew fairly easily. Take off the delta ring assembly as shown:
7. Now, your barrel will just pull straight from the receiver. Remove the barrel.
8. At this point, we need to remove the delta ring, spring, and snap-ring that holds it all together. Grab your snap ring pliers, and slide off the snap ring, spring, and delta ring as shown:
9. Halfway there! Now, we need to clean the surfaces of the new barrel, and the threaded area of the upper receiver, to make sure they are free of grit and particles that might keep them from going together smoothly. I like to use gunscrubber, or brake parts cleaner for this. Then apply a little moly grease to the threads of the upper receiver:
10. If necessary, assemble the delta ring assembly on the new barrel. Now, slide the new barrel into the receiver. There is a locator stub on the barrel that fits in a notch in the upper receiver. If there is any play here, line up your front sight so that it is the straightest with the rear sights. Sometimes, it *may* be necessary to file this notch open in one direction, if your front sight will not line up straight. I dont recommend cutting anything at first; assemble your barrel, and only perform this procedure if your sights require a lot of windage adjustment in one direction to zero it.
11. Thread on the barrel nut. Be careful not to cross-thread it, so just
go easy at first. Some people like to take a short piece of gas tube or 3/16" bar and insert into the receiver, to hold the spring/snap ring from spinning as you tighten the barrel nut. Then use your armorers tool to get the barrel nut snug (not fully tight). Inspect the barrel nut lugs, and continue to tighten the nut until the lugs line up with the gas tube hole in the receiver. Once that is done, you need to make sure that the hole in the spring and the snap ring is aligned so you can insert the gas tube. Insert the gas tube through the barrel nut, delta ring, and into the receiver. Then insert the other end into the front sight block:
12. Now, you can remove the upper from the vise. Tap the roll pin back into the front sight block to hold the gas tube in place. Install the handguards. 13. Sight the upper in and go shooting! Common Barrel Installation Questions & Answers Question:
Can I use a barrel vise instead of an action block? Answer: Yes, but a barrel vise will often allow the barrel to spin while torquing, which will mar the barrel. The barrel vise will also put all the pressure during barreling on the index pin in the upper receiver. This will increase the potential for a canted front sight. It is not as simple or effective as an action block. Spend the $38. Question: What about the torquing three times, to 80ft/lbs like the manual says? Answer: While using a torque wrench is never a bad idea, it is not required. Snug it up, three times, then line up with next gas tube hole. Sometimes this will take a lot of force, sometimes just a little. If you arent sure, or nervous, go to the local auto parts store and borrow a torque wrench for ft. pounds. The point of snugging it up three times, is to mate the aluminum upper receiver threads together with the barrel nut. Question: What about checking the headspace after I assemble? Answer: While checking your headspace is never a bad idea, it isn't required for this operation. The headspace of an AR is set by the bolt's fit into the barrel extension. As long as you are using a good quality bolt and barrel, that was headspaced by the manufacturer, you are good to go. If you are assembling very old/used barrel/bolt, then you might want to consider checking headspace. Changing the barrel has no effect on headspace, because the barrel's seating in the upper receiver makes no difference, it is all in the bolt and barrel extension.
Question: I am confused about the moly-grease for the upper receiver threads. I cant seem to find any grease that just says "moly grease" on it? A4. There is a lot of noise about this in the AR-15 Community. Truth is, you just want a decent grease that will keep the barrel nut from galling, and has a high temperature rating so it wont run out and dissipate over time. It's really not all that important. Any standard wheel bearing grease, available at ANY auto parts store, will do just fine. If you are extremely anal, just buy this grease from Bushmaster: www.bushmaster.com/shopping/lowers/ms-100.asp Question: "I installed my barrel, but my FSB seems canted in one direction, and in order to zero, I had to move my rear sight all the way to one side, and sometimes it still wont zero because I ran out of windage." Answer: This is a very common problem with a very easy fix. It's caused by small differences between the upper receiver notch and barrel pin. And here's how you fix it: Unscrew the barrel nut. With the barrel in the upper receiver, check the sight alignment by eyeballing it. If it's canted to one side, try and twist the barrel in the upper. If it won't move far enough, then take a jeweler's file and very carefully file the side of the upper receiver notch to open it up until the front sight can sit up straight. Before reinstalling the barrel nut, you have to tighten up the receiver notch so the barrel won't move around while you're cranking down on the nut. With the barrel in the receiver, take a small hammer and punch and very lightly peen down the loose side of the notch. Careful, tap lightly because it doesn't take much. What you'll see is a
slight flattening of the threads right next to the barrel pin. That's it!
6. Install your own free-float Fore-End

Many shooters are not satisfied with the standard AR-15 forearm and therefore want to change it to a more functional and definitely better looking free float forearm system. This section will walk you through the process of installing one of the more common Free Float rail systems on the market. There are a wide variety of free float systems on the market and each one has its own unique installation method. However despite their differences, they all follow the same basic methods, so by using this guide in conjunction with your tubes instructions you will have no trouble installing your own free float system.
The tube we will be installing is a YHM brand ultralight carbine float tube which can be had for around $90.
Required Tools: Since this procedure requires removal of the barrel/barrel nut, you will need many of the same tools you used to build your upper receiver. You will need a action block, armorers wrench, 1/16" punch,
snap ring pliers, moly-grease, and a vise. In addition, depending on the free float tube you choose, you might need a special float tube wrench. You will also need a couple of punches. You just need a good sized (1/4") soft brass punch and a steel 1/8" punch. Installation Instructions: 1. Remove the upper from the rifle. Remove the hand guards. Using the instructions listed in the above posts; remove the barrel from the upper receiver. (You dont have to fully remove the barrel.... just the barrel nut/delta ring assembly, and you could leave the gas tube in the FSB) We will be assuming a full disassembly is required for this guide) you MUST remove any type of muzzle device first.... flash hiders, muzzle brake, etc... If these are permanently mounted, then they will have to be removed. Depending on their method of attachment, it may be advisable to have a competent gunsmith remove them and reinstall them. Now we need to remove the FSB (front sight base) from the barrel. The pins in the FSB are typically tapered. This means they can only be removed one way. Look on both sides of the FSB and determine which side of the pins is the SMALLER end. It should be the left side, and we will be knocking the pins out from left to right. This is not always the case, so always inspect your front sight base carefully.
2. Support the barrel so that when we knock the pins out, we wont stress the barrel at all... I used a couple pieces of 2x4. Using a large diameter (~1/4") brass punch, firmly knock the pins loose. Use masking tape all round the FSB is you are worried you might slip and scratch something. I must admit... on most of the barrels I have done, a couple sharp hits with a punch knocked the pins loose.... but I finally had one Bushmaster 20" barrel that the pins absolutely would not come loose on. I ended up having to Dremel the FSB down and then was able to punch them out, but I ruined the FSB. I was replacing with a flip up FSB anyway, so it wasnt a great concern... but keep this in mind, should you come across one that is not very friendly.
It will take the most force just to break the pins loose... once they are loose, we can use the small punch to tap them all the way out:
3. Now, lubricate the FSB and the area on the barrel in front of the FSB with CLP, WD40, gun oil...etc... this it to ensure we will scratch the barrel as little as possible upon removing the FSB. Wiggle the FSB back and forth to loosen it... you may need to put the barrel back in the upper receiver to hold it for this step. Then, pull the FSB from the barrel, going slow and taking care. If you go slowly, you shouldnt place any marks on the barrel from this step. Remove the barrel nut and delta ring as well:
4. Disassemble the YHM free float... into the float tube, aluminum barrel nut, and float tube lock nut.
5. Insert the barrel into the upper receiver. Apply a little moly grease to the threads of the upper receiver.
6. Install the barrel nut, and get it snug (this should be tightened just like any other barrel nut, torque it to spec).... then tighten until you
align with the next possible gas tube hole. Slip the gas tube in from the rear to ensure you are aligned:
7. Install the float tube lock nut. Thread it all the way to the rear, flush with the back edge of the barrel nut. I like to use a little blue Locktite on this, to ensure it wont back off in the field. A little Loctite makes all the difference!
8. Spin on the float tube.... right up to the lock nut. Ensure the rail is aligned with the rail on the upper receiver. I used a A3 carry handle, half on the receiver, and half on the float rail, to achieve this. Then tighten the locking nut. You can use the YHM tool for this, or a hammer/punch/flat blade screwdriver.
9. Now install the FSB back on the barrel, and the gas tube. Remember to put the roll pin back in the gas tube if you removed it:
10. Using the large brass punch, tap the taper pins back in, from the RIGHT, to the LEFT, this time. driving them home.
11. DONE! Wasnt that simple? Finished product... time to go shooting!
Common Free Float Tube Questions & Answers

Question: How do you replace the front sight post and make it plumb, so it's not to far left or right? Answer: If you are removing and reinstalling the same FSB on the same barrel, you cannot screw it up. The taper holes are drilled in the barrel, and in the FSB.... and when taking it off/reinstalling it on the same barrel, it will line up perfectly where it was before. There is no room for "play". The taper pins as you drive them in will line it back up exactly where it was drilled. Question: Can a second person hold the upper during tightening to save the cost of a bench vice, bench, and $40 action block? Answer: NO. The torque involved is too great for that.... you could rig up some type of fixture, but if the upper is not properly supported, risk of damage is high. Question: What about headspace after removing/installing the barrel? Answer: If all you are doing is installing the FF tube on an assembled rifle, using the same bolt/barrel as before, then there is absolutely no reason to concern yourself with headspace, because it is not affected by changing such things.
AR-15 Rifle Diagrams

Upper Receiver & Barrel Diagram
(1) Handguard Assembly (2) Gas Tube Pin (3) Gas Tube (4) Flash Suppressor/Compensator (5) Peel Washer (6) Handguard Slip Ring Retaining Ring (7) Handguard Slip Ring Spring (8) Handguard Slip Ring (9) Upper Receiver Assembly (10) Barrel Assembly
Upper Receiver & Rear Sight Assembly
(1) Rear Sight Assembly (2) Rear Sight Windage Knob Retaining Pin (3) Rear Sight Windage Knob (4) Rear Sight Windage Knob Helical Spring (5) Rear Sight Windage Knob Ball Bearing (6) Rear Sight Windage Screw (7) Rear Sight Aperture (8) Rear Sight Flat Spring (9) Rear Sight Base (10) Rear Sight Retaining Pin 59 Copyright 2007 BuildYourOwnAR15.com
(11) Rear Sight Elevation Helical Spring (12) Rear Sight Elevation Index Ball Bearing (13) Rear Sight Elevation Index Helical Spring (14) Rear Sight Elevation Index Screw (15) Rear Sight Elevation Index (16) Rear Sight Elevation Knob (17) Ejection Port Cover Retaining Ring (18) Ejection Port Cover Pin (19) Ejection Port Cover Helical Spring (20) Ejection Port Cover (21) Forward Assist Retaining Pin (22) Forward Assist Assembly (23) Forward Assist Helical Compression Spring (24) Upper Receiver
Forward Assist Assembly
1) Forward Assist Pawl Retaining Pin (2) Forward Assist Pawl (3) Forward Assist Pawl Detent (4) Forward Assist Pawl Helical Compression Spring (5) Forward Assist Plunger
Barrel Assembly
(1) Front Sight Post (2) Front Sight Post Detent (3) Front Sight Post Detent Helical Spring (4) Front Sight Pins (5) Sling Swivel Tubular Rivet (6) Sling Swivel
Charging Handle Assembly
(1) Charging Handle Latch Pin (2) Charging Handle Latch (3) Charging Handle Latch Helical Spring 61 Copyright 2007 BuildYourOwnAR15.com
(4) Charging Handle
Lower Receiver and Buttstock Assembly
(1) Grip Machine Screw (2) Grip Lock Washer (3) Grip (4) Safety Detent Helical Spring (5) Safety Detent 62 Copyright 2007 BuildYourOwnAR15.com
(6) Lower Receiver Extension Self Locking Screw (7) Buttstock Assembly (8) Stepped Spacer (9) Takedown Pin Detent Helical Spring (10) Takedown Pin Detent (11) Takedown Pin (12) Pivot Pin (13) Buffer Assembly (14) Recoil Spring (15) Bolt Catch Pin (16) Bolt Catch (17) Bolt Catch Plunger (18) Bolt Catch Helical Compression Spring (19) Magazine Catch (20) Magazine Catch Button (21) Magazine Catch Helical Spring (22) Automatic Sear Pin (23) Sear (24) Selector Lever (25) Hammer And Trigger Spring (26) Hammer Assembly (27) Disconnector (28) Disconnector (29) Trigger Assembly (30) Lower Receiver and Receiver Extension Assembly
Lower Receiver Assembly
(1) Trigger Guard Pin (2) Trigger Guard (3) Lower Receiver Extension (4) Buffer Retainer (5) Buffer Retainer Helical Spring (6) Lower Receiver
Hammer Assembly
(1) Hammer Helical Spring (2) Burst Cam Helical Spring 64 Copyright 2007 BuildYourOwnAR15.com
(3) Burst Cam (4) Hammer and Hammer Pin Retainer Assembly
Trigger Assembly
(1) Trigger Helical Torsion Spring (2) Disconnector Helical Spring (3) Trigger
Complete Rifle
(1) Magazine (2) Small Arms Sling (3) Bolt Carrier Assembly (4) Charging Handle Assembly (5) Upper Receiver and Barrel Assembly (6) Lower Receiver and Buttstock Assembly
6. Properly Sight In Your New AR-15 Rifle

The AR-15 rifle has two adjustable sights- front and rear. Zeroing elevation adjustments are made using the front sight, and windage adjustments with the rear. The rear sight has an elevation knob with range indicators from 300 to 800 meters and two apertures for range. One aperture is marked 0-2 for short range from 0-200 meters and the unmarked aperture for normal range from 300 to 800 meters. This unmarked aperture is used in conjunction with the elevation knob for 300-800 meter targets.
The rear sight also consists of a windage knob on the right side of the sight. Each click of the windage knob will move the strike of the round from 1/8 inch at 25 meters to 4 inches at 800 meters. A windage knob pointer is on the windage knob.
The front sight consists of a rotating sight post with a spring loaded detent. This detent can be depressed using a sight adjustment tool, or using a sharp point such as a cartridge tip. Establish Zero The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AR-15 will be set with a 300 meter battle sight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 9" circle at all ranges up to 300 meters. Establish Mechanical Zero
Align the windage indicator mark on the 0-2 aperture with the center line of the windage scale (the unmarked aperture is up) Rotate the elevation knob down until the range scale 8/3 (300meter) mark is aligned with the mark on the left side of the receiver. Rotate the front sight post up or down as required until the base of the front sight post is flush with the top of the sight post well.
Carefully aim and fire each shot of a 3-shot group at a paper target set up at 25 meters. If your shots are not striking the point-of-aim, then adjust your sights.

To raise the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the direction marked UP (clockwise) To lower the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the direction marked DOWN (counter-clockwise) To move the next shot group left, turn windage knob counterclockwise To move the next shot group right, turn the windage knob clockwise
Continue to fire 3-shot groups and adjust the sights until you have a tight group at the point of aim.
Once this is done, the unmarked aperture is automatically zeroed. Rifle is now combat-zeroed all other ranges on the elevation knob are also zeroed, so to engage target at say 500 meters, turn wheel to 5. Now Get Out There and Shoot that Black Rifle!
8. Where To Buy Parts For Your Rifle

AR-15 Parts and Accessories Retailers Over the last several years there has been a huge amount of growth in the AR-15 industry. New companies are springing out of the woodwork offering every imaginable type of part or accessory for AR15s. It would be utterly ridiculous for me to try and give you a comprehensive list of suppliers with as many as are out there. So instead, I am going to share with you my favorite AR-15 related on and offline retailers. Through these companies listed below you will easily be able to create whatever style AR-15 you want. Stag Arms: http://www.stagarms.com/ Rock River Arms: http://www.rockriverarms.com/ Larue Tactical: http://www.laruetactical.com/ Midwest Industries: http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/ Magpul: http://www.magpul.com/ PK Firearms: http://www.pkfirearms.com Bravo Company: http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/ DPMS: http://www.dpmsinc.com/ Global Tactical: http://global-tactical.com/ Brownells: http://www.brownells.com Comand Arms: http://www.commandarms.com Rainier Arms: http://www.rainierarms.com/ AIM Surplus: http://www.aimsurplus.com/ Delton: http://www.del-ton.com/

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1. Lower Receiver Assembly

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through... but be patient and you can do it!

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Alternative Method of Installing Roll Pins

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Common Lower Assembly Questions & Answers:

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4. Upper Receiver Assembly Instructions

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Upper Receiver and Parts (without barrel assembly)

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Insert Charging Handle Latch Spring into Charging Handle.

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5. How To Change Your Barrel On Your AR-15

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6. Install your own free-float Fore-End

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11. DONE! Wasnt that simple? Finished product... time to go shooting!

Common Free Float Tube Questions & Answers

AR-15 Rifle Diagrams

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Upper Receiver & Rear Sight Assembly

Forward Assist Assembly

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Charging Handle Assembly

(4) Charging Handle

Lower Receiver and Buttstock Assembly