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Optional extras:
Olive oil
Open the scallops as described on pages 1057 (reserve the frills for bait or to
make fish stock). If the corals are plump and bright orange, leave them attached
to the main muscle. Otherwise add them to the frills for stock. Pat the scallops
dry with paper towels and set aside.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over high heat, add a little olive oil,
then throw in the chorizo and, if you like, a sprinkling of fennel seeds and a few
bay leaves. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring all the while, as the chorizo releases
its salty, spicy fat.
Move the chorizo to one side of the pan. Check that the pan is still really hot,
then add the scallops. Leave for about 45 seconds to 1 minute, then carefully
turn them over. After another scant minute, using a sharp shake of the pan
or a light stir with a spatula toss the chorizo and scallops together with all
that lovely, flavorsome fat. (This is the moment to add the optional fava beans
and/or peas.) Cook for just another minute, tossing and shaking regularly.
Add a twist of pepper, a little bit of salt (the chorizo is already pretty salty), and
a few drops of lemon juice, then divide the mixture among warmed plates and
serve right away, with bread and a green salad for which the oil from the pan,
with a few more drops of lemon juice, will make a sublime dressing.
313
S
almon tartare serves 4 as a starter
Youre probably familiar with the classic steak tartare, where finely chopped
beef is combined with a range of piquant flavorings and eaten raw. You can do
a very similar thing with spanking-fresh raw salmon with excellent results.
Raw salmon has a good, firm texture and eats best when cut fairly coarsely, in
contrast to the almost minced texture of steak tartare.
Also works with:
Sea trout
Mackerel
Scad
Juice of 1 lemon
Put the salmon in a large mixing bowl and squeeze over the lemon juice, followed
by the Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco. Season with salt and pepper. Gently
fold in the parsley, capers, gherkin, and onion. Leave the mixture to stand for
10 minutes before serving, so the flavors get a chance to develop. Then mix
again, leave to rest for another 10 minutes, and serve. Eat with buttered toast
(whole-grain or rye is best).
138
fish cookery
18 fresh oysters
Scant 1 2 cup (100ml) heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Set a large saucepan over medium heat and add the butter and olive oil. When
the butter is foaming, stir in all the chopped vegetables and garlic. Cook gently
for 5 to 10 minutes, until softened but not colored. Add the stock and white wine
and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring once
or twice, until all the vegetables are tender.
Meanwhile, place a large pan over high heat and add half a glass of water.
When its boiling, place 6 oysters in the pan. Cover and allow them to steam
for 2 minutes. This will open the shells and allow you to remove the meat: you
will still need to shuck them (see page 104), but it will be a much easier task.
Repeat with the remaining oysters. Each oyster will have a little juice in its
shell make sure you dont spill this.
Finish the broth by stirring in the cream and the juice from the oysters and
seasoning to taste. Divide the warm poached oysters among warmed bowls and
ladle over the hot broth, making sure each person gets a fair share of vegetables
along with the liquor.
268
fish cookery
G
rilled trout with fennel serves 4
If you grow fennel in your garden, this recipe is one to cook in late summer,
when the plants are overgrown and going to seed. Those leggy stalks may be too
fibrous for eating but theyre still full of aromatic oils, which can perfume fish as
it cooks.
Also works with:
Red mullet
Grey mullet
Mackerel
Scad
Black bream
Sea bass
Gurnard
Zander
4 bay leaves
Olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Take four 4-inch (10cm) lengths of the freshest fennel sticks and bash them with
a rolling pin to release their flavor. Put a piece inside each fish, along with a
crushed garlic clove, a bay leaf, and some seasoning. Lightly brush the fish with
oil and season the skin do this generously, as the cooking will burn off a lot of
the seasoning.
Spread the rest of the fennel sticks on the grate over a hot, ready-for-cooking
fire. Lay the fish over the steaming fennel stems. As the fish cook, the fennel
will first steam and then burn, infusing the fish with its flavor. Cook for 6 to
7 minutes on each side, until the skin is crisp and the flesh opaque.
Serve steaming hot, with minted new potatoes and a salad a dish of paperthin slices of fennel bulb, dressed with orange juice and olive oil, will echo and
enhance the fennel notes in the fish.
198
fish cookery
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