2.2.2.

7 Description of Faults in Greige Fabric: Contamination: In fabric any material other than the fiber of fabric is called contamination. Mainly polypropylene, hair, jute etc. are some common contaminations. Cockled yarn: Fluff or any material pressed by machine in warp more end is called cockled yarn. It forms hard surface. Color variation: Due to the variation in the lot used in weaving. At some places color is found different than the actual one. Sometimes, it is due to the variation in the color of raw material used for yarn formation. Oily weft: When weft or pick yarn is oily then it is called oily weft. Black end: When end or warp is black may be due to oil is called black end. Count variation: In this case warp or weft may be thick or thin then the count shown in the construction. In this case cloudy like appearance occurs. Short end: Any warp or end may be missing.

 Double end: In this case, double yarn is found in end or warps rather than the single one.

Miss pick: Any pick or weft may be missing.

 Double pick: Double yarn in pick or weft is missing.

Short miss pick: If pick or weft is missing at any point than it is called short miss pick. Short double pick: In this case two yarns in pick are found for short distance. Starting mark: When loom stops and then restarts it gives a stain (crease) on fabric in weft angle. Wrapping mark: It is just like starting mark but here surface become very hard on weft side. Oil stain: It is the spot of oil in circular shape and mostly yellowish in color.

 Kinks: When new yarn is knocked either on warp or weft side it is pressed and become hard and swollen. Loose ends: Warp or end comes out of fabric and not properly stitched, so it does not look straight and forms in zigzag way. Sizing Stain: It is like oily stain but more opaque than oily stain. Hanging thread: Any thread hanging in the fabric is called hanging thread or Mending Mark: If Slub is taken out or kink is pulled out then a space appears in fabric and called mending fault.

2.2.3.1 Four Point System (European System): Penalty point evaluation: Defects in both the wrap or weft direction will be assigned points using in the following criteria: 1 points defects up to 3`` 2 points defects up to 6`` 3 points defects up to 9`` 4 points defects up to 36``

Penalty points grading: The following fabric penalty point grading standards are to be used during inspection. 1. No more than 4 penalty points may be assigned for any single defect. 2. No more than 4 penalty points may be assigned to one linear meter, regardless of the number of defects with in that one meter. 3. A continuous defect shall be assigned 4 points for each meter in which it occurs. 4. Any roll having a running defect through more than three continuous meters shall be rejected regardless of points count. 5. Any roll with a full width defect over six inches in length shall be rejected. 6. Any roll that contains more than four fall width defects per one hundred linear meters shall be rejected. 7. No roll shall be accepted that contains a full width defect in the first or last three meters. 8. Fabric width will be checked a minimum of three times during the inspection of a roll (beginning middle and end of the roll.). Roll having a measurement of less that the specified required width shall be graded as second quality. A maximum tolerance of +3 % will be allowed for rolls having a measurement greater that the specified required width. 9. A hole or torn is considered to be a major defect and shall be penalized 4 points. 10. Following defects will be penalized penalty points as per rules. 11. Following defects are cut table and will be reflected. Frequent knits, knots, Slub, contamination, spots etc. More than three meters a continuous defect such as dye creases, streak marks, side center side shading, roll to roll shading, narrow or irregular width, abrasion mark, uneven dye and finish, reed mark, double end, broken end, wrong draw etc. No roll shall be accepted as first quality that exhibits a noticeable degree of looseness of tightness or ripples, puckers, folds or creases in the body of the fabric

Major & minor Penalty Points

Penalty Point Defects in Warp Except Holes Torn

1 Up to 3

2 From1to 6

3 From 1to 9

4 From1 to 36

Cutting Faults

Hole and Tear and over Heavy Crack and Float

This is called four point American systems. This system is considered as a best grading system all over the world. It was developed to create an understanding between customer and supplier. Average Point: Average point is calculated by following formula. (Total Points) X (3937) Total Average Points= Per 100 Meter2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width)

(Total Points) X 3600 Total Average Points = Per 100 Yards2 (Total length in Meters) X (Width)

Based on above calculation inspection report is prepared. If fabric contains fault less than 15 or equal to 15 faults /100m2 then it considers as ok or pass. If 18 faults/100m2 are detected in fabric then it is under discussion. If more than 18 points are found/100m2 then it is rejected and tagged as hold or rejected. 2.2.4 Inspection Conditions: All textiles are to be inspected on an inspection frame or perch fitted with a variable speed motor and a clock for measuring rolls lengths. The inspector must stand one foot away from the frame during the inspection. The frame should be tilted so that the fabric passes at an angle between forty-five degrees (45) and sixty degrees (60) off horizontal. The frame is to be lighted with a minimum of two F96 CWF (cool white) fluorescent bulbs parallel to each other and perpendicular to the direction the fabric is moving. The lights should be four feet from the section of fabric being inspected. The lights must be directly above the viewing area so they will be at a sixty degree angle (60).

Textile fabrics will be inspected with a back light when necessary, or as stated in the purchasing agreement. All sheer fabrics will be viewed with a back light. The fabric will be inspected at a speed that is compatible with the fabric quality and not in excess of twenty to twenty five (20-25) yards (meters) per minute.