Sie sind auf Seite 1von 22

Non-Profit Org.

U.S. Postage
Paid
Santa Ana, CA
Permit No. 450
Costume Designers Guild
Local 892I.A.T.S.E.
11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor
Studio City, CA 91604
costumedesignersguild.com
The Official Magazine of the Costume Designers Guild
RESTORED VINTAGE BY SUSANA MERCEDES
Susana Mercedes silhouettes exhibit the art of a designer who pays homage
to tradition and dees tradition in the same moment Inspired by all great
artists, she emphasizes the importance of each individual piece, not bound
by the constraints of seasonal collections.
Susana Mercedes discovers each vintage piece with loving intuition, then
reinterprets and re-imagines, extending its voice to the 21st century
Inquiries: 213-489-9292 www.vintagebysusanamercedes.com
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 3
COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD
11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor
Studio City, CA 91604
phone: 818.752.2400 fax: 818.752.2402
costumedesignersguild.com
GENERAL CDG CORRESPONDENCE
cdgia@costumedesignersguild.com
COVER
The 40 Year Old Virgin, 2005
Costume Designer, Debra McGuire
Editors Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Union Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Presidents Letter
Interim Executive Director
Labor Report
The Costume Department . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Meet the Assistants
History of Dress
In Focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Location: Atlanta
Boldface Names
Whats On/Whats In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Scrapbook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
DEPARTMENTS
FEATURES
Who is Debra McGuire? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Edith Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
A conversation with Susan Claassen
The collar stays in the picture . . . . . . . . . . . 24

24 22 16
vol. 6, issue 4
4 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
hy a feature on Debra McGuire?
It occurs to me that theres always someone. A Costume
Designer whos on everybodys lips and Im not talking
about a smile. Someone whose name conjures up much
discussion and eye rolling and gossip. Where did HE come from?
He came out of nowhere. She MUST have a publicist! What is
her background? Does she have any training? How is he getting
all these Emmy nominations when his period work isnt even accu-
rate? Sound familiar? These are just some of the rumblings of many
of us when discussing (or actually questioning) another designers
success. Ill admit it. Ive been guilty too. Do we really think that if
an A-list, Oscar-winning Costume Designer were not designing those two star-stud-
ded features simultaneously, one of us regular working folk would have had a chance
at that those films? On a similar note, is it possible that the Costume Designer who is
bending reality to heighten a period film is not only doing it on purposebut his or
her director, producers and audience is eating up every last costume?
Shes taking all the jobs was often the complaint about Debra McGuire. True
she works a LOT. True a lot of designers arent working. But if my recent foray into
the land of TV is any indication, its a wonder anyone can cobble together enough of
an income to survive. Most of Debras jobs came from repeat employers. In fact, in
the 25 years shes been designing, shes only had representation for two of those
years. She is currently without an agent.
In the past few years, Ive had reason to contact Debra for one thing or another
and Im always struck by her graciousness, kindness and willingness to help. It made
me realize that maybe were all a little too judgmental about one thing or another,
and its important to remember that theres always more to the story and the person
than the gossip implies.
The collar stays in the picture. (page 24) Ill admit it, I havent seen much in
the theaters this year but Inception just stayed with me. Simple as that. I could have
written about so many other exceptionally designed contemporary films this year but
somehow, the shirts and ties on Leonardo DiCaprio got under my skin. What about
Ellen Mirojnciks amazing shirts for Michael Douglas in Wall Street: Money Never
Sleeps? Exquisite and unique. This year, to me, the shirts stand out. Id like to con-
tinue to feature the little things that mean a lot in this magazine. If there is a detail of
design that has moved you this past year, Id love to hear about it.
Edith Head. If you ask any layperson on the street to name a single Costume
Designer, its no surprise theyll proudly say, Edith Head. Jacqueline Saint Anne
talked with Susan Claassen about her theatrical portrayal of the legendary designer
(see page 22). Watch for A Conversation With Edith Head to return to Los Angeles
in 2011. If you are a Costume Designer or appreciate Costume Design, it shouldnt
be missed.
Lastly, as the new year approaches, I would like to once again encourage our
members to contribute to the magazine. This is the place for us to set the record
straight. We would love to hear your voice in a singular story, ideas for a new column
and even your comments and suggestions to help this publication grow.
Its been a pleasure to spend another year with you. I look forward to seeing
what next year brings.
Happy Holidays,
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
EDITORS NOTE
EDITOR/PHOTO EDITOR
Deena Appel
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Bonnie Nipar
PRESIDENT
Mary Rose
mrose@costumedesignersguild.com
VICE PRESIDENT
Van Broughton Ramsey
vramsey@costumedesignersguild.com
SECRETARY
Ann Somers Major
asomersmajor@costumedesignersguild.com
TREASURER
Marilyn Matthews
mmatthews@costumedesignersguild.com
EXECUTIVE BOARD
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
April Ferry
aferry@costumedesignersguild.com
Salvador Perez
sperez@costumedesignersguild.com
Cliff Chally
cchally@costumedesignersguild.com
Felipe Sanchez (Illustrators)
fsanchez@costumedesignersguild.com
BOARD ALTERNATES
Robert Blackman
rblackman@costumedesignersguild.com
Julie Weiss
jweiss@costumedesignersguild.com
Mark Bridges
mbridges@costumedesignersguild.com
Sharon Day
sday@costumedesignersguild.com
BOARD OF TRUSTEES
Peter Flaherty
pflaherty@costumedesignersguild.com
Jacqueline Saint Anne
jsaintanne@costumedesignersguild.com
Karyn Wagner
kwagner@costumedesignersguild.com
Wendy Chuck (alternate)
wchuck@costumedesignersguild.com
INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Rachael M. Stanley
rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT
Suzanne Huntington
shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com
RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARY
Cheryl Marshall
cmarshall@costumedesignersguild.com
PUBLISHER
IngleDodd Publishing
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Dan Dodd 310.207.4410 x236
Advertising@IngleDodd.com
W
costumedesignersguild.com
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 7
BONNIE NIPAR
(Whats On/ Whats In & Locations)
Joined the Guild in 1997 and
works as a Designer for TV.
Born and raised in Pittsburgh,
she was an art student at
Carnegie Mellon before moving
to Los Angeles. She adores
the process of gathering new
sources, thus writing Locations
is a great t. And for the Whats
On/In, Its a treat to research
the latest accomplishments of
our peers. Bonnie has been so
involved that she recently took
on the role of Associate Editor.
Contributors
ALONZO WILSON
(Boldface Names) Joined the
CDG last fall after 25 years of
working with costumes, most-
ly on the East Coast. Known for
the WB series Dawsons Creek
and HBOs acclaimed series,
The Wire. Alonzo spends most
of the year on location in New
Orleans, designing the series
Treme for HBO but wanted
to participate as a member of
the CDG. Tackling the bear
known as Boldface Names
from his computer seemed
like the perfect fit.
JACQUELINE SAINT ANNE
(Edith Head) Emmy Awardwin-
ning Costume Designer and
former President of the CDG,
continues to serve the Guild as
a Trustee. Born in Panama and
educated in Europe and the U.S.,
she earned her masters from the
Ring Theatre at the University of
Miami. She has designed for film,
video, television, webisodes
and mobisodes, ballet, IMAX,
opera and theater. Chronicling
our Illustrator members since
the very first issue, Saint Anne is
always a welcome contributor.
COURTNEY HOFFMAN
(Meet the Assistants) This Los
Angeles native and CDG newbie
is thrilled to join the writing
staff of The Costume Designer.
A graduate of New York
University, she is happy to be
back in Los Angeles working
alongside her Costume Designer
heroes. She currently works as
an Assistant Costume Designer
for film and TV. I am ecstatic to
have the opportunity to know
my fellow ACDs and share their
stories. I enjoyed the magazine
long before I was a member and
being able to contribute is a
dream come true.
Production Ready,
rain...shine...any time!
COSTUME DESIGN CENTER
Custom Manufacturing
Costume Rentals Prep Spaces
and 2010 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved
818.954.1297 www.wbsf.com
wbsfcostumedesk@warnerbros.com
KARYN WAGNER (History of Dress,Text)
ROBIN RICHESSON (History of Dress,Art)
SUZANNE HUNTINGTON (Boldface Names)
For screening information, visit WaltDisneyStudiosAwards.com 2010 Disney
...the most stunning effects lie in the
A N N H O R N A D A Y |
films ingenious makeup and costumes...
T H E WA S H I N G T O N P O S T
F O R Y O U R
BES T COS TUME DES I GN
C O N S I D E R A T I O N
COL L E E N ATWOOD
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 11
Dear Members,
In November, I attended a memorial service for one of our own. A large photo of Michael Dennisons smiling face
was visible between the heads of many Costume Designers and Costumers roaming the pretty little green patch
that everyone at Western Costume Co. calls Dog Park. Familiar faces were already there to pay tribute to Dixie
(as he was known by his close friends and colleagues), whom they all loved. Fashionably late, I arrived at 11:15
a.m., just in time to catch Ellen Mirojnick speak. Ellen had such a long and close relationship with Michael, as
a friend and as a working partner, on countless films. Her speech was moving, at times funny. Ellen shared the
kind of stories that we all want to have with people we worked with. Michael was an extraordinarily talented
Costume Designer in his prime and was loved by everyone that came in contact with him. He will be so missed
by his peers. Thanks to Eddie Marks for his sensitivity and generosity. This great send-off, complete with laughter
and tears, should be appreciated by all Costume Designers. Please note, Eddie made an announcement that the
Dog Park will be officially renamed Michael Dennison Memorial Park. On an emotional level, having 80 or more
colleagues together to speak about a loved one with such affection and fond memories was a rare and treasured
experience that I wanted to share with you.
You may have also heard that another iconic Costume Designer, Noel Tayor, died at the ripe old age of 97.
Most of our members under 50 may not remember him, but he was nominated for three Emmys and won in
1978 for Actor. He was also honored with our very own Career Achievement in Television Award in 2004. We
can all be proud to say that we are members of the very same Guild that supported these two men who have left us with a legacy of amazing
Costume Design that spans over seven decades.
I cannot end my Presidents letter without a huge THANK YOU to Eddie Marks and Western Costume Co. for sponsoring our holiday
party this year. We are so grateful Eddie, for your tremendous support of the Guild and all our members.
Have a wonderful new year!
In Solidarity,
Mary Rose
mrose@costumedesignersguild.com
PRESIDENTS LETTER
UNION LABEL
December
28 CDG Awards nomination ballots mailed
30 New Years holiday: office closed
January
10 Executive Board Meeting
17 CDG ofce closed for Martin Luther King Day
18 CDG Awards nominations due
21 CDG Awards nominees announced to press
25 CDG Awards final ballots mailed
February
2 Executive Board Meeting
22 CDG Awards event
March
7 Executive Board Meeting
2010/2011 CALENDAR
12 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
Its hard to believe
another year has
come and gone
again. 2010 was
another exciting year here at the Guild. The
year kicked off with FIDMs gala to celebrate
the opening of the Motion Picture Costume
Design exhibit, showcasing the best of 2009.
On Thursday, February 25, we honored the
Art of Costume Design at our annual awards
event with a Career Achievement Award in
Film going to Sandy Powell and one in TV to
Michael Travis. Past President Robert Turturice
was inducted into the Hall of Fame. It was full
swing into our first-ever Illustrators Exhibit
once again hosted by FIDM and then on to the
Emmy gala and exhibit of TV costumes for the
past year also hosted by FIDM.
Our Education Committee worked over-
time with classes on computer skills, photo-
shop, Wacom tablet, negotiating skills and our
weekly Tuesday Tea and Technology classes.
The CDG was a huge hit at Comic-Con
again with our panels and involvement contin-
ues to increase each year. It was a big hit with
fans to have Designers walk the Convention
Hall and surprise them with blue ribbons for
their re-creation of costumes from their favor-
ite films.
This fall, the IATSE organized the success-
ful reality show, The Biggest Loser, as well
as several small-budget films in the L.A. area
opening more opportunities for work for our
members.
Now holidays are upon us again and we
celebrated our fourth annual holiday party
with our largest-ever crowd of more than 175
attendees.
As we look forward to the new year, we
can look back with pride on another full and
successful year.
I wish you and your families the happiest
of holiday seasons and a prosperous and
healthy new year in 2011.

In Solidarity,
Rachael Stanley
rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com
Dear Members
and Friends,
INTERIM EXECUTIVE
DIRECTOR
UNION LABEL
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 15
UNION LABEL
LABOR REPORT
Welcome to the new members
of the Costume Designers Guild,
Local 892, who were initiated by
International Vice President Mike
Miller at the CDG Membership
meeting Monday, November 15.
Mike gave members valuable infor-
mation about the upcoming challenges regarding healthcare
and encouraged them to participate in union-organizing efforts
throughout the year.
Election Phone Banking. Thanks to all our members who
participated in the midterm election phone banking. Our
efforts in California really paid off.

The IATSE Survey sent to all IA Local members needs to be
filled out and sent back to the International. This very impor-
tant survey will help guide the next round of contract nego-
tiations. The survey asks whats important to you as a member.

The entire production crew of the NBC television show The
Biggest Loser (now in its sixth year) walked off the show
on November 8, 2010. Help came with the full backing of the
IATSEbuilding a stronger union movement with volunteer
members of the various locals participating in picket duty to
organize The Biggest Loser. The full support of the County
Federation of Labor and the California State Federation of
Labor endorsed the organizing campaign in solidarity with
the striking crew members of The Biggest Loser. A contract
agreement was reached and accepted by crew members on
Monday, November 22. Thank you to all CDG members who
helped organize The Biggest Loser.

CDG President Mary Rose has tapped Sharon Day to
chair the Education and Retiree Committee with the goal
of offering one and three unit classes through the IDEAS grant
at Valley College. Contract Services will link the skill set and
teaching talents of CDG retirees with current CDG members
for their continuing education.

Motion Picture Industry Pension & Health Plan. Watch
your mail for updates as the healthcare law takes effect in
2011. You should have received the November MPIHP letter
explaining the Patient Protection & Affordable Care Act as it
affects the plan.
In Solidarity,
Betty Madden
bmadden@costumedesignersguild.com
www.spcscreenings.com
BEST COSTUME DESIGN
Julie Weiss
A SHOT OF SIMPLE JOY, BURNISHED WITH THE
AMBER GLOW OF NOSTALGIA AND PERIOD DETAIL.
-Ann Hornaday, THE WASHINGTON POST
A DOWN-HOME PERIOD PIECE. THE PERIOD DETAILS -
THE CARS, THE CLOTHES, THE OLD STOREFRONTS ALONG
MAIN STREET - ARE ATTENTIVELY DESCRIBED.
-Steven Rea, THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER
www.spcscreenings.com
BEST COSTUME DESIGN
Louise Stjernsward
MADE IN DAGENHAM
ITS PERIOD DETAILS ARE COLORFUL AND RESONANT,
AND IT PACKS AN EMOTIONAL PUNCH THANKS IN LARGE PART
TO ITS LEADING LADY - THE DIVINE SALLY HAWKINS.
- James Verniere, BOSTON HERALD
16 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
ow that I have your attention, I hope to at least answer the question,
Who is Debra McGuire and why you might like to know her?
Debra McGuire is a mother, a painter, an activist, a volunteer, a polo
player, an entrepreneur and a most spiritual person. Shes also been a
Costume Designer in the neighborhood of 25 years.
Born in Cleveland, Ohio, designing was one of Debras earliest memo-
ries. At age 7, she sent a sketch to the comic book Millie the Model.
They published her design and gave her credit, pretty much sealing
the deal. It wasnt until the Vietnam War dominated her consciousness that she realized,
1968 was not the time to focus on what people were wearing. While still in high school,
she decided to work with inner-city schools making art to help make sense of the times.
Debra studied art in Boulder, Colorado, where she met a Tibetan Buddistformer monk,
Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche, who became her spiritual teacher. She graduated from the
California College of Arts and Crafts in Oakland, with a B.F.A. in painting and then moved
to Rinpoches artist community in Mendocino. Debra credits the experience during that
time and the formation of her continuing meditation practice to be the most important
ingredients to her development as an artist.
Debra lived in New York in the 80s, channeling her art as a studio painter and jew-
elry designer. When several friends encouraged her to move west and consider Costume
Design, she welcomed the idea of an artistic collaborative process. Stacey Snider gave me
the advice that formed my career. Work for and with people you like and connect to. Make
the work about relationships. Nurture those that mean the most to you so that the work
grows organically and with the people you care most about. My life is like this though,
coincidences and blessings abound!
She took that advice and became extremely prolific in the 1990s, designing countless made-for-
television movies and later, multiple TV series simultaneously. Knowing Debras productivity,
I was curious how she manages to work so much, so often, and did I mention so darn much.
I was also curious if she knew that her volume of work has many designers up in arms. When
we spoke, Debra told me she had no idea that anyone was keeping track of her career and in
fact, found it interesting and sad to think that there are other Designers who might be angry,
confused or jealous that I get so much work. Debra went on to explain, I work mostly for the
same people I started with and that first project branched into all the others. Those relation-
ships continued with Friends and Freaks and Geeks, which is where Debra met Judd Apatow
N
Debra McGuire
?
Who is Debra McGuire and
why does everybody hate her
Friends
and Jake Kasdan. The work didnt come out of the blue for Debra,
it came from successful collaborations, relationships and trust built
over time. When the producers of Friends were juggling three
shows at Warner Bros., they wanted her on board. Debra was very
fortunate to be appreciated for her contributions and the produc-
ers were thrilled that she thrived on multitasking.
I was surprised to hear her perspective on hiring a crew.
I always hire my moms first was what she told me when I called
for references. As a mother myself (who worries if the next pro-
ducer is family-friendly), that really struck a chord. One of the
reasons why I love hiring parents is because they understand how
to prioritize and manage time more efficiently. I hire very talented
and creative people. I let them have a voice and they respectfully
understand the boundaries. They have a lot of responsibility when
I am multitasking and not around all the time.
As the work increased, so did my crews. I was afraid if I did less
work, it might mean losing people. My crews are my extended
family, many of them becoming parents themselves. Many of
our children were born during shooting doggie beds under
the desk for babies the trailer, an obstacle course of toys. I
believed then, as I do now, that real spiritual work takes place in
the everyday goings-on and in the way we treat each other so I
always encourage real life coming first. Working with me requires a
certain-kind-of someone, and it doesnt work for everyone. Lets just
say where Debra and her crews are concerned, the loyalty is mutual.
Debras 16-year-old-daughter Lily was born the day she got the call
to start Friends. It was a Thursday and she had to start that Monday.
As she tells it, I interviewed Diane Crooke on Saturday and hired
her as my supervisor. My mom came along that day to help me with
Lily while my son Gavin (5 years old) was home with the nanny,
Marcela, who is still part of our family today. The director asked me
to leave the stage with my baby basket saying that a soundstage was
no place for an infant. Ours was not a kid-friendly environment until
years later when our executive producer became pregnant, and our
prop mistress and our actors. Then there were nurseries and nannies
all over the stage. Working while raising children is an incredible
challenge. I always had to work and leave my children. In retrospect,
I suppose thats why I insist on children being part of our work life
whenever possible. A new era has dawned but unfortunately for me,
I missed the wave! The great irony is that Debras now-21-year-old-
son Gavin became a member of Local 705 this year!
We all seem to have the same complaint about the misun-
derstanding that costumes fall out of the sky. Day or night.
As Debra puts it, Im working in north Georgia in the middle of
nowhere and the director calls at six oclock to say that it would
be fabulous if in the next scene, the actors could be in tuxedos and
wildly outrageous costumes. Thankfully, it is close to Halloween
and we recall seeing a store with costumes ... somewhere. The
troops head out in opposite directions only to find that the store
is closed. We go over to the shop next door and beg the owner
to give us a contact number for their neighbor. We finally get in
touch with him, ransack the place, call ahead to hair and makeup
to discuss ideas and get the actors in the works, mix up everything
weve got and make it happen. But of course, no one ever asks to
see the magic wand. Just another problem solved again, as the
cameras continue to roll.
Publicity is good.
When I asked Debra if she understands why the costumes on
Friends were so coveted she feels, It just means that I was reflect-
18 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
Walk Hard: The Dewey Cox Story Heroes
20 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
ing back a heightened reality and helping to create a world that the
viewers wanted to be a part of.
The general consensus is that any designer whos getting press helps
us all by putting a face to Costume Design and hopefully, promoting
a better understanding of our work. However, publicity can be a
double-edge sword as Debra found out the hard way. With the suc-
cess of Friends, Debra agreed to a lot of interviews without much
discretion until an editor from Vogue called wanting to do a feature
story. The writer had been interviewing an actor in the courtyard
outside of my store and called the next day. She wanted to do an
article about me and my atelier. I agreed to do the interview if it
could be about me as an artist and designer and not about Friends
and the actors. She agreed. Three months later, Debra discovers the
article in print with a photo of Rachel, Monica and Phoebe splashed
across the front!!! To make matters worse Debra says, There was a
picture of Steve Martin from My Blue Heaven, with a line saying I
had been involved in the design. That was my first project and I was
the INTERN!!! Can you imagine? There were numerous quotes ...
none of which I had said or implied. I was mortified. Everyone was
angry with me. Actors, designers ... everyone!! It was hard for me to
imagine that people would believe I had actually said these things to
a national publication, but they did. I was threatened with lawsuits
and even received a hate letter from a costumer I had worked
with. Our union, however, was very supportive! The journalist was
fired but the damage to my relationships and reputation were long
lasting. I didnt do another interview for almost 10 years.
Debras been thinking a lot about her peers these days. I recently
wrote a fan letter to Lou Eyrich, who designs Glee. I dont get to
watch every week but when I do, I am completely blown away by
her level of creativity. I know what its like to design a hit show.
You are moving at top speed, dealing with the challenges at hand
and the sheer volume of costumes, and then all the additional
requests that come with a high-profile show: personal requests,
photo shoots, interviews, etc. In order to stay focused you have
to eliminate the perspective of the outside world to get the work
done! Its so much more intense than the pace of a film. Most
people dont realize how difficult TV can be.
Working in Michigan over the summer, Debra had the good fortune
to connect with other CDG Designers and Assistant Designers, all
on location in the area. Some she knew personally and some she
met for the first time. With several like-minded artists in one room
it was a bit of a love & respect fest. The meeting just reinforced the
need to stay united. It appears that our work as Designers in this
industry will become even more difficult as the years progress. It is
important that we not judge or speak unkindly about our peers but
instead, try to share our knowledge with each other and support
each other.
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
Anchorman
22 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
n the heart of the NoHo Arts District, across the street
from the Television Academy is the grand dame of jewel-
box theaters, El Portal. Originally built in 1926 as a vaude-
ville house, it opened the year after Edith Head began her
career as a Costume Designer. In August, I saw a small
notice that A Conversation With Edith Head would be
opening at the theater in October. Intrigued, I sought out
Susan Claassen, the performer/creator of the piece, and
eventually clicked with her on Facebook! One thing
lead to another and the Costume Designers Guild gave
her a champagne reception on the sold-out opening night to thank
her for Keeping the Legend Alive.
Susans interpretation of Edith Head (the play written by Susan and
Paddy Calistro) honors the most iconic of Costume Designers. Many
of Ediths colleagues and friends were astonished at the physical,
vocal, and attitudinal likeness of Susan Claassens performance of
the woman and the character, Edith Head.
Herewith is my conversation with Susan Claassen.
What was it that first inspired you to write the piece?
I first got the idea seven years ago while watching a television biog-
raphy of Edith Head. I asked the Motion Picture & Television Fund,
which manages Heads estate, for permission to pursue my project,
which they gave. I met Paddy Calistro, who wrote Edith Heads
Hollywood. It was kismet and we agreed to collaborate. Paddy had
not only written the book but had inherited 13 hours of taped inter-
views with Edith Head which was a gift from heaven. We can truly
say that A Conversation With Edith Head is based upon the words
and thoughts of Edith Headthe Edith-isms.
Through Calistros connections, I met with Bob Mackie, once a
sketch artist for Edith Head; Edie Wasserman, wife of the late Lew
Wasserman; and Art Linkletter, host of the long-running TV magazine
show House Party, on which she regularly appeared. I also met
many former colleagues such as Costume Designers Anthony Powell,
Jean-Pierre Dorlac and Helen Colvig, who gave me a more intimate
glimpse into Ediths world.
You have a striking resemblance to Edith Head.
I literally did a double take when I watched that TV biography ... my
physical resemblance to Edith Head seemed uncanny! And whats
even more bizarre is that we are the same height and both born
in October, 50 years apart! The more I watched, the more I knew
there was a great story to be told.
What is it, do you think, that made Edith so successful?
Edith was an executive woman before there was such a thing! It
was a boys club when she started in the 1920s. If you can imag-
ine, women in the United States had just recently gotten the vote.
Its been said that Edith had the instincts of a pastry chef and the
authority of a factory foreman. From her perspective, I knew I
was not a creative design genius I am a better diplomat than
I am a designer ... I was never going to be the worlds greatest
Costume Designer, but there was no reason I could not be the
smartest and the most celebrated. She knew how to play the game
better than anyone. Her real concern was to change actors into
characters. Edith said, I make people into what they are not10
years older or younger, fatter or thinner, more handsome or more
ridiculous, glamorous or sexy or horrible. The camera never lies
after all, so my work is really an exercise in camouflage.
Is there a moment in the show that particularly touches
you?
We set the play in 1981 during the making of her last film, Carl
Reiners Dead Men Dont Wear Plaid, starring Steve Martin. She
died two weeks after the wrap of the film and the film is dedicated
to her. Throughout the play we see glimpses of a woman who has
outlived all her contemporaries and is wrestling with a lifetime of
memories and regrets.
I
EDITHHEAD
A C o n v e r s a t i o n W i t h S u s a n C l a a s s e n
What would you like audiences to take away with them?
The audience response has been amazing. From Tbilisi to Edinburgh
to Chicago, audiences have been touched by Ediths story. What
they take with them after having seen the performance is truly
dependent on what they bring to it. Film buffs get immersed in
hearing stories from someone who has lived through the evolu-
tion of contemporary film, older audiences remember often see-
ing the closing credits, Gowns by Edith Head evoking a bygone
era, while younger audiences think of the animated film The
Incredibles with Edna Mode, designer to the super heroes. I would
sum up the universal response with a note I received from a fan,
My friend saw the show on Saturday and adored it. If someone
mentions Edith Head to me now, my first reaction will be to say,
Oh yes, I met her once and it was unforgettable!
Ive always wished I had had a conversation with Edith Head.
Now I believe I have.
Jacqueline Saint Anne
jsaintanne@costumesdesignersguild.com
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 23
Saint Anne (in red) and members congratulate Claassen. Susan Claassen as Edith Head
Mary Rose & Ms. Claassen
tinuity to the piece and still have a solid base to return to, without
sacrificing individuality.
Did you have any idea that the shirts (and ties) would be
so critical and so memorable?
I knew they would be. Along with the actors face, they are what
fill the foreground. All of Mr. DiCaprios shirts were designed to
frame his face and jaw. The stand of the collar varied, adhering to
the demands of the scene and the various clothing worn with it.
Collar and cuff sizes varied accordingly, depending on the tie, the
size of the knot, and the style of cuff link.
The shirts look as if they were never worn more than
once. How did they look so impeccable?
The beauty of a shirt crafted by Anto is that the individual body is
taken into account with every seam. I wanted the Cobb character
to have a look of comfortable perfection. A mature look that gave
way to a personal and individual aesthetic, always in charge. I
must also give credit to Leonardos dresser, Cookie Lopez. She was
always on top of things and followed my desires for the characters
physical and sartorial evolution.
Antos Jack Sepepjian tells me that Jeffrey Kurland always makes
us work harder and the secret to the shirts from Inception the
collars were made a little higher, with no tie space and more body
in the interlinings. Good to know.
Starch or no starch?
No starch and good collar stays.
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
While I was struggling with the perfect white shirt for Jimmy Smits,
I saw this little movie called Inception that may have had the
MOST perfect shirts Id ever seen captured on the screen. In fact,
the mens costumes for Inception came up in conversation and in
several of my fittings again and again. Interestingly enough, I was
making shirts for Jimmy at Anto of Beverly Hills; who, as it turns
out, was also the maker of the 300 shirts and the vast majority of
the ties for Inception.
Anto Sepepjian started as a shirtmaker in 1953. His sons Jack
& Ken have continued the family tradition making the perfect
shirt for almost every Costume Designer and male star in the biz,
Leonardo DiCaprio included. Theyve built shirts for DiCaprio for
Titanic (Deborah Scott), Catch Me If You Can (Mary Zophres), The
Aviator (Sandy Powell), Revolutionary Road (Albert Wolsky) and
currently, Hoover (Deborah Hopper).
I wanted to know what made something so simple as a mens
shirt, so memorable so I went to the source, Jeffrey Kurland, the
Costume Designer for Inception.
What was your approach to DiCaprios character Cobb?
Leonardo DiCaprio may have been the star of Inception, but his
character Cobb was also the realized physical soul of the film. His
sense of solidity and maturity combined with a heightened reality,
creates and steadies the style of the film.
I needed Cobb to anchor the film in color and style. By keeping
him the proverbial everyman in warm tones and de-saturated
colors mixed with a generous grey scale, it allowed me to widen
the palette for the other characters. That way I could keep a con-
24 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
the collar stays in the picture
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 27
THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT
MEET THE ASSISTANTS
Courtney Hoffman
courtneyehoffman@gmail.com
J
E
N
N
I
F
E
R

A
N
T
O
N
Y
M
I
C
H
E
L
L
E

L
Y
N
E
T
T
E

B
U
S
H
Pennsylvania-born Bush received
her B.A. in theater from Kutztown
University, and then started her jour-
ney west. After a rewarding pit stop
in the Chicago theater scene for five
years, she headed to Los Angeles to
pursue Costume Design in new medi-
ums. Upon her arrival, she teamed up
with CD Jen Rade. Working with Jen,
Michelle tackled everything from music
videos and commercials to independent
films and red-carpet styling. Armed with
previous experience as a stitcher, a
comprehension of current styles and
a photographic memory, she is fully
equipped to take on a variety of chal-
lenges. Jen Rade explains, One of the
things I love about Michelle is that I can
leave her in charge on set and have total
confidence that she will represent me in
the best way possible. I have complete
trust in her decision-making skills.
No matter what the project,
Michelle makes sure to incorporate
research, preparedness, and dedica-
tion. Her newest venture is assisting
Randall Christensen on Dancing With
the Stars, who explains that Michelle
constantly amazes me with her intu-
itiveness and ability to anticipate my
needs before I even realize that I have
needs.
Michelle takes her creative energy
home where her two cats and a dog try
on their favorite costumes. Then she
screams her lungs out to Green Day to
shake off her daily stress. Michelle rolls
with the punches and keeps her crew
laughing while pursing her passion.
Madamedecostumes@aol.com
La Crosse, Wisconsin, is home to
50,000 people, one of which was ACD
Jennifer Antony. After state-hopping to
Minnesota for a job in Targets trend
department, a movie came to town. A
month later, Jennifer made the decision
to leave a life of cubicles, move to LA
and join the entertainment bandwag-
on. Upon arrival, she started work for
Nordstroms Studio Services to expand
her contacts. With the help of CD Kim
Tillman, Jennifer was thrown into the
commercial world. Since that time, she
has acquired a gamut of film, TV and
commercial experience.
Over the past six years, she has
assisted CD Gretchen Patch on hun-
dreds of commercials and CD Karen
Patch on numerous films. Karen
expands, Jennifer has been an enthu-
siastic, supportive and creative part of
my team for a few years. We have a
seamless working relationship and still
manage to have fun under some very
stressful circumstances.
Jennifer recommends that new
ACDs have a big dose of patience.
This doesnt happen overnight. Work
from the bottom to the top. Im still
learning on the job, every single day I
go to work.
Jennifer is on the move again, relo-
cating her life to Houston, Texas. She
is planning to continue her film and
commercial jobs there, in conjunction
with her work here in Los Angeles.
She looks forward to connecting with
any CDs living or shooting in the
Southwest, so CDs take note!
jellzey@me.com
I
M
O
G
E
N
E

C
H
A
Y
E
S
Hailing from the Bay Areas Sonoma
County, this ACD newcomer was
excited to break in to the film busi-
ness. Previously working in musical
theater in San Francisco, Imogene left
the fishnets of Rocky Horror to earn
her advanced associates degree at
FIDMs Film and TV Costume Design
program. After graduating, she was
granted the Academy of Television
Arts and Sciences Costume Design
internship. Through this program,
Imogene had the chance to work
with absolutely amazing mentors
including CDG President Mary Rose,
as well as CDs Audrey Fisher, Chrisi
Karvonides, Susan Nininger and many
more.
With strong illustration skills,
Imogene hopes to incorporate her
passion for sketching with her abili-
ties as an ACD to be a valuable
asset to the department. She enjoys
researching all genres of costumes
and would love to work in all medi-
ums. Glee CD Lou Eyrich expounds,
Imogene is a delightful addition to
my crew. Her sketches are amazing
and detailed and she has a willingness
to make anything happen. I hope to
have the opportunity to use more of
her talents as an Assistant Designer.
When not working on film and
TV, Imogene has interests in spe-
cial effects, concept art and vid-
eo-game design. Most recently, her
team took second place in Disneys
ImagiNations 2010 Imagineering
Design competition.
imogenechayes@yahoo.com
cant live without
my PT cruiser, MacBook,
laughter and love!
cant live without
scissors, iPhone, and
diet coke
cant live without
coffee, my Blackberry,
safety pins
26 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
28 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT
AFFENROCK, WAMBAIS: German,
started in the medieval era as a quilted tunic,
doublet or tabard worn with armor. Adapted
through the ages, it became a military coat
worn by the Prussian army. In 1935, it was adopted by the
Wehrmacht as a form-fitting, thigh-length, eight-button tunic of
fine grey wool with no external pockets. By 1940, it was no lon-
ger issued to soldiers but instead, it had become a formal dress
uniform. It was also common practice to loan a tunic to a soldier
from regimental stocks for their wedding day.
WAMPUM: The Europeans shortened the original
Algonquin word wapapyaki to wampum. These strings
of beads were used as a medium of exchange, dowry and
respect for events such as weddings and peace treaties.
Girls of some tribes wore wampum to announce their eli-
gibility for marriage. Settlers such as the Dutch quickly
adopted this mode of exchange and even set up New
World workshops to manufacture large amounts of it.
Strings of wampum evolved into belts only after the
First Americans began making peace treaties with
the Europeans.
WATTEAU: The principal style of the French
Regency (17151723) as pictured by the painter
Jean-Antoine Watteau. The original Watteau gown
was a loose sack or dress worn over a tight bodice
and a very full underskirt. The gown had loose
folds falling from the shoulders in back, becom-
ing part of the skirt. The front of the gown varied
in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the
waist, worn closed or open, and if open, reveal-
ing a bodice and underskirt. If the neck in front
was low, the stomacher was also often revealed
and was ornamented with ribbon. A neck frill,
pagoda sleeves, completed the costume. In the
1730s, the Watteau gown became the robe
la Francaise with six box pleats stitched to the
back and ending in a train.
WIMPLE OR
HEADRAIL: A
headkerchief from
the 12th and 13th
centuries. It was
worn on top of the
head and hung to
the shoulders, as
it was unseemly
for a married
woman to show
her hair during
the medieval era.
The wimple was
held in place by a
fillet of metal or by a crown for
a lady of rank. A chin band was often used to keep it in place. It
was mostly made of fine white linen though often in colors;
saffron yellow was particularly popular. A wimple might be
elaborately starched, creased or folded, and supported on
wire or wicker framing, called a cornette. Such elaborate
laundry involved the labor of servants and therefore, dem-
onstrated the status of the wearer. The wimple later became
the headdress of nuns and then hat decoration for ladies of
the late 30s.
WRAPPER: An informal house gown of the late
19th and early 20th centuries, usually with a ruffled
neck, sleeves and hem. Fastened in front and held to
the figure with a tie belt or left to hang loose. Made
of great variety of fabrics, either plain or trimmed
with lace or other decoration. It was revived in
the late 30s as part of the monastic silhouette.
HISTORY OF DRESS A-Z
Illustrations by Robin Richesson
rrichesson@costumedesigners
guild.com
Text by Karyn Wagner
kwagner@costumedesigners
guild.com
W
30 The Costume Designer Fall 2010 Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 31
MALLS
Cumberland Mall
1000 Cumberland Mall, Atlanta, GA 30339
(770) 435-2206
www.cumberlandmall.com
Macys, Sears and Costco.
The best Forever XXI in Atlanta!
Gwinnett Place Mall
2100 Pleasant Hill Road, Duluth, GA 30096
(770) 813-6840
Macys, Sears, JCPenney,
Belk and MegaMart.
(An amazing new concept store
from Korea.)
Lenox Square Mall
3393 Peachtree Road NE, Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 233-6767
HUGE mall anchored by Bloomingdales,
Neiman Marcus and Macys,
with 250 specialty stores.
Mall at Peachtree Center
231 Peachtree Street, Atlanta, GA 30303
(404) 654-1296
www.peachtreecenter.com
Three-tiered mall in the heart of downtown.
Only open until 6 p.m. Closed Sundays.
Mall of Georgia
3333 Buford Drive, Buford, GA 30519
(770) 271-9458
www.mallofgeorgia.com
Dillards, Macys, Nordstrom, JCPenney
and Belk. Plus more than 225 stores.
North Georgia Premium Outlets
800 Highway 400 South
Dawsonville, GA 30534
(706) 216-3609
www.premiumoutlets.com
Featuring more than 140 outlets.
Perimeter Mall
4400 Ashford Dunwoody Road
Atlanta, GA 30346
(770) 394-4270; www.perimetermall.com
Bloomingdales, Dillards, Macys
(Open until 10 p.m. Thu.-Sat.).
Nordstrom and 200 specialty shops.
Phipps Plaza
3500 Peachtree Rd. NE, Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 261-7910
Upscale shopping anchored by Nordstrom,
Belk, and Saks Fifth Avenue.
100 specialty stores including Gucci,
Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo.
Like shopping in Beverly Hills.
Tanger Outlets
1000 Tanger Dr., Locust Grove, GA 30248
(770) 957-5310
www.tangeroutlet.com/locustgrove
More than 70 brand-name outlets just
off I-75 south of Atlanta.
SHOPPING AREAS
Atlantic Station
www.atlanticstation.com
Outdoor mall in midtown with specialty
shops, restaurants, movie theater, all within
walking distance.
Bennett Street
Soho-style mix of galleries and art centers,
a destination for fine art and antique-lovers.
Little Five Points
At the intersection of Moreland Avenue
and Euclid Street. Great vintage and
thrift shopping!
Roswell
Affluent suburb neighborhood just north
of Atlanta.
The District
At Howell Mill Road and I-75.
Walmart, TJ-Maxx, Ross for Less.
Vinings Village Jubilee
Shop and dine in 19th-century charm.
Virginia-Highland
At the intersection of Virginia and Highland
Avenues, this is a quaint historical area with
fabulous shops, art galleries, restaurants,
and nightlife.
BOUTIQUES
Blu Couture Jean House
Located in Phipps Plaza
(404) 869-8000
High-end denim store.
Evolve Boutique
1581 N. Decatur Rd., Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 474-3244
www.evolve-boutique.com
Carries organic, eco-friendly designs, repur-
posed items, trendy labels and independent
designers. Contact: Joyce Justicz, owner.
Fabrik
1114 West Peachtree St., Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 881-8223
Designer denim store for men and women.
Kellys Closet
1649 McLendon Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 377-9923
www.kellyscloset.net
Interesting and tasteful shophalf
wedding salon and other half is a
charming fashion boutique.
Mooncake Clothing Co.
1019 Virginia Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 892-8043
Creative clothing and artisan jewelry.
Rene Rene
1142 Euclid Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30307
404-522-7363
www.renerenedesigns.com
Vintage-inspired fashion by a local designer.
location, location, location:
IN FOCUS
32 The Costume Designer Fall 2010 Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 33
BOUTIQUES
Taste Boutique
Located in The District at Atlantic Station.
(404) 347-0211
www.tasteboutiques.com
Trendy boutique owned by rapper
Bow Wows mom.
Tootsies
3400 Around Lenox Dr. NE
Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 842-9990
One-stop specialty store with unique
artisan jewelry.
Sandpiper
4300 Paces Ferry Rd. SE, Atlanta, GA 30339
(770) 433-2989
Trendy clothing and accessories.
Rebecca Taylor, DVF, Nanette Lapore
Youngblood Gallery and Boutique
636 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 254-4127
youngbloodgallery.com
Indie designers and emerging artists.
MENSWEAR
Bill Hallman Boutique
792 N. Highland Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 876-6055
www.billhallman.com
Emerging and offbeat labels.
Miller Brothers Ltd.
3207 Paces Ferry Place, Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 233-8000
www.millerbrothers.com
Made-to-measure and ready-made suits,
sportswear and furnishings.
Sid Mashburn
1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 350-7135
www.sidmashburn.com
One-stop shop for formal and casual.
VINTAGE & THRIFT
DesU Couture Consignment
1403 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 885-1101
www.desucouture.com
Resale designer pieces at a great price.
Doubletake Recycled Luxury Boutique
Located in StudioPlex Lofts
659 Auburn Ave., Atlanta, GA 30312
(404) 935-8253
Recently opened hip resale store.
Lucky Exchange
212 Ponce De Leon Ave. NE
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 817-7715
www.luckyexchange.com
Buyer has a great eye for good-quality
vintage at amazing prices.
Rag-O-Rama
111 Euclid Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 658-1988
www.ragorama.com
Secondhand apparel in excellent condition.
Stefans
1160 Euclid Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 688-4929
www.stefansvintage.com
Open in 1977oldest vintage store
in Atlanta.
The Clothing Warehouse
420 Moreland Ave., Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 524-5070
www.theclothingwarehouse.com
Good character pieces.
Untamed
387 Joseph E. Lowery Unit #110
Atlanta, GA 30310
(404) 753-5071
www.untamedonline.com
Vintage boutique with variety of
sizes including petites and plus sizes.
SHOE STORES
Friedmans Shoes
209 Mitchell St. SW, Atlanta, GA 30303
(404) 688-8859
www.largefeet.com
Large-size, brand-name shoes.
Walters
66 Decatur St. SE, Atlanta, GA 30303
(404) 688-8859
Great selection of cool sneakers.
SPECIALTY
Azalea Bridal and Formal
2258 Snellville Plaza, Hwy. 78
Snellville, GA 30078
(770) 712-5122
www.azaleabridal.com
Wedding gowns. Sizes 0-32
Deka Athletics
3400 Around Lenox Rd. NE
Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 869-9600
High-end workout clothes. Lines like Adidas
& Puma by Stella McCartney, and Y3.
Horsetown
Multiple locations
www.horsetown.com
The BEST place for country/cowboy
apparel.
Izzy Maternity
2385 Peachtree Rd. NE, Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 949-0222
www.izzymaternityclothes.com
Stylish maternity. Sizes 0-32
Verdier Jewelry
(404) 876-7456
www.verdierjewelry.com
Amazing local jewelry designer
who uses vintage elements to
make new contemporary designs.
FABRIC & TRIM

Gail K Fabrics
2216 Cheshire Bridge Rd. NE
Atlanta, GA 30324
(404) 982-0366
www.gailkfabricsinc.com
Best all-around fabric store. Check hours:
closes early daily and closed Monday.
Lewis & Sheron Fabrics Textile Co.
912 Huff Rd., Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 351-4833
lsfabrics.com
Specializing in upholstery.
Great trim selection!
Peachtree Fabrics
1400 English St. NW, Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 351-5400
www.peachtreefabrics.com
Specializing in upholstery fabrics.
Contact Karen.

EAT & DRINK
10 Degrees South
4183 Roswell Rd. NE, Atlanta, GA 30342
(404) 705-8870
African-Ethiopian food.

Aja
3500 Lenox Rd. NE #100, Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 231-0001
Modern Asian kitchen. Try a signature mai tai.
Atlanta Fish Market
265 Pharr Rd. NE, Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 262-3165
Huge fresh fish menu printed twice daily.
Bacchanalia
1198 Howell Mill Rd. NW, Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 365-0410
www.starprovisions.com
Very pricey fine-dining featuring organic
ingredients. Four-course prix fixe menu.
Bistro Niko
3344 Peachtree Rd., Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 261-6456
A slice of Paris!
Buckhead Diner
3073 Piedmont Rd. NE, Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 262-3336
Nostalgic diner serving
American cuisine with
fresh farm ingredients.
Caf Sunflower
2140 Peachtree Rd. NW, Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 352-8859
Best vegetarian.
Cakes & Ale Restaurant and Bar
254 West Ponce De Leon Ave.
Decatur, GA 30030
(404) 377-7994
New restaurant owned by a
young local couple.
Chops Lobster Bar
70 West Paces Ferry Rd., Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 262-2675
Awesome steakhouse!
Flying Biscuit Caf
1001 Piedmont Ave. NE #103
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 874-8887
www.flyingbiscuit.com
Sunday brunch is a winner, but
they serve breakfast all day, every day.
Highland Bakery
655 Highland Ave. NE #10, Atlanta, GA 30312
(404) 586-0772
www.highlandbakery.com
Popular for brunch.
King of Pops
Handmade popsicles sold from cart at the
corner of North Avenue and N. Highland.
Taking the neighborhood by storm!
Krog Bar
112 Krog St. NE, Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 524-1618
www.krogbar.com
Have a drink after work in an old stove
works building.
Murphys
997 Virginia Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 872-0904
www.murphysvh.com
Upscale comfort food. Tuesday wine-tasting.
Mary Macs Tea Room
224 Ponce De Leon Ave. NE
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 876-1800
www.marymacs.com
First opened in 1945. Great tradition
of Southern cuisine and hospitality.
La Tavola Trattoria
992 Virginia Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 873-5430
www.latavolatrattoria.com
Classic Italian with extensive wine list.
ONE Midtown Kitchen
559 Dutch Valley Rd., Atlanta, GA 30324
(404) 892-4111
www.onemidtownkitchen.com
Fine dining in a renovated urban warehouse.
Parish
240 N. Highland Ave. NE
Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 681-4434
www.parishatl.com
Southern comfort food.
Publik Draft House
654 Peachtree St., Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 885-7505
www.publikatl.com
New-age Southern draft house.
Hearty fare in a relaxed, modern setting.
IN FOCUS

IN FOCUS
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 35
And were off to the races that is. CD Ane Crabtree is holding
the design reigns for the new HBO series Luck, lming on location in
and around Los Angeles as well as Santa Anita Parks racetrack. Stakes
are high as producer/director Michael Mann brings Dustin Hoffman,
Nick Nolte and Joan Allen to the track. The story revolves around a
career bookmaker and money launderer (Hoffman), freshly released
from a four-year-prison stay, crafting a scheme to team with a former
crony (Dennis Farina) and a shady horse trainer (John Ortiz, from
Manns Public Enemies). Other news around town, CD Marissa
Borsetto has completed the new crime series Criminal Minds:
Suspect Behavior at ABC Studios, starring Forest Whitaker and
Janeane Garofalo. CD Terry Ann Gordon is shooting the new
CMT comedy series Working Class, with her team that includes
CD Nancy Butts Martin serving as costume supervisor and ACD
Nickolaus Brown as key costumer. The series marks the net-
works rst foray into original-scripted programming and is due to
wrap this month. This summer, CD Audrey Fisher completed the
pilot All Signs of Death for HBO, another Alan Ball (True Blood)
creation. The story features Echo Park slacker Web, played by Brit
Ben Whishaw, who nds solace in cleaning up gory crime scenes.
CDs Steven Lee and Daniela Gschwendtner made a smooth
transition from the dance oor (DWTS) to the rink, and have glided
right into the new series Skating With the Stars, featuring Mtley
Cre singer Vince Neal and actress Sean Young, among others. CD
Julia Schklair is on The Whole Truth, a new Jerry Bruckheimer
series at Warner Bros., starring Maura Tierney and Rob Morrow.
CD Mark Bridges teamed with CD Pamela Shaw as ACD and
CD Barbara Inglehart supervising, for The Artist, a French
production lmed entirely in Los Angeles with an IA union crew.
The silent, black and white feature starring John Goodman, James
Cromwell, and Penelope Ann Miller revisits the transition in Hol-
lywood from silent pictures to talkies from 1927 to 1931. New
member CD Justin Du-
coty will be digging his
teeth into designing the
new vampire lm Death
Valley, shooting locally
through March. CD Beth
Pasternak was in Whit-
tier and Santa Clarita for
Red State, a lm where a
group of mists encounter
fundamentalism gone to
extremes in Middle Amer-
ica, starring Michael Parks
(Kill Bill), Melissa Leo and
John Goodman. CD Ni-
cole Christine Schott
designed costumes for
indie comedy Shouldve
Been Romeo, with nota-
bles Ed Asner, Carol Kane, Paul Ben Victor and Kelly Osbourne.
CD Ariyela Wald-Cohain recently wrapped the indie For the
Love of Money, a mob story starring James Caan and Paul Sorvino.
CD Dana Rebecca Woods design work can be seen in the
new play Train Driver, by South African playwright Athol Fugard,
now through January at the Fountain Theatre. CD Wendy Ben-
brook just nished designing a short feature, Wish Wizard, for
the Make a Wish Foundation, with all services and goods donated
to the very worthwhile wish-granting organization for children. It
stars Ed Begley Jr.
From across the country, we hear that CD Kathleen Detoro and
her supervisor, CD Robin Bush, just wrapped the new pilot Nec-
essary Roughness in Atlanta. CD Christine Peters is on loca-
tion in Hawaii designing Off the Map until February. CD Denise
Wingate is in Oahu, Hawaii, designing the New Line family ad-
venture Journey 2: The Mysterious Island, with Michael Caine,
Dwayne Johnson and Kristin Davis, and then heads off to North Car-
BOLDFACE AT WORK
BOLDFACE NAMES
Mr. Dippy costume & illustration
Wish Wizard/Make a Wish Foundation recipients from left:
Kabrina Cressey, Kimberly Voegele, Daria Stachowiak, and
Matthew Hartman
Shouldve Been Romeo: Mr. Dippy costume and illustration
34 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
Costume Rentals
Manufacturing
Alterations
Fitting Rooms
& Offices
FI LMMAKERSDESTI NATI ON. COM
818.777.2722 800.892.1979
NBC Universal
EAT & DRINK

Rathbuns
112 Krog St. NE
Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 524-8280
www.ratbunsrestaurant.com
Great place for after-work
dining on Fridays.
Sotto Sotto Restaurant
313 North Highland Ave.
Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 523-6678
Authentic Italian in historic
Inman Park. All-Italian wine list.
South City Kitchen
1144 Crescent Ave.
Atlanta, GA 30309
(404) 873-7358
New Southern cuisine
with a twist.
The Shed at Glenwood
475 Bill Kennedy Way
Atlanta, GA 30316
(404) 835-4363
Order a few sliders, a beer,
and chill.
Taqueria del Sol
1200 Howell Mill Rd. NW
Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 352-5811
www.taqueriadelsol.com
Cross-cultural, fresh, fast
food: Mexican, Southern,
Southwestern.
The Varsity
61 North Ave. NW
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 881-1706
Worlds Largest Drive-in
Restaurant since 1928.
Two Urban Licks
820 Ralph Mcgill Blvd. NE
Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 522-4622
Spicy wood-fired meats and fish.
Live blues Tue.-Sat.
Watershed Restaurant
406 West Ponce De Leon Ave.
Decatur, GA 30030
(404) 378-4900
Good Southern cooking in a
relaxed casual atmosphere.
Try the Georgia pecan tart
with shortbread crust!
Wisteria Restaurant
471 North Highland Ave.
Atlanta, GA 30307
(404) 525-3363
www.wisteria-atlanta.com
Contemporary American with
a Southern twist. Locals favorite!
SPA
Jeju Sauna
3555 Gwinnett Place Dr.
Duluth, GA 30096
(678) 336-7414
www.jejusauna.net
A 24-hour spa! You will feel like
you are in Korea.
Natural Body Morningside
1402 North Highland Ave. Suite #1
Atlanta, GA 30306
(404) 872-1039
www.naturalbody.com
Ask for Wa-nee.
MISC.
Dr. Robert Kaufmann
Emory Health Care
565 W. Peachtree St., NW
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 881-9727
He understands our crazy hours
and will see you quickly.
Dr. Karen Joanson-Scott
(404) 262-9278
Great chiropractor
Dr. Mack Rachal
(404) 215-6520
Dermatologist
OXXO Care Cleaners
3167 Peach Tree Rd., Suite C
Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 660-0571
Organic green dry-cleaning.
Contact: Federico Antun.
Rack Rental
(678) 464-6262
And some supplies.
Contact: Cindy Ganoe
COMPILED BY
Bonnie Nipar
bnipar@costumedesignersguild
.com
SPECIAL THANKS TO
OUR CONTRIBUTORS
Jennifer Bryan, Kathleen Detoro,
Betsy Heimann, Leah Katznelson,
Daniel Orlandi and Ken Van
Duyne
IN FOCUS

IN FOCUS
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 37 36 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
BOLDFACE NAMES
Fashion Week. Sherman is thrilled
with the coverage in WWD, Ap-
parel News, and stylesectionLA,
and is donating a percentage of
ISM prots to a local nonprot
providing after-school programs
for children. www.ismmode
.com Mad Men CD Janie Bry-
ants new book, The Fashion File,
got off to a glamorous start with a
book-signing cocktail and canap
party in November at the Judith
Leiber boutique on Rodeo Drive.
BOLDFACE PRESS
Hollywood star Angelina Jolies sexy style was redened by Os-
car-winning Costume Designer Colleen Atwood for The Tour-
ist, coming out this month. In The Hollywood Reporter feature
Fashions of the Tourist, Atwood spoke with Leslie Bruce about
reworking Jolies obvious beauty into a more subtle and rened
sexuality for the lm, capturing this idea with classic selections:
gloves, not-so-plunging necklines, and a luxurious, elegant, neu-
tral palette. CD Jean-Pierre Dorlac recounted a conversa-
tion with legendary Costume Designer Edith Head for the Los
Angeles Times Image section, October 24. In the midst of his
BOLDFACE ENTREPRENEURS
ACD Inka Sherman has launched her fashion label ISM Mode
and premiered her new line with a runway show at the Concept LA
Shermans new line: models and logo
612.375.8722 or e-mail costumes@costumerentals.org
855 EAST HENNEPIN MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55414 COSTUMERENTALS.ORG
CostumeRentals offers year-round access to the
Guthrie and The Childrens Theatre Companys
combined inventory of extraordinary costume pieces.
PHOTO CREDITS (L TO R): JENNIFER BLAGEN (MICHAL DANIEL), ROBERT CUCCIOLI (T CHARLES ERICKSON), CHRISTINA BALDWIN (MICHAL DANIEL)
Over 30,000 costumes
Designs by leading theatrical designers
Storybook and fantasy characters
Shoes, hats, masks and accessories
olina for more lming in January. CD Wendy Chuck is in New
Orleans on the indie project So Undercover, starring Miley Cyrus.
CD Susanna Puisto just left New Orleans last month designing
From the Rough. CD Debra McGuire was in Georgia on the re-
cently wrapped Universals Wanderlust, with Jennifer Aniston and
Paul Rudd. CD Durinda Wood is back in Michigan designing
Right Angle, a feature based on the Adam Niskar book Busted
the real-life account of a hard-drinking, promiscuous salesman
who becomes a quadriplegic after a tragic accident and struggles
to come to terms with his predicament and his future. News from
New York: CD Susan Lyall is presently designing Man on a
Ledge, starring Sam Worthington, Elizabeth Banks, Ed Harris, Kyra
Sedgwick, and Jamie Bell. The feature focuses a spotlight on a
former-cop-turned-con threatening to plunge off a skyscraper as
a diversion to a big bank heist. CD Christine Bieselin Clark
has signed on to design the Disney feature version of the sci- il-
lustrated novel Oblivion. Joining forces again with Clark is ACD
Carlos Rosario.

CD Shawna Trpcic is the new designer for the BBC series
Torchwood, lming in Los Angeles and England, as well as slip-
ping in design work for the Web series Dragon Age: Tallis. CD
Suttirat Larlarb is in London happy to reteam with her Slum-
dog Millionaire director Danny Boyle for the 2012 Olympics.
They will not only be collaborating on the costumes, but the
overall concept for the opening ceremonies. CD Louise Frog-
ley has teamed up again with Steven Soderbergh, having just
returned from Hong Kong and Chicago, and presently design-
ing the drama Contagion. The action thriller about a widespread
virus threatening humanity, features a long list of headliners
Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon, Jude Law, Marion Cotillard, Kate
Winslet, Laurence Fishburne and Sanaa Lathan. Frogley isnt slow-
ing down anytime soon and heads off for Atlanta, San Francisco,
London, Geneva and Abu Dhabi for the rest of the shoot. CD
Susan Matheson has traveled back to her home country of
South Africa and is currently designing the action feature Safe
House, starring Denzel Washington as a criminal hidden away in
a CIA safe house about to be moved in by house-sitter Ryan Reyn-
olds. Costume Illustrators Phillip Boutte and Constantine
Sekeris round out the team on the exciting futuristic feature,
which will be shooting in Iceland in the spring.
Wish Wizard fairies (above, left). Wish Wizard leprechauns:
Heidi Brucker as Lizzy the Leprechaun (left) and
Jonathan Morgan Heit as Larry the Leprechaun (above, right).
Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 39 38 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
BOLDFACE NAMES
BOLDFACE EVENTS
Most costumes featured in the annual
FIDM Art of Costume Design come to the
museum via a messenger or by courier,
but that wasnt the case for one of the
more standout ensembles from the ex-
hibit. The gorgeously plumed headdress
and beaded costumes from the New Or-
leansbased series Treme were so mas-
sive in size and delicate in nature (the
pieces were shrouded in intricate hand-
beading and covered in feathers), ship-
ping proved too costly. So CD Alonzo
Wilson and his ACD Ann Walters
did the next best thingthey rigged a
17-foot U-Haul to buffer the pieces and
drove it across country themselves! Wil-
son was happy to go the distance to
share the labor of love with the 1,000 or
more people who saw the exhibit.
Compiled by:
Alonzo Wilson
yourowndesigner@aol.com
Suzanne Huntington
shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com
CD Alonzo Wilson & his ACD, Ann Walters
C
u
a
d
p
ro

M
a
rk
e
tin
g
1
0
-6
2

Hollywood Branch
817 N. Vine Street, Suite 200
Hollywood, CA 90038
Toll Free: 800 / 393-3833
Phone: 323 / 462-6447
Fax: 323 / 462-4411
Studio City Branch
11440 Ventura Blvd, Suite 101
Studio City, CA 91604
Toll Free: 800 / 393-3833
Phone: 818 / 763-7005
Fax: 818 / 505-8407
Designing stylish...
Products and Services.
That makes banking just a little easier!
For DETAILS, call us toll free at
1-800-393-3833 or visit us online at
www.musicianscu.org
Here at MICU were showing off our talent and letting our creative
side show, by finding ways to bring you simple banking.
* New Auto Loan rates as low as 3.25% up to 60 months
* Used Auto Loan rates as low as 4.25% up to 60 months
* Free access to over 28,000 CO-OP Network ATMs and 800,000
ATMs worldwide through links to the NYCE, STAR, Cirrus,
Pulse and Plus networks
* Car buying services through Autoland, Redbook, & Executive
Car Leasing
* Our free checking account offers you both ATM and free debit
cards with REWARDS.
We also offer CURewards for our VISAcredit card
* Free Online Teller and Money Maestro Audio Teller
* Real Estate loan services through West Coast Realty (personal
service). If we cant fund the loan well help you find a lender
who can help you.
We offer guaranteed lowest loan rates for all consumer loans. Well
MEET or BEAT other approved rates from financial institutions.

For DETAILS, call us toll free at
1-800-393-3833 or visit us online at
www.musicianscu.org
C
u
s
t
o
m

m
a
d
e

a
n
d

A
l
t
e
r
a
t
i
o
n
s

f
o
r

t
h
e

E
n
t
e
r
t
a
i
n
m
e
n
t

I
n
d
u
s
t
r
y
costumeco-op.com
11501 N. Chandler Blvd.,
North Hollywood, CA 91601
Tel: 818 752-7522
Fax: 818 752-7524
mail@costumeco-op.com
C
O
S
T
U
M
E

C
O
-
O
P
memoir-in-progress, he went into detail about how it was Edith
who deserved the real credit for those famous frocks worn by
Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina. After designing For Colored Girls,
CD Johnetta Boone was thrilled to then go on to style the
lovely ladies and men of the cast (with exception of Janet Jack-
son and Tyler Perry) for the December covers of both mens and
womens Essence magazine. In Wall Street news, or more speci-
cally, Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps news, CD Ellen Miro-
jnick sat down for an interview with Los Angles Times Image
writer Adam Tschorn to share her thoughts and inspirations in
designing both the rst and current lm, and the thumbprint left
on the American mens wardrobe. In the contemporary version,
Money Never Sleeps, Mirojnick framed the lead male characters
faces with distinctive collars for each and modeled the tones in
Gordons (Michael Douglas) wardrobe to the silver and grays of
an ocean-swimming shark. CD Luke Reichles Castle actors
took time out to speak about their roles and how their looks are
dened and eshed out by the work of their Costume Designer!
http://bit.ly/bHng8n
Michael DouglasWall Street: Money Never Sleeps
BooneMens & ladies cover of Essence magazine
BOLDFACE PRESS
40 The Costume Designer Fall 2010 Fall 2010 The Costume Designer 41
Little Fockers
Costume Designer:
MOLLY MAGINNIS
Assistant Designer:
NANROSE BUCHMAN
D
e
t
r
o
it

1
-
8
-
7
,
N
o

O
r
d
in
a
r
y

F
a
m
ily
/
A
B
C
;
T
h
e

D
e
f
e
n
d
e
r
s
,
H
a
w
a
ii
F
iv
e
-
O
,
$
#
*
!

M
y

D
a
d

S
a
y
s
,
J
e
s
s
e

S
t
o
n
e
:
N
o

R
e
m
o
r
s
e
,
M
ik
e

&

M
o
lly
/
C
B
S
;
T
h
e

E
v
e
n
t
,
C
h
a
s
e
,
L
a
w

&

O
r
d
e
r
:
L
o
s

A
n
g
e
le
s
,
O
u
t
s
o
u
r
c
e
d
/
N
B
C
;
H
o
t

in

C
le
v
e
la
n
d
/
T
V

L
a
n
d
Hawaii Five-O
Costume Designer:
KATHRYN
MORRISON
$#*! My Dad Says
Costume Designer:
LORI ESKOWITZ-
CARTER
Detroit 1-8-7
Costume Designer:
AGATA
MASZKIEWICZ
Chase
Costume Designer:
TANEIA LEDNICKY
Law & Order:
Los Angeles
Costume Designer:
MICHELE MICHEL
No Ordinary Family
Costume Designer:
WENDY GREINER
Assistant Designer:
BRIGITTA ROMANOV
The Defenders
Costume Designer:
GIGI MELTON
Jesse Stone:
No Remorse
Costume Designer:
BETSY COX
Assistant Designer:
DENISE BARRETT
Mike & Molly
Costume Designer:
SIMON TUKE
The Event
Costume Designer:
JILL OHANNESON
Hot in Cleveland
Costume Designer:
KARLA STEVENS
How Do You Know
Costume Designer:
SHAY CUNLIFFE
The Tourist
Costume Designer:
COLLEEN ATWOOD
Assistant Designer:
CHRISTINE
CANTELLA
Frankie and Alice
Costume Designer:
RUTH CARTER
Due Date
Costume Designer:
LOUISE
MINGENBACH
Assistant Designer:
ALISON MCCOSH
The Company Men
Costume Designer:
LYN PAOLO
Faster
Costume Designer:
SALVADOR
PEREZ
Burlesque
Costume Designer:
MICHAEL KAPLAN
Assistant Designer:
STACY CABALLERO
For Colored Girls
Costume Designer:
JOHNETTA BOONE
Assistant Designer:
ALEX BOVAIRD
True Grit
Costume Designer:
MARY ZOPHRES
Assistant Designer:
JENNY EAGAN
The Way Back
Costume Designer:
WENDY STITES
WHATS ON WHATS IN
D
u
e

D
a
t
e
/
W
a
r
n
e
r

B
r
o
s
.;
F
a
s
t
e
r
/
C
B
S

F
ilm
s
;
L
o
v
e

&

O
t
h
e
r

D
r
u
g
s
/
2
0
t
h

C
e
n
t
u
r
y

F
o
x
;
B
u
r
le
s
q
u
e
/
S
c
r
e
e
n

G
e
m
s
;
T
h
e

T
o
u
r
is
t
/
S
o
n
y

P
ic
t
u
r
e
s
;
H
o
w

D
o

Y
o
u

K
n
o
w
/
C
o
lu
m
b
ia
;
T
r
u
e

G
r
it
/
P
a
r
a
m
o
u
n
t
;
F
o
r

C
o
lo
r
e
d

G
ir
ls
/
L
io
n
s
g
a
t
e
;
T
h
e

C
o
m
p
a
n
y

M
e
n
/
W
e
in
s
t
e
in

C
o
.;
L
it
t
le

F
o
c
k
e
r
s
/
U
n
iv
e
r
s
a
l
P
ic
t
u
r
e
s
;
T
h
e

W
a
y

B
a
c
k
/
N
e
w
m
a
r
k
e
t
;
F
r
a
n
k
ie

a
n
d

A
lic
e
/
F
r
e
e
s
t
y
le

R
e
le
a
s
in
g
Love & Other Drugs
Costume Designer:
DEBORAH LYNN
SCOTT
Assistant Designer:
BRIAN KOPP
Outsourced
Costume Designer:
SUSIE DESANTO
42 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
SCRAPBOOK
Courteney Cox and Debra McGuire, Friends, 19942004.
WOODBURY UNIVERSITY
7500 Glenoaks Boulevard
Burbank, California 91510
mcd.woodbury.edu/fashiondesign
Happy Holidays
and
Best Wishes for a
Happy and Healthy
New Year

Das könnte Ihnen auch gefallen