Staystitching

11.135 Page 1

What is it?
Staystitching is a row of directional stitching sewn just inside a seamline to help keep the
area from stretching during construction, fitting and general handling. Normally,
staystitching is done only on curved or angular seams, though it may be done in other
areas on unstable fabrics like loosely woven or very stretchy fabrics.

Staystitching uses a regular length stitch Taking direction

and it's done through a single fabric layer
using thread that matches the project. This The stitching direction is key to
stabilizing stitching remains in the garment successfully maintaining a project's shape
or project after the construction stitching is during construction and fitting. Follow
complete. these hints for going the right way.
Necklines: from shoulder to center
When is it done?
Staystitch immediately after removing the V-necklines: from point to shoulder line
paper pattern piece from the cut fabric. On Neckline facings: from shoulder seam to
unstable fabrics, any handling and/or neckline center on both inner and outer
pressing can distort the cut section causing edges; from outer edge to neckline on
it not to match corresponding pieces or the shoulder seams
original pattern.
Round collars: from front/back opening
Where is it done? to neckline
Common locations are curved and V- center
necklines, armholes, angled seamlines like Shoulders:
bodice side seams, curved waistlines and all from neckline
facings that fit these areas. to armhole
On garments with traditional 5/8" Armholes:
seamlines, staystitching is done 1/2" from from shoulder
the garment cut edge. On placket to side seam
seamlines (often on bias grain), like zippers
or snap openings, staystitching is done 1/4" Side seams
from the cut edge for added stability. (bodice): from
armhole to
Staystitch pockets and yokes on the 5/8" waistline
seamline and use the stitching line as a
guide for pressing under sharp, even Waistlines
seamline edges. (bodice and
skirt): from
Never staystitch long bias-cut edges, as side seams to
they will distort beyond correction. center
How is it done? Hiplines
Staystitching is traditionally sewn on woven (skirt): from
fabrics and the general rule is to stitch from hip notch up to
wide to narrow. For example, when waistline (1/4"
stitching side seams, sew from the from the edge
underarm seam to the waistline; on at zipper
necklines, stitch from the shoulder point to openings)
 Staystitching
11.135 Page 2

the center, breaking the stitching at the center and
sewing the opposite side from shoulder point to center
as well. Continually stitching a neckline edge would
defeat the purpose of sewing with the fabric grain.
Staystitching lines cross at adjacent edges as stitching
goes all the way from cut edge to cut edge, without
regard to seamline width.
Checking size and shape
Once staystitching is complete, lay the paper pattern
over the stitched pieces to be sure they match for the
correct size and shape. If not, gently pull on the stitches
with a pin every 2" to 3" to return the distorted piece to
the proper size, and lightly press it into shape.

Why isn't staystitching done on all seamlines?

Staystitching can be done on all seamlines (except long
bias edges) if desired, but unless the fabric is very
loosely constructed, it isn't necessary. Seamlines cut on
a straight or nearly straight fabric grain don't tend to
stretch during handling.

Tip: If you're traveling with a partially constructed project,

or don't expect to finish it in a reasonable amount of time
after cutting, staystitching will help it maintain its shape
for the duration.
Is staystitching only for woven garment fabrics?
Though most commonly used on unstable woven
fabrics, staystitching can also be used on knit fabrics to
help them maintain their shape. It's done in the same
locations on the knit as on a woven fabric.
Staystitching can be helpful on some home decorating
projects as well, especially when using loosely woven or
otherwise unstable fabrics, and layering multiple fabrics
together.
Use a pin to draw up staystitching, shaping
a garment section to its original size.
If the staystitching pulled the stitched piece smaller
than the original pattern, clip the stitching every 2 to 3"
and gently pull it to the matching shape.
Clip Tricks
When constructing a garment, use staystitching as a
guideline for the depth of clipping and notching
needed on curved seams. For example, when
clipping a neckline opening, clip only to the
staystitching, not through it.

1/07
 Princess Seams
11.310 Page 1

Princess seams are a variation of darts, allowing the creation of a fitted garment through
the use of shaped seams. They start at the waist and travel toward the most prominent part
of the body in that quadrant of the garment. For example, on a bodice front they travel
over or near (within 1 1/2") the bust point, while on the bodice back they travel over or
near the shoulder blades. Though less common, skirt or pants princess seams start at the
waist and travel over or near the fullest part of the abdomen and/or near the fullest part of
the buttocks.

Style Options
Because the seam always starts at the waist,
names of princess seam styles refer to the
ending point. Two classic styles of princess
seams are shoulder (1) and armhole (2). A
princess seam can end almost anywhere—
in the neckline (3) or in the center front (4),
depending on the garment design.
1 2
Different From Darts
To see how a princess seam is related to
darts, place the front and side front pattern
pieces of an armhole princess-seamed
bodice (5) side by side with a bodice front
containing a waist and an armhole bust dart
(6). A princess seam is actually the
combined waist and bust darts, with the
curved lined smoothed between and seam
3 4
allowances added to the new edges on each
pattern piece.

Great Grains
Many sewers find curved seams easier to
sew and fit than curved bust darts. Princess-
seamed bodices allow for a more precise use
of the garment fabric grain than darted
bodices, because each pattern piece has its
own grainline. This creates more or less
distortion of the patterns/stripes/figures on 5 6
the garment fabric for styling purposes. For
example, all of a darted bodice front is cut
on the same grain line (7), causing pattern
distortion as the darts are sewn. The front of
an armhole princess seamed jacket might
be cut on the lengthwise grain, while the
side front can be cut on the true bias (8) as a
design feature.

7 8

11.310
Sewing Curved Seams
The traditional way to sew a princess seam is to start by
staystitching the most convex curved piece 1/8" inside
the seamline with a small stitch length. Then place the
garment pieces right sides together keeping the piece
with the convex curved edge next to the feed dogs
during sewing. (If you cup your hand, the back of your
hand creates a “convex” curve and the inside creates a
“concave” curve.) When sewing an armhole princess-
seamed garment side front to the front, the side front is
placed against the feed dogs with the front piece on
top of it.
The fabric against the feed dogs travels faster than the
upper fabric layer, easily easing the rounder curve to the
flatter curve. Curves stitch easier and look better when
sewn with smaller length stitches.
Match the stitching lines of the two pieces when you
sew them together, not the fabric edges. Don’t tug the
curves to get them to fit, as this will distort the fabric
and the garment’s fit. The seamlines on the adjacent
pieces should be comparable in length, usually within
about 1/2", easily eased by the feed dogs.
When sewing princess seams this way, it is easy to
stretch the fabric resulting in distortion. To get the seam
allowances to lie flat requires clipping into the seam
allowance and this also weakens the seams.
Princess Seams
Page 2
Quadrant
When referring to the body or clothing, a “quadrant”
is one quarter—the left front is one quadrant of the
human body and the right back is another.
A more contemporary approach to sewing princess
seams is to re-draw the seam allowances to 1/4" before
cutting out the garment and sewing the seams right
sides together with the convex curve against the feed
dogs. The smaller seam allowance width makes the
seams easier to sew without the risk of stretching the
fabric edges and the narrower seams don't require
clipping to lie flat, so the seam allowances are stronger.
Seam Allowance Savvy
Since princess seam allowances are curved and
primarily on the bias grain, minimal finishing is needed.
The seam allowances can be left alone or finished with
pinking shears. For ravelly fabrics, a line of three-step
zigzagging next to the seam allowance edges will
suffice. Serging the seam allowances may add bulk to
the area, so test before choosing this option.
4/07