Sie sind auf Seite 1von 10

Installing Brazilian Hard Wood Decking

Deck Ventilation
When designing your deck plan, you must provide for adequate ventilation to assure long term stability and avoid cupping. Proper air ventilation allows air to flow in from outside the deck area and under the joists to evaporate moisture. Gently sloping the soil under the deck away from the house and covering soil with plastic is recommended for any type of deck installation. Allow a 1/8" gap between standard deck boards for drainage and airflow.

Subfloors
NEVER install a sub floor underneath ANY decking. This will cause cupping. Fasten boards directly to the joists.

Fasteners
For screws, we recommend the high-quality, stainless steel "self-drilling" type or coated screws. Using lower quality fasteners can cause black staining. To install Brazilian hardwood decking, you must pre-drill a pilot hole and countersink to avoid splitting, even when using self-drilling screws. The Smart-Bit drills and counter-sinks the perfect hole for our brown Headcote SS screws. Always ensure the connection between the floor and the main structure is flashed with MCQ compatible flashing and installed with MCQ compliant fasteners when using pressure-treated (PT) joists. You cannot use indoor flooring fasteners because the chemicals in PT will quickly destroy them. Stainless steel fasteners provide the best results. Because stainless steel is not as hard as steel and Brazilian decking is hard, pre-drilling is required when installing any Brazilian decking The Deck Clip and the Ipe-Clip are two of the best hidden fasteners available and BWD kerfs (grooves) decking to accommodate these fasteners. Screws must be installed at an angle through deck boards when using the Ipe Clip but can be installed without pre-drilling when using the Deck Clip. A BowWrench is handy for pulling boards together when installing decking. ALWAYS use subfloor adhesive in addition to your fasteners when installing T&G decking or when using hidden fasteners to prevent any movement in the future.

Working with Wood


All wood will shrink and expand at a far greater rate outside than indoors. So, a deck may end up buckling if boards are jammed together too tightly during installation. T&G decking is not indoor flooring and must not be installed too tightly. Standard decking should also be installed to leave

some room for expansion because all wood displays minor shrinkage and expansion after installation. All wood splinters. Wood workers are very familiar with this basic law. Common sense precautions should always be observed. For example, use gloves when handling and do not slide on wood decking or flooring.

Finishing
Unlike traditional decks and porches, Brazilian hardwood does not need any painting or finishing. It will remain durable and rot resistant for a lifetime. Left unfinished, it will weather to a silvery gray. You can protect the hardwood from graying by applying a finish periodically. Some species may show black spots around screws if you do not finish your deck. In addition, metal tools, shavings or screws left over night on an unfinished deck may leave stains. Finish the deck for best results. Messmers Hardwood Deck Oil out performs all other deck finishes that weve tried. Wait five to ten days after installation and apply only one coat of deck finish. Apply 2nd application after finish begins to fade, which could be as soon as six to eight months on decks that have full sun in southern climates and as long as 12 months for decks with limited sun exposure. Follow-up applications will be needed at progressively longer time periods between applications. Dont apply a new coat of finish before deck begins to fade. This will prevent over application, which could result in a sticky finish. During installation, apply wax emulsion to the ends of boards when cut to help prevent end checking.

Tongue and Groove Installation


Tongue and groove decking is a hybrid between a floor and an open deck and yields the best results when installed under a roof. It is blind nailed or screwed so that water can get thru. So, you must always allow for drainage and ventilation. Moisture trapped below the deck or underneath deck boards will cause cupping. Because of the hardness and minimal movement of hard wood decking, T&G deck board joints do not need to meet on joists. Installing T&G decking with joints assures the look of indoor flooring while retaining the durability of outdoor decking completing its hybrid appeal.
UNDAY, AUGUST 24, 2008

Aluminum Hidden Deck Clip Installation Face Screwed deck installation is preferred over nails because they simply hold better. In addition, you can choose stainless steel screws, which will not stain your beautiful decking. Stainless steel nails are only (easily) available in finish nails because SS nails are too soft to use for most applications.
Hidden Fastener Deck Clips are often chosen by customers who don't want to see the

heads of the screws in the face of their deck boards. To use these, the boards must be kerfed (grooved) on the sides so that the clips can be inserted into the boards. The Ipe Clip Extreme is an effective product made of stainless steel covered with plastic to blend in with the wood color. This ipe clip is installed by driving a screw through the hole in the clip at a 45 degree angle and through the board thereby holding the board from moving as the board shrinks slightly. Most installers find it easier to pre-drill a hole in the board so that they can drive the screw more easily. This pre-drilling to install the ipe clip is an extra step that some prefer to avoid.

Aluminum Deck Clips are preferred by some installers because pre-drilling is not necessary. These deck clips are durable and hold well but the boards may shift as they shrink because the screws are not driven down through the board. The screws are driven straight down through the clips between the boards. Using All Weather Sub Floor Adhesive solves this problem. The installation procedure

for

these aluminum deck clips is shown here.

Run a bead of adhesive down the top of the joists where you are beginning your deck installation.Apply enough to accommodate your first two or three boards. Install your deck clips along the entire edge of the first board with a clip on each joist. The screw must be run down until the top of the screw is level with the clip. Do not tighten it down because this will tilt the free edge of the clip down thereby preventing you from slipping the 2nd board into place.

Once you've installed clips on every joist along the edge of the first board, slip the leading edge of the 2nd board into the clips snuggly. Now, install the clips into the 2ndedge of the 2nd board on every joist making sure that you only drive the screw down until it is level with the clip. Do not screw it down too tightly. Once this 2nd clip is installed on the 2nd board, go back to the nearest clip between the two

boards and tighten it down firmly. Now, the clip will press the boards down on the glue and sufficiently seat them permanently. Repeat this procedure to complete your deck.

A different installation technique must used for the first board edge (often against the house), the last edge (away from the house), the steps and risers because there is no joist to screw into or you cannot access the edge of the board. Plugs that match your deck species are a very

good option but the installation is tedious and they don't leave any option to replace boards later if that need arises.

Hidden Bracketsthat screw to the the joists and to the under side of deck boards are a good option. They install easily and can be used on these few areas where the deck clips simply don't apply well. There you go . . . hidden deck fasteners.

MONDAY, JUNE 28, 2010

Best Finish For Ipe and Other Hardwood Decking and Siding
Of the decking choices available in the U.S., hardwood decking is gaining popularity more than any other. The durability, beauty and price make Ipe (the most well known), cumaru, jatoba, tigerwood, massaranduba and garapa hardwoods the best choices. The varied characteristics between the species provide color and grain patterns for all tastes and budgets.

Finishing the deck correctly is a key factor to maintaining the hardwoods beauty. There are popular finishes designed for hardwoods in oil-based and water-based formulas. Weve tested all of the products on the market that weve heard of. Weve found that while the water-based formulas hold color longer during the first year after application, the premium oil-based formulas give the wood the best luster and perform better over years of continued applications on ipe, cumaru, tigerwood and all of the hardwood species. Water-based finishes, Flood Companys UV Hardwood being the best, seal the boards nicely and penetrate well but never bring out the luster of these beautiful hardwoods like oil-based finishes.Followup applications do not penetrate as well and leave an opaque color to the wood, which covers that grains beauty. Some contractors have noted that oil-based follow-up applications to the original water-based application bring out the luster nicely for ipe, garapa, massaranduba and other hardwoods. The finish manufacturers do not support mixing products as noted on their web sites and technical support. The oil-based finishes made specifically for hardwoods performed better over the long term than waterbased finishes. Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Penofin Hardwood Deck Oil, Ipe Oil and Messmers UV Plus For Hardwoods are among the top brands that we tested. We found thatMessmers outperforms the others for penetration, luster, long life and ease of application. We tested these products on Ipe, jatoba, garapa, massaranduba, jatoba, tigerwood, angelim, tatajuba and sucupira with comparable results. Oil is best applied when the sun is low, the wood is dry, above 50 degrees and being sure to back brush or otherwise leave no puddles. Follow-up applications should always be applied after the wood has begun to weather or fade. This could be as soon as 6 months in hot full sun situations or 12 months on boards having less sun exposure.Successive applications will be applied with continually longer periods between applications. The oil and UV protection accumulates in the hardwood without covering up the hardwoods natural beauty. If the wood is left to gray, a good hardwood cleaner can be used to lift the gray out without the need to pressure wash or sand your deck. A new application of deck oil brings back its natural beauty. Notice this selection of boards that we tested in a HOT full sun environment. After 5 months, the oil-based finishes began to fade while the water-based finish held more of its color. When the oil was applied, the oil-based finishes came alive and back to its original luster in the 2nd photo.

Building a Ground-Level Deck


Decks are a perfect area for outdoor entertaining and outdoor relaxing. The style of deck you choose to build determines how you use your deck, as well as how you build it. Although similar in appearance, different decks can require different construction techniques. Our Installation Services experts built this Ground-Level deck and documented the steps taken in order to help you build your own outdoor living area. You will see how the deck was assembled, why material choices were made, and the approximate time it took to do the work. Use this example to help you plan your own deck. Step One

Batterboards and mason's string lines were used to lay out footing locations for a deck that is approximately 8 feet wide and 10 feet long. Six holes for 8-inch-diameter footings were dug with a posthole digger. Each hole is 12 inches deep. There is no frost line to deal with since this is a freestanding deck. Tube forms were used to level the footings about 1 inch above ground level. Approximate time for a novice (with a helper) to lay out footing locations, dig holes and level tube forms for this deck: 5-7 hours. Step Two

Six 60-pound bags of ready-mix concrete were mixed in a wheelbarrow. Post anchors for 4x4 posts were attached to the footings after the concrete cured for 48 hours. The anchors were aligned with a long straight board. Diagonal measurements were checked to square the anchor positions. Approximate time (not including curing time): 3-4 hours. Step Three

Beams were made from double 2x6s. They were attached in the post anchors. A 1/2-inch-thick pressure-treated shim was installed between the beam and one side of the anchor at each footing. The anchor is 3 1/2 inches wide and the beam is 3 inches thick.

Approximate time: 2-3 hours. Step Four

Beam alignment was checked and adjusted as necessary to make certain beams were square. Approximate time: 1/2-3/4 hour. Step Five

2x6 rim joists were attached to the ends of the beams. Angle brackets were installed to provide additional support for the corner joints. Approximate time: 1-1 1/2 hours. Step Six

Inner 2x6 joists were attached to the beam faces with joist hangers. Approximate time: 3-5 hours. Step Seven

Align the inside edge of the first length of decking with the chalk line. Drive two fasteners through the board into the center of each joist. Position each fastener to 1 inch from the edge of the board. Approximate time: 3-5 hours. Step Eight

A chalk line was snapped to mark a straight cutting line. Decking was trimmed to length with a circular saw. Approximate time: 1/4-1/2 hour. Total approximate time for this ground-level deck: 16-24 hours.

Courtesy Brazilian Wood Depot

Das könnte Ihnen auch gefallen