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ANATOMY OF A RAMADAN
FIRECRACKER
NEW BOOK OF EGYPTIAN
ART MISSES SOME GIANTS

What's at Stake

I S S U E 30 • W W W.CAI RO MAGAZ I N E.CO M • 3-9 N OVE M B E R 20 0 5 • L E 7


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2 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 3
news news
Breathing room 3-9 November
With the opposition massing, if not lining up, to take a
collective swipe at the regime’s parliamentary power-
base, the upcoming elections will be interesting. And
with businessmen increasingly looking to move into
the driver’s seat, it could be that the engines of privati-
zation are just beginning to rev up.
This is good news for business generally, and music
to the ears of neo-cons in Washington and London, the
ones who spout that specious nonsense about how
democracy, freedom and general happiness inevitably
follow from free trade and privatization.
Businesspeople are necessary. Somebody has to
create employment, pay taxes and provide services.
It is easy enough to identify a community of interests
among businesspeople. They need a certain degree of
freedom in which to operate—burden them with silly
taxes and an unworkable regulatory system and either
they or their money will simply go elsewhere.
This is fair enough. However, democracy, freedom,
social services, human rights, environmental controls,
safety regulations, building codes and an education
system that teaches anything other than job skills are
DANA SMILLIE

not necessary items on the list. In fact, they are more


often seen as impediments—expensive luxuries that
might, or might not, be affordable once low wages,
high unemployment, low taxes and a general absence At Cairo University, students and faculty are demonstrating for a campus free of government interference.
of regulation have allowed the factory owners to build
up a big enough surplus.
Other countries balance the contradictory demands
of capitalists versus the rest of us in different ways. In the
news business culture
West, the twentieth century was a century of protracted,
and sometimes violent, struggle to define the balance
6 News in brief 14 On the waterfront 24-25 Not the whole picture
Catch up on recent headlines. Alexandrian dockworkers Liliane Karnouk’s useful new
of power between big business (as often as not in the
demand canceled bonus. book ignores key artists.
uniform of the state), unions and civil rights groups.
7 Keeping the peace
As a starting point, the balance of power in Egypt is
not promising.
After deadly sectarian riots, 15Businessmen
Powerbrokers
everyone is pointing fingers. dominate this
Thanks to a decrepit education system, the work-
year’s parliamentary lists.
force has little bargaining power on the world market,
and thanks to a repressive government, there is no 8 The Birds
meaningful trade union system. Egypt braces for bird flu.
Giving business its breathing space is a practical ne-
8 Nukes and zibda in-depth
cessity, but we have to ensure that there’s enough air
left over for the rest of us. Iran’s nuclear program may be
making the neighbors jealous.
18Professors
The ivory dungeon
are resisting security
incursions on campus.
9 Tapping out
Editor: Matthew Carrington Karam Gaber, Egypt’s Olympic
Managing Editors: Issandr El Amrani and
Elijah Zarwan
golden boy, is emigrating.
opinion
News Editor: Charles Levinson
16 Bullpen 24
Culture Editor: Ursula Lindsey
Contributing Editors: Steve Negus, elections 16 From the driver’s seat
Paul Schemm and Sameh Fawzy
Copy Editors: Matt Hall and Luke Yarbrough 10 Spirit of ‘84 What taxi drivers have to say
about the Alexandria riots. 27 Arabic Literature 2.0
Writers: Ahmad Aboul-Wafa and Eman Shaban Morsi These parliamentary elections
Interns: Judith Boessenkool and Kristina Roic will be the ones that count. Union and website for Internet
Design coordinator: Michael Keating 17 Press Review writers highlight new genre.
Staff photographers: Ahmad Hosni and 11 High noon Cartoons from the Arabic press.
Tara Todras-Whitehill A son looks to avenge his
Cover Photo: Dana Smillie
Published by AS & A Publishing
father’s defeat in Abbasiya.
out and about 25-26 listings
Printed by Sahara Printing Company S.A.E. 13 Free shoes Theater, music, workshops and
exhibitions.
Designed by Fatiha Bouzidi The battle for Bab Al Shaariya
gets dirty.
22Though
Anatomy of a firecracker
illegal, these Ramadan
For advertising contact: traditions are hot items.
Cairo Media Services
39 Qasr Al Nil Street, Suite #24, Cairo, Egypt
13 Dueling Islamists in Bulaq
The “religious vote” is up for 23 Malibu
30 and finally...
Pagodas in Myanmar, this
Telephone: 010 171 1408 grabs in Giza. New Doqqi eatery is no SoCal, week in regional history and
memad@cairomagazine.com but offers service with a smile. Golo’s turn to deal.

4 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 5
news
briefs news

the week in review


Kurdistan, suspected of carrying A World Trade Organization (WTO)
THE WEEK IN
NUMBERS
KEEPING THE PEACE that the group is to blame for the politicization
of religion in the country. “What would be the
reaction to a political slogan like ‘Christianity
is the solution?,’” asked Nahdet Misr column-
Egypt deadly avian flu, had been tested for working group brought Saudi Arabia ist Ramzi Zaklama in a recent editorial.
the disease in a US Army laboratory
in Cairo. Both birds were found to be
a step closer to joining the WTO on
28 October by approving the terms that
1,000,000
Amount in Egyptian pounds that
After deadly sectarian riots, Copts and Muslims are pointing fingers The ultra-secular left is also blaming the
politicization of religion. Abdel Halim Qandil,
King Tutankhamun was a red wine infected with an avian virus, but not would allow the country to join. The independent candidate for parlia- the editor-in-chief of Nasserist weekly Al

ISSANDR EL AMRANI
drinker, scientists announced on 26 the H5N1 strain. (see story p. 8) WTO’s General Council is expected to ment Mohammed Kamel told Agence Arabi and a leader of the Kifaya movement,
October. Previously, the color of the approve Saudi Arabia’s entry into the France-Presse it costs to secure a gestured to the increasingly political role
pharaoh’s wine was unknown because Al Ahly football club extended its organization on 11 November. nomination for the NDP list. of Pope Shenouda III: “Pope Shenouda III is
it dried out over time, but a team of 50-game unbeaten streak Saturday in not innocent, because he has transformed
Spanish scientists pinpointed an acid a 0-0 draw against ESS Tunisia in the Iranian President Mahmoud 10 the church from a spiritual institution to a
left by compounds in red wine. first round of the African Champions Ahmadinejad said Iran “was not Seats in the parliament filled by presi- political one. The pope has given the impres-
League final. The tournament’s planning an attack against Israel” dential decree. sion that Copts are protected by the person
On 26 October, US authorities deciding match will be played in Cairo on 29 October. The remarks followed of Hosni Mubarak rather than by their citizen-
deported Mohammad Abouhalima, on 12 November. a diplomatic row and censure from 2 ship. Hence the confusion between religion
an Egyptian citizen jailed for eight the UN Security Council caused by the Dead chickens from Kurdistan tested and politics.”
years in the United States for his Iranian president’s earlier call for Israel for bird flu in Cairo. Mohammed Badrashin, an independent MP
role in the 1993 World Trade Center Region to be “wiped off the map.” for a nearby district in Alexandria, suggested
bombing. Six people died in the 2,000 that paranoia about Copts’ political role esca-
bombing and more than 1,000 were At least 30 people were killed in a American soldiers killed in Iraq since lated the crisis. “The US backing of minorities
injured. Abouhalima was convicted in Iraq’s electoral commission on 25 car bomb in Howaider, a predomi- fighting began in 2003. in the Middle East has given the Copts a dif-
May 1997 of trying to help his brother, October announced that Iraqis had nantly Shia city 35 miles north of ferent way of dealing with the majority—it’s
Mahmoud, who had been involved in approved the country’s constitution Baghdad on 30 October. 80,000,000 given them confidence and power,” Badrashin
the bombing, escape to Saudi Arabia. ten days earlier. The 78.59 percent The US dollar value of dates, nuts and said, adding that it was “a minority” of Copts
vote in favor of the draft obscured other traditional iftar staples imported who thought this way.
President Hosni Mubarak appointed heavy opposition in predominantly Business into Egypt this Ramadan. The government’s worst fear, a crisis on
a new army chief of staff on 26 Sunni provinces. the international level, could be looming.
October. Lt. Gen. Sami Anan will The UN Committee on Human Rights’ Special
replace Maj. Gen. Hamdi Wahiba, who Several explosions shook the Kurdish Al Ahram reported on 28 October that Rapporteur on Freedom of Religion, Asma
has held the job for the past four years. city of Suleimaniya in northeast Iraq the cost of this Ramadan’s Omra Jahangir, has requested permission from
Wahiba will now serve as the head of on 25 October. In total, 9 people were pilgrimage trips totaled $2 billion. THE WEEK IN the government to visit Egypt to investigate.
Egypt’s Arab Industrial Authority. killed and 6 injured. The city had previ- Imports of yamish foodstuffs totaled Jahangir, a Pakistani lawyer who recently com-
ously been relatively peaceful. US$80 million, Al Ahram reported. QUOTES ISSANDR EL AMRANI once (over two years ago), was distributed in p State security pleted a report dealing with issues of conver-
President Hosni Mubarak said on 27 the neighborhood to sabotage the candidacy massed outside sion and the religious rights of detainees, is
October that Israel’s demand for Two thousand US soldiers have been Orascom Construction Industry said “The Brotherhood has abandoned of National Democratic Party Candidate Maher Alexandria's Mar highly regarded on the international stage.

A
the disarmament of Palestinian killed in Iraq, Pentagon officials ac- on 26 October it would acquire a districts to all the parties, to the Copts Khilla (one of only two Copts running for the Girgis church—and A few days earlier, Suleiman Gouda, a col-
militants before a resumption of knowledged on 25 October. 30-percent stake in a $540 million and to the Communists, but has party). Khilla announced that he would step the two mosques umnist for the independent daily Al Masri
peace talks could lead to civil war. investment to build Egypt’s first refused to leave Bulaq to me.” s Friday prayers come to an end in down last week in protest at the violence, but that flank it—on 28 Al Youm, suggested that the government’s
He further urged Israel to take steps Iraqi Shia leader Moqtada Al Sadr’s ammonia plant. Other companies —Montasser Al Zayat, lawyer for Al the middle-class Moharram Bey district of was later told by the ruling party leadership October. incompetence in handling the crisis would
to strengthen Palestinian President faction said on 25 October that it include PSK Holdings, Amiral Group Gamaa Al Islamiya and a candidate Alexandria, hundreds of Central Security riot not to run anyway. In a common variant of the encourage foreign intervention. “Aside from
Mahmoud Abbas’ position. backs the Arab League’s proposed and the Egyptian General Petroleum for parliament in Boulaq al Dakrur, police cordon off streets in a four block radius story, one of his rivals in the race (which will the president’s declaration, there has been
conference on national reconcilia- Company. expressing his anger with the Muslim around the two mosques that lie on either side be held on 20 November) distributed the CD to no reaction from the ministries that are con-
On 28 October, the electoral commis- tion in Iraq, but not at the proposed Brotherhood for challenging him in of the church. They allow people to return to incite Muslims against Copts. cerned, or from the prime minister,” Gouda
sion published the final list of 5,414 location, Cairo. “We believe it should During his upcoming visit to Russia, the district. their homes in small groups, blocking every Abdel Fattah says that security forces may wrote, adding that this was tantamount to “an
candidates who will compete for the be held inside Iraq,” Sheikh Al Arji of scheduled for 12 November, Minister part of the normally busy thoroughfare in have participated in the affair, with the goal indirect invitation to Mr. Mehlis to come to
444 parliamentary seats in 222 con- Al Sadr’s Shia faction said. of Foreign Trade and Industry Rashid “Big businessmen are participating neatly aligned rows. They carry gas masks and of blaming the Brotherhood. The Brotherhood Alexandria”—a reference to the UN envoy who
stituencies in the coming elections. Mohammed Rashid will discuss a in this election to a degree unprec- cartridge guns in addition to the standard- has seized the opportunity presented by is investigating Syria’s involvement in the as-
(see elections coverage p. 10) Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon possible free trade agreement edented in any previous election in issue batons and shields. Others wield pump- the sectarian riots to run a candidate in the sassination of former Lebanese Prime Minister
vowed “wide-ranging and cease- between Russia and Egypt. Egypt.” action shotguns. At major intersections and district. Rafik Hariri.
Attorney General Maher Abdel Wahid less” operations against Palestinian —Abdel Ghafar Shokr, a member of in front of the church, light armored vehicles “The Christians go to the state for protec- Coptic groups abroad had warned that
said on 29 October that he was militants on 27 October following Emaar Misr, a subsidiary of Dubai’s the Tegammu Party’s policies com- with gun turrets serve as a nerve center for tion, and then they both spit in our face,” another riot was scheduled for after Friday
dropping the bribery case against a suicide bombing the day before in real-estate development firm Emaar mittee, on the growing influence of plainclothes commanders. There has been no says Abdel Fattah, who says he saw the play prayers on 28 October as well as 1 November,
Ayman Nour for lack of evidence. But Hadera—the first in two months. Properties, signed an agreement businessmen in Egyptian politics. repeat of the 21 October riot that left three and found it insulting. But he says he wants the last day of Ramadan. In a press release
the Ghad leader still faces separate with the Egyptian government on 25 dead and more than 150 injured. to help repair sectarian relations and that distributed to US newspapers, Mounir
charges of forging documents in the President Hosni Mubarak and Syrian October for a $172 million project “I was later suspended from working It was never clear what sparked the previous the governor of Alexandria, Abdel Salem Al Dawoud, the president of the New Jersey-
process of registering his party. President Bashar Al Assad held in the Smart Village outside Cairo. at the Port for three months just week’s riot, but the state seems intent on Mahgoub, had asked him to sit on a “Council based International Christian Union and
surprise talks in Damascus on 28 Emaar Properties will build an exhibi- because I brought in some yoghurt for preventing such events from recurring. In of the Wise” composed of members of differ- American Coptic Association, said Muslims
On 30 October, religious authori- October to discuss a UN report on the tion center, a hotel and apartments. the protesting workers so they could Alexandria, political leaders and ordinary ent religions and political tendencies. were planning “the death of Christians and the
ties at Al Azhar banned a book on killing of the former Lebanese Prime break their fast. Now that I have citizens give widely differing accounts of how But for many others, the Muslim continued destruction of churches throughout
Wahabism. Azhari scholars found Minister Rafik Hariri. State-owned insurance giant Misr been denied access to my work and protests over a play led to violence and death. Brotherhood is part of the problem. Among Egypt.” Dawoud accuses security services of
that Wahabi Islam—From Revival and Insurance Company will sell 80 wages for three months, how am I For Ali Abdel Fattah, a spokesman of the the many rumors surrounding the riot’s cause “giving the green light to the mob” to attack
Reforms to Global Jihad was blasphe- On 28 October, members of the percent of its real estate subsidi- supposed to feed my family and three Muslim Brotherhood and one of the organiza- is the story that a flyer was distributed in the church, while the release says it fears
mous and promoted hatred of Islam. Sliba tribe in Kuwait occupied the ary, Misr Company for Real Estate children?” tion’s leaders in the Mediterranean port city, the neighborhood condemning the play on “impending ethnic cleansing of Christians
The book is an analysis of Mohammed offices of Al Rai TV. They were angry and Tourism Investment, to a strategic —Adel Al Hassri, a non-union employee the violence was the result of political maneu- behalf of the Brotherhood. The flyer report- in Egypt.” The organization will be holding a
bin Abdul Wahab’s work. at televised remarks comedian Daoud investor. The company will accept at the Port of Alexandria who was vers ahead of the parliamentary elections. edly included the group’s slogan, “Islam is the protest outside the United Nations in New York
Hessein calling Saddam Hussein a acquisition bids until 1 December, suspended for helping fellow port According to Abdel Fattah, the CD containing solution.” Some commentators on the affair, City next week. A French Coptic organization
A medical source said on 30 October “dog of the Sliba tribe.” 2005. employees protest the cancellation of a filmed version of the play I Was Blind but even if they don’t think the Brotherhood is was also due to hold a protest in front of the
that two dead chickens from their Eid bonuses. Now I Can See, which was performed only directly responsible for the incident, believe Egyptian embassy in Paris on 31 October. h

6 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 7
news news

MENA
THIS AIN T NO HITCHCOCK MOVIE chicken farmers in Egypt. Ahmed Sayed, the
owner of both a Zamalek fowl store, Tuyur
Gomhorriya, and a chicken farm, estimates that
business has dropped 35 percent. Should bird
TAPPING OUT
flu appear, Sayed says he’ll have no choice but
Egypt braces for bird flu to close shop.
Health officials say the likelihood of wild birds
Egypt’s Olympic golden boy is
contaminating Egypt’s domestic birds is highly
emigrating

TARA TODRAS-WHITEHILL
t If avian flu unlikely. “The country’s privately and publicly
strikes a poultry owned chicken, turkey and quail farms are all
farm, the Ministry indoors,” said Abdelkhaliq Abbas, spokesman MAGDY SAMAAN
of Health plans for the Animal Health Research Centre.
to quarantine and At least one sector is reaping the benefits of

A
decontaminate a the bird flu panic: the pharmaceutical industry
three-mile radius. may see an upswing in demand for vaccines and
antiretroviral drugs. The Ministry of Health’s Al fter experiencing the elation of their first
Sayed said the government is stockpiling antibi- gold medal since 1948—awarded to wrestler
otics and antiretroviral drugs. The government Karam Gaber—Egyptians were shocked by the
had ordered a consignment of Tamiflu, the announcement that Gaber is retiring from the
WHO-recommended vaccine for bird flu, from sport and will go into business with his brothers
the Swiss pharmaceutical company Roche. The after moving to the US.
shipment is expected to arrive by 1 November. Gaber has come under heavy criticism as
There is a worldwide shortage of Tamiflu, a result of the announcement, particularly
however. And the readily available equivalent, after speculation that he is trying to obtain US
Amadine, “does not have any effect on the bird citizenship to compete with the US team in the
flu virus,” according to pharmacist Ahmed upcoming world championships and the 2008
Montassir. While neither drug would cure in- Peking Olympics. Since the 2004 Games in
fluenza, they would reduce symptoms of the Athens, Gaber has traveled to the US and Japan
disease if detected early. Amadine treats influ- to participate in two unofficial championships p Karam Gaber hasn’t resulted in any real reward,” he said. “I which went to lightweight Ibrahim Shamis and
enza A, of which H5N1 is a strain. Amadine is for money, without the knowledge of the wres- (r), says he wasn't have not received the honor due an Olympic featherweight Hamoud Fayyad. At that time, it
available for LE5 in many pharmacies, whereas tling governing body in Egypt. rewarded for gold medal winner. With the passage of time, was the royal anthem.
flu shots such as Vacciflu can be bought for In an interview with Al Bayt Baytak, the helping the NDP everyone forgot the gold medal, so I decided to Gaber won the 96 kilogram gold in 2004 by
CHITRA KALYANI 30,000 fowl died while impounded. LE35. Vaccine shots (especially for the elderly) popular talk show on state television, Gaber take down its travel to America to join the family business.” carrying a powerful performance through his
The government has called off the hunting of are recommended. h objected to the attacks. “My love for my country opponents. Gaber has been bringing in medals for Egypt Olympic matches.
wild birds, and 27 observation posts have been in Arab, African and international championships Gaber was born on 1 September 1979 in a

W
set up along Egypt’s borders to collect statistics since 1997. Throughout that period, Gaber said, working-class home on Nasser Street in the heart

ith the seasonal migration of birds


from Eastern Europe seeking more temperate
about migratory birds, according to the Ministry
of Agriculture. Warnings have been issued to
avoid contact with birds along the North Coast
Nukes and zibda The accusations against ElBaradei were never substantiated, and
were widely attributed to American diplomats who opposed a third
term for ElBaradei as head of the IAEA.
he has planned his own nutritional regimen and
spent a great deal of his own money on the sport.
When he appeared on Egyptian television screens
of Hai Manshiya, one of the oldest and most tra-
ditional residential areas of Alexandria. He com-
pleted his studies at the Technical Commercial
climes, the threat of avian flu looms large in and Fayyoum, among other areas where hunting FREDERIK RICHTER Most independent international analysts suggest that Egypt does after news spread that he was thinking of leaving Institute. He is the sixth of seven brothers and
Egypt. Recent outbreaks of the deadly H5N1 is prevalent. not actively maintain a large-scale nuclear weapons program. Last Egypt and emigrating to the US, he did not deny sisters. h
strain of bird flu have been confirmed in Turkey Ministry of Health officials say there is a February, however, ElBaradei’s IAEA criticized Egypt for failing to that he would compete for another country.
and Romania, and the much-feared virus is national plan to guard against the spread of If Iran succeeds in developing a nuclear weapon, Egypt may decide report experiments that lasted until 2003 at two research reactors He blamed his discontent on the Egyptian
expected to hit Eastern and Sub-Saharan Africa
within weeks, according to the United Nations
Food and Agriculture Association (FAO).
avian flu. Health Minister Mohammed Awad
Tageddin told Akhbar Al Youm on 28 October
that in the event bird flu hits Egypt, infected
to follow suit. That’s the conclusion of a recent report by the London-
based International Institute for Strategic Studies (IISS).
In addition to Egypt, the report says, Saudi Arabia and Turkey are
at Inshas in the Delta. Following inspection tours of Egyptian labo-
ratories, however, the IAEA dismissed speculation about an Egyptian
weapons program. Egypt gave up its nuclear ambitions after its defeat
Wrestling Union. “The group has not paid suf-
ficient attention to me and has spent too little
money to allow me to maintain myself as an
Doping rumors
In developing countries like Egypt, where birds on poultry farms will be killed. also closely monitoring Iran’s alleged nuclear weapons program and by Israel in 1967. Olympic athlete,” he said. He also charged that Karam Gaber’s withdrawal from last month’s
contact with animals is especially frequent, there Dr. Nasr Al Sayed, the Ministry of Health could respond to such a program with similar efforts. IISS director As a consequence, Egypt lost many of its nuclear experts due to the Union had refused to set up a training camp Wrestling World Championships in Hungary may
exists “an ideal breeding ground for the virus,” official responsible for preventative measures John Chipman said on 25 October during the presentation of the a dearth of work opportunities at home. Some of the unemployed for him outside Egypt, which would allow him to have been related to steroid use. The doping ac-
according to FAO Chief Veterinary Officer Dr. against bird flu, told Cairo that areas within IISS’ annual military balance report that if Iran developed a nuclear nuclear scientists joined the Iraqi nuclear weapons program. Egyptian focus on his training. cusations are at the center of an imbroglio that
Joseph Domenech. Bird flu has killed 62 of the three kilometers of an infection will be quar- weapon, “at a very minimum, Egypt, Turkey and Saudi Arabia would expertise also contributed to Iraq’s chemical weapons program, ac- “My principal reason for emigrating and has pitted the Egyptian Olympic Committee
120 people it has infected. Currently, the disease antined and decontaminated. Those infected have to reconsider their positions.” cording to a CIA report on Iraq’s weapons of mass destruction (WMD) retirement is the wrestling union’s mismanage- against the Egyptian Wrestling Union. The in-
can spread only slowly among humans because it will be quarantined immediately, and a vaccine On 8 October, British daily The Guardian cited a report prepared by program. ment of me as an Olympic champion,” Gaber dependent daily Al Masri Al Youm reported on
can only be contracted directly from birds. There will be prepared using the strain found in those the British Secret Service MI5 and titled “Companies and Organizations “During the early years, Egyptian scientists provided consultation, said. “Turmoil in the administration has forced 29 October that the committee had issued a
is a widespread fear, however, that should bird carrying the virus. In the event of the feared of Proliferation Concern.” The report listed more then 360 organiza- technology and oversight allowing rapid advances and technologi- me to shoulder the burden of maintaining this sharp warning to the Wrestling Union after the
flu become endemic in Africa, the virus could pandemic where human-to-human transmission tions, companies, university departments and governmental organiza- cal leaps in weaponization,” the report claims. The report also refers level of training.” latter disregarded the committee’s request to
mutate into a form easily transmittable between takes place, antiviral drugs will be administered tions from eight countries in the Middle East and Asia that have alleg- to Egyptian assistance in the Iran-Iraq war, during which chemical Gaber participated in the publicity campaign hand over the results of an investigation into
humans. The result could be catastrophic, and by the government, though officials say that edly obtained goods or technology for covert arms programs. weapons were used. for President Hosni Mubarak during the presi- allegations that Gaber had used performance-
experts are already drawing comparisons to the such a scenario is unlikely. The majority of the organizations cited are Iran and Pakistan, but the According to the report, Egypt enabled warheads to store chemical dential elections. After the elections, he said, enhancing drugs.
Spanish influenza which killed 25 to 50 million But public awareness even at the highest MI5 report also lists a private Egyptian chemical company “as having agents on a rocket launch system in 1983 and exported Grad rockets, he did not receive the compensation he had Olympic Committee Secretary General Khalid
people from 1918-1919. levels of administration seems insufficient. Dr. procured technology for use in a nuclear weapons programme.” The designed to hold a chemical agent. Iraq also invited Egyptian chemical expected. Zein said that “decisive steps” would be taken
The Egyptian government is taking note. In Ayman Abdel Rahman at Al Salam International MI5 report, prepared two years ago, was meant to be a warning to weapons experts to assist in producing the nerve gas Sarin. That Egypt He is currently preparing to marry the against the union if it refused to divulge the
response to UN bird flu warnings, Egypt banned Hospital’s emergency ward in Maadi said that no British companies against dealing with the listed companies. was able to boost Iraq’s chemical weapon program suggests that Russian woman to whom he has been engaged results of its investigation. These could include
all live poultry imports on 18 October despite in- direct information had been given to hospitals The report became public the day after Mohamed ElBaradei and its own program was quite advanced at that time. Egypt employed to for a month. After the wedding, she will travel referring the matter to the International Olympic
ternational import agreements. Egyptian authori- from government authorities regarding avian the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) were awarded this chemical weapons during its intervention in the Yemeni civil war in with him to the US. Gaber recently declined Committee (IOC). The IOC has the authority
ties quarantined 12,000 turkeys imported from flu. Abdel Rahman said that he and his col- year’s Nobel Peace prize on 7 October. In fall 2004, the French news- the 1960s. a tempting offer to play the leading role in an to strip the union of its drug-testing oversight
Germany in mid-October. These were released leagues have had to educate themselves about paper Liberation published speculations that ElBaradei had covered The Egyptian foreign ministry has denied all links to the Iraqi Egyptian film. privileges. Zein also had harsh words of criticism
after testing negative for bird flu. A cargo of the disease through World Health Organisation up an Egyptian nuclear program. This program was said to have chemical weapons program. It remains to be seen whether Tehran’s When the Egyptian national anthem played for Gaber, who, according to the report, “lost the
ducklings seized by Egyptian civil aviation au- (WHO) press releases. links to the Libyan nuclear program that Egypt’s neighbor officially nuclear ambitions could set in motion a renewed arms race in the at Gaber’s 2004 medal ceremony it was the first enthusiasm of his sympathizers after he became
thorities, however, weren’t so lucky. Half of the The global buzz around bird flu is hurting acknowledged and abandoned in 2004. Middle East. since Egypt’s two weightlifting golds in 1948, obsessed with amassing money.”

8 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 9
elections
news elections
news

SPIRIT OF ‘84 HIGH NOON


This year’s parliamentary elections will be the is both too organized and too intertwined running one of its members against him in the remarks. If the NDP’s reformists are earnest, limited, it can still have an impact from under Son aims to avenge father’s Abbasiya defeat
with state authority to cede its dominant place Giza district of Bulaq Al Dakrour. This was they have yet to prove that they are able to the rotunda.

poll that really counts

TARA TODRAS-WHITEHILL
on the political landscape. But it has formed all the more surprising as the Brotherhood is control the party. Parliament may sometimes be a rubber stamp JOHN EHAB
an opposition front that, warts and all, is the widely reported to have made deals with not This in turn leads to the most important for policies hatched by the executive branch
most impressive coalition built in years and has only opposition parties but also the NDP not to player in the election: the regime itself. Under (or, lately, the NDP’s Policies Secretariat), but it

TARA TODRAS-WHITEHILL
O
overcome ideological and personal differences run in certain districts. assault for the slow pace of reforms from the can also be a pulpit from which politicians of
among most parties. Making inroads in the But the biggest challenge of the election, domestic opposition at home and its most im- all stripes can stand up and be counted. Ayman
People’s Assembly is essential to the opposition paradoxically, is for the NDP. While there portant ally, the United States, abroad, there Nour used his position as an MP to increase his n the streets of
for one simple reason: come the next presiden- is little doubt that it will achieve at least a is considerable pressure to show a real politi- public profile before placing a distant second the poor Weili district
tial election (at the latest 2011), only parties with two-thirds majority (compared to the current cal opening while retaining as much power as in the presidential election. Nour would never of Abassiya, Deputy
at least 25 MPs will be able to field a candidate. 89-percent majority it holds now), this is possible. If the election is marred, as previous have gotten where he is today without the Director of the Wafd
Under current legislation, it will be practically more than enough to control parliament and elections have been, by voter intimidation, many scandals he raised under the rotunda Party Mounir Fakhri
impossible for an independent to run. steer major political decisions. Two-thirds of Egypt could forfeit its claim to be one of the and the occasional grandstanding—which is Abdel Nour is fighting
Chances are that most parties will not make parliament is all that is needed to renew the most progressive Arab states at a time when why the NDP is putting up a fierce fight in his an intense battle to hold
this quota. This will mean that only one or two Emergency Law (should President Mubarak’s the United States is ideologically committed Bab Al Shaariya district, where he is extremely his seat against medical
opposition parties will be able to field a presi- pledge to replace it with an anti-terror law not to the spread of democracy in the region. Even popular. doctor and NDP candi-
dential candidate, or more likely that they will be fulfilled), grant full powers to the executive, though there are question marks over the true The coming election is in many ways remi- date Ahmed Sherin. It’s
band together. Although Cairo has highlighted secure the expulsion of an MP from parliament extent of this commitment, a patently unfair niscent of the one that took place in 1984, at an old family rivalry.
the many internal divisions in the current or pass a constitutional amendment. So the election would likely perpetuate the instabil- the dawn of the Mubarak era. Then, despite a In 1995, and again in
alliance, it remains that opposition parties have question for the NDP is not so much whether ity of the past year—with its constant street proportional-representation system that en- 2000, Abdel Nour ran
at least partly put aside their usual bickering it will win, but rather which of its candidates protests and clashes with security forces—and gineered small parties out of the running, a against Sherin’s father.
and gone to some trouble to coordinate their will win and what that will mean for its much- make a mockery of parliament. Wafd-Muslim Brotherhood alliance managed to Abdel Nour lost in 1995, but won in 2000.
campaigns. Even more important, though, vaunted reform process. Egypt’s main opposition forces, for the first secure 58 seats, the highest number the oppo- With sensitivities about Coptic-Muslim relations running high fol-
would be to start reform at home. The emer- One aspect of the NDP’s attempt to reform time in quite a while, seem to have decided sition has ever gotten. It now seems plausible lowing the recent riots in Alexandria, the country is watching the Weili
gence of the Kifaya movement, the heightened has already been a failure. In the 2000 elec- that parliament deserves to be more than that the opposition could better that score. On campaign closely. In both campaigns, local Coptic leaders allege, the
profile of party offshoots like the neo-Nasserist tions, official NDP candidates won only about a rubber stamp. Even the anarchic Kifaya 13 December, when parliament reopens for elder Sherin unleashed a volley of sectarian propaganda against Abdel
Karama and the neo-Islamist Al Wasat parties, 38 percent of seats, while 51 percent of winning movement is dedicated to entering the politi- business, it could have its most diverse com- Nour. The combination of family rivalry and the specter of sectarian
and Ayman Nour’s rise in popularity through candidates were NDP members who ran as in- cal mainstream rather than staying outside it. position yet—and that is why naysayers are division make this race a sensitive contest.
sheer charisma have shown what new blood can dependents and later returned to the fold to This is because the opposition should know wrong to be as apathetic about this election as Abdel Nour was one of only three Copts elected to parliament in
do to opposition politics. form the current 89-percent majority. Despite that even if parliament’s field of action is they were about the presidential one. h 2000. This time around, the NDP will run only one Coptic candidate, but
For the Muslim Brotherhood, which is part of constant threats from the party leadership, the opposition National Front is running 13. Kamal Al Shazli, a senior
the opposition front but is not coordinating its a very similar scenario is likely to unfold this member of the NDP’s Policy Committee who boasts of being the longest-
candidates with other parties, the next election
could be the biggest boost to its political profile
in two decades. For the first time since 1995,
time around. This will not threaten the hold
of the party on parliament, but it will weaken
the ideological grip that the NDP’s new leader-
The election at a glance Parliament after the 1995 elections: serving MP in the world, has said during past campaigns that to put a
Copt on the NDP list is to risk losing a seat.
Ghad Party candidate Sameh Mahrous, also a Copt, is running a distant
there are no Muslim Brotherhood members ship, headed by Gamal Mubarak, has tried to third. Some here speculate Al Ghad chose a Copt to run against Abdel
in jail only a week before polling starts. The impose over the past few years. For now, the Five thousand, four hundred and fourteen Nour in an attempt to siphon votes away from the rival Wafd Party and
Brotherhood is fielding three times as many NDP remains mostly a party of opportunists, candidates will compete for 444 seats in the to build on their success in Abassiya in the September presidential elec-
candidates as it did in 2000 and is campaigning more interested in the access to the state appa- People’s Assembly in either the fiaat (pro- tions. Voters in the district returned roughly 1,000 votes for Ayman Nour
openly under its own name. Its leader, Mahdi ratus that membership offers than in the fancy fessional) or umal (worker) category. This in September, compared with just 168 for the Wafd’s Noman Goma.
Akef, says he expects as many as 70 seats in program dreamt up by the Policies Secretariat. distinction is a holdover from the Nasserist Sherin, the NDP challenger, says he is committed to the NDP program
ISSANDR EL AMRANI p Young Turk the next parliament. That claim may be too As prominent Al Ahram commentator Salama era, when it was put in place to ensure of reform laid out during the presidential election. He was elected to
Hossam Badrawi ambitious, but unless massive arrests or fraud Ahmed Salama noted in a recent column, should more representation for the lower classes. n NDP: 317 the local neighborhood council in 2003 and has a base of support in the
faces Hisham mar the elections, a group that has had many the NDP accept the return of its members who Today, the lines are blurred and many umal n Independents who joined NDP: 114 district. He is working to undermine Abdel Nour’s credibility, portraying

W
Mustafa Khalil in obstacles in previous races will find itself vir- ran as independents against the will of the candidates are wealthy businessmen. A call n Independents: 13 the Wafd Party businessman as an absentee parliamentarian who has
the race for Qasr tually unhindered—apart from the fact that it party leadership, it “will risk the credibility of to abolish the current system was met with neglected his district’s interests since elected to parliament for the first
hen the country’s first presidential Al Nil's seat in remains illegal. the party.” uproar earlier this year. time in 2000.
election took place on 7 September, the outcome parliament. One of the most interesting aspects of the A related question is whether the “old vs. In addition to the 444 seats that will be up Parliament after the 2000 elections: The program appears to be working. “[Abdel Nour] always said ‘my
was both simple and unsurprising. There could election, however, is that for the first time since new guard” disputes that have marked the last for grabs, an additional 10 seats will be filled door is open,’ but he was never there,” Abdel Tawab, an elderly Weili
be only one winner and it was already quite clear the 1970s new Islamist movements are actually four years in the NDP will continue. Some NDP by presidential decree. Traditionally, these resident, told Cairo.
that it would be Hosni Mubarak. Even though being allowed, if not encouraged, to run. The insiders are lamenting the fact that key old seats have gone to Copts and women—two Abdel Nour’s own political missteps haven’t helped his image. During
history was being made in that there had never Muslim Brotherhood’s current domination of po- guard figures are still at the helm of electoral groups that this election are again disap- a recent radio program he asked the residents of his district to “stop the
been a multi-candidate election—or opposition litical Islam was not always so. From the 1930s politics. Kamal Al Shazli, the party’s parlia- pointed by their representation on official noise.” According to his own account of the interview, Abdel Nour says
campaigns in which other candidates took on through the 1970s, other groups competed mentary powerbroker, is practically guaran- party lists. he told the interviewer that “having worked for Weili and the parliament
the incumbent—the excitement was more in with it for the “religious vote.” This year, can- teed re-election in his hometown of Bagour. It More than 1,600 candidates will stand in for the past five years, he would like to have five minutes rest with a ‘no
the process than in the outcome. didates affiliated with Al Gamaa Al Islamiya, a will mark his forty-second year in parliament. the first round of voting. Of these, 523 will noise’ sign on his office.”
The opposite is true for the three-round popular Islamist movement that took up terror- It’s not surprising to find Hossam Badrawi, be running in the greater Cairo area. Four Abdel Nour admits that he has not always been visible in his electoral
parliamentary election that will take place in ism in the 1980s, are running as independents, an MP for the central Cairo district of Qasr hundred thirty-two of the candidates running n NDP: 174 district. “If ‘presence in the district’ means that I sit with people in coffee
November and December. While the campaigns in addition to moderate Islamists from the Al Al Nil—who is facing a strong challenge from for seats from Cairo are running as independ- n Independents who joined NDP: 216 shops playing backgammon, I apologize—that’s not my duty,” Abdel
currently underway have offered just a few sur- Wasat movement. The most prominent of these Hisham Mustafa Khalil, a fellow NDP member ents, but many of them are members of the n Independents: 20 Nour told Cairo. “I think the role of a public official is solving the overall
prises so far, this election could make a differ- candidates, former Gamaa Islamiya member who is running as an independent—quoted in NDP who were not selected as the party’s n Muslim Brotherhood: 17 problems of the country, not giving private services to supporters.”
ence for the future of political reform in Egypt. (and Ayman Zawahiri cellmate) Montasser the 26 October edition of Al Masri Al Youm as official candidates. Of the 1,600 competing n Legal opposition: 17 Abdel Nour says that during his time in parliament he supported laws
The opposition is taking things seriously. Al Zayat, a lawyer who specializes in Islamist saying that the party’s leadership was “sacri- in the first round, only 82 are registered with to encourage foreign investment by relaxing state control over economic
There is little chance that it will defeat the cases, has already blasted the Brotherhood for ficing reform and reformists on the pretext of a legal opposition party. Source: Egypt Almanac policy. This program of economic liberalization, he said, would create
ruling National Democratic Party (NDP), which trying to “monopolize the Islamist scene” and regime survival.” Badrawi later disavowed the jobs, which he sees as the greatest challenge facing Egypt today. h

10 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 11
stand
news
election news
elections

FREE SHOES young man who is going to do a lot for Bab Al

w d
Shaariya. Ayman Nour serves only those who

c r o
follow him,” says Osama Al Toukhi a fatatri

the
(Egyptian pastry maker). “Wahdan is from Bab

f r o m
Al Shaariya, while Nour is not.”
Battle for Bab Al Shaariya gets dirty as Ayman Nour takes on an ex-state security officer

ou t
Wahdan, the son of a former MP from the
same district, was a state security officer until
he resigned to run against Ayman Nour in
JOHN EHAB 2000. He lost that race and returned to work
as a public prosecutor until this year, when he
resigned again to seek revenge for his 2000

A
defeat.
Along Port Said Street, a banner for Wahdan
n old woman hurries into Ayman reads: “Yehia Wahdan—Native Son.” Opposite,
Nour’s well-known headquarters in Midan Bab a Nour banner lies discarded on the pavement,
Al Shaariya howling: “Hey everyone, they’re footprints muddying the once glistening
pulling down Nour’s big banner next to the orange banner. Pointing at Nour’s banner,
kebab place.” Hagga Hamida was on her way Wahdan campaign manager Emad Shami says,
back from the hospital when she witnessed a unprompted, “That was a result of natural
young man taking down the banner. “I would causes.”
have beaten him if I’d had the chance,” the “Ayman Nour is a successful media man,
Nour supporter says defiantly. but he markets only himself, nothing else,”
In Nour’s parliamentary election campaign Shami says, but admits that, as the incumbent,
center, banners torn down in the streets are Nour has a better chance in the elections.
brought in regularly. “When we have objected, Shami pauses mid-sentence and calls out to a
police officers have sided against us,” Mahmoud woman, a Wahdan supporter, passing by. He
Al Nahas, the district director for Nour’s gives her a brand new pair of shoes from a
campaign, says. Nour’s campaign workers are stockpile, a token of appreciation, he says, for
full of stories about threats against them and her support.
an atmosphere of fear shadowing Nour sup- New shoes or otherwise, petty political
porters. paybacks are quite commonplace in this
“Every day I hear NDP supporters threaten- district. “Nour spoiled many young men in
ing me, saying I can be detained or fired from Bab Al Shaariya by giving them a monthly
my job. I know they can do nothing to me,” salary just in exchange for supporting him,”
says Tamer Abdel Wadoud, a physician and Shami adds. He also showed Cairo a pile

TARA TODRAS-WHITEHILL
Nour supporter. Others display injureis which of job applications that the NDP candidate
they say are from encounters with thugs from had collected from supporters. The applica-
their opponent’s campaign. tions had been passed on to the Minister of
Outside Nour’s campaign center and Finance, Youssef Boutros Ghali, and at the
throughout Midan Bab Al Shaariya, the majority bottom of each was a written confirmation
of banners bear the name of the district’s NDP that the applicants had been hired in a tax
p Campaign banners have been casus belli in Bab Al Shaariya. candidate, Yehia Wahdan. “Wahdan is a nice agency. h

Dueling Islamists in Bulaq campaign is pitching him as a protector of national unity.


At an Al Zayat press conference, a representative of the
Wafd announced that “the Wafd supports national unity,
to all the parties, to the Copts and to the Communists,
but has refused to leave Bulaq to me.”
The Muslim Brotherhood has organized a number
MAGDY SAMAAN and Montassir Al Zayat does not distinguish between of marches in the district so far, gathering thousands of
Copts and Muslims.” supporters in the streets with banners reading “Islam is
Recent events, however, have belied these state- the solution,” the Brotherhood’s controversial election
It’s predictable that the principal competition in the ments. Al Zayat has adopted the slogan “Yes, we want it slogan.
parliamentary elections will be between the National Islamic.” He is stressing his commitment to Islamic sharia Running against the two sparring Islamists is Kamal
Democratic Party and the opposition. The district of law, and his opposition to changing the second article of Abu Attiya, the well-known leftist activist. Abu Attiya’s
Bulaq, however, is witnessing a different phenomenon the constitution, which says that sharia is the principle leftist credentials are solid. He is a member of the
entirely. In this sprawling district of illegal slums, the source of legislation. He says Egypt needs a candidate Karama Party, Kifaya, the Revolutionary Socialists and the
primary competition is between powerful opposition committed to the idea of change and reform, and not a National Front for Change. Often dubbed the muezzin of
candidates. candidate co-opted by the government. the revolution, Abu Attiya has long been a thorn in the
Bulaq Al Dakrour is a big district that includes parts Copts aside, Al Zayat will have to struggle for the government’s side. He has been at the helm of many
of Al Haram, Al Omrani and the rural Kafr Al Tuhurmos. Islamic vote as well. The Muslim Brotherhood’s decision demonstrations during the past 30 years, and has been
More than 50 candidates are competing for the votes of to run a candidate against Al Zayat has rankled the imprisoned some 15 times.
the district’s 130,000 low-income residents. Islamist lawyer, who reportedly worked tirelessly to Abu Attiya is among the public figures whom the
In most electoral districts, the opposition alliance convince the Brotherhood to leave the district to him. government would least like to see in parliament. This
has agreed to run a single candidate. Not so in Bulaq. Despite his efforts, he Muslim Brotherhood is running fact has raised questions about the Wafd’s decision to
Opposition wrangling has left the district open to outsider Gamal Ashri, a powerful candidate who has worked in support Al Zayat over Abu Attiya. Some observers say the
for advertising contact Montassir Al Zayat, a lawyer for Al Gamaa Al Islamiya and Bulaq for years, and who the Brotherhood says is capable move reeks of Wafdist collusion with the government.
a member of the Lawyers’ Syndicate leadership council. of garnering a seat in parliament for the Brotherhood. The NDP candidate in Bulaq will be Ahmed Samih

Michael Emad
Al Zayat has lived in Bulaq for more than 20 years and, “The Brotherhood does not want anyone but them- Galal Darwish, the current MP who, as an independ-
to the dismay of many, has received the endorsement selves to speak in the name of Islam, but Islam is for all ent in 2000, beat the NDP’s candidate Mohammed
of the liberal Wafd Party. The Wafd’s support will help Al the people,” Al Zayat said during a press conference on Hassan. Samih, however, joined the NDP shortly after

TEL: 010 171 1408 Zayat gain the support of Coptic voters, and Al Zayat’s 27 October. “The Brotherhood has abandoned districts his victory.

12 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 memad@cairomagazine.com ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 13
business
news business
news

ON THE WATERFRONT Port Workers’ Union Council went on hunger


strike from 25-26 October to protest the deal.
Port security forces forcibly ejected these
MONEY, POWER AND date lists of the NDP, the Wafd and the Ghad
Party are filled with millionaires.”
Egypt’s emerging cadre of super-wealthy
The race in many districts has come down
to a spending match between competing mil-
lionaires. In Maadi, NDP business tycoon

Thousands of Alexandrian dockworkers protest canceled Eid bonus


four and a fifth, non-unionized worker from
the Union Council’s headquarters in the Port
on 25 October.
Yousef, in Alexandria Port Authority Decree
PARLIAMENT businessmen is beginning to seek formal po-
litical clout to match their informal influence.
A parliament with more businessmen would
shape the direction of economic reform and
Mohammed Al Murshidi faces independent
but NDP-affiliated candidate Akmal Khourtem,
who chairs an oil company. Hossam Badrawi
is running in Downtown’s Qasr Al Nil district
1231/2005, temporarily barred the five from facilitate the government’s accelerating, but against Hisham Moustafa Khalil, nephew
entering the Port and barred the four union
members from participating in the union.
Businessmen dominate this year’s parliamentary controversial, privatization program. For some
in the opposition, it also raises the possibility
of former Prime Minister Moustafa Khalil.
Badrawi owns a hospital and several healthcare
Their names are posted at every entrance to
the Port.
candidate lists of conflict of interest.
Signs of big business’ growing political in-
businesses. He is a close associate of Gamal
Mubarak.
Abdel Razeq, calling Yousef’s actions fluence first emerged during the presidential The construction and agricultural industries
“dictatorial,” charged the new port chief with election, when the Mubarak campaign was feature prominently in the coming races. Hani
violating the terms of its international treaty able to stretch the LE10 million spending limit Sorour, Mostapha Saleb and Mohammed Abul Al
commitments to freedom of assembly. “He thanks to massive volunteer spending on signs Ainen, three ceramics magnates, are running. Of
has neither the authority nor the jurisdiction and advertising by businessmen throughout the three, Al Ainen is likely the most powerful:
to prevent us from working or to freeze our the country. his company, Ceramica Cleopatra, maintains
membership in the union.” Competition for the NDP’s nomination in the 12 factories and has expanded into agriculture,
Adel Al Hassri, a non-unionized port 2005 parliamentary elections has been hard tourism and the production of “smart cards.”
employee, said, “At first I was relocated from fought. A whopping 2,700 people vied for only Youssef Wali, the former minister of agricul-
the Port of Alexandria to the underdeveloped 444 candidate slots. Few know what criteria go ture and a major landowner, is running in Al
Port of Al Dekheila, which we port employees into the selection process, which remains the Fayoum.
consider to be our Abu Ghraib, along with 15 purview of NDP powerbroker Kamal Al Shazli. The individual candidacy system has made
other employees. These punitive relocations Some on the outside believe that a simple cash candidates more dependent “on their own
are Yousef’s attempts to bring the workers donation is often the surest way to ensure the money or familial and tribal affiliations for
to heel. I was later suspended from working NDP nominates you to be their candidate in any success,” Al Ahram columnist Salama Ahmed
at the port for three months just because I given district. Salama says. “The old list system put the
brought in some yogurt for the protesting Mohammed Kamel, who is running as an in- funding pressure more on parties, and less on
workers so they could break their fast. Now dependent against Al Shazli in Menoufiya, told individuals.”

MENA
that I have been denied access to my work and Agence France Presse that it costs an average Rich candidates can use their fortunes to
MENA

wages for three months, how am I supposed of LE1 million to be selected as a candidate for pay for campaign posters, public conferences,
to feed my family and three children? This is FREDERIK RICHTER p Kamal Al Shazli the NDP. “The sum is in cash and to be paid to flyers, presents for voters or simple cash
JANO CHARBEL striking. “If any of us had gone on strike, we p During a protest entirely unjust.” has a lot to do with the party,” he told the wire service. bribes.
would have been arrested,” Abdel Razeq said. of off-duty workers Faced with these allegations, Ibrahim who gets to run for Many businessmen are drawn to parliament “Many of these businessmen have been

W
“It was Ibrahim Yousef, the new administra- on 23 October, it Yousef responded, “I am the chief and the parliament under by patriotism or a desire for prestige. Others formed through corruption, not by produc-

N
tive chief of the Port, who ordered the cancel- was business as primary authority in this port. I know what’s the NDP banner. might appreciate the legal immunity from pros- ing for their countries,” says Ghafar Shokr.
lation of our Eid bonuses. It was also Yousef usual for their on- best for the Port and for its well-being. If I let ith the final candidate lists prepared ecution that serving in parliament bestows. Still “They got their wealth illegally in most cases,
early 3,000 of the 4,000 workers who who fabricated and disseminated information duty colleagues. the workers do whatever they feel like doing, and a picture emerging of what Egypt’s next others might see benefits in influencing legisla- in smuggling, on the black market or through
keep the Port of Alexandria running con- regarding our so-called ‘strike’ and the result- there will be chaos. I’m sick and tired of all parliament could look like, the Left is declaring tion that will affect their business interests. currency speculation. They are not productive
gregated to protest the cancellation of their ing losses of LE2 million.” this harmful unionism.” the dawn of the rule of big business in Egypt. “The society is turning capitalist, so the role capitalists like those in Japan, Malaysia and
annual Eid bonus on 23 October. Contrary to The leftist Al Tagammu was the only local Abdel Razeq maintains union activity at “Big businessmen are participating in this of the capitalists in politics is growing,” Ghafar Europe.”
reports aired on satellite stations, however, newspaper to cover the protest. A spokes- the port need not be harmful. “We have three election to a degree unprecedented in any Shokr said. “They are turning their wealth into One suspects that Ghafar Shokr won’t
the workers did not go on strike. woman for the Center for Trade Unions and demands: recognition of our right to engage previous election in Egypt,” said Abdel Ghafar political power. They are not merely individu- be seeing many big contributions from the
“There was no strike, but rather a large Workers’ Services told Cairo, “The official in unionism, payment in full of our Eid allow- Shokr, a Tegammu Party leader. “The candi- als, they are a class that has joint interests.” business elite in the coming elections. h
workers’ protest,” said Ibrahim Abdel Razeq, media does not cover workers’ protests unless ances... and the reversal of the decision to
a suspended member of the Alexandria Port opposition papers bring the issue to light. If suspend all five employees from work. We sent
Workers’ Union Council. “The 3,000 workers and when the official media does cover such an emergency appeal to President Mubarak
who were protesting were not on duty—the issues, it almost always portrays workers in requesting his intercession, but received no
nearly 1,000 workers who were continued with a negative light, describing them as trouble- reply. We also sent a telegram requesting
their work as usual. Tugboats moved ships makers or lawbreakers.” the intervention of our parent union—the
into port, and workers continued loading and On 24 October, the Ministry of Maritime Transport Workers’ Federation—but
unloading goods. There wasn’t even a slow- Transportation intervened in the dispute, we were again let down. We have appealed to
down.” striking a deal whereby workers would receive the general prosecutor and we are confident
Unified Labor Law 12/2003 and Prime two-thirds of their traditional Eid allowances in that we will prevail. But in the meantime,
Ministerial Decree 1185/2003 forbid workers exchange for ending the demonstrations. Four how are the suspended workers to feed their
employed in “strategic enterprises” from out of the 10 men who sit on the Alexandria families?” h

stocks for the week of


16 - 20 October
r TOP FIVE BY WEEKLY TURNOVER rTURNOVER 24 OCTOBER 31 OCTOBER
CURRENCY
STOCK WEEK % ∆ PRICE LE TURNOVER LE MIL. TIME PERIOD HCMI INDEX % ∆ US Dollar 5.79 5.80
EFG-Hermes Holding 16.41 78.54 549.329 1 Week -2.13 Euro 6.92 6.99
Arab Cotton Ginning 16.03 15.27 491.204 Pound Sterling 10.24 10.28
90 Days 15.20
Orascom Telecom -6.26 556.49 327.669 Japanese Yen (100) 5.00 5.01
52 Weeks 142.91
Orascom Construction Ind. -2.03 200.09 224.271 Saudi Riyal 1.54 1.55
ALEzz Steel Rebars 6.94 58.73 198.882 Total Turnover LE3.11 bil. Gold (oz.) 2,709 2,744

14 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 15
opinion
news opinion
news
F RO M T H E
D R I V E R ' S S E AT
B U L L P E N
The air in Alexandria has been charged with sectarian strife lately.

How To Combat Extremism in Egypt After the riots, some blamed the Christians at the Mar Girgis church
and Islamist leaders, while others suspect that shadowy political
forces were at work. Cairo polled the city’s taxi drivers, asking for their
HASSAN ELSAWAF opinion on the riots and whether the government could have done
more to prevent them.

Essam El-Eryan is a resolute man. He does not possess the charisma that I don’t know what happened with all these fights and demonstrations. We are one
would appeal naturally to millions, for he represents a movement that people living in the same country. We have never believed in discrimination on a
many repudiate instinctively. Yet he cannot be accused of hypocrisy or religious basis. I think that everyone is under pressure, and this is the reason for
sycophancy, traits abundantly present in his opponents. He has done time all the fights, in every field, not only religion. There are many fights in politics and
in defence of his views and has never wavered. He is one of the leading even sports, all because people are stressed, not because of religion.
figures in the infamous Muslim Brotherhood Organisation, touted as the Anwar, 24
most serious threat to Egypt’s future and brainwashing millions into the Second job: Car electrician “Strange... I can’t find any news in the sports section about the Zamalek Club.” “What’s the penalty for stealing in Ramadan,
“It’s Mortada Mansour, God bless him... Ever since he got there, Zamalek’s news has been in the police blotter.” while I’m fasting, good sir?”
torpor of denouncing the mere mention of the word ‘democracy’. From Al Ahly Club (Nasr City) to Hurriya Mall, Al Ahram Street (Heliopolis), LE5
Muslim fundamentalism, or any extreme movement, is not a cap- The car: Sahin with bobblehead dogs Al Destour, 31 October 2005 Rose Al Youssef, 31 October 2005
tivating path to walk in the quest for a better life. Little can be found to
defend ideas based on bigoted ideology and the belief that religion must I don’t know what will happen to us after this. We have Christian neighbors, friends
trespass into the political arena. No open-minded person is happy with and brothers everywhere. I believe that all of this happened for reasons related to
the notion that people can be ruled by an antiquated set of rules intolerant the next parliamentary election. I would bet that the two guys competing in that
“To make sure that the elections are fair [naziha],
to the norms and needs of modern society. Nonetheless, extreme Islam is parliamentary district are a Muslim and a Christian. I think that the best thing the
we’re running Aunt Naziha!!””
making profound inroads in Egypt and appears to have swayed millions government can do is to ban both from the next election. The banner reads: “Elect your aunt Naziha as NDP
away from rational thinking and the practical way of coexisting with an Mahmoud, 43 candidate! Symbol: The club”
increasingly competitive and hardy world. From Al Abbasiya to Roxi (Heliopolis), LE2.50
Al Wafd, 31 October 2005
If we are left persuaded that we would be far better off without the The car: Citroen AX
likes of Mr. Eryan in our midst, we must calmly debate how to render him
insignificant. To my mind, there are two ways. I think this is an extension to the tense situation between Muslims and Christians The soldier reads from the “Iraq Occupation Script”
The first is to listen to our government and go after him tooth and nail. after the conflict that happened a few months ago in Abbasiya. Also, the newspapers while rushing toward Syria.
Our astute authorities would have us believe that tolerance of such dan- are using the issue as a hot topic for their cover stories, to get people to buy them.
Al Osboa, 31 October 2005
gerous men is a short cut to another Taliban Afghanistan. Allowing Mr. Ahmed Mansour, 41
Eryan and his ilk access to the masses through open debate and healthy From Midan Salah Eddin (Heliopolis) to Hadaiq Al Qobba, LE4
intellectual intercourse are methods depicted as suicidal by our learned The car: Mazda
regime. Indeed, the mere sign of showing weakness or any sign of capitu-
lating is tantamount to opening the floodgates of hell. Or so our military Everyone knows that the government can do more to end this sort of thing. Firstly, “Since you insist on naming the baby “Asfur” [bird],
rulers would like us to think. they can find out who exactly provoked people and helped to spread rumors. Bird flu: it’ll be necessary for you to bring me a certificate
Before we deal with the second way, let us look at the first at a deeper Then, they can punish him in a public court, as an example to anyone who might “How’s it goin’ today, little duckling?” from two officials that they’re free of the bird flu
level. In the search for arguments to defend an establishment that has try to repeat such acts for political or personal reasons. Egyptians are a peaceful “Don’t call me duckling!” virus.” The desk reads “Civil Records.”
done nothing but persistently pull Egypt down in every field, regime sup- community and they don’t usually have these kinds of fights unless they are Al Akhbar, 30 October 2005 Al Arab, 30 October 2005
porters have become desperate. Protecting the fortress from the insane strongly provoked.
onslaught of seventh century warriors seems to be the last straw. Simply Ahmed Abdel Salam, 25
by being party in this contentious matter of how Egypt is fit to be ruled
w h e r e t o g e t
From Sherif Street (Downtown) to Imbaba, LE6
disqualifies any regime member or supporter from the right to influence The car: Peugeot 405
the outcome. It is a flagrant conflict-of-interest situation. As for the ‘Taliban’
R
apocalyptic scenario, it is up to the people of Egypt, relishing growing doses
of media and political space, to determine whether a population of intel-
If the play [about a Christian who converts to Islam, staged in a Church in 2003]
really insults the Prophet Mohammed, then we should do something about it. But
O

UT
u
ligent, educated individuals would yield to more tyranny and oppression. if not, we should punish those who told people such lies. Mohandiseen
The second means of dealing with Mr. Eryan and his followers is through

IB
Sebai, 63
opening up the system and striving to make the masses absorb the gist of From Abbas Al Aqqad Street (Nasr City) to CityStars Mall, LE2.50 uMadbouli El Sagher
Zamalek

D DISTR
the extremists’ message. Democracy, and the freedom that comes with it, The car: Fiat 124 uTrianon
will go a long way in persuading millions of disenfranchised Egyptians that uVolume One
uArabica
the way to a better life is not through Islamic extremists, and that the only The government can do a lot on this issue. First, they can stop the discrimination
uCilantro Heliopolis
reason they are there and growing is the absence of that very democracy. between Muslims and Christians, especially in police stations. When there is a uZamalek Bookstore
It is the way of stability and justice that will dilute extremism, not detention regular fight between a Muslim and a Christian, the Muslim stays in the station for uRomancia Bookshop uHarris Café
and torture. a few days but the Christian leaves right away. Second, the government should uTabasco uEveryman’s
The very charges being levelled at Mr Eryan and his supporters -mem- find out who is telling people lies to incite them to violence. uEuro Deli uArmando Café
bership in an illegal organisation, “influencing public opinion against the uAUC Bookstore

RE
Sayyed, 37 uCilantro
regime” and organising illegal protests- add legitimacy to his cause through Second job: teacher uDrinkie’s (delivery only)
the brazen illegality in them. From Imbaba to Ramsis, LE6 uNo Big Deal Maadi

U
Mr. Eryan and his movement are welcome additions to the Egyptian uOrangette
uGold’s Gym

T
political scene, not due to my belief in their ideas, but through my convic- I’ll tell you just one thing. If the government and the police hadn’t wanted it to
Downtown

A
uKimo Market
tion that they add another dimension to the political picture and expose happen, it wouldn’t have happened in the first place.
uVolume One

FE
the dangerous ideas engendered by a moribund regime. Name withheld, 27 uAUC Bookstore uMasoud Market
From Makram Ebeid Street (Nasr City) to St. Fatima Square (Heliopolis), LE6 uOum El Donia Bookstore uAl Greco
helsawaf@cairomagazine.com The car: Renault Dacia that weaved frightfully uCilantro uDrinkie’s (delivery only)
AHMAD ABOUL-WAFA

16 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 17
news
in-depth news
in-depth

BEN HUBBARD
Over the past decade, a security mentality
has made inroads on campuses.
Now, some professors are fighting back.
BEN HUBBARD Inani demanded an investigation from the the police,” said Inani, explaining the growing But in reality, these candidates must also p The 9 March subjects that can be studied and the opinions
university president, but the administration interest in university independence. “The be approved by State Security before their group protesting that can be expressed are tightly controlled.
dragged its feet. When Inani’s persistence police have the upper hand, and the univer- appointments can be finalized. According 9 on the steps of the “We have grown to know that we must keep

P
finally got him an investigation, he learned that sity administration merely listens to them and March members, there are currently four cases Cairo University away from certain subjects,” said Adil Inani.
the officer would not be questioned because carries out their orders.” at the University of Alexandria and one at the administration “And the result is that most of the topics we
rof. Adil Inani is a tall, thin man with he was not a university employee, and was University of Al Minya in which the appoint- building, on 22 research are worthless and the outcome is
a salt-and-pepper goatee and a calm, confi- therefore not accountable to the university. Security Interference ment of nominees has been blocked because October. obviously worthless, too. It’s always better to
dent voice that manages to both comfort and And when the investigation began, according In October 2003, a group of professors at of security concerns. study the there and then than the here and
command attention. He graduated from the to Inani, “It turned out that I was the one who Egyptian universities formed the University Professors must also get security clearance now. Other people’s systems, not ours. Other
English department of Ain Shams University would be questioned and investigated. The Independence Action Group, better know as if they wish to travel, conduct research or people’s rules, not ours. For example, if you
in 1975 and has been teaching in the same lawyer was dealing with me as if I had commit- the “9 March Group,” after the day in 1932 receive guest speakers on campus. In the past want to look at the ruling system, you can look
department ever since. ted some crime.” when Ahmed Lotfi Al Sayyed resigned as two years, security has rejected invitations to at Sadat and Nasser and say whatever you like.
As a result of his many years at the uni- While few others have been exposed to such president of King Fouad University (now prominent media figure Hamdi Qandil, the But you can’t do research on Mubarak, unless
versity, Inani feels an emotional attachment extreme violence, Inani and a growing number Cairo University) to protest the government’s American scholar Norman Finkelstein and you plan to say he’s the best man there is.”
to it. He has many faculty friends and lots of of his colleagues at different universities see transfer of Taha Hussein off campus. Since novelist Baha Taher, among others. Members
memories associated with the campus, and his conflict with the security apparatus on then, the 9 March Group has worked for of 9 March complain that they cannot even Security vs. Administration
considers the university “a place where I can campus as representative of the increasing greater university independence through oc- invite professors from other universities to According to Leila Soueif, an active 9 March
serve the people I belong to.” His salary alone interference of State Security with university casional public demonstrations and, more visit their classes without security clearance. member who has taught mathematics at
isn’t enough to keep him there—he teaches affairs. On 22 October, 150 professors dem- frequently, letter-writing campaigns and “This is our work, our profession,” said Dr. Cairo University since 1977, State Security
in Saudi Arabia when he needs money—but onstrated on the steps of Cairo University’s behind-the-scenes negotiations with univer- Nadiha Dos, a professor of French Linguistics has always operated on campus, though its
he stays because he feels a sense of duty and administration building, calling for university sity administrators. at Cairo University. “In any respectable uni- influence over matters not directly related to
because, he says, he can’t picture himself independence. Many student groups have also The members of 9 March list various ways versity, you should have respectable people security has grown over the past decade.
anywhere else. taken up the cause, foremost among them the in which State Security interferes with uni- coming to give lectures. The good university is Soueif points out that the mere presence of
Inani’s devotion to the university was student branches of the Muslim Brotherhood. versity affairs, such as the selection of junior open to the world.” State Security on campus is a violation of the
tested last November when he was beaten On 11 October, 15,000 students demonstrated academic staff. According to university rules, The result of this security interference, University Law of 1979, which stipulates that
up on campus by a police officer for driving at Cairo University, carrying banners that read junior staff members are selected by their which the members of 9 March say is aimed each university is responsible for establishing
down a lane reserved for officers’ cars. He was “Together for Reform: Free University, Free departments and presented to the university at professors and students who participate in its own security department, with guards that
DANA SMILLIE

punched, kicked, insulted, his shirt was torn Country.” president based solely on their grades. The opposition political or religious activities, is wear uniforms, carry badges and are account-
and he suffered cuts on his face and legs. “The university is actually being run by best students get nominated. a stifled academic environment, in which the able to the university administration.

18 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 19
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in-depth

sity administrators are appointed ensures “But watch out, sometimes Baha Taher has
that their loyalties are to the government some liberal ideas. And we have a problem
and its security apparatus, not to the profes- here [in Egypt]. He’s too liberal. There’s the
sors and their academic concerns. University religious fundamentalist, and there’s the one
presidents are appointed directly by the state. who wants to permit everything. He’s a bit
They in turn appoint the deans of the various outside of the system. So those two are dan-
faculties, who are responsible for choosing the gerous. But the moderates, they get in without
department heads. Traditionally, the oldest any problem.” Taher did not specify who quali-
professor in the department was selected as fies as a moderate.
department head. Now, the members of 9 He then summed by saying that the admin-
March say that security concerns often inter- istration has to control speech on campus
vene, keeping faculty members with divergent because large numbers of students are diffi-
views, or those who participate in opposition cult to control.
political activities, out of power. “When you have a place with a large number
This has not always been the case. Prior of students, you have to protect it. And what if
to 1994, the full professors of a given faculty chaos breaks out? People don’t realize that. We
elected that faculty’s dean. But in 1994, this have, for example, 3,500 seats in the hall down-
procedure changed and the university president stairs. 3,500! And what if someone comes to
gained the power to appoint the deans. This talk to them and gets them all fired up? They’ll
meant the professors no longer had a say in get up and break up the whole place. And we
choosing any of the administrators from whom also have the issue at the cultural level. Is the
they had to get permission before traveling student conscious enough to listen to someone
abroad, doing research or inviting a guest else’s opinion and be quiet? Sometimes he
speaker to campus. All the authorities had been listens to the other’s opinion and riots. We
put in place by, and were thus accountable to, have to protect the university facilities.”
the state-appointed university president.
Accomplishments
The Government Line When asked about their successes, the
Despite this top-down authority structure, uni- members of 9 March mention Hany Dweik, a
versity administrators deny that State Security former student of entomology. Dweik was a
plays any role in how they run their universi- senior when he was arrested and detained for
ties. According to Dr. Hamid Taher, the vice his participation in demonstrations against
president for education and student affairs the 2003 Iraq war.
at Cairo University, the security presence on Dweik then graduated from Cairo University
campus is for the sole purpose of protecting in May 2004, with the highest grade of all the

DANA SMILLIE
university property. entomology students. The entomology depart-
“This university is very big,” he said in his ment requested two assistants, so Dweik and
office in the administration building of Cairo the student with the second highest grades
University while members of the 9 March group were nominated by the faculty. The president
“But the police officers on campus now are p Tens of protested outside. “It has 180,000 students of the university signed off on their nomina-
not university officers as stipulated by the thousands of Cairo and has facilities, labs, computers and expen- tions, but when Dweik went to sign his contract
law,” she says. “They are not attached to Cairo University students sive devices worth millions of dollars. This in December, he found that his nomination had
University; they are attached to the Ministry are affected by requires university security.” been held up because of “security concerns.”
of Interior. The situation now is completely security bans on Taher dismisses the 9 of March group, The members of 9 March started a campaign
illegal.” speakers deemed saying that it is small and doesn’t represent of letters and petitions to the university admin-
“The law is bad, but not very bad,” said Dr. "fundamentalist" or the majority of the faculty. “We now have istration and published letters about Dweik’s
Hany El-Husseiny, also of Cairo University’s "too liberal." 15,000 members in the teaching faculty. The 9 case in opposition newspapers. This continued
mathematics department. “If we apply the March group, how many are they? One hundred until August, when the president of the univer-
law, things will go more or less well. But they twenty out of 15,000?” sity announced that Dweik’s nomination had
don’t follow the law in any respect. The law When asked about the issue of security been accepted.
says nothing about needing securing clearance clearance for junior academic staff, he said its While the members of 9 March consider
for faculty appointments, only for protecting sole goal is to weed out criminals and religious Dweik’s appointment a success, they concede
property.” extremists. that it came during the final weeks before the
The professors in 9 March also note that “When a person is about to be appointed, presidential election and guess that someone
while they feel the presence of State Security he needs to be examined to see if he has com- from Mubarak’s campaign intervened to quiet
on campus, the State Security officers rarely mitted a crime in the past. And in terms of our a potential scandal. They also admit that this
deal with them directly. Instead, State Security situation in Egypt, the most dangerous thing is has been their only concrete achievement to
makes its decisions and the university ad- to appoint a religious fundamentalist. Because date.
ministration carries them out. Indeed, many if a professor becomes a religious fundamen- “All the others are failures,” said Dr. El-
of the professors feel that the relationship talist, he’ll turn 1,000 students into religious Husseiny. “But our success is that everyone
between State Security and the administration fundamentalists.” now, even the minister [of higher education],
has become so close that its hard to determine On the issue of guest speakers, Taher first is talking about academic freedom and dimin-
where one ends and the other begins. said that only fundamentalist speakers had to ishing the security presence on campus. So the
According to Arabic literature professor Dr. be kept out because their lectures could incite issues that were not present at all two years
Sayyed Al-Bahrawy, “No person in a position the destruction of university property. But ago are now one of the main political subjects
of responsibility is appointed without the when asked specifically about Baha Taher, the in the country. This is our success. We have
agreement of security. And those people can’t writer who had been invited to discuss one of brought this to the forefront. But to accom-
make any decisions without the permission of his novels, Hamid Taher said that if the writer plish our goal will be very difficult. We need
security.” wanted to come now, the university would let more political power than this. We need real
The top-down manner in which univer- him. Then he amended his comment. political change.” h

20 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 21
outnews
& about outnews
& about

KRISTINA ROIC
Anatomy of a firecracker
Eid has many blessings. The firecracker is not
one. Firecrackers are illegal. But every year you
can see the same scene: old women quicken
their step as they pass packs of teenaged boys.
Bawabs stare disapprovingly.
Kids growing up in the dark days of socialism
had to content themselves with small packs of
gunpowder called, grandiloquently, “bombs.”
Today, thanks to the Chinese occupation of
Malibu
the Egyptian market, kids have options. In all CHITRA KALYANI
fairness, the Chinese did invent gunpowder and
the firecracker.
You can still buy the “bombs.” Bombs are Despite its name, perhaps the only thing the
comprised of a small envelope full of gunpow- new Doqqi restaurant Malibu has in common
der and small stones, tightly closed with a thin with the California city is its eclecticism: a
metal wire. You throw it like a grenade and it menu featuring Italian cuisine, vaguely African
makes a big sound when it hits the ground. decorations and lighting fixtures constructed
Sound a like a fun toy? You can have a whole from elements of chandeliers. to discuss options, and in minutes produced after the food arrived. Malibu’s official opening
bucket of 50 for a mere LE4. It is easy to find a private corner in the a personalized dinner. The mushroom salad Malibu, while it does not serve alcohol, does coincides with Eid Al Fitr,
Or perhaps you’d prefer one of the new spacious venue and, as the official opening is includes watercress (billed on the menu as have a range of drinks that are fruity and oddly when the restaurant
Chinese toys? Young boys were thrilled a few not until after Ramadan, the restaurant is not Arugula), cheese and a generous dressing that named. The “blue angel” is not really blue, will be open both from
years ago when little, yellow Chinese sticks yet busy. Overall, the restaurant emanates an tasted deliciously of lemon. though ostensibly made of blueberries. Other the morning late into
hit the market. You light one end, and three air of quiet elegance. The red-walled interi- The scallope di pollo (chicken breast) with fruit cocktails bear names like “red sombrero” the night. Appetizers
seconds later it explodes. Sometimes. Or some- ors are softened by an abundance of plants, mushroom sauce arrives in modish (read tiny) and the closer-to-home yet equally inventively range from LE11-25
times it explodes too early. Or not at all. What natural wood furnishings and brown-cush- portions, garnished simply with halves of green named “smile on the Nile,” which had an un- and main courses from
do you want? At LE0.10 a throw, you’re getting ioned seats. Silver crescent bits of blue glass and red pepper. My company forgives the price mistakeable guava juice base. LE20-40, while drinks
what you pay for. dangle from lamps over the tables. Soft lounge (discovered later), which would be moderate Cairo sipped on a “t-shirt” (a mix of citrus are around LE10.
For a mere LE0.15, you can play with the music blends easily into muted conversations. for a larger portion, as the meal tastes every bit juices, pineapple and grenadine), and found it
“Red Rocket,” which arrived in Cairo soon after There is a good variety of entrees, though as satisfying, and the plate is returned clean. a tasty little concoction. When asked why the
the yellow sticks. It’s basically the same thing, some appetizers were unavailable the night The penne quatro fromage comes in generous cocktail is named after an item of clothing, Malibu
but for your extra five piasters (what’s five Cairo visited. The head chef, who goes by the portions and with the same personal attentions however, the waiter smiled politely and 50 Thawra Street
piasters, anyway? Not even a stick of gum), you moniker “Silla,” came by the table, however, from Chef Silla, who came by for a lengthy chat shrugged. Doqqi
get a louder explosion.
If all this sounds like kid’s stuff, you might
wish to try the “Spinning Rocket,” a circular Al Kahk:
band with a fuse that, when lit, hisses, spits Ingredients: Al Ghourayeba:
sparks and spins around for 15 seconds. This 1. 1 kilo flour, Ingredients:
is for older children or those with generous 2. 1/2 kilo clarified butter (semna), 1. 1 kilo flour,
older brothers who can afford the LE.75 sticker 3. 5 grams yeast, 2. 1 kilo clarified butter (ghee),
price. 4. 1/2 teaspoon salt, 3. 1/2 kilo powdered sugar,
And it’s in the LE.75 range that things start 5. 11/2 glasses of water. 4. 1 large bag of nuts.
getting really interesting. The “Dirty” is a small,
green rocket with eight or more small explo- • Add the semna to the flour and mix into an • Blend the sugar and the ghee with an egg
sives that fire like a machine gun. The “American
Rocket”—so called because it is decorated from
tip to tail in the American flag, not because
Tried-and-true even dough. Use your hands, never use a spoon!
It’s important to feel the texture of the dough.
• Add the yeast to a glass of water. Stir. Slowly
whisk.
• Mix in one cup of flour and blend. Then add a
second cup of flower and blend again. Repeat
it was made in the United States—produces
circular explosions before it flies 20 feet or so in
whatever direction it’s pointed.
Eid sweets add both to the dough and mix well.
• Dilute the salt in half a glass of water and add
to the dough. Mix well.
the process till all the flour is mixed into a soft
dough.
• Cut the dough into small round pieces and
Lucky rich kids, and those old enough to CAIRO STAFF • After the dough is mixed evenly, cut it into arrange them on a thin, metal, baking tray and
know better, might be able to spring for a quiver medium-sized round pieces. Insert dates or put one piece of any type of nuts on top for
of colorless rockets. It doesn’t look like much jam to taste. Arrange pieces on a flat metal ornament.
for a full LE1: just a tube of yellowed newspa- It’s Eid once again, and along with the baking tray. Let them rise for four hours. Begin • Preheat oven till nice and hot.
per. But, as one group of young guys playing firecrackers, the festivities demand piles of preheating the oven an hour before the kahk • Put the tray in the oven for roughly 10
with them reported, “You get what you pay for.” sweets. Cairo’s research team, after a series have risen. minutes, when the dough turns yellow take the
Colorless rockets fly high in the sky and make of harrowing expeditions into the kitchens of • Put the tray in the center of the oven. Check tray out.
pretty explosions. “They may,” one reviewer the city, has come up with the absolute best the bottoms of the kahk every 30 minutes until • Don’t move the Ghourayeba from the tray
mused happily, “be used by a lost warrior as of the best of holiday recipes and gained 10 golden-brown. until it cools down or it will crumble.
AHMAD HOSNI

a signal, or to announce victory at the end of kilos. • Sprinkle powdered sugar over the tops of the • Don’t add too much sugar or the Ghourayeba
the battle.” cookies before serving if desired. will come out hard.

22 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 23
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culture news
culture

W
NOT THE WHOLE PICTURE uAl Sawy Cultural Center
26 July St., Zamalek
(736-6178)
LE200 per person.
7pm, Beadwork, four classes to learn how to
use beads, string and wire to create necklaces

O
Tuesday 8 November, 8:15pm and decorations for the home. Fee: LE200 per
The Story of the Creation of Mankind, person.
seminar by the Islamic preacher Fadel Soliman, uSwiss Club
Though useful, Liliane Karnouk’s

R K
member of the Islamic Group for Quran and Villa Pax, Al Gihad St., off Sudan St., Midan
Sunna Research Kit-Kat
uBibliotheca Alexandrina (314- 2811, 315-1455, 010-300-9695)
new book ignores a number of key Al Geish St. (Corniche), Al Shatbi
Saturdays 5-7pm
www.swiss-club-cairo.com
Every Monday and Thursday, 10-11am
Lectures on Modern Trends Yoga workshop for adults
artists in Developing Education and Every Saturday 11am-12pm

S H
Environmental Sustainability by the Ballet course for children
Center for Special Studies and Programs at the Every Saturday 10-11am and Sunday 2-3pm
Bibliotheca Alexandrina, for ages 14-19 Sport & Play for kids 3-5 years old
Sunday 6-Wednesday 9 November, 6pm uTownhouse Gallery of Contemporary
Information Literacy and Lifelong Art
Learning, lecture, meeting and workshop by Nabrawi St., off Champollion St., Downtown

O
40 information literacy and lifelong learning (576-8086, 012-735-8635)
experts from all over the world to discuss Tuesday 8 November 2 pm and Wednesday 9
development in economic and social problems November 10:30am

P S
such as poverty, unemployment and disease Workshop as part of an Egyptian-Swiss Art
using international literacy and lifelong learning. Project on Topography and Identity in
The activities are organized by UNESCO, the Egypt in November 2005 and in Switzerland in
International Federation of Library Associations 2006. Egyptian and Swiss artists and curators
(IFLA) and the National Forum on Information will participate in the workshops as well as
Literacy (NFIL). Egyptian actor and producer special Egyptian guests (artists, curators,
Omar Sharif will address participants. art critics, architects, writers, etc.) Artists
uStudio 206 Mahmoud Khaled, Hildegard Spielhofer,
Villa 14, Road 200, Degla, Maadi Bassam al Baroni, Gertrud Genhart,
(519-5713) Basma Al Husseini, Christof Rösch,
Tuesday 8 November Alaa Khaled, Ralph Hauswirth and others
6:30pm, Beginner Ceramic, four classes will discuss their working conditions, production
to learn how to make handmade pottery. Fee: potentials and artistic strategies.
Egyptian Art, released by AUC Press in 1995. In the fourth chapter, “Designing for a New
In a small section at the beginning of her Egypt,” the author moves on to a discussion Artistic insight at the Townhouse Gallery
first chapter, “Egyptian Awakening,” Karnouk of architecture. She looks at the growth of
discusses the British occupation of Egypt in Heliopolis and Hassan Fathi’s Nubian-influ-
1882 and the flowering of both the fine arts enced work—two architectural phenomena
and Sheikh Mohammed Abdu’s ideas on how that bear little or no relation to one other.
to renew and reform Islam. She catalogues Karnouk concludes the chapter without men-
attempts by Egyptian intellectuals to retrieve, tioning a single contemporary Egyptian archi-
revive and reinterpret Pharaonic art, but never tect by name.
mentions the desire to escape the remnants of None of the first four chapters appeared
Ottoman colonial culture that motivated such in Karnouk’s previous work, Contemporary
attempts. Instead, she erroneously associates Egyptian Art. Chapters five to eleven, however,
it with the Egyptomania that was sweeping did. Chapter five is a superficial account of
Europe at the time “The Revolutionary Years 1952-1967” that
ASHRAF IBRAHIM p (top) The Karnouk’s profiles of pioneering artists manages to ignore a number of important
Time Machine, Mahmoud Mokhtar, Mahmoud Said, artists practicing “resistance art,” such as
installation by Mohammed Nagi and Raghib Eyyad are good William Ishaq, Hassan Fouad and Dawoud Aziz. either students or teachers at the College of featuring only one entry for video), Karnouk z The 1937 themes. Nor does the book contain images

L
Liliane Karnouk, introductions for readers who know little Chapters six to eleven deal with the following Art. ignores many important artists working in the painting Banat of some of the works that, by Karnouk’s own
author of Modern about them. The profiles contain interesting subjects: “Modernism and Art Appropriations,” In chapter thirteen, “The Body,” Karnouk field. She also writes as if photography were Bahari (Coast Girls) assessment, are the most important in certain
iliane Karnouk’s book Modern Egyptian Egyptian Art. biographical information, but add little to our “Internationalism and Abstraction,” includes a profile of her own work written by an entirely new phenomenon in Egypt. That’s by seminal artist artists’ careers. Several pictures appear to be
Art 1910-2003 is interesting and well-written, The book's cover understanding of the artists’ work. “Premodernism or Postmodernism?,” “Islamic Ron Walkey, a professor of architecture at the not the case; the first time photography was Mahmoud Said. low-quality, almost blurry reproductions.
and fills a void in the literature on the subject. illustration is Her next chapter, “The Cosmopolitans,” Art Revival,” “Pluralism in Styles” and “The University of British Columbia. exhibited in Egypt was in 1923 at the House of Karnouk writes engagingly, and strikes a
In her preface, Karnouk writes, “In time, I Hamed Nada's 1989 looks at artists from the movement’s second Kitsch Wave: A Transition or an End?.” These Even stranger, in chapter fifteen (“History, Egyptian Arts and Crafts, 21 Al Bulaq Street, nice middle ground between criticism and
hope, others will assess the importance of the Eve of the Henna. generation, such as Ramses Younan, Kamil chapters have been lifted wholesale from her Words and Books”), Karnouk includes the Cairo. The Association of Fine Art Lovers held biography. Her book is clearly intended for a
artists presented here and add forgotten and Al Tilmasani and Fouad Kamil. She discusses previous book, paying no regard to the devel- French photographer and painter Bernard its first photography exhibitions in January general readership, and best serves as an in-
new names to this selection.” This is indeed to their revolt against the prevalent techniques opment of featured artists in the intervening Guillot ahead of a long list of Egyptian artists, 1933. This exhibition contained 598 pictures troduction to Egyptian modern art for a reader
be hoped, for the book has serious lacunae. of the time and their move toward abstrac- ten years. despite the fact that Guillot’s work is a product by 131 photographers (67 Egyptians and 64 who knows very little about the subject.
Karnouk—a Canadian citizen who was tion, and touches on their communications In her twelfth chapter Karnouk talks about of French culture and tradition, and is not part foreigners). Karnouk says nothing of pioneer- The danger is that because this book is virtu-
born in Egypt to Armenian parents—begins with their European contemporaries. the 1990s, but her treatment of the annual of the modern Egyptian art movement. This is ing Armenian studio photographers such as ally unique, it will be taken for an accurate and
her book with a seven-page preface in which In her third chapter, “The Folk Realists,” Youth Salon (which was started in 1989 and not to take away from the quality of his beau- Van Leo, Alban, Cavouk and Arman, or the comprehensive survey. But the author is not
she talks about the trouble she had collect- Abdel Hadi Al Gazzar and Hamid Nada are has become an important event in the artistic tiful pictures of Egypt, but if Karnouk wants generation of Egyptian artists that followed. entirely to blame here. The problems of Modern
ing material for the book. Due perhaps to chosen as representatives of the third gen- calendar, displaying hundreds of new artists to talk about Egyptian art she should stick to Although Hala Al Koussi, Nermine Hammam Egyptian Art afflict a number of books on the
these difficulties, the book is essentially a list eration of modern Egyptian artists. Both are each year) is far too brief. Ignoring a number Egyptian artists. Foreign artists who have lived and Youssef Nabil are talented artists, they are subject. The fault is ours as Egyptians; we have
of selected artists that reflects the author’s extremely important artists, but instead of ex- of important artists, she chooses to write and worked in Egypt deserve a separate book all hardly the only or the best representatives of not produced a single book that includes a
personal taste. There seems to be no scholarly amining their most interesting works, Karnouk about Ahmed Nabil and his painstakingly tra- of their own. This could include many figures, photography in Egypt. comprehensive bibliography of our artists or
basis for the criteria Karnouk uses to include is content to talk about events in their lives ditional canvases. Ayman Al Samri, Emad Abu from the first generation of teachers at the Though it references more than 160 the various schools and periods of Egypt’s art
certain schools and movements and exclude and the influence of popular culture on their Zein and other artists who have come out of School of Fine Arts, to artists such as French il- sources, Karnouk’s book cannot be considered movements. Likewise, the Museum of Egyptian
others. The book’s value as a scholarly work output. She makes no mention of Effat Nagi’s the Youth Salon are absent. Karnouk makes no lustrator Golo or painter Mago Veillon, who died a comprehensive account of the Egyptian art Modern Art, having recently reopened its ex-
and documentary record is inevitably affected use of popular art or her early and important real attempt to explore the political and social two years ago after almost 70 years in Egypt. movement and its history. It ignores many hibition on the history of modern art after a
by this. attempts to move beyond traditional under- reasons behind the Salon’s foundation, and she The book ends with its slimmest and weakest important artists (and entire fields—there four-year closure, disappointed us all with its
The book consists of sixteen chapters, seven standings of the picture, which produced seems unaware that the majority of the artists chapter: a discussion of photography and video isn’t a single reference to ceramics). It groups inaccurate and inadequate portrayal of this
of which already appeared in Contemporary collage-like works. who rose to prominence in this period were work. Focusing on just four individuals (and artists according to arbitrary categories and history. h

24 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 25
news
culture news
culture
Music and Dance Venues: Thursday 3 November Sunday 6 November
Culture in Brief
ARABIC LITERATURE 2.0
uAfter 8 Wust El Balad, modern Egyptian songs uAfter 8 Wust El Balad, modern Egyptian songs
uAfter 8 uAl Sawy Cultural Center River Hall, 8pm, Farah uAl Sawy Cultural Center River Hall, 7pm, From
N C E

6 Qasr Al Nil St., Downtown (010-339-8000) Al Masri and Magdi Batta, Nubian folklore The People, To The People, Nubian concert by Beshir
Shows start at 10pm unless otherwise noted uJazz-Up Riff, swing and jazz uGezira Art Center 7:30pm, concert by Mexican
uAl Sawy Cultural Center singer María Elena García Rivera, with Uruguayan
Archaeologists have found a treasure trove
26 July St., Zamalek (736-6178) Friday 4 November pianist Ignacio Pilone
uAmerican University in Cairo uAfter 8 Wust El Balad, modern Egyptian songs uJazz-Up Salsa night with Rami and Suzi of Asian and Islamic art from the tenth
Main Campus, Sheikh Rihan St., Downtown uAl Sawy Cultural Center River Hall, 8pm, Wust century in a sunken boat off the coast of
(797-6373) El Balad, modern Egyptian songs Monday 7 November Indonesia. An international team of divers
uCairo Opera House uJazz-Up Salsa night with Rami and Suzi uAl Sawy Cultural Center Wisdom Hall, 8pm,
recovered 250,000 artifacts over the last 18
D A

Gezira, Zamalek Arabic music and lute night with Oud Stars and Atef
(739-8132, 739-8144) Saturday 5 November Abdel Hamid months. The objects include perfume flasks,
Shows start at 8pm unless otherwise noted uAfter 8 Screwdriver, rock and roll vases, porcelain dishes and glassware from
uFrench Cultural Center, Heliopolis uAl Sawy Cultural Center River Hall, 8pm, Tuesday 8 November the Fatimid dynasty that once ruled Egypt.
5 Shafiq Al Dib St., Ard El Golf Wama, pop music uAfter 8 Sahari, rai music
(417-4824, 419-3857) uCairo Opera House Small Hall, Sunshine, led by uAl Sawy Cultural Center Bostan Al Nil Hall, 7pm, The divers also found objects from China’s
uFrench Cultural Center, Mounira
1 Madrassat Al Hoquq Al Faransia St., Mounira
(794-7679, 794-4095)
Hamada Nour, English and Spanish pop music nai concert by Ali Aboul Fadl

Wednesday 9 November
Five Dynasties period (907-960 AD), as well
as 14,000 pearls, 4,000 rubies, 400 dark red Union and website for Internet writers provide
sapphires and more than 2,200 garnets. This
&

uGeneina Theater
Salah Salem Road, Al Azhar Park
(346-7601, 010-575-5191)
uAfter 8 Riff, swing and jazz
uAl Sawy Cultural Center
Word Hall, 7pm, Madad Ya Kul Al Fannaneen (Long
ancient treasure has led to modern-day greed.
Cosmix, a secretive Dubai-based corporation,
publishing opportunity and highlight new genre
Shows start at 9pm Live All Artists), poetry and singing by Gemmeiza, led by funded the €5 million (about LE35 million)
uGezira Art Center Nasser Al Noubi salvage operation. The divers have also had EMAN SHABAN MORSI Sherbini is confident that soon interactive, digital litera- union, I now have readers and friends not only from my
1 Al Marsafi St., Zamalek (737-3298) Wisdom Hall, 8pm, Dieski, rock music
C

uGomhouriya Theater uCairo Opera House Main Hall, Opera Butterfly to defend their booty from the Indonesian ture will replace the traditional, printed kind. “Literature governorate [Alexandria], but also from all around Egypt
Gomhouriya St., Abdeen (390-7707) performed by Cairo Opera Choir and Cairo Opera Navy and other treasure hunters. The artifacts develops along with society. We started with the myth and the Arab world. Publishing online is also faster and

T
Shows start at 8pm Orchestra , led by Nader Abassi
S I

will be offered at auction in 2006 and 2007, and the epic, and now we are moving towards digital less complex than publishing on paper.” Ateiya also says
uJazz-Up and Indonesia will receive 50 percent of the realism—but of course, it will take people some time to that publishing online provides writers with valuable
Nile Hilton, 1113 Corniche Al Nil, Downtown Thursday 10 November
(578-0444, 578-0666) uCairo Opera House Main Hall, Opera Butterfly proceeds from the sale. he Arab Internet Writers’ Union is trying, with accept the change.” feedback from readers.
Shows start at 10:30pm performed by Cairo Opera Choir and Cairo Opera mixed results, to pull Arabic literature into the 21st Many of the union’s own members, however, are far “I like the fact that you get more space in terms of
uTownhouse Gallery of Contemporary Art Orchestra , led by Nader Abassi Egyptian actor Omar Sharif has just been century. Founded in 2004, the union launched a test from accepting such changes. “Digital literature will never story length and freedom of expression,” adds Ateiya.
U

Nabrawi St., off Champollion St., Downtown uFrench Cultural Center, Mounira 8:30pm,
sued for allegedly attacking and hurling website last April (www.arab-ewriters.com). The union replace printed literature,” insists Mohammed Ateiya, a Online publications in Egypt are generally uncensored.
(576-8086, 012-735-8635) musical dinner with Valery and Wassillev on piano and
Shows start at 9pm María Elena García Rivera contrabass racial slurs at a US parking attendant has members from many different Arab countries, young writer who recently joined the union. “Reading “We are not censored at all,” says Shabloul. “Our focus
M

in June 2005. Guatemalan-born Juan including well-known figures such as Moroccan critic a novel takes hours and to spend such a long time in is on culture and literature, not politics or pornography.
Anderson, a valet at a chic Los Angeles res- Mohammed Motassem, Egyptian writer Ahmed Al front of the computer screen, with all the concentration We are just a group of intellectuals, with no political
uAl Sawy Cultural Center uKarim Francis Contemporary Art Gallery Open daily 10am-2pm & 6-9pm, Thursdays & Fridays taurant, claims Sherif punched him in the Khamisi and Kuwaiti writer Hayat Al Yaqout. involved in the process of reading, is not something that aims, writing about a new creative genre, so we have
26 July St., Zamalek (736-6178) 157 26 July St., third floor, Zamalek 6-9pm only side of the head and called him a “stupid The union says it aims to spread awareness of “digital many can do—it hurts one’s eyes.” no trouble with the government and won’t have in the
Open daily 9am-9pm (736-2183, 010-667-4823) Selection of new drawings by Ahmed Nossier, through
Earth Hall www.karimfrancis.com 9 November Mexican.” Sharif was reportedly angry culture” among the Arab public. Its website publishes a Ateiya sees the union and its website mainly as a future.”
Artwork using various materials by Hossam Eddin Open daily 4-11pm, Mondays off uZamalek Art Gallery when the valet refused to accept a tip in great number of articles on information technology and chance to publish. “Getting your work published on the Overall, the website looks promising, as do its future
Ahmed Story Teller, paintings by Christian Voigt, through 9 11 Brazil St., Zamalek euros rather than dollars. In 2001, the hot- digital literacy in the Arab world. Internet will provide you with a better chance of being plans to release an e-magazine and establish an elec-
Word Hall November (735-1240, 012-224-1062) headed Sharif was given a one-month sus- The website also publishes short stories, poems, read and consequently known,” he says. “Thanks to the tronic publishing house and an electronic library. h
Woodwork exhibition by Mohammed Youssef uMashrabiya Gallery www.zamalekartgallery.com
All exhibitions through 9 November. 8 Champollion St., Downtown (578-4494) Open daily 10:30am-9pm, Fridays off pended prison sentence for head-butting a novels, and critical essays under the heading Al Nashr
Daily 6-11pm Open daily 11am-8pm, Fridays off Paintings by Abdel Rahman Al Nachar, through 10 police officer in a casino near Paris. Al Electroni (Electronic Publishing). Though its archive is message text gliding across the image of a mobile phone
uBibliotheca Alexandrina
Al Geish St., (Corniche), Al Shatbi, Alexandria
100 days—100 Imachinations, live projection by
German artist Tim Otto Roth. The series of changing
Photo exhibition by French artist Aurélia Frey, through
9 November
uPicasso Gallery
30 Hassan Assem St., off Brazil St., Zamalek
November
Daily images of the pyramids are now avail-
able to people around the world, thanks to
comparatively small, it is regularly updated and within a
short time should rival other Arabic literature websites
such as www.kotbarabia.com. Short stories include Boqa
Screen-scroller screen. Whenever Mohammed turns to chat services on
the Web, Yahoo! or Maktoob icons appear on screen. This
really is literature for today’s Arabic youth.
projected images will be shown on the BA Conference Center’s (736-7544) a new website: http://www.pyramidcam. Sawda (Black Spot) by Gawaher Al Refaiya, and Habibat EMAN SHABAN MORSI Background music plays during certain passages. If
triangular wall facing the Corniche, enabling the public to www.picassoartgallery-egypt.com com. PyramidCam.com is a collaborative Al E-mail (The E-mail Beloved) by Abdel Nur Edriss. It has that’s not enough to suggest the mood of the protagonist,
watch the light show from the Corniche. Through 6 December. During Ramadan open daily 10am-9pm, Sundays off
effort. Heading the project is Jim Sorenson, also published book-length works of criticism, such as cartoon thought balloons appear as the reader glides the
Various works by Sudanese artists: black and white uAmerican University in Cairo
drawings by Ibrahim Al Sayed, oil paintings by Falaki Building, Falaki St., Bab Al Louq an American businessman who has lived and Qiraat Fi Adab Al Mara Al Khalijiya (An Assessment of It’s not a book. Is it a novel? A website? Entertainment? mouse over certain words, to explain what the narrator
Hasan Ali, drawings on pumpkin by Adel Kebeida (797-6373) worked in Egypt for 30 years. Local partner Gulf Women’s Literature). Literature? None of the above? All of the above? Perhaps was thinking while he wrote them: literary meta-text and
and portraits by Mervat Al Shazli, through 4 Open daily12-9pm, Fridays off Siag Hotel and Travel furnishes the vantage Besides publishing a great number of literary works the best indication that Mohammed Sanajleh has done computer hypertext. When characters make reference to
S

November Shows starting Sunday 6 November. Opening reception


point for viewing: the top of the Siag Hotel produced by union members, the website also contains something truly innovative with Chat is that it so stub- American Beauty and The Matrix, links to clips from the
uRare Books and Special Collections Library Sunday 13 November, 6pm.
22 Mansour St., Downtown (797-6243) Second floor, a site-specific installation by Malak Helmi in Giza. The high-definition network camera samples of what has come to be known as adab al bornly resists categorization. films appear.
N

Open daily, 8:30am-5pm, Saturdays 12-5pm, Fridays off and Tarek Al Shazli used at PyramidCam.com is from StarDot waqeiya al raqamiya, or “digital realism literature.” It is Sanajleh, the head of the Arab Union for Internet On the union’s website, Sanajleh writes that “In the
Cairo and Its People, selections from the Rare Books Fifth floor, A Journey: From Iran to Central Asia, Technologies, a California company known for for this new form of literary production—which includes Writers, says he’s written a novel. He’s even got a name for digital realism novel, words will be just one part of a larger
& Special Collections Library’s Van Leo and Creswell photography by Bernard O’Kane, professor of Islamic
O

collections, through 31 January 2006 Art and Architecture its cameras on the Yosemite and Yellowstone sound tracks, visual effects and hyperlinks—that the the genre: “digital realism.” Chat was released 23 October, whole. For, in addition to words, we should write with
uCordoba Gallery uSafar Khan Gallery All exhibitions through 24 November. National Park websites. website was mainly created. on the Arab Union’s website. pictures, sounds and animation.”
3A Degla St., Mohandiseen (012-110-4699) 6 Brazil St., Zamalek uDoroub Gallery Ahmed Fadl Shabloul, vice president of the union, Chat tells the story of Mohammed, a young Jordanian But does all this focus on technological tricks merely
I

www.cordobatalgibaly.com (735-3314) www.safarkhan.com 4 Latin America St., Garden City (794-7951) As Ramadan ended, a vague consensus says, “We are working on a theory of ‘digital realism engineer who works for a multinational company in an disguise bad writing? Lengthy passages in Chat, in which
Open daily 11am-8pm, Fridays off Open daily, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm, Sundays off Open daily 10am-10pm, Fridays off
Masriyat, painting, photography and pottery by Exhibition by Mahmoud Afi , works 1920-1984, Thursday 3 November emerged about this year’s most popular literature,’ that will make literature more interactive isolated seaside town in Oman. Driven by boredom and the narrator describes his feelings for a Lebanese girl,
T

Yasser Nabayel, Hatem Al Toudi, Ali Azzam, through 5 November Collection, paintings by Mohammed Sabri, Abdel soap operas. Hits included Hanan Turk’s through the use of available Internet tools such as multi- chance, the protagonist turns to cyberspace, which he contain such a long and complex array of symbols and
Khalaf Tayea, Mohammed Al Nasser, Abdel uSalama Gallery Wahab Morsi, Galal Al Husseini, Mervat Sara on Dubai channel, in which Turk media and hypertext. It will be a more interactive litera- finds more fulfilling than his everyday existence. images that they are almost incomprehensible.
I

Hakim Sayed and Mohammed Mandour, through 36 Ahmed Orabi St., Mohandiseen (346-3242) Refaat and Gihan Raouf; sculpture by Halim played a woman stuck at the developmen- ture—one in which the reader helps create the text.” Both the narrator and the author are Jordanian. Both Though Chat’s multimedia effects give the reading ex-
15 November Open daily 10am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Yacoub and Ammar Shiha; jewellery by Ahmed
uFonoun Art Gallery Ramadaniyat, oil paintings and sculpture by George Badawi, Lama Horani and Sarah Abdel Azim; tal stage of a 12-year-old by a childhood In one of the stories featured on the website, the are named Mohammed. At some points, the protagonist perience a new flavor, the novelty quickly wears off. In the
B

14 Jedda St., Doqqi (338-0298) Bahgouri, Omar Al Nagdi, Ammar Shiha calligraphy by Mounib Obradovich, through 12 trauma and set upon by villainous relatives reader gets to choose what events will come next by drifts into long passages of metaphysical meditation that end, these effects accomplish no more than what readers’
Open daily, 10am-10pm and Mohammed Ibrahim Youssef, through 15 November and acquaintances. The Satellite channel clicking on one of the numerous hypertext phrases at seem improbable coming from a math-nerd engineer. imaginations have long done: visualize elements in the
Portraits by Gamal Kamel and sculpture by November uFrench Cultural Center, Mounira
H I

MBC had two popular shows as well. Raya the end of each chapter, thus creating his or her own Sanajleh used a mixture of Flash and HTML to create story. Thus, one wonders if the pyrotechnics are merely
Mohammed Al Fayoumi, through 4 November uToot Gallery 1 Madrassat Al Hoquq Al Faransiya St., Mounira
uFrench Cultural Center, Mounira 80 Mohieddin Aboul Ezz St., Doqqi (335-0248) (794-7679, 794-4095) and Sekina was a high-quality retelling of version of the story. backgrounds and add special effects. The first chapter, Al a means of compensating for writing that fails to evoke
1 Madrassat Al Hoquq Al Faransiya St., Mounira Open daily 11am-7pm, Fridays off Daily 10am-11pm the crimes of the Alexandria murderesses, Union member Mohammed Al Sherbini shares Adam Al Ramly (The Sandy Vacuum), begins with a short a scene or capture the imagination. Chat may be the first
(794-7679, 794-4095) Colors from Egypt by Sri Lankan artist Padmini Wednesday 9 November, 7pm while the Syrian show Al Hur Al Ein tackled Shabloul’s enthusiasm for the new literary genre. “The clip of wind blowing through an empty desert. novel of its kind in Arabic literature. A new path has been
Daily 10am-11pm Serasinghe, through 4 November Lignes de Paix (Lines of Peace), caricatures,
terrorism, recounting the 2003 bombing of Internet is the future,” he says. “On the web you have Every time the protagonist receives an SMS, an icon of opened. Let’s hope many more gifted writers travel down
Par la Forêt Obscure (Through the Dark Forest), uTownhouse Gallery of Contemporary Art drawings and sculpture by French artist Plantu and
X

photography by French artist Aurélia Frey, through 6 Nabrawi St., off Champollion St., Downtown Mustafa Hussein, in cooperation with the Bibliotheca a Riyadh apartment complex from the point more options, you can have three dimensional images, a mobile phone appears in the text. Clicking on the icon it. Otherwise, it risks being no more than another forget-
November (576-8086, 012-735-8635) Alexandrina, through 30 November of view of the Arab families living there. background music and many other special effects.” Al allows the reader to hear the message tone and read the table experiment.
E

26 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 27
listings
news news

TARA TODRAS-WHITEHILL
C I N E M A & T H E A T E R An asbestos worker poses for the
camera in 6 October City, July 2005.
CINEMA q Tuesday 8 November, 7pm Downtown (591-0954) Al Edana (The Condemnation),
Al Madina (The City), directed by Starting Friday 4 November directed by Hany Al Banna and starring
New Movies for the Eid: Youssri Nasralla, 2000 (Arabic with Daily 11am & 8pm, except Tuesdays Tayssir Fahmi, through 20 November
(call venues to check which movie will English subtitles) Al Moghamerun Al Khamsa (The uAl Haram
be shown) uFrench Cultural Center, Five Adventurers), puppet show directed 174 Al Haram St.
Heliopolis by Mohammed Abdel Salam, through (386-3952)
Orido Kholaan (I Want a Divorce), 5 Shafiq Al Dib St., Ard El Golf 10 November Daily 10:30pm, Tuesdays off
written and directed by Ahmed Awad, (417-4824, 419-3857) uAl Baloon Starting Thursday 3 November
starring Ashraf Abdel Baqi and Hala Shiha Tuesday 8 November, 8pm Al Nil Street, Agouza Bodyguard, directed by Rami Imam,
Banat Wust Al Balad (Downtown Buena Vista Social Club (347-1718) starring Adel Imam and Sherin Seif Al
Girls), directed by Mohammed Khan, documentary movie directed by Wim Thursday 3 November-Saturday 5 Nasr, through the winter season
starring Hind Sabri, Menna Shalabi and Wenders, 1999, 100min., starring November, 9:30 pm uAl Rihani
Mohammed Nagati Compay Segundo (English and Spanish Shows by Reda Ensemble for 17 Emad Eddin St., Downtown
Gai fil Sariaa (Coming Quickly), with French subtitles) Shaabi Arts and by Shaabi Music (591-3697)
directed by Gamal Qasem, starring uFrench Cultural Center, Mounira ensemble Daily 10:30pm, except Wednesdays
Magid Al Kadawani and Riham Abdel 1 Madrassat Al Hoquq Al Faransiya St., uAl Fan Starting Thursday 3 November
Ghafour Mounira (794-7679, 794-4095) 22 Ramses St., Downtown Do Re Mi Fasolia, directed by
Ghawi Hob (Hopeless Romantic), Wednesday 9 November, 8:30pm (578-2444) Mahmoud Abu Geleila, starring Samir
directed by Ahmed Al Badri, starring Sahar Al Layali (Sleepless Nights), Daily 10pm Ghanem and Shaaban Abdel Rahim,
Mohammed Foad and Hala Shiha directed by Hani Khalifa, starring Sherif Starting Thursday 3 November through the winter season
Dars Khosousi (Khosousi’s Lesson), Mounir, Mona Zaki, Hanan Turk, Fathi Barhouma Waklah Al Barouma uAl Salam
directed by Sameh Abdel Aziz, starring Abdel Wahab and Jihan Fadel, 2003, 130 (Barhouma Decayed), directed by Galal 101 Qasr Al Aini St., Garden City
Mohammed Attiya and Hana Shiha min. (Arabic with French subtitles) Al Sharqawi, starring Ahmed Adam, (795-2484)
In cooperation with the National Center for Mahmoud Al Guindi and Hanan Atteya, Daily 10pm, except Tuesdays
Egyptian Cinema through the winter season Starting Thursday 3 November
uGoethe-Institute Cairo uAl Ghad Theater Al Nas Al Nos Nos (The Average
5 Al Bustan St., Downtown (575-9877) 26 July St., Agouza People), written by Kamel Hanafi,
Tuesday 8 November, 7pm (304-3187) directed by Fouad Abdel Hai, starring
Schultze Gets the Blues, directed by Daily 10:30pm, except Mondays Sherine, Nihal Anbar and Ahmed Rateb,
Michael Schorr, 2003, 114min (English Starting Saturday 4 November through the winter season
and German) Ragel Al Alaa (The Man of the uAl Sawy Cultural Center
Wednesday 9 November, 7pm Citadel), directed by Nasr Abdel 26 July St., Zamalek
Aus Liebe zum Volklove(Love for Moneim, starring Tawfiq Abdel Hamid, (736-6178)
INDEPENDENT the People), directed by Eyal Sivan and Zeinab Ismail and others, through 20 Saturday 5 November, 8:30pm
CINEMAS q Audry Maurion, 2004 (German) November Barra Al Gornal (Off the
uAl Hanager Arts Center Newspaper), written by Yasser Aallam
uAmerican University in Cairo THEATER q Opera House grounds, Zamalek directed by Sobhi Al Haggar
Greek Campus, Youssef Guindi St., (735-6861) Sunday 6 November, 8:30
Downtown, Jameel Center Auditorium, uAl Arayes Daily 9:30 p.m., except Mondays Al Wad Ghorab wa Al Qamar
(797-6373) Midan Ataba, next to Al Taliaa Theater, Starting Saturday 5 November (The Boy Ghorab and the Moon),
written by Ashraf Azzab, directed by
Ibrahim Al Sheikh
uAl Taliaa
Midan Ataba, behind Al Ataba Parking,
Downtown (593-7948)
Daily 9pm, except Tuesdays
Starting Friday 4 November
u6 October Cinema Friday also 1am 9:30pm & 12:30am Al Moharregun (The Clowns), written
Al Hay Al Sabea St., behind 6 of October uFlorida Cinema 1 & 2 uNormandy Cinema by Mohammed Al Moghawat, directed
University (835-7569) Masakin Sheraton, Heliopolis 32 Al Ahram St., Heliopolis by Maher Selim, through 20 November
Daily 10:30am, 12:50, 3:50, 6:50 (268-5005) (257-9195) uFeissal Nada
& 9:50pm, Thursday and Friday also Daily 11am, 1:30, 4, 7, 10pm & Daily 10:30am, 1, 3:30, 6:30 & 22 Qasr Al Aini St., Garden City
12:45am 12:30am (532-1112)
uCairo Mall Cinema uGalaxy Cinema 9:30pm, Thursday and Friday also 1am
uRamses Hotel Cinema Daily 9pm, except Thursday 3 and Friday
Al Haram St., in front of Central Al Haram 67 Abdel Aziz Abdel Saoud St., Manial 4 November at 10pm
(584-9721) (532-5745, 532-5746) Al Tahrir Sq. Downtown
Daily 10:30am, 1:30, 4, 7 & 10pm, Daily 10:30am, 1:30, 4, 7, 10pm (574-7435, 574-7436) Starting Thursday 3 November
Thursday and Friday also 1am & 1am Daily 11am, 1:30, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am In Kibir Ibnak (If Your Son Grew Up),
uCairo Sheraton Cinema uGeneina Mall Cinema uRenaissance Nile City directed by Fouad Abdel Hai, starring
Midan Al Galaa, Al Dokki (760-6081) 4 Al Battrawy St., Nasr City (263-0745) Corniche Al Nil, Northern Tower, Nile City, Sami Al Adl, Mohammed Nagati, Heba
Daily 1, 4, 7 & 10pm, Thursday and Daily 11am, 1:30, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am before Arkadia mall, Downtown Al Sisi and Gihan Salama, through the
Friday also 12:30am uGood News Cinema winter season
(461-9102, 461-9103)
uCity Center Cinema Grand Hyatt, Garden City
3 Makram Ebeid St., Nasr City (365-1234) Daily 11am, 1, 4, 7 & 10pm & 1am
(010-667-5096) Daily 10:20am, 1, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am uRivoli Cinema
Daily 11:30am, 1:15, 4:15, 7:15, uHeliopolis Cinema 26 July St., in front of Dar Al Kadaa Al
10:15pm & 1am Off Damask St., Korba, Heliopolis Aali, Downtown (5755-053)
uConcorde Hotel Cinema (258-0647) 11am, 1:15, 3:45, 6:45, 9:45pm and
Next to Al Shams Club, Abdel Hamid Daily 11am, 1:15, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am 12:30am
Badawy St., Heliopolis uKarim Cinema 1 & 2 uStars Cinema
(622-4000, 622-6000) 15 Emad Eddin St., Downtown City Stars Center, Nasr City
Daily 11am, 1:15, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am (592-4830)
(414-2488, 480-3013/14)
uDiana Cinema Daily 10:30am, 1:30, 3:30, 6:30,
Al Alfy St., off 26th of July St., 9:30pm & 12:30am Daily 10:50am, 1:30, 3:30, 6:30,
Downtown uMaadi Al Bandar Mall Cinema 9:30pm & 12:30am
(592-4727, 786-9949) 1 Palestine St., Maadi uTeeba Mall Cinema
Daily 11am, 1:30, 3:30, 6:30 & (519-0770) Al Nasr St., Nasr City
9:30pm Daily 10am, 1, 4, 7 & 10pm, Thursday (262-1084)
uDream Cinema and Friday also 1am Daily 10:45am, 1:15, 4:15, 7:15 &
6 October, Dream Land, Dream Mall, 6th uMetro Cairo Cinema 10:15pm, Thursday and Friday also
of October City (840-1252) 35 Talaat Harb St., Downtown 1:15am
Daily 10:30am, 1, 4, 7, 10pm, Thursday (393-7061)
also 12:30am Daily 11am, 1, 4, 7, 10pm & 1am uWonder Land Cinema
uFamily Cinema uMiami Cinema 3 Mashrou Winder St., Nasr City
11 Othman Towers, Maadi 38 Talaat Harb St., Downtown (401-2354)
(524-8100, 524-8120) (574-5656) Daily 10:30am, 1:30, 4:30, 7:15 &
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28 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 ISSUE 30 CAIRO MAGAZINE 3-9 NOVEMBER 2005 29
and news
finally... news

75 years ago
Tensions ran high following the Wafd and Liberal
Constitution parties’ 6 November 1930 announcement
that they would boycott the elections to protest the
constitution approved by Ismail Sidqi’s government.
Dozens of people were injured as students rioted on
university campuses in Alexandria and Cairo.

50 years ago
On 3 November 1955, President Gamal Abdel Nasser
rejected David Ben-Gurion’s request for a meeting to
settle “the Palestinian problem,” citing clashes between
Israeli and Egyptian troops in the northern Sinai region
Yet knowing all of these things, my family of Al Auja that left more than 50 Egyptian soldiers dead.
and I still decided to go because we knew we could

M yanmar means “the golden land” in


Burmese, and after being there I understood why.
avoid patronizing government-run businesses.
We knew our money would go into the pockets of
the people of Myanmar.
30 years ago
Three hundred thousand unarmed Moroccans walked
across the border into the northeast portion of Western
It is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever Pagodas are religiously significant in Sahara, then Spanish Sahara, on 6 November 1975, in
visited. It felt like a moving picture. Buddhism, the main religion of Myanmar. a push to lay claim to the area. Morocco’s King Hassan
Yet even though it is a visually stunning Shewedagon Pagoda, located in Yagon, is called the event the “Green March.” The International
country, there are many problems. The country the religious epicenter of the country and the Court of Justice, whose decisions are not binding,
is run by a military dictatorship, and human magnificent structure is covered with 40 tons had previously rejected Morocco’s claim to Western
rights organizations claim that ethnic of gold. Bagan, another city in Burma, is also Sahara, supporting the right of the Sahrawi people to
cleansings take place in areas tourists aren’t famous for its pagodas. It is overflowing with self-determination. The influx of Moroccans, especially
allowed to visit. Activist Aung San Suu Kyi very old (non-gilded) pagodas, and the best government soldiers, forced thousands of indigenous
is being held under house arrest in the capital way to see them is by hot air balloon. There are Sahrawi into refugee camps in Algeria.
Yangon and many people are too afraid of literally hundreds of them on just a few acres.
government retribution to even mention her We decided to get up before dawn to watch the 10 years ago
name. The government controls its people by sunrise while we floated above the pagodas. It was On 4 November 1995, Israeli Prime Minister Yitzhak
severely limiting access to international news incredible, and I can only hope this photo shows a Rabin was assassinated by Jewish law student Yigal
and to the Internet. It is impossible to check a tenth of the beauty of the place. Amir. Amir later told a judge that the assassination was
hotmail account in Myanmar, something I an attempt to derail the peace process, since, he said,
couldn’t believe until I saw it with my own eyes. —Tara Todras-Whitehill Rabin was intent on “giving our country to the Arabs.” He
pointed to Halacha, the Jewish legal code, as the source
of ideas that had led him to commit the murder.
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