Hike from Trail-1C (Darra Kalinger Trek) & return via Trail-4B (Faisal Mosque Trek)

(Start Coordinates: 3343'37.10"N 73 01'07.96"E) Elev: 1,975 feet) (End Coordinates: 3344'42.62"N 73 01'51.89"E) Elev: 1,985 feet)

(Shaikh Muhammad Ali)

3D Google Map of the entire Hike: Maximum Trek Elevation 3,145 Feet

Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life. Jack Kerouac

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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The first time that I went hiking was in 1986 and that was in Balakot, KPK province in Northern Pakistan. It so happened that I was visiting Balakot from Karachi and was planning to visit Kaghan and Naran when I met some foreigners and after making friends with them went hiking on local routes. I was only twenty two (22) then and this is when I developed a taste for hiking and trekking. After going around in 8 countries, living, working and studying there between 1988 to 1995; getting married in 1997, raising children and finally settling down in Islamabad (at least for the time being) since July 2002; I have picked up trekking again since the last three years. Where theres a will, theres a way. I have found a few friends who are hiker types and we have been ascending and descending the Margalla Hills like a disease. I have been trekking aggressively lately and thus have been writing about my escapades as well. I feel, now is the time to educate my readers collectively as to what are the popular trekking options in the Margalla Hills. Here we go.

Walking in the Margalla Hills

The Margalla Hills are effectively foothills of the Himalayas and are very easily accessible from Islamabad. However these are quite big, steep hills, and shouldnt be underestimated if you are planning on a walk up to the top of the first ridge (i.e. where the Monal restaurant is) then sturdy footwear, a large water bottle, and a change of t-shirt are necessary (good chance youll be drenched in sweat by the time you get to the top). Between March and November it is best to start walking in the early morning (before 7.30AM, or 6.30AM in the height of summer) as it is uncomfortably hot during the day. There are many trails to choose from, some of which have been numbered by the city planners. The more popular walks are Trail 3, Trail 5 and the Zoo Trail. Google Earth gives a good way to orientate yourself before you set out. Trail 1A & 1B This is the one of the less known treks and starts at the junction of the same treks where the treks 1A and 1B branch out. On the left is the Chountra Village and on the right is the Siniarri Village (GPS Coordinates 3344'29.66"N and 73 0'4.82"E). You start at the intersection behind F-10 and F-9 park i.e. at the first gate which is between the Army Headquarters (GHQ) and the Air force Headquarters (AHQ) but unfortunately since it is a sensitive and fortified area, you must be accompanied by Military or Air Force personnel with whose help you can traverse this path and reach the mouth of the two villages and proceed from there. It takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours (at an easy pace) to reach the top of the famous first Ridge of the Margalla Hills. Here you reach the Kot Jindaan Village and can further trek on the route to the Khanpur Village which is another 15 kms from here and roughly takes about 4+ hours.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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Since both of these routes are off the beaten trek thus the flora and fauna is amazing and is slightly different from the other later treks in the Margalla Hills. You also get to see many quarries which have actually ruined the Margalla Hills. This is indeed a painful site if you love the mountains. Thanks to Mr. Roedad Khan who has been able to get this nonsense stopped and is a famous name in the hiking and trekking circles of Islamabad. Trail 1C Again this is also a less known treks and starts at the junction of Margalla Avenue and the intersection of Air University (at the left) and Bahria University (on the right). You pass through this road and miss the Air Force Headquarters (AHQ) on the left and then National Defense University (NDU) at your left again. You go further north and almost reach the end of the road and hit the Kalinger (read Kalinjer) village (GPS Coordinates: 3344'34.13"N and 73 1'1.63"E). Incidentally, this route also lies between the Air Force Headquarters (AHQ) and the Naval Headquarters (NHQ) thus you again need to be accompanied by friends from one of these forces to pass through otherwise you may not be able to get beyond the security area. It take about 2+ hours to reach the top of the ridge and you can either return from the same path or descend in the valley to the East and return via the Trail 4B or the Faisal Mosque trek. This would take another 2+ hours if you want to take this particular path. Trail 2 / Zoo trail Trail 2 begins a little way up on the Pir Sohawa road (just past the Jungle Shack drinks bar GPS 33.73.46 N, 73.05.45 E) or you can start from the right of the entrance of the Islamabad Zoo. This is a good choice if you are looking for a 1 2 hour walk the trail leads up to the Daman-e Koh viewpoint if you want to continue walking a trail up to Cactus Ridge leads from next to the Police checkpoint near the entrance to Daman-e Koh. From Cactus Ridge you get a good view of where Air Blue flight 202 crashed on 24 June 2010. Saidpur trail This trail starts at the intersection of the Margalla Avenue and the Saidpur Village. Follow the river through the village (including ducking though some back alleys) and youll emerge in a valley and a trail that leads up to the Monal restaurant and hence you can easily do a loop coming down Trail 3. Saidpur trail isnt much used so it is largely free of litter. Trail 3 begins from Margalla Road, F-6/3 (the junction between Margalla Road & Ataturk Avenue). It is a little steep and strenuous in the first leg, which goes up to the Viewpoint and is about a 1.5 2 hour trek. After the Viewpoint, you can continue on for another easy-going 1.5 2 hour and reach the Pir Sohawa, where you can choose from 3 restaurants for food, The Monal, Tree house and Capital View Restaurant. This is the most popular walk, hence litter levels are high. Trail 4A / Dhoke Jivan trek: It starts from the spring in the valley below the 1 sharp turn on the road to Daman-e-Koh. It bifurcates soon after the start. The left trek, after about 7 kms joins up with Trail 4B. From this point onwards, Trail 4 starts. This trek leads to Gojri Bari and finally to Pir Sohawa Road.
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Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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Trail 4B / Faisal mosque trek: also known at the E7 or Faisal Mosque trail. Little used, in part because it is so difficult to find the trailhead. Head to the car park to the rear of the Faisal Mosque, and look for a gate with a Margalla Tree Planting Project sign next to it. Head through the gate, take the first right, then right again (at a grey metal box with a hole in the top) through a small clearing and turn left at the end. Walk north toward a large concrete water storage tank, and walk to the right of this on to a well-defined path (GPS coordinates 33.734112 , 73.038421) from here it should be plain sailing. Trail 4B wind its way up to the ridge, where you can turn right and reach the Pir Sohawa road, near the turn-off for Talhar village. It takes about 2 hours to get to the top. From Pir Sohawa road its a 20 minute walk to the Monal restaurant, and you can catch a taxi back in to town, or head down Trail 3 or the Saidpur village trail. Trail 5 also begins from Margalla Road in F-5 (about 500m down from Trail 3 opposite Judges Enclave) and is initially an easier trail to climb. Trail 5 connects with Trail 3 (via Trail 4) and meets beyond Trail 3s viewpoint. If you continue on Trail 5, you eventually meet the Pir Sohawa road (33.7675, 73.0771) although it is possible to get lost on Trail 5 and veer too far east, ending up on the top part of Trail 6. Either way youll eventually hit the Pir Sohawa road so its difficult to get truly lost. From the top of Trail 5 it is 1.5km to the top of Trail 3 hence you can do a loop, taking 3 4 hours. (Note: Both, Trail 3 & Trail 5 have large maps and guidance boards placed at the entrance). Trail 6 is in the valley to the east of Trail 5. Start from the Trail 5 car park, walk parallel to the blocked off dual carriageway heading east and then head north when you see the mouth of the valley. Walk past a small cluster of houses and then youll come across a sealed single track road, follow this for a short while and youll end up on the path, and follow this up the valley, ascending to the left side. Youll eventually end up on the Pir Sohawa road. From here you can head west to the top of Trail 5. The Trail is without signposts or markers, is little used but very scenic. Trail 7 The starting point of this trek is from the Car Park of the Trail 5 and ends at the Water spring which is about 5 kms in total. From the spring onwards, the less beaten path to the Murad Gali and all the way on the Pir Sohawa Road is the Trail 7 while not too many people know about this. From the water spring, the hike is steep and it roughly takes 2+ hours to reach the 3 ridge. Trail 8 This again is an off the beaten path and starts on top of the Ratta Hotar valley. I have not been on this trek and thus dont know much about this trek. This trek starts from Mandial Water Works and ascends rather steep for about 3 kms and then it is an easy walk to Pir Sohawa Rest House which is at 113 m or 3,850 feet. Total distance is about 7 kms from start to finish. Trail 9 or Bari Imam Trail for the more adventurous types, this is a good hike. Drive to Nurpur Shahan (east of the government complexes beyond the end of Margalla Road) head to a road junction at 33.7457, 73.1050 and turn left, until you reach a turnoff for a small guesthouse at the start of the trail (33.7569, 73.1135). The walk starts with steps leading up to the Bari Imam cave, then you can continue
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Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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up the steep hill behind, then traverse round to the Pir Sohawa road, where there are a few cafes and a hotel (33.7843 , 73.1107 it is about 5km from here to the Top of Trail 3 if you follow the road). You can return down the valley back to your starting point. Beware however that you pass into Khyber Pakhtunkhwa on the walk and you may have to charm yourself pass some policemen. Trail 10 Starts from the Kumlari village and goes all the way up to the Rumbli village. This trek starts from the Quaid-e-Azam University which is an elevation of 670 m or 2,200 feet. It is a narrow metalled road winding rather steeply up to Rumbli and Narias villages enroute to Pharilla village at an elevation of 1,473 m i.e. 3,850 feet. The total distance is roughly 8.5 kms. Trail 11 This climb is a metalled narrow road, about 5 km long starting from the same place as Trail 10. Beyond Rumbli at Sangra Ziarat, it turns right to Shahdra valley and connects with the road which meets Murree Road between Malpur and Bara Kahu. Trail 12 This is a 7 km long trek involving some difficult climbing. It starts from Shahdra valley and ends at Pharilla village.

Sources:
http://wikitravel.org/en/Islamabad
(Margalla Hills Society) http://roedad.com/mhs.php

Now lets return to the specific topic of this article. This time around, Dr. Group Captain Fahim Hashmi and Wing Commander Gohar Saeed invited us to join them on the Trail 1C i.e. Darra Kalinger Trek on 31st March 2012. Dr. Fahim Hashmi is a PhD in Material Sciences from Beihang University (BUAA), China and has recently joined NUST in the Materials Department while Gohar is a professional navigator at the Pakistan Air Force (PAF) respectively. I got up at 5:30 a.m. and said my Fajr prayers. I must tell you that saying your Fajr prayers gives a new strength and vigor to the body and your mind stays fresh for the entire day. After saying my prayers, I lied down for a while and got up again at 6:00 a.m. checked the weather forecast and then got Adil up for the hike. Since Adil was going to join us for the trek today, thus his Mamma also got up and made a sumptuous breakfast for us. She also packed a snack of Kebab Sandwiches for us for the trip. We left home around 6:45 a.m. and waited for our trekking buddies at the corner of Bahria University and Air University around 7:00 a.m. We later coordinated on our cell phones and were asked to come further North up the road passing Air Force Headquarters (AHQ) and National Defense University

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(NDU) on our left. We met right after passing the NDU and proceeded all the way to the car park near Kalinger Village. Since we had planned to ascend from this trek but descend on the Trail 4B i.e. the Faisal Mosque trek thus we decided to go behind the Faisal Mosque and parked my car there and came back in Dr. Hashmis jeep at the same starting point at the mouth of the Kalinger village.

(Starting point of Darra Kalinger Trek) We started the trek around 7:35 a.m. (although rather late as per our hiking standards) while passing through the Kalinger village.

(The marker at the start of Trail 1B and 1C)

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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Within 40 minutes of brisk walking, we reached most of the flowering trees like Bauhinia variegata, Ficus carica, and trees like Pinus roxburghii, Quercus leucotrichophora and started to enjoy the wild berries which sell at Rs. 80 per kg in the local market.

(Wng Cdr. Gohar and myself enjoying the wild berries) By 8:45 a.m. we had reached the water spring on this route and decided to take a water and snack break here.

(A fresh water spring enroute the Darra Kalinger) The surroundings of the natural spring were so serene and quite that we decided to stay a little longer than anticipated here.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(Gohar, Adil & I relaxing at the natural spring) We took a few more pictures at the spring before continuing our journey NorthEast.

(I am checking the density of the water) We started ascending North-East and after 15 minutes stopped by to take some more pictures.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(Gohar, I and Adil enjoying the flora of the Kalinger valley) By 9:25 a.m., we had reached the maximum height of the ridge and took a water break here too.

(I, Adil and Gohar at the summit of the Trail 1-B) From here you could see the route of the Trail 1B descending from the West towards this spot.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(Trail 1B descending to meet Trail 1-C) We stayed for some 10 minutes at this spot while Adil tried to have a go on Gohars sling shot.

(Adil having a go on Gohars sling shot) By 9:50 a.m., we had descended into a beautiful valley and headed towards the intersection of the Trail 4B or the Faisal Mosque trail.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(We have just entered the Trail 4B or the Faisal Mosque trail) By 10:46 a.m. we had reached another small natural spring where we took our next water break. We noticed a tree which has probably been burnt with a visible hole in the trunk.

(A tree which has been shamelessly burnt at the trunk) By 11:08 a.m. we reached a clear area from where we could see Islamabad and the rising Centaurus towers.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(A birds eye view of the Centaurus towers from the Trail 4B) By 11:30 a.m. we were descending fast and while walking took this picture of the changed flora of the environment.

(A beautiful sapling growing out to become a tree) We stopped here for 10 minutes and had sandwiches and oranges and enjoyed the serenity and peace of the valley. By 12:00 p.m. or so, we took our last picture at a beautiful spot while walking next to the stream which becomes full during the July monsoon season.

Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B

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(Shaikh with his 10 Gallon Colorado Hat posing next to a boulder on the way back on Trail 4B) We descended all the way on the Trail 4B behind Faisal Mosque, a little tired but had achieved two treks in one go. We reached my car which was parked at the Faisal Mosque parking lot around 1:30 p.m. and from there we proceeded to Dr. Hashmis abode for a hot cup of tea. After having tea, we reached home around 2:00 p.m. to share our accolades with the rest of the family. I am really thankful to Dr. Hashmi for inviting us to this particular trek which we had been planning since October 2011 and also to Wing Commander Gohar Saeed whose navigating skills we thoroughly enjoyed. Without these two gentlemen, we could not have hiked on this particular route. I would like to leave my readers with a thought that a writer is graced with the insights of others and charged with doing justice to those insights in print. I have done this in this article. There are many sources for my gibberish, quite a few working in deep background in the fabulous jungles of Philippines to the shores of the Pacific Ocean in Al Pueblo de la Los Angeles. Some information is spilled beans by my Intelligence sources but none would cross the line.

The Wandering Dervish

Shaikh Muhammed Ali

E-mail: dushkashaikh@gmail.com Cell: +00-92-321-5072996 22nd April 2012, 6:39 p.m. (PST)
Trail 1-C to Trail 4-B Page 13