Types of Sake

Sake Basics With just a few essential ingredients, the artisans of this most Japanese of drinks have skillfully managed to create an amazing variety of sake. Whilst at first glance the classification system may appear a tad bewildering, it doesn't take long to learn the names of the main categories. Knowing which category a sake falls into can help you make an informed choice when facing the drinks menu, understand what flavours to look out for, the recommended temperature to drink at, and a little bit more about the ingredients. To begin with Around 75% of the total volume of sake available is known as futsushu or regular sake, and varies a lot in quality. The remaining 25% or so is known as tokutei meishoshu, in this case special designation sake, which is generally regarded as premium sake. Sake in this category is given one of a number of special designations, which mostly depend on variations in the production process of the drink. A grain of rice Rice is of course the essence of sake, but the extent to which the grain is actually processed is different depending on the type of sake produced. As the outer part of the rice grain contains impurities which can impair the taste of the drink, this outer part is milled away during processing. With more of the rice grain milled away, the quality of the sake increases, but so too does the cost, as more of the grain is discarded. The percentage of the grain that remains after milling is known in Japanese as the seimaibuai, so a sake that has had 40% of its rice grain milled away will have a seimaibuai of 60%, making it a premium product. Another key factor in categorising sake is whether distilled alcohol has been added to the drink. Whilst regular sake can have quite a high percentage of added alcohol, for a premium sake only a small amount of this distilled alcohol, known as brewers alcohol, can be mixed in, if at all (a junmai categorised sake for instance, will have no added alcohol). Types of Premium Sake in Japan

Percentage of rice grain Flavour Requirement, etc remaining after milling Ginjo brewing method. Rice, koji, and Ginjoshu 60% or less Distinctive flavour and good brewer's alcohol clarity Ginjo brewing method. Rice, koji, and Daiginjoshu 50% or less Distinctive flavour and pristine brewer's alcohol clarity Junmaishu Rice and koji Flavour and good clarity Ginjo brewing method. Junmai Rice and koji 60% or less Distinctive flavour and good Ginjoshu clarity Ginjo brewing method. Junmai Rice and koji 50% or less Distinctive flavour and pristine Daiginjoshu clarity 60% or less Or special TokubetsuJunmaish Rice and koji Flavour and pristine clarity u brewing process Rice, koji, and Honjozoshu 70% or less Flavour and good clarity brewer's alcohol 60% or less Or special TokubetsuHonjozos Rice, koji, and Flavour and pristine clarity hu brewer's alcohol brewing process Types of Sake Ingredients

Sake Flavours
Sake Basics

The most important aspect of sake is of course, the taste. If youve only ever experienced inexpensive futsushu (regular sake), served piping hot, then you may well be unaware of the full range of charms and delicate flavours this drink has to offer. Thats not to say that futsushu should be dismissed, or that sake shouldnt be heated. There are a variety offutsushu that can be enjoyed and many types of sake can actually benefit from being heated as this can round out the flavours. Premium sake and in particular ginjoshu varieties are however, generally considered to offer a broader and more subtle range of flavours and aromas, with ginjoshuitself being characterised as lighter, sweeter, fruitier and more flowery than other variants. When the sake is served slightly chilled, these flavours and aromas can be appreciated more fully. The various combinations of tastes and aromas in sake can be just as complex as those in wine. Whilst the best way to get to know the characteristics of different sakes is to taste as many as possible, it can be useful to consider a few different ways of approaching sake tasting. Armed with a little knowledge of what to look out for will go a long way to understanding sake flavours.

The five flavours

Japanese tasters often assess a particular sake in terms of its go-mi, or five flavours. These are karami (dryness), nigami, (bitterness), shibumi(astringency or tartness), amami (sweetness) and sanmi (acidity). This system is derived from an ancient Chinese philosophy whereby consuming all five flavours ensures development of the five senses and five types of internal energy. Though there will be countless other flavours to be encountered with a certain drink, as a starting point this approach provides a manageable number of components to identify. Another more recent development in describing the taste of sake has been in the use of the term umami. Described variously as deliciousness, savouriness or meatiness, umami is caused by certain amino acids, in particular glutamic acid. It occurs naturally in a number of foodstuffs, including some sake. Renowned sake critic and journalist Haruo Matsuzaki has developed the idea of using flavour components to characterise a sake, and has formulated a sake tasting flavour wheel that invites drinkers to put eachsake in one of eleven categories depending on the overriding flavour characteristic. Matsuzaki has not only identified what he sees as the eleven key distinctions into which most sake can be categorised, but has also provided advice on how each type of sake should be served, and in what context, doing all the hard work so you dont have to.

Sake Flavour Chart

Mellow: Found among junmaishu,ginjoshu and Sweet: Sake in this category has a rich, sweet

junmai ginjoshu, thissake has a slightly rich, full flavour that spreads pleasantly over the tongue. Soft: Sake with a soft profile that is neither too dry nor too sweet, has few off flavours and includes certain ginjoshu, junmai ginjoshuand honjozoshu. Dry: Typified by certain ginjoshuand honjozoshu, this category ofsake has a clean, crisp and dry flavour.

flavour, and is oftenjunmaishu, or yondan shikomi, which has had additional steamed rice added. Full-Bodied: Often found amongstjunmaishu, this sake has a robust, earthy character and often high acidity. Rich: This category displays qualities such as great depth, high acidity and bitterness, and includes junmaishu, as well as yamahai and kimoto varieties.

Fruity: Fruity sake is best characterized by Aged: Sake that has been aged, and its aroma, and is found most readily consequently displays an inimitable solidity amongdaiginjoshu, ginjoshu and junmaiginjoshu. and richness. Fresh: Typified by certaindaiginjoshu, and in Other: Sake whose flavour is overwhelmingly particular nama daiginjo, this sake is influenced by one particular factor, such noticeably fresh and smooth on the palate. as taruzake (kegsake), nigorizake and those made using special brewing methods. Light: Sake that is generally lower in alcohol, but often higher in acidity to counterbalance. by Haruo Matsuzaki
Sake tasting for the specialists
While most people drink sake for pleasure, to some its much more than that. Sake tasting is known as kikizake in Japanese, and is taken very seriously, particularly at professional sake tasting events such as theshinshu kanpyokai (New Sake Appraisal Competitions) organised each spring by the Japanese Ministry of Taxation. Those who sample and appraise sake professionally dont just rely on taste, but use a range of the senses to get a fuller appreciation of the drink. The clarity and colour of the sake is assessed with the help of specially made, white porcelain cups called kiki-choko that have two blue circles on the bottom, used to gauge the clarity of the sake. Even the sound of the sake as its poured can be instructive to the well-trained ear. Whilst taste is of course the most important sense used when appreciating sake, without the sense of smell it would be impossible to taste properly.

Temperature
Temperature affects the taste of certain sake, not only because the nature of the drink itself differs as the temperature is raised or lowered, but also because the tastes that the human tongue can identify vary according to temperature. Our tongues are apparently most sensitive to taste sensations at 21 degrees Celsius, but this doesnt necessarily mean that this is the best temperature to consume all sakes, as allowing some tastes to come to the fore and downplaying others may improve a certain drink. Of the five tastes known in Japanese as go-mi, which are often referred to in sake tasting, amami, or sweetness, is most detectable when sake is around body temperature, or hito-hada in Japanese, but is much less discernable when the drink is chilled. Sanmi, or acidity, is understated in chilled sake, but remains a constant presence anywhere between 10 and 40 degrees Celsius, while nigami (bitterness) becomes more difficult to detect the warmer a sake gets.

Taste in harmony: What to look for in Sake

Aroma
Just as with wine, there is a lot of enjoyment and information to be gained from considering the smell of a particular sake. A myriad of different aromas may be detected in the bouquet, from the smell of rice through to more exotic aspects, including various kinds of fruit and flowers. In lower quality sake however, the overriding aroma may be that of alcohol, or a yeasty smell caused by deficiencies in the production process. Its worth noting that the aroma of a certain sake doesnt change that much at room temperature or below, even if a change in temperature within this range affects the taste.

Heating the drink however will have a considerable effect on the aroma, and this is why heated sake (known as atsukan) can have a prominent smell of alcohol.

Balance
One of the criteria most frequently mentioned when considering sake is whether or not the overall flavour of the drink is balanced. The word balance has actually been borrowed by the Japanese to use in this context, with the phrase baransu ga torete iru used to mean that the various tastes within the drink do not overpower each other, but exist in harmony. When deciding if a certain sake is balanced or not, it can be useful to refer to the five tastes of karami, amami, shibumi, nigami andsanmi, and decide if they are all present and if any one or two overpower the rest. Interestingly, while qualities such as floweriness and fruitiness are generally prized, particularly in premium ginjoshu, some might say that if these qualities come too much to the fore, they will upset the balance of the drink and overpower other flavours.

Tasting Terminology
The Japanese use a plethora of phrases and terminology to describe the various qualities of sake, and although by no means essential, learning a few choice phrases can help you to express yourself when tasting sake! Some frequently used terms can be expressed just as easily in English as in Japanese. These include the opposing pairs of karakuchi (dry) andamakuchi (sweet), tanrei (delicate) and hojun (rich), and karui (light) andomoi (heavy). Meanwhile nigiyaka is used to describe a lively sake, a liveliness that could be provided by freshness or an array of competing flavours. Moving on to the intermediate level, kuchiatari ga ii is used when a sakeimparts a pleasant impression when it hits the drinkers tongue. If the taste of the drink goes on to spread over the tongue in a pleasing manner, then the phrase fukurami ga ii may be appropriate. Marumi ga aru denotes a well-rounded sake with lots of flavour components and elements, while a simpler, cleaner drink may be described as hosoi, or narrow. Torotto shite iru is used to describe a sake that is mellow and relaxed, whereas tsun-to-kuru denotes one that, by contrast, stimulates the senses with a sharp flavour imparted by either acidity or alcohol content. And of course the finish of a sake is all-important. A drink that runs down the throat in a pleasant manner is described as nodogoshi ga ii, while a clean and generally pleasant finish is described as kire ga ii.

Sake: Hot or Cold

Sake Basics One of the questions that sakesommeliers get asked a lot concerns the temperature at which sake should be served. Is a hot steaming cup the way to go, or an iced chilled glass? To many experiencing sake for the first time, one of the drinks most novel aspects is that its frequently consumed warm or hot. Traditionally,sake was always served heated in Japan but in the past 30-40 years or so, things have begun to change slightly, with more and more sakebeing served at below room temperature. This development is not only due to changing fashions but also to fundamental improvements in production processes over the latter half of the twentieth century. Many sakes, and in particular the ginjoshu varieties that didnt really exist forty years ago, now have much more delicate and refined flavours and aromas, which can sometimes be lost if the drink is heated. Most sakes used to be much rougher, fuller, sweeter and woodier, and as such were well suited to warming.

Serving Temperatures
Whilst the only way to find your preferred serving temperature for a particular sake is to experiment, sake experts have placed different categories of sake into three basic ways of serving the drink to help guide you. These are kan or heated sake (also known as o-kan or kanzake),hiya, which refers to chilled sake, and thirdly sake which is served at room temperature. Kan Heated Sake Much of todays sake is still served warm or hot, partly because heating can mask unpleasant aspects of the flavour of the drink and make it more palatable; something which is often necessary in the case of the cheapest futsushu (regular sake). Premium sake on the other hand, with its more delicate character and subtle aroma, is not generally recommended for heating to high temperatures. One exception to this ishonjozoshu, which is premium sake that has had a limited amount of brewers alcohol added, and can have a lighter and smoother flavour when warmed. Both this and tokubetsu, or special, honjozoshu are thus suitable for serving at up to around 50 degrees Celsius. They may even be served at the highest serving temperature at about 55-60 degrees Celsius, without much of a detrimental effect on flavour. Heating any higher than this level though, is generally not recommended for anysake as the subtleties of flavour are lost, and the taste of alcohol becomes overpowering.

Junmaishu (pure rice sake) can be warmed to about 45 degrees Celsius, while junmai ginjoshu may be enjoyed at a lukewarm level of about 40 degrees Celsius. The only other type of premium sakeconducive to heating is taruzake, which is sake that has been stored or aged in a cedar cask. This may be served at up to the temperature level known as hinatakan, which roughly translated means as warm as being left out in the sun. Hiya Chilled Sake Sake experts generally agree that most premium sake is best served chilled, with the optimum level for ginjoshu, daiginjoshu, junmaidaiginjoshu and unpasteurized namazake considered to be suzuhie or cool, at around 15 degrees Celsius. This is the temperature at which the subtle flavours and fine fragrances of these refined sakes can be best enjoyed. They may be chilled further, to hanahie (flower temperature) oryukihie (snowtemperature) levels, however excessive chilling may dull the senses of taste and smell, and the subtleties of flavour and fragrance will be lost. Namazake, because it's unpasteurized, must be stored at below room temperature, and should never be warmed or heated. It can generally be served colder than other types of sake, with either suzuhie or the slightly colder hanahie being considered ideal.

Room Temperature
This third option for serving sake is in fact one of the most versatile. It's recommended for all but the highest quality ginjoshu and daiginjoshu, but even these may be served at room temperature without there being a detrimental effect on flavour, aroma and overall enjoyment of the drink.

History of Sake
More About Sake Sake took a few hundred years to develop after rice was first cultivated in Japan over 2000 years ago, with kuchikamizake one of the earliest forms of the drink on record. No machinery or technology required, just those with strong enough jaws and teeth who could chew grains of rice. This mouth-chewed sake would be spat into a vat and enzymes in the human saliva, along with natural yeast, would be left to produce an alcohol of sorts. Luckily for those of us who appreciate the finer points of the drink, more orthodox means of sake were developed as mentioned in the Kojiki, or Record of Ancient Matters in the eighth century. A brewing department was also established within the Imperial Palace in Nara, in A.D 689, as sake began the road to prominence. At this time though, the brewing process would still have been quite rudimentary with the whole of the rice grain being used including the brown, outer parts. It was also not until around A.D. 1000 that the koji-kinmould, required to convert the starch in the rice grains into sugar, was specially cultivated and added to the mash, rather than having to rely on it naturally occurring in the mixture. The Tamonin Diary, a record of daily temple life written between 1478 and 1618, mentions several aspects of brewing which are still used today. These include the process of polishing or milling rice, (to remove the brown outer covering to leave behind 100% white rice), the addition of ingredients to the fermentation mixture in three stages (sandan-shikomi) plus a form of pasteurization, in use a couple of hundred years before Louis Pasteur gave his name to the process in Europe. And the clear sake we know today, wasnt always so. 1578 was the first time that a sake had been filtered sufficiently to render it totally clear, making it the preferred tipple of the Shogun of the day. During the Edo period of Japanese history (1603-1868), a number of concerted improvements to the process were made, and sake was produced on a more industrial scale. While previously the job of polishing the rice had been done by hand, using a large pestle and mortar-type utensil or even by people stamping on it, waterwheels began to be used to drive rice-polishing machines on a much bigger scale. In addition, kan-zukuri, the practice of brewing sake in the winter only, (when conditions are best suited to its production), was introduced and continues to this day. From the days when sake was brewed at the Imperial Court in Nara, the most important area of sake production has always been in western Japan, and in particular, the city of Kobe and its environs in Hyogo prefecture. During the Edo period, this region was at the forefront of technological advancement and large-scale sake production. In Itami, an extraordinary statistic shows that in 1804, 5% of the towns households were sake brewers, and more than 20 million litres of sake were shipped that year to the capital, Edo (present day Tokyo). Itami was later overtaken by the Nada area of Kobe as the most important sake production centre, having the advantage of several rivers to drive waterwheels used in rice milling, and a port to allow easier distribution of the finished product. Roll on the twentieth century and a more efficient way to make sake with the introduction of rice polishing machines along with advancements in the fermentation process. In 1906 the Central Brewers Union began selling yeast specifically for use in sake brewing and in the 1920s, the wooden vats which had until then been used for fermentation, were replaced with more modern enamel variants. These modern vats didnt impart their own flavour on the sake, allowing for a purer taste to be enjoyed. What sake historians see as perhaps the only real retrograde steps in the history of sake-making came during the 1940s, at the height of war. Due to the restrictions and shortages this period brought with it, from 1943 brewers were forced by law to add pure distilled alcohol to sake. While this imperative was lifted after the war, brewers continued to add alcohol and sometimes artificial flavourings such as sugar and acids for good measure. Although the addition of small amounts of distilled alcohol had been developed as far back as the end of the seventeenth century, this was the first time in the history of the beverage that alcohol was added in significant quantities, and from then on sake with added alcohol has been treated separately from pure sake (junmaishu). Huge strides in technology now sees todays larger breweries using computer-controlled equipment to produce sake on an industrial scale, but the number of breweries fell during the twentieth century, from around 10,000 in 1926, to 1,742 in 1997. Production levels of sake itself were at their highest in the 1970s, when modern technology was becoming

widespread. They have gradually fallen since, perhaps due to the increase in competition from wine, beer and other alcoholic drinks. The most striking exception to this trend in recent years has been the increase in production and consumption of premium sake. Only since the 1960s has premium sake been commercially available, and whilst it still only accounts for a small portion of the total sake market, its continuing to grow. In spite of an ever-developing backdrop of technological advancement, many smaller breweries still retain traditional, time-honoured methods that involve a good deal more effort than modern production techniques. This is what makes sake unique to each brewery, as experienced brewers can precisely control the flavour of a sake, and produce a drink full of character, reflecting their craft and skills in the elaborate art of making sake.

Sake Culture
More About Sake

Sake and Japan

Sake has, over its history, developed a special cultural significance in Japan, so entwined has it become with the countrys customs and traditions When first produced over two thousand years ago, sake was revered and cherished and made as an offering to the various gods and deities of Japans indigenous Shinto religion. Indeed, for many years sake production in Japan was carried out for the most part within the Imperial Court, and the drink itself was only enjoyed on celebratory or festival days. Even though sake is now widely available and relatively inexpensive, the legacy of its historical importance means that it still features in many aspects of Japanese culture. Whether sipped by bride and groom during a traditional wedding ceremony or drunk to celebrate an election victory, sakes symbolic value is diverse and far-reaching.

Seasons
With the changing of the seasons comes an occasion to join friends and family to celebrate the spring bloom or an autumnal full moon, with a bottle or two of sake to complete these celebrations of beauty in nature. These traditions date back to when agriculture was the main industry in the country, with sake being served in a particular way depending on the time of year.

O-toso: Spiced New Year Sake

New Year, or o-shogatsu, is the biggest national holiday and celebration in the Japanese calendar, and of course, sakeplays an important part in the festivities. One of these is the ceremonial drinking of sakeinfused with a blend of herbs, which is said to ward off illness and bring harmony within the family throughout the coming year. This drink is called o-toso, and the tradition of drinking it originated in China. The herbs used in the infusion vary, but usually include cinnamon, pepper and sansho (Japanese pepper). Mirin (sweet sake) is often used nowadays, as its considered more palatable when combined with the herbs. O-toso is commonly drunk in a set way, early on the morning of New Years Day, by everyone living in a particular house. Its poured from a lacquer ware teapot into three lacquered cups, which fit inside each other and are drunk from in order, from the smallest to the largest. This set of teapot and cups is known as toso-ki. Its also traditional for the family to all drink from the cups in order, from the youngest to the oldest, so that the joy of the youngsters passes to their elders.

Shinnenkai and Bonenkai: New Year and Year End Parties

New Year is definitely the festive season in Japan. As well as the ceremonial aspects of New Year celebrations, a large number of parties are held among work colleagues and students. These are generally separated into two kinds. Bonenkai (which literally means year-forgetting party) are held during December, and as their name suggests they serve as an opportunity to put the worries and problems of the old year behind you. When the New Year has arrived shinnenkai, or New Year parties, are held. Historically seen as the drink worthy of offering to the gods, sake is drunk to ward off bad fortune and bring good tidings for the year to come.

Momo no Sekku: Peach Seasonal Festival

The Japanese have traditionally held five seasonal festivals throughout the year called sekku. Although the origins of these festivals are somewhat obscure, they

are believed to have come from China, and are rooted in Japans agricultural heritage, when they served to mark the various stages of the farming year. One of these is 3 March, which is not only the Hinamatsuri (Dolls Festival) but also Momo noSekku, (the Peach Seasonal Festival). On this date the tradition is to drink sake that has had peach blossom added to it, to ward off illness and injury. Shirozake (sweet white sake) is also drunk, which due to its colour is said to purify the body.

Hanamizake: Flower Viewing Sake

Few other nations take the spring season quite as seriously as the Japanese, who annually take time out to enjoy the spectacular displays of cherry blossom which engulfs the country for a precious few weeks each year. A day of hanami is typically spent whiled away underneath a cherry tree, drinking sake with friends. The tradition is said to have originated among farmers, whose annual labours typically began in springtime and who saw the cherry blossom as the mark of the mountain gods. Offerings of food and drink would abound, whilst asking the gods for a fruitful year ahead.

Tsukimizake: Moon Viewing Sake

Another celebrated scenario forsake drinking is to enjoy a glass or two by the light of the full moon, otherwise known as tsukimizake.Traditionally taking place in September and October,tsukimizake originates from the custom of offering produce such as dango and sake to the gods to thank them for a bountiful harvest. The moon had a special significance for Japanese farmers, used in effect to track time, its phases helping to determine when certain tasks should be carried out. Nowadays, although not widely practiced, drinking sake by moonlight is more of an aesthetic pleasure than a symbolic ritual.

Yukimizake: Snow Viewing Sake

As with hanami and tsukimi, yukimi is another Japanese tradition which involves drinking in the wonders of the countrys natural beauty whilst imbibing the national drink that is sake. Yukimizake means snow viewing sake and as you might have gathered, takes place in winter, with hot sake helping to keep the cold at bay.

Special Events
As well as a variety of traditional customs spread throughout the year,sake also plays a part in certain special events in Japanese life.

San-san-ku-do: Traditional Japanese Wedding Ceremony

Traditional Japanese weddings are usually conducted in the grounds of a Shinto shrine. The bride and groom, dressed in traditional Japanese kimono, both drink sake in a highly ritualized ceremony known as san-san-ku-do, which literally translates as three-three-nine-times. The couple each takes three sips from three special, differently sized cups, each one slightly larger than the other. The smallest of the cups represents heaven, the second the earth and the third humankind. Odd numbers are seen as being lucky in Japan, and in particular the number three, so drinking three times from three different cups is thought to be particularly auspicious.

Kagamibiraki: Ceremonial Breaking Open of a Sake Cask

At many formal celebrations in Japan, whether its the opening of a new building, an election victory or a wedding reception, its not uncommon to see a traditional cask of sake being broken open using a wooden mallet, before being shared among those assembled. This is calledkagamibiraki. Although the Japanese word kagami means mirror, its also used by sake-brewers to refer to the flat, circular lid of the cask, which is not dissimilar to traditional Japanese mirrors. This practice dates back to the seventeenth century, when Shogun (warrior leader of feudal Japan) Tokugawa Ietsuna gathered his feudal lords together before battle to drink sake together in the presence of their ancestors military regalia. The opening of the cask is said to bring blessings of health, prosperity and happiness to all present.

Jotoshiki: Pillar Raising Ceremony

When work begins on the building of a new house in Japan, its traditional for a Shinto priest to carry out a ceremony asking that the building remains free from calamities such as fire. This generally happens once the main pillars and beams are in place, and is known as the jotoshiki (literally, pillar-raising ceremony). All those involved in the building attend the ceremony, and drink some sake that has been made as an offering to the Shinto gods. Sake blessed in this way is known aso-miki, and drinking it is said to act as a means of receiving the spirit of the gods.

Sake Vessels
More About Sake For as long as they have been producing sake, the Japanese have developed a wide range of vessels for drinking and decanting the beverage, fashioned from a variety of materials including earthenware, porcelain, wood and glass. Vessels for drinking cold sake are collectively known as reishu-hai, and are generally, though not always, made of glass. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, including small, stemmed glasses that are often placed inside a square wooden box called a masu. Masu were originally designed to measure rice, and hold 180ml. In days gone by, sake was drunk directly from the masu, and still is on ceremonial occasions, particularly around New Year. Reishu-hai can also take the form of small glass tumblers featuring beautiful coloured glass and intricate cutglass design work, which is known in Japanese as kiriko. Warmed sake on the other hand, is most often served in earthenware or porcelain vessels. Made for millennia, Japanese pottery is highly collectable. The most commonly found pieces nowadays are small flasks called tokkuri, and even smaller cups called o-choko, into which the sake is decanted and drunk. Variations on the o-choko include guinomi, which are generally larger and deeper, and sakazuki, which are shallower and wider, and are used in traditional Japanese weddings. There are a number of other novel variations on the sake cup, which although are fun to use and very collectable, are not used on an everyday basis. These include bekuhai, which have a rounded base (sometimes with a hole in it!), so they cannot be put down until the contents has been completely drained, and often have faces painted on the bottom. Bajohai (literally horseback cups), are stemmed ceramic vessels, so called because they were considered easier for mounted warriors to drink from, while uguisuhai (literally bush warbler cups), are designed so that they emit a bird-like sound when drunk from. As an alternative to the tokkurimeanwhile, sake may be decanted from a katakuchi, which is a wide-mouthed vessel with a spout or lip on one side for pouring. Tokkuri A flask, usually ceramic, used to serve warmed sake. Although found in many shapes and sizes, they all have good insulating qualities and a narrow neck. O-choko Small ceramic cups for drinking warmedsake, just poured from a tokkuri. They only hold a mouthful or so of liquid, so require frequent refilling. Guinomi Can be used as a collective term for sakecups, but generally suggests a larger and deeper ceramic vessel than an o-choko, often with a fluted edge. Masu A small cedar wood box, from which sakeuse d to be drunk, but which nowadays often has a small glass of sake placed inside. Katakuchi A ceramic receptacle for pouring sake, which can be used instead of a tokkuri, and which has