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The first thing you have to decide is the size of your form. The choice is yours. 62 length will allow you to build any two piece rod 10 or less. If you are never going to build anything over 8, make a 50 form. If you want to build one-piece rods 8 or less, make a 98 form. Its up to you. If you are keeping track of these lengths, you will notice that the form is 2 longer than the maximum length of the rod. Reason: The first adjusting station is located 1 from either end of the form. Lets build a 62 form where each of the two finished pieces are 1 1/4 X 1 1/4 X 62. What we are going to do is mill a piece of wood 2 3/4 X 1 1/4 X 72. Why 2 3/4 wide? Reasons:
1. After we drill all of the dowel and pull holes we are going to rip it down the middle and the finish off the sawn surfaces back to 1 1/4. This will also ensure all of our holes line-up by drilling bamboorodmaking.com//wood_planin first. 1/7
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drilling first. 2. Why 72 length? Later when cutting the groove its nice to have the extra length for run-out of the cutting tools. When done cutting the groove on both sides, cut off the form to its 62 finished length. 3. Why a finished form, when closed, 2 1/2 wide? To me it gives you a much more stable surface to work from, especially when using grooved sole planes. With forms that are only 1 1/2 wide it is very easy for the sole of the plane to go over the edge resulting in a planed form. Also makes it easier to get the feel or sense how level you are planing.
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Dowel pins:
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I personally dont think they are needed but if it makes you grin, use them. Cut the hex heads off the 12 dowel bolts. Round the end of the shank. The length of the remaining shank on the bolt should be long enough to protrude slightly through or well into the form when the form is closed. I would suggest threading the same rail that the heads of the pull bolts are located. Some use floating dowel pins, if this is your choice I would point out that when you are drilling holes prior to rip sawing, use a smaller drill than the dowels for their location. Drill out the hole to snug fit size deep enough for the forms to close in each rail later.
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Objective: Cut a groove on each side of the form so that the slope of the grove is .001/ inch. so that tip station 12 and butt station 24 will be the butt end of their respective sides. With the Tip side up, open the form slightly, about 1/16, its entire length. With a 60 point installed on your Dial Indicator start at tip station 12 and set your Dial Indicator to 0. Move to station 11 and set the form so the DI reads .005 deeper. Continue towards station "0" setting each station so that the DI reads .005" deeper than the previous. Recheck your work. When you are done your readings will look like this:
0 .060 1 .055 2 .050 3 .045 4 .040 5 .035 6 .030 7 .025 8 .020 9 .015 10 .010 11 .005 12 0
Tip - Do Not change the setting of your DI, you will use it later to check your progress of cutting the groove. You also shouldnt need to change the setup to cut the grooves in the either side. Example: Tip side station 0 to have a .030 depth with the forms closed. You are finished cutting the grove in the tip side when ALL stations and every thing in between reads .090 with the above setup. You are finished cutting the groove in the butt side when ALL stations and everything in between when the DI reads .150 The resulting grooves will have slopes of .001/inch. Results: Closed form groove depth dimensions of the finished form: Tip side
0 .030 1 .035 2 .040 3 .045 4 .050 5 .055 6 .060 7 .065 8 .070 9 .075 10 .080 11 .085 12 .090
Butt side
12 .090 13 .095 14 .100 15 .105 16 .110 17 .115 18 .120 19 .125 20 .130 21 .135 22 .140 23 .145 24 .150
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You can see the lathe bit plane at the top of this photo. Objective: Mount a 3/8 60 lathe bit in a self-centering plane type hardwood block. The bit must be adjustable up and down. You will find out that very small cuts are best. You can push it or pull it but you must keep the bit centered in the gap of the form. Using Maple stock: Mill 2 piece 3/4 X 1 X 12 (stock for sides of tool) Mill 1 piece 3/8 X 1 X 12 (spacer stock) Mill 1 piece 3/8 X 3/8 X 12 (guide stock) Cut: 2 pieces 4 long from spacer stock. Cut remaining in half. Cut a 60 V bevel point on each end of the 3/8 X 3/8 guide stock, then cut in half. Lay one of the side pieces on a flat surface. Using the lathe bit and the two 3/8 X 3/8 as spacers place the lathe bit in the center with a 4 piece on either side followed by a V block on either side followed by one of the 2 scrap pieces. Glue the pieces without gluing the bit and V blocks. Glue the remaining side in place. When everything is dry trim the ends of the scrap pieces flush. You should now have a block approximately 1 high 12 long and 1 7/8 wide with three 3/8 square holes. At the center hole, drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole for a setscrew to hold the bit adjustment. The forward and trailing V guide blocks are needed to keep the bit centered in the gap. They must also be able to move up and down freely to follow the width of the gap. Drill a dowel hole at a location where the V blocks downward travel can not project more than 3/8 below the bottom surface of the plane. Glue a dowel leaving a projection out each side. Mount a flat spring pushing down on the dowel. You may want to mount a handle like a block plane or a dowel projecting to either side or simply round and sand the trailing edge of the plane. Just rounding works fine.
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File Plane:
The File Plane works on the principle of a parallelogram. The cutting tool is a three-corner file. Epoxy the file to one side of the parallelogram later. Mid way on the opposite side drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole. Now, with a 1/4-20 thumb bolt you can force the parallelogram apart. The short sides of the parallelogram are made from steel strap with 1/4 inch holes on about 1 1/8 centers. The long sides are slightly thicker than the flat width dimension of the file. The length will depend on the file you wish to use, probably about 6 or 7. Mill a piece about 24 long, you will use the scrap latter. The width will be about 5/8. Drill a 1/4 hole 1/2 from the ends. Cut a slot, thickness of strap material, in each end of the long sides. Using 1/4 steel dowel pins, length equal to thickness of long sides thickness, put the parallelogram together. The slots are cut deep enough so the long sides will come together. Now you can center and epoxy the file in place. Build a box, open top and bottom, to hold the parallelogram. The inside width will be the same as the thickness of the long sides of the parallelogram. The inside length will be the length of the parallelogram when the long sides are touching. The height will be slightly less than the total height of the parallelogram when fully extended, not including the file. Mill two 1/2 thick pieces of stock for the sides of the box. Cut two pieces from the left over scrap from the long side of the
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Bamboo Rodmaking two pieces from the Tips - Articles Area left over scrap from the long side of the parallelogram to a length equal to the height of the box. These are the ends of the box. Glue one piece aligned to the right hand edge of the side piece. Using the parallelogram as a guide with the long sides touching, position and glue the second end piece. Take the parallelogram apart. Glue the top piece, the one with the bolt hole, aligned with the top edge of the box and butted against the left end piece. Please note: The cutting direction of the file will be pointing to the left when assembled. Sand both sides of the piece that has the file epoxied slightly. We want this piece to be able to move up and down in the box, not a jam fit. Put the parallelogram back together with the files cutting grain pointing to the left. Glue the other side in place, add some 1/4 dowels for strength if you wish, trim off the ends, relieve the edges and sand. Round over the trailing top end for palm comfort.
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