Zardozi work( referred to as Goldwork in ancient times and metal work now) has captured human attention since

time immemorial. Delhi has been since long an important centre of this craft , since the muslim rule and even today it remains a hub of such activities. Zardoz communities have been living in and around delhi for centuries . After the end of the Mughal empire many artisans gave up the craft for other pastures but at the same time many new artisans started working on the craft giving it new forms and meanings and effort here is made to scrutinize the behavioural pattern of the craftsmen and understand how the zardoz community of today sustains themselves as well as the age old craft of metal embroidery.

METAL EMBROIDERY
THE METAL YARN: The material which has been used through centuries for zari work is Gold. Later, materials such as silver, copper, and other synthetic yarns were introduced to the art. The ductility of gold and silver allows the finest of the wires to be drawn- done by using flat, perforated steel plate called jantri. The holes are of gradually decreasing size. This operation is repeated and the wire is drawn through various sized holes until it acquires the desired breadth. Gold wire is referred to as zari, derived from the Persian word zar. Manufacture of zari- first stage is potai, which involves bar making and wire drawing, the bars are called pasa; in the next process tarkashi, the wire is drawn through a series of plates where dies are used; third stage is badla, the flattening process, the badla is the main variety of the drawn wire. MATERIALS USED IN ZARDOZI: Some other gold decoration used with zari in zardozi are- salma (a wire coiled in zigzag mannerused as appliqu or stitched on), kora (flexible coil, less lusture than chikna, cut into pieces and then stitched on), dabka (a coiled thin wire through which a threaded needle is passed), nakshi (similar to dabka, but thicker), chikna (flexible coil), gijai (stems of flowers and outlines usually done in this wire), zik (motif), chalak (motif), tikora, kangri (motif), champo, kinari, khichcha (a form of coiled, transparent wire- color threads passed through), tilla (a flat wire which cannot be threaded and is stitched on the material directly). Presently, precious and semi-precious jewels have been replaced by glass beads of different colors. Cleopatra Bupreslide Sternocera beetles are also called jeweled beetles. There wings are also used as embellishments in zardoz. Other raw materials- nalki resham (silk thread used for stitching zari); nalki soot ki (cotton thread used for stitching); plastic ka taga (polyester yarn); kachcha resham (floss silk); markins (cotton fabric used for lining); bukram (stiff cotton fabric used to give the raised effect); soot ki dori (thick cotton thread).

TYPES OF ZARDOZI WORK: Jhootha tar (nakli tar and asli tar) is the wire is made of alloy of silver and copper. Sachcha kam: work done with real zardozi Jhootha kam: copper plaited wire Nakli kam: lurex wire Plastic kam: polypropylene wire

Process- From design to Sewing: Zardozi is also called karchobi- which means framework. The frame is the main tool used in zardozi, rest of the tools being same as any hand embroidery. The frame has four wooden arms made of any form of hard wood. Its a slight variation of the Indian Charpai. The two vertical beams of the karchob are called farad- used mainly for rolling the cloth if need arises. The horizontal bars are called Shamsharak- used for stretching the fabric. The stand on which the karchob is placed is called the tipai. Another name for karchob is adda. Design traced on paper by pencil and small holes are punched on it at small intervals- these drawings are called khakas of which copies are made The pattern is then transferred on to the pattern from the pin pricked fabric with the help of tracing solutions such as zinc powder and water solution or neel (indigo de[ending on the fabric)

IMPORTANT CENTRES OF ZARDOZI IN INDIA: The main centers of zari are at Surat and Varanasi. Apart from real imitation and plastic zari thread, Surat and Varanasi specialize in making zari laces and borders. The centers at Jaipur and Ajmer specialize in zari gota and zari thappa work. Other important centers utilizing gold wire in various products are Delhi, Lukhnow, Patna, Hyderabad, Agra, Bhopal, Bareilly and Patna.

The Metal Yarn: The material which has been used through centuries for zari work is Gold. Later, materials such as silver, copper, and other synthetic yarns were introduced to the art. The ductility of gold and silver allows the finest of the wires to be drawn- done by

using flat, perforated steel plate called jantri. The holes are of gradually decreasing size. This operation is repeated and the wire is drawn through various sized holes until it acquires the desired breadth. Gold wire is referred to as zari, derived from the Persian word zar. Manufacture of zari- first stage is potai, which involves bar making and wire drawing, the bars are called pasa; in the next process tarkashi, the wire is drawn through a series of plates where dies are used; third stage is badla, the flattening process, the badla is the main variety of the drawn wire. Materials Used in Zardozi: Some other gold decoration used with zari in zardozi are- salma (a wire coiled in zigzag manner- used as appliqu or stitched on), kora (flexible coil, less lusture than chikna, cut into pieces and then stitched on), dabka (a coiled thin wire through which a threaded needle is passed), nakshi (similar to dabka, but thicker), chikna (flexible coil), gijai (stems of flowers and outlines usually done in this wire), zik (motif), chalak (motif), tikora, kangri (motif), champo, kinari, khichcha (a form of coiled, transparent wire- color threads passed through), tilla (a flat wire which cannot be threaded and is stitched on the material directly). Presently, precious and semi-precious jewels have been replaced by glass beads of different colors. Cleopatra Bupreslide Sternocera beetles are also called jeweled beetles. There wings are also used as embellishments in zardoz. Other raw materials- nalki resham (silk thread used for stitching zari); nalki soot ki (cotton thread used for stitching); plastic ka taga (polyester yarn); kachcha resham (floss silk); markins (cotton fabric used for lining); bukram (stiff cotton fabric used to give the raised effect); soot ki dori (thick cotton thread).

Types of Zardozi Work:

Jhootha tar (nakli tar and asli tar) is the wire is made of alloy of silver and copper. Sachcha kam: work done with real zardozi Jhootha kam: copper plaited wire Nakli kam: lurex wire Plastic kam: polypropylene wire

Process- From design to Sewing: Zardozi is also called karchobi- which means framework. The frame is the main tool used in zardozi, rest of the tools being same as any hand embroidery. The frame has four wooden arms made of any form of hard wood. Its a slight variation of the Indian Charpai. The two vertical beams of the karchob are called faradused mainly for rolling the cloth if need arises. The horizontal bars are called Shamsharak- used for stretching the fabric. The stand on which the karchob is placed is called the tipai. Another name for karchob is adda.

Design traced on paper by pencil and small holes are punched on it at small intervals- these drawings are called khakas of which copies are made The pattern is then transferred on to the pattern from the pin pricked fabric with the help of tracing solutions such as zinc powder and water solution or neel (indigo de[ending on the fabric)

Important Centres of Zardozi in India: The main centers of zari are at Surat and Varanasi. Apart from real imitation and plastic zari thread, Surat and Varanasi

specialize in making zari laces and borders. The centers at Jaipur and Ajmer specialize in zari gota and zari thappa work. Other important centers utilizing gold wire in various products are Delhi, Lukhnow, Patna, Hyderabad, Agra, Bhopal, Bareilly and Patna.