Extreme How-To Magazine - May 2012 (True PDF

Build an Entertainment Center with Pocket-Hole Joinery
The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement
HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

EQUIPMENT THAT MAKES THE JOB PAINLESS
PLUS:
RENOVATION TIPS FOR SUCCESS

May 2012 | www.extremehowto.com
$4.99US $4.99CAN
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ON THE SET OF EXTREME MAKEOVER: HOME EDITION REPLACE A BROKEN LUG NUT STUD
09281 03600
CONTENTS
May 2012
24
42
F E ATU R E S
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24 Big Stand for a Big Screen

How to Build a Sectional Entertainment Center with Pocket-hole Joinery
42 Handy Flooring Tools

Equipment to Simplify Your Next Installation
54 How-To with Heart

On the set of the Extreme Makeover: Home Edition playground project in Joplin, MO.
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CONTENTS
EVERY ISSUE
8 From the Editor 79 Advertisers Index
COLUMNS
10 Q & A 14 Do-It-Yourself
Renovation Tips for Success
D E PA R T M E N T S
68 Everything Auto
Replace a Broken Lug Nut Stud
72 Hot Products
76
cover photo courtesy Quick-Step
LETTER
I
From The Editor-In-Chief

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Matt Weber mweber@latitude3.com A DV I S O RY B OA R D Monte Burch Rob Foster Kathy Ziprik Mark Clement C I R C U L AT I O N Jennifer Pentecost
recently read an article in The Financial Times titled, The New American Dream: Rent, Dont Buy, bemoaning the state of the U.S. housing market. The story cites that the effective homeownership rate, which excludes borrowers whose homes are underwater, stands at 62 percent, down from 69 percent in 2006. The trend is one in which fewer Americans own the places they call home. According to the article, This dramatic change, triggered by the 2008 housing collapse, has shifted peoples views of home ownership Those who consider a home a safe investment fell from 83 percent in 2003 to 66 percent this year. While theres a no argument that the housing market is in sad shape, its the title of the piece that I think the author has wrong. Dreams are stubbornly irrepressible things. Although many Americans are facing the stark reality of a sluggish economy, I believe they still have hope for a brighter future. To tighten the belt in lean times, people may have delay major purchases as they rebuild their financial stability. And if the housing market is still in decline, then viewing a home purchase as an unsafe investment isnt so much abandoning the dream as it is an exercise in common sense. The U.S. may have to endure a painful market correction, but eventually home prices will stabilize and the public will readjust their priorities accordingly. When that happens, Americans will again pursue the longtime dream of owning a home. To suggest that their new dream is to rent is to suggest that Americans have in some sense given up. But the America I still believe in is one that cleared and settled the Midwest, won World War II and sent a man to the moon. I dont think were the type to surrender our dreams when we face adversity. Since youre reading a home-improvement magazine, Ill bet you agree.
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R Wesley Glassco
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EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT Chad Gillikin EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT Val Carrier Extreme How-To is published by LATITUDE3 MEDIA GROUP, LLC 1111 Edenton Street Birmingham, AL 35242 Phone 205.949.1600 Fax 205.949.1601 www.extremehowto.com
Extreme How-To (ISSN 1540-5346) is published and distributed monthly to DIY home improvement enthusiasts by Latitude3 Media Group, LLC, 1111 Edenton Street, Birmingham, AL 35242 (executive and editorial offices). All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission of Latitude3 Media Group, LLC. Subscriptions: U.S. and possessions: 1 year (9 issues $18.97); foreign, 1 year (9 issues $32.50) U.S. funds only. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Extreme How-To P Box 4320, .O. Oregon, IL 61061. SUBSCRIBER SERVICE: To order a subscription or change your address, write to Extreme How-To P Box 4320, .O. Oregon, IL 61061, or call 888-587-8911; or E-mail to ehtw@pubdmgroup.com; or visit www.extremehowto.com. To order back issues, call (205) 949.1603. The information in Extreme How-Tos editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change; therefore, Latitude3 assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures. Printed in the USA
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QA
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Q: A:
Got a
Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your Own How-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.com and click on Ask Our Experts.
Last week a loud screech started coming from beneath the hood of my car. Any idea what causes this?
A Capuchin monkey may have made a home in your engine bay. Otherwise, the screech is probably coming from a worn-out serpentine belt. Eventually the rubber of the belt wears out or weakens from exposure to oil and heat. A short-term solution for silencing the squeal is to spray a product called belt dressing onto the belt to lubricate it. However, this will only work temporarily and the noise will return. The best approach is a full replacement. Most serpentine belts have a springloaded tensioner, which you can loosen with a ratchet to unwrap the belt from the pulleys. (This will also be a good time to replace the belt tensioner.) Check all the pulleys for misalignment if the belt shows signs of Specifically formulated uneven wear. Replace the for ease-of-application, belt and tighten the tensionStandard Paints exterior er bolt according the torque Wood DefenderTM stains recommendations in your help protect and beautify vehicle owners manual. wood structures. With one coat you are assured of uniform application How far away from with no runs, drips or the house should back brushing. Mildew water be diverted with a resistant, Wood Defender downspout? stains contain ultraviolet inhibitors to stabilize wood Accumulated water color and provide long should be kept a lasting wood protection. minimum of 10 ft. away from Our products, techniques the house foundation. The and equipment are proven further away the water flows, the safer the home. This can by hundreds of successful be accomplished with downapplicators that we have spout extensions, splash trained. blocks or downspout drains. Furthermore, make sure the slope of the ground does not INQUIRE ABOUT EQUIPMENT, START fall toward the house. The UP PACKAGES AND TRAINING. slope should be graded away REGISTER TODAY! from the house, dropping 6 in. for every 6 ft.
Q:
A:
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Got a
Last week a loud screech started coming from beneath the hood of my car. Any idea what causes this?
A Capuchin monkey may have made a home in your engine bay. Otherwise, the screech is probably coming from a worn-out serpentine belt. Eventually the rubber of the belt wears out or weakens from exposure to oil and heat. A short-term solution for silencing the squeal is to spray a product called belt dressing onto the belt to lubricate it. However, this will only work temporarily and the noise will return. The best approach is a full replacement. Most serpentine belts have a springloaded tensioner, which you can loosen with a ratchet to unwrap the belt from the pulleys. (This will also be a good time to replace the belt tensioner.) Check all the pulleys for misalignment if the belt shows signs of Specifically formulated uneven wear. Replace the for ease-of-application, belt and tighten the tensionStandard Paints exterior er bolt according the torque Wood DefenderTM stains recommendations in your help protect and beautify vehicle owners manual. wood structures. With one coat you are assured of uniform application How far away from with no runs, drips or the house should back brushing. Mildew water be diverted with a resistant, Wood Defender downspout? stains contain ultraviolet inhibitors to stabilize wood Accumulated water color and provide long should be kept a lasting wood protection. minimum of 10 ft. away from Our products, techniques the house foundation. The and equipment are proven further away the water flows, the safer the home. This can by hundreds of successful be accomplished with downapplicators that we have spout extensions, splash trained. blocks or downspout drains. Furthermore, make sure the slope of the ground does not INQUIRE ABOUT EQUIPMENT, START fall toward the house. The UP PACKAGES AND TRAINING. slope should be graded away REGISTER TODAY! from the house, dropping 6 in. for every 6 ft.
Q:
A:
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Q: A:
Got a
How does manufactured stone compare with real stone veneer?
Manufactured stone, sold under brand names such as Cultured Stone, Coronado Stone, etc., is a mixture of cement, aggregates and pigments that is cast in molds made from genuine natural stone. Even on close examination manufactured stone generally looks and feels like natural stone. Manufactured stone weighs less than real stone, and its easier to install with a flat backside that lays flush with the wall, unlike than the uneven surfaces of real stone. Manufactured stone generally requires no additional footings, foundations or wall ties, which reduces installation time and usually results in a lower overall cost of installation if contracting the labor.
Q: A:
How large should grout joints be in tile?
Theres not a specific standard for the size of a grout joint, but there are some basic guidelines to consider. What is the amount of variation from tile to tile? Are the edges of the tile straight or irregular? How large is the tile? Is the sub-surface level? A tighter grout joint will show more variation, potentially revealing mistakes in the installation. Grout also exposes the differences in the angle of the surface. When tiling over a hump, the grout joint opens up and when tiling across a depression, the top of the joint narrows. Larger joints do a better job of concealing such discrepancies. Style is another factor. Lay tiles closely for a contemporary feel or space them widely for a more rustic look. EHT
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DO IT YOURSELF
Renovation Tips for Success

From managing time to managing finances, here are some tips to streamline your next remodel.
site. Thieves are not going to steal your new lumber if they know that you are at home, but if they know that you are only present on the weekends during daylight hours, then they will simply wait until the weekday and rob you blind. Security is not the only benefit that is provided by living in the home during construction. The other benefit is that it allows more time to work on the project. By living on site, you are eliminating the travel time, and the time to unpack and pack up your tools and equipment. It also gives you a lot of time in the evenings to work on your house, or at least to spend time conceptualizing how you intend to bring your project to completion.
Photo Rust-Oleum
By Clint C. Thomas, Esq.
TIP #2: MAXIMIZE YOUR TIME

with little past experience, and experience is what can make the difference between a successful, even pleasurable, renovation and a disaster. The following tips are the culmination of almost a decade of experience renovating and remodeling different houses. Time is a scarce resource, so it is important to ensure that the time spent on the renovation is productive. It is very easy to drag out a project for much longer than necessary. Over my familys many renovation projects, my children have heard me say the words we are burning daylight more times than they care to remember. The best way for a person to utilize their time is by planning ahead. Far too many people will sleep until 8:30 or 9:00 oclock in the morning on Saturday and then get up and go to the building supply store to buy their materials. This ends up wasting
ith the home buying market in the tank and tighter lending guidelines forced upon borrowers, many people are choosing to remodel their existing homes, or add on new rooms for additional space. Once again, thanks to an anemic economy, most homeowners dont have the surplus revenue to pay a contractor to do this work and are, instead, choosing to utilize one of the American peoples most valuable assets, our Yankee ingenuity. However, many people who are venturing into the realm of the serious DIYer are doing so
TIP #1: LIVE ON SITE

The first key to a successful project is to live in the house that you are working on, or at least live on the property if the home is not yet habitable. This serves two purposes. First, it helps to deter your building materials from walking off your job
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DO IT YOURSELF
half of that day or more. Another negative factor is that as the day progresses the temperature rises. This is welcomed in the winter time, but can be downright miserable during any other time of year. Therefore, plan ahead and go to the local box store on Friday night to purchase the materials
UNLOAD YOUR TRUCK IN 30 SECONDS!
Make the most of your time. Gather supplies the night before working, and get an early morning start to take advantage of the most productive hours of the day. Photo Rust-Oleum you will need for that weekend. This way, Saturday is devoted to working on your project and not running after supplies. This leads to the second point: Wake up early. We all love to sleep in, but get up at sunrise, eat a quick bite and get to work. Most people are much more productive and focused first thing in the morning, and cooler temperatures make the work much easier.
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TIP #3: WORK AROUND THE SEASONS

There is a time for everything, and summer is not the time to re-roof your house. Winter is not the best time to install ceramic tile. A little bit of advanced planning can save a do-it-yourselfer a tremendous amount of grief. Identify the projects that you would like to complete over the next 12-month period, and then decide which ones fit best with
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DO IT YOURSELF
which season of the year. Roofing projects and other heavy construction should be done in the early spring or late fall to take advantage of the mild temperatures. Tile work is best done in the summer since tile saws use water in the cutting process, and few people relish the idea of sticking their hands in ice cold water in the middle of winter. Exterior painting cannot be done in the winter and is best done in the spring or late fall.
TIP #4: DO IT ONCE AND DONT LOOK BACK

Careful planning can maximize productivity. For example, drying times can often cause work stoppage, but applying caulk, glue or paint at the end of the day can take advantage of the nightly off hours so youll be ready for the next phase in the morning. Photo Red Devil Before beginning any work, analyze it all of the way through by breaking it down into each individual step. Once you have identified the steps involved, try to arrange those steps in a
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logical and orderly manner. For example, perform all of the demolition work first, and I mean all of the demolition work. Everyone gets anxious to start making things new. It is tempting to jump at the first opportunity, but its counterproductive to install new trim or apply a fresh paint just to have it covered in dirt and dust. A handy tip to help eliminate dust during demolition is to place a box fan in an open window, pointing the fan so it sucks air from inside your house and blows it outside. Once all demolition is finished, sweep the floor in the direction of the fan, and it will suck a lot of the dust right out the window. In line with this same advice is to begin at the top and work downward. Far too many times people will paint the walls and then put down new flooring just to go back and have to paint the ceiling or install crown molding. This causes the new work to get dirty or spotted, or at a minimum, it causes the homeowner undue stress because they are trying not to destroy what they just completed. Also, dont be afraid to jump around. For example, while you are waiting on the paint on the ceiling to dry, prime the new door casing or install the new baseboards since they are not close to the ceiling. Then, while the baseboard caulk is drying, hang the new light fixture.
When it comes to power tools, you often get what you pay for. Professional-grade tools are more expensive than super center consumer tools, but they also perform better and last longer a worthy investment for the serious DIYer. Photo Fypon
TIP #5: LOOK FOR WAYS TO SAVE MONEY

Any remodel costs money. Often times it costs more than we planned to spend. Watch for sales, inquire about store discounts, such as military discounts, and if you dont qualify for any of the normal ones, dont be afraid to ask the store manager to give you a contractors discount if your project is a large one. Also, by planning ahead it is possible to stretch your construction costs over several months, thereby easing the strain on your wallet. Another added benefit to planning in advance is that you have more time to find a sale on supplies required for your job.
TIP #6: INVEST IN QUALITY TOOLS

Tools are a capital investment. It costs money to buy them, but in the long run they can save you thousands of dollars in labor costs. The best way to purchase tools is one at a time. The most sensible strategy is to start out with a basic battery and supplement this on each and every project by buying tools as you need them.
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Beware, because all tools are not created equal. Always purchase professional-grade tools. They do cost more, but they are better made, offer superior performance and will last much longer than the weekend-warrior series. Remember that tools can consist of more than just what you hold in your hands. They can include ladders, scaffolding, sawhorses and the like. Birthdays and Christmas are good times to rack up on such things. Years ago, my wife and I bought some rolling scaffolding as our present to each other one Christmas. The rest of our family laughed at us, but it has been well used since and is worth its weight in gold.
Most typical homeowners hazard policies only cover completed work. Many mainstream insurance companies will not even underwrite a house that is under construction, but it is imperative to have both liability and hazard insurance during the construction process. Numerous secondary companies exist that will underwrite such homes. Ask your regular insurance agent for suggestions on whom to contact if their company doesnt issue such policies.
TIP #8: KEEP ACCURATE RECORDS

One of the last things anyone wants to think about are income taxes, however, the burden they impose can be reduced by keeping accurate records. Additions and improvements to ones real estate will increase the cost basis for tax purposes. Cost basis is the amount that a buyer pays for their property plus any capital improvements to that property. Capital improvements do not include ordinary repairs
TIP #7: MAKE SURE YOURE COVERED

If your project involves new construction or a room addition, make sure you have some form of homeowners insurance to cover the work you are doing while it is under construction.
Its smart to be covered with the appropriate insurance. If your insurance agent doesnt offer both liability and hazard insurance during the construction process, numerous secondary companies exist that will underwrite such homes. Photo DaVinci Roofscapes www.extremehowto.com
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and maintenance. For example, if a person buys a capital asset for $100,000 and then sells that same asset for $130,000 the $100,000 purchase price is the cost basis and is not subject to income taxes. The $30,000 difference between the cost basis and the selling price is the owners capital gain and this is subject to income taxes, unless it is the result of selling their primary residence and meeting the five-year time requirement. However, if the same house (say its being used as a rental) is purchased for $100,000, has $10,000 of capital improvements, like a room addition, and is then sold for $130,000 the owners cost basis increases to $110,000 which, in turn, reduces their taxable capital gain to $20,000. In order to take advantage of this increase in cost basis it is necessary to maintain accurate records for all of the work done. You cannot deduct your own labor, but you are able to include the actual costs of the materials used as part of the improvement. Therefore, keep all of your receipts together, and it is recommended to keep a running total of all of your expenses for easy reference in the future. EHT
When remodeling a home, keep track of your receipts which can reduce your capital gains tax when you sell the house.
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The Shini ng War ner Bros.
BIG STAND
By Matt Weber
FOR A BIG SCREEN

How to Build a Sectional Entertainment Center with Pocket-hole Joinery
lat-screen televisions are all the rage for dens and living rooms, but the larger versions in the 4- to 5-ft. range can outsize the old entertainment stand that held the former, smaller TV. A wider stand can give the entertainment area a better sense of visual balance while providing storage for a cable box, Blu-ray player, game console and more. After seeing the high price of several furniture-store entertainment centers, I decided to build my own to save some cash. Im more of a wood tinkerer than a seasoned woodsmith, so I wanted a design that would provide adequate storage and organization while also requiring fairly basic carpentry skills that I could accomplish without pulling out my hair. After scouring the internet I found such a design at www.woodsmith.com, where the website offers free downloadable building plans for a Sectional Entertainment Center. This proved to be an excellent resource, and if you plan to build this piece of furniture, I
recommend you visit their site for the original plans, complete with detailed illustrations and additional instructions for creating matching side cabinets and even some frame-and-panel doors for the center. However, the existing building plan was specific to a 42-in. wide entertainment center. I had a 52-in. TV and wanted a 54-in. center to support it. The plans detailed here have been modified from the original design to achieve the 54-in. width. This article will show the tools and techniques I used to take the project from a pile of boards to a finished piece of furniture.
POCKET HOLES
With few exceptions, this entire entertainment center was built using pocket-hole joinery. Pocket-hole joinery relies on a simple two-step process to create a very strong wood joint. First, use the pocket-hole jig with a special stepped drill bit to drill the pilot hole. The
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BIG STAND
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Shown are the components of the entertainment centers case or carcass. The end panels are attached to the top and bottom panels with pocket screws.
jig clamps to the workpiece to guide the drill bit at a steep offset angle into the wood. The bit has a 3/8-in. diameter shank and features a shoulder with a narrower tip. The shoulder of the bit drills a countersink for the screw head, while the narrow tip drills the pilot for the screw tip. A collar on the bit stops the drilling at exactly the right depth
for the screw. With this type of wood joint, youll only need to drill one work piece. Then, simply align your work pieces and drive home self-tapping, squaredrive screws for a rock-solid connection. For this project I used a new pocket-hole jig kit from General Tools & Instruments that includes everything neededthe drill bit, the driver bits, the jig and even some screws.
BUILDING THE CARCASS

The basic case or carcass of the entertainment center consists of two end panels connected with a top and bottom plywood panel and a plywood center divider. The rails and stiles of the end panels, as well as the face-frames and finished top are constructed from solid 3/4-in. oak. My first step was to cut all the components to size on my miter and table saws, and label
My first step was to cut all the components to size on my miter and table saw.
the different pieces. (Cut list on page 37.) After cutting the plywood end panels to size, I ran them over a router table to cut a 1/8-in. rabbet along the outside edges. When I screwed and glued the oak rails and stiles to the plywood panels, the rabbet created a shadow line to add some decorative flair. The stiles are flush with the upper rail but extend past the lower rail to serve as legs for the entertainment center. Note: It helps to face-clamp the corners of the rails and stiles flush when assembling the panels. Use some quality wood glue in conjunction with the pocket holes, but do so sparingly to minimize cleanup. Also, be sure to drill your pocket holes on the interior of the panels (the side without the rabbet). Once assembled, the end panels can be joined with the top and bottom of the carcass to create a rectangular box. I
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BIG STAND
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drilled pocket holes around the perimeter of both the top and bottom panels, to join the end panels and eventually to the face-frames at the front and rear. Before drilling the new holes, refer to the fastener locations on the end panels to make sure you avoid drilling in spots where you already have pocket screws. Also, locate your holes on the sides of the panels that will face the floor (on the bottom panel) or be concealed by the solid oak case top. The top panel is mounted flush with the top and inside edges of the end panels, secured with glue and nails. To hold the end panel square to the top, I made a couple of right-angle plywood braces that I locked into position with some wood clamps while I drove the screws. With both panels attached, I flipped the U-shaped carcass
The different components can get confusing, so I labeled the pieces with masking tape for easy identification during assembly.
A circular saw with a rip fence is a good tool combo for cutting large panels.
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of edging is also used on the leading edge of each shelf. I attached the edge strips with wood glue and countersunk finish nails, filled with putty and
sanded clean. To position the divider flush with the front edge of the case, I reenlisted my rightangle braces and wood clamps. Note that the divider is not
When cutting the panels, support the plywood from beneath to protect the work surface.
I routed the 1/8 rabbet around the plywood end panels to create a shadow line.
upside-down to install the bottom panel flush between the ends. To create a toe-kick area at the bottom of the entertainment center, the top of the bottom panel is positioned even with the top edge of the lower rails. To hold the bottom in position while I drove the pocket screws, I had to clamp a couple of temporary cleats onto the end panels to support the plywood. This step also required a 7-ft. pipe clamp to draw the two end panels snugly against the bottom panel. Next step is to install the case divider, but first I cut a strip of 1/4-in. 1x solid oak edging to conceal the exposed plywood edge of the divider. This type www.extremehowto.com
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joined with pocket holes. I attached it with wood screws driven through the top and bottom panels and into the upper and lower edge of the divider. From inside the case, I then drilled pocket holes along the edges of the end panels to connect with face-frames.
I fastened the rails and stiles of the end panels with glue and pocket screws.
Face-frames give the front and back a finished look while adding structural integrity.
FACE-FRAMES
The front and rear face-frames are assembled with pocketscrewed butt joints, similar to the rail-and-stile end panels. Again, face-clamp the butt joints when fastening. Note that the frames are not identical. The rear frame has a taller lower rail to create as a storage trough for wires and cables. Position the lower rail edges of each faceframe 1-1/2-in. above the bottom ends of the stiles to create
I used a jig from General Tools & Instruments to drill all the pilot holes for the pocket screws.
With the end panels assembled, you can connect them to the top and bottom panels.
I clamped on some right-angle plywood braces to hold the top square while I drove the pocket screws.
legs for the entertainment center. To line up the face-frames flush with the edges of the case, I used a variety of clamps and spreaders to nudge the wood into position. Apply wood glue at all the seams and fasten with pocket screws through the top, bottom and end panels. Minor problems when the faceframes are out of plane with the case can be touched up with a random orbital sanderbut proceed gingerly to avoid rounding a corner or misshaping the edge. The shelves are supported by shelf-standards and spoon-style shelf pins. The shelf standards have a series of identical 1/4-in. holes for the pins so the shelves can be arranged at a variety of heights. The standards also serve double-duty by covering most of the pocket holes inside the case. I ripped the solid oak standards to 3/8-in. thick on my table saw (eight are required) and crosscut them to size. Its crucial that the position of the pin holes be
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BIG STAND
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identical among all the shelf standardsotherwise a shelf will sit crooked. To make this happen, I used masking tape to tightly wrap all eight standards into a single block. I marked off the holes 1-in. apart and drilled the block in sequence using a drill press with a guide fence. If no drill press is available, a handheld drill will work in a pinch, but be careful and keep the bit plumb when drilling. The shelf standards can be glued in place without nails or screws. This is easy to accomplish on the front, where any standard C-clamp will work. However, the rear standards align with the back of the divider, which doesnt extend all the way to the back of the case. This prevents the use of C-clamps, which wont reach.
To attach the bottom panel, I used temporary cleats to support the plywood and a 6 pipe clamp to draw the end panels together.
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The experts at Woodsmith.com suggest a clever solution for clamping the rear standards (I cant claim credit for this). To hold the standards in place, use thin strips of wood cut slightly longer than the width of the cabinet area. Bow the strips to fit them between the standards. The outward pressure of the bowed strips keeps tension on the standards to hold them in place while the glue dries. With the standards installed, I then used the bowed strips to glue the upper and lower backsupport strips flush with the rear of the standards. The flush 3/8-in. frame created by the rear edges of the standards and support strips provides the mounting surface for the back panels. The back panels are made from 1/4-in. plywood. I
When fastening the panels, be careful to avoid intersecting your pocket holes.
I used plywood braces to position the center divider.
The face-frames attach to the front and rear.
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To learn more about the advantages of synthetic moulding and trim, visit our blog:
fyponblog.extremehowto.com
BIG STAND
FOR A BIG SCREEN
The top consist of three layers, with the uppermost built from solid 3/4 oak, glued and screwed together. cut three 1-in. slots through each panel using a hole saw and jigsaw. The slots will route wires and cables from the electronics to the storage trough between the back panels and face-frame. Glue the back panels in place along their outer edge.
FINISHED TOP
To create a shadow line with the same visual theme as the rabbeted end panels, the case has a layer of 1/8-in. thick spacers placed between the top plywood panel and the solid oak panel. To keep the shadow line
I used a variety of clamps and spreaders to encourage the face-frames to align flush with the edges of the case.
Slight shoulders between the face-frames and case can be flattened with an orbital sander.
1/8-by-1/8 in., I cut the spacers 1/4-in. smaller than the perimeter of the table top. For example, to accent my 54-by-24-in. top, I made the spacers with a 53-3/4by-23-3/4-in. outside perimeter. When centered on the case and covered with the solid top, the spacers create a 1/8-in. square channel. I ripped the spacers from some scrap poplar stock and clamped them in place, fastening with glue. Run a center spacer down the middle to help support the middle of the solid oak top. I constructed the solid top from 1x dimensional oak lumber, edge-joined with wood glue and pocket screws. The top is built to match flush with the edges of the case. I fastened the oak top by drilling countersink pilot holes from beneath the plywood top. I then cinched it in place with panhead screws.
Attach the face-frames with pocket screws to the top, bottom and end panels.
The shelf standards were ripped to 3/8 thick from solid oak.
I taped the standards into a single block and drilled all the shelf holes at once using a drill press.
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BIG STAND
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Almost the entire entertainment center is constructed with pocket-hole joinery. To sand the top completely smooth, I used a random orbital sander, starting with 120-grit abrasive and graduating to finer grits. Finally I cut the shelves to size, cut a slot in the rear of each for wire access, and added the solid oak edging. Before staining, sand the entire case with progressively finer abrasives. I recommend wrapping up with a sanding
To hold the rear standards and back supports in place while the glue dried, I used bowed strips of wood as tension clamps.
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www.extremehowto.com I cut wire slots in the rear panels and fastened them with quality wood glue.
CUT LIST
End Panels (2) 3/4 ply. x 20-1/2 x 21-1/8 Upr. End Rails (2) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 20-1/2 Lwr. End Rails (2) 3/4 x 3 x 20-1/2 End Stiles (4) 3/4 x 1 x 27-1/8 Case Top/Btm. (2) 3/4 ply. x 22-1/2 x 52-1/2 Center Divider (1) 3/4 ply. x 19-1/4 x 21-7/8 Divider Edging (1) 3/4 x 1/4 x 21-7/8 Front/Back Stiles (4) 3/4 x 1-3/4 x 27-1/8 Upper Front Rail (1) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 50-1/2 Lower Front Rail (1) 3/4 x 3 x 50-1/2 Upper Back Rail (1) 3/4 x 3/4 x 50-1/2 Lower Back Rail (1) 3/4 x 6 x 50-1/2 Shelf Standards (8) 3/8 x 2-1/2 x 21-7/8 Back Supports (4) 3/8 x 1-1/2 x 25-1/8 Back Panels (2) 1/4 ply. x 20-1/4 x 26 Shelves (4) 3/4 ply. x 19 x 25 Shelf Edging (4) 3/4 x 1/4 x 25 Top Spacers 1/8 x 1-1/2 strips Top Panel (1) 3/4 x 24 x 54 (1 pkg.) #8 x 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws (16) Spoon-Style Shelf Supports (12) #8 x 1-1/2" Pan-head Screws (8) #8 x 1-1/2 Wood screws
The decorative top panel consists of three layers: plywood top, 1/8 spacers (shown) and the final solid oak top. The spacers create a shadow line.
The decorative top panel is built from 3/4 solid oak stock, glued and pocket screwed. www.extremehowto.com
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BIG STAND
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block, which can remove the tiny swirl marks left by circular sanders. I then finished the entertainment center with a coat of cherry-toned wood stain and several coats of polyurethane. EHT Sand the entire entertainment center with progressively finer abrasives.
I fastened the top from below with pan-head screws from GRK Fasteners.
Solid oak edging was glued to the nose of each shelf.
I finished the case and shelves with a cherry-toned wood stain and several coats of polyurethane.
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By Matt Weber
ver the course of many years and many flooring jobs, the EHT staff has developed a list of favorite flooring tools that make the job as painless as possible. This article highlights some recommended equipment for laying down new tile, laminate or hardwoods.
photo courtesy ElastilonUSA
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Straight Edge. Theres nothing exciting about a basic straight edge, but we include it in this list because this simple tool is criminally overlooked by DIYers. Tile and tongue-and-groove flooring require a very level subfloor for a proper installation that prevents problems in the future. Gaps between the sub and finished floor can lead to squeaks and pops in wood, or cracks in grout jointseven worse, broken tiles. A good 4-ft. straight edge may suffice, but the longer, the better for detecting dips and high spots that must be leveled before installing a new floor. Scrapers. Many flooring products are installed with a strong adhesive. From vinyl flooring and tile to carpet padding, when pulling up an old floor for a new installation, there is often a lot of sticky stuff to remove. A good, sharp scraper will help separate old adhesive from the subfloor. Manufacturers such as Hyde Paint Tools offer a wide assortment of scrapers in a variety of
sizes and styles, such as angled blades and tools with extension handles. (www.hydetools.com) Some manufacturers now offer scraping attachments that attach to a reciprocating saw for a powered approach to floor prep.
A straight edge can be used to gauge the flatness of the subfloor, which is a critical first step for any new installation.
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Knee Pads. Knee protection is another piece of equipment that is often overlooked until about ten minutes of working without it. We typically use smooth-face knee pads that wrap the legs with a hook-andloop strap, but anything that softens the blow will work. Weve know some pros who prefer to rest their knees on a big block of polyester foam because they dont like anything strapped behind their knees. A new option is wheeled knee pads that make it easy to move over smooth flooring. Block and Pull Bar. Two staple items for installing tongue-and-groove flooring are a rubber tapping block and a pull bar. The block protects the edge of the flooring plank while you hammer together the interlocking joints. (In a pinch, you can make your own block from soft wood.) The
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S-shaped pull bar hooks the end of a floor board against a wall, to pull together the joint when there is no clearance for the hammer and block. Lumber Liquidators offers an installation kit for T&G flooring, which includes both a block and pull bar, plus 20 adjustable plastic spacers to provide an expansion gap around wood floors. (www.LumberLiquidators.com)
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Lam-Hammer. The drawback of using a hammer and pull-bar is that its time-consuming to gingerly tap the lip of the bar to pull a floor joint closed, being careful not to damage the wall on the backswing. An alternative to the basic pull bar is a Lam-Hammer. This simple tool consists of a handle, a hook and a slide hammer that pulls together flooring much quicker and easier than swinging a hammer near a finished wall. For tongue-and-groove flooring, just hook the end over of the edge of the floor board and use the integrated slide hammer to tap it away from the wall, closing the joint with the preceding board. (www.lam-hammer.com) Layout Laser. Crosshair-type flooring lasers can be a great help when laying out floor tile with dead-on accuracy. These simple-to-use lasers emit 90degree laser lines to help set up string or chalk lines to guide the installation. Some lasers, such as the Bosch unit shown, even switch to a 45-degree mode to verify positioning of square tiles between 0 and 90 degrees. The lasers are designed for easy visibility over a wide range of flooring materials, including stone, wood and carpet. Accuracy is usually within 1/4-in. per 60 feet. (www.boschtools.com)
Wet Saw. Tile and stone is tough to cut, but a quality wet saw equipped with a diamondgrit blade can cut the material with the speed and accuracy of a circular saw. Wet saws are available in handheld models as well as table saw versions in which the user can either draw the blade over the tile like a bridge saw, or push the tile into the blade, as with the MK Diamond model shown. The water system cools the blade
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at a faster rate for superior cutting performance in ceramic tile, brick, marble, stone or other abrasive construction materials. (www.mkmorse.com)
to prolong cutting performance, whereas the heat from dry-cutting would otherwise quickly wear out a saw blade. (www.mkdiamond.com) Jigsaw. The blade of a standard circ saw is often too large to make small cuts or intricate notches needed to wrap a piece of flooring around a corner, cabinet or pipe. Plus, the spinning nature of the blade often leads
to an unwanted over-cut when trying to meet two cuts at an angle. A better choice is a jigsaw, where the vertically reciprocating blade can make straight, intricate cuts with greater control and precision. Diamond-grit Blades. Diamond-grit blades and hole saws are your go-to accessories for cutting stone and tile. Diamond-grit products provide alternative cutting solutions to hole saws, circ blades and recip blades made of carbide grit, bimetal and carbide tips. The diamond-enhanced cutting surface removes more material www.extremehowto.com
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Oscillating Multi-tool. With home remodels, the knee bone is connected to the leg bone, and floor installations are no different. When you tinker with one aspect of the house, other parts of the home are affected. One of the common unintended consequences of installing a new floor is the increased height of the
...AND THEY SAID YOU COULDNT DO-IT-YOURSELF!

finished surface, which often wont fit beneath existing door casings. A handy tool to trim door jambs is an oscillating tool equipped with a flush-cutting wood blade. But the fun doesnt stop there. These multifunction tools can be equipped with a variety of different blades for cutting off pipe, removing grout, sanding, making electrical cutouts and much more. Flooring Finish Nailer. Ideal for securing the first and last few rows of T&G flooring, a flooring finish nailer features an angled tip for a better line of sight and precise placement when blind-nailing the pocket of the tongue. We recently tested the new Duo-Fast FloorMaster 250BN Hardwood Flooring Finish Nailer, which has a 45-degree detachable nailing guide that can be replaced with a flat tip for face-nailing. The gun
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includes no-mar pads that prevent scratching and denting the floor, plus a bump-fire actuation for speedier fastening. The depthof-drive feature helps eliminate tongue splitting, and the nailer uses 16 gauge-finish nails so it leaves a smaller, less visible hole when face-nailing. (www.itwindfast.com) Flooring Stapler. Once youve installed the first few rows of T&G flooring, youll have enough clearance to employ the tool of choice for most professional flooring installersa pneumatic flooring stapler. DIYers can usually find floor staplers available at rental outlets. Powered by an air compressor, these malletactuated fastening tools secure the joints with a rock-solid connection using 14- to 16-gauge wire staples up to 2 in. long. A quality floor stapler is a worthwhile investment for a flooring professional, and a recommended rental item for DIY installers because of the time and labor saved, when compared to handnailing.
QuikJack. Bowed boards can put the brakes on a flooring job, requiring you to scrap them, cut them, or stop your nailing progress and wrestle them in place to eliminate between-theboard gaps. You can solve the problem of bent boards with the QuikJack from Cepco Tool. This simple board-bending tool clamps to a 2x4 to push against the wall as you crank the jack handle, extending the QuikJack which muscles bowed boards flush with the preceding row and holds them in place while you fasten securely. If youre working in close proximity to a wall, just ditch the 2x4 extension and use the QuikJack alone. (www.cepcotool.com) Skil Flooring Saw. The new Skil Flooring Saw is equipped with a high-RPM motor, similar to a grinder motor that turns in the neighborhood of 11,000 RPM to achieve fine cuts with a small diameter blade. This equates to high productivity in a small, lightweight package that offers the ability to make rips, miters and cross-cuts right on the floor where youre workingno more hustling back and
forth to a workbench or table saw. The saw slides along dual rails for superior accuracy and easy operation. Its easily portable, highly versatile and cuts flooring up to 3/4-in. thick with pinpoint accuracy. (www.skil.com)
Elastilon Strong. This selfadhesive technology simplifies wood flooring installation by eliminating the need for wood subfloors, nails or messy adhesives. Its suitable for use with most species and thicknesses of wood flooring. The floor boards are secured in position on the protective surface of a polyethylene membrane. This protective
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surface is peeled from beneath the flooring, allowing the floor to rest directly onto the adhesive surface. This forms a solid
contact between the two surfaces. This permanent seal creates continuous tension across the boards to reduce gapping, warping or buckling. The polyethylenes elasticity allows the Elastilon to move with the woods natural expansion and contraction to always keep the wood joints tight. The 1/8-in. membrane reduces airborne and impact sound transmission, increases thermal properties, provides underfoot comfort and can be walked on immediately after installation. (www.elastilonusa.com) Exakt Mini Saw. A cool new tool we came across at the 2012 International Builders Show is the Exakt Mini Saw EC 330. Designed for one-handed use and featuring an easy-to-maneuver 2-in. circular
blade, this innovative tool has the ability to plunge-cut, allowing simple notch-outs without the need of a pilot hole, as is often required with a jigsaw. The small diameter of the blade enables curved cutting, and the adjustable blade depth-stop allows you to cut only through the flooring, so a simple sheet of plywood can be used as the cutting surface. Make your cuts right on the floor where you need them. (www.newexaktsaw.com) EHT
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HEART
On the set of the Extreme Makeover: Home Edition playground project in Joplin, MO.
By Mark and Theresa Clement
HOW-TO WITH
E
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xtreme Makeover: Home Edition is such a cultural juggernaut and affects so many lives that its hard to find a graceful way to introduce this story, other than to start at the beginning. Theresa and I were on-set doing MyFixitUpLife radio shows on the Extreme Makeover: Home Edition (EM:HE) project in Lewes, Deleware, when Ty Pennington announced that EM:HE was going to the tornado-ravaged city of Joplin, Missouri. We approached the EM:HE crew with our concept to design and build a play-set for what would be their 200thand little did anyone know, lastregular season episode. Once EM:HE gave
On May 22, 2011, an EF-5 tornado nearly a mile wide and 10,000 feet tall devastated the city of Joplin, Missouri.
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us the green light, it was game on in a way we had never before experienced.
WHY GO TO EXTREMES?
One of the reasons we wanted to do an EM:HE design/build is that we believe one of the shows core attributes dovetails with our own: to leave a place better than you found it. Yes, the narrative of this mission makes great TV, but we have interviewed the talent (Ty, Ed Sanders, Tracy Hutson, Paul Dimeo, etc.) and producers for MyFixitUpLife radio, and each tells remarkable stories about how the show changes lives. We were told that what you see on TV is real (a house built in seven days), and that there is even more to it than that. As designers and builders, we were at first circumspect that what we were seeing was realuntil we saw it happen (the Space Coast episode). Then, we saw it again in Etters, Pennsylvania, and then a third time in Lewes (the 2011 Thanksgiving episode). The reality is that EM:HE is being generous when they say they build a house in seven days. Two of those days are locked out just for filming. Of
We used a tennis court to make life-size templates to guide construction of the playground components. course, theres up-front planning and organization, but once the existing structure is demolished, the builders cycle time is 105 hours. Then theres the army of volunteers, Blue Shirts as theyre called, who line up in driving rain, searing heat and crazy wind to helpto be part of the juggernaut, to pick up rocks and trash with their hands. To leave the world better than they found it. Brady Connell, executive producer at EM:HE, describes the shows impact on the communities it visits as America on its best behavior. Hes right. So, as we created and submitted drawings to Joplin City Council for approval, we also assembled an A-Team of companies and contractors from around the country and made our way to Joplin.
GONE
Of all the words Parks and Recreation Director Chris Cotten used during the tour he gave us of the tornados path, the one that carried the most gravity was: gone. Home Depot, gone. My mothers favorite steakhouse, gone. Those were all medical offices, gone. The best pizza place in the world Gone. He was not using hyperbole. We saw bare slabs, stairs to
The playground was designed using a combination of dockbuilding and deck-construction techniques.
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nowhere, unimaginable emptiness in the middle of what was a populated, tree-lined neighborhood. Trees were pulverized, uprooted and debarked. A 2x4 was driven through a sidewalk curb. One volunteer who helped us pointed out: You dont realize how often you go to a place until it isnt theregas stations, stores, you name it. (Her home was vaporized; she was homeless until October 2011.) On May 22, 2011, an EF-5 tornado nearly 1 mile wide and 10,000 feet tall touched down in Joplin, a city of 50,000. Some people say three tornadoes merged into a single goliath before it blasted through the city, hitting with such impact and suction that it moved a
Using round pilings for the posts made it easier to connect the framing members without fussing with the flat face of a square 6x6.
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10-story hospital off its foundation. It emptied the city pool. A car was spotted on satellite radar at 10,000 feet. A high school senior was sucked from his fathers arms through a car window coming home from graduation. Gone.
AND YET
Yet, the people and places of Joplin move forward. The volunteersincluding EM:HE, Habitat for Humanity, Sears and Rebuilding Together, 17 regional Lowes stores, churches, Pittsburgh State University, Drury University pour in ready and willing to help a town that has the spirit to pick up a chainsaw instead of a phone.
Six months later, the town is virtually cleaned up. The scale of the damage is unimaginable, so to say the job is finished is wrong, but the traffic lights work, police are on the streets, stores are opening. And while many places are literally rubble, foundations are being pulled-up and re-poured, and some of Theresa and mines favorite sightsnew framing rising from the rubble dot the moonscape. Despite 162 dead and images people can never un-see, Joplin is rising.
DREAM, PLAY, LOVE

A playground is designed for all who come to it. With 90 percent of the kids displaced by the tornado in the area where we builtCunningham Park For the kids, the play set would serve as a fun place to play, and for the adults it would serve as a memorial.
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Theresa wanted to create a place that was more than a mlange of primary colors and plastic parts that denote innocent fun but ignore what happened in that very spot. We were building in the swath. It was almost literally right where the tornado reached its most crushing power. Cotten found a womans body not 100 yards away. She was on her way to get her kids pizza for dinner. This is hallowed ground. From a kids-eye view, this playground is a network of ramps, bridges, stores, nooks, slides and more. They can run from the parking lot through an opening in a timber wall and have at it. But from Plan-View (i.e. if you could see it from a helicopter), the playground is more than that. The slide on the top-left is the beginning of a number 2. The ramps and bridges connected to
When viewed from the sky, the footprint of the playground components read: 2011-5-22the date of the tornado.
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it spell out 0-1-1. The pergola/play-platform next to it is a 5. The monkey bars, pull-up bars and balance beams form an interlocking 22. 2011-5-22. And the wall the kids run through is signed by hundreds of volunteers, EM:HE talent and project managers, plus the MyFixitUpLife build-team. Theresa designed a faade on the foot of the 2 (think Hollywood Western town) that includes homage to historic Joplin buildings. She named the walkways with street signs where buildings affected by the storm once stood. Kids see them as familiar placesHey, my school is on that street!and adults see them in a more grown-up light. There was innocence and honor in the same gesture; two ways to view the same thing. The epitome of design.
ENDURANCE
As far as we know, nothing exactly like this has ever been built. It has to endure everything from forces of nature to climbing kids, and it has to remain a unique feature of this unique town. To make the numbers come to life, I borrowed techniques from my experience as a dock builder to create an executable structure. The dock technique morphed with deck building to detail a structure thatll stay. I used saltwater docks as a baseline construction method because theyre under constant, undulating pressurewater, wind, foot trafficyet the structure must stand firm. I couldve used 6x6 for the posts, but using
The Boomtown faade was created to commemorate historic Joplin.
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This meant everything had to be double-checked with strings an absolutely critical play by the lead carpenter laying out the structure. Posts. I know that if something can last in salt water, it can last
anywhere, so we went to ground with the pressure-treated pilings about 6 inches in diameter. We augered them down at least 36 inches, then lined the holes with 40 pounds of pea gravel to let water drain from the end-grain.
The playgrounds Memorial Wall was signed by hundreds of volunteers to signify the importance of the event and share a sentiment with the city.
round pilings meant I didnt have to fuss with a flat face pointing in the wrong direction when it came time to connect everything. The pilings were connected by 2x12 girders we socked in with structural screws that in turn were bearing points for the 2x12 joist system, which we lagged in with 1/2-by-6-in. screws. The posts were stitched together with a guardrail with 2x2 pickets spaced 5 inches on center. Layout. There was little time for guesswork once we got on site, so we transposed the playground plans onto pieces of house wrap. We knew our basic dimensions and lengths, so we went to a tennis court with house wrap, scissors and lots of duct tape and laid out a full-size template. One inch equals one inch. I was then able to draw out the framing details and write notes right on the paper. While the full-sized template worked, it was constantly walked on and moved around on site. www.extremehowto.com
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We next poured a 150-pound concrete footing around the base of the posts with fast-setting concrete. It dried hard in an hour, enabling us to backfill as we installed and braced the posts. Perimeter Joists, Girders, Interior Joists. With the posts set and rough-plumbed (they are literally trees, so they taper and are irregular), we installed the perimeter joists. To make sure the long sides would meet up with the short sides, we nailed on gauge blocks to the short face of the posts and measured from there. Once the perimeter joists were in, we could easily measure and cut the girders, which we installed beneath them. The interior joists2x12 on 12-in. centerswere installed last.
Many businesses contributed to the project, including RealOutdoorLiving.com, which supplied all the lumber for the play set.
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other; one is not more important than the other. But for those of us who do the building, it can often feel that design garners all the attention. The reason is people see and feel design, and are surprised by the detail, familiarity and creativityWow, my school is on that street! People just assume the floor wont bounce and the rails wont rattle, rarely taking notice of the skill required to create it. We see it, though, and its why were sharing this story with EHT readers You get it.
MEMORIAL WALL
Our top-notch build team burned through 20-hour shifts to get the job done. Theresa and I thank everyone who played a part. Guardrails and Decking. The pilings extended up through the structure and became the guardrail and pergola posts. We ran them up their full 16-ft. length, then detailed the guard rail between them using the American Forest and Paper Associations Prescriptive Deck Code as a guideline. This saved having to measure, mark, cut, and install different guardrail posts and kept the polished, yet folksy look we were after. Decking was typical, though if you work with pilings, be ready for the decks to be out of square. On a backyard deck with S4S lumber, cutting tapered deck boards means you made a layout mistake, but when you go round, the rules change a little. The decking is gun-nailed 2x6 and flush-cut with the perimeter joist. Mapping the radii to fit in deck boards is time-consuming to be sure, but the look is awesome. minds eye. It ends with detailing that vision with meaningful elements that evoke the entirely misquoted architect, Mies Van Der Rhoe. Its not the devil thats in the details. Mies says God is in the details. In your backyard that might mean allegiance to a sports team, a hero, a theme you love. In Joplin, that means Boomtown. Theresas Boomtown faade is a tribute to the forces that builtand are rebuildingJoplin. Buildings from the Historic Register and a race the city is proud ofThe Boomtown Run which she brought to life in the incredible sign. And the signs lettering was routed into a builtup panel of PT 2x12 by three gen-erations of Joplinites. It took massive effort, talent and willingness from everyone involved to make the details breathe on this scale. Mies is right about the details: While building and bolting, marking and mitering are the Rosetta Stone between design and reality one does not exist without the Epitomizing design once again, Theresas vision of a Memorial Wall surrounding the park serves two masters. It creates a sense gestural of place. Once you pass through the opening in the timber wall, you have arrived. Built from Southern Pine 6x6 and Western Red Cedar 2-byshe placed the timbers out to be signed by EM:HE volunteers as they checked in. Hundreds used a Sharpie marker to write their name, send a message, share a sentimentto signify the importance of the event, and all the events that take place after.
COMPANIES AND COMMUNITY

To rebuild the city, thousands of people descended on Joplin from around the worldregular people, Navy Seabees, US Air Force Academy grads, carpenters, laborers, equipment operators, woodworkers, students: All eager to grab a shovel, a handful of rocks or a cup of coffee for us. (We requested 20 at a time!) However, we wouldnt have been able to do it without the many businesses that did their part as well, such as RealOutdoorLiving.com, which supplied the lumber for the
BOOMTOWN
To us, building something begins with the vision in our
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playgroundpressure treated, Western Red Cedar and California Redwood as well as the framing packages for all 7 houses. Our build team dropped everything in their personal and professional lives to be part of this. They burned 20hour shifts to get it done. No one asked for anything other than the tools and materials needed to see it through. Theresa and I thank them and their families who also played integral parts in getting this playground off the ground. Extreme Makeover is the tie that binds, the core, the source code. Without their missionits about people and homes, not houses, says EM:HE senior producer Diane
KormanCunningham Park and Joplin would be a different place today. The 200th episode aired in January. The one-year anniversary of the tornado is May 22, 2012.
Dream. Play. Love, Joplin. Dream. Play. Love. EHT Editors note: Mark and Theresa Clement are the hosts of MyFixitUpLife, online at www.myfixituplife.com.
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EVERYTHING AUTO
Replace a Broken Lug Nut Stud

jack up the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull off the tire. Next, use a socket wrench to remove the brake caliper. Note, the driver bits required to remove the caliper pins vary among manufacturerssome require hex bits, some require star-drive bits, etc. With the caliper off the car, use a wire to hang the caliper from the vehicle to keep the weight off the brake line. Then, remove the calipers mounting bracket. (If working on a drumstyle brake system, remove the brake drum.) Remove the rotor and set aside in a place where it will not be scratched or exposed to dirt or oil. Use a metal hammer to knock the broken lug bolt out the back of the wheel. Aim carefully and be sure not to damage the threads of the adjacent lug bolts. Use your fingers to pull the broken bolt from the rear of the hub flange. The replacement bolt was a stock part from a local auto parts supplier. To install the new bolt into the bolt hole, the wheel must be turned to align the hole with a slot on the rear of the hub flange, which provides the clearance to thread it through. If the hub flange must be turned for alignment, you may have to jack up the opposite wheel so the axle can freely spin to match the hole with the slot. One unexpected problem with this job was the full, round head of the replacement bolt. Youll see the in the photos that the head of the original bolt was flat
By Matt Weber
car or trucks lug nuts and studs are the crucial components that hold the wheels onto the vehicle. If they fail while driving, then one would expect bad things to happen, ranging from sudden immobilization to a complete loss of control that results in a raging inferno of twisted metal. Although its highly unlikely that all of a wheels lugs will fail at once, its always a good idea to keep your wheels mounted securely to the vehicle with all appropriate fasteners, and broken lug studs are a common problem. If left unrepaired, the improper connection of the wheel can result in unwanted vibration
while driving that could affect steering and lead to premature wear in other vehicle components. The EHT staff recently broke a lug bolt during a routine tire-rotation job. We suspect the nut and bolt had been cross-threaded by a careless mechanic, because the bolt easily twisted in half when using a lug wrench without exerting any extra torque. Heres a step-by-step account of how to replace a broken lug nut stud (also called a lug bolt or wheel stud).
REMOVE AND REPLACE

Use a wrench to loosen the wheels lug bolts while the vehicle remains on the ground. Then
68
EVERYTHING AUTO
on one side because it is positioned so close to the axle housing. The full head of the replacement obstructed the bolts insertion into the lug hole, so I had to clamp the bolt in a vise and flatten one side of the head with a 4-in. electric grinder. For easier installation, store the replacement bolt in a freezer for a few hours. The tolerance of the lug bolt and the hole will be very tight, and any small amount of contraction the cold temperature may cause in the metal alloy will make it easier to install the new bolt. Use a metal-bristle brush to knock away any rust from the wheel and lubricate both the bolt and the bolt hole with a spray-on solvent. Insert the bolt straight into the hole as far as it will go (the bolt will stop at its shoulder at this point). Thread a very large nut over the end of the new bolt (a stack of large washers will also work). The large nut is not intended to thread onto the bolt. There should be no positive connection between the bolt and large nut; it should slide loosely over the bolt like a washer to function as a spacer. Next, thread the new lug nut over the end of the new bolt, sandwiching the big nut between it and the hub flange. Use a lug wrench to tighten the nut, which will draw the bolt into the hub until the bolt head is flush with the back of the flange and snugly installed. Remove the large nut, tighten the lug nut, and the job is done. Clean the rotor with brake dust remover. Reverse the procedure to replace the brake, wheel and tire, tightening the lug nuts to the manufacturers specifications. EHT
This wheel stud broke in half during a routine tire rotation. Use a wire to hold the brake caliper out of the way while you work, keeping weight off the brake line.
The broken stud bolt must be removed and replaced.
Unscrew the bracket bolts.
Unscrew the caliper pins to remove the brake.
Remove the caliper mounting bracket.
70
To create an identical replacement I had to grind down the head of the new bolt so it would fit against the hub flange. Remove the rotor. Set it aside where it wont get oily or scratched.
Thread a very large bolt over the stud to act as a spacer. Follow that with the new lug nut, threading it onto the end of the stud.
Freeze the replacement bolt so the metal alloy contracts and easily fits into the hole.
I use a metal punch and hammer to carefully remove the broken bolt.
Lubricate the new stud and bolt hole.
Tighten the lug nut with a wrench to draw the shoulder of the new stud into the hub flange so the bolt head is flush.
The replacement bolt had a full round head, but the original bolt was flat on one side.
Insert the bolt up to its shoulder. This may require turning the wheel so the slot on the hub flange aligns with the bolt hole.
Reverse the procedure to reassemble the wheel, tightening the lug nuts to spec. www.extremehowto.com
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HOT
PRODUCTS
CONTROLLED DEMOLITION WITH ECOBUST

Need to render a big rock to rubble in an environmentally friendly way? Instead of ripping through concrete or stone with a jackhammeror even explosivesEcobust is an expansive demolition agent that breaks up rock and concrete effectively and silently. The product is a non-toxic powdered mixture of natural minerals designed to expand and exert thousands of PSI on rock or concrete when combined with water. Heres how it works: (1) Drill into the concrete or rock. (2) Mix the powdered Ecobust agent with water. (3) Pour the mixture into the holes. The agent will expand inside the hole, breaking apart the concrete or rock from the inside, saving money and time. The product requires no special licenses or permits, and the demolition creates no dust, noise, vibrations, flying debris or toxic fumes. Learn more at www.ecobust.com.
POWER8 LITHIUM 18V CORDLESS WORKSHOP

The POWER8 Lithium 18V Cordless Workshop is centered around an innovative armored case and unique POWERhandle system. The patented POWERhandle design incorporates lithium-ion batteries, a variablespeed trigger and handle into one unit, allowing the tools to pack into the worlds smallest 4-piece power tool combo kit. The POWER8 cordless workshop serves as an eight-function project station with a stainless steel work surface. The kit includes the POWERhandle, charger, circ saw, hammer drill/driver, halogen light, work clamp, metal protractor and canvas bag. When combined with the armored case and the integrated stainless steel post, the jigsaw can be configured as a scroll saw, the circ saw as a table saw, and the drill/driver as a drill press. Learn more at www.POWER8workshop.com.
MAXTECH PATIO STONE LIFTER

Maxtechs new patent-pending Patio Stone Lifter allows large patio stones and bricks to be easily lifted and put in place by using only one hand. This means no more pinched fingers, bruised hands or sore backs when tackling your new walkway or concrete patio. Made of zincplated steel and a strong wooden handle, the tool features adjustable clamp extensions for precision clamping and repetitive lifts. An incorporated scale makes precisely clamping stones and bricks simple and fast, and a release switch enables users to accurately and easily drop the patio stone in place without crushing their fingertips. Learn more at www.maxtechconsumers.com.
72
HOT
PRODUCTS
DEAD ON TITANIUM FRAMING HAMMER

Dead On Tools, a division of PullR Holding Company, announces the release of its new Titanium Framing Hammer, the DO-Ti7. Well balanced and lightweight at only 1.6 lbs., the DO-Ti7 was designed to reduce hand and arm stress. The precision cast titanium head includes a magnetic nail set, a curved claw and is offered with either a milled or smooth face. It has an embedded overstrike area as part of the cast head, as well as titanium spines embedded in the handle for added overstrike protection to the handle. The handle is wrapped in carbon-fiber for more rigidity and strength to extend the life of the hammer. Learn more at www.deadontools.com.
ONECOAT WATERPROOFING FINISH

For maximum wood protection in minimal time, OneCoat Waterproofing Finish protects like two coats of standard finishin a single application. OneCoat can be applied just hours after prep (not days, like most wood finishes), and the integral Climate Guard Technology offers superior sun and rain protection. OneCoat is available in premixed colors, or choose the Natural option which may be tinted to additional wood-toned colors. Results are guaranteed by the manufacturer, and cleanup is easy, requiring only soap and water. Learn more at www.flood.com.
PERENNIAL WOOD MADE TO LAST

Perennial Wood was introduced to the U.S. construction industry at the 2012 International Builders Show. Perennial Wood is real wood thats been modified to resist changes from moisture, such as shrinking, swelling and movement, for decades. TruLast Technology, from Eastman Chemical Company, permanently transforms the woods cellular structure throughout by using heat, pressure and an organic compound to replace the water-loving (hydrophilic) groups in the woods cells with water-hating (hydrophobic) groups. The process provides a physical barrier throughout thats warranted to protect against rot, decay and movement for 25 years. Perennial Wood is three times more stable than unmodified wood to resist cracking, cupping and warping. The wood remains straighter, smoother and harder, while maintaining its natural appearance. The first product line is Perennial Wood decking, available in New England at approximately 100 Lowes stores, and select lumberyards and deck dealers. Learn more at www.perennialwood.com.
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HOT
PRODUCTS
MEAN GREEN INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH CLEANER

Mean Green Industrial Strength Cleaner & Degreaser has a unique blend of biodegradable detergents for the most challenging floorcleaning applications. With 40 percent more cleaning ingredients than standard consumer products, grease and grime are quickly dissolved, while 30 percent more solvents and 20 percent more surfactants lift stubborn stains off all surfacesfrom fabric to concrete, carpet and more. Mean Green Industrial is ideal for a wide variety of commercial and industrial floor cleaning applications including tile, concrete, synthetics, even carpet cleaning and stain removaland without environmentally harmful solvents. It is also ideal for use with pressure washers, and because of a slow evaporation rate, it emits no harmful fumes. Learn more at www.meangreendegreaser.com.
WD-40 SPECIALTY PRODUCTS

WD-40 Company introduces WD-40 Specialist, a new line of best-in-class specialty products formulated to get specific jobs done right. The new WD-40 Specialist line consists of five products. Rust Release Penetrant Spray, with Blu Torch Technology, penetrates rust 50 percent faster than the competition and also helps prevent rust and corrosion. The new Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant dries fast, doesnt leave a mess and waterproofs and protects moving parts. Protective White Lithium Grease is ideal for metal-to-metal applications, providing long-lasting lubrication and unbeatable, superior protection. WD-40s Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor protects metal from corrosion for up to one year outdoors and two years indoors. And finally, the companys Rust Remover Soak is made with biodegradable ingredients and a non-toxic formula that restores rusted metal parts back to bare metal. Learn more at www.WD40Specialist.com.
RANGECRAFT HILITES WALLSPLASH

RangeCraft Manufacturing now offers a line of innovative metal backsplashes. The RangeCraft HiLites Wallsplash is designed to enhance your backsplash and/or match your range hood metal. The HiLites Wallsplash provides a sleek, stylish, contemporary look to any installation and is an attractive alternative to more traditional materials for use in kitchen backsplashes, feature walls or decorative borders in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway. A snazzy swish pattern appears when the lighting in the room is on. And, when the lights are turned off, reflections in the swirls create dramatic highlights from the swish patterns. The lightweight material adheres to walls easily, and the HiLites Wallsplash is offered in the same metals as RangeCraft Range Hoods. Choose from quality metals including stainless steel, brass, copper and blackened steel. Install under-cabinet lighting to enhance the backsplash design. Learn more at www.rangecraft.com.
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HOT
PRODUCTS
NEW, DARK COLORS FOR PLY GEM SIDING

New for 2012, Ply Gem introduces new dark colors for its line of Perfection Shingle Siding. Ply Gem siding offers a realistic wood-grain texture for a hand-crafted look, giving homes an authentic wood appearance with less upkeep. As a rustic finish for a whole home or an accent for porches, gables or other architectural features, Perfection Shingle Siding provides a stylish choice. This polymer siding option is made with colorthrough construction for a low-maintenance finish that doesnt require painting or staining. For superior durability and impact resistance, the Perfection Shingle Siding features 0.100-in. thick panelstwice as thick as ordinary vinyl siding. The siding also incorporates an advanced UpRight Locking System that allows for easy installation and top performance in high winds. Learn more at www.plygem.com.
MAXGUARD SPIKE STRIPS

MAXguard Spike Strips provide affordable perimeter protection for residential and business security. The strips are easy to install onto fences, walls or other yard perimeters that consist of brick, block, stone, iron, chain-link, wood and PVC. MAXguard Spike Strips are UV- and impact-resistant and can be painted to match any exterior fence. Theyre made up of 1-1/2-in. blunt or sharp tip metal spikes that bolster security without compromising aesthetics. Learn more at www.maxguard.net.
GRIZZLY BENCHTOP JOINTER

The new Grizzly Model G0725 6-by-28-in. Benchtop Jointer features a 1-12-HP 110V, 20,000-RPM , universal motor. The two-knife cutterhead makes 20,000 cuts per minute for smooth finishes, and the precision-ground, cast iron table features adjustable infeed. A 4-516-in. tall precision-ground cast iron fence with 45-degree left/right tilt is ideal for bevel jointing. Plus, the jointer has a built-in dust collection system with 2-12-in. dust port, dust collection fan and bag. Learn more at www.grizzly.com.
78
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Lumber Liquidators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Maxtech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Maze Nails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Mendocino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 MP Global Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46, 47 Proflex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Ready Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 ReciproTools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Sakrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Sani Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Schluter Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Seal-Krete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Shade Sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 ShopBot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Spring Bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Stainhander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Standard Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Sure-Loc Edging, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 SwingSetMall.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 TG Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 3, BC TimberTech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Tjernlund . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Ty-Lan Enterprises Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 USAutomatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 V-Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Vaughan & Bushnell Mfg. Co.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Water King USA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Western Red Cedar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Wooden Play Scapes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 XIM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Zoro Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
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79

Extreme How-To Magazine - May 2012 (True PDF

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Build an Entertainment Center with Pocket-Hole Joinery

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

RENOVATION TIPS FOR SUCCESS

24 Big Stand for a Big Screen

42 Handy Flooring Tools

54 How-To with Heart

cover photo courtesy Quick-Step

From The Editor-In-Chief

PUBLISHER Jeremy Hollingsworth jhollingsworth@latitude3.com A DV E R T I S I N G S A L E S Jan Logan jlogan@latitude3.com

Warren Pinheiro wpinheiro@latitude3.com Scott Shelley sshelley@latitude3.com Martin Smith msmith@latitude3.com

ONLINE MEDIA DIRECTOR Hal Jones hjones@latitude3.com

SPIRAL STAIRS AND MODULAR STAIR CASE KITS

How does manufactured stone compare with real stone veneer?

How large should grout joints be in tile?

Renovation Tips for Success

By Clint C. Thomas, Esq.

TIP #2: MAXIMIZE YOUR TIME

TIP #1: LIVE ON SITE

UNLOAD YOUR TRUCK IN 30 SECONDS!

One-Yea Warrantyr 30-Da Money B y a Guarante ck e

Pickup Truck Unloader

TIP #3: WORK AROUND THE SEASONS

TIP #4: DO IT ONCE AND DONT LOOK BACK

TIP #5: LOOK FOR WAYS TO SAVE MONEY

TIP #6: INVEST IN QUALITY TOOLS

TIP #8: KEEP ACCURATE RECORDS

TIP #7: MAKE SURE YOURE COVERED

FROM WATER DAMAGE!

The Shini ng War ner Bros.

FOR A BIG SCREEN

BUILDING THE CARCASS

I used plywood braces to position the center divider.

The face-frames attach to the front and rear.

Solid oak edging was glued to the nose of each shelf.

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

photo courtesy ElastilonUSA

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

Self-Adhesive Hardwood Installation Membrane

Now You Can Install Solid Hardwood Floors In Any Room.

NO NAILS, NO GLUE. NO MESS.

(877) 526-9663 www.elastilonusa.com

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

...AND THEY SAID YOU COULDNT DO-IT-YOURSELF!

HANDY FLOORING TOOLS

RED, WHITE & BLUE from Americas Heartland

Now available at www.vaughanmfg.com

DREAM, PLAY, LOVE

The Boomtown faade was created to commemorate historic Joplin.

COMPANIES AND COMMUNITY

Replace a Broken Lug Nut Stud

REMOVE AND REPLACE

The broken stud bolt must be removed and replaced.

Unscrew the bracket bolts.

Unscrew the caliper pins to remove the brake.

Remove the caliper mounting bracket.

Lubricate the new stud and bolt hole.

CONTROLLED DEMOLITION WITH ECOBUST

POWER8 LITHIUM 18V CORDLESS WORKSHOP

MAXTECH PATIO STONE LIFTER