Building a 70cm Tiger Trap Jump.

Materials requirements :
Either 1 of 150mm * 35mm rough sawn H3 6m length or 150mm * 35mm single lengths at 2.1, 1.8, 1.5m (to fit in a car) 35mm timber is strong enough to construct a jumps and cheaper and easier to handle than the more common 50mm timber which may also be used. Coach bolts 10mm Galvanised Bolts (sized for 35mm timber) 8 of 90mm (for 50mm timber use 115mm) 4 of 120mm (for 50mm timber use 170mm) 12 of nuts and 25mm washers to match Galvansied Nails, 12 of Flat head, 100mm Jump Poles 3 of approx. 1.6 meters

Construction tools
Hand saw or Circular saw Auger with 10mm drill bit or Electric Drill with 10mm drill bit long (120mm) spade. You will need to drill through 105mm depth of timber. Set Square Builders protractor suggested but not essential Spanner, Crescent or Socket set for tightening bolts Hammer Appropriate personal protective equipment (ear and eye protection) if using electric tools

Instructions
To ensure best results read the whole of the instructions first PRIOR to commencing construction. Where any instruction appears to create an issue of personal safety, STOP, manage the risks and proceed with caution. As the writers of these plans are unable to manage your working environment YOU are responsible for your safety and the safety of those around you.

Impulsion Enterprises 2012

TT07_06_A

impulsionservices@gmail.com

Method
Mark out cutting lines on timber. Cut to length. For the 30 degree cuts ensure you are cutting the right way. Marking out a 30 degree cut on timber. Multiply the width of the timber by 0.58, i.e. for a 150mm wide timber, 150 * 0.58 = 87mm Mark 87mm along the timber from the cut line, Draw a line across from the start.
150mm 30 degree line

87mm

Cut List
Cut the straight cuts first!

1440mm + cuts (1.5m) 440mm 440mm 560mm

Approx. 1843mm + cuts (2.1m) 560mm 685mm long side 685mm long side 45 degree trim from center

30 degree cut Approx. 1629mm + cuts (1.8m) 685mm long side 260mm Long Side long side 260mm 30 degree cuts Once cut you should have 2 * Bases at 560mm 2 * A bars at 440mm 2 * fillers at 260mm 4 * uprights at 685mm. 685mm long side 45 degree trim from center

Impulsion Enterprises 2012

TT07_06_A

impulsionservices@gmail.com

1) Place one upright flat on your flat working surface, put the base flat close beside it

2) Measure from the bottom of the upright up approximately 110mm and place the A-bar parallel to the bottom of the upright. Dont nail, bolt or fix anything yet!

110mm 3) Place the filler above the A-bar on the upright

Impulsion Enterprises 2012

TT07_06_A

impulsionservices@gmail.com

4) Place second upright in position, the bottoms of the uprights should be flat.

5) Mark out and drill the left hand upright to the A-bar, these should be approximately vertical to the base, and approx. centered at the middle (this ensures the bolts are NOT on the same grain line of the timber increasing strength), and 30mm from the edge of the A-Bar. Avoid drilling into the ground.

30mm 30mm

6) Push the two bolts in these holes (but do not push out the other side yet). This helps stop the next piece from spinning around when it is drilled. 7) Drill the holes for the two longer bolts through all three pieces of wood. If you have a short drill bit you may need to take off the top upright to complete drilling. Once drilled, place the bolts through.

Impulsion Enterprises 2012

TT07_06_A

impulsionservices@gmail.com

8) Complete the drilling on the right hand side of the A-bar ensuring it is the same measurement from the bottom of the upright as the left hand side, moving the base to avoid drilling into it, using the same measurements as the left side. Push the bolts through. 9) Lift the frame up and put on the 560mm Base. Ensure it is sitting flat and level on the Base and put on the washers and nuts, and tighten until the washers dent the timber. 10) Turn the frame upside down place the Base on the feet, centered between the two uprights and hammer 3 nails through the base into the uprights, be careful to ensure the nails do not exit the sides of the upright. The finished End should stand upright. Repeat for the other End.

Finishing the jump

Suggest protruding bolts are placed on the OUTSIDE. Place the poles on the jump. These are NOT fixed in place. If you are having trouble with the poles rolling off the A-bar, use an angled offcut of wood to hold in place or tie on with bailing twine. Use sandpaper or other tools to smooth off as many cut edges as possible, this increases your safety. The finished jumps should have no sharp protruding edges. If the poles are tied with twine they will be reasonably secure but should be able to break free if a horse lands on the jump. The top rail should NOT be tied on. The A frames at the side of the jump will be reasonably sturdy, but are intended to twist over if pushed on sideways (another safety consideration).

Riding!
No liability for damage to horse, rider, or equipment can be accepted for the construction or jumping of this jump. Be aware that horse riding/construction can be a hazardous activity with risks, it is the responsibility of the rider/constructor to review and manage these risks. Steps to mitigate your risk are not limited but should include.. Construction/Riding with appropriate personal protective equipment o Construction Ear protection & Eye protection Dry environment & RCD power protection Safe area for using power tools o Riding Helmet Body protector Long sleeves and leg wear Riding boots with a heel to prevent feet going through stirrups Checking the girth after riding for 5 minutes and before jumping Ensuring your feet are not tight in, and are not through your stirrups Other people around to assist you if required. Prior riding instruction.

Happy riding

Impulsion Enterprises 2012

TT07_06_A

impulsionservices@gmail.com