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SPORTSWEAR

The 4 aims of good sportswear design Reduction Removal Cooling Comfort The role of fabric Adsorbed:

To undergo a process in which a substance, usually a gas, accumulates on the surface of a solid forming a thin film, often only one molecule thick
On fibre surfaces Within the lumen; cortex; hollow chambers Imbibed: Between the fibres in the yarn Between the fabric interstices Wicking: Wicking is important because the capillary action removes perspiration from the body reducing the possibility of hypothermia and abnormally low body temperatures. What to wear to create a comfortable and safe environment? If one was spending a day in the high country a practical outfit would be: The important factors in this scenario are that one would need to keep warm and be protected from the wind chill factor, and be protected from heat loss. Important garments for this would be: Hiking boots - preferably waterproof and shock absorbent Socks wool would keep the feet warm whilst wicking the moisture away. Waterproof microfibre gloves Waterproof jacket and pants these should be insulating and treated with a waterproof finish, synthetic, woven fabrics would be ideal. Microclimate

A microclimate is a climate created in a small area that differs from the climate that dominates the surrounding area A microclimate is a local atmospheric zone where the climate differs from the surrounding area. The term may refer to areas as small as a few square feet (for example a garden bed) or as large as many square miles. Microclimates exist, for example, near bodies of water which may cool the local atmosphere, or in heavily urban areas where brick, concrete, and asphalt absorb the sun's energy, heat up,

and reradiate that heat to the ambient air: the resulting urban heat island is a kind of microclimate.
Layering system There are 3 distinct layers in outdoor wear: 1.Wicking This is the inner layer; its purpose is to transport moisture away from the body/skin. Fibres that are good for this include linen, polyester, nylon, acrylic and polyolefins. Wool is also a preferable fibre for this purpose as it is quick drying, this is one reason cotton is not preferable, although breathable; cotton takes too long to dry. Synthetics and weft knits are also advisable. 2. InsulatingThis is the second layer that serves the purpose of insulating the body; keeping the chill out, and the warmth in. High thread count synthetics or wool are preferable, and also weft knits because the loops trap more air. 3. ProtectingThis is the outer/surface layer, the aim of this layer is to protect the wearer from the elements; keeping out water, cold air and wind. Synthetic fabrics that have been treated with a waterproofing finish are advised or high thread count cotton. Woven fabrics only and all three layers may be combined into one. Active sportswear influences Elastomer Microfibre Polyamide Holographics Heat sensitive and reflective fabrics Micro encapsulation Picture! THE fabrics Microfibre X sections Missed some Sportswear design 1. Consider the concepts of heat flow and garment fit. 2. Consider fibres, construction and layers. 3. Research the new developments.

MICROFIBRE
Polymer fibre composition Polymer: fibre molecules (atoms) bonded together over and over to form very long chains. Process: is a polyamide, however can also be regenerated through wood pulp to a point, however this claim has been debated as possible marketing hype. History Microfibre was discovered in Japan nearly 30 years ago, where small diameters of fibre were attempted. Du Pont U.S 1989 Also produced in Europe A fibre so fine that it couldnt be seen by the naked eye. Human physiology Heat flow Fabric thickness Vapour transmission Definition Microfibre is an abbreviation for Micro-denier, it is defined by weight, meaning that the fibre must weigh Microfibres are filament fibres and are weighed in grams per square metre Is denoted by um symbol, this equates to one micron or 1000th of a millimetre Weight and fineness A microfibre filament measuring 10,000 metres weighs 0.4-0.6 grams, this is recorded as 0.4-0.6 decitex. Fibre compositions can be Polyester, Polyamide, Acrylic or Regenerated cellulose. Natural fibres cannot be classified as microfibres because they cannot be less than 1 decitex. Fibre morphology

Brands Tactel polyamide microfibre, can be used on its own or as a blend, can be treated with many different finishes, light fabrics with a fluid drape, excellent hand, easy care, good vapour transmission Supplex Both nylon microfibres

Polarfleece Elite Trevira Polartec Aquafoil Micromattique - polyester Weatherite Meryl Taslon Cambrelle Triplepoint Isotex Filifine - polyester Elite Microdry Thinsulate Enjo Finishes Suede look Leather looks Unique properties Fineness; this equates to a fluid drape and more flexibility Sensitive to body movements High crease resistance, although nylon wont hold a press for as long as polyester Vibrant colour Limitations Sewing microfibre fabric tends to create a very bouncy seam, much finer needles are required for sewing and the tension needs to be adjusted on the sewing machine. Pressing because of thermoplastic properties microfibre fabrics will melt faster than other synthetics and a shine can be created on the fabric. Properties Hydroscopic nature Insulation Flexibility Drape a fluid flowing drape is apparent with microfibre fabric. Resilience Microfibre fabric has a silky fine hand, which can often cause it to be confused with silk, whereas a regular denier fabric has a more plastic hand. Specifications

Yarn structure: filaments or multi filaments Construction: can be a weave or knit Composition: has the same composition as synthetics such as polyester or polyamide. Yarn twist: Soft or negiable twists Thread count: Very high counts Fabric weight: can be higher than standard denier due to more fibres Care instructions: Generally the same care should be taken as one would for a synthetic fibre, however, this fabric can be prone to snagging so it should be placed in a net bag or washed on a gentle cycle. Microfibre filaments Microfibre filaments, in summary are: Softer, stronger, warmer Twice the bulk and surface area More waterer repellent Permit vapour escape from the body More prone to damage from abrasion Class exercise 1.think about what makes microfibre different from standard denier fibre. I.e.: how their appearance and performance is different 2.source two fashion garment images that demonstrate the differences 1 standard denier and 1 microfibre from magazine 3. Explain the properties of a typical microfibre fabric 4. Discuss the difference between the 2 garments. What makes it different from standard denier? (I.e. visual impact ad handle.)

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