Bunker Deluxe kit

30 mm S cale c arDStock t errain F ileS By D ave G raFFam www.davesgames.net

INTERIOR VIEW
Here you can see the placement of the staircase and a mixed color scheme of gray metal and jungle green, and uses triangular support columns that are wide at the top. You may easily customize the look of your model by selecting from three different base colors and adding a variety of external features.

EXTERIOR VIEW
This model is dressed using mostly the desert brown colors, and is shown with the upper level pieces in place. These can be lifted away to access your miniatures inside.

David Graffam 2009. Permission granted to print for personal use only. Distribution is prohibited.

aSSemBly inStructionS
Building this model takes a few steps, and youll have lots of options along the way. Please follow these instructions carefully. For best results, read the instructions all the way through once before you set about printing and constructing your model. Open up the indicated files to become familiar with them. This will be the best way to avoid mistakes. Youll need a few hours to complete this model, and its important to be methodical and relaxed when scoring and cutting the cardstock, so dont rush it. Construction is relatively easy and requires no special skill. Just be very careful when using hobby knives and scissors, and use only non-toxic glue. Dave Graffam Models cant be held responsible for any injuries sustained for unsafe use of sharp objects at any stage of assembly on this model. Its recommended that you use scissors wherever possible to minimize the risk of injury, and make sure that you keep your hobby knives safely capped when not in use.

uSinG SinGle-layereD or multi-layereD FileS

This model includes 2 types of files for your convenience. There is a folder of single layered files with a limited selection of color options. When using those files, simply print the pages you need for your model and dont worry about adjusting any layers. To customize the look of your model in many more ways, you may use the folder of multi layered files. These PDFs contain layers that you can make visible or invisible. When you open a file, youll see the default design. To make changes, open the Layers menu and expand the file name to reveal the selection of layers. Some of the layers will be visible, while others will be invisible by default. Click on the eye icon to change a layers visibility. Choose your surface textures and add or remove external features, including weathering, damage effects, equipment and other items. Many pages will also feature optional crates. When youre happy with your chosen look, go ahead and print it off. Whether you are using single-layered or multi-layered files, this model kit includes enough variety that you will be able to print many different bunkers, each with a unique appearance.

requireD materialS
To build this model, youll need 11 to 13 sheets of cardstock (100# weight recommended), a sharp hobby knife and paper glue, and a self-healing cutting mat. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader 7.0 program or a later version in order to view and print the files, and to make use of the multi-layered function. You may also find the following items useful: a cork-backed aluminum ruler for cutting long straight lines; a pair of scissors; paper towels or wet-wipes so that you can quickly clean up any excess glue that gets on your fingers or model. A fine-line black ink marker is also recommended for coloring the white edges of your paper sheets. You might also experiment with pens using other colors of ink, instead of relying on black.

PrintinG tiPS
This file is set up for the standard 28mm-30mm tabletop wargaming scale, and for US letter-sized (8.5 x 11) sheets. Turn off any fit to page options in your printer driver. If you are printing on A4-sized sheets, you may want to reduce the print size to 95% of the original. Do this consistently when printing these files. Be sure to check the orientation of your pages before printing. Some printers will automatically rotate pages, but others will not. For best results, choose an auto rotate option in your printer drivers to avoid cutting off any parts of your image. Print on heavy cardstock whenever possible. You can create super-sturdy models by printing on plain paper and then gluing this to a heavy bristol board before cutting.

DiFFerent ScaleS
To print at a smaller scale, use the table below and change your print size percentage.

Scale 25mm 20mm 18mm (HO) 15mm 12mm 10mm (N) 8mm (Z)

% 84% 65% 60% 50% 40% 34% 27% 23%

6mm 20% Open the file called footprint.PDF. You have several layer options on this file. There are blanked areas that will help you position the columns and walls; there are also 3 optional locations for the placement of the stairs; you have a choice of 3 different color schemes; and an optional layer for weathering effects. Print this file onto cardstock. If you like, you may glue this page to any rigid material, which will add some durability to your model overall. Carefully cut along the outer black lines, then set this page aside.

SteP 1: FootPrint

SteP 2: corner PillarS

Open the files called corner-pillars-A.PDF and cornerpillars-B.pdf . If using the multi-layered files, choose your favorite layer options from those available. Next, print each page once, and follow the trimming guidelines to the right. Carefully score along the red lines using a light touch with your hobby knife, and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines. Apply glue to the tabs and fold the model together so that the printed surfaces face outward, with the tabs tucked inside. The small modules should be glued over the blanked areas on the pillar walls. Note that there are 2 different sizes of modules, so be sure that youre gluing them in the right places. Once your 4 pillars are built, set them aside. Corner Pillars The modules should look like this when theyre finished. Modules

SteP 3: Short WallS

Now well start to build the 2 short lower walls of the bunker. There are several styles to choose from, and each one offers a different combination of features. Open all of the PDFs beginning with the name short-wall and look them over. Youll notice that some of them have window openings while others do not. Choose your favorite configuration and print any 2 short walls of your choice onto cardstock. Use the trimming guide below. (This example may not look exactly like the wall youve chosen, but the principles for cutting the windows and doors are the same no matter how many of them are present.) Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the scored red lines and form your wall by folding the pieces together and gluing the tabs in place. Youll find that its easiest to glue the main wall section together first, before gluing the window openings. Finally, build and mount any of the chosen exterior modules onto the blank spaces. When you have finished these 2 walls, set them aside.

Short Walls

SteP 4: lonG WallS

Long Walls

Its time to build the 2 long lower walls. There are multiple styles to choose from, each with a unique selection of features. Open all of the PDFs beginning with the name long-wall and choose your 2 favorite walls. Some of these walls have window and door openings. Be sure to choose at least 1 wall with a door! Print any 2 walls onto cardstock. As you have done before, use the trimming guides below. Carefully score along the red lines, and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines, and glue the tabs into place. Build the main wall section first, before fitting the tabs in place for the window and door openings, then build and glue any exterior modules into their appropriate places. When youre finished with these 2 walls, set them aside.

DoorS anD ShutterS

To assemble your doors and window shutters, use the trimming guides below. Using the printed side of the object, carefully score along the red lines, and cut along the black lines. Then flip the piece over onto the blank side, and carefully score along the green lines. Then, fold the two halves of the shutter or door back so that it forms a two-sided printed piece. Glue those two halves together. Next, fold foward along the hinge flap of the piece. Apply glue along the unprinted side of the hinge flap, and then carefully glue it to the window or door frame so that the piece will swing open and closed. For best results, your doors and shutters should be glued in such a way that they are flush with the outer edge of the bunker walls, which will give them the widest range of motion. Large Shutters Doors Heres the way to affix your hinges to the walls, as viewed from the inside of the bunker.

Small Shutters

SteP 5: aSSemBle the GrounD level

Refer to the image at right as you perform this step. Take the footprint piece that you have printed and set it on a flat surface. Then place your 4 pillars on the footprint piece, 1 pillar at each corner. Be sure that the blanked areas on your pillars are facing inward toward one another. Next, place your 2 assembled short walls and 2 long walls in their appropriate places. Youll notice that the ribbed side of the walls should all be facing inward. Begin gluing the pillars to the wall pieces where they join. Make sure that the pieces lay flush to the ground, leaving no gaps between the walls and the ground. When all of your pillars and walls are glued together to form a single rectangular structure, you may then glue the entire piece to your footprint tile.

SteP 6: trianGular columnS

There are 2 types of triangular outer columns, either wide at the bottom or wide at the top. Open both of the PDFs starting with triangular-columns and choose your favorite. Print 1 page of triangular columns onto cardstock. (If you like, you may print both sheets and use any combination of column types for your model.) Assemble these columns by following the trimming guide at right. Carefully score along the red lines, and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines, and glue the tabs into place. With all of your triangular columns built, glue them into place on the blanked spaces of your walls. If you chose wide at the bottom columns, they should be glued to the footprint piece as well. If you chose wide at the top columns, the tops should

Triangular Columns

SteP 7: StairS
Open the file called stairs.PDF and print it once. Use the trimming guides below. Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the scored red lines and form your main staircase by folding the pieces together and gluing the tabs in place. There is a small rectangular piece called the overhang ceiling. Flip this piece onto the unprinted side and score along the green lines. Fold foward along the green lines, then glue this piece into place at the top of the open passage in the staircase. Next, flip over the stair steps piece onto the unprinted side, and score along the green lines. Fold foward along the green lines. Starting at the bottom or the top of the staircase, carefully glue the stair steps to the main staircase as you move toward the other end. You may then assemble the stair spacer pieces. These are small blocks that you may place under your miniatures flat bases when they are half-standing on a step. This will give them the necessary support to stand flat on the stairs. When you have completed your stairs and the spacer pieces, set all of these aside. Stair Steps

Overhang Ceiling

Stair Spacers

Main Staircase

SteP 8: uPPer level

Open the file called upper-level.PDF. You will need to print this sheet 2 times to create the full upper level, so for greater variety you might want to change your choice of details for each print. These pieces are assembled much like the wall pieces you put together earlier, except that the top of this piece must be glued to the separate bottom piece. Follow the trimming guide below. Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines, and glue the tabs into place. The top and bottom halves must be glued together to finish the piece. When your 2 upper level pieces are complete, set them on top of the walls of your completed ground level of the bunker. They should fit between the corner pillars with a bit of clearance, and should be easy to remove when you want to access your figures inside the bunker.

Upper Level

SteP 9: aFFix the StairS

Now that you can see where your upper level pieces are placed, you may glue your staircase to the fooprint tile using the blanked section as your guide. The top stair should just barely touch the edge of of your upper level piece, so that the last step up the stairs will be a step onto the upper level. If youre happy with your model at this point, you can stop building. However, you may want to add the additional defensive walls on top of the upper level.

SteP 10 (oPtional): lonG uPPer WallS

Open the file called upper-walls-long.PDF and print once. Use the trimming guide below. Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines then glue the tabs into place. When both of these walls are completed, you may glue their flat unprinted edges onto your upper level pieces, flush with the edges of those pieces in the appropriate places. The ribbed side of the walls should face inward.

Long Upper Walls

The long walls should be flush with the edge of the upper level piece.

SteP 11 (oPtional): Short uPPer WallS

Open the file called upper-walls-short.PDF and print once. Use the trimming guide below. Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines, and glue the tabs into place. When both of these walls are completed, glue their flat unprinted edges onto your upper level pieces. The ribbed side of the walls should face inward.

Short Upper Walls

The short walls should be positioned like this.

SteP 12 (oPtional): crateS

Many of the files contain crates to fill up any excess space, and there is a full separate sheet of them if you want an even greater variety. These can be assembled using the trimming guides below, and following the same procedures used to produce other components of this model. Carefully score along the red lines and cut along the black lines. Fold back along the red lines, and glue the tabs into place. You may place these items anywhere you like. The crates may be left free-standing so that you may move them around easily, although it may be useful to create some pre-assembled stacks of crates that are glued to one another. These are just final touches on your model, which should be complete by this point. Now its time to play! A stack of crates can provide extra cover for your brave warriors, and can give them height advantage. Crates

DeSiGninG a larGer comPlex

This one bunker model can be made into a larger complex by creatively combining the pieces. You can place two or more bunkers side by side and, by leaving out certain walls, create a much larger structure. Be sure that your upper level pieces have enough walls beneath them to hold them up. You may use walls with doorways built in if you want to create separate rooms. See the layout plan below for an example of a large complex built using only the parts in this set. Note that you should take care to position your corner pillars so that the blanked edges are covered up in some way. Using a triangular column is the best way to do this. By using triangular columns that are wide at the top, you can give extra support to your upper level pieces. There will be a gap between your upper level pieces because they are slightly smaller than the footprint pieces. You can bridge these gaps by not scoring and folding along the connecting edges of these piece, and trimming off any excess.

leGenD
Ground Level Short Walls Long Walls Stairs Corner Pillars Triangular Columns (Wide at Top) Long Upper Walls Short Upper Walls

Upper Levels

Upper Levels

Footprints