Chapter 2 Fibers and Their Properties

Natural Fibers
2 main categories Cellulosic plants Protein - animals Other categories such as Mineral - asbestos

Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured Cellulosic
Created from cellulose Rayon and Acetate

Synthetics
Synthesized chemically, often from petroleum Nylon (DuPont)

Fiber Properties
Determine how fiber used
Rayon = weak fiber Nylon = strong fiber Refer to Box 2.2 Fiber Properties & Definitions See Table 2.1 Properties of Major Textile Fibers

Physical Properties
These are seen with naked eye or under microscope

Color
Natural fibers vary in shade from white to black Manufactured - white

Physical Properties
Shape
Length Cross section Contour Crimp Covering Power Hand / Texture Luster

Staple & Filament Fibers

Different characteristics when made into yarn or fabric
Length: from 0 18 Softer Less luster

Filament fibers
Filament: long 18 + Smoother than staple More Lustrous May be crimped

Cross Section and Surface Contour

Cross Section - See Fig. 2-3 on p. 18
appearance across fibers diameter The cross section affects other properties
i.e. round reflects less light

Surface Contour
Longitudinal appearance direct result of cross section
Striations

Photomicrograph of wool fibers (cross section)

Photomicrograph of viscose rayon fibers

Diameter
Width of the cross section
Measured differently in natural fibers than manufactured fibers
Manufactured fibers - Denier system or the International System (SI) Natural fibers measured in microns

Crimp
Waves or bumps of a fiber
Occurs naturally in wool Can be added to manufactured fibers to emulate a natural fiber
Added during the texturing phase

Covering Power
Ability to hide what is underneath
Refer to Fig. 2 4 on p. 19 Fibers with texture or crimp are better than smooth fibers

Hand or Texture
Refers to the Feel of the Fiber All shape characteristics effect the hand
Filament smoother than staple Fine diameter softer, less stiff than thick fibers Textured or crimped feel fluffier

Luster
Amount of light reflected off a fiber
Silk high luster Usually manufactured fibers are high luster see Fig. 2-6 on p. 20
Sometimes delustered

Mechanical Properties
Abrasion resistance
Ability of a fiber to withstand the effects of rubbing or friction major factor in the durability of a fiber Pilling the formation of little balls of loose fibers on the surface of a fabric results from abrasion

Mechanical Properties
Dimensional Stability
Ability of a fiber to maintain its original shape, neither shrinking nor stretching

Elastic recovery
Ability of a fiber to return to its original length after it is stretched.

Creep recovery
A fiber that will slowly recover its original length after being stretched.

Mechanical Properties
Elongation
The lengthening or stretching of a fiber refers only to the fact that the fiber can be lengthened.

Flexibility
Fibers that can bend or fold easily Drape how a fabric hangs in graceful folds

Mechanical Properties cont

Resiliency or wrinkle recovery
The ability of a fiber to return to its original shape after being bent or folded Compressional resiliency or loft The ability of a fiber to return to its original thickness after it has been crushed

Mechanical Properties cont

Specific gravity
Density Compares the mass of a fiber to an equal volume of water

Tenacity
Fiber strength Important to wear life of the textile product

Chemical Properties
Absorbency
Moisture regain Its ability to take in moisture

Hydrophilic fibers
philic = likes Can absorbs moisture are comfortable

Hydrophobic fibers
Phobic = dislikes Do not absorb moisture readily

Chemical Properties
Hygroscopic fibers
Can absorb moisture without feeling wet Ex. Animal hairs

Wicking
A fibers ability to carry moisture along its surface Ex. acrylic

Chemical Properties cont

Electrical Conductivity
Fibers that do NOT conduct electricity create static electricity

Epitropic fibers
Synthetic fibers that have small particles of carbon embedded in their surface. These particles conduct electricity.

Chemical Properties cont

Chemical Reactivity
How it reacts to chemicals such as dyes, pigments, soaps, detergents and bleaches

Acids
Damages natural cellulosics. Does not harm protein fibers.

Bases or alkalis
Do not harm cellulosic (cotton). Will damage protein fibers.

Chemical Properties cont

Oxidizing agents
Ex. Bleach Some fibers are damaged by this Safe for polyester, nylon, and cotton (controlled) Will damage protein fibers

Solvents
Used in dry cleaning Organic solvents used to remove oily stains and dirt Ex. Acetone damages acetate and triacetate

Chemical Properties cont

Effects of Heat
Thermoplastic
Most synthetics are thermoplastic They soften or melt when exposed to heat Cellulosic / Protein may scorch or burn when exposed to high heat

Heat Setting
Applying heat and pressure in a controlled maner to permanently change the shape / improve the dimensional stability of thermoplastic fibers.

Heat set garments of Issey Miyake

Chemical Properties cont

Flammability
Fireproof Unaffected by fire Flame resistant will ignite if placed in
open flame but will not continue to burn after the flame is removed

Flammable easy to ignite and will

continue to burn

Chemical Properties cont

Flammability
Noncombustible will not burn but can
meilt and decompose at a high temperature

Self-extinguishing will stop burning

when the flame is removed

Thermally stable will not readily burn

or shrink when exposed to a flame.

Environmental Properties
Sensitivity to:
Climate
May loose strength Become

Microorganisms
Mold and mildew can damage textiles

Insects
Moths, carpet beetles, silver fish attach fibers