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Finally, I learned to say: ‘Okay, let’s just adopt the old phrase inshallah. What’s going to happen is
going to happen. And if it does? Well, then c’est pas grave.”
—Maren Larsen, UGB exchange student, 2007-08
When Maren Larsen landed in Dakar, she had a great many expectations. “I had
always wanted to live in Africa. It was a whole dream of mine!” she says one night last
She and nine other American students have met up with Jim Delehanty, UW–
Madison faculty advisor of their exchange program, in the bar of the Hôtel la Résidence
in Saint-Louis, the former capital of the historic French colony. This year, all participants
on the program are females, which isn’t unusual, and all are enrolled at UW–Madison
(most hail from hometowns around the state). Their majors range from agriculture to
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While undoubtedly western—even Midwestern—in appearance, the women
exhibit evidence of having lived in a remarkably different country since September. Some
wear a mix of Old Navy capris and Senegalese headscarves wrapped four inches above
their heads. Another arrives in a personally tailored turquoise Senegalese dress and
shoulder-skimming earrings. Most wear locally made wooden-soled, leather sandals, their
white toes and painted toenails crusted with the brown sand that covers everything.
“And then I got here,” Larsen continues, “and for a long time it was just really
hard—the cold showers, the holes instead of toilets. It wasn’t necessarily bad,” she
hastens to add, “it was just a lot to take in.” The students nod in recognition.
“Still, when I was down, I kept thinking: ‘this is my dream! Why aren’t I loving
this?”
support to the 10 American students enrolled at the Université Gaston Berger (UGB).
year-long exchange has accepted almost 150 participants from a handful of American
universities since 1991. This is Delehanty’s “twelfth-or-so” midterm visit, which means
he has served as one of the program’s faculty advisors pretty much from the start.
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Delehanty, who is also the associate director of UW–Madison’s African Studies
Program, is here to advise the students on their the fieldwork research projects that each
will transform into a 35 to 50 page paper within the next few months.
It is also a chance to check in with the students, to see how each is faring in one of
the nation’s most innovative, unique, and challenging opportunities for undergraduate
“It’s almost like clockwork,” Delehanty had told me during our four-hour car ride
And this is no less true in Saint-Louis. By now, some are over the novelty of
being called toubab (white person) in the busy markets. Most are craving hot showers
and flush toilets. Others have just said goodbye to boyfriends or siblings who visited for
the holidays; now they are facing another semester before seeing them again.
Many of the students will confide to us over that week that if they felt they could
All of them say they wouldn’t trade this experience for the world.
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Learning to judge from within
“These students are not tourists,” Baydallaye Kane, professor of English and the
His office, on the second floor of the university’s main building, is bright with
light from one whole window of walls. A framed black-and-white photo of Gaston
Berger, Saint-Louis native and Afro-French philosopher, hangs on the wall by the door.
Kane, one of the early architects of the UGB program—together with UW–
Madison African Languages and Literature professor Edris Makward and then-associate
director of IAP Joan Raducha—was determined to design opportunities for the greatest
“These students really experience our culture. That’s what I like so much about
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Accordingly, the program consists of three pillars: residential immersion in UGB
courses and African student life, intense instruction in the Wolof language, and an
And so after a month-long stay with a Senegalese host family in Dakar for early
orientation and language instruction, each student lives in UGB housing with a
Senegalese roommate. Like everyone else, they wash their clothes in plastic pails and
take cold showers for the year. And they eat chebu gen (fish and rice) and other local fare
at the outdoor blue-terraced buvette as goats amble along the acacia-lined paths between
buildings.
Arguably, students might find downtown Saint-Louis, about a ten-minute taxi ride
from the university, a more stimulating environment. There, market-lined streets and
nightclubs offer color and more touristy opportunities. But that would distance them from
In this setting, their intensive Wolof instruction comes in handy. While all of the
Americans on this program arrive with some facility in French, an official language of the
country, they receive year-long language instruction in Wolof, the most widely spoken
language in Senegal.
the UGB program, explains: “After a while you don’t want the Senegalese students to
switch into French every time you walk up to them. If there’s a Wolof conversation going
The last of the program’s three-prong immersion mission is perhaps the most
innovative: the fieldwork projects which require these students to research some aspect of
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Senegalese life, culture, or environment. To do so, students must navigate communities
beyond the university, where French and Wolof are just two of many languages spoken.
“Getting students out into the community is especially important in a country like
Senegal,” Delehanty explains. “All universities are an abstract of society at large, but in
Africa the university is especially distant from the day-to-day lives of most citizens.”
(Never mind the rarity of higher education: approximately 50 percent of Senegalese men
Students have tackled such subjects as the struggling fishing industry, conflict
resolution in the Casamance region, and the role of Chinese merchants in Senegalese
“This was particularly challenging to establish,” explains former IAP director and
fellow program founder Joan Raducha. “The concept of undergraduate students doing
fieldwork is not really part of the French system.” But it was Kane, who himself was
trained in a traditional French system, who really pushed for the inside perspective that
Raducha says by way of explanation. (Indeed, as the newly elected dean of UGB’s
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College of Letters and Human Sciences, he is now implementing a major, and equally
cultural tolerance,” Kane says of the value of cultural immersion. “Unlike their
“That’s important because then they can judge a culture from that place,” he
continues. “It’s not okay to say ‘I don’t like this about a culture’ when you don’t
understand it. But if you understand the culture and then don’t like something about it,
that’s different.”
Louis is a modern city by West African standards. And the Université Gaston-Berger,
founded in 1990, is regarded as the most advanced institution of higher learning in the
country.
When we visit in the middle of winter, the weather is 80 degrees and sunny every
day—it being the cool and dry season of the year. And the Senegalese we meet do justice
to their reputation as open and warm people. (In fact, each student recounts with equal
parts pride and humility the week spent celebrating the Muslim holiday Tabaski with the
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“We’re definitely not sending them into the bush,” says Delehanty, who knows
something about that. He spent several years in Niger, another former French colony,
while serving in the Peace Corps and, later, researching settlement of marginal lands for
Still, most of the students have never navigated in a Muslim culture, where a
religion unfamiliar to most of them permeates social mores and requires different
comportment: a more modest dress for women, for example. And seemingly small things
can loom large over time, for example, only extending one’s right hand in social
Combine that with a more relaxed sense of time, an intensely social culture, and
diverging sanitary routines, and there’s a point they have to abandon many of their own
ingrained patterns and expectations. Each student has to find his or her own way of
Some solutions are practical. One student learned to manage the power outages
that interrupt routine errands by taking a book wherever she goes to just wait it out.
All of them recognize that just the act of seeing oneself through such challenges,
which sometimes require just sitting through discomfort, has helped them to foster a
different attitude entirely—one that they will draw on long beyond the program year.
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“I think the wall that I hit was built by my expectations,” says Larsen. “I had to
learn not to get worked up over things. Now no matter what happens, I feel like things
“I learned to have faith,” says Catherine Skroch, who has just returned from
conducting peace studies and conflict resolution in the Casamance. “Finally, I just said:
‘I’m going to close my eyes and hold my breath and jump into it, and hope it all turns out
alright.”
Political Science major Brenda Lazarus assesses her experience with pride: “I’m
more independent now,” she says. “I’m more confident that whatever situation I’m in I
coordinator Andrea Muilenburg had told me before I left for my trip with Delehanty.
They are more independent, she had said, because they have to conduct a
fieldwork project without the oversight of an on-site advisor. They are also more
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“It’s not a regular academic environment,” Muilenburg explained. “They don’t
Raducha says one of the biggest challenges has been designing productive
academic years when whole courses can be canceled or postponed for weeks at a time.
For the most part, it’s the students who show remarkable discipline and drive.
Indeed, the alumni of the UGB program have proven to form an uncommonly
successful lot. Along with a disproportionately high number of future Peace Corps
Sarah Nehrling, who participated in the program during the 2003-04 academic
year, recently returned to work for a Senegalese NGO in Theis, an important city between
When we visit her in a café on our way back to Dakar, she updates Jim on the
status of her fellow UGB alumni. Three are in the Peace Corps and another is earning her
master’s in public health from UW–Madison. Nehrling herself is now working for her
third NGO in West Africa since graduating back at UW–Madison in 2005. She plans to
program] and the other foreign students attending UGB with less preparation and
immersion,” Nehrling tells us. American students on other programs, for example, only
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stay for one semester and most often live in separate housing. “Some of those students
say, ‘I didn’t learn a thing about Senegal when I was there, I admit it.’”
“They don’t experience the same level of stress and discomfort,” she explains.
“There is a cracking point in study abroad when you’re just frustrated with so many
things. And you either learn how to deal with it, or you completely give up in the
“So is it just a level of discomfort that makes UW students more successful here?”
Delehanty asks.
No, not that, she corrects. It’s the sense of self that results from having to adapt to
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