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Register Topics, Morris 18 Memories Morris , Wireless, and P.A. Family Album, The Other Family Album Norman Bashford's Workhorse, D.V.L.A., Tips for Morris 10 Owners, Letters Autumn 2005 Vol. 18 No. 3

of the MORRIS REGISTER

Ee&ister Topics
Ian Jenner of New Zealand draws our attention to a letter in the magazine of the Vintage Car Club of New Zealand. The writer, John Gibbs, describes a Morris 25 of 1934 which has been in his family since his grandfather bought it in 1935. He would like to hear from any other owner of this model. (e-mail: jgibbs@xtra.co.nz) .............................
John Gibbs' 1934 mode! Morris 25. Original mileage said to be 62,000. (Photo: V.C.C. of N.Z.J.

15

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One time member of the Morris Register, Hugh Baker, once owned a Series II Morris 12/4, registered CMA.797, which he sold to someone in Wales. He has some documents pertaining to the car which he would be pleased to give to the present owner. (Mr. Baker can be contacted at 29 Black Griffin Lane, Canterbury) ................ .......... Bev Hicks writes to remind us that the Vintage MG Yearbook 2004 is now available for 10.95 including postage (12.95 overseas). This latest version of the annual publication has 48 pages and celebrates 80 years of the MG. This yearbook is obtainable from Bev Hicks at Road, Hawthorn Eardisley, Church Cottage, Herefordshire, HR3 6NN. Cheques should be made payable to "MGCC-VR" ................................ According to the Museums of Essex Newsletter, the National Postal Museum was closed in 1998 and the collection, representing the history of the British Post Office, was put into storage in three main stores. The vehicle store, with over 35 vehicles, was kept in a former Parcel Force depot. After much negotiation with Royal Mail a site for a new store was finally agreed in 2003. The new premises, at Loughton, Essex, were originally intended as a new sorting office but never used. It would now appear that there will be an open day on the 1 7 September 2005. For more information, contact Libby Buckley of the Postal Heritage Trust. Telephone: 020 7239 2561 ....................... ............... Geoff Creese has come up with the complete answer to the puzzling Stewart & Ardern calculator ill ustrated in part in the Spring 2004 issue, page 165. Geoff provides us with illustrations of the separate parts that go to make up an average speed calculator. ............. . . One of the interesting Morris vehicles to be sold at auction last year was a 1928 Morris Oxford % Coupe, registered W.8684. Once owned by Morris Register member Terry Hayward, the estimate at the B.C.A. Classic & Historic Auction was 9,000 to 1 0,000 ...........
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Instructions: To find your average speed, slide centre until the time corresponds with the distance travelled. The arrow will then point to the average miles per hour.

1928 Oxford Coupe seen here at Stanford Hall M.R. Rally, in 1975, when owned by Terry Hayward.

33

Morris 18 Memories
By Tim James During the sixties, as for nearly everyone I knew, money was short. My father, being amongst the clergy, would secure holidays for our family by swapping houses and church services with other ministers. This agreement was simple, dad would cover their commitments and they, in turn would cover his. We regularly swapped our Swansea home for Harrogate, Exeter and Croydon but my personal favourite of all was Abergavenny, the very rural Llanddewi Skirrid to be exact. I think that the parishioners would pass their old cars to the local rector, who with great mechanical skills and a direct line to the 'Great Mechanic in the Sky' suspect, would extend the life of these engineering masterpieces. Anyway, this is where my passion for real cars was born. Such vehicles as a bevy of 1950's Alvis Grey Ladies, a 1930's Standard Little 9, a 1950's Ford Popular, a 1930's Morris Minor Tourer, a 1960's Bedford Minibus were parked under the trees and in the stables awaiting their turn to be used, and of course, played in!
A Series II 18/6 saloon decorated for a Royal occasion. Note the initials "ER" in anticipation of the coronation of Edward VIII, that never took place; he abdicated on December 10 `h 1936 after a reign of 325 days. This would date this photograph some time after (Photo: Ian Shinnie). January 20 th 1936 when George V died.

My favourite was a 1937 Morris 18 because it was ideal for hide and seek, off ground touch (along the runner boards, toes on hub caps and finally along the bumper edges) and family picnics up the Sugarloaf or perhaps to Raglan or White Castle! I recall going into Abergavenny to the local bughouse to see The Guns of Navarone' in the '18', of course on the journey home the Morris had turned into a German Staff car and on later ventures out, Tisstie tossties (pine cones) were used as grenades to pelt at the unsuspecting local inhabitants! We used to stand on the front and back seats, hang out of the roof and aim our explosive devices with great accuracy. By the time the locals turned round to see what was happening the rector's chariot was disappearing around the corner! The Morris looked right, imposing and powerful, which ever angle you chose, the car looked in the correct proportion. The massive art deco speedometer and the sunrise pattern in the leather held the attention of us little people!

This Series II 18/6 should prove a very interesting version when the restoration of the Australian bodied tourer is complete. (Photo: Graham Smith),

34

I first wrote to the Register in Autumn 1969 at the tender age of 14, expressing my wish to own that Morris one day. Two generous members of the MR sent me money to help in the quest, a lady from Middlesex sent me ten shillings and a gentleman with two Morrises and a Bean Tourer sent me a pound note and adding this princely sum to my modest paper round wages, I was on my way! I' d like to say a big 'thank you' to those two kind people (and hope they are reading this!). Having recently disclosed this information to Harry he somehow managed to track down the magazine in which my letter had appeared and this has prompted me to pick up my pen once again. Last November, some thirty-six years later, I purchased a 1937 Morris 18 and the pleasure and nostalgia I find in using it is almost ove rw helming. At last the paper round can stop! The 'new' Morris has helped jog my memory and allowed me to recall long forgotten details of the old car, events and memories of those halcyon lifetime ago. holidays, I suppose a short Another such adventure we went on with the Morris was to the then Montague Motor Museum in August 1969, to a Morris

Register Rally where I saw so many vehicles of the 1920's and 1930's. We camped in those days somewhere in the New Forest, in a huge old army tent that smelled of stale grass! Again Harry came up trumps and sent me an entry list of the vehicles at that meeting!! How well organised does he get? My Morris is YJ.5093, a black monster which now fills my garage. Even the smell inside the car takes me back to those happy and carefree days. It is in great condition and has been used for filming for the past few years. It has appeared in numerous films, normally as a police car, but it has been a government taxi and sometimes even a baddy's car! Now it has retired into my ownership and will get all the care and treatment it needs to maintain it.

I believe the actual Morris from Abergavenny was VJ.9719, dark green, but sadly I have been unable to locate it. It was sold in the eighties, I think to someone in the Newport area of Wales. The MR and DVL have no idea what happened o it and all people connected with it are now with the great mechanic himself!! Harry has informed me of these other details: Chassis: S2/ES 47 45. Engine: 6173. I often wonder if it survived. Now all that's left is for me to attend a MR rally and I look forward to this immensely! A special thank you to my two earlier mentioned sponsors and also to Harry Edwards for his commitment to the Register and its members.

MORRIS, WIRELESS, AND P.A.

In the early 1920's Wireless (the word "Radio" was not yet generally used) was beginning to interest almost everyone, the Editor of The Morris Owner at the time found that of the fifty motorist readers contacted, the majority were interested. There were those with a technical turn of mind who began to construct their own receivers in order to hear the broadcasts from the early stations such as Marconi's "2LO" from Marconi House in The Strand, Metropolitan Vickers station "2ZY" from Manchester and from Western Electric's "2WP" at Oswaldestre House, Norfolk Street, London. Stations, which were soon to be merged to become the British Broadcasting Company. Complete receivers would soon be on the market as well as kits of components to build your own. Marconi Co. of Chelmsford offered the first home receiving sets in 1922; these were single valve sets in preparation for the start of regular broadcasts by the B.B.C. in the autumn. Magazine publishers were quick off the mark with weekly publications such as the "Popular Wireless Weekly" in 1922. The daily press was not to be left out, exemplified by the now defunct Chronicle that provided complete details, shopping list and full size blueprint of the base board for their "Chronicle Family Two", a two valve T.R.F. receiver as the name suggests. Even "The Morris Owner"
1922 Damler with the D.F. Frame Aerial on the roof. The vehicle is taking part in a procession but when and where is not known.

By HARRY EDWARDS

Travelling Wireless station constructed for the Metropolitan Police, based on a Crossley chassis. Its 3-valve Transmitter set had a range of 50 miles. The 7-valve receiving set, also fitted, allowed the operator to listen over a range of 105 miles.

was not immune from the enthusiasm, for in the November 1924 issue Miles Thomas describes, complete with circuit diagram, his four-valve receiver that he had built into a writing desk. These receivers invariably had straight T.R.F. (Tuned Radio Frequency) circuits made more sensitive by use of a reaction or feedback control. The more sophisticated super-heterodyne had yet to come. Meanwhile a Cossor "Melodymaker" was a desirable receiver to have, complete with 120-volt dry H.T. battery, grid-bias 9-volt battery and the small glass 2-volt accumulator for the valve filaments. A regular trip to the local garage with the latter, to have it charged, was the normal routine for a younger member of the family. Involvement of the motor vehicle with the various aspects of wireless, both receiving and transmitting, was inevitable for both the professional and the amateur radio operator, or "ham" as they became known. The police were experimenting with radio (a term becoming used more and more) and to this end a Crossley van was specially constructed with a collapsible aerial array on the roof. The use of this vehicle in conjunction with a three-valve transmitter gave the police a range of fifty miles. The British Army with a Morris Commercial 0-type six-wheeler used a similar arrangement, known colloquially as the "Gin Palace".
35

Worcester who used a Morris Oxford Saloon of 1926 to carry the gear while towing a two-wheel trailer with the loud speaker mounted on its roof. One firm, who found the small Morris 5-cwt vans ideal for the purpose of hiring P.A. equipment, was Samson & Copps who were located at 34 London Road, Twickenham and of 3 The Broadway at St. Margaret's on Thames. The earlier vehicle they

Morris Commercial D-type six-wheeler "Gin Palace" Radio Vehicle. Note the folding aerial on the roof. The quaint vehicle on the right is a Martel two-man tankettte made by Morris Commercial. The detailed story of the latter appeared in The Journal, Spring 1972. Vol 6. No. 5.

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Morris Minor 5 cwt van of 1934 used by All India Radio to catch unlicensed Radio users.

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Owner of a 1925 Morris Cowley tourer involved in direction finding competition. In addition to the directional frame aerial the radio and the "Amp/ion" portable loudspeaker is shown here. The latter has space for the fold-up tripod during transit.

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A popular pastime for the various radio societies

throughout the country was to hold direction-finding

competitions. A transmitter was located in a field site and members would carry portable receiving sets in their cars or on their motorcycles and attempt to locate the transmitter by use of a directional frame aerial. More serious application of the technique was used in later years by the G.P.O. with their Morris detector vans. Into the 1930's the military were using small vehicles as radio cars, such as the Morris Minor and Austin Seven. However, this aspect has been covered in detail in The Journal for Autumn 2004 For the motorcar, another allied use was the P.A., or public address system. And Morris vehicles appear to have been well utilized in this area. Quite early on one

with two large speakers mounted on the reinforced roof. Subsequent equipment comprised a two-wheel trailer towed by a later side-valve Minor 5-cwt van (AMD. 197) of 1933. This too had large public address loud speakers on the roof. The trailers, of which there were at least two, were obviously designed with some thought, as the side windows had been included to allow the commentator to see and comment on the activities at the event. Gordon Stewart (the "Stewart" of the Morris main dealer in London, Stewart & Ardern Ltd.) had a charitable motive in mind when he made use of his coachbuilding facilities to construct a fleet of special Series II Morris 10cwt vans for his Coronation Year Children's Safety Crusade in late 1936.The decoration on the sides of the vans depicted the Pied Piper leading the children to the

such example was Mr. H. A. Bullock of Barbourns Road,

Note the substantial radio aerial used by Radio Ham R. Horsnall.

The Morris Cowley is circa 1926 and the location is Galleywood Common, Essex.

The Government of the day contributed 5,000 towards the expenses of this Crusade which was to make full use
of means and devices that appeal to eye and ear and

This trio are also in a direction-finding competition, this one organised by the Golders Green and Hendon Radio Society. A portable transmitter in a farmyard near Elstree sent out signals on a wavelength of 150 metres. The vehicle is a Morris Cowley circa

1923.

which was to cover every city, town and village in the country. Films, gramophone records, verses, puzzles, painting books, and games, were all used to spread the word. Children were asked to make the promise "I promise to do my best to obey the rules of safety when I am on the roads, when I am at home, when I am at work and play, and to try and help others to do the same". Lord Nuffield promised to double any individual subscription to the Crusade made in this country over the first week of the effort.

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WORCWER

Mr. Bullock's Oxford Saloon of 1926 and trailer.

The C.D.E. Acccumulator Service in South-West London used this 1936 Morris 8 van. (Photo: P. Robins)

As part of the Campaign, the B.B.C.'s Uncle Peter of Children's Hour (C.E.Hodges) helped Gordon Stewart to produce a safety film "Alert Today, Alive Tomorrow" which was said to have been viewed by 6 million people in the cinemas. A song, to the tune of the World War I soldier's song "Pack up your troubles" went: " Mind what you're doing, When you cross the road, Just stop.....look ..... think. Folks who are sensible And play the game From rash conduct shrink. What's the use of scurrying? To land on dangers brink? SO mind what you're doing When you cross the road, And stop...look.... think! In addition to the fleet of Series 11 10 cwt Morris vans, six larger 15 cwt Morris Commercial vans were similarly equipped with P.A. equipment and carrying the same Pied Piper livery.
Below: One of Sansom & Capps' Minor loudspeaker vans. This would appear to be a s. v. 5 cwt van of 1932, registered HX.8736. (Photo: R. G. Newman).

Above: A.E. Groves of St. Albans Road, Watford provided the O.H.V. Minor Saloon with loud speakers for this procession. The following lorry is a Morris Commercial 25 cwt (EUR.223) of 1939. (Photo: May Hemmings). One of Gordon Stewart's Coronation Year Children's Safety Crusade vans. A Series 11 Morris 10 cwt.

Left: George Adcock's Morris 8 van in P.A. guise. A 24 volt generator powered by two 12 volt batteries provided the power to produce the 240 volts needed for this equipment. On the left can be seen the tripod microphone stand and amplifier with disc player on top of the box. When not used fro Public Address work work. the Tannoy top was removed and the van used for delivery

37

Sansom & Capps' public address ensemble. At least two of these purpose made trailers were used. The towing van is a 1933 side valve Minor van registered AMD.197. (Photo: R. G. Newman).

Another of the Sansom & Capps' P.A. trailers, shown here set up for use in a spo rts event. (Photo: R. G. Newman).

With the roof well re-in forced to carry the weight of the dual loudspeakers, this Morris 8 cwt van is yet another that found favour with small radio shops. The registration number MU.9974 would indicate that Stewart & Ardern supplied the van when new. (Photo: Pat & Pete Weale).

38

Top: Lancashire Registered 1930 o.h.c. Minor four seat tourer, VA.9714. Photograph was Sent In by M. Dixon of Leeds. ,-.-e .-'

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Centre: CYX.96 a Series II Morris 11 making use of the cleaning process at the South London Motors Ltd. service station in Streatham in 1936. (Photo: Meccano Magazine).

Right: Malcolm Nash (who Supplied the photograph) shown in 1947 as a child. The family car was a 1934 Model Minor s. v. Coupe registered US.4267. Original price new would have been 170.

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Photo supplied by Tony Tomalin. The passenger is his grandma T. G. Tomalin. XP.4439, circa October 1923 London County Council registration. Rover 8. Horizontally-Opposed twin. Air Cooled. Some 17,000 of these were sold in 1920 to 1925. Electric starters were not optional until 1923. One of the most successful post W. W.1 machines. The driver is Herbert Gibbs.

The boy is John Peake and the r. woman in the passenger's seat is him mother Winnie. The other person, the = car and location (probably Essex) are unknown. Winnie was Ken Martin's grandmother. C1934.

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NORMAN BAMFORD'S WORK HORSE

I have had this 1932 side-valve Morris Minor since 1946. When explained to Michael Thomas (Morris Register P.R.O.) that I had altered the body and was undecided whether to put it back to original, and sent him a couple of photographs, he suggested it be kept as converted. I am now pleased that he persuaded me to keep it as a working car. It has been quite difficult to get used to the small controls, particularly the accelerator being in the centre of the other pedals. A strange feeling driving it again for the first time since 1959.

March 1983 when the Bashfords were moving farms. It would be another 20 years before the Minor was restored.

I ran an Agricultural contracting business until 1958, when the car was put away in the barn, along with general tools etc, It had carried hundreds of gallons of kerosene to the tractor in 5-gallIon drums, sometimes across ploughed fields. I had trouble with the spokes coming loose and to my shame I fitted disc wheels. When we were travelling some distance from home we would hitch the car on a pair of jockey wheels behind the tackle, as shown in the photograph, I even fitted a draw bar which I have retained. The Minor is mechanically original, even to the brake cables around the pulleys. Of course I have put the wheels back to the spoked type and I have enjoyed doing the rebuild.
41

I could write more as so many memories are revived. We toured the whole of Wales several times and the Minor never let us down. All the ash frame came off the farm and you can see on the photograph the "peasant" method of making the rear wings. I am afraid the photo of the car behind the tackle is not very clear it was the tractor etc that I was interested in when I took the photograph the car didn't matter at that time. How times change!!

Today

Norman Bashford's Leicestershire registered Oliver tractor.

42

DVLA
Sandy Hamilton Some recent enquiries have been about driving licence entitlements for those drivers renewing their 'lifetime' li cences at age of 70 (and at three year periods thereafter) where the relevant driving test was passed prior to 1 January 1997. New legislation was enacted in 1966 altering the basic licence categories, requiring additional tests for new drivers from 1 January 1997 who were seeking categories other than that covered by "B" (the basic car test) and imposing extra rules. Full details of the requirements are carried in form D100 available from local licensing offices and larger Post Offices. One change imposed a weight restriction for trailer entitlements; for category B a trailer no heavier than 750kg or not exceeding the weight of the towing vehicle and not exceeding 3,500kg in combination. Any other towing requirement can only be granted following passing of an additional test. As the B licence acts as the provisional licence for the B and E categories, holders of the B only entitlement can tow a trailer of a larger size but must be accompanied by a suitable qualified driver. (For clarity, I have simplified the descrpton and strongly recommend that you read the relevant forms for the precise terms and their meaning.) Existing drivers were entitled to retain their existing entitlements to tow trailers until their licence expired (vehicle and trailer up to 8.25 tonnes). At the time we were given assurance that although driving licences technically expired at age 70, all existing rights from pre-1997 passes would be grandfathered' and would not be withdrawn. That is in fact the case although as with many regulations the devil is in the detail. If a 70 year old applicant completes application form Dl then it will be renewed but with only the basic current categories; however, if an explanatory letter is submitted together with a duly completed form 04 all the former categories can be retained. This form D4 is a medical certificate that can only be completed by your doctor who is entitled to charge(and most certainly will) a fee. This procedure will be required every three years. If you fall into the 70-plus age bracket and have received a renewal licence with truncated categories, all is not lost. You can re-submit your application with a letter of explanation, form D4 and form D2. To date I have not been able to see a copy of this latter form but completion of it should enable categories that were removed and reinstate the entitlements that were permitted under the grandfather provisions. Why have I dwelt on this topic? Historic vehicle enthusiasts enjoy motor sport, boating and caravanning and frequently tow trailers. Many favoured towing outfits are large 4x4 combinations where the towing vehicle exceeds two tonnes; add a large twin axle caravan or racing car plus trailer and the combined weight will be In excess of the basic 3,500kg entitlement. As those users have many years of towing experience it would be unduly harsh to disregard this and require them to pass a mandatory test just because they have reached the age of 70. (The EU does not yet impose a universal mandatory age-related renewal.) This argument was accepted by our authorities hence the grandfather provisions. Previous newsletters this year have included reports on European legislation and these indicate that there is a

further Driving Licence Directive under discussion. (One item being proposed is an increase in the basic towing weight entitlements). Therefore any comments that I have made are qualified by the fact that they reflect the position administered at the present time by DVLA and under legislation agreed to and/or promulgated by our national parliament. (With acknowledgements to the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs).

Tips for Morris 10 Owners

In the early 1950's The Nuffield Corporation published a magazine "Motoring". (This was the successor to the "Morris Owner"), within its pages under the heading of Information Service were the answers to many of the questions our members ask today. Here are a selection of interest to Morris Ten owners. Clutch Thrust I notice that your service is very helpful to the owners of rather older models, and so I think that you may be able to save me a great deal of time and work. The model is a 1934 Morris Ten, and I am fairly certain that the clutch thrust ball race needs replacing, and being a skilled fitter I do not hesitate to do the job, but would like to know before starting whether to remove the engine, which I cannot do single-handed, or if this ball race can be removed by working from the gearbox end. To fit a replacement clutch race it is not necessary to remove the engine from the car, and it is suggested that when carrying out the work the following procedure is adopted. First of all disconnect the rear propeller shaft coupling by removing the nuts attaching the rear universal fork to the fabric disc, taking care not to lose the series of spacing washers between the fork arms and the centring spider and the fabric disc. Disconnect the front propeller shaft coupling by removing the nuts attaching the propeller shaft universal fork to the fabric disc. This will enable the rear end of the propeller shaft to drop clear of the rear fork, and the propeller shaft to be drawn rear-wards sufficiently to give the necessary clearance for gearbox removal. Remove the positive cable from the battery terminal and insulate its end to prevent the possibility of a short circuit. The starter cable should be disconnected from the starter terminals and the three starter fixing bolts extracted . This will permit the starter to be withdrawn from its housing. Now remove the gearbox cover and gear lever. Cover the top of the gearbox with any temporary sheet-metal cover to prevent any foreign matter finding its way into the gears. The two nuts attaching the hand brake quadrant to the gearbox should be removed. Withdraw the quadrant. Disconnect the brake lever from the pull rod by removing the clevis pin passing through the fork, and remove the split pin passing through the hand brake lever stud, thus enabling the hand brake lever to be withdrawn. Detach the speedometer cable from the gearbox, and remove the split pin locating the clutch pedal on the 43

clutch pedal stud. Withdraw the clutch pedal and connecting link from their respective studs. Withdraw the bolts attaching the clutch housing to the flywheel housing, not forgetting the bolt on the forward face of the flywheel housing, which screws into the starter housing. This will enable you to withdraw the gearbox and clutch housing rear-wards, at the same time rotating the clutch withdrawal lever in an anti-clockwise direction to enable it to clear the thrust race. When replacing the gearbox, care must be taken to see that the clutch withdrawal lever is pushed well down so as to clear the thrust race and engage the thrust face when allowed to rise with the clutch housing in position. With the gearbox removed you should then have no difficulty in unscrewing the thrust race nut with the aid of a suitable "C" spanner, which would afterwards enable you to withdraw the thrust race with the aid of a suitable withdrawing tool. The new thrust race can then be fitted, and reassembly would take place in the reverse order of that of dismantling.

Oil Leakage

I have a Morris Ten Series Ill and oil is leaking between the steering gearbox and the shaft to which the steering drop-arm is connected. Would you advise me if an oil seal is fitted to prevent such leakage; if so, where, and is it a difficult job to fit a replacement? There is a cork seal fitted on the steering box rockershaft to prevent leakage of the small quantity of oil which will normally work along inside the bush. The seal will be discovered when the drop-arm has been removed and the seal-retaining washer extracted from the face of the steering box. The seal should be renewed, and if the steering gearbox is otherwise in good condition the leakage will be eliminated. Should there be excessive lift In the rockershaft due to wear in the bush, the seal will not be able to cope with the oil, which may then pass along the shaft, and a new bush will be required. The movement of the steering rocker-arm to and fro assists oil to find its way to the cork seal and its presence in the bush is necessary to provide lubrication. A very slight quantity of oil leaking past the cork is therefore permissible.
Boot Lid Removal

Oil on Brakes

I own one of the once so popular 1935 Morris Tens. Though I am about the fourth owner it is a most reliable old car and I shall keep it until my ship comes home, enabling me to buy a latest model. Off and on I have had trouble with oil leakage into the rear brake-drums. Is there a permanent cure? Oil leakage into the brake-rums on this model can certainly be rectified, by installing felt and retainer assemblies. Part No. 66546, to each axle casing-inner tube. If you are reasonably handy you could, no doubt, do the job yourself. It is necessary first of all to detach the rear floorboard and remove the axle shafts and then the differential assembly complete with front cover, after unbolting the propeller shaft at the rear end and unscrewing the necessary nuts. Before introducing the oil retainers the axle casing should be cleaned and any burrs on the inside smoothed out with a file. Fit the retainer to the tube as shown in the accompanying ill ustration with the felts in both instances inwards, i.e. towards the centre tapping them gently into position. To secure, peen over slightly. This will prevent displacement when reintroducing the axle shafts.
44

In the course of building a stone wall I have been doing most of the transport, with the result that the luggage boot lid of my Morris Series "M" Ten has become damaged. Fortunately I have obtained another lid, but have not so far been successful in removing the old one. It appeared quite a simple job, but after undoing the hinges, "wangle" as I will, the extension piece at each side will not clear the opening and free the lid. Can you help please? The trunk boot lid can only be removed by sliding it into the spare wheel compartment after the boot floor and rear seat squab have been dismantled. After taking out the spare wheel, the boot floor (which is in two sections) can be released by undoing the six counter-sunk-headed fixing screws to be found i mmediately behind the rear seat squab reinforcement, together with eight screws that are fitted with plain and spring washers. These eight screws are located just inside the boot opening, and the nuts and spring washers are reached through the opening of the spare wheel compartment. It is a good plan to remove the spring clip for the spare wheel where this is detachable. The boot lid is detached by undoing the four screws in each hinge and folding the hinges against the lid. The lid handle and escutcheon plate must also be removed. Do not overlook the screw which is into the handle inside. Damage to pain twork can be avoided with the aid of an assistant who would help to slide the lid carefully into the spare wheel compartment. It must be raised at the rear end to clear the remaining spare wheel bracket and turned sideways so that it can be withdrawn.

Damper Check save just fitted new rear springs to my 1939 Morris Ten and have been told there is no need to fit new shock absorbers. Is this correct? The need for renewing the spring dampers must, of course, be decided after checking them. They are an essential part of the suspension and must be in good order. An indication of damper resistance can be obtained by making the following check. Remove the dampers from the chassis. Place them in a vice, holding by the fixing lugs. This is necessary in order to avoid distortion of the cylinder body. Now move the lever arm up and down through its complete stroke. Moderate resistance should be felt all the way in either direction. Should the resistance be erratic or free movement occur, lack of fluid is indicated, or there may be air in front of the pistons. If it is discovered that the addition of fluid gives no improvement, a replacement damper should be fitted. In the event of too much resistance being experienced, i. e. if it is not possible to move the lever arm slowly by hand, a broken internal part or seized pistons is suggested and the damper must be renewed. When topping up with fluid it is absolutely essential to avoid any particle of foreign matter finding its way into the damper. This cannot be emphasised too strongly. Before taking out the filter plug at the top of the damper it must be cleansed thoroughly. The fluid level must be brought up to within three-eighths of an inch of the top cover. Where dampers are removed from the car for this attention they must be kept upright, otherwise air may enter the operating chamber and result in free movement of the arm. Timing Chain Wear I have found it necessary to fit two replacement timing chains to my Morris Ten Series III in a little over 20,000 miles. The cause for wear has been attributed by my local repairer to poor lubrication. Since timing chains are difficult to obtain I wonder if you could advise me whether it s possible to improve the lubrication and thus increase the anticipated life. I gather an alteration has been made and, since the car is othe rwise proving a most faithful servant, particulars would be very welcome. Timing chain lubrication may be increased by introducing a groove 1/16 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep across the face of the camshaft front bearing from the main feed hole to the forward end. It is important that the groove is not extended down the bearing thrust face. The camshaft will need removing for the oilway to be formed, and it may be cut by the use of a hacksaw blade. Additionally, to guide the flow of oil to the chain via the duct formed in the chain socket, a deflecting plate, Part No. X22291, may be fitted. This plate will be secured by the sprocket bolt and fits behind the existing washer. Door Lock Some trouble has developed in the driver's door lock of my Series "M" Morris Ten-Four. The bolt of the lock will operate when the outside handle is turned. There is no movement of the bolt when the inside door handle is turned. To open the door from the inside I have to wind down the window on each occasion, put out my hand and turn the outside handle. What would cause this? Is the inner door handle operating lever broken?

It is unlikely that the operating lever will be broken, but the plate which is riveted to the bolt may have fractured. This plate is turned over at each end and operating levers engage. The inner handle operates on the rear lip, while the outer handle operates against the front one. To confirm that this is the trouble it will be necessary for the lock to be removed from the door completely and dismantled. This may be done fairly simply once the inner trim pad has been removed. The outer handle will pull out when the two securing screws are undone and the screw on the inside of the handle shank is removed. Before the lock can be withdrawn the forward window channel must be moved to give the required clearance. The top securing screw should be slackened and the bottom one removed. With the window raised to the top li mit the channel may then swing clear to give enough room for the lock to be withdrawn. Speedometer Removal The speedometer has gone wrong on my Morris Series II Ten, also the clock has been out of action for some time. It looks rather a tricky job to get them out to send to the makers. Please could you help? Removing the clock and speedometer will not be found difficult if these simple recommendations are followed: Disconnect the battery. Take off the dash mounting board by unscrewing the chromium-plated bolts locating it to the cage nut on the bottom of the glove boxes. Uncouple the oil gauge pipe and speedometer cable by slackening the clips fixing it to the scuttle dash. Slacken the four square-headed screws with tommy-bar holes, fixing the instrument panel assembly to the dash bracket. This will allow the instrument panel to be withdrawn as far as the cable permits. It is best to remove the clock first, then the speedometer can be taken out by undoing the three locating nuts, pulling the head clear of the studs and lifting upward and outward to clear the speedometer needle from the dial. Pulling Brakes My 1935 Morris Ten-Four has recently developed a tendency to pull over to the centre of the road when the foot brake is applied. I have examined the brake shoes and found them to be in good condition. The wheel cylinders are all working satisfactorily and the brakes have been bled and correctly adjusted. The tyres are showing approximately even wear and steering joints are in serviceable condition, while the spring U-bolts have been correctly tightened and adjusted. Could you assist me to rectify the complaint mentioned it has developed quite recently and I should appreciate suggestions. Since a very careful check has been made on steering joints, brake drums, shoes etc., it seem possible that brake fluid is not reaching the near-side front wheel cylinder at full pressure due to some restriction in the flexible rubber pipe from the chassis to the brake back plate. After many years of service, during which time the car may have been laid up for a considerable period, the flexible pipe may have swollen or become chocked with perished rubber, thus restricting the pressure of fluid. This would mean that the pressure exerted on the shoes of the off-side drum would be greater than that on the near-side drum and consequently there will be a tendency for the brakes to pull towards the centre of the road. 45

To rectify this it will become necessary to fit a new flexible pipe, and since the flexible pipe on the off-side will have seen similar service under the same conditions, it would be advisable to replace both pipes at the same ti me. After the pipes have been replaced it will be necessary to bleed the brakes, making sure all the air in the system is expelled. Banging in the Silencer After 12,000 miles t have had my Morris Ten engine decarbonised again, and the carburettor and distributor have been cleaned and reset. Now I find that on the over-run, particularly downhill, there is occasionally a loud bang that come from the exhaust pipe. Please will you tell me what you think is the cause of the explosion and how it can be cured? l must say that the engine seems to run quite well since the decarbonisation in all other respects. Presumably attention was given to the engine valves while the cylinder head was off, as it is most important that they make a gastight seal when all the carbon deposit has been removed. The valves should be carefully ground in with carborundum paste in order to make a proper seal; if necessary, both the valves and valve seats should be resurfaced with a grindstone. The tappets should also be set to the correct clearance to ensure that the valves open and close properly during running. An excessively weak mixture causing incomplete combustion in the cylinder might be responsible for the explosion in the exhaust, and it would be advisable to make certain that the throttle is closing properly, if necessary retuning the carburettor for correct idling. Mixture weakness, in turn, may be due to air leaks, and care should be taken to be sure that the manifold is evenly tightened down, replacing the gasket with a new one if there is any doubt as to its serviceability. It is also i mportant that the joints of the exhaust assembly and manifold are gastight, and any gaskets should be replaced if they are unserviceable. The ignition timing should not be over-advanced, and the plugs should be replaced if they have been in service for 10,000 miles or more. If an external examination of the engine fails to show the cause of the trouble, then you would be well advised to consult your local Morris Dealer, when the valves, valve guides, and valve timing should be examined. Erratic Charging Can you please help me with an electrical problem on my recently acquired Series `M" Morris Ten (30,000 miles)? The defect becomes apparent only when the car is running at charging speed. With sidelamps and headlamps "off" the charge rate is quite normal and remains so when the sidelamps are switched on, but when the headlamps are used the ammeter flicks to about 15 amps discharge. Except that the rate of discharge is proportionally reduced by switching back to sidelamps and then to `off'; the ammeter continues to show discharge. It is apparent that this state of affairs would continue indefinitely under these conditions, but by declutching and accelerating, the ammeter flicks over to charge (accompanied by a sudden increase in light brilliance) as the engine slows down, after which normal driving can be resumed with a satisfactory charge rate. 46

If the engine is started with headlamps on, the ammeter flicks over to "charge" as soon as the engine is accelerated to the normal "cutting-in" speed. The same applies if the three-position switch is at sidelamps" or "off" positions when starting. What is the cause of this peculiar behaviour and how can it be remedied? What is the cause of this The symptoms that you describe suggest that the dynamo is not supplying a full charge to the battery when the lighting circuit imposes its full load. In view of this the battery is probably in a low state. The trouble may arise as a result of several possibilities. It may merely amount to the need of adjustment so that the dynamo belt is in proper tension, thus avoiding the tendency to slip. Your comment that, by quickly raising the engine speed and switching on the headlamps, normal lighting is restored suggests that it is a matter of getting the dynamo to move quickly for its impetus to overcome the increased load. Similarly, when you start with the headlamps on, it has opportunity to deal with the load while the speed is raised gradually. It is switching in the load suddenly, when the dynamo is moving at moderate speed, that induces the slip. As a first step, the dynamo belt and its adjustment should be examined. Has some unsuitable or improvised belt been fitted? An inadequate belt of this kind will fit too deeply into the puller and slip in spite of full adjustment, tending to dive on the rot instead of the flanges of the pulley groove. The right sort of belt may be fitted, of course, but in view of the car's age , mileage and possibly neglect of adjustment, the pulleys may be so worn that slipping is inevitable. The answer must ten be found in the fitting of another pulley and belt. At the same tie, in such circumstances the crankshaft and fan pulleys should also be examined to see how they have fared, for their condition also influences the adjustment and drive. Finally, a careful examination of the battery its general condition as well as that of the electrolyte to see if it has suffered as a result of these conditions would be advisable. Clutch Noise I have recently purchased a Series lii Morris Ten from a friend and it is really in excellent condition, but I am rather concerned about a grating noise from the clutch when the pedal is depressed. Although the car is comparatively old it has not had a lot of use, having been laid up for a considerable period of its life, and ! should appreciate any advice me regarding this matter. With all vehicles of this type when a ball-bearing clutch thrust is employed this may be audible in operation to a slight extent and will be more pronounced after the car has been standing for some time and the oil has, in consequence, drained away. As this car ha had long periods of inactivity this will have occurred and condensation may have given rise to a certain amount of corrosion unless adequate garage ventilation was provided during those times. If you are satisfied, however, that storage conditions were satisfactory, it appears that you have no cause for concern, and with more regular running it is possible that the noise will diminish to a certain extent.

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0 I S

Dear Sir, Herewith details of a Morris Leon Bailee offered for sale in France recently.

Wow
1927
Reference 61301 KM 16575 km Cylindr 2200 cm' Etat carrosserie Bon Etat interieur Son Etat metanique Don Rat g^naral on Conduite Conduite a drorte Roule toutes distances soon Situation St Germain

MORRIS L BOLLEE MLB 22 000 Euros

$26 601 - "144 311 Francs)

I read your article again (Morris Register Journal, Winter 1990 page 61) which was very interesting. I wonder why some of the models were produced in RH drive as standard, perhaps for exporting to other places, I don't think it would have gone down well with the French! The engine size is stated as 2.2 litre, does this equate with 15.9hp for the standard MLB type? It is a very long car with the trunk (matte) and 2 spare wheels, and way out of my pocket at 22,000 euros. Yours etc., Roy Hammond, Xanton Chassenon, France (Editor's note: Left-hand-drive was general practice on popular continental cars by 1929, but more expensive models retained right-hand-drive well into the 1950's. No Bugatti had L.H.D., and Lancia's switch in 1956 was dictated only by the growing interest in American expo rts. Early Springfield (American built) Rolls Royces 19211923 were R.H.D. Sweden drove on the right-hand side until 1967,)

Dear Sir, Was there, during the 1930's, an embargo on release to the public new model cars until after the Motor Show at Olympia? Especially with regard to Morris cars, My reason for asking is that I have seen a copy of the October 1935 Show of The Motor", therein the review article notes that the new Special Coupe models were displayed on the Morris stand; a 12hp and 25hp respectively. My own 12hp Special Coupe was registered on 12 th October 1935 and the Motor Show ran from the 17 th to 26 th October. Clearly my car is an early example of the Series II 12/4, carrying the chassis number S2/TW.S8937, engine number S2552, type 12/4. Comparing my car with that owned by Mr. King of Haywards Heath, a Series II 12/4 but registered in 1936, I note some internal trim differences. Both cars are black with tan upholstery. The colour of the tan in my car is a shade lighter, and the doors have a bottom trim panel covered in Rexine simulated leather finish, matching the door window trims. Whereas Mr. King's car has carpeted lower panels matching the seat backs and floor carpets. Also his car carries a chrome trim strip around the body roof line extending up to meet he over-door chrome gutter strips while mine does not. I thought this was missing but checking the 1935 parts book inserts for the Special Coupe, printed in red, I note the chrome strip was not listed. Careful viewing of the catalogue appears to support the suggestion that initially a chrome trim did not exist. Also my boot opening handle clashes with the spare wheel cover whereas Mr. King's boot handle does not as it is located higher up the boot lid. I have made a 3/8" wooden wheel spacer to overcome this problem but it was not included in the Spare Parts List therefore it had always been like it. Similarly I found the floor base is not symmetrical when fitting new carpet, therefore indicating a considerable amount of hand build had been carried out. Can you confirm from your records if my car is a PreProduction model or if there are any Morris records at Gaydon which will advise its build history, as I know they did not make many of these and only four 12hp models seem to exist today. Yours etc., Ian Thompson, Datchet, Berkshire. Editor's note: You are basing your conclusions on some incorrect assumptions. Prior to mid-1935 Morris, in common with other motor manufacturers, brought out the new models for the following year at the London Motor Show. This practice meant that every year there was a pronounced dip in the sales figures in the period before the Show while the prospective new car purchaser awaited the Motor Show to see what would be new. The management at Morris Motors Ltd. decided that to smooth out the annual sales figures they would no longer only bring out the new models at the Motor Show, but would introduce them whenever they desired and no longer give these a model year but would create a 'Series" which would not be tied to a year. This is what happened around May 1935 when your Series II model was introduced. Certainly the Series 11 Morris models
47

were shown at the Motor Show in October and certainly they were justified in calling the models the "new" Series 11, after all, they had only been introduced that year. As for noting the "nitty-gritty" of details shown in contemporary catalogues and adverts, you should be warned that many of the photos used therein were taken using prototypes and the production models did not necessarily have such specific details. I take it that you make another assumption that your particular car is exactly as supplied? I wonder how many previous owners the car had and what modifications they made? Your particular car, chassis number S W. S8937, has had two previous owners who were Members of the Morris Register (Mrs. Perkins, and a Malcolm Saunders) so it is anyone's guess how many owners the car had before them. The Series II Morris 10/4 and 12/4 shared the same chassis number series. For the 10/4 they started at S N.49341 and finished S2 N.108704. The Series 11 Twelve started one number on, that is S2/TW.49342 and finished at S2 W.108659. You will note that this puts your car well into the Series. If you care to write to the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust, Archive Department, Heritage Motor Centre, Banbury Road, Gaydon, Waickshire, CV35 OBJ, they can supply a production record certificate with data taken from the original Morris factory production records which they hold. There is of course, a charge for this service.) Dear Sir, We seek help please through the pages of The Journal with the problem set out below. Can any Member please advise us. Our problem is with the rear hubs of a 1938 2-seater Morris 8. With the castellated hub nuts fully hardened up the hubs can be moved in and out by on one side 1/8 inch and on the 1/16 inch. Our queries are:(1) Should there be play at all? (2) is so, how much? (3) If not how do we eliminate it since there appears to be no means of adjustment. Is it necessary to make new bearing spacers? We wil be ver grateful for answers to the above I Yours etc., R.N.L. and T.M.L. Welby, Trull, Taunton, Somerset. (Editor's note: The following is an extract from the October 1950 issue of "Motoring" which was the successor to the Morris Owner magazine. HUB PLAY Some play has recently become apparent in the off-side front hub of my Series "F" Morris Eight. Is it possible to eliminate this by adjustment? No adjustment is provided on the front hubs of this car, and providing tat the castellated nut on the stub axle is tight, any excessive play is an indication of wear in one or both of the hub bearing races. Consequently it will become necessary to replace the bearing race concerned.) Dear Sir, This was my mother's Morris 8 four seater tourer, registration BAP.850, and I am curious to know if the vehicle is on your register 48

I enclose photographs of the Series II model which was sold during the war, about 1942, when my father was in the army. In 1955 I was working in the East Sussex County Council Office for a short time, in the Licensing Dept, and at that ti me the car existed in Sussex. I quite understand it is unlikely to still be on the road, but if by chance you have any news of the vehicle, I would be most interested to know. Yours etc., Mary Le Mesurier-Foster, Esher, Surrey. Editor's note: BAP.850 does not figure in past or present membership. I will record the details and should it sudace_you will be informed.)

Photo taken in Lindfield, Sussex, September 1939.

BAP.850 is an East Sussex registration of September 1937. (Photos: Mary Le Mesurier-Foster). Cover Photo: Morris Cowley Tourer of circa 1925, registered M0.3415. In background is The Elephant Hotel and the location is probably Reading. No doubt more knowledgeable Berkshire members can confirm or othe rw ise. (Photo: Eric Jackson).