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Rijeka
Summer 2019

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Rijeka 2020: City of Cultúr

N°19 - complimentary copy

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_ Port of Diversity
 Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword 4 Croatian Cultural Dictionary 44

A warm welcome from our editor in chief 13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

What’s On 6 Kvarner 46
Events galore Out and about

Remaking The Adriatic 10 Weekend Getaways 52

New Croatian Architecture Explore surroundings

Restaurants 13 Shopping 55
Lunch or dinner, you pick Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Local Flavour 22 Arrival & Getting Around 58

Keep tradition with cuisine Lost? Help is at hand

Coffee & Cakes 26 Rijeka Basics 61

“How’s that sweet tooth?” Making your stay stress free

Nightlife 29 Maps&Street Register

Are you ready to party? Street index / City centre map 62
City map 64
Sightseeing 33
Discover what we uncovered

The variety of fish in the Adriatic Sea exhibition in Natural History Museum, photo by Marinko Babić

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 Foreword
Rijeka may not be the best known city in Croatia, but it is
the city with the most potential. We already know what
Dubrovnik has to offer; while Adriatic near-neighbours
Split and Zadar have been spent the best part of a decade
luxuriating in the positive PR that comes from an ongoing
tourist boom.
Rijeka is the joker in the pack, a former industrial city that
concentrated on trade and commerce while other sea-
side municipalities built hotels and brought trucks full
of pebbles to fill out their new beaches. Preconceptions
can sometimes be turned round at unexpected speed,
however. Not only has Rijeka become a city of pavement
cafés, portside strolls, new museums (and yes, even here)
new pebble beaches, it has also garnered a reputation for
providing some of the best summertime entertainment
on the coast.
The advantages of its proximity to Belle-Epoque resort
Opatija have been rediscovered; it is now more attractive
than ever to spend a holiday sleeping in one town and
using the beaches and facilities of the other.
Rijeka is also on the ferry and catamaran routes to party
islands like Rab and Pag, bringing an additional breath of
youth and hedonism to a city that has never been shortof
energy. It will be Rijeka’s turn to be European Capital of
Culture in 2020, and many of the festive and live-music
events planned for next year are already being tried out
in summer 2019. With so much going on, there has never
been a more promising time to visit.
4 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1845-5514
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
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Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea Pisac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Design Ivana Mihoković
Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover www.rijeka2020.eu
Facebook/Instagram/Twitter/Youtube: rijeka2020
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
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Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop-
yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica-
tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
purpose of review, without written permission from the publish-
er and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
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 Eros Ramazzotti, Vita ce n’è World Tour, August 15th, Open Air Theatre Opatija, part of ‘Open Air Theatre Opatija - Summer 2019’

What’s On
Enrich your calendar, see the
exhibitions, concerts, and special
events in and around town

Exhibitions
17.05 - 01.05 » The variety of fish in the
Adriatic Sea
An analytical insight into the integral role into how fish
have a huge impact on the biodiversity of the Adriatic sea.
At this point, there are approximately 458 vast species in
our sea, making it one of the richest seas in the Mediter-
ranean. The photos here touch our very conscience in why
species are becoming endangered, picturing the causes
of degradation and habitat destruction through various
ways. QThe Natural History Museum, Lorenzov prolaz
1, www.prirodoslovni.com.
06.06 - 11.07 » The Radoslav Putar Prize
The four finalists of the Radoslav Putar Prize, presented
every year to the most promising young Croatian artist,
get to show why they were placed on the short list. It’s
certainly a splendid introduction to what Croatian artists
are doing these days. 2019 finalists are Sabina Mikelić, Pre-
drag Pavić, Božidara Katić and Tin Dožić.QD‑2, Mali salon,
Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.
01.01 - 31.12 » The First in the World – Rijeka
Torpedo
You are at home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th
century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original
objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of
gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment
for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a
model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a
launching station and numerous screenings. Why? Because
Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented! O​ pen by
prior arangement. B-1, Željezničko skladište, Žabica
4Q40/20kn, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Everyday. 06.06 -
06.06 - 04.09 » Marc Chagall – Colours of
Love
What a bumper event in the heart of Rijeka with visitors able
to see 93 of Chagall’s works, including lithographs, copper
art, works on wood and other drawings. The exhibits range
from his early 20s to mid-80s and depict his creative love
for homeland, origin, religion, spirituality, and more.QF‑2,
Kortil, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65.
14.06 - 31.08 » New time, second half
Due to the small space of the Rijeka City Museum it is soon
to be relocated to the former administrative palace of the
sugar refinery and Benčić factory in less than a year. The
exhibition depicts the museum’s journey by using items
from several of its collections which are testimony of the
city’s past three centuries of urban life (paintings, sculp-
tures, postcards, clothing, photographs, the biographies
of famous locals) and more.  QCity Museum of Rijeka,
Trg Riccarda Zanelle 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.
12.07 - 08.09 » Vlado Martek: Multi-title
exhibition
The first retrospective of 300 art works of mixed genres
by Vlado Martek in Rijeka. The exhibition leaps from one
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What’s
What’s On
On
media form to another with a focus on the artist's experi-
mental treatment of language from the 1970s till now. It’s
the dual position of a visual artist and poet who obses-
sively accepts the analysis of language in the role of art.
QA‑1, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum,
Krešimirova 26c, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.
Festivals
14.06 - 15.06 » Dark Circle Fest
The abandoned factory halls of the Hartera complex
provide a suitably gritty backdrop to this festival of dark
metal, with bands performing on two stages over two
days. Headlining are Kryn and Nanowar of Steel. Q-2, Har-
tera FactoryQwww.facebook.com/darkcirclefest.
21.06 - 23.06 » Krk Music Fest
Krk is all set to become the centre of attention, with Krk
Music Fest. This 3 day event will see the island town of
Krk transformed into a centre of music, food, and culture!
There are 5 main locations in the town where you can find
something to enjoy, but that’s not all there’ll be. Qwww.
krkmusicfest.com.
Film
19.06 - 11.09 » Seeing! A Photon’s Journey
Across Space, Time & Mind
Is astronomy your hobby? Are you fascinated by stories
about the Universe? Then head to the city’s Astronomi-
cal Centre where each Wednesday the digital planetarium
shows the film “SEEING! A Photon’s Journey Across Space,
Time & Mind” in English. Groups of 8 or more, to see differ-
ent films that Centre offers in more than 10 languages, can
pre-book at 051/455 700, via e-mail astronomski-centar-ri-
jekas@rijekasport.hr or FB Page Astronomski centar Rijeka.
QThe Rijeka Astronomical Center, Sveti Križ 33.
26.08 - 30.08 » The 17th Liburnia Film Fes-
tival
One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian docu-
mentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors
flocked to open-air stage in Opatija last year, to get a first-
hand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the
event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audi-
ence alike! All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free
entry for all screenings.Qwww.liburniafilmfestival.com.
10.09 - 14.09 » History Film Festival
Each day we discover something unknown from the
past, from unravelling hidden truths, conspiracies,
through to moments in war and so on. This festival is
here to appraise new historical documentary films pro-
duced both independently and via official TV companies.
Thematic conferences, seminars, film author workshops
and more can be experienced as it’s the perfect gath-
ering for film buffs and those in the industry.  Qwww.
historyfilmfestival.com.
Summer 2019 7
 What’s On
Jazz & Blues
05.07 - 07.07 » The 19th Liburnia Jazz Fes-
tival
Three nights of top quality jazz in the open air. The festival
begins with pianists Matija Dedić and Vasil Hadžimanov
and closes with bulgarian trio PlaYIS. Sandwiched inbe-
tween will be Maria João/OGRE and Bojan Aleksovski
with David Baumgarten and their Sinatra project.Qwww.
liburniajazz.hr.
Special/Miscellaneous
Events
08.06 - 15.08 » open air theatre opatija
summer 2019
Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting
attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from
classical music through musicals and operas, to contem-
porary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in
the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts
by hit performers such as Diana Krall (July 16) and Eros
Ramazzotti (August 15). Check the whole programme on-
line.Qwww.festivalopatija.hr.
28.06 - 30.08 » Kastav Cultural Summer
From its beginnings in the 90's when it consisted mostly
of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of
the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other fields
Vlado Martek_what is art, The Modern and Contemporary Art Museum Rijeka
8 Rijeka In Your Pocket
and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions
and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local
and European festivals. KastavQwww.kkl.hr.
29.06 - 29.07 » The Margaret’s Summer
A long lasting event where visitors are really given an edu-
cation on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, tra-
ditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and
more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons
light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a
key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Vene-
tians attacked the town. BakarQwww.tz-bakar.hr.
06.07 - 01.09 » Summer on Gradina
Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at
the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s
program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing concep-
tual program placed around different parts of the fortress,
as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and pre-
sentations. This is the 14th edition and the action kicks off
on July 6th with the event of lighting 5000 candles and
lasts until September 1st. Just being up on Trsat is a breath
taking experience!Qwww.trsatskagradina.com.
12.07 - 13.07 » (Sr)etno Selce - Ethno Fes-
tival
The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots
and are proud to present their cultural heritage through
authentic products and dishes, national dances and old
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costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing
coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the en-
ergy, the past!Qwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.
16.07 - 18.08 » Osor Musical Evenings
Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that
was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is
the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The
aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage
or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for
the Osor Musical Evenings.Qwww.osorfestival.eu.
19.07 - 23.07 » Adriatica Folk Fest
Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place.
Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from
their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun
and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs,
soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instru-
ments will perform. Crikvenica & Novi VinodolskiQw‑
ww.adriatica-folk-fest.com.
19.07 - 21.07 » CrikvArt
Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and
waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musi-
cians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they
will most certainly put a smile on your face! Crikveni-
caQwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.
08.08 - 10.08 » The 495th Lovrečeva – Krk Fair
Can you believe that this fair began way back in 1524 in
celebration of the Feast of Saint Lawrence, patron to the
island of Krk. Once a Roman province, the Kamplin Square
will serve as the main stage as it unfolds age old tradi-
tions; hear and see tales of the Frankopan noble family
and pirate voyages, Roman legionnaire re-enactments,
Glagolitic chants, medieval dances, jousting and more.
KrkQwww.tz-krk.hr.
Sport
19.09 - 29.09 » Thousand Islands Race
Sailing addicts mustn’t miss the chance to sail along the
entire Adriatic this summer. In an official race, the regatta
passes more than a thousand islands over two stages. The
race starts in Rijeka and finishes in Porto Montenegro in
Stage 1, and then the fleet navigates back to Rijeka along
the same course to complete Stage 2. Technical challeng-
es, winds, waves, and many other variables will test even
the very best sailors.Qwww.scor.hr.
28.09 10:00 » King of Učka
Are you an avid cyclist? Are you up for a challenge? Then
get ready to ‘pedal to the metal’ in this recreational road
bike race which leads from Ičići (at sea level) and ends
up to the highest peak of the Učka Mountain named Vo-
jak (1396m). The ride is a true battle but the reward once
you get to the top and its views will be worth every sweat
you pour. So come and join the fun and accept the chal-
lenge!  Qwww.kingofucka.com.
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What’s
What’s On
On
Rijeka 2020
One of the things that makes Rijeka such a fascinat-
ing place to visit in 2019 is the fact that the whole
city is getting ready for 2020, the year when the Bay-
hugging city will serve (alongside Galway in Ireland) as
European Capital of Culture. Operating under the title
“Port of Diversity”, Rijeka’s 2020 plans aim to highlight
the historical and cultural complexities of what has fre-
quently been a crossroads of peoples and fates.
An important aspect to the lead-up to the event has
been the preparation of cultural infrastructure that will
serve the city well in the coming year, and provide last-
ing value in the years that follow. The former Benčić fac-
tory, a sprawling mass of red brick and plaster standing
opposite Rijeka railway station, is an important focus of
post-industrial repurposing: the Museum of Modern
and Contemporary Art moved into part of the complex
last year; the City Museum will take over the factory’s
lovingly-restored, late-Baroque administrative building
at the end of 2019. With a new public library planned
for the remainder of the complex, Benčić will become
a knot of cultural activity for generations to come. An-
other idea developed with the future in mind isRi-Hub, a
municipally-run co-working and conference space that
also functions as a coordination centre for neighbour-
hood cultural and social initiatives. One major project
that looks et to impact on the tourist imagination is
the restoration of the Galeb, the official yacht used by
Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito currently moored on
Rijeka’s seafront. Purchased by the city of Rijeka, the hulk
will reopen as a museum that looks set to become a ma-
jor historical attraction. There are also plans to smarten
up and revitalize the area where the river Riječina flows
into the sea: Nikola Bašić’s non-denominational house
of prayer is one mooted structure that may or may not
be built in time for the big event.
The onset of Rijeka 2020 has also led to a host of fresh
initiatives in the festival sphere, with many new sum-
mer events tried out experimentally in 2018-2019 to
see how the programme for 2020 will shape up. It is
hoped that the best of these events will survive long-
term, providing the city with a summer-long arts-and-
music profile. Hence we are already into the second
year of CiklusFurioza, a spring-summer cycle of con-
certs that concentrates on female performers with an
indie background.Other festive events green-lighted
for 2019 and 2020 include Porto Etno, celebrating the
food and music of the multifarious ethnic groups that
make up Rijeka and its hinterland; and Sweet & Salt, an
indie-meets-electronica music festival that makes the
most of urban locations.
Elsewhere the 2020 team are putting the finishing
touches to a packed programme of exhibitions and
events. The accent will be on communities, local cul-
ture and lasting legacy, with particular attention to
the outlying island and village communities that don’t
always feel as if they are part of the big urban picture.
More details on www.rijeka2020.eu
Summer 2019 9
 Museum of Apoxyomenos, photo by Bosnić&Dorotić

Remaking the Adriatic

New Croatian Architecture
 Architecture & Tourism
Adriatic architecture is all the rage these days, with fans of
modernism yearning nostalgically for the fantastic hotels
built along the Croatian coast in the 1970s and 1980s. The
tourism-driven building boom of those years gave Croa-
tia’s seaside an easily identifiable, contemporary image.
Nowadays a new generation of architects are renewing the
region’s reputation as a place for innovation and good de-
sign. The advertising slogan of the Croatian National Tourist
Office famously used to read “Croatia: The Mediterranean
as it Once Was”. Maybe “Croatia: the Mediterranean of the
Future” would be a suitable replacement in the years ahead.

The question of contemporary Croatian architecture –

what should it look like, and what should seaside cities do
to improve public space for locals and visitors alike – is a big
local issue in the historic port city of Rijeka. As a major in-
dustrial hub, Rijeka brings to the forefront all the questions
about how industrial heritage should be repurposed. As a
designated European Capital of Culture in 2020, Rijeka has
also taken on the mantle of artistic showcase, with various
projects designed to show the future direction of Adriatic
art and design.   

One of the central planks of Rijeka 2020 is the Sweet & Salt
strand, a programme which focuses on a particular post-
industrial strip of the city and looks at ways of bringing new
functions to”lost” urban spaces,nurturing new ideas in ur-
ban planning at the same time. The project will continue
a process that has already begun, that of transforming the
area beside the river Riječina and the Molo Longo pier into
a lively pedestrian strip. 

Arguably the most exciting part of the project is the

planned Ecumenical Pavilion, a non-denominational house
of prayer and meditation designed by the legendary Za-
dar architect Nikola Bašić. Taking the form of a smallwhite
rotunda enclosed in a spiral, the pavilion is inspired by the
sweeping form of the Milky Way, and is designed to focus
the mind of the visitor on the infinite. As well as being the
perfect example of Bašić’s visionary style (and more on him
later), it also serves as an ideal metaphor for Rijeka’s toler-
ant, multicultural, multi-faith and no-faith identity. Placing
it in a former industrial zone beside the Riječina river lends
this part of town a whole new image.

Leader of the Sweet & Salt strand Idis Turato has invited
the cream of the Croatian art and design world to come
up with ideas for 2020, although it is as yet unclear which
of them will actually get built. Turato himself has already
made a profound mark on the Adriatic architectural scene,
designing (with erstwhile studio partner Saša Randić) the
quite extraordinary Museum of the Apoxyomenos in Mali
Lošinj. Despite being housed inside a 19th-century villa,
the museum boasts an almost space-age interior, with the
statue of the Apoxyomenos itself housed inside a white
capsule. Randić and Turato were also responsible for the
amazing Fran Krsto Frankopan elementary school on the
island of Krk, together with its futuristic sports hall and ac-
companying public plaza. Turato’s work for private clients
– the boldly cubist Villa Gumno on Krk, and the audaciously Museum of Apoxyomenos, photo by Bosnić&Dorotić

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019 11

 Architecture & Tourism
space-age Nest and Cave House in Volosko – have adorned
the pages of architecture magazines around the globe. 

However it is arguably Nikola Bašić who is the doyen of the

new Adriatic style, having won worldwide fame for design-
ing the Sea Organ on the seafront at Zadar. Completed in
2005, this innovative use of public space consists of organ
pipes mounted inside a broad stairway that leads down to
the sea. Activated by lapping waves, the pipes produce a
soothing if not always musical polyphony that’s the perfect
accompaniment to a spot of maritime meditation. The or-
gan really gets into its stride when the sea is choppy. Given
the famed beauty of Zadar’s sunsets, it’s a wonderful place
to sit in the evening, when it attracts quite a crowd.  

Three years later Bašić added Greeting to the Sun, a large

disc set into the paving stones of the coastal promenade,
and consisting of light-sensitive cells that absorb solar en-
ergy by day and emit a kaleidoscopic array of colourful light
come night-time. Together with the Sea Organ, situated a
few metres away, Greeting to the Sun has transformed this
part of the Zadar seafront into a lively social forum for min-
gling, moving and hanging  around. Zadar, suddenly cata-
pulted into the premier division of forward-looking resort
towns, has never looked back.

Bašić has also helped to change the face of Šibenik, design-

ing the seductively curvaceous blob that is the Hotel D-Re-
sort, complete with its rooftop gardens. Bašić is the brains
behind the (yet unrealized) plans for transforming Šibenik’s
transport network, with a huge escalator linking the shore-
line Dolac district with the hilltop St Michael’s Fortress, and
a cable-car ascending to the fortress of Barone and St John.

Šibenik is a good example of a city that has pushed its

post-industrial woes into the background thanks to sound
strategic thinking: Šibenik’s Banj beach, on a stretch of
coastline that was previously out of bounds due to near-
by factory installations, is an exemplary piece of modern
landscaping that serves as a useful model for other Adriatic
destinations.

Indeed there is talk of resurfacing rivas and making-over

marinas all over the Croatian coast. Plans for Baška on the
island of Krk envisage a new promenade behind the beach
and a floating performance stage; the island of Susak has
just opened an all-new seafront walk. Betina, already trans-
formed by the opening of the Museum of Wooden Ship-
building, has a newly paved port area that combines boat
moorings with a piazza-style public space.

Perhaps the most illustrious exponents of the new Adri-

atic architecture are Zagreb studio 3LHD, who redesigned
maritime Croatia’s most famous public space – the Riva
in Split – as well as building hotels in the Istrian resort of
Rovinj, and an impressive sports hall in the Rijeka suburb
of Zamet. Judging by the neat geometric terraces of 3LHD’s
brand-new Hotel Park in Rovinj, Adriatic modernism has a
bright future.
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
By Jonathan Bousfield

12 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com


SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
B Outside seating L Guarded parking
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
W Wifi J Old town location
Croatian
Konoba Municipium
Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Muni-
cipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious
restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes,
the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije
5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14. Open
10:00-23:00; closed Sun. (70 - 170kn). A­P­G­X­T­
B­J­W
Konoba Nebuloza
Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn),
Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant
with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic
interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites,
with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style
sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local
pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb
stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov
trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, www.konobanebuloza.
com. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. (75
- 200kn). A­P­G­T­J­W
Nono Frane
Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka
to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit
and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared
the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to
homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here
are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy
to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel.
(+385-51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.com. Open 11:00-
22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-23:00. (50 - 90kn). A­P­G­X­
T­B­S­L­6­W
Placa 51
When you have a dream, and that dream comes true:
that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s
newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51
with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines,
and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new
interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being
available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the
ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and
lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva
Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54. Open 09:00-23:00;
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Restaurants
Sun 11:00-18:00. July - August Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 180 kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­
J­6­W
International
Kamov
Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restau-
rant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing
ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively com-
bined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good
wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.
QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr.
Open 11:00-23:00. (80 - 170 kn). A­P­G­T­L­W
Sorriso
Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso
has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green
hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu,
which changes every three months to include seasonal
ingredients, features light food with interesting combina-
tions of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and
fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest
fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/(+385-)
091 271 10 66, www.restaurant-sorriso.com. Open
12:00-22:00. (40 - 80kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W
Spagho
Just a stone throw from the Korza boardwalk, Spagho is
the Italian Stallion of restaurants in Rijeka with a mega
menu on offer. Sure, the chef’s daily specials are up, but
the variety here goes beyond pizza, risotto and pasta, with
steaks, soups, salads and desserts aplenty. The interior is
a lovely fusion of wood and stone, and they also have an
outdoor terrace. Open 10am for brunch through till late in
the evening.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11
22/091 11 00 63 0, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open
11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. (50 - 200 kn). A­P­G­
X­T­B­S­V­J­W
Konoba
Blato
In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled
floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion
- charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an
unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in
a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33
69 70. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-18:00; closed Sun.
(35 - 80 kn). A­P­G­X­T­W
Girica
Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that
of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail
and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be
had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the
Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67
72 20, www.konoba-girica.incroatia.info. Open 09:00-
23:00; closed Sun. (38 - 150 kn). A­P­G­T­L­W
Summer 2019 13
 Restaurants
Ive
This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family
of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest sea-
food to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51)
62 62 65. Open 10:00-24:00; closed Mon. (120 - 150 kn).
A­G­X­T­B­L­6­W
Konoba Volta
A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or
light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu –
no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal
specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).
QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 83 00 30. Open
13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. (35 - 105kn). A­P­G­
X­T­B­W
Tarsa
The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of
the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-
style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest,
making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or
cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2,
Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89. Open
10:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00; closed Mon. (60 - 180
kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­L­6­W
Trsatica
A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and
even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace ca-
pable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to
the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions
are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors
so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone
is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.
QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51)
45 27 16, www.restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:00-
23:00. (60 - 150 kn). P­X­T­B­6­W
14 Rijeka
Dobrinj In Your
Tourist Board Pocket
Archives
Ethnic
Mexican Cantina Bodega
What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and
a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of
the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles
around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals
give it rave reviews in any case – especially for its choco-
late pancakes, which we are told have driven some devo-
tees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca
10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91. Open
10:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. (50 - 80kn). A­P­G­
X­T­B­L­W
Peking
You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed
Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city
centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the
excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has es-
tablished an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića
18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, www.pekingrestaurant.
fullbusiness.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (40 - 120 kn).
A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­W
Pizza
Maslina na Zelenom trgu
A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a
focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from
the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer,
particularly their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg
also has his daily menu with local produce specials such
as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles,
wasabi tuna, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov
trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr. Open
11:00-24:00; closed Sun. (26 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­
B­S­J­W
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

O’Hara
From Zagreb to Rijeka, this pizza franchise is booming
with their one-of-a-kind authentic Napolitano style piz-
zas. The entire process has ‘Naples’ written all over it,
many of the ingredients derive from the city as do the
recipes (including the making of the dough). The oven is
one of a kind and the entire process is open for visitors to
watch the pizza makers in action. Get a real tasty of Italy
at O’Hara’s.  QRiva 12a, tel. (+385-51) 56 88 88, www.
facebook.com/ohararijeka. Open 08:00-24:00.
Pampas
A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim
shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV‑2, Slavka
Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58/091 219 05 80.
Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 70 kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­S­
V­W
Pizzeria Bracera
A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka op-
posite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a
rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay
oven are among the best in town, and they do great big
crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24
98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00-24:00.
(32 - 95kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
www.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Restaurants
Quick Eats
Bar Bar
Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering
for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Ro-
man stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to in-
terior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee
with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients.
There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more.
Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as
memoirs! A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel.
(+385-) 099 331 72 08, www.bar-bar.eu. Open Mon
10:00-24:00; Tue 10:00-02:00; Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu
10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00; closed Sun. (8 - 30 kn).
A­P­B­S­J­W­K ­i
Buffet Cocco
Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery
come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade
food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter
will be the owner who really shines in making your experi-
ence a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26
50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-
15:00; closed Sun. (35 - 110 kn). A­G­X­T­B­W
GRAD kavana&bar
Situated on the waterfront just short of the ferry termi-
nal, Grad is one of those all-purpose café-bars that are a
good place to grab a bite to eat or drink coffee during the
Summer 2019 15
 Restaurants
daytime, or plough your way through the drinks menu
at night. Six daily specials are chalked up on a board ev-
ery lunchtime, all displaying a deft combination of local
seasonal ingredients and contemporary European savvy.
Boutique gins and a good wine list might just keep you
here until closing time. QRiva Boduli 7B, tel. (+385-) 091
272 61 63. Open 08:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun
08:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­J
Mornar
Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.
Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try
homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically
any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli
5b, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22. Open 09:00-23:00. (22 - 140
kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­J­6­W ­i
RICA Gluten Free
This health-oriented café-bakery right opposite the Na-
tional Theatre serves some awesomely good fare; no won-
der the outdoor terrace is one of Rijeka’s most popular
people-watching spots. Snack on savoury burek or sand-
wiches, or opt for the hard-to-resist cakes, syrupy baklava
and creamy slices of kremšnita. You can also buy loaves
of bread and packets of biscuits from the bakery counter.
QVerdijeva 3b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 93, www.rica.hr.
Open 07:00-21:30; closed Sun. A­P­B­J­W
Seafood
Feral
Croatian classics – it’s a simple place with a small menu –
which often means that what they do, they do well. Qual-
ity wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije
Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, www.konoba-feral.
com. Open 08:00-24:00. (30 - 100 kn). A­P­G­X­T­
B­S­W
Na kantunu
Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget pric-
es. Comfortable outside seating stretching by the Dead
Channel with an excellent view of the fortress Trsat. With
a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s
architects’ community.QE‑3, Wenzelova 4, tel. (+385-51)
31 32 71. Open 08:00-24:00; closed Sun. (50 - 200kn).
A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W
Vegetarian
Klub Makrovega
Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health
food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at
reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through
they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared
using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods,
and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu
offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are
also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the
regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45.
Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. (15 - 30 kn). N­P­
G­T­S­6­W
16 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar
This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy,
warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural mate-
rials and warm colours created by the owners who spent
years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes
and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the
popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say.
The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they
are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemi-
cals or concentrates. They also deliver.QE‑2, Užarska 14
- u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 624 05
24, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat
07:00-15:00; closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). N­G­X­T­B­
V­J­6­W ­i
Tifan
Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetar-
ian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food,
weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks
and sweets can be found ‘till 4pm from Monday to Satur-
day with the possibility of home deliveries made in stain-
less steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene
boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098
85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 07:00-16:00; closed Sun.
(30 - 60 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W ­i
Kvarner Restaurants
Cres
Konoba Beli
When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for
what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch,
you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a
hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines,
served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come
back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres,
tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, www.beli-
cres.com/konoba-beli/. Open 10:00-22:00. (60 - 140kn).
N­P­B
Ičići
Commodore
A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina
complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particu-
larly known for its separate pasta menu which offers speci-
alities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska 7a, Ičići, tel.
(+385-51) 70 40 49/(+385-) 098 982 26 23. Open 12:00-
22:00. (50 - 360 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W
Dopolavoro
If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of
Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this
excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istri-
an specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat
ispod peke style – it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.
QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222
53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. Open 12:00-22:00. (50 - 140
kn). A­G­X­T­B­S­L­W
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants

Photo byfacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Višnja Arambašić Summer 2019 17
 Restaurants
Kastav
Mala riba
This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’
where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives…
in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly
around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main
road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav,
tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open
11:30-23:00. (70 - 110 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
Kostrena
Kostrenka
Hidden away in Kostrena just east of Rijeka, this is a real
find for those prepared to rove far and wide in search of
good local food. The emphasis is on seafood (with trad
inexpensive dishes like whitebait rubbing shoulders with
the finest white fish), although there are plenty of meaty
alternatives, including regional specialities like žgvacet
(lamb stew) from the island of Krk. And there’s a full range
of pizzas to keep all family members happy. Reserve time
for the lemon-meringue pie.QRožići 3, Kostrena, tel.
(+385-51) 28 31 79, www.kostrenka.com/. Open 12:00-
23:00; closed Tue. (45-110kn). A­P­B­S­W
www.inyourpocket.com
Stancija Kovačići Archives
18 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Krk
Bracera
This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront
is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled
meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice
is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” – sardines or similar.
Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1,
Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, www.konoba-
bracera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (45 - 300kn). N­P­
G­X­T­B­W
Konoba Nada
If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and
fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that
flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the
spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie
pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik,
Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. April
- October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (135 - 175kn). A­P­G­
X­T­B­W
Konoba Ribice
As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you
should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A
sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old
Punat.QUlica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091
184 13 01, www.konoba-ribice.com. Open 18:00-01:00.
(30 - 70 kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
Rivica Restaurant
Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hos-
pitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic
experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important
is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cui-
sine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high
on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus
blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar
inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.
QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01,
www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 200 kn). A­P­
X­T­B­J­6­W
Vinotel Gospoja
Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home
made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash – a
type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners,
the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of
žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopan‑
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Restaurants
ska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 66 93 50, www.gospoja.
hr. Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 200 kn). A­G­X­T­B­
S­L­W
Lovran
Draga di Lovrana
Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near
Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find
fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch
themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try home-
made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the
terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29
41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon
18:00-23:00. (120 - 240 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W
Lovranska vrata
With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town,
directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant
spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood speci-
alities.QTrg Sv Jurja 94, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 10 50.
Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 150 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2019 19
 Restaurants
NaJade
Classic good food – fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a
rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting
staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the
coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran,
tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00-24:00. (70 - 200 kn).
A­P­G­X­B
Matulji
Stancija Kovačići
Idyllically positioned below Mt. Učka and above Opatija.
With a flair for tradition, chef Vinko Frlan favours local pro-
duce above all with meat, fish, cheese, Istrian prosciutto,
truffles, olive oil and herbs grown in the restaurant garden.
Not to mention the Boškarin beef, lamb baked under the
iron bell, dishes with asparagus, nettle, wild garlic, home-
made pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, homemade bread and more.
The fusion of contemporary meets tradition is scene not
only in the menu but in the stunning architecture of the
restaurant which also houses a serene outdoor terrace.
Stancija Kovačići is perfect for a weekend getaway as
they have five rooms for accommodation with the Učka
Nature Park nearby, mesmerising Opatija down below,
and lots of hiking trails in the surrounding area. This hid-
den gem is well worth a visit when exploring the Kvarner
region!QRukavac 51, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 21 06,
www.stancija-kovacici.hr/. Open 12.00-23:00; closed
Tue. (90 - 160 kn).
Mošćenička Draga
Johnson
This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish,
seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might ex-
pect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine
cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice.
QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75
78, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.
(75 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­L­6­W
Konoba Zijavica
Right beside the seafront and with a terrace out on the
beach, this is another place that brings out the best in
Kvarner cuisine – traditional food served with contempo-
rary finesse, with priority given to what’s fresh and season-
al. It’s a great place to try local fish, scampi, seashells and
homemade fuži pasta, and there’s usually something fea-
turing traditional boškarin beef on the menu. QŠetalište
25, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 72 43, www.
konoba-zijavica.com/. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 120 kn).
A­P­B­S­W
Opatija
Ariston
The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-
style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and
seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and
international cuisine. With courteous and professional ser-
20 Rijeka In Your Pocket
vice, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it.QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija,
tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, www.villa-ariston.hr. Open
16:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00; closed Tue. (180 - 600 kn).
A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W
Bistro Yacht Club
A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s
little harbour – enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get
there. The owners try to make sure that real home cook-
ing and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well
worth a try. Friendly and comfortable.QZert 1, Opatija,
tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, www.yacht-club-opatija.com.
Open 12:00-24:00. (50 - 150 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­
6­W
Cantinetta Sv. Jakov
A unique restaurant beneath the grand arcades and per-
haps one of the Opatija’s best kept secrets , Cantinetta Sv.
Jakov may be best described as a blend of an italian tratto-
ria and a wine bar. The menu is focused on good and sim-
ple Mediterranean cuisine, such as grilled fresh fish, grilled
steak, fish soup and homemade pasta with a commitment
using local and sustainable foods.QPava Tomašića 1,
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, www.milenijhoteli.hr.
Open 12:00-15:00,18:00-22:00. (140 - 200 kn). A­P­
G­X­T­B­L­W
Gastro World
This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to
night food experience over two floors. Choose from
homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and
champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern of-
fer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty
more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the
pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of
chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85,
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 00, www.milenijhoteli.hr.
Open 07:00-10:00,18:30-21:00. (90 - 1800kn). A­P­
G­X­T­B­J­W
Istranka
A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street
just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers tradi-
tional food from Istria – a region with a very distinct style.
A shady terrace and musical accompaniment – worth
tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-
51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35. Open 11:00-23:00. ​​​​​​​(50
- 140 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
Rab
Restaurant Ana
Situated not too far from Rab’s main bus station, this eatery
seems a firm favourite of residents of the island, which in
itself speaks volumes. Very spacious, this restaurant would
accommodate a number of groups without any being
overly close to another. Great for families who might be
worried about the young ‘uns getting underfoot, and it’s
far enough away from the main hustle and bustle of the
town. Like many restaurants on the island the menu is in-
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Photo by Višnja Arambašić
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Restaurants
fluenced by what is caught that morning, but certainly the
cuttlefish is well worth having, if you’re partial.QPalit 80,
Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 43 76, www.rab-ana.com. Open
11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 24:00. (50 - 400kn). A­P­T­U­
B­L­6­W
Šanpjer
Terrace only, this small marina venue was possibly the
highlight of a recent weekend break. Generous portions
for what you’re paying (given that island prices tend to be
higher than normal anyway), and there wasn’t a scrap of
food sent back to the kitchen. Staff are exceptionally help-
ful and polite, and service is prompt. This reviewer had
octopus salad and breaded shrimp, and could easily have
had a second plate it was that good. An ideal venue to
break-up an evening out, or to start one, or to end one…
QŠetalište kralja Petra Krešimira 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51)
72 41 83. Open 10:00-23:30. (40 - 160kn). P­T­U­B­
S­J­6­W
Volosko
Konoba Tramerka
Just up the steps from Volosko’s twee harbour, Tramerka
is a very different kettle of fish from the chic seafront res-
taurants, with its secret grotto-like interior and benches
strewn outside in the alley. Seafood rules the menu, and
the owner or waiter will often advise you on what you
should order - based on what came fresh out of the sea
that day. A lot of imagination goes into the starters and
desserts, so come prepared for a three-courser.QDr. A.
Mohorovičića 15, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 17 07, www.
konoba-tramerka.com/en/home/. Open 17:00-23:00;
Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. (50 - 200 kn). A­P­B­
W
Konoba Valle Losca
A traditional inn that gets the thumbs up from the local
gourmet crowd, Valle Losca is one of those places that
has built up a cult reputation by offering seasonal ingredi-
ents and a shrewd selection of rustic recipes – casseroles,
baked meats and fish, and lots of home-made pasta. The
ambience is as cosy as the food, with a cute bare stone in-
terior and a small summer terrace out on this characteristic
Volosko street. Not many tables though so try and reserve.
QUl. Andrije Štangera 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 095 580
37 57. Open 13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. July - August
31 Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (80 - 160 kn).
A­P­B
Plavi podrum
A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le
Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner
was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the
interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.
QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com.
Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 180 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­
S­W
Summer 2019 21
 Local Flavour

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Local flavour,
local dishes...
Keep tradition with cuisine

22 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

 Local Flavour
Food Markets you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and
speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate
Visiting a city's marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel
lamb's lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs.
for how people live and what you'll find on their tables at
mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city
In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic
market is also an architectural treasure. The central market
leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in
(or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo
salads. But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or
docks right in the heart of the city. At the water's edge it's
another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poi-
fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which
soning - unfortunately it does happen.
are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it
abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a
Another spring treat with health-giving properties is aspar-
complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th
agus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin,
century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market)
which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it
is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the
or fry it and serve it with eggs.
sightseeing agenda you really shouldn't miss.
Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady's garden…
Since Rijeka is a coastal city it's no surprise that the fish
Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown
market has always been highly important, and the site of
citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented para-
today's market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded
dise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that
their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been
become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that
here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodi-
make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…
cally been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the popu-
Once you've tried the market, there's no going back. It's an
lation. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It's
addiction, a necessary condition for life.
built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style
after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna
Then there's the flower market by the theatre, the ba-
by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the
rometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side
three market pavilions it's the one which most clearly still
streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for
shows its original structure.
the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to with-
stand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if
However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it's
you're in town in the winter.
usually thronging with people, as Rijeka's citizens do love
their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of
And let's not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries.
silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there's a
With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of
chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for
coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the
photographers.
market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and
shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with
The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are
the morning's gossip. This is where you can feel the beating
interesting for their iron construction which was pretty
heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.
forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age.
In one you'll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is
The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon
for dairy produce.
on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from
the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally
For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is
colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people,
you can still find smallholders selling their own produce.
working people who grow the produce on sale, men and
Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsi-
women. It's the real Rijeka.
cal floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from
a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you'll find
Floating market
hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the la-
Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg
dies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other
market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj
bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made
town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s
food. It's what the locals value most; these are the flavours
edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is
they remember from childhood.
perfectly charming!
Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.
Here it's a free-for-all between traders selling imported
goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items What’s going on?
from their gardens at home. This again is where you find facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce

facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket Summer 2019 23

 Local Flavour
Local Dishes
Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea,
where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian penin-
sula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish
and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young
garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You
can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet
in our Health Tourism section, here we’ll focus on the gas-
tronomy of the region.
Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner re-
gion, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for ex-
cellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two
are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of
the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture
on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.
Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you
can enjoy locally-reared lamb – see our Restaurants sec-
tion. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the
springtime.
This environment is also the reason why the islanders pro-
duce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular
has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a
few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one
is Gligora – you can call into their factory at Kolan in the
central part of the island and taste some of their products.
As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats,
the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One
of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its
vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For
this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been
sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from
illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of
wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong
spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay,
strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more
about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents
at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68).
Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine with-
out mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk
which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of
pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting nee-
dle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleas-
ure, and there are many different sauces to choose from,
though we’d say goulash is probably a classic.
On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta
(Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favour-
ite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often
shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs,
lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased
in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other
celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s
sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.
24 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Most island villages in the summer months have festivals
during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy
music and dancing with the locals. This is a great oppor-
tunity to find out more about the local culture, so we defi-
nitely recommend you check the festivals out.
In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in
the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated
variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great
in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is
also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which
are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly
though there have been recent cases of poisoning where
even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds
of leaves for wild garlic. Just a few such interlopers can be
enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you
whether to risk it.
On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for
delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its
large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo
or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet
chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find
chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chest-
nut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.
Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for
a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or
peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped
with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly
a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the
Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of
the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna
Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.
Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scam-
pi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they
should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a
hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight.
Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria,
which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truf-
fles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If
you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland
Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tus-
cany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful
food and wine on your travels.
Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for
game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least
we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you
turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re
sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious
blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka
right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands
(where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architec-
ture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the
most voracious appetites.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
foodie’s guide
20.07 » The Blueberry Day
One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the know how of this
fruit through educational workshops and in the after-
noon, all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry
strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other
traditional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass
orchestra band will perform. Ravna GoraQwww.tz-
ravnagora.hr.

16.08 » Folk festival Rokova

On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in
or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of
St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of
Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or
visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association.
Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long
will be prepped! LiganjQwww.tz-lovran.hr.

24.08 - 31.08 » Fishermen's Week

Everything is fishy here, and on a positive note! Started
in 1966, a plethora of exhibitions, workshops, concerts,
folk dances, sporting competitions and culinary festivities
where locals prepare traditional fish dishes never cease to
amaze. CrikvenicaQwww.rivieracrikvenica.com.

30.08 - 01.09 » Fig Days

If you’re on Krk around the beginning of September, this
festival gives you the chance to sample and buy all kinds
of food and drink based on the sweet, sweet fig in its
fresh and dried forms.Qwww.tz-krk.hr.

30.08 - 31.08 » Wine Days of the island of

Krk - Vrbnik 2019
Famous for its excellent wines, it is not surprising that nu-
merous wine events will be celebrated on Krk this sum-
mer. One such event is Wine Days that will encompass
some major wine tasting as well as a sales exhibition of
wines and local products. Lectures on wine will also be
held for the hearty, and all this is topped off by a homely
cultural programme.  Q.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

 Coffee & Cakes
Coffee Kosi toranj
Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the
Book Caffe Dnevni boravak
Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene,
For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The
you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/elec-
Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does
tro/funky house breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE‑2,
justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpreten-
Put vele crikve 1. Open 07:00-24:00. N­P ­X ­T ­B­
tious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate
J­W
room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1,
Ciottina 12a. Open 07:00-00:00; Sun 16:00-00:00; Sat
Latino
09:00-00:00. N­P­X­T­E­J­6­W
A nice arty little café with good cakes.QE‑2, Pavlinski
trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun
Cukarikafe
07:00-14:00. N­P­X­T­B­6­W
The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo
are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The inte-
Nad urom
rior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned
Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes ex-
furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is
actly the location of this café bar because it is located
just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at
on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next
sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good cof-
to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance
fee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo…
to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of
What more could you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića
the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee.
4, tel. (+385-) 099 888 59 49. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun
However what also makes this an excellent location is its
10:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00. A­P­
wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts
G­X ­T ­B ­6 ­W
great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.
Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to
Ferrari
keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance
It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square,
is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the
close to the Bonavia.QD‑2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske
evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of
8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. Open 07:00-02:00; closed Sun.
the building.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department
N­P­X­B­J
Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, www.nadurom.com.
Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. N­P ­G ­X ­T ­B­
Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe
J­W
This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection
of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and
Piramida
cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th cen-
A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.QF‑2,
tury by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a
Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51)22 99 26. Open
listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find
07:00-23:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­J­6­W
the city library which stocks all the latest bestsellers and
tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of
Striga
Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.
At the same city square as the Hotel Continental, a most
QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:00-
pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square
23:00. N­G­X­T­B­J­6­W
and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1,
Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. Open 07:00-24:00;
Fiorello Pub
Sat, Sun 08:00-24:00. N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W
A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central.
QD‑2, Korzo 2d, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. Open 07:00-
Vintage bar
24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. N­P­X­
You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located
T­B­J­W
café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning
view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings,
Iskra
a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café
Located in the heart of Rijeka since 1975, this bar provides
is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress – which is
a blend of traditional and modern in its ambient and vari-
in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto
ety of drinks. You’ll enjoy their wide selection of Croatian
the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of
wines and delicious prosciutto. If you’re visiting during Ri-
everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired
jeka’s famous Carnival, this is where you should be.QD‑2,
Nugent Family mausoleum.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb,
Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Open 06:00-
Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095
22:00; Sat 06:00-14:00; Sun 07:30-13:00. July & August
865 66 77. Open 09:00-02:00. B
Open 06:00 - 14:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­6­W

26 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

 Cakes
Cacao
A stand-out patisserie celebrated for the
sheer range and quality of the things
on offer, Cacao is the kind of place that
demands repeat visits if you are to fully
appreciate what they are capable of.
Otherwise it’s a pretty tall order to make
a choice between the delicate mille-
feuilles, the outstanding macaroons, the
delicious cheesecakes and the fantastic
ice cream. With biscuits and hand-made
chocolates on sale too, you’re unlikely
to leave empty-handed. QRiva 14, tel.
(+385-) 091 202 06 30, www.cacao.
hr/. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-
24:00. P­G­B­S­J­W

Choco bar bonbonnière

Kraš
Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two
levelled bar located on Korzo and fill
your tender taste buds with the sweets
on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the
famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can
purchase all their specialties downstairs
or even hop on upstairs where you can
mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst
nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on
chocolate cocktails and more. The in-
terior has a pleasant mix of minimalist
furniture with a touch of art deco.QD‑2,
Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59,
www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00-
23:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. A­P­G­X­
T­B­J­W

Gelateria Corso
Light and delicious cakes - some of the
best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too.
A perfect terrace for a spot of people-
watching on Korzo, and a bright and
cheerful upstairs seating area with a
view of the decorative buildings op-
posite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51)
30 19 45/(+385-) 098 992 59 87. Open
07:00-02:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

Piko
PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread,
pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks.
A pleasant ambience and always fresh
products will make your day in Ri-
jeka more enjoyable.QKorzo 38b, tel.
(+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka.hr.
Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 07:00-13:00;
closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

 Coffee & Cakes
ice cream
Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continua-
tion of the human race in summer. While you can buy
the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear
logo, is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don’t
miss the homemade version in a slastičarnica. The
water and milk here is fine, so there should be noth-
ing to upset your tum.

Opatija Coffee
Café Wagner
Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach
is this traditional and classy kavana – a coffee house
in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-
coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wag-
ner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather.
QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-
51) 20 20 71, www.amadriapark.com/hr. Open
07:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W

Choco bar bonbonnière Kraš

Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš,
Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone
with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking choco-
late they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant –
in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink
you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-and-
coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolate-
plus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate
sweets can be bought either individually or by the box.
QMaršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62,
www.kraschocobar.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­W

Design hotel Astoria

One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this
bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and
airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh
flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for
relaxed cocktails.QUlica maršala Tita 174, tel. (+385-
51) 70 63 50, www.hotel-astoria.hr. Open 07:00-
12:00,15:00-22:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W

Palme
Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this
lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable,
modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat
yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (kraf-
ne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel
Bristol), tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, www.hotel-bristol.
hr. Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­W

28 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Bars
Bar Bar #2
The Bar Bar family is slowly but surely expanding. Yes in-
deed, venue number two is dubbed as Bar Bar#2 and is the
new kid on the block with a full pedal to the metal pub-
like feel to it. Even though it is the youngest member, Bar
Bar#2 combines industry with some great beverage and
snacks combinations​. It typically defines the golden age
of Rijeka production with one room teeming with age old
artefacts allowing for a stroll down memory lane. Look out
for the homemade nibbles at the bar amongst other spe-
cials.QD‑2, Pod Kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/
(+385-) 091 739 31 99, www.bar-bar.eu/. P­X­J­W
Champagne bar Pommery
Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for
coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife.
Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the lo-
cals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The
place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to
be seen.QD‑2, Trg Republike 2a, tel. (+385-) 091 444 16
66. Open 07:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-04:00. N­P­X­
T­B­E­J­6­W
Galaxie bar
Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood,
you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new
sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the up-
per plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens
for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of
Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa
bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open
07:00-24:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W
Hemingway bar
Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the
Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most
cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing
out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s
tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related
memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable
and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at
weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktail-
sipping venue, for several generations now, you can also
get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 32
44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, www.hemingway.hr. Open
08:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
Karolina
Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in
port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored
restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal
and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.
During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s
life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy
well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Nightlife
barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music
chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel.
(+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-
05:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­6­W
Klub Bačva
Another multipurpose place where visitors can enjoy
sipping on coffee, as well as make the most of pleasant
evening socialising with intimate live performances, po-
etry readings, rock concerts and other events. Very cosy
type urban atmosphere!QC/D‑2, Dolac 8, tel. (+385-)
095 553 76 59. Open 07:00-24:00; Thu 07:00-01:00; Fri
07:00-02:00; Sat 07:00-03:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­
T­B­J­W
Mirage
The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new
sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes
the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively.
A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are
occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink
and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, Is‑
tarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99. Open 07:00-02:00.
N­P­X­T­B­6­W
Pepe Rosso
In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has
a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions,
live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, span-
ning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid,
really!QD‑3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/(+385-
) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30-02:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-03:00;
closed Sun. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­W
Pogon Trsat
On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart
of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both
a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks
before hitting town. There’s a large terrace and relaxed
soundtrack, featuring house and r’n’b and Croatian music
on Fridays.QR‑2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports
Centre, tel. (+385-) 099 607 20 85. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri,
Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-00:00. P­G­X­B­L
Rakhia bar
This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of
Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the
Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmo-
sphere done out with little details this is the place where
you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower
and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy
carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel.
(+385-) 095 511 43 36. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-
03:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­B­J­6­W
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2019 29
 Nightlife
Celtic Cafe Bard Archives
Sabrage
Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is
unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz
sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent
wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the
goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent
indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75
37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77, www.sabragebar.com. Open
07:00-02:00. N­P­X­T­B­E­J­W
Teta Roža
Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a
marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a
more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the
walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent
jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk north-
east of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central,
but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Du-
vel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the
bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the
hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 099 480 60 30.
Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. N­P­X­T­
B­6­W
The Beertija
Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local
and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match
the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning!
It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire
30 Rijeka In Your Pocket
pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautzeka 12, tel.
(+385-51) 45 21 83. Open 09:00-00:01; Thu 09:00-02:00;
Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. A­P­X­T­B­E­6­W
Three Monkeys
One of the newest slick bars in town that combines vin-
tage designs with colour schemes. Known for quality
coffee and crafty cocktails, the bar is open for early morn-
ing coffee with light jazz and bossa notes playing in the
background, whilst as the sun sets, cocktails, gin and other
beverages take over the menu. All in all, this is place to
chill from morning till night!  QFiumara 5, tel. (+385-)
099 755 27 32, www.facebook.com/threemonkeysri.
Open 06:00-24:00; Fri 06:00-02:00; Sat 07:00-02:00;
Sun 14:00-23:00.
Clubs
Boa
This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with
feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern
in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for
sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening
it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up
crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian
music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2,
Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open
06:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00; Sun 06:00-00:00.
N­P­X­B­E­J­W
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
Teuta drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights
The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with a great out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46
choice of good music, characterized by its friendly atmo- 73. Open 06:00-01:00; Thu, Fri 06:00-04:00; Sat 18:00-
sphere where people know how to relax. Thursdays, Fridays 04:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­T­B­J­W
and Saturdays expect performances by the best the DJs, VJs,
singers and musicians with a modern urban twist. It is split
into two floors which with multimedia support are merged
into one.QE‑2, Užarska 1. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-
04:00; closed Sun. Closed June - September. N­G­B

Tunel
Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tun-
nel, this is a heaven for all fans of alternative culture - laid
back jazz, blues, funk, soul, rock and electronic music,
you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here.
The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions and
concerts.”QE‑1, Školjić 12. Open Mon 09:00-02:00; Tue,
Wed 09:00-24:00; Thu 09:00-02:00; Fri 09:00-03:00; Sat
19:00-03:00; closed Sun. A­N­P­X­T­B­6

Pubs
Celtic Caffe Bard
A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a
cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and
not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connois-
seurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest
Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in
bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz,
sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly
older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good
music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40
drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open
08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. N­P­X­
T­B­J­6­W

Phanas Pub
A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from
rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoul-
ders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously ex-
Three Monkeys Archives
ecuted traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with
a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana
Zajca 9, tel. (+385-) 091 926 48 01. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri,
Sat 07:00-06:00. A­P­X­T­E­J­W

Public Pub
The perfect place to add to a pub crawl is the ‘Public Pub’,
located in the heart of town with the terrace facing the
popular Korzo Street and St. Barbara’s Square. The café
and pub, dubbed all in one, is prrrrfect to start off your day
with coffee and then end it with a refreshing beer, wine,
cocktails or beverage of choice. Fridays and Saturdays is
having live DJs playing festive tunes for all generations.
QTrg svete Barbare 5a, tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open
07:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.
N­P­T­E­J­6­W

River pub
With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great
deck out back and music that inspires conversation and in-
Three Monkeys Archives
ebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a
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Wine bars
kod Zajca wine&coffee bar
Seeking local produce? See the very best of
Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live
music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and pre-
sentations of Croatian wine makers on Thurs-
days, this is the perfect place for somewhat
of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel.
(+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri,
Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. N­P­
X­T­B­E­J­W

Vrbnik Tourist Board Archives


Essential Rijeka
St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida)
Although there has been a church dedicated to the pa-
tron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages
the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by
the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Eu-
ropeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotun-
da, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements
of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary
inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently
to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls
in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained
glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic
crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was
playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at
losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement
of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The
ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr
Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was
cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a sepa-
rate belltower which once gave access from the gallery
to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are
no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball
embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to
the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was
sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls
from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in
1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1,
Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:00-18:00;
Sat 06:00-12:00; Sun 06:00-12:00,14:00-18:00; closed
Mon.
The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski
toranj, Gradska vrata)
Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine
yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once
a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement
Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – ev-
erything that stands between here and the present-day
waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on
this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled
city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with
many other important buildings. Money for a new one
was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873,
a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at
the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very
same which still shows the correct time today.QD‑2, Ko‑
rzo.
The Corso (Korzo)
The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by
elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed
with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather
by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a prom-
enade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of
the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an
espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2,
Korzo.
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Sightseeing
The Croatian National Theatre Ivan
pl. Zajc, Rijeka (Hrvatsko narodno
kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc)
This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe
meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka
was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese
architectural studio specialising in theatre design, respon-
sible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the
colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy
Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the
first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. In the newly-landscaped
park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s
composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contribu-
tors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If
you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be
aware that sightseeing tours in English are available Thurs-
days (June 13 and 20, July 4 and 11) at 09:30, costing 35kn
per person.QE‑3, Verdijeva bb, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14,
www.hnk-zajc.hr.
Trsat
Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keep-
ing watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which
has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is
the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since
prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of
the city.
You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of
a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress
and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church,
a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many con-
certs are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming
huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a cof-
fee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St
Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a
place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes
that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders
were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where
they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and
rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the
Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire develop-
ment of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The
church contains a great number of renowned religious
paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to
be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Lo-
retto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church
and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had
many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influen-
tial families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar
and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations
were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a com-
mander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually
made his home here and established a museum. Sadly,
the museum no longer exists. There are attractive under-
ground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells)
which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently
a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Gre-
cian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery
space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural
Summer 2019 33
 Sightseeing
beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner
Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains
that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.
You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Cap-
tain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before
you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their
knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling
parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the
centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1.
Museums
City Museum of Rijeka (Muzej grada
Rijeke)
Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the
gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and
personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents
lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.
QD‑1, Trg Riccarda Zanelle 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92,
www.muzej-rijeka.hr. 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Admission 15/10kn.
Peek&Poke - Childhood Museum
(Peek&Poke - Muzej djetinjstva)
Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood
games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll
down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from
all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our
world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s
scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385-
) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrange‑
ment. Admission 30kn. Unified ticket costing 40kn
includes entry to Childhood Museum and Computer
Museum.
Peek&Poke - Computer Museum
Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this oppor-
tunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?
Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus
Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators,
games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.
In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, semi-
nars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if
you need to access the net, there are 2 computers avail-
able to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a
chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former
Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour),
or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is
more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-)
091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission
30kn. Unified ticket costing 40kn includes entry to
Childhood Museum and Computer Museum.
State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv
Rijeka)
Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents
of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surround-
ing County and the town of Senj. The oldest document
34 Rijeka In Your Pocket
dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibi-
tion room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot
about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through
time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola
Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD‑1,
Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33
64 47, www.riarhiv.hr. During exhibitions open 08:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The Maritime and History Museum of the
Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni
muzej Hrvatskog primorja)
One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and
Historical Museum which is located in one of the most
beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former
palace, it was originally designed and built as the resi-
dence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a
Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents
artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Pri-
morsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting
with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to
the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s
collection contains the Archaeological Department with
pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic
collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of
transport, the History of Maritime Department consists
of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment,
nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as
material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical
Departments.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35
78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:00-
20:00; Mon 09:00-16:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. Admission
20/15kn.
The Modern and Contemporary Art
Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene
umjetnosti/MMSU)
Rijeka’s MMSU has taken on a whole new lease of life since
moving into new premises in the Benčić complex, a group
of former industrial buildings near the railway station.
The complex is currently being transformed into a new
art-and-culture cluster and the MMSU is the first major
institution to move in, occupying former factory halls that
retain their elegant iron pillars and cool grey floors. The
space is ideally suited to the museum’s busy programme
of exhibitions, which will involve rotating selections of the
MMSU’s huge permanent collection as well as individual
and group shows by leading international artists. Whether
you like the displays or not, it’s the perfect place to con-
template Rijeka’s ongoing transformation into a post-in-
dustrial city of art and leisure.  QA‑1, Krešimirova 26c, tel.
(+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 11:00-20:00;
closed Mon. 10kn.
What’s going on?
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rijeka.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
The Natural History Museum (Prirodo-
slovni muzej)
Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adri-
atic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with
its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to
know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in
conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be ei-
ther delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles,
amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened
in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds,
which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north
of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this
sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov pro‑
laz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com.
Open 09:00-20:00. Admission 10/5kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna

knjižnica Rijeka)
The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zam-
mattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into
the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library
in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhi-
bition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading col-
lections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas
of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet,
including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most
important document of this kind in existence. Together
with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings,
this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something
very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Write to glagolji-
ca@svkri.hr  to make an appointment to view – it’s well
worth it.  QC‑2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, www.
svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 14:00 with prior ar‑
rangement. Admission 20 kn.

Galleries
Bruketa 2
The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little
Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted
young and established artists and is situated over the
Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF‑2, Strossmayerova
1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open
by prior arrangement.

Kortil
An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.
QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Mali salon
A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Con-
temporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD‑2, Korzo 24, tel.
(+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 12:00-21:00;
Sat, Sun 14:00-21:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

Principij Gallery
Exhibition space of Rijeka Photo Club.QE‑2, Pod voltun 4,
tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open
10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
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National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc Summer 2019 35
 Sightseeing
Rijeka Tourist Board Archives
Churches
The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of
Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurd-
ske)
The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the
Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an
upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Build-
ing started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four
years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for
the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cun-
ning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was
heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of
course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-
earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its
upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous
“saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the
church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s
an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing
at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over
the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and
19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucin‑
ske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 09:00 - 12:00,
16:00 - 20:00.
The Church of St Jerome and Dominican
Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Domini-
kanski samostan)
A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.
It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery com-
plex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts
of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the
House of Walsee – members of both dynasties are buried
here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s
was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as
many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in
the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s
36 Rijeka In Your Pocket
is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of
Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a
Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00,
09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel.
(+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.
The Church of St Mary of the Assump-
tion and The leaning tower (Crkva
Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi
toranj)
Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby
remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption
dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then under-
gone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting
in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that
this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the
main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The
Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the
leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s
interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including
the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want
to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00,
19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the
year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00,
18:00.QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21
41 77. Open 07:30 - 12:30.
The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv.
Sebastijana)
Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church
was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to
St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The
church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This
part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman
walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated.
Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Se-
bastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and en-
emies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a
patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe!
The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka
Marulića bb.
The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
(Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole)
Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox commu-
nity, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that
the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for
a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!
That’s where you can build your church!” The industri-
ous Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock
Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone
had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva
and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a
grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The
church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvo-
dina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00,
Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2,
tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00-13:00.
Fountains
Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains.
Before the city had a water system, they made use of the
many springs which have their source in the very centre.
Some of these being underground, public washing facili-
ties and drinking fountains were built for practical purpos-
es, providing places where the inhabitants would gather
and catch up with the daily gossip. Many of the original
ones are long gone since the building of the modern water
system, but in more recent years decorative fountains have
been built that give the city a pleasant character. They’re all
places where you can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in
the summer heat.
The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana
Jadranski trg)
Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form
a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the be-
ginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the
skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising com-
bination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged
around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and
soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg.
The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawa-
saki)
Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has
as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird,
presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city
of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.
Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a fa-
vourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was
particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to
celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous oc-
casions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg.
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Sightseeing
The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo)
Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a sil-
ver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small
“source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many
natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below
Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo.
The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolo-
drob)
A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s indus-
trial heritage and water: together fundamental elements
of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their
original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first
paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece,
and water streams in intriguing formations over the
toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work
become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper
mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its
many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniver-
sary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.
The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna
slavina)
Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drink-
ing fountain with its constant flow of water was built in
1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing
drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since
1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova.
Historical areas
Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija
iz 17-18. st.)
Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Ri-
jeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community
was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s
pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a
little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if
you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see
the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were
once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a
few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can
see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when
this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Ro-
man Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery
with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and his-
toricist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant
walk – if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you
the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential ar-
eas in the hills north of the centre.QE‑1, Kalvarija.
Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium
(Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.)
Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section
of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some
thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit
and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of
time, for this was once part of a Roman military command
centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain
of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2,
Trg Ivana Koblera.
Summer 2019 37
 Sightseeing
The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv.
Križ)
Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja
Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences
originating from prehistoric times which guarded the
coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from in-
land Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to
the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).
Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this
spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to stu-
dents and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were
on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young
chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay
slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of
Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit,
enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and
keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ.
The Old City (Stari grad)
The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The build-
ings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the
seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo
are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which
lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly
enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the
north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the
west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise
the town, providing it with transport and water systems,
much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still
see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of
town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the
area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Ju-
dicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of
Trg Ivana Koblera.
Industrial Rijeka
It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around
you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and
progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine his-
toric architecture.
The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira)
Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina
is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people
and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper,
exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one
of the most successful industries of both the former Yu-
goslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded
by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his
witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of en-
trepreneurs from France and England who installed the
first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the
factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette
paper in Europe, and had won many awards – see the
medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated
by war and economic and political changes, and the com-
pany went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since
the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development
and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to
preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre:
38 Rijeka In Your Pocket
there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvor-
nica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.
The Shipyards (Brodogradilište)
Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see
signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest
shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugosla-
via. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka
during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuild-
ing going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugo-
slav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half
its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars
to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting
stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.
Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace,
they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like
construction and waste management. An even older yard,
Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the
war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, con-
versions and offshore work like laying pipelines and build-
ing oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of
the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.
The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera)
A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754,
by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied
the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest),
and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was
one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial
development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in
1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine
palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chi-
nese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside
is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly
sensual murals of bathing goddesses. It is currently under-
going construction works, the goal being its conversion
into a new exhibit of Rijeka’s City Museum.QA‑1, Ulica
Petra Krešimira IV.
The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda)
Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?
Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weap-
ons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.
One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval of-
ficer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at
long range. He came up with the idea of what he called
“the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical back-
ground nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He
heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who
was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in
Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with
the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first
tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western
Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month,
and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology
engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s,
but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the fac-
tory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial
heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and
create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western
outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the impos-
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

I always book GoOpti
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+4420 3695 2200
ing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach
station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of
Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the
torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s daughter.
QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19.
Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor)
The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station
is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architec-
tural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in
trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Lju-
bljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in
the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest
architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is
a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hun-
gary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka
were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14
stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which sur-
vive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.
Landmarks
Archeological Park – the Tarsatica
Principia
The newly renovated Archaeological Park has opened in
2014 in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an
amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city
of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia,
the 3rd century Roman military command that used to
be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of
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Sightseeing
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its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard,
and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD‑2, Ul.Stara
vrata 3.
City Market (Velika tržnica)
Together with the nearby National Theatre and its park, the
Modello Palace and numerous residential, commercial and
industrial buildings, the City Market forms a super urban
architectural complex. At its core are beautiful art nouveau
market halls, especially the lively fish market, which is in an
imposing Liberty style building with charming mouldings
by famous Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso of the poor
crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate.
Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the
feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high with fresh
local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their
customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of
the world. The market is a good place for speciality delica-
tessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the
sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The
pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food
takeaways and inexpensive konobas for a quick and au-
thentic lunch – see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few
pleasant cafés with leafy terraces.QE‑3, Verdieva.
Hurricane! (Parobrod Uragan)
Uragan is the name of the big old ship that looms at Molo
Longo, the long breakwater that runs parallel to Rijeka’s
famous Riva. She started life in 19th century Hamburg,
where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she
Summer 2019 39
 Sightseeing
was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yu-
goslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook
technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the de-
velopment of the Port of Rijeka, as well as ‘acting’ in films
including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds
of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in Rijeka har-
bour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts
sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Ura-
gan’s repair in 2005, and she was given a permanent berth
here in Molo Longo in 2014.   Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s
Islamic Center Rijeka
The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet,
the western part of the city. This is a building of high in-
ternational artistic relevance designed by the famous late
sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects
Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hill-
side, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain
and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The com-
plex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and
has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The
facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a con-
gress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar,
a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an under-
ground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate
up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high.
Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architec-
ture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, www.
medzlis-rijeka.org.
Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers
(Most hrvatskih branitelja)
A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the
soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and
glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around
it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby,
and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As
with many examples of modern architecture, there was an
almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its open-
ing, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently
won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As
you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice
the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and
independent future. As you cross back into the city, make
sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva.
Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka)
The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian
monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were
built connecting the port with the large cities of the
Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late
19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of
goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the
top ten European seaports by volume.
War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First
World War stopped the international transport of goods
by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port
of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to
the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs,
Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.
During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour
40 Rijeka In Your Pocket
was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focus-
ing on the construction of facilities for the transport of
specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and
containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million
tons of cargo per year.
War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the
northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the con-
flict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry
to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of
other important industry, went into steep decline. How-
ever, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has
been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of
shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s loca-
tion is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a
long-standing transport connection with the countries
of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an
ideal point for the import and export of goods between
the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie
around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern
Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more. Most re-
cent addition, in terms of shipping, is the new container
terminal, finished only this year. Costing just over €110m,
this terminal is expected to provide the city with much
added business. QD‑3.
Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi)
“Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by
chance – many waters sourcing in those mountains you
see there wind their way through the city, underground
and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.
Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old
neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one
time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and
Pećine.
The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers
since before Roman times. When the port was developed,
the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course aban-
doned – you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” –
“Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta,
where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café.
The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the
Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue
of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the
railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge
built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia
in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history
may also be interested to see the plaque commemorat-
ing Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.
QF‑1/2, E‑2.
Sušak - Pećine
The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was
once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croa-
tian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there
were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in
the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought
wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and pal-
aces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of
the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka
and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the
jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition
from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as
the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slo-
venes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and
you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on
the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro-
Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa,
where members of the political and literary families Ružić
and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).
Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many
of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-
Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.
In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monu-
ment, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of
her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You
can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English trans-
lation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural
monument.QQ/S‑3/4.
The Milkmaid (Mljekarica)
By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an el-
derly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s
carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids
from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was
where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their
daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was car-
ried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still
famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on
the menu.QE‑2, Užarska.
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Sightseeing
Rijeka view from Trsat, shutterstock.com
The Rijeka Astronomical Center (As-
tronomski Centar Rijeka)
Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy - look
no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical
center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the
hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy
and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It
is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.
Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was es-
tablished. A planetarium hall was installed into an already
existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka
now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other
additional contents for learning more about astronomy.
During summer, every Wednesday at 20:00 there is a spe-
cial film screening for foreign tourists in English language
and stargazing with the telescope in observatory every
Saturday at 22:00 (depends on the weather). For detailed
opening times and schedule of planetarium shows and
observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00 or check sched-
ule here. More information and photos can be found on
Facebook Fan Page Astronomski centar Rijeka, so foreign
and domestic tourists can send messages, comment and
like as well.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www.
astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Admission 20/10 kn.
The Rijeka Tunnel
Military turmoil leading up to World War II saw the con-
struction of fortifications, bunkers and tunnels in Rijeka.
Now, the first military tunnel has opened for visitors
with the entrance next to the Cathedral of St. Vitus and it
stretches below the Old Town to the Dolac Primary School.
Summer 2019 41
 Sightseeing
The 330-m long tunnel still has some original markings
and was even used in the Homeland War as a shelter.QO‑
pen 10:00-20:00.
The Roman Gate (Stara vrata)
Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone
archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into
the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built
onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist de-
partment store, with a Hapsburg era town house added
on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come
to Roman excavations where you can see decorative col-
umns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića.
The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov)
On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a
statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike
pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer
infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still
much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died
in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg.
Palaces
The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova
palača)
The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian
crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka af-
ter a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which
meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The
Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the
leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named
Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and
the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (com-
pleted in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a
hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid
palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and
History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the
splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.
QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1.
The Jadran Building (Palača Adria)
This grand old dame occupying prime position on the
waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija – yup, those
ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure
was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hun-
garian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking
on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.
While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did en-
gage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio,
exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.
The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary – look out for the
figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and
pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can
see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and
India.QC‑2, Riva.
The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača)
Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which
sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by
Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too – raised above
42 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Rijeka Tourist Board Archives
ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases,
its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the
most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, de-
signed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend,
Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls
in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which
guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only frag-
ments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma.
The Modello Building (Palača Modello)
A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian ar-
chitects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as
part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the
style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance be-
lies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also
richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses
the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian
community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca.
The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija)
Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustin-
ian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in
1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings
for use by the local government of the growing city. The
adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the in-
fluential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll
see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise
the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the
Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and
white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and clas-
sical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal
Ri and a multitude of other offices.
Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka
building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Ri-
jeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was
drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually
contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National
Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In be-
tween, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which
has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his
hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maxi-
millian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during
a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city
came under heavy fire.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.
The Palazzo (Palača komuna)
This relatively modest, baroque building served as the
Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded
the city authorities move to the Municipium. The compos-
er Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named,
was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which
once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named
after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza -
the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life,
and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in com-
memoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill
(see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger
in the shade.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.
Parks
The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Peri-
voj Gospe Trsatske)
Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these ter-
raced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spa-
cious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedi-
tion or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.QV‑2,
Trsat.
The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka)
One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it
was created in 1874 to make a break between the city cen-
tre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the
approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.
The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was
once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since
several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely
stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool
place to rest near the train station.
The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole
Hosta)
Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century An-
droch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace
and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as
Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Jo-
seph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all
over the world for these gardens, which he established at
the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on
several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains
managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s
rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now
used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named af-
ter the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very
same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1,
Žrtava fašizma.
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Sightseeing
The Theatre Park (Kazališni park)
Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony
with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city
market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875,
and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought
back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of va-
rieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Con-
certo, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca.
The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira
Nazora)
This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and
it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with
its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring
2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers
and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then be-
came the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1,
Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.
Religious collections
The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral
(Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida)
The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of
art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the
sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; sil-
ver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized
possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made
in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reli-
quaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made
by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest
item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the
old church of St Vitus stood here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel.
(+385-) 091 918 78 52. Open by prior arrangement. Ad‑
mission free.
The Permanent Collection of Votive
Offerings (Stalna izložba zavjetnih
darova)
Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects
offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers
have been answered.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel.
(+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com.hr/. Open
06:30-20:00. Admission free.
The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of
Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe
Trsatske)
The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and
one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croa-
tia – no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art
fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much
to build the church and fortifications here, were generous
donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble
families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial
dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Bar-
bara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Moth-
er of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful
collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel.
(+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com. Open 08:00-
11:30,14:00-17:00. Admission free.
Summer 2019 43
 Croatian Cultural Dictionary
Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adven-
ture. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder
of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything
is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the
words have their exact equivalents in both languages.
Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few
rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.
The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the
web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed
only to the advanced students.
Croatian business
conversations
This subheading may sound misleading because the con-
cepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read
on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian
attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the
Taoistwu weiprinciple (doing without doing).
1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literally-
means ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the
subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows
who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s
say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one
ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging –
the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’
[one ought to,indeed]. He registers the need for the task
but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet.
A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of
other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For ex-
ample, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement
are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale,
knowing well you won’t get to itany time soon.
2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we
do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you
would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this reminds
them that every problem has a solution, and that it usu-
ally shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this
context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can
find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your
work depends on the promptness of others. Those others
that just took a beer break to blow out the steam. Now, this
laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If
you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wis-
dom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo. So chill,
everything will eventually get done, with or without you
stressing.
3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian para-
doxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad
translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured
for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It
is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political
or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid
44 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
job where minimum work effort is required and the assess-
ment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this
is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the
right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb
will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around
them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to an-
other peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).
4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which
means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is
more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popu-
lar throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality
to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to
moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solu-
tions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the
bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you
about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropri-
ate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their
side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The
camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest
and can even result in professional benefits.
Croatian leisure talk
Croatian people value their free time and they love shar-
ing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much
lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are
lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good life-
work balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.
5 | Tko to može platit meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is
usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraor-
dinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine
during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians
believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought,
which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘eve-
rything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the
middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this
is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful
outlook on life.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
 Croatian Cultural Dictionary
6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’. Of
course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual.
But everything else that happens during and around it is
what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Cro-
atians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam
they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can
also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts
are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Re-
member the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it
together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for
expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into
the Croatian coffee culture, go to https://travelhonestly.
com/croatian-cafe-culture.
7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While cof-
fee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t
seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expres-
sion of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with
our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing
nothing. If you think this is an easy undertaking, try du-
diti for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck
away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world
from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This
is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.
8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing
around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/slowly’
but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural
act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’
and to be/appear busy is a sign of success. When Croatians
do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effec-
tively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound far-
fetched, but pomalo is the Croatian time-travel machine.
Croatian weather talk
Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Brit-
ain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a
deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with stran-
gers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really
bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’
weather is not simply a meteorological matter because na-
tions perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say
that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandi-
navia.
9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of
siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and
sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.
This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the
heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once
again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an
afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified. Culturally,
however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for
laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a
state of mind similar to the polako attitude. And because
it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to
learn how to ease into it yourself.
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10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western
wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While
jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of
negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a
mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.
During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina
are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will
issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel
disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain. If you
ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is
a product of bad južina.
11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the
world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croa-
tian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses
are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian
children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause
a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu.
Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows
on opposite sides open. And when they send you off
on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to
get caught in propuh. Croatian people don’t really have
much choice but to stay away from the horribly danger-
ous draught.
Most important
‘empty’ talk
We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of
information – from basic facts to complex emotions. But
languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s
call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated
by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners.
Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning
of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk.
So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll
sound as native as it gets.
12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest
fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For exam-
ple, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also
be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just
said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.
13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people
don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian
exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught
by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be
its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during
one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone
chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of
you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, re-
peat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing
sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajme-
ing back and forth.
By Andrea Pisac
Summer 2019 45
 Kvarner
Islands
Cres
The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at
home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast
with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.
Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the
ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural envi-
ronment and its towns and villages just as they should be.
Cres town is today's capital of the island. The gothic archi-
tecture you'll find here owes much to the island's long con-
nection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Re-
public for much of the period between the year 1000 and
1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one
of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385
51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and pre-
historic and Roman artefacts. The town's main square has
been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely
relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shin-
gle beaches, and although it's largely unspoilt, retains an
unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun
brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection
of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside
away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that's an
absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun
Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic in-
scription in Croatia. There's a simple campsite and a couple
of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to

negotiate if you don't have your own wheels), the town of
Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This
old village's setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of
the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres be-
low you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle
beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back
up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most de-
termined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting
exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road

bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by
beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It's fenced off since
it ensures the islanders' supply of drinking water. Finally,
Osor town, which once used to be the administrative cen-
tre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the
sunlight and its reputation as an artists' colony. You'll see
modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if
you're lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music
Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now
houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

Cres Tourist Board

QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, www.tzg-cres.
hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. City of Krk Tourist Board Archives

46 Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com


Krk
So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to
the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian
island but also has one of the most developed tourist in-
dustries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery
runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are
located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important ter-
minal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliff-
side centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer
settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible
to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how
much the island has to offer.
Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island
was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful
dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of
the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on
your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the
5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the
island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others
with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.
The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril
and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscrip-
tions of great historical significance have been unearthed,
or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic
with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the
shape of mushrooms and cherries!
Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a
lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to
see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared
for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach
just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.
Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on
a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th cen-
tury. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St
Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly
the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover-
leaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum
includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo
Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the
cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from
here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive
12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan
constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural
happenings.
Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the is-
let of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the
Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent
ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural
history section with some stuffed animals with too many
appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run
retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s
well worth taking a taxi boat over.
Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swim-
ming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east,
and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km
sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over
the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if
you don’t mind the crowds at high season.
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Kvarner
For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik,
topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny
emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow
streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in
the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where
žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for
generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the over-
whelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned
everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.
Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.
If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a de-
tour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon
give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill,
and when you come to the village you start to think of Tus-
cany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with
its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the
lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by
dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further
north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of
fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close
to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has
formed incredible stalactites.
Krk Tourist Information Center
QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22
02 26, www.tz-krk.hr. Open 08:00-21:00; Thu, Sat, Sun
08:00-15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Septem‑
ber Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Lošinj
You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after
a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and
the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some
fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters
around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed
anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance
of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a pas-
senger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand
and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume
featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s
larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and – like
Susak – carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re look-
ing for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going
on, including a festival of olive oil.
Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali
Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful
fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas
built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported
exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones.
The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an
arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the
world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around
the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thal-
assotherapy facility there today.
Mali Lošinj Tourist Board
QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, www.
visitlosinj.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00.
Summer 2019 47
 Kvarner
Rab
Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they
are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without
reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty
set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to
wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing
that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the
stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.
OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.
One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it
gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it
gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.
Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children.
And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for
the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of
Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re
prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for
a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal
paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone.
Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the jour-
ney to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through
Photo by Mile Franjić
48 Rijeka In Your Pocket
scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you
generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family
hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned
amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is
very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we
highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities
at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant
resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sight-
seeing or other dining opportunities.
Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the
superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow
peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the
Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream
stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.
The summer season is punctuated with historical displays
of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings,
there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and
a couple of clubs.
Rab Tourist Board
QTrg Municipium Arba 8, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64,
www.rab-visit.com. Open 08:00-21:00.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
 Kvarner
Opatija Riviera
Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian
tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Aus-
tro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top
quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on
the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center
is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the
slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of
Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a
dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appeal-
ing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday
villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute
drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked

central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and
maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season des-
tination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes
crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, tradition-
al souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration
of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the
key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount
Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with
the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and
Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they devi-
ate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect get-
away, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural
surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gor-
geous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom
in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in
the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas,
steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-
the-art beauty treatments. With major European centers
such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500
kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-
round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a

multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand
Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top
international meetings for several decades while the Hotel
Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legend-
ary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.
The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other
local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommo-
date business meetings and seminars of all numbers and
sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko
Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija
Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm,
with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside
above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradi-

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 Kvarner
Lovran Tourist Board Archives
tion may help to explain why it boasts some of the best
seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class
eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered
inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.
Ičići
Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part
of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and
mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for
over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croa-
tia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a won-
der for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked
trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports
camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes
to help wind down.
Lovran
Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija
is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts,
with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped
50 Rijeka In Your Pocket
around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and
a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century vil-
las – many of which have been renovated and now serve
as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of
Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent
pebbly beach.
Kastav
There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera
then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The
view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply
breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of
the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of
Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.
Opatija Tourist Information Center
QMaršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10,
www.visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
- 15:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 -
21:00.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Primorje
Crikvenica
Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the
seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architec-
ture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around
the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.
Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of
Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the
coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the for-
mer monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which
gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local
dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A
thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and res-
piratory disorders was established here in 1895. However,
Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expen-
sive – as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined
with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this
a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for
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Kvarner
families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes
an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions
for children (there is a small charge for entry).
Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See
the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use
until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the
gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium
(Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 35/20kn) is
beautifully laid out and really fascinating.
Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather
similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and
plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both
resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.
Crikvenica Tourist Information Center
QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, www.
rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00-20:00. July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Novi Vinodolski
This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol
valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with
fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protect-
ing the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of
Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were
once important centres during feudal times, and all have
incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the
Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.
You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crown-
ing the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the
tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how
it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds
and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell
tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob
-a country-style church with a lovely square where you
can look out over the islands. The town was protected by
a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written -
an important legal document protecting the rights of com-
moners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script
and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could
do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people
compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spir-
ited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good
laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival
is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like
commercialised resorts.
Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information
Center
QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, www.
tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 -
19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2019 51
 National Park North Velebit Archives

Weekend Getaways
Explore Surroundings and escape
the crowds

Brseč
A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlook-
ing the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings
date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications
and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč
there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Su-
sak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount
Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.
Museum of Apoxyomenos
The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists pri-
marily because of its majestic bays and lush green veg-
etation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the
Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is
home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young
athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in
the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved
and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value
presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The
Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a
well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It por-
trays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or
exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when
he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr.
apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos.
The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyo-
menos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes
and transition zones shaped by time and space, and ac-
companied by audio background. The final room is all
white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter,
the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of
various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use
of mirrors. This year the museum earned a Special Com-
mendation in the European Museum of the Year Awards
(EMYA). EMYA is dedicated to promoting excellence in
innovation and public quality in museum practice, en-
couraging networking and the exchange of ideas and sus-
tainable best practices within the sector.QRiva lošinjskih
kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www.
muzejapoksiomena.hr. June 15 - September 15 Open
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 115/40 kn. J
Nature Park Mount Učka
The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways
to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature
park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The
park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the
best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf
with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the
view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range.
Qwww.pp-ucka.hr.
Risnjak National Park
Glowering above the city of Rijeka, in the densely forested
Gorski Kotar region, are the primeval forests, mountain
meadows and karst formed peaks of Risnjak National Park.
This range of mountains, from which can be viewed the
Julian Alps and the Adriatic is by far the wildest and most
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Weekend Getaways
untouched in the country – mostly thanks to the some-
what inhospitable climate; it has an average temperature
of 12.60 in July. The park is a haven for deer, bears, wildcats
and lynx (ris) – from which the park takes its name. Wolves
and wild boar also put in an occasional appearance.
The Information office for the park is in Crni Lug, a small
village that perches at 724m above sea-level (no mean feat
with the sea around 25km away) and 12km from Delnice
– the main regional town. From the villages of Razloge
or Kupari, small winding paths can be followed up to the
source of the Kupa river. From the jagged karst the water
wells up into a lake and then tumbles downwards through
the ‘valley of the butterflies’. QBijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug,
www.np-risnjak.hr.
Thalassotherapia Opatija
Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the
Thalassotherapia Medical Center has the complete package
to suit almost all of your health needs. As their offer contin-
ues to expand, the center now includes the application of
contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the
highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or allevi-
ate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you
get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.QMaršala Tita 188/1,
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, www.thalassotherapia-
opatija.com. Polyclinic Open 08:00 - 15:00; closed Sun,
Sat. Wellness Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
The islet of Košljun
The search for tranquillity stops right here at the islet of
Košljun, located 750 meters from Punat at the Krk island.
The miniature island takes about 1- 2 hours to see and is
best known for the Franciscan monastery which thrives till
this day. A Benedictine abbey was built there in the 11th
century and was then extended and turned into a mon-
astery in the 15th century. The Benedictines presented
Košljun under the motto: ‘Pray and work’ which is visible
on the front door of the monastery, while the Franciscan’s
saluted with ‘Peace and Good’ on the way out – written, of
course, in the ancient Croatian ‘Glagolitic script!’
Franciscan monks still live and reside there and the islet
has a museum with an ethnographic collection contain-
ing numerous items produced by Krk fishermen and farm-
ers, as well as local folk costumes. The library has around
30,000 books which includes some world rarities. Getting
to the island is only via organized boat tours and once
there, take out your treasure maps and begin the search
for the six chapels around the island…
The Memorial Centre Lipa Remembers
(Memorijalni centar Lipa pamti)
In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’
opened its doors to the public for the very first time. Lipa,
is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras
which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memo-
rial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place
on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost
269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children.
Summer 2018 53
 Weekend Getaways
Thalassotherapija Opatija Archives
The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the
Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out
partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied
by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most
residential and commercial buildings. By the end of World
War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to
return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and
painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a
huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers with
its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War
II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never
forgetting the past. The Centre also signifies the cultural
and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehis-
tory to the present day. An exhibition on memorial tour-
ism, On the Roads of Revolution, can be seen on display
until August 30th.QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22
39, www.lipapamti.ppmhp.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun
10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Tue. (10/5 kn).
The Northern Velebit National Park
Huge, seemingly bare masses of rock full of crevices, im-
penetrable forests, glades large and small, grassy karst
valleys, chasms, sinkholes, ice caves, ponds and limestone
54 Rijeka In Your Pocket
pavements... The Northern Velebit is a
real mosaic made up of the most diverse
habitats which are home to many plant,
animal and fungus species, a natural
wealth which has only just begun to be
discovered. It is exactly this diversity of
karstic forms, plant and animal life and
natural landscapes which was the reason
why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed
a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an
ideal place to visit for anyone who prefers
an active holiday and spending time in
pristine nature with the sense of a primor-
dial wilderness. Biking, hiking, photog-
raphy… the choice is yours. Among the
best-known locations in the National Park
are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens,
the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and
Lubenovac. Normally it is said that people
conquer mountains, but the Velebit is a
mountain range that conquers the hearts
of its visitors.
Zavižan and Alan are areas undergoing
continuous change with open grassy
spaces, thick green forests and huge
limestone boulders, all surrounded by
the peaks offering magnificent views of
the sea and the Lika region. In the Vel-
ebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the
wealth of the Velebit flora, the diversity of
its plant communities. Štirovača is an area
of exceptionally thick forests of spruce
and fir and is home to the only wetland
in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit
grassland, is fascinating for its numerous
ruins of old shepherds’ cottages and dry
stone walls which bear witness to peoples’
lives in the mountains in times past, and are monuments of
this region’s cultural heritage. The Premužić Trail takes you
to the very tips of the Velebit range and is amazing both for
the feat of engineering it represents and for the diversity of
the karst formations it passes through.QKrasno 96, Kras‑
no, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.
Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon,
Skrad
The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological
formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to
the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from
an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn
serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild
mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueber-
ries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or
the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out
of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along
galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and
at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with sta-
lagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni
vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway
(Zagreb direction).Qwww.tz-skrad.hr.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Antiques
Mali neboder
Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small
store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery
offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign
languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take
the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciot‑
tina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, www.antikvarijat-mali-
neboder.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed
Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A
Triton
Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.
QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13
77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, www.tritonantikviteti.com/.
Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A
Art galleries
Laval
Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.
QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33. Open
09:30 - 13:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. A
Mala galerija
In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building,
is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has
been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private
tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed
greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souve-
Mali Neboder Archives
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Shopping
nirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative
pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is list-
ed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place
to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE‑2, Užarska
25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open
08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A
Bookshops
Antikvarijat Ex-Libris
Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva,
offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a
handful of English - language choices.QD‑2, Riva Boduli
3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, www.ri-exlibris.hr. Open
09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A
Ribook
Specialised in online sales.  QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel.
(+385-51) 58 15 55, www.superknjizara.hr. Open 08:00-
20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A
VBZ
A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guide-
books here!QC‑2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 15, www.
vbz.hr. Open 07:30-20:30; Sat 07:30-17:00; closed Sun. A
Verbum
Specialising in religious themes.QE‑2, Janeza Trdine 1d,
tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, www.verbum.hr. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July 15 - August
15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Summer 2019 55
 Shopping
Delicatessen
Deliiicije
Deliiicije is a wonderland for gourmands where you can find
the most original and unique edible souvenirs such as choc-
olate with lavender, white-wine liqueurs and whole black
truffles.QE‑2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55,
www.deliiicije.com. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. A
Gligora
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51)
31 30 00, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-14:00; Sun
07:00-12:00; Mon 08:00-13:00.
Kraš
Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and
longest-standing firms.QE‑2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 21
43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 07:00-20:00;
closed Sun. A
Kušaonica Frajona
Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try
the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection
of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to
taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when
we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.
Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. A
Piko
A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes
by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee
instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, www.
pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30-:00; Sat 06:00-14:00; Sun
07:00-12:00. A
Pip
Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51)
21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 08:00-
13:00; closed Sun. A
Primorsko-goranska Kašetica
The aim of this mini-exhibition and shop on an Old-Town
corner is to popularize local food and drink products, es-
pecially honey. The kašetica’s primary drawback is that its
opening times are ambiguous, and there’s no guarantee
that it will be open when you happen to come strolling
by. Luckily the same building is shared by the (much more
reliable) Primorska Konoba, a local-themed tavern which
broadly adheres to the same trad-food agenda and is a
great place for a break.QKrojačka 1, tel. (+385-) 099 334
93 39. Open 09:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun.
Vinoteka 1
An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can
pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE‑3,
Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24, www.blato1902.
hr. Open 08:00-14:00; Sun 08:00-13:00. A
56 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Gifts & Souvenirs
Croatia in a Box
A souvenir shop with a difference, Croatia in a Box started
out with the idea of producing really beautiful gift boxes
- decorated with Croatian motifs such as Glagolitic letters,
embroidery symbols, gingerbread hearts – and providing
the items to fill them with. Lining the shelves is a carefully
curated selection of Croatian-designed jewelry, interior-
design items, accessories (check out the bags and purses
by Mura Pehnec) and boutique rakijas and wines. You can
of course buy individual items without bothering with the
box, but the fact that the packaging is part of the concept
certainly makes present-buying a lot more fun.QGrivica
6a, tel. (+385-) 099 344 54 45, www.croatiainabox.
com/hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
A­J
Filatelija
Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.
QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, www.
filatelija-rijeka.hr/. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 -
12:00. Closed Sun. N
Šta da?
The name of this funky little shop that sells original and
unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catch-
phrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of
the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new
meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97. Open
10:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. A
Made in Croatia
Borovo
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics
such as the already popular Startas which exists for more
than 40 years. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas
and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100%
authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel.
(+385-51) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00-20:00;
closed Sun. A
BuRa Design Store
For the cutting edge of Croatian couture this is argu-
ably one of the best addresses in the country, with racks
of unique and edgy clothing reinforced by a fascinating
selection of jewelry and accessories. Standouts include
brooches by Eva Lumezi, luminous glass jewelry by Vit-
rum in Fabula, and the enigmatic, alluring, matt-black
bags and necklaces made from recycled rubber by the
Zagreb-based design team Gooma. Bura means “storm”
in Croatian and anyone interested in contemporary style
will be blown away by this stuff. QMatije Gupca 13b, tel.
(+385-51) 56 49 40. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-13:00;
closed Sun. A­J
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Guliver
High quality accessories from another Croatian manufac-
turer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wal-
lets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their prod-
ucts are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but
valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka Polića Kamova 81A,
tel. (+385-51) 42 20 96, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00-
21:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.
Mari Cro design studio
If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is
intended for those who look for something different and
unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes,
shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support
the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and
stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.
QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02. Open
09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:30; closed Sun. A
Shopping centres &
Malls
Ri Department Store
This department store first opened in 1974 with the inten-
tion of connecting a series of historical buildings on Korzo
and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in the
city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reac-
tion. Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, un-
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Shopping
Šta da? Archives
fortunately isn’t well kept which is obvious to every visitor.
QD‑2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16, www.robnakucari.
hr/trgovine. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. J
Tower Center
This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much
every Croatian and international high-street brand you’ve
heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With
cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multi-
screen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder that Tower Center
has become a major day-out destination for the locals –
especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few places in
town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the
Janka Polić Kamova stop.QS‑3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova
81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, www.tower-center-rijeka.
hr. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.
ZTC Rijeka
This is Rijeka’s latest shopping mall. A couple of kilome-
tres out of the city on the main coast road towards Opatija
and the border with Slovenia. Opened in 2012 it features
all the major shopping names in clothes, sporting goods,
telecommunications, electrical goods, pharmacy, an
exchange office and ATMs, plus two cafes, a restaurant
and a supermarket. Most facilities are open from 09:00 to
21:00. There’s free Wi-Fi, and underground car park with
invalid access. In fact everything you need in one place.
QM‑2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztc-
shopping.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. W
Summer 2019 57
 Arrival & Getting Around
Arriving By boat
An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the
grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their
way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Medi-
terranean feel. You're right in the heart of the city, with the
coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank
right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of
this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger
boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding
islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot
passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect
to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.
Jadroagent
QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, www.
travel.jadroagent.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat.
Jadrolinija
Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj,
Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for
58 Rijeka In Your Pocket
local catamarans, local ferries as well as international fer-
ries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is
possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and
no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21
for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Time-
table in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički
terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr.
Open 08:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00.
Losinia
Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali
Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, www.
losinia.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Wed & Sat 09:00-18:00;
closed Sun.
Rapska plovidba
Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check
the sailing schedule here.QHrvatskih branitelja domov‑
inskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, www.
rapska-plovidba.hr.
BuRa Design Store Archives
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Rijeka 2020 Archives
Arriving By bus
Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni
kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has eve-
rything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long
distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick
and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian desti-
nations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign
destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office:
Open 05:30 - 22:30; tel. 060 88 86 66 (automated service,
press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info.
Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but
during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online
http://www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna and get 5% dis-
count. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on
Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left
luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 56 49 04 the garde-
roba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00.
Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the water-
front? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the
waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station,
or check Arrival & Getting Around for other taxi companies.
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
Arrival & Getting Around
Central Coach Station (Autobusni
kolodvor Rijeka)
QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 66 06 60/(+385-) 060
30 20 10, www.arriva.com.hr/hr-hr/naslovna.
Arriving By car
From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fi-
ume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses
Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road
8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Tra-
jekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.
From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70
via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska
Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61
which drops directly down into Rijeka.
From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from
Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge
at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direc-
tion, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are
headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.
From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway
from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The
A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty
of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.
Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas
and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For
the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Auto-
mobile Club website at www.hak.hr.
Arriving By plane
Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk is-
land serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport,
but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point,
an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toi-
lets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town:
Olivari  buses   take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg
bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for
the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.
Rijeka Airport
Rijeka Airport.QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-
51) 84 20 40/(+385-51) 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr.
Open 08:00-18:00.
Arriving By train
Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.
Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inex-
pensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website
has a good English page featuring ticket prices and con-
nections for domestic and international routes.
Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket
office including the international (međunarodni) and
domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21
13 04. There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau
where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with
a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets on-
line on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP
tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en
Summer 2019 59
 Arrival & Getting Around
route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine
outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bu-
reau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left
luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day.
Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.
Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in
front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or
32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes
you to Opatija.
Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051-
if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting
Around for other cab companies).
Central Train Station (Željeznički
kolodvor Rijeka)
QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060
33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 13 04, www.hzpp.hr.
Car rental
Dollar & Thrifty
QC‑2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46
92 32, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-
12:00. A
Express rent
QD‑3, Riva boduli 7/d, tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42/(+385-)
098 910 76 96, www.expressrentcroatia.com. Open
08:00-20:00. A
Hertz
QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-)
091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A
OTS
QN‑2, Franje Čandeka 23, tel. (+385-51) 21 51 60/
(+385-) 099 352 06 46, www.rentacar-rijeka.com/.
Open 07:30-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. A
Harbourmasters office
Lučka kapetanija
QD‑3, Senjsko pristanište 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 40 13,
www.mmpi.hr. Open 07:00-15:00.
Parking
Street parking/SMS Parking
Different zones have different max waiting times – check
carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are 4 - 10 kunas per hour.
Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa
coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.
Public transport
Autotrolej
The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s cen-
tral bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They
connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat
and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and
Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets
in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two
trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets
60 Rijeka In Your Pocket
bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip
on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15
11 51.QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51,
www.autotrolej.hr.
Taxi
Rijeka  has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.
There are taxi ranks outside the main train station and the
coach station (also handy for the ferry).  Prices vary, but
they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as
20 -  30kn  for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereaf-
ter you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage.
Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.
Auto taxi Rijeka
QN‑1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-)
099 700 30 43.
Cammeo
QR‑3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 31 33 13, www.
taxi-cammeo.hr.
Kvarner taxi
Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.
Towed away
If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this
happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica
bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street A. K. Miošića – it’s
behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 07:00 - 21:15,
Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on
duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to re-
claim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.
Travel agencies
Jadrotours
QC‑2, Dolac 9b, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 71, www.jadrotours.
hr. Open 08:30-18:00; Fri 08:30-16:00; Sat 09:00-13:00;
closed Sun. A
Solen
QF‑2, Strossmayerova 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 15 87, www.
solen.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. A
Travelana
QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 8/II, tel. (+385-51) 32 15 43, www.
travelana.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. A
Tourist Information
Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the
Adriatic
Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the AdriaticQĆikovići
bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+385-51) 62 88
88, www.kvarner.hr. Open 08:00-20:00.
Tourist Information Center
Rijeka Tourist Information Centre.QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel.
(+385-51) 33 58 82, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:00-
20:00; Sun 08:00-14:00.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Customs
There are no custom limits between member states or tax
return. For other non-member states we recommend you
to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
Disabled travellers
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a
loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have
parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room
adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable
access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying
that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the
streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re plan-
ning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in
relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to
organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri-
cal appliances.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well
as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not
all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.
If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you
should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash
you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let
you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Roads
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
Toilets
Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer
disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2)
and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner
of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in
the park of the modern bridge (F-2).
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket
City Basics
Safety
You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in com-
parison with most Western European cities, even at
night. Although there is little street crime, of course it
is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal
belongings
Visas
Croatian Visa Policies are fully compliant with European
Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that ex-
actly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to en-
ter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter
Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit
the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.
In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit
other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain
a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing
through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border
without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to
enter Croatia.
When things go wrong
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers
you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on
the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or
were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police sta-
tion. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The
main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital
in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will
be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help
24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call
(+385-) 195.
national holidays 2019
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 21 Easter
April 22 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers’ Day
June 20 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
Summer 2019 61
 Maps & Street Register
Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2
Adamićev gat C-2, C-3
Agatićeva E-1, E-2
Alda Colonnella E-1
Alessandra Manzonia A-1
Ante Starčevića E-2
Baštijanova P-2
Bečko pristanište B-2
Blaža Polića B-1
Bošket U-1, U-2
Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2
Brajda A-1
Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2
Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1
Ciottina B-1, C-2
Dalmatinska E-2
De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3
Delta F-2
Demetrova D-3, E-3
Dolac C-2, D-2
Drage Šćitara V-2
A B
A B
62 Rijeka In Your Pocket
Drenovski put P-1
Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2
Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1
Fiumara Q-3 / E-2
Fra Serafina Schona V-2
Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1
Frana Supila D-1, D-2
Franje Brentinija F-2
Franje Čandeka N-2
F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2
Frankopanski trg U-1
Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3
Glavinićeva U-1, V-1
Gomila D-1
Grivica E-2
Grobnička cesta R-1
Grobnička riva E-3
Grohovo E-1
Ignacia Henckea D-2
Industrijska M-3, N-3
Istarska J-3
Istarsko pristanište C-2
Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2
Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1
Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1
Ivana Grohovca E-1
Ivana Rendića B-1
Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3
Ive Marinkovića C-1
Jadranski trg C-2
Janeza Trdine E-2
Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3
Jelačićev trg E-2
Josipa Kulfaneka R-2
Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2
Kalvarija E-1
Kastavska G-1
Kazališni park E-3
Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2
Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2
Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2
Križanićeva F-1
Kružna C-2
Kumičićeva R-3, S-3
Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1
La Guardia B-1
Liburnijska L-3
Linićeva V-1, V-2
Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3
Ljudevita Matešića B-1
Lorenzov prolaz D-1
Lošinjska K-3
Marka Remsa P-2
Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3
Matačićeva E-3
Matije Gupca E-2
Meštrovićeva L-2
Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3
Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2
Miroslava Krleže J-2
Mljekarski trg E-2
Moše Albaharija B-1
Muzejski trg D-1
C
C
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Nikole Tesle A-1
Nova Cesta L-2, M-2
Nova Ciottina C-1
Orlandov gat 3-A
Osječka N-1, O-2
Park Nikole Hosta D-1
Park Vladimira Nazora D-1
Partizanski put U-1
Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2
Pavlinski trg E-2
Petra Zrinskog U-1
Pod kaštelom D-1
Pod voltun D-2
Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1
Preluk G-2, G-3
Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1
Pul vele crikve E-2
Put Bože Felkera V-1
Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2
Radićeva U-2
Ribarska E-2
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Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2
Riva boduli D-3
Ružićeva F-1
Scarpina Q-3 / E-2
Senjsko pristanište D-3
Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1
Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2
Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2
Splitska C-2
Stipana konzula Istranina E-2
Strohalova D-1, D-1
Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2
Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2
Studentska B-1
Šenoina V-1,V-2
Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2
Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3
Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2
Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4
Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1
Šime Ljubića D-2
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Školjić E-1
Titov trg F-1
Tizianova O-2, P-2
Tome Strižića S-2
Trg Grivica E-1
Trg Ivana Koblera D-2
Trg Jurja Klovića D-2
Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2
Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2
Trg Svete Barbare E-2
Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1
Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2
Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2
Trninina E-3
Trpimirova C-2
Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1
Uski prolaz B-2
Uskočka riva E-2
Užarska E-2
Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3
Verdieva D-3
Veslarska E-2
Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1
Vinka Benca M-2, N-2
Viškovo L-1
Vodovodna E-1
Vrlije V-1
Vukovarska N-2, O-2
Wenzelova E-3
Zadarska C-2
Zagrebačka D-3
Zametska L-2, M-2
Zanonova C-2, D-2
Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1
Zvonimirova M-2, N-2
Žabica B-2, C-2
Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1
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