Guest writer K.

Ram Kumar continues his illustrated journey through the Himalayas, visiting the ancient shrines at Badrinath, Kedarnath and more. See also A Himalayan Journey - Part I. In this part, Joshimath, Pandukeshwar and Vyas Guh are covered. Part III will cover Kedarnath.

A Himalayan Pilgrimage
(Part I of III)

Foreword Badrinath Antiquity The Temple Deities Legends Temple Schedule Worship Protocol Hot Water Springs Panch Badri Access & Accomodation Foreword: The Himalayas have been revered as the abode of divinity, since the dawn of Indian religious thought. Several venerated pilgrimage sites dot the foothills and the peaks of the Himalayas. The Ganges, revered as a holy river originates in the glaciers in the unsurmountable heights of the mighty Himalayan ranges. Most noteworthy of the Himalayan pilgrimage sites are Badrinath and Kedarnath. Accessible only for six months in a year, Badrinath is reached by a precarious motorable road, while it takes an arduous trek to reach Kedarnath. Also in this pilgrimage route are several other shrines associated with the Indian epics as well as with eminent personalities such as Ved Vyas and Aadi Shankara (such as the Vyas Guh, and the Joshi Mutt). Also in the Himalayas are the Prayags or the sacred confluences of the various rivers that feed the Ganges. In this three part feature on the Himalayas, K. Ram Kumar of Chennai illustrates and covers several of the pilgrimage sites in the Himalayas. Part I features Badrinath alone. Part II will feature Joshi Mutt and several other shrines. Part III will feature Kedarnath. Significance: It is said that "there are many sacred spots of pilgrimage in the heavens, earth and the nether world, but there has been none equal to Badri, nor shall there be". Badrinath is situated in the Tehri-Garhwal hill tracks (Uttarakhand) at the height of 10,248 feet above sea level.

This shrine has been visited in the past by religious leaders such as Sankaracharya and is one of the foremost pilgrimage centers revered all over India. Badrinath has been sung in chaste tamil verse by one of the Alwar saints of Tamilnadu (Tirumangaialwar) , in the 8th century CE (and has also been mentioned by Perialwar, as one of the sacred centers of Vishnu) ; is considered to be one of the 108 sacred centers of the Sri Vaishnavite religion. Antiquity: Srimad Bhagvatam has explained the significance of the temple and the glory of Shri Badri Narayan. However the history and origins of the temple have not been well recorded with due authenticity. The Kings of Garhwal built the present structure of the temple about two centuries ago. Certain beliefs consider this image to be that of the Buddha (given the seated posture and the placement of the arms). Local legends say that the original temple was desecrated by Buddhists and the image thrown into Narad Kund, near river Alaknanda, to be retrieved later by Adi Sankara. The image was then restored to its original position and protocols of worship were established. The Temple: The temple, moderate in size, can be divided into three parts sanctum, the darshan mandap and sabha mandap The temple has suffered from avalanches, several times in the past and renovated. The Kings of Garhwal renovated the present structure almost two centuries ago. The beginning of Guru-Shisya parampara is supposed to have its roots here. This is symbolised by two range of mountains Nar range of mountains (representing the individual soul - Jeevatma) and Narayan range of mountains (on which side is the temple situated representing the supreme reality - Paramatma). These forms were used to convey the Ashtakshara mantras, Vedas and their importance. River Alaknanda, considered to be one of the most sacred, divides the two ranges of mountains. In the backdrop of the temple and Narayan range of mountains is the NeelKant Parvat ice clad mountain which is a feast to watch in the early morning hours when it sparkles at the time of sunrise (see image above). This majestic peak of Himalayas is of 19800-ft height. Deities: The sanctum here houses Lord Badri Narayan, Kuber ( God of wealth), Narad Rishi, Uthavar, Nar & Narayan. Lord Badri Narayan (also called as Badri Vishal) is armed with Conch (Shankh) and Chakra in two arms in a lifted posture and two more arms rested on the lap in Yogamudra. The principal image is of black stone and it represents Vishnu seated in meditative pose. The temple also houses Garud (Vahana vehicle of Lord Narayan) and Goddess Mahalaxmi (referred as Arvidavalli Thayar by Tamilians). Also here are the idols of Adi Sankara, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujar.

Legends associated with this temple: MahaVishnu is believed to have done his penance in this place. Seeing the Lord doing his penance in the open, Goddess Mahalaxmi is believed to have assumed the form of Badri (elandai) tree to provide him shelter to face the onslaught of the weather conditions, hence the name of Badri Narayan. Legend has it that Lord Vishnu identified Nar & Naryan forms to be of his own to Narad Rishi. Narad Rishi did his penance here and is believed to be worshipping these forms of supreme God with the Ashtakshara mantra even now. Temple Schedule: Weather conditions are such that, worship could be offered in this temple only for 6 months (May to early part of November - From tamil month Chittirai to Aippasi). During the winter period, the shrine remains closed (to be opened only on Chritra Pournami Full moon day of tamil month Chitrai) and during this intervening period it is believed that Divine beings conduct poojas to Lord Vishnu. In accordance with established Hindu rituals of conducting poojas without any break, the Utsavars (bronze images) are taken with all reverence to Pandukeshvar - abode for Lord Badri Vishal during winter. On the day of reopening of the main shrine at Badri, these images are taken back. Rituals offerings to pitrus (souls of the dead) are performed at Brahma Kapaalam (located at a distance of 200ft from the main shrine) on the banks of Alaknanda, by offering prasad (rice food) of Lord Badri Narayan. Worship Protocol: Though this shrine is located in the northern most part of India, the Chief Priest Ravaljiof Keralite (Namboodri) origins - performs the rituals. Procedures of daily poojas and rituals are supposed to have been prescribed by Adi Sankara. Unlike in most of the Hindu temples all the poojas (including decoration of idols) are performed before the eyes of all devotees. The temple opens at 7 am each day. The following is a list of the various worship services offered here, each day.. Nimalya Darshan : Chandan (sandalwood paste) left on the image of Badrinarayan from the previous night, is removed to enable devotees to have full view of the image. Abhishek Darshan : Process begins with Kalsa Pooja. Abishekam (ablution) is then carried out in the presence of pilgrims. Alankar Darshan : After abhishekam, the decoration process begins in the full view of devotees. Firstly, the entire idol, excluding the face, is covered with sandal paste and followed by the decoration with flowers & jewels. Aarti Darshan : On completion of alankars, aarthi ( lighting of camphor) is held. This marks the completion of forenoon pooja rituals and will end around 11.30 am 12.00 p.m., after which the temple is closed.

Reopening of the temple takes place at 4.00 p.m. for commencement of evening rituals which lasts till 8.00 p.m. During this period, Ashotothram and Sahasranamam recitations take place. Around 7.30 p.m. Mangal aarthi called as Geetgovind takes place. On completion of aarti, the Chief Priest removes the flowers & jewels in the full glimpse of devotees. The image of Badrinarayan is now left only with sandal paste, to be removed only the next morning and distributed as prasad. Hotwater Springs: The pilgrimage centre boasts of two natural hotwater springs Tapt Kund and Surya Kund. The sulphurous waters have a temperature of 55* C. A bath in these springs is believed to purify the body and soul and is done before visiting the temple. Panch Badri: i. ii. Vishaal Badri : Refers to the main Shri Badri Narayan Temple and is considered to be the most sacred. Yogadhyan Badri: Located at a distance of 24 kms from Badri Nath and at 20 kms from Joshimath. This is also the place where Maharaj Pandu (father of the Pandava princes) prayed to Pandukeshwar. Bhavishya Badri : This is located at 17 kms from Joshimath and is a small village. Preeta Badri : Located at 17 kms from Joshimath at place called Animath. Adi Sankara is believed to have worshipped Lord Badri Nath for some time. Aadi Badri : This is located at a distance of 16 kms from KarnaPrayag. Several temples constructed during Gupta Dynasty are here of which Mana Narayanan temple is considered to be the most popular one.

iii. iv. v.

Access and Accomodation: The journey to Badri, mostly from Rishikesh, is through Rudra Prayag. The road from Rudra Prayag is a single way route, passing through mountainous ranges, with the entire route fraught with dangerous curves and stone falling zones. Throughout the entire route, one one side is the River Alaknanda and on the other lofty mountains. Innumerable milky water falls add to the scenic beauty of the entire route. During rainy days, the route witnesses many landslides. On account of the vicinity to the international borders and risks of landslide in the entire route, the task of maintenance of the road has been entrusted to Border Roads Organisation (BRO), a Unit attached to Indian Army. The distance from Rudraprayag to Badri is 160 kms. Travel time will be dependent on weather conditions and landslides enroute.

Badrinath is also connected by road to Dehradun, Haridwar, Pauri, Uttarkashi, Nainital and Almora districts in UP Hills. Some of the major road distances are: Rishikesh 297 kms, Joshimath 42 kms, Haridwar 321 kms, Karnaprayag 123 kms, Rudraprayag 155 kms, Deoprayag 225 kms, Dehradun 343 kms. Nearest airport - Jolly Grant AirStrip ,is located at Dehradun, which is 315 kms away. The nearest railhead is at Rishikesh, which is at a distance of 292 kms. The shrine is open between April and November. Trips during rainy days are not desirable and are to be avoided. One should, without fail, carry Sweaters, woollen clothing, umbrellas and an emergency supply of medicines during the trip. Minimum luggage is preferred. Only vegetarian food and non-alcoholic beverages are permitted here. Reasonable accommodation, at cottages managed by Temple committee. is available at Badri. Postal and Banking facilities are also available.

Joshimath: Joshimath, the first mutt established by Shri Adi Sankara, is located at a distance of 14 kms from Helang enroute to Badri. Adi Sankara is believed to have authored the work, Sri Sankara Bhashyam here. This located at a height of 6150 ft above sea level. Here, there are separate temples for Narasimha and Vasudev (different forms of Vishnu). This is one of the 108 Divya Desams (sung by Sacred Vaishnavaite Saints). In the temple for Narasimha , separate statues of Badri narayan, Uthavar, Kuber, Chandikadevi, Ram, Lakshman, Sita and Garud can be seen together in the sanctum sanctorum. Outside the temple separate statues of Brahma, Krishana, Lakshmi & Anjaneya can be seen. Vyas Maharishi is believed to have worshipped Goddess Lakshmi here. The presiding deity Narasimha is believed to have been established by Adi Sankara. It is widely believed that one hand of the presiding deity is getting weakened and the day it disjoints, the way to Badri will get eternally blocked and that a darshan of Badri Narayan would be possible only from Bhavishya Badri or Adi Badri (part of Panch Badris). The temple of Vasudev houses Vasudev in the sanctum sanctorum as well as Sridevi, Bhoodevi, Leela devi, Oorvasi devi & Balram in the outer praharam. Further separate structures are available for Vinayaka, Brahma, Indira, Chandran(Moon), Navadurgas & Gauri Shankar. (Also see: Tiruppirudi (Joshi Math) and The Abodes of Vishnu) Pandukeshwar

This place is believed to have been established by King Pandu, father of Pandavas. It is situated at 4kms from Govind Ghat, 219 kms from Kedarnath and 24 kms from Badrinath. There are two temples one for Lord Yogabadri Narayan and the other for Vasudev. During winter, Lord Vasudev temple will function as the abode for Badri Narayan and all the daily rituals connected with worship are performed here. Both the temples are quite old. Vyas Guh (The cave of the Sage Vyasa) Vyas Guh (The cave of the Sage Vyasa)

The village of Mana, located at a distance of 3 kms from Badrinath is the last Indian Village situated in the Indo-China Border and has gained historical importance on account of Vysas Caves. This village, located on the banks of River Saraswathi (only place where this river can be seen) is very beautiful. Vyas Maharishi (Sage), author of Mahabharata is believed to have lived in the caves named after him. It is said that, Vyasa Maharish, upon being requested by his mentor Kalpatru Maharishi in his dream, composed the Mahabharata, the eternal epic of Hindus depicting the history of Pandavas, Kauravs including Kurukshetra War and most importantly Bhagawad Geeta (Chapter 18 of Mahabharata) believed to have been revealed by Krishna (reincarnation of Vishnu). Ganesha, the elder son of Shiva & Parvathi, is said to have helped Vyas Maharishi in composing this epic in written form the beginning of education in written form. In addition to Mahabharata, Vyas Maharishi composed 18 puranas (legendary stories), Brahma Sutras and classified the Hindu Vedas into 4 parts Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharvana. Legend has it that Adi Sankara met Vyas Maharishi in this cave, and discussed his Bhashyam (explanatory notes) for Brahma Sutras.

The rock formation inside the Vyas Guh appears to resemble the orderly stacking of palm leave manuscripts oldest writing material and is worshipped as "Vyas Pusthak". Vyas Maharishi is also considered, by some, as reincarnation of Vishnu. Another Cave called as Ganesh Guh (cave) is also located in this village.

The village also boasts of Keshav Prayag Sangamam (confluence) of Rivers Saraswathi and Alaknanda. Vasudhara Falls & Bhimpul Falls are nearby. Like Badrinath, the village becomes inaccessible during winter (almost 6 months) and the entire village vacates and moves to a safer place down the hills. Guest writer K. Ram Kumar continues his illustrated journey through the Himalayas, visiting the ancient shrines at Badrinath, Kedarnath and more. See also A Himalayan Journey - Part I and Part II. Kedarnath Temple is situated at 11500 ft above sea level in the Tehri-Garhwal range of Hills. Pilgrimage to this abode of Lord Shiva is considered to be the toughest, next only to Mount Kailash. Kedarnath is also one of the 12 Jyothirlingams held in reverence. Adi Sankaracharya is said to have worshipped Shiva here. The Tamil Saint Poets Thirugnansambandar and Sundarar have sung pathigams in praise of this deity.
(See Also: Abodes of Shiva, 12 Jyotirlinga Shrines of Shiva, Mount Kailash, All about Shiva)

Antiquity: The age of the temple is traced to Mahabharatha period. The original structure is believed to have been built by Pandavas. Janameyjayan, son of Parikshit Maharaj, is said to have constructed the Mandap (Hall) before sanctum sanctorum. The present structure is a result of renovations over a period of time. This moderately sized temple consists of a sanctum and a hall in front. Outside the temple, in the open sky, there is a majestic Nandi (Bull vehicle of Shiva) facing Shiva. Just at the entrance, there is Vinayaka - with a human face in a posture of prayer. The mandap, houses the images of Pandavas and their wife Draupadi original

builders of the temple besides Krishna (mentor of Pandavas a reincarnation of Vishnu) and Kunti (mother of Pandavas). While Yudhistir, eldest of the Pandavs stands symbolising Dharma , Arjun is dressed for performing penance. Others Bhim, Nakul & Sahadev stand duly armed with their respective traditional arms. In addition, there is also a small bull and Swami Veerbhadra inside the temple. Just before the sanctum sanctorum, an image of KedarGauri , consort of Shiva is located facing west. Shiva is worshipped in the form of a Shiva Lingam, facing South. There is also a small temple for Bhairav, to the south of main temple, who is said to guard the Kedarnath temple when it is closed for worship during winter.

Legend associated with this temple: After winning the Kurukshetra war, Pandavas felt remorseful for having killed thousands of lives including those of their cousins. In order to seek salvation from the sins of war, they sought the advice of their mentor, Krishna.

Krishna advised them to worship Shiva. Pandavas searched for Lord Shiva in the Shivalik mountains in the Tehri - Garhwal region. Shiva led them to this site and here, assumed the form of Bull and started grazing amongst the cattle. The Pandavas devised a ruse, to seek Shiva, who had hidden himself amidst a flock of cattle. At dusk, when the cattle were taken back to their shelters, Bhim gigantic in stature , strongest and courageous of Pandavas stretched his legs across the mountains so that cattle could pass through his legs. As suspected, Shiva, in bull form refused to do so and instead sank himself into the earth. Realising quickly that this was the play of Shiva, Bhim bent downwards and could catch hold of the hump (back portion of the bull). Shiva, pleased with the determination of Pandavas, blessed them and granted them salvation from their sins. The hump, in conical form, is worshipped as Shiva (in the form of a Shivalingam). Parvathi is also believed to have performed penance here to become integral part of Lord Shiva Ardhanareeswar Swaroopam or form. (see also Tiruchengode Ardhanareeswarar Temple)

On the background to this temple is Chaugambika Hills (called as Velliangiri in Tamil) fully snow clad peaks. These range of mountains are believed to be the beginning of Himalayas, where Mount Kailash is situated. It is also believed to be the path towards Swarg (Heaven). Pandavas are believed to have attempted to go to Heaven through this route. Legend has it that while all died enroute, only Yudhistir representing the symbol of Dharma and his dog managed to reach Heaven in the human form. Being in the Himalayan range, winter is severe and no continuous habitation is possible at Kedar. Hence the worship is restricted to six months. The temple is closed on the first day of Kartik (Oct- Nov) and reopened in Vaisakh (Apr-May). During the period of

closure, the temple remains submerged in snow and regular poojas are conducted at Ukkhimath. It is believed that during winter, Divine beings perform poojas to Lord Shiva as is being done by Humans- earthlings during summer.

On the way to the temple is "Uthank Kund" a perennial water source. It is believed that drinking this water as prasad from this Kund, will only complete worship at Kedar. Similar to Badrinath, Adi Sankara is said to have worshipped here and formulated the worship protocols. It is further said that Adi Sankara attained Samadhi here (no authentic proof is available) and to symbolise this is the Samadhi (final resting-place) located behind the Kedarnath temple. As prescribed by Adi Sankara, the Chief Priest of this temple is a person from Kannadiga Lingayat community (from the State of Karnataka). The Chief Priest is required to be strict bachelor. Worship Protocols: The services offered to Lord Shiva include Suprabadh (at 7 am) followed by Balbhog, Mahaabishek, Rudrahishek and Ashotar in the morning and in the evening Shiv Ashotatram, Sahasranamam and other archanas and in the end Ekantha Seva & Aarthi at 8 pm. When the temple is opened in the morning, devotees are allowed to enter the sanctum to have darshan at close quarters and also personally perform poojas. Unlike in most of the temples, devotees are allowed to touch the presiding deity and offer prayers here. It is believed that touching the idol of Lord Shiva by hand and placing ones head on the

lingam, in reverence, enables one to achieve Mukthi (salvation) from the sins of living, and liberates one from the cycles of birth and rebirth. Annual festivals celebrated include Badri-Kedar Utsav and Doli Yatra of Kedarnath. Associated Temples Panch Kedar When Shiva sank himself into the earth to escape from Pandavas, Bhim managed to hold on to the hump. However, it is believed that different parts of the bull emerged at five different places (including Kedar) as described in Padma Purana. The mythological description of these Kedars are explained below: 1. Kedarnath : The hump or the hinder part of the bull which was held by Bhim is worshipped as Lord Shiva. 2. Maddhyamaheshvra : Nabhi or the middle-part of the bull is worshipped as Lord Shiva. This is located at 21 kms from Ukhimath the abode for Lord Kedarnath during winter. 3. Tungnath : The Bahu or hand of the bull is worshipped here as Lord Shiva. It is located enroute to Badrinath and is 37 kms from Ukhimath, on a mountain in between Chamouli and Ukkhimath. 4. Rudranath: The Mukh or the mouth of the bull is worshipped as Lord Shiva here. It is about 19 kms from Mandal Chatti. 5. Kalpeshwar : The Jata or the hair of the head of bull is worshipped as Lord Shiva. This place is located about 8.7 kms from Helang, on the other side of the river Alaknanda. TRIYUGINARAYAN : This is a mythological venue, at a distance of 25 kms from Kedar and at a short trek of 5 kms from Sonprayag. It is believed that the wedding of Shiva with Parvathi was solemnised here. An eternal flame, said to be a witness for the above wedding, burns in front of the temple even today. Access and Accommodation: Upto Gaurikund,(14 kms from Kedar) the place is accessible by motorable roads. Regular bus services and private taxies ply in this route. However the route is prone to landslides and is difficult to navigate. Thus, any travel during rainy season should be completely avoided. State road authorities maintain this road. On the entire route, while mountains follow on the one side, River Mandakini flows in full form on the other side. The stretch of 14 kms from Gaurikund to Kedar is very difficult to trek and can covered only by foot or on ponies (mules) or dolies (palanquin bearers). Natures beauty in the entire route from Rishikesh to Kedar, will be a treat to watch and will be an experience of different kind which can not be explained.

The nearest airport is Dehradun Jolly Grant AirStrip and is located at a distance of 239 kms. Nearest railhead is situated at Rishikesh 221 kms from Kedar (of which 207 kms is motorable upto Gaurikund). During summer, postal and banking facilities are available at Kedar. There is also a small Government Dispensary at Kedar. Like Badri, non-vegetarian food and consumption of alcohol is strictly prohibited at Kedar. Local eateries / Dhabhas offering vegetarian food are available. Private Hotels, Dharmasalas and Guest House maintained by the Temple Committee are available for stay.