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Regular Ocean Waves (Linear Waves)

H

c
z
L
x
still water
line (SWL)
d
a
crest
trough
sea bottom


= displacement of the water surface, varies with time and location, (meters, feet, etc.)
H = wave height, constant with time at a given location, (m, ft)
a = wave amplitude (m, ft) ( a H = / 2 for linear waves)
L = wave length (m, ft)
T = wave period, time required for one complete wave to pass a fixed point (seconds,
minutes, hours)
f = wave frequency = 1/T (cycles/sec = Hertz, Hz)
= wave circular or radian frequency = 2/T= 2f (radians/sec)
c = wave celerity or wave speed, c = L/T (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
c
g
= wave group velocity (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
d = water depth (m, ft, fathoms (fm) = 6 ft)
k = wave number = 2/L (m
-1
, ft
-1
, etc.)
u = water particle velocity in the x (horizontal) direction (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
w = water particle velocity in the z (vertical) direction (m/sec, ft/sec, etc.)
a
x
= water particle acceleration in the x (horizontal) direction (m/sec
2
, ft/sec
2
, etc.)
a
z
= water particle acceleration in the z (vertical) direction (m/sec
2
, ft/sec
2
, etc.)

Wave Displacement ( ) = a kx cos t
Wave Number k L = 2
Radian Frequency = 2 T
Dispersion Relation ( )
2
= gk kd tanh

Shallow Water Intermediate Deep Water
d/L < 1/20, 0.05 0.05 < d/L <1/2 d/L > 1/2
d/(gT
2
) < 0.0025 d/(gT
2
) > 0.08
Wave Speed
c
L
T
gd = =
( )
c
L
T k
g
k
kd
= =
=

tanh

c c
L
T
gL
O
= = =
2

Wave Length
L T gd =
L
gT d
L
=
|
\

|
.
|
2
2
2


tanh L
gT
=
2
2

Wave Period
T
L
gd
=
( )
L
L
g d
=
2
2

tanh L
T
L
g
=
2

Group Velocity c c
g
=
( )
c
c d L
d L
g
= +

(
(
2
1
4
4

sinh
c
c
g
=
2


Horizontal Water Particle Velocity
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )
( ) t kx
kd
kd kz
a
t kx
kd
kd kz agk
u

+
=

+

=
cos
sinh
cosh
cos
cosh
cosh


Vertical Water Particle Velocity
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )
( ) t kx
kd
kd kz
a
t kx
kd
kd kz agk
w

+
=

+

=
sin
sinh
sinh
sin
cosh
sinh


Horizontal Water Particle Acceleration
( )
( )
( ) a
x
agk
kz kd
kd
kx t =
+

cosh
cosh
sin
Vertical Water Particle Acceleration
( )
( )
( ) a
z
agk
kz kd
kd
kx t =
+

sinh
cosh
cos

Energy per unit surface area E ga gH = =
1
2
2 1
8
2


Energy per unit wave crest width E ga L gH
T
= =
1
2
2 1
8
2
L

Energy flux per unit wave crest width

E Ec ga c gH c
g g
= = =
1
2
2 1
8
2

g

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