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PETvet Assembly Manual (version 2012-06-24)

Hardware design and software 2012 Mike Hill (Bitfixer) Assembly Manual 2012 Jac Goudsmit http://www.bitfixer.com All trademarks are the property of their respective holders.

This manual is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/.

Thank you for purchasing the Bitfixer PETvet! This manual will help you put the kit together. The manual won't show you how to do the actual soldering. We assume that you already know how to solder. If you've never soldered before, we recommend that you google for a soldering tutorial first. There are many of them, including video tutorials. The circuit board may not have a silk screen to tell you where to mount each of the parts, but it's not difficult to put together. Here are some tips: Almost all the components go onto the PCB on the side that has the copyright text (something like "PETvet v3.0 2012 bitfixer.com"). The only parts that go on the other side are the pin headers that will eventually plug into the motherboard of the computer. We will put those parts on last, so they don't get in the way. On the PCB, pin 1 of each IC is marked by a square solder pad. Each socket must be soldered so that the notch in the socket is close to this pin, and when you put the IC's in the sockets, the notch in the IC should be on the same side as the notch in the socket. To minimize the chance that already-mounted parts might get in the way of soldering new parts, please mount the parts in the order described in this manual. This also minimizes the chance that parts end up in the wrong place. Once you're done, the PETvet should look like the picture on the front page. Have fun!

Start by checking your inventory. This is a list of parts that should be in your kit: (1x) 74LS245 Octal bi-directional bus driver chip (20 pins) (2x) 74LS541 Octal bus driver chip (20 pins) (1x) 628128 128KB Static RAM chip (32 pins) (1x) Atmel ATMEGA644A (or equivalent) microcontroller chip (40 pins) (1x) 2016 2KB Static RAM chip (24 pins) (1x) MAX232 RS-232 voltage converter chip (16 pins) (7x) IC sockets for the above (2x) additional IC sockets to be used for the 6502 processor (2x) 20x1 pin header (may be included as one 40x1 pin header) (4x) 3x1 pin header (1x) 6x1 pin header (1x) 2x1 pin header (4x) Jumpers (1x) DB-9 female connector (4x) Resistor 1000 Ohms (4x) Capacitor 1 Microfarad ("104") (1x) PETvet Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Let's start with one of the 20-pin sockets. There are three of them, and these are easy to recognize: they are the longest of the narrow sockets if you don't care much about counting pins . Solder it in the place shown in the photo above. Make sure you get it on the correct side of the circuit board; the copyright text is on the component side; there is no text on the solder side. Make sure the notch in the socket is towards the square pad that marks pin 1. In the photo, the notch is towards the top.

The next socket is also 20 pins and goes next to the previous one. See the picture. The notch goes the same way as the previous chip: towards the top of the photo. Spoiler alert: All the chips that are soldered in this direction (i.e. "vertical" in the photo) have their notches on the same side.

The next part to solder onto the board is one of the 40-pin sockets (the biggest ones in the kit), in the place shown in the picture. You can already see that another socket is going to be next to it, so you may be worried that the socket might go in the wrong place, but there is a slightly bigger gap between this socket and the next one than the gap between two holes on the same IC.

Now we mount the 32-pin socket as shown above. Tip for those who don't like to count pins: it's not as big as the 40-pins sockets (of which you should have two left by now) but bigger than all the other ones.

By now, you should have only one 20-pin socket left. The picture shows where it goes.

The final narrow socket is 16 pins and fits only in one place. See above.

Next, solder the 24-pin socket. For this one, the notch goes towards the right side of the photo, in case you missed the square solder pad.

Mounting the DB-9 connector is pretty easy. One side of the connector is cut off otherwise it would be in the way of the IC that's next to it.

Because the edge was cut off, the front and the back of the connector are only attached on one side, and when you pull the serial cable from the connector, you might bend it. To prevent this, you may want to solder the two parts of the connector together, as shown in the photo above.

We're not going to put any more sockets onto the PCB for now because they would only be in our way. Instead, let's put the passive components onto the board first. The photo above shows the first two capacitors to solder, near the 16pin socket (the PCB is upside down with respect to the previous photos). Make sure you got the location correct. The capacitors in the kit aren't polarized so it doesn't matter if you mount them backwards. Also, all capacitors in the kit have the same value so you don't have to worry that you'll mix them up.

The other two capacitors are on the other side of the 16-pin socket. In the photo above, the circuit board is turned back the way we had it before. Once again, make sure you solder the capacitors in the right place!

There are four resistors in the kit and they are all the same value. Solder three of them as shown above.

The fourth and last resistor goes in this place on the right side of the circuit board (on this photo, the PCB is turned 90 degrees clockwise). Note, there is another place on the circuit board where a resistor might fit, but no resistor is needed there.

Now all the passive components are in place, let's mount some headers. The sixpin programming header is included as two 3x1 pin headers. To make sure the headers go in straight, you can temporarily put three jumpers on them while you solder them, as shown above. Do you see the place next to the jumpers where a resistor could go, but where none is needed?

The other jumpers go into the board as shown above: the six pin header goes next to the two resistors near the top of the photo (you can't miss it), a two pin header goes near the two capacitors, and two more 3-pin headers go near the resistor on the left and the resistor on the right. The six pads (grouped 3x2) near the top left of the photo remain unpopulated, and so do the three pairs of two pads each near the corner shown on the right of the photo (one pair of pads is not visible here, see the detailed photo with the capacitors to see where it is). The jumpers are shown in "run" mode, for a PET-2001 with BASIC 2.0, see the http://www.bitfixer.com website to find out what other configurations are available. The two pin header can be shorted to reset the system, and the six pin programming header should not have any jumpers anymore. All other headers shown here do need jumpers.

Now it's time to mount the headers on the bottom side. If your headers came in one strip of 40 pins, cut or break them in two equal size pieces carefully. Put the headers into the bottom of the board as shown, but don't solder them yet! Make sure you use the correct holes; again, study the picture. The holes where the headers go are slightly bigger in diameter than the holes where the socket will go in the next step. If you put the headers in the wrong holes, the hardware will not work! Before you solder the headers into place, push one of the remaining 40 pin sockets onto the header as shown in the next picture. This will help keep the headers aligned, and it will be easier to hold them in place while you're soldering them.

This photo shows how we pushed the socket onto the header. Once you do this, it will be easy to solder the headers from the other side of the circuit board. After you're done soldering the headers, pull the socket off them again. Keep this socket separate! The header pins are pretty big so the contacts in the socket may have bent open just a little bit. When we're done, we'll want to reuse this socket for the same purpose again, and we'll want the other 40-pin socket on the top side of the board.

The pins of the header may be slightly in the way of the socket that you're going to solder next. If you want, you can cut them down just a little bit (on the component side obviously) to reduce the problem, but even if you leave them as they are, you can still mount the 40-pin socket on the top side, you may just have to use a bit more solder tin because the pins don't go through the board as far as they would normally go. Whatever you do, make sure the pins are in and through the board as much as they can, even if the socket doesn't end up flush to the board.

Next, put the IC's in the sockets. Note that the pins usually have to be bent towards each other to fit in the sockets. The easiest way to do this is by holding the IC in both hands and pushing it down sideways on a table top. The Atmel microcontroller and the 628128 chip are so close together that they will barely seem to fit. The easiest way to insert these is to put both IC's loosely on top of their respective sockets, and then push them down at the same time. The MAX232 and the 2016 chip are also pretty close together; you will want to insert the MAX232 (16 pins) before you insert the 2016 (24 pins) otherwise they might get in each other's way. Make sure you don't mix up the three 20-pin IC's. The two 74LS541 IC's are next to each other near the edge of the board, and the 74LS245 is in the center. On the photo, our 74LS245 has a little white sticker but yours probably won't have that. Obviously, all IC's have to be inserted in the right direction. Watch for the notch and make sure it lines up with the notch in each socket (which should in turn line up with pin 1, which is marked on the PCB with a square pad). In the photo above, you can see that the notches are all on the top-right side of the chip, except the 2016 chip which is mounted sideways and has its notch going towards the MAX232 chip.

Before you put the PETvet into your computer, unplug the power cord. Remove the 6502 from the computer and insert it into the socket on the PETvet. Put the 40-pin socket that you removed from the headers earlier back onto those headers. DO NOT TRY TO PUSH THE HEADERS STRAIGHT INTO A SOCKET ON YOUR COMPUTER'S MOTHERBOARD. The header pins are so much bigger than the pins of a 6502 that you may damage the socket in your computer. This photo shows how we removed the 6502 from a non-CRTC CBM 4032 and inserted it into the socket on the PETvet, and then mounted the PETvet into the socket on the motherboard where the 6502 normally goes. The jumpers are in the wrong location for a 4032, by the way. Also, for normal operation you will probably want to connect the serial cable to the PETvet before you put the PETvet into the computer: the insertion force of the serial cable may be a lot higher than the removal friction of the 6502 socket in your computer so if you connect the serial cable after inserting the card into the computer, you may accidentally push the card out of the socket and bend some pins.

Speaking of bent pins: the kit we built to take the pictures has some trouble: when we turned on the 4032 (which is normally fully operational), we just got garbage on the screen, indicating that the processor wasn't running. We used some needle-nose pliers to twist the socket pins just slightly (about a 30-45 degree twist on each pin) and then the PETvet worked as expected. (The clamp on the left is just to hold the PCB up while the picture was taken)

Here's another picture of the PETvet posing in the same 4032, still without serial cable and still with the jumpers in the wrong place . The serial cable that you can use to control the PETvet should be a straightthrough cable (with at least pins 2, 3 and 5 connected end-to-end). Don't use a "null-modem" or cross-over cable. Configure your control computer to 38400bps, 8 bits data, no parity, 1 stopbit, no flow control. If you're using a PC as a control computer, we recommend TeraTerm which you can download from the Internet for free. You can also use Hyperterminal but this is not included in recent Windows versions anymore. On other operating systems, terminal emulators that can use serial ports should also be easy to find. When you turn your 6502 computer on, PETvet will send a message to the serial port announcing itself. If your control computer sends a character to the serial port, the PETvet microcontroller halts the 6502 and makes it possible to access the rest of your system through the serial port. See the bitfixer.com website for more information about how to use the software in the PETvet. We hope you enjoyed building your own PETvet, and that it will help you solve any problems you may have with your 8-bit computer. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us. You can also post your questions and comments on the Vintage Computer forum at http://www.vintage-computer.com.

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