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3.1 Plain weave derivatives 3.2 Twill weave derivatives 3.3 Satin/sateen derivatives
Rib weaves are obtained by extending the plain weave in either warp or weft direction.
Two kinds of rib weave: warp rib weaves weft rib weaves
Warp ribs are constructed by inserting several picks in succession into the same shed of an ordinary plain weave. This forms a rib effect across the fabric. (see Fig. 3.1)
The same number of picks are inserted in each successive rib, giving the fabric a regular appearance. See Fig. 3.3 This figure shows 3 picks are inserted into each shed
A variation in the width of rib is achieved by inserting different numbers of picks into each successive shed. See Fig. 3.4.
1) Calculating the weft repeat Ry : Ry = numerator + denominator Ro = 2 2) Drawing the first end according to the fraction given. 3) Drawing the second end opposite to the first one.
Example: 2/1 irregular warp rib
Weft ribs are constructed with several warp threads used as one when interlacing with each pick in succession. They form a vertical rib effect in the fabric. (See Fig. 3.5 two ends are
used as one)
An regular number of ends are used to form each rib, giving the fabric a regular appearance. See Fig.3.6
A variation in the width of the rib is achieved by varying the number of ends in each successive rib, as shown in Fig. 3.7.
Example: 2/1 Irregular weft rib
Notes: Warp rib weaves produce ribs running weft-way Shown in Fig.3.1
Applications
Rib gives a more flexible cloth than plain weave and has many applications. Fabrics are woven in silk, cotton, wool and man-made fibers. Their end uses range from dress fabrics, coats, suits, millinery, ribbons and wedding to upholstery and drapery.
Hopsack weaves are constructed by extending the plain weave both vertically and horizontally. See Fig. 3.8
Regular hopsack
Regular hopsacks are woven with the same number of ends and picks and the same yarn count. Equal warp floats exchange with equal weft floats. See Fig. 3.9
Irregular hopsack
Different units of hopsack are arranged in one repeat, with the distribution of warp or weft floats being equal or a predominance of either. See Fig. 3.10
Applications
Hopsack weave fabrics are less stiff than plain due to its fewer intersections, and they have smooth and lustrous surface. Hopsacks are suitable for Apparel, drapery, and are often used for selvedge of other fabrics.
Home works:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Drawing the weave diagrams 2/2 warp rib; 2/2 weft rib; 2/2 hopsack; 3/3 hopsack; warp rib 2 2
1 2
3 2
1 2 2 1