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In the thirteenth century, the wool trade was the economic engine of the Low Countries and of Central Italy; by the end of the following century Italy predominated.
Sheep were one of the first animals domesticated by humans. They had a long hair-like outer guard layer with a more downy insulation layer underneath resembling what we think of as wool. They shed this coat in the spring. Primitive people collected the fiber finding it to be of great use, learned to spin. Thus the wool industry was born. The first sheep were brought to the North American continent in 1493 on the second voyage of Columbus
New England was the first area to establish a spinning and weaving industry. Initially begun in homes, later in small factories, it continued to grow. Eventually the first water powered textile factories were established in 1788. The industry was greatly boosted during the Civil War by a great demand for wool to make soldier's uniforms. Breeders use imported Merino sheep to improve native stock to help meet the demand
Today
Wool is 5% of the world's textile industry. Most of our domestic breeds produce 45 times more wool than sheep initially brought to the United States greatly due to the influence of the Merino. All domestic wool produced finds use in a variety of products. However, because of defects, contamination, and other quality problems, it is of lower value than some imported wool.
Mills rely on imported wool to maintain operation (about 76%). The mills require higher quality fiber to maximize production due to modern methods and equipment.
The quality of wool is determined by the breeding, Climate, food, general care and health of the sheep. Cold weather produced a hard and heavy fiber Poor or insufficient food retards growth. It has soft resiliency power and it is also used to make rugs and blankets. The chief wool producing countries are Australia, U.S.S.R., New Zealand, Argentina, South-Africa and the United States (U.S.A.). The chief constituent of wool fiber is a protein substance called Keratin and it is the only fiber which contains Sulphur.
Classification by Sheep: There are over 200 grades of wool producing sheep. Merino Wool:- Produced from Merino Sheep and the fibres are very fine, strong and elastic.
Classification by Fleece (Based on the shearing of the fleece): Lambs Wool: About 6-8 to months. Hogget Wool: About 12-14 months. Wether Wool: Any fleece clipped after the first shearing of sheep. Pulled Wool: The shearing done by a chemical depilatory like lime before it is slaughtered for meet. Dead Wool: The shearing is done over the dead sheep Cotty Wool: The wool obtained from any sheep of severe weather condition.
1. CLASSIFICATION BY SHEEP
1. CLASS I WOOL (OR) MERINO WOOL Merino sheep of Spain produce the best quality wool which is strong, fine elastic and has good working properties. It has the greatest amount of crimp of all wool fibers and has a maximum number of scales to give maximum warmth and spinning qualities. Spain is the only country which produced fine wool known as merino wool.
2. CLASS II WOOL
It is obtained from the sheep from England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales.
It is 2 to 8 inches in length, has a large number of scales per inch and has good crimp.
The fibers are strong, fine , elastic and have good working properties. It is not as good as merino wool, but nevertheless it is very good quality wool.
The fibers are 4 to 8 inches long, are coarser and have fewer scales and less crimp than Merino Wool and class II wool.
They are smoother and have more luster. They are less elastic and resilient. They are nevertheless of good enough quality to be used for clothing.
4. CLASS IV WOOL
This class is actually a group of Mongrel sheep sometimes referred to as half-breeds. The fibers are 1 to 16 inches long are coarse and hair like, have relatively few scales and little crimp and therefore smoother and more lustrous. It has least elasticity and strength and used mainly for carpets, rugs and inexpensive low-grade clothing.
STRUCTURE OF WOOL
The Cortex of the wool fibre is composed of two distinct sections, Ortho cortex and Para cortex. The Microscopic structure of wool has following parts: Cuticle Macro Fibril Micro Fibril Proto Fibril Wool Polymer
Structure
Epicuticle- thin outer membrane covering the cuticle Cuticle- protective layer of overlapping flattened cells called scales Cortex- major component of wool fiber, inner layer Medulla- the central core found primarily in medium and coarse wool
PHYSICAL PROPOERTIES
The physical properties of the wool refers to the strength, thermal nature, etc. The various physical properties are: Tenacity Elastic and Plastic Nature Hydroscopic Nature Heat of Wetting Thermal Properties
TENACITY
Wool is comparatively a weak fiber. The low Tensile strength of wool is due to the relatively few Hydrogen Bonds that are formed. When Wool absorbs moisture, the water molecules gradually force enough polymers apart cause a significant no. of hydrogen molecules to break. Breakage and Hydrolysis of these Inter Polymer forces of attraction are apparent as swelling of fiber and result in further loss of tenacity, when wool is wet.
HYDROSCOPIC NATURE
Wool is a very Absorbent fiber due to the Amorphous nature of polymer system. In relatively dry weather, wool develops static electricity. This is because there are not enough water molecules in the polymeric system to dissipate any static electricity which is being developed.
HEAT OF WETTING
Wool is renowned for its ability to give off small but steady amount of heat while absorbing moisture. This is known as Heat of Wetting. It is considered to be due to energy given off by the collision between water molecules and the groups in the wool polymer system. This friction is severe and thereby liberates energy. Thus, wearer feels slightly warm when the wool fabric absorbs moisture.
Crimp Caused by the unique chemical and physical properties of wool. The fiber tends to bend and turn in to a resilient 3 dimensional structure. It holds in air to insulate the wearer. This property make wool naturally elastic and resilient causing rapid wrinkle recovery, durability, bulk, loft, warmth, and resistance to abrasion. Water Absorbency Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp or clammy. This makes wool good for all climates since it aids in the body's cooling mechanisms to keep moisture away from the skin.
Resistance to Fire Wool contains moisture in every fiber allowing it to resist flame without any additional chemical treatment. The wool will just char and self extinguish. Dyeability Wool absorbs many dyes deeply, uniformly, and directly without the use of chemicals. This characteristic allows wool to achieve very beautiful and rich colors when dyed.
Durability The flexibility of wool makes it very durable. A single wool fiber can be bent back on itself more than 20,000 times without breaking. Compare this to the only 3,000 times of cotton and 2,000 times of silk. Its elasticity makes it very resistant to tearing. Wool also has an outer film making it resistant to abrasion. Resilience Wool fiber can be stretched up to 50% of its length when dry and up to 30% of its length when wet without breaking It will return to its original length when released.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
EFFECT OF ACIDS AND ALKALIS
Wool is resistant to Acids than to Alkalis because alkalis hydrolysis the Peptide group( -[CONH]- ) Wool is not at all resistant to alkalis. Wool, when submerged into high quantity of high concentrations of acids, gets weakened.
EFFECT OF BLEACHES
Wool is treated with Reducing Bleaches such as Sodium sulphide Sodium Bisulphide which converts the color producing component of the fabric to colorless compound. After this, Oxidizing bleach such as Hydrogen Peroxide is applied which converts compounds into water soluble compounds. After this, the wool fibre is rinsed off and a permanent bleach is obtained. The dyes used in wool are : Acid dyes, Mordant dyes, Reactive dyes, etc.
The hair of the sheep is trimmed first. The raw wool or newly sheared wool called grease wool because it contains the natural oil of the sheep.
Sorting & Grinding: Wool sorting is done by skilled workers who are experts in distinguishing by touch and sight. Determined by type, length, fineness, elasticity and strength.
Garnetting:-
Carbonizing.
Scouring: Raw wool is scoured by washing it in a solution of soap, warm water and soda ash or any other alkali. This removes the grease and oil in wool
Drying: Wool is not allowed to dry completely, 12-16% of moisture is left over. Oiling: Wool is treated with oil to lubricate it and to keep it from
becoming brittle.
Blending: Wool of different grades may
Carding:-
Gilling and Combing: The gilling process removes the short staple and straightens the fibres.
CARDING PROCESS
Drawing: Makes the sliver compact and thin by doubling and redoubling the wool fibre.
MACHINE SPINNING
SPINNING WHEEL
FINISHES USED
Fulling Crabbing Decating: It includes two processes
London shrinking
Wool Blends
Wool is blended with a wide variety of fibres. Wool and Cotton Wool is blended with cotton in various ratios. The properties of the yarns and fabrics will be affected by the proportions of the fibres blended. Wool contributes warmth, resilience, abrasion resistance, and drapability. Cotton adds strength and reduces the cost of yarn and fabric. Both fibres are absorbent and can be blended to make a comfortable, durable fabric with a nice hand. Wool and Linen Wool is sometimes blended with linen. Linen may be used in such a blend which is stronger than a pure wool fabric, but is more resilient and drapable than a pure linen fabric.
GRADES OF WOOL
In order for wool to be sold in International Trade, methods of expressing grades for raw wool have been devised. On the World Market, grade is expressed by a Number System. The Finer the wool, the Higher the number. Comparative Grading Systems
Fine Half-blood Three-eighths blood Quarter-blood 80s,70s, 64s 62s, 60s, 58s 56s 50s, 48s
SOURCES OF WOOL
Large wool producing and exporting nations are:
Countries contributing to greatest amount of carpet wool to world market are: Argentina, India, Pakistan, New Zealand, Syria, Iraq and Iran.
BENEFITS OF WOOL
Resists Wrinkles Retains Shape Resists Soiling Resists Flames Wool is Durable Wool is comfortable in all seasons Repels Moisture
APPLICATIONS OF WOOL
Wool is used in the manufacture of various Products like:
Boots Carpet Blankets Sweaters Coats Seat covers Bed sheets Cushion covers Curtains
1. PREPARATION
Fleeces vary from 6 to 18 pounds (3-8Kg) in weight and provides 3 lbs (1.5Kg) of scoured wool. Wool is sorted and graded according to the quality, then trimmed, rolled up, tied and packed in sacks weighing about 225-350 lbs (100-160Kg). Superior wool comes from the sides and shoulders of sheep where it is longer, finer and softer and it is treated as one fleece. Wool from the head, chest, belly and shanks is treated as a second fleece.
Wool sorting is done by expert skilled workers who distinguish the different qualities by touch and sight. Twenty different grades are obtained from one fleece. Each grade is determined by type, strength, length, fineness, elasticity and strength. The grading system on the world market is based upon the British numbering system which relates the fineness or diameter of wool, etc.
3. GARNETING
Recycled wool fibers are obtained by separately reducing the unused and used materials to a fibrous mass by a picking and shredding process called garneting. The fibers are then put through a dilute solution of sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid which destroys any vegetable fiber that may be contained in the raw stock. This process is known as Carbonizing and the resultant wool fibers are called extracts. The new staple ranges from to 11/2 inch in length.
4. SCOURING
A thorough washing of raw wool in an alkaline solution is called scouring. The scouring machine contains warm water, soap and a mild solution of soda-ash or other alkali and is equipped with automatic rakes which stir the wool. Rollers between the vats squeeze out the water. Valuable by products are obtained from the spent liquors in the scouring of wool.
The most important by product is lanolin which is largely used in manufacture of cosmetics, adhesive plasters, disinfectants, ointments,etc.
5. CARBONIZING
Fibers are put in Hydrosulphuric acid or Hydrochloric acid solution to destroy vegetable substance.
If the wool still contains and vegetable substance after scouring, it is put through carbonizing process which burns out the foreign matter.
6. DRYING
Wool is not allowed to become absolutely dry. Usually about 1216% of the moisture is left in the wool for further handling.
7. OILING
Wool becomes unmanageable after scouring, the fiber is usually treated with various oils, including animal, vegetable and mineral or a blend of these to keep it from becoming brittle and to lubricate(oil) it for the spinning operation.
8. DYEING
If wool is to be dyed in the raw stock, it is dyed at this stage whereas wool fabrics are piecedyed, yarn skin dyed and some are top-dyed.
9. BLENDING
Inferior grade of wool mixed with better grades of wool or a small amount of cotton is blended with a raw wool and a greater amount of twist is increase the strength in the fabric.
Manmade fibers such as nylon, polyester or acrylic may be blended with wool and the wool helps in contribution of warmth, absorbency, drape and handling.
10. CARDING
The carding process introduces the classification of woolen yarns and worsted yarns. At this point, of manufacturing process, it should be decided weather wool fiber is to be made into a woolen or a worsted product, because manufacturing of woolen and worsted is different.
The carded wool which is to be made into worsted yarn is put through gilling and combing operations. The gilling process removes the shorter fibers (called as combing noils and of 1-4 inches in length) and places the longer fibers (tops) as parallel as possible and further cleans the fibers by removing any remaining loose impurities.
Combing noils (shorter fibers) are used for ordinary and less expensive fabrics and tops (longer fibers) for manufacturing worsted fabrics as gabardine, whipcord, serge and convert and produce fabrics with good colour, feel and strength,
12. DRAWING
It is done only to worsted yarns. It is an advanced operation which doubles and redoubles slivers of wool fibers. The process draws and twists the fibers and makes the slivers more compact and thin.
13. ROVING
It is the final stage before spinning. It is a slight twisting operation to hold the thin slubbers (fibers) intact.
14.SPINNING
Here the wool roving is drawn out and twisted into yarn. Woolen yarns are spun on mule spinning machine. Worsted yarns are spun on mule, ring, cap or flyer kind of spinning. Two different systems to spin worsted yarns is English System and French System:
CUSHION COVERS
SWEATERS
SHAWLS
CURTAINS
SOCKS
BED SHEETS
CARPETS