Chapter 13

(2008 Edition)
Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning

client ~ judgments about surroundings

the shampoo:
~ heavenly ~ forgettable ~ nightmare preliminary step for services Add to the side bar:
Nadinesalons.com

has a psychological impact

Soothing ~ pleasurable sets the mood quality relaxation time

Nbcaugusta.com

happy with shampoo

~ happy with entire service

Understanding Shampoo
analyze ~ hair and scalp Check for: dry, dehydrated hair dry, tight scalp oily scalp abnormal flaking
www.aderans.com.sg/images/1-p16.jpg Cme.medscape.com

open wounds scalp irritations scalp disorders or diseases ~ pediculosis thinning excessive hair ~ left in the sink
www.bosleymedical.com/wp-content/uploads/2009...

alert the stylist ~ any hair or scalp conditions

infectious disease is never treated

~ referred to a physician cleanse the hair and scalp prior to services home care

quality hair care products

remove all: dirt oils cosmetics skin debris

cleanse regularly ~ combat oils ~ perspiration ~ dirt ~ breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria

shampoo as often as necessary excessive:

~ strips protective oil (sebum)

oily hair shampooed more often

Add to side bar: Shampoo products account for the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

Types of Shampoo
skilled at selecting shampoos read the labels make informed decisions

recommend home-care items

select a shampoo

~ condition of hair and scalp

oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated not considered normal or virgin if:

~ has been treated

~ chemical service (lightened, permed, etc) ~ abused by harsh shampoos ~ damaged by improper care ~ exposed to the elements

www.ourvanity.com/images/damaged-hair.jpg www.enviroblog.org/hair.jpg

right hair care products at home ~ makes all the difference

~ looks, feels, and behaves

wrong product choice ~ good haircut look bad affects outcome of chemical services

Alibaba.com Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk Sleekhair.com Duelle.co.za

Tuscanysalon.com

only professional products ~ guaranteed when purchased in a salon clients

~ good advertising for you

Chapter 10 page 169-174

Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions

All physical mixtures

~ difference between:
*size of the particles

*solubility of the substance

Solution: ~ two or more mixable substances

Solute: ~ substance dissolved in a solution

Solvent: ~ dissolves the solute to form a solution

Miscible liquids ~ mutually soluble

* mixed into stable solutions

ex. water and alcohol

Immiscible liquids ~ not mixed into stable solutions ex. water and oil

Solutions
~ do not separate ex. saltwater Suspensions ~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles ~ separate over time ex. oil and vinegar salad dressing

calamine lotion
nail polish
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Emulsions ~ unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances ~ with aid of an emulsifier ~ separate over time ~ stable for at least three years

Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care products.

Surfactants ~ allow oil and water to mix

The term=surface active agent

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Head of the surfactant molecule is Hydrophilic = water-loving Tail is Lipophilic = oil-loving Fig. 10-7

Oil-in-water emulsion ~ oil is emulsified in water Ex. Mayonnaise ~egg yolk emulsifies the oil and the water

Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos, conditioners, and hand creams

www.cachebeauty.com/Body_Drench/body_drench_t...

www.stuff4beauty.com/images2/socolor.jpg

Water-in-oil emulsions ~ water emulsified in oil

* feels greasy
ex. Cold cream and styling creams

2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg
riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg

Other common product ingredients are:

Volatile alcohols ~ evaporate easily * isopropyl alcohol (rubbing)

Fatty alcohols:
cetyl alcohol

cetearyl alcohol
* hair conditioners
www.getprice.com.au/.../851/350__1_1499052-1.jpg

Alkanolamines ~ neutralize acids

~ raise pH of products
~ used in place of ammonia

* less odor

www.salonsupplies.co.uk/dyn/product/large_pro...

Ammonia ~ raises pH in products

~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft

ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer)

ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)

Glycerin
~ moisturizer in skin and body creams

Silicones
~ type of oil in conditioners and skin

~ less greasy
~ does not cause comedones ~ silky smooth feel on skin ~ shine to hair
www.thebeautyshoppe.com/Products/Images/power...

Volatile organic compounds ~ evaporate very quickly

ex. Hairspray

* SD alcohol

dailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a010536308b66970...

Potential Hydrogen (pH) Understanding pH ~ affects skin and hair

~ all salon services

Water and pH
Ion ~ an atom or molecule

~ carries an electrical charge

Ionization

~ causes an atom to split in two

~ creates pair of ions with opposite electrical charge

Hairstraightening.net

Anion ~ ion ~ negative electrical charge Cation

~ ion
~ positive electrical charge

Acid

1 4

Water molecules ionize

Neutral

~ hydrogen ions

~ hydroxide ions

Alkaline

14

pH scale measures these ions

Hydrogen ions are acidic Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base)

www.blobs.org/science/chemistry/ph1.gif www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/.../dissociation.gif

*only products that contain water can

have a pH Add: oil and wax cannot be dissolved with water (no pH)

*pure water is neutral -equal balance of acid and alkaline

The pH Scale measures ~ acidity ~ alkalinity (base) of a substance small p =quantity

capital H =the hydrogen ion

Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen

Range from 0-14 pH of 7 is a neutral solution

Next slide:everyday foods/products

Trc.ucdavis.edu

Below 7

acidic solution

Above 7 alkaline solution

Logarithm
~ multiples of 10 pH is a Logarithmic scale Two whole numbers 10x10=100 times more acidic or alkaline

pHschool.com

Hair
Skin

pure
water

5 6 7
neutral

14

Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair Pure water ~ hair to swell as much as 20% ~ drying to the skin

Acids and Alkalis

Acids-below pH 7.0 *turns litmus paper ~ blue to red *contract and harden the hair *thioglycolic acid

~ permanent waving solution

Alkalis alkali and base ~ interchangeable *pH above 7 ~ litmus paper from red to blue *softens and swells ~ hair and skin

*sodium hydroxide (13 or higher on pH scale)

~ lye ~ very strong alkali ~ drain cleaners ~ chemical hair relaxers Determine how many times stronger sodium hydroxide is to hair.

FYI
A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair

Short processing time

Drying to the hair Can disintegrate the hair if too strong for the hairs texture

Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions acids and alkalis

~ equal proportions
~ neutralize to form water neutralizing shampoos/normalizing lotions ~ neutralize hydroxide relaxers ~ acid-alkali neutralization reaction

The pH scale page 220-222

understanding pH ~ select the proper shampoo acidic shampoo ~ 0 - 6.9

alkaline shampoo
~ pH rating of 7.1 - 14

more alkaline
~ stronger and harsher

leaves the hair

~ dry ~ brittle ~ porous ~ cause fading in color-treated hair slightly acidic shampoo

~ more closely matches the ideal pH of hair

The pH Scale
Acid: 0 6.9
Neutral: 7.0

Alkaline: 7.1 14

Project-Litmus paper test

Add to the side bar: page 221

The human body is made up of approximately 70% water and water covers almost 75% of the Earths surface

The Chemistry of Water

most abundant and important element on Earth universal solvent ~ dissolves more substances than any other solvent fresh water ~ purified by sedimentation ~ filtration chlorine is added to kill bacteria

Boiling ~ 212 degrees F destroys most microbes Distillation ~ heat water to a vapor ~ condense the purified vapor ~ collect as a liquid

Duby.unl.edu/chem

 used in the manufacturing of cosmetics Water used for: ~ shampooing ~ mixing solutions

~ many other functions

Review:

The Chemistry of Water

Purification
Sedimentation Filtration Chlorine Boiling

Distillation

classified as hard or soft

Soft water ~ rain water ~ chemically softened water ~ allows soap and shampoo to lather freely ~ preferred for shampooing

Hard water
~ contains minerals ~ reduced ability of shampoo to lather readily ~ may change the results of haircoloring services

***use demineralizing shampoo

The Chemistry of Shampoos understand

~ chemical and botanical ingredients

~ regularly found in shampoo most have these ingredients small differences

Water is the main ingredient ~ purified

~ deionized
Usually the first ingredient listed Ingredients are listed in descending order

Surfactants Second ingredient ~ surfactant

~ base detergent
~ cleansing

~ surface active agent

A surfactant molecule has two ends:

~ hydrophilic
~ water attracting head

~ lipophilic ~ oil attracting tail

Pg.com/science/haircare/hair twh 120.htm

creates a push-pull process ~ oils, dirt, and deposits ~ roll up into little balls ~ lifted off in the water

~ rinsed from the hair

Other ingredients added to surfactants ~wide variety Moisturizers Oils Proteins Preservatives Foam enhancers

Perfumes

http://www.long-healthy-hairadvisor.com/shampoo-ingredients.html

Shampoo

Types of Shampoo
shampoo product ~ most $ spent in hair care products be knowledgeable ~ products you are selling

skilled in demonstrating their use

Your credibility
~ will be in question if client is better informed than you are

shampoos for every type of hair or scalp condition ~ dry ~ fine ~ limp ~ permed ~ color-treated ~ oily ~ coarse ~ lightened ~ relaxed ~ chemically treated

~ add slight amount of color ~ cleanse build-up or mineral deposits ~ coat ~ remove coatings

List of ingredients determines: ~ shiny and manageable ~ treat a scalp or hair condition ~ prepare hair for a chemical treatment

www.discounthaircareproducts.com/.../t_296.jpg

Acid-balanced Shampoo
4.5-5.5 prevents excessive dryness hair damage during cleansing close the hair cuticle

color treated or lightened

Conditioning and Moisturizing Shampoos

make hair smooth and shiny

avoid damage to chemically treated hair

improve manageability
contains protein

Keune.com

Protein conditioners:

~ restore moisture
~ elasticity

~ strengthen the hair shaft

~ add volume ~ non-stripping

Medicated Shampoos reducing excessive dandruff

relieving other scalp conditions

some prescribed by physician very strong could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair

always read manufacturers

instructions
Healthinajiffy.co.uk

Clarifying Shampoos acid ingredient (vinegar) to cut buildup that can flatten hair increase shine used when buildup

is evident
once every two weeks

**also called kelate

shampoos
Viewpoints.com Matrixbeautiful.com

Balancing Shampoos for oily hair and scalp wash away excess oiliness prevents the hair from drying out

Southyarrahairdressingsupplies.com Amazon.com Searchfolica.com

Dry or Powder Shampoos

wet shampoo uncomfortable hard to manage use a dry or powder shampoo picks up dirt and oils

brush or comb it through the hair

adds volume

Shopaholicsdaily.com

follow manufacturers instructions

never use before a chemical service

Color-enhancing Shampoos surfactant base with basic color pigments Similar to temporary color rinses

attracted to porous hair

slight color change

removed with plain

shampooing

Beautystore.com

Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs

prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available

Add to the side bar: Liquid dry shampoos were used on hairpieces and wigs in the 1970s. It is like a dry cleaning chemical
cdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site...

Conditioners
deposit protein or moisturizers restore strength

give body
protect against possible breakage

temporary remedy
cannot heal damaged hair
Pauljulian.co.uk

minimize the damage during services restores luster shine manageability strength grows long enough to be cut off

Matrixhaircare.co.u Hair-style-secrets-revealed.com

conditioning is a must too much can lead to buildup

heavy and oily

cream rinse removes tangles conditioning treatment repairs damaged hair manufacturer recommends use (frequency)

Conditioners ~ reconstructors

~ hair masks
Hairproducts.com

1.

Rinse-out

Aurel.com davidanthonyhairstudio.com

~ rinsed out after worked through ~ detangling

2. Treatment or repair ~ deep conditioners

~10-20 minutes
~ restores protein and moisture ~ under a heated dryer for deeper penetration

Pobox.ph

3. Leave-in ~ applied, not rinsed out

Mysimon.com

Conditioners contain

~ humectants
~ absorb moisture ~ promote the retention of moisture

Silicone
~ reflects light ~ hair appears shiny

Other ingredients
~ reduce frizz

Davidanthonyhairstudio.com

~ bulk up the hair

Proteins ~ penetrate the cortex ~reinforce the hair shaft

~ can buildup
~ heavy and oily ~shampoo unnecessarily ~ strips the hair protective oils ~creating a vicious cycle so
Senseof beauty.net

Sallybeauty.com

use a gentle shampoo little conditioner

~ pass on to clients

Healthy cuticle: ~ lies down smoothly

~ reflects light
~ shiny

Conditioners smooth the cuticle ~ coat the hair shaft

to achieve the same effect

The cortex

~ 90 % of the hair strand

~ penetrated with protein conditioners ~ TEMPORARILY reconstruct the hair

Instant Conditioners remain 1-5 minutes

left in (leave-in)
improve dry, brittle hair pH of 3.5-6.0 restores the pH ~ alkaline chemical treatment

Add to the side bar in very small lettering: **more to add on next two slides Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are
common ingredients in instant

conditioners, work as pearlizing

agents with a glossy finish
This conditioner has both ingredients listed within the first 8 ingredients
naturallycurly.com

Add to side bar:

Lanolin derivatives are often included
in conditioner formulas for fine

hair because of their light

molecular weight

Add:

The size of the molecules, the distribution

of molecular weights, how much salt

the product contains, and how the

protein is hydrolized, all determine a

products effectiveness on the hair

Moisturizers heavier and creamier

10-20 minutes
more penetrating longer staying power Quaternary ammonium compounds are included to attach to hair fibers

provide longer-lasting protection

Protein Conditioners
Concentrated protein conditioners (brown liquid)

increase hair diameter

adding body

improve the tensile strength (stretching ability)

temporarily closes split ends passes through the cuticle penetrates the cortex

replaces keratin improves appearance

equalizes porosity
increases elasticity not given immediately following a chemical treatment ~ may alter the desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by perms, relaxers or haircolor

Deep Conditioning Treatments ~ hair masks

~ conditioning packs
concentrated protein ~ heavy cream base moisturizer equal degree of moisturizing and protein

www.girlznight.co.uk/.../matrix/mtt18_b.jpg

Other Conditioning Agents *Spray-on thermal protectors

~ applied to hair prior to any thermal (heat) service

*Scalp conditioners ~ cream base ~ soften and improve the
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shop.harveynichols.com/.../xlarge/282095_1.jpg

health of the scalp

*Medicated Scalp Lotions

~ promotes healing Add: control dandruff *Scalp Astringent Lotions ~ remove oil accumulation ~ after scalp treatment ~ before styling
www.atmedica.com.sg/images/product_04.jpg www.strawberrynet.com/.../03335776701.jpg

Add to the side bar: Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor Color rinses add temporary color to the hair

www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou...

Brushing the Hair

Correct hair brushing: 1. Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp 2. Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup from the hair 3. Gives hair added shine Include before every shampoo and scalp treatment

Two exceptions to HAIR brushing:

Do not brush before a chemical service

Do not brush if the scalp is irritated

NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging the scalp prior to: ~ single-process and double-process haircolor ~ highlighting

~ most chemical relaxers (FMD)

~ some temporary rinses ~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD) * shampoo prior to permanent wave

if recommended, shampoo gently never use a comb to loosen scales from the scalp Add: *can tear off and cause bleeding *heavy buildup, not flakes from scalp treatment use natural bristles

~ have many overlapping layers

~ cleans and add luster to the hair

Scalp Massage
healthy scalp ~ cleanliness ~ stimulation scalp massage ~ once a week for a normal scalp

media.lvrj.com/images/2785958.jpg

more frequently ~ scalp disorders are present

~ conjunction with treatment by a dermatologist

performed prior to a shampoo extra service=clients come back

Knowing the location of: ~ muscles

~ blood vessels
~ nerve points scalp and neck
www.bartleby.com/107/Images/small/image378.jpg

~ areas that benefit from massage movements

With each massage movement

~ place the hands under the hair ~ use length of the fingers

~ balls of the fingertips

~ cushions of the palms
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~ stimulate the
muscles, nerves, and blood vessels of the scalp area

Shampoo Procedures Good posture

~ protect against muscle aches

~ back strain ~ discomfort ~ fatigue ~ other physical problems that can result from performing shampoos

Flickr.com Agendamag.com Zero-flex.com

Correct posture ~ maintain an attractive image ~ always keep your shoulders back ~ avoid slumping over the client ~ hold abdomen in

Free-standing shampoo bowls ~ allow for healthier body alignment ~ help reduce strain on the back and shoulders

Voip-forum.tmcnet.com

Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair drier and more fragile use a mild shampoo tends to tangle

use wide-toothed comb ~ gently remove tangles

~ beginning at the nape

~ work your way up use a conditioner if necessary relaxed or straightened hair needs moisturizing before drying

Applying Dry Shampoos

follow manufacturers directions

apply scalp to the ends natural bristle brush ~ remove oil and dirt

Shampooing Clients With Special Needs disabilities or wheelchair ~ will tell you how they prefer to be shampooed Options: ~ facing the shampoo bowl ~ bending forward ~ towel to protect their face

some will arrive freshly shampooed others need a dry shampoo always ask about their preferences make their comfort and safety a priority