Textile Materials

University of Textiles & Clothing

Jiangnan University
Bilingual Lesson
Objectives
2
To understand properties of textile fibers
To enlarge vocabulary of textile fibers
To keep up with advance in textile fibers
To grasp basic theory related to textile fibers
Course Syllabus
Textbook
Zhang haiquan, Textile Materials, 2007
Reference book

3
Grading

4
Grade
Attendance 5%
Homework 10%
Final exam 85%
Topical Outline -1
5
Introduction to Textile Fibers 1
Natural Cellulosic Fibers 2
Natural Protein Fibers 3
Regenerated Fibers 4




Topical Outline -2
6
Synthetic Fibers 5
Absorption of Textile Fibers 6
Other properties of Textile Fibers 7

1 Introduction to Textile Fibers
What is a fiber
Large L/D
Small ; flexible
Textile Fiber
Length > 12.5 mm
Strong ; processed







Fiber Yarn Textile
7
1.1 Classification of Textile Fibers

8
Cellulosic fibers
Protein fibers
Mineral fibers
Regenerated fibers
Synthetic fibers
Mineral fibers
Man-made fiber
Nature
fiber
Man-made
fiber
1.1.1 Natural cellulosic fibers
Seed fibers:

Bast fibers:

Leaf fibers:

Nut fibers:
9
cotton, kapok
jute, hemp, ramie, flax
Agave , pineapple, abaca
Coir




1.1.2 Protein fibers
Animal-hair fibers:


Animal secretion:

10
wool, specialty hair, fur fibers
silk, spider silk

1.1.3 Mineral fiber
Asbestos
11
A group of minerals
Heat, electricity and chemical
damage resistance; sound absorption
Highly toxic mesothelioma and
asbestosis.



1.1.4 Regenerated Fibers
Regenerated cellulosic fibers
Tencel
Modal
PLA
Regenerated protein fibers
Soybean fiber
Milk fiber


12





1.1.5 Synthetic Fibers
Name Year Company
Nylon
1938 Du pont
Acrylic fiber
1950 E.I. Du Pont
Polyolefin/
polypropylene
1959
Hercules
Incorporated
Spandex
1961 E. I. Du Pont
13




1.1.6 Fineness of Fiber
Gravimetric (Direct system)
Tex: Mass in grams of 1000 m of fiber
Denier: Mass in grams of 9000 m of fiber
Metric count Ne (Indirect system):
The length of meters per gram.
14
1.1.7 Yarn Number System

15
Direct system
Tex
Indirect system
Den(ier)
Imp. count
Metric count
1000m
9000m
1g
1840
1.2 Fiber polymer
Polymerization


Degree of polymerization
Average molecular weight of polymer
=
Molecular weight of thr repeating unit in the polymer
16

1.2.1 Types of Polymer

17
Homopolymer
Copolymer





1.2.2 Interpolymer Forces of Attraction
Van der Waals forces
Hydrogen bonds
Alt linkages
Cross-links

18
1.3 Fiber Properties
19
Fiber properties
Physical
Mechanical
Chemical
1.3.1 Physical Properties

20
Color
Luster
Shape
White or colorless
fibers and filaments
are preferred.
Varied in fibers
Be examined both
in cross section and
in its longitudinal.
1.3.2 Mechanical Properties

21
Mechanical
Properties
Tensile Flexibility

Abrasion Resiliency

Pilling

Tenacity


1.3.3 Chemical Properties
Absorbency
Effect of Heat
Flammability
Chemical Reactivity and Resistance

22
2 Natural Cellulosic fibers

23
Stem
Natural Cellulosic fibers
Leaf Seed
flax
hemp
jute
ramie
sisal
abaca
cotton
kapok








2.1 Introduction

24
Relatively high density
Good conductor of heat and electricity
Tend to burn easily
Good resistance to alkalis
Insects do not attack cellulosic fibers
2.2 Cotton

25
Most widely used
Cotton
Grow in 80 countries
Ideal for textiles
Favorable personal
care items
2.2.1 Cotton classification

26
Breed Process Luster
Upland
Island
Asian
African
roller ginned
saw ginned
White
Yellow
Grey
2.2.2 Cotton Fiber Morphology

27

Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
Kidney-shaped Convolution
2.2.3 Structure of Cotton Fiber
28
Cuticle
Primary
wall
Secondary
wall
Lumen

2.2.4 Polymer System

29
Linear cellulose polymer
Polymer
System
DP = 5000
Crystallinity = 65-70%
(C
6
H
10
O
5
)
n

2.2.5 Chemical Properties

30
Weakened and destroyed by acids
Resistant to alkalis
Relatively unaffected by laundering
2.2.6 Physical Properties

31
Relatively inelastic
Physical
Properties
Very absorbent
Conduct heat energy

2.2.7 Growth and Production
32
Preparation
Planting
Crop
Harvesting
Ginning

33
2.3 Bast fibers
Be collected from Phloem (the "inner bark"
or the skin) or bast surrounding the stem
of a certain, mainly dicotyledonic plants.
34
Bast fiber
Flax
Ramie
Jute
Hemp
2.3.1 Flax Fiber

35
Cellulose
Flax fiber
Bast
Multi-cellular Density = 1.50 g/cm
3
2.3.1 Flax Fiber Morphology

36
Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
Polygonal Nodes
2.3.2 Polymer System

37
Cellulose polymer
Polymer
System
DP = 18000
Crystallinity > 70%
2.3.3 Physical Properties

38
Very inelastic
Physical
Properties
Very absorbent
Best heat resistance
Very strong
2.3.4 Chemical Properties

39
Weakened and destroyed by acids
Resistant to alkalis
Relatively unaffected by laundering
Not mercerized

2.3.5 Processing of Flax

40
Pulling
Retting
Breaking
Hackling
Spinning

3 Natural Protein Fibers

41
Hair
Natural protein fibers
Secretion
wool
cashmere
mohair
rabbit hair
silk
tussah silk
spider silk







3.1 Introduction

42
Be obtained from animal sources
Excellent moisture absorbency
Poor resistance to alkalis
Good resiliency and elastic recovery
3.2 Wool

43
Wlna, wullo, wull
Wool
fleece of sheep
medium weight
multi-cellular
staple fiber
3.2.1 Fiber Morphology

44
Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
oval over-lapping scale
3.2.2 Felting of Wool


45

High resilience
Scales
Directional
friction
Felting
Wet and heat
Dimensional
stability
Warm ,soft


3.2.3 The Polymer System

46
Linear, keratin polymer
has a helical configuration
Unit of wool polymer is amino acid
3.2.4 Structure of Wool
Wool fiber is composed of surface scale,
cortex and medulla layer.
47
3.2.5 Chemical Properties

48
Resistant to acids
Dissolve readily in alkaline solutions
Yellow in sun and weather
Easy to dye
3.2.6 Physical Properties

49
weak
Physical
properties
very absorbent
low heat resistance

excellent resilience
3.3 Specialty hairs
Mohair
Cashmere
Camel Hair
Alpaca
Llama
Vicuna

50






3.3.1 Mohair
Mohair refers to the hair of
Angora goat.
Mohair fiber is approximately
25-45m in diameter. It is
both durable and resilient. It
is notable for its high luster.
51
3.3.2 Cashmere
Cashmere is a type of fiber
obtained from the Cashmere
goat, or Pashmina.
cashmere fiber is highly
adaptable.
Cashmere is similar to wool
in most properties.
52
3.3.3 Camel Hair
Camel-hair are both light in
weight and warm; they have a
distinctive golden brown colour
with a pleasing lustre. The
fabrics are soft, comfortable, and
good wearing, and they drape
attractively.
53
3.3.4 Alpaca
Alpaca offers excellent warmth and
insulation. The fibres are strong and glossy
and make fabrics similar in appearance to
mohair.
54
3.3.6 Llama
Llama fibre is soft, strong,
and relatively uniform in
length and diameter but
somewhat weaker than
alpaca or camel hair.
55
3.3.7 Vicuna
Vicuna is one of the
softest fibres in the world.
It is fine and lustrous, has
a lovely cinnamon brown
or light tan colour, and is
strong enough to make
very desirable fabrics. It is
also very light in weight
and very warm.
56
3.4 Silk

57
secretion of silkworm
Silk
medium weight
density
1.34 g/cm
3
3.4.1 Fiber Morphology

58
Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
rounded triangle smooth
3.4.2 Polymer System

59
linear fibroin polymer
sixteen different amino acids
not contain sulphur
only in beta-configuration


3.4.3 Chemical Properties

60
More readily affected by acids
Swell in alkaline solutions
Be affected by bleaches
Resistance to sunlight is poor
Compared with wool
3.4.4 Physical Properties

61
strong
Physical
Properties
more sensitive to heat
more plastic than elastic
3.4.5 Silk Production
62
4 Regenerated Fibers

63
Natural material
Dissolve
Extrude
Wood, cotton
Regenerated fibre
Viscose, acetate, triacetate
4.1 Viscose Fibres
64
viscose
rayon
cellophane
viscose fibre
Viscose process was discovered and patented
in 1891 by C. F. Cross and E. J. Bevan.
4.1.1 Manufacture
pulp
alkali cellulose
xanthate cellulose
viscose
viscose filaments
65


4.1.2 Modified Viscose Fibres

66
HVM rayon
modified rayon
HT rayon
high wet modulus
HWS rayon
high wet strength High tenacity
4.1.3 Polymer System

67
cellulose polymer
Polymer
system
amorphous 65-60%
crystallinity 35-40%

68

4.1.4 Physical Properties

70
weak
Physical
properties
most absorbent
low heat resistance
limp
4.1.5 Chemical Properties

71
similar to cotton
sensitivity to acid, alkali, bleach, sunlight
color more brightly
4.2 Acetate and Triacetate

72
Cellulose
Acetate
Triacetate



acetylize
textile
filtration
4.2.1 Structures
73
DP= 250-300
Structures
Skin-core structure
Cross-section: lobed
4.2.2 Properties

74
Acetate Triacetate
hydrophilic
thermoplastic
hydrophobic
high crystallinity
Wrinkle easily in hot water
Swells in water
Resist to weak alkali and acids

5 Synthetic Fibers

75
coal natural gas petroleum
extrusion
spinnerets
Synthetic Fibers
5.0 Types of spinning methods

76
melt polymer to a
viscosity suitable for
extrusion
polymer solution is
extruded into gas or
vapor
Melt
Spinning
Dry Solvent
Spinning
Wet Solvent
Spinning
Polymer solution is
extruded into a
precipitation bath



5.1 Nylon

77
February 28, 1935
Wallace Carothers
Nylon
thermoplastic
silky material
polyamides
DuPont


78
5.1.1 Types

79
mostly
small amount
Nylon 6
Nylon 6,6
Nylon 3, Nylon 4, Nylon 5,
Nylon 7, Nylon 8, Nylon 12,
Nylon 4,6, Nylon 6,10
5.1.2 Structures

80
linear zigzag molecules
structures
crystallinity:65~86% H-bond
amide group

5.1.3 Properties
Tenacity: high due to high orientation and
crystallinity
Elongation: high due to zigzag structure
Recovery: high due to zigzag
Energy of rupture: high due to high tenacity and
high elongation.
Abrasion resistance: high
Water absorption: highest among all synthetic
fibers
81
5.1.3 Properties

82
high tenacity
high elongation
high recovery
high abrasion resistance
highest water absorption
5.2 Polyester

83
DuPont, 1945
Polyester
versatility
Dacron, Tetoron
Terelenka, Lavsan
the largest volume

5.2.2 Types

84
Polyethylene terephthalate
Polybutylene terephthalate
PET
PBT
PTT Polybutylene terephthalate




5.2.3 Fiber Morphology

85
Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
5.2.4 Structures

86
DP =115-140
structures
crystallinity: 35%
even diameter
very oriented
5.2.5 Properties

87
high tenacity
high failure elongation
low compressional resilience
very low moisture regain
high electrical resistivity
5.2.6 Modification

88
High tenacity
higher crystallinity
and DP
Sheath-core

polyester core, low
melt polymer sheath
Coolmax
hydrophilic treated
Wicking

5.3 Acrylic

89
1950, DuPont
Acrylic
synthetic wool Perlon, Orlon

5.3.1 Polymerization
Addition or chain growth
Homopolymer: polyarylonitrile strong but
compact and highly oriented
virtually impossible to dye
Copolymers: other types of monomers are
included for a dyeable fiber and easier to
process:
e.g. acrylic acid and vinylpyrrolidone
most acrylic fibers are copolymers
90
5.3.2 Fiber Morphology
Cross-section
Longitudinal
section
5.3.3 Properties

92
medium tenacity
medium failure strain
high elastic recovery
moderate abrasion resistance
5.4 Elastomeric

93
polyurethane-based
Elastomeric
lightest apparel fibre
H
2
NCONH
2


5.4.1 Fibre Morphology
Longitudinal appearance has distinct
striations and specks.
Cross-section of fiber has the dump-bell or
dog-bone shape
94
5.4.2 Polymer System
Two types of elastomeric polymers are
synthesized. Each is extruded into
filaments with excellent elastic properties
but differing in their resistance to alkalis.
The polyether type (for example Lycra)
resistant to alkalis
The polymer type (for example, Vyrene)
95
5.4.3 Physical Properties

96
weak tenacity
excellent recovery
hydrophobic
thermo-plastic
5.4.4 Chemical properties
Effect of acids: Elastomeric textile material
in general are resistant to acids.
Effect of alkalis: The elastomeric is
sensitive to alkalis.
Colour-fastness: Elastomeric textile
material tend to be difficult to dye owing
to the hydrophobic and very crystalline
nature of their polymer system.



97
5.4.4 Chemical Properties

98
resistant to acids
Chemical
properties
difficult to dye
sensitive to alkalis
6.1 Introduction of Absorption
Adsorption in a non-swelling medium, for
example, the adsorption of gases on
charcoal, is a comparatively simple
process, but the absorption of water by
fibers is an example of a process that
comes midway between these two and
partakes of some features of each.

99

6.2 Equilibrium
When a textile material is placed in a
given atmosphere, it takes up or loses
water at a gradually decreasing rate until
it reaches equilibrium, when no further
change takes place. This is a dynamic
equilibrium.
100
6.3 Regain and relative humidity
Relative humidity(RH)=
p(H
2
O)Partial pressure of water vapor
p*(H
2
O)Saturation vapor pressure

Regain
G Mass of undried specimen
G
0
Mass of dried specimen



2
*
2
(H O)
100%
(H O)
p
p

0
0
100%
G G
W
G

=
101
6.3 Regain and relative humidity

102
0
0
100%
G G
W
G

=
2
2
(H O)
*
(H O)
100%
p
p

6.4 Theories of moisture sorption
Sorption refers to the action of either
absorption or adsorption. As such it is the
effect of gases or liquids being
incorporated into a material of a different
state and adhering to the surface of
another molecule.
103
6.4.1 The effect of hydrophilic groups
As absorption, we take account of interac-
tion between water molecules and molec-
ules of the fiber. All the natural animal
and vegetable fibers have groups in their
molecules that attract water, such as NH
2
,
CONH, OH, COOH.
104
6.4.2 Directly and Indirectly Attached Water
The first water molecules are absorbed
directly onto hydrophilic groups, but, for
the others: They may be attracted to other
hydrophilic groups, or they may form
further layers on top of water molecules.
H
2
O H
2
O H
2
O
H
2
O H
2
O H
2
O
Fiber
Direct
Indirect
H
2
O H
2
O
105
6.4.3 Absorption in crystalline regions
In crystalline region, the fiber molecules
are closely packed together in a regular
pattern. Thus it will not be easy for water
molecules to penetrate into a crystalline
region, and, for absorption to take place,
the active groups would have to be freed
by t he br e a ki ng of c r os s - l i nks .
106
7 Other Properties of Textile Fibers

107
Thermal
Electric
Optical
Performance of
processing and
usage of textile
fibers



7.1 Thermal properties
Thermal conductivity is a property of
materials that express the heat flux(W/m
2
)
that will flow through the material if a
certain temperature gradient DT(K/m)
exists over the material.

Fiber material Thermal conductivity[mW/(m.k]
Cotton 71
Wool 54
Silk 50
108
7.1.1 Specific Heat Capacity
109
Q
C
m T
=
A
Specific heat capacity
(J/(g)
Heat, J
Temperature() Mass(g)
moisture
temperature
fiber structure
C
7.1.2 Coefficient of Heat Conductivity
110
Q d
T t s

=
A
Coefficient of heat
conductivity
(W/(m) Conduction surface
m
2

Temperature difference
()
Heat, (J Thickness, (m
Time, (t
7.2 Optical properties
When light falls on a fiber, it may be partly
transmitted, absorbed or reflected.
Refractive index n
iso
of an isotropic fiber is
given by the mean of the refractive indices
of an oriented fiber in 3 directions:

Polarized parallel to fiber axis
Polarized perpendicular to fiber axis


1/ 3( 2 )
iso
n n n

= +
n
n

111
7.2 Optical Properties

112
Optical
properties
luster
reflection
refraction
transmission
light
degradation
resistance
7.2.1 Luster
113
Light on collection of fibers
Laminate structure
Longitudinal morpha
Cross-sectional shape
Luster
7.2.2 Birefringence
Birefringence, or double refraction, is the
decomposition of a ray of light into the
ordinary ray and the extraordinary ray
when it passes through certain types of
material.
114
n n n

A =
P
Birefringence index
Refractive index for light polarized parallel
(perpendicular)to the fiber axis.
7.3 Electric properties
The electronic properties of fibers are of
less importance than the mechanical
properties.

115
electric
conduction
dielectric
static electricity
7.3.1 Electric Conduction
116
Surface
resistivity

Volume
resistivity

Mass
resistivity

Fiber
Cotton 6.8
Ramie 7.5
Silk 9.8
Wool 8.4
Viscose 7.0
Fiber
Polyamide 9-12
Acetate 11.7
Acrylic 8.7
Polyester 8.0
lg
m
lg
m

7.3.2 Dielectric
117
Fiber is dielectric material.
0
r
C
C
c =