NIFT

About 65- 70% cost of the garment is the cost of the fabric.
Cost Of Fabric
Administrative Expences 7% Utility Cost 4% Depriciation Cost 7%

COST OF FABRIC
Raw material 66%

Size & chemical 8%

Wages & Salaries 8%

MATERIAL COST

VALUE ADDED COST

YARN

Count of the Yarn -finer the yarn, more expensive.

Carded or Combed Yarn more expensive than carded yarns

Combed yarns have more luster and strength than carded yarns
All finer counts above 40s are generally combed yarns. Method of spinning-open-end or ring spun. Open end yarns are cheaper as the cost of manufacturing is less. It is used for coarser yarn count below 20s. The cost of man-made spun yarns will depend on the fineness - finer the yarn, more expensive it is. Number of fine filaments used in making the yarn will also affect the cost. Bright or Dull -Bright yarns are more expensive than dull. Textured yarns are more expensive than flat because of the additional process cost.

The quality of mill-made fabrics is better than power loom made fabrics in terms of yarn quality.

 GSM
EPI

of the Fabric
(PPI*0.6)/count of warp

& PPI Construction of the Fabric Inversely proportional to the count of the yarn
For

the same variety of the fabric, as the GSM increases the cost increases.

GSM

(EPI*0.6)/count of weft

 Production

cost or cost of weaving process

It includes machine running cost, maintenance, labor cost, power & fuel, etc. The weaving cost is affected by the beam size - if the beam is small in length, the cost will be more as beam gaiting and knotting will add to the cost.

Weaving

cost

weaving cost is expressed as paisa/pick/inch/sq mt

for rapier loom for plain weave 40" width fabrics = 8 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt For twill weave, satin weave, dobby the cost = 12 paisa/pick/ inch/sq mt. For 2400 hook jacquard, the cost = 40 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. For double beam fabrics like seer sucker, the cost is = 20 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt.

 Wastage

and shrinkage
of 2-3% in warping and weaving and shrinkage of 1-

Wastage

1.5% from loom to grey folding stage is included in the weaving cost.
About

92% of the fabric produced is sold as fresh. The value

loss is about 7% while running cotton material but is only 3% in

using polyester yarn.

 Sizing
The

and chemical cost

sizing cost depends upon the count of the yarns. The count becomes finer the size and chemical cost increases as a rich solution, better quality of size and chemicals is required for better strength.

Dying

cost
on the length of fabric

Depend Shade Color Quality

Weight

of the fabric

 Metamerism
Some

colors change their shade in different lights. If the shades are matched in two or three lights only then the cost is less but, when the matching is required in all the six lights no metamerism is required, then better quality dyes are required and the cost is more.

FINISHING
If

COST

softeners are added in the jigger after dyeing, then the cost is Rs.10/kg whereas if it is done on a separate machine and later stentering is done then the cost is Rs.20/kg. The quality of fabric is better in second case as the cover is better and there is no shrinkage later.

 Sewing

Thread

Normally used 100% spun polyester thread, 100% cotton thread, Filament thread. 50/2 is the most common count sewing thread normally. 40/2 & 40/3 count sewing thread used for heavy garment. The price of 40/2 yarn is higher than 50/2. Polished threads smooth surface, round shape, higher stiffness, extra tensile strength. Rayon, Nylon, Metallic threads are used according to the need

Thread only makes up a small percent of the total cost of a sewn product, but shares 50% of the responsibility of the seam.

 Zippers

Zipper

Cost depends on 3 major parts -Tape, Teeth (elements) and Slider. Teeth - Nylon Teeth, vislone teeth, metal teeth etc. Tooth size - the smaller the number the smaller the tooth size: i.e. #5 is smaller than #10 and thus not as strong. Color - Tape color, Teeth color. Function - Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper, reversible, Open end (O/E), Close End (C/E) etc. Length - As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc. 1-way Separating Zipper 2-way Separating Zipper Non - Separating Zipper Pocket Zipper Lengths Double Pull - 2-way Separating Zipper Lengths

type

Coil zipper is more flexible and smoother running than tooth zippers.

 Laces
Cost

of Laces depend on fabric and design of laces

Beaded

Lace, Chemical Lace, Cotton Lace, Crochet Laces, Decorative Lace, Designer Laces, Elastic Laces, Embroidered Laces, Fancy Border, Fancy Laces, Garment Laces, Handmade Lace, Lycra Lace, Nylon Laces, Rayon Lace, Velvet Lace, White Lace, Zari Laces

 Button

Buttons can be fascinating, functional, and fashionable. Costs affected factors Materials, sizes, shapes, colors, and designs. Material- plastic buttons, natural materials like bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, wood and synthetic materials such as celluloid, glass, metal and bakelite. Wooden Button- to stain, seal and polish wooden buttons. Coconut Buttons-Light, strong and rustic. Shell Buttons - Delicate and elegant Leather Buttons - Soft and durable, Corozo Buttons - 100% natural vegetable material made from the nut of a palm tree, highly durable and crack resistant.

Clothing Label Clothing labels are of various types of materials, both synthetic and natural fibers. The yarns used in synthetic fibers are gauged in terms of thickness of denier yarns or

DTEX. Some yarns have a thicker gauge than others.

Woven Labels. Embroidered Labels. Leather Labels. PVC/Rubber Labels. Printed Labels

Snap Fasteners

Use of plastic snap fasteners are rapidly increasing for baby clothing and other types of

garments.
Material use : polyester Use of recycle ecology type snaps softer touch to skin No fear of nickel allergy Electric conductivity proof Free from rust

Interlining Woven Interlinings used in light weight fabrics Knitted Interlinings used in knit garments with stretchable fused Non-woven Interlines 100% polyamide products with ultra fine coating to heavier blends Water Repellent Interlines Thermal bonded non-woven and circular knits Embroidery backings

Types Soft Stretch Baby Elastic Knit PolyesterPolyester Waistband Polyester Lingerie Heavy Stretch:

Fiber Content 67% Acetate 33% Rubber

Uses For Waistbands, Sleeves, Necklines, And Leg Bands. Good For Wash/Wear Garments, Swimwear, As Well As Garments That Must Be Dry Cleaned. Soft Stretch And Texture Make It comfortable to Wear Against Skin. For Panties, Slips, And Body Suits. Good for using as an "exposed" waistband on a gathered skirt or pants. Good for swimwear. For waistbands, sleeves, necklines, and leg bands.

56% Polyester 44% Rubber 91% Polyester 09% Rubber 57% Polyester 43% Rubber 65% polyester 35% rubber

Cotton Braided:

73% cotton 27% rubber

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