EVALUATION OF FABRIC AND APPAREL FINISHES

2 5 TH A P R I L 2 0 1 3

Presented by :

SUPRIYA NANDA
(Roll no. 25)

YASHASVI SHAILLY
(Roll no. 28)

TEXTILE TESTING
Textile testing as a whole refers to the vigorous testing done on textile materials which may be inside the laboratory as well as natural setting or in day-to-day uses, using various testing acids, equipment, simple as well as sophisticated technical instruments by use of different chemicals and reagents in different physical, physiological and environmental conditions upon various natural biological mineral elements and resources under different reactive and nonreactive situations for the development of textile industry for effective and satisfied textile consumer ship.

OBJECTIVES OF TESTING
Research

Selection of raw materials

Process-control

Product development
Product testing

NEEDS OF TEXTILE TESTING

CHECKING RAW MATERIALS
MONITORING PRODUCTION ASSESSING THE FINAL PRODUCT INVESTIGATION OF FAULTY MATERIAL

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND RESEARCH

STANDARDS IN TESTING
According to ISO, standards are documented agreements containing technical specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently as rules, guidelines or definitions of characteristics, to ensure that materials, products, processes and services are fit for their purpose. LEVEL OF STANDERDS COMPANY STANDERDS INDUSTRY STANDERDS GOVERENMENT STANDERDS

FULL CONSENSUS STANDERDS

STANDARDIZING ORGANIZATIONS
AATCC-American Colorists Association of Textiles Chemists and

ASTM-American Society for Testing and Materials ANSI-American National Standards Institute BSI-British Standards Institution BIS-Bureau of Indian Standards

STANDARDS CONDITIONS FOR TESTING

Under normal conditions, the amount of moisture in the air is continuously changing. This results in varying amount of moisture contained by a hygroscopic material exposed to the atmosphere, which will result in a change in the physical properties of this material. Therefore, in order that reliable comparisons be made among different textile materials and products and among different laboratories, it is necessary to standardize the humidity and temperature conditions to which the textile materials or product is subjected prior to and during testing. Such conditions are 65+ 2% relative humidity and 21+1 C. If the testing is not done under standard atmospheric conditions, then this should be clearly stated in the test and report, and the relative humidity and temperature at which the testing was done should be mentioned.

TESTING OF FABRIC FINISHES

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TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES

AATCC Test Method 90-2011

(Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials: Agar Plate Method)

The objective is to qualitatively detect bacteriostatic activity on products that are treated with antimicrobials and are capable of producing a zone of inhabitation.

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AATCC Test Method 147-2011 (Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method) The Parallel Streak Method has filled a need for a relatively quick and easily executed qualitative method to determine antibacterial activity of diffusible antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials.

The Parallel Streak Method has proven effective over a number of years of use in providing evidence of antibacterial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.

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AATCC Test Method 30-2004

(Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textile Materials) Developed in 1946 by AATCC Committee RA31 The two purposes of this test method are to determine the susceptibility of the textile materials to mildew and rot and to evaluate the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.

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AATCC Test Method 103-2009

(Bacterial Alpha-Amylase Enzymes used in Desizing) Developed in 1962 by AATCC Committee RA41; Jurisdiction transferred to RA34 in 1987 and returned to RA41 in 1993. This test method is intended for the assay of bacterial amylases employed commercially for textile desizing. It is not applicable to products which contain beta-amylase in addition to alpha-amylase.

Principle: Dextrogenic amylase activity is measured in terms of digestion time required to produce a color change denoting a definite stage of dextrinization of the starch substrate. The amylase content of the sample, expressed in Bacterial Amylase Units (BAU), is readily calculated from the dextrinizing time.

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ASTM D1909 - 04(2012) Standard Table of Commercial Moisture Regains for Textile Fibers The value listed for the commercial moisture regain of a specific fiber type is not an experimentally determined quantity but a purely arbitrary value arrived at for commercial purposes by interested parties. The actual moisture regain values of textile materials, when in moisture equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for testing, bear no consistent relation to the commercial moisture regain values listed herein.

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TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON COLORFASTNESS

AATCC Test Method 173-2009 (CMC: Calculation of Small Color Differences for Acceptability) Developed in 1989 by AATCC Committee RA36 The CMC (l:c) formula is a modification of the corresponding CIELAB color-difference formula. It has color-difference symbol Decmc. The CMC (l:c) formula retains, in modified form, the partitioning of overall color difference into differences in lightness, chroma, and hue components which is present in the CIELAB color-difference formula.

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AATCC Test Method 6-2011

(Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis) Developed in 1925 by AATCC Committee RR1 Test specimens are evaluated for resistance to simulated action of acid fumes, sizes, alkaline sizes, alkaline cleansing agents and alkaline street dirt. These test methods are applicable to textiles made from all fibers in the form of yarns or fabrics, whether dyed, printed or otherwise colored. Principle: The specimens are steeped in or spotted with the required solutions by means of simple laboratory equipment. The tested specimens are examined for changes in color.

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AATCC Test Method 132-2009 (Colorfastness to Dry cleaning) Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee RA43 This test method is intended for determining the colorfastness of textiles to all kinds to drycleaning. The test method is neither suitable for the evaluation of the durability of textile finishes, nor is it intended for use in evaluating the resistance of colors to spot and stain removal procedures used by the drycleaner. This test method gives an indication of results to be obtained from three commercial dry cleanings. Principle: A specimen of the textile in contact with cotton fabric, multi fiber swatch and no corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene and then dried in air. Any change in color of the specimen is then assessed with the Standard Gray Scale for Color Change. Any staining is assessed by using the Gray Scale for Staining or the Chromatic Transference Scale.

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AATCC Test Method 190-2010 (Colorfastness to Home Laundering with Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent: Accelerated) Developed in 2001 by AATCC Committee RA60 This test method is a diagnostic test intended to screen dyed cotton textiles sensitive to oxygen bleach detergents. This procedure is most appropriately used during the dye selection process, prior to the production of washable textiles. This method does not reflect the contribution to shade change of optical brighteners, which are present in some commercial washing products, or finishes that may be applied to the textile during production. Principle: A specimen of the dyed textile is laundered, rinsed, and dried. Specimens are tested under defined conditions of temperature, bleach concentration and time to assess whether fading will occur after multiple home launderings. The color difference between the test specimen and the original textile is assessed instrumentally or visually.

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AATCC Test Method 16.1 (Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor) Developed in 2012 by AATCC Committee RA50 This test method provides the general principles and procedures for determining the colorfastness to light of textile materials outdoors under glass. The test options described are applicable to textile materials of all kinds and for colorants, finishes and treatments applied to textile materials.

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TESTING OF TEXTILE FINISHES BASED ON PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

AATCC Test Method 191-2009 (Acid Cellulase Enzymes: Top Loading Washer) Developed in 2002 by AATCC Committee RA41 This test methods provides a simple testing procedure to evaluate the effect of acid cellulase enzymes on cellulosic by laundering. Principle: This test method determines the reaction of cellulosic fabrics to treatment with acid cellulase enzymes. Such treatment usually result in improvements in the hand, drape, fuzz and pill appearance of cellulosic fabrics together with the removal of linters and immature/dead cotton fibers. The agitation in the washer simulates the action in rotary drum machines, paddle machines and jets.

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AATCC Test Method 114-2011

(Chlorine Retained, Tensile Loss: Multiple Sample Method) Developed in 1965 by AATCC Committee RR35 This test method is a simplified procedure for testing multiple samples to determine the potential damage that may be caused by chlorine bleaching. Principle: The samples are chlorine bleached in a domestic-type laundry machine, rinsed, dried and pressed between hot metal plates. The damaging action of the retained chlorine is calculated from the difference in tensile strength before and after pressing.

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AATCC Test Method 130-2010 (Stain Release: Oily Stain Release Method) Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee RA56 This test method is designed to measure the ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering. This test method is primarily for use by fabric finishers to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual use.

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 If this test method is used as part of a contract between buyer and seller, or in any case where comparisons between laboratories are being made, the parties should agree to use the same ballast and detergent. In referee situations, or where standard specifications are involved, 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent should be used. The use of this test on garments is not precluded. Principle: A stain is applied to a test specimen. An amount of the staining substance is forced into the fabric by using a specified weight. The stained fabric is then laundered in a prescribed manner and the residual stain rated on a scale from 5 to 1 by comparison with a stain release replica showing a graduated series of stains.

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AATCC Test Method 66-2008 (Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle Method)

Developed in 1951 by AATCC Committee RR6; jurisdiction transferred to Committee RA61 in 1995 This test method is used to determine the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics. It is applicable to fabrics made from any fiber, or combination of fibers. Principle: A test specimen is folded and compressed under controlled conditions of time and force to create a folded wrinkle. The test specimen is then suspended in a test instrument for a controlled recovery period, after which the recovery angle is recorded.

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TESTING OF APPAREL FINISHES

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AATCC Test Method 125-2009 (Colorfastness to Perspiration ) Developed in 1967 by AATCC Committee RA23; jurisdiction transferred to Committee RA50 in 1996 This purpose of this test method is to determine the effect of the combination of perspiration solution and light exposure on the colorfastness of a colored textile specimen. Therefore, only perspiration solutions will be used in this procedure. Principle: A colored test specimen is immersed in a perspiration test solution for a specified period of time and immediately exposed to light in a fading apparatus for a specified period of time.

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AATCC Test Method 157-2010 (Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting: Perchloroethylene) Developed in 1978 by AATCC Committee RR92 This test method is designed to measure the degree of color migration that occurs when a fabric is spotted with a drycleaning solvent. Perchloroethylene is used because it is a common drycleaning solvent. Principle: A specimen, attached to a piece of white blotting paper, is placed specimen side up on a glass plate. Perchloroethylene is placed on the center of the specimen. The test is carried out at room temperature. The staining of the blotting paper is evaluated.

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AATCC Test Method 104-2010

(Colorfastness to Water Spotting) Developed in 1962 by AATCC Committee RA23 This test method is designed to evaluate the resistance to water spotting of dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile fabrics. The test method does not determine whether the discoloration is removable.

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AATCC Test Method 140-2011 (Dye and Pigment Migration in a Pad-Dry Process) Developed in 1974 by AATCC Committee RA87 This test method provides a means of assessing the migration propensity of a pad liquor system containing dyes or pigments, subsequently referred to as colorants, and which may also contain different types and amounts of migration inhibitors. When drying conditions are not constant and/or uniform, uneven migration may occur, causing shade variations during a run, or shade differences between the face and back, or between side and center of the fabric.

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AATCC Test Method 191-2009 (Acid Cellulase Enzymes: Top Loading Washer) Developed in 2002 by AATCC Committee RA41 This test methods provides a simple testing procedure to evaluate the effect of acid cellulase enzymes on cellulosics by laundering. Principle: This test method determines the reaction of cellulosic fabrics to treatment with acid cellulase enzymes. Such treatment usually result in improvements in the hand, drape, fuzz and pill appearance of cellulosic fabrics together with the removal of linters and immature/dead cotton fibers. The agitation in the washer simulates the action in rotary drum machines, paddle machines and jets.

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AATCC Test Method 143-2011

(Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home Laundering)
Developed in 1975 by AATCC Committee RA61 This test method is designed for evaluating the smoothness appearance of flat fabric and seams, and the retention of pressed-in creases in garments and other textile products after repeated home laundering. Principle: Textile end product items are subjected to standard home laundering practices. A choice is provided of hand or machine washing, alternative machine wash cycles and temperatures, and alternative drying procedures. Evaluation is performed using a standard lighting and viewing area by rating the appearance of specimens in comparison with appropriate reference standards.

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AATCC Test Method 76-2011 (Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics) Developed in 1954 by AATCC Committee RA32 The purpose of this test method is to determine the electrical surface resistivity of fabrics. The surface electrical resistivity may influence the accumulation of electrostatic charge of a fabric. Principle: Specimens at equilibrium with specified atmospheric conditions of relative humidity and temperature are measured for electrical resistance between parallel electrodes by means of an electrical resistance meter.

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ASTM D4029 / D4029M - 10

Standard Specification for Finished Woven Glass Fabrics This specification covers finished fabrics woven from "E" electrical glass fiber yarns that are intended as a reinforcing material in laminated plastics for structural use. This specification permits the application of sizing materials to the glass fiber yarn during manufacture that helps facilitate weaving.

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 These organic materials are typically removed from the greige Fabric and replaced with a finish that is compatible with a specified resin matrix. The materials shall meet the required fabric count, yarn designations, yarn number, filament diameter, strand construction, twist direction, twist level, fabric weave type, mass per unit area, thickness, breaking strength, width, length, ignition loss, finish level, and appearance.

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ASTM D3136 - 04(2008)e1 Standard Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products This terminology provides a uniform language for the disclosure of care instructions on labels that are to be attached to apparel, textile, home furnishing, and leather products. These definitions and descriptions employ common meanings used not only by textile technologists but also by consumers. The wording on a care label should be brief. Manufacturers are encouraged to place more detailed explanations in or on package covers, or in some temporary form of communication such as a sticker or hangtag. The terms used should be consistent with those used on care labels.

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LABEL TERMS

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS

Inside-out
Machine wash

Turn garment inside-out before cleaning to protect the face of fabric.

Use any home-type or coin-operated washing machine following the manufacturer's instructions as appropriate for the product. Set water temperature control on washer to use hot water directly from the hot water supply, maximum temperature 50C (120F). Set water temperature control on washer to use warm water, maximum 40C (105F). Set water temperature control on washer to use cold water directly from cold water supply, maximum temperature 30C (85F) Use non-chlorine bleach only when necessary. Chlorine bleach may not be used. No bleaches may be used. Dry away from the sun. Item not to be smoothed or finished with an iron. Turn article inside out for ironing or pressing. Do not use steam in any form. Use steam without contact pressure. Do not use steam in pressing, finishing, steam cabinets or wands. Self-explanatory. Use special leather care methods designed for sueded leathers 36 having a raised surface.

Hot

Warm

Cold

Only non-chlorine bleach when needed

Do not bleach Dry in shade Do not iron Iron reverse side only Do not steam Steam only No steam Do not dryclean Suede leather clean

ASTM D4851 - 07(2011) Standard Test Methods for Coated and Laminated Fabrics for Architectural Use The procedures in this standard can be used for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of coated and laminated fabrics for architectural use since these test methods have been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing. These test methods include only testing procedures and do not include specifications or tolerances. They are intended as a guide for specifications. Any of these methods may be used in material specifications to evaluate requirements for a specific end use as related to a particular job.

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ASTM D6207 - 03(2011) Standard Test Method for Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Changes in Humidity and Temperature The measured dimensional stability of a fabric determines whether a fabric has the potential to retain its original shape and remain stable, indicating it will not bubble or sag over time, when applied over a substrate, and its suitability for a specified use. This test method is used in industry to determine if a fabric grows, grows and then shrinks, shrinks and then grows, or remains the same when subjected to a specified range of humidity and temperature conditions. This test method covers the determination of the dimensional stability of fabrics that are intended for use on panel and screen systems to cycled changes in humidity and temperature. Panel and screen systems include acoustic panels, free standing screens, office partitions, and furniture systems.

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TESTING OF TRIMS USED IN APPAREL

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EVALUATION OF ZIPPERS Zippers can be evaluated using any one of the following ASTM Test methods. Durability of finish of zippers to laundering[66] The evaluation is done using a Launderometer . The effect of test coating is evaluating by noting the loss of coating on the zipper chain or components or both. Color fastness to Dry-cleaning[67] It is tested by subjecting the zipper stringer to commercial dry cleaning with a multi-fiber fabric. Color fastness to light and crocking[68,69]

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Evaluation of buttons
The durability of buttons can be tested by an impact test ASTM [91] . Individual buttons are placed on a surface centered under a tube through which a preselected mans from a preselected height. After the mans impact the button, the button is removed from the testing device and visually examined using 5x magnifying glass for breakage, cracking or chipping. This practice is used for acceptance testing of buttons.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY
LINKS http://www.aatcc.org/testing/methods/topical.htm http://www.apparelsearch.com/testing_methods.htm http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/03/importance-of-textile-testing-reasons.html http://www.astm.org/Standards/textile-standards.html

BOOKS MANAGING QUALITY IN APPAREL INDUTRY By Mehta and Bhardwaj Pg no. 81-146 273-275 TEXTILE TESTING By Jewel Raul Pg no. 1-98

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