Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Session 2
CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES
Classification of Fibres
Natural Fibers
Vegetable/Cellulosic/Plant Fibres Animal/Plant Fibres Mineral fibers
Filament
Indefinite length
Eg. Silk, man made fibers etc.
Fiber Property
1. Abrasion Resistance
Resistance of fiber to wear and tear from rubbing (resistance to rubbing).
2. Absorbency
Ability to absorb water Hydrophilic fibers Hydrophobic
Absorbency Affects 1. Skin Comfort 2. Static build-up 3. Dimensional stability 4. Stain removal 5. Water repellency 6. Wrinkle recovery Method to measure MR-oven dry wt. MC-air dry wt.
3. Cover
Ability to occupy area
4. Elasticity
Ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then return to the original length when released (recovery). Elastomeric Fibers
5. Flexibility
Ability to bend Drape
6. Hand
Feel of the fabric Depends upon 3 things: Shape (cross sectional) Surface (longitudinal) Configuration (crimped or straight)
8. Pilling
Tendency of the fiber to form small balls of broken entangled fibers that remain sticking to the surface of fabric.
9. Resiliency
Ability of a fibre to come back to its original shape after it being crushed or creased or compressed.
10. Wicking
Ability of fibre to transfer water
NATURAL FIBRE
Under them there are various categories: (1) plant (cellulosic fibers) (2) animal (protein fibers) (3) minerals
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Fibers
Cotton Kapok
Leaf Fibers
Pina (pineapple) Abaca (banana)
Cotton
Natural-Cellulosic, seed-staple fibre Cotton cultivation-steps
Planting Ripening Picking Drying Ginning
Major producers
USA, China, India, Pakistan, Brazil, Egypt
Indian varieties
Shankar-6 F-16 J-414
CONVOLUTIONS
Natural twist in cotton fibre Characteristic feature of cotton
Composition 90% cellulose,6% moisture and the remainder fats and impurities. the outer surface is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives fibre an adhesive quality.
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PROPERTIES
Staple Length-20mm to 50mm Thickness-16 to 20micromtr Convolutions
Long Staple 300 c/inch Short Staple 200c/inch Matte appearance Low Lustre
Comfort
Medium Strength fibre Wet strength is higher than dry strength Elongation 3-5% Poor elasticity MR-7% Very comfortable fibre Soft hand Good Heat and electrical conductivity
Appearance Retention
Moderate low resiliency Moderate ER (75% @ 2-5%)
Care
No special care Hot water Cl bleach Store clean & dry Harmed by acids
Uses
Apparel, Accessories, household articles, industrial textile, medical uses
Flax (Linen)
Natural, Cellulosic, Bast, staple Fibre Rich-man cotton NODES
Properties
Length 5-21.5 inches Fineness-12-16 micromtr Aesthetic
High natural luster Stiffer in drape than cotton Harsher in hand than cotton
Durability
Wet strength > dry Low elongation (~7%) Poor elasticity (65% @ 2%)
Comfort
MR 12% Good conductor of electricity & heat
Care
Harmed by acid Resistant to alkalies Resistant to high temp. Cl Bleach Required frequent pressing Low resiliency More resistant to sunlight than cotton Must be stored dry
ANIMAL/PROTEIN FIBRE
COMMON PROPERTIES
High Resiliency Hygroscopic Weaker when wet Lighter than cellulosic Harmed by alkali No Cl Sunlight damage
WOOL
Wool is the fiber derived from the fur of animals principally sheep. Steps in production Sheering Grading Sorting
Properties of wool
1.5 to 5 10 to 50micromtr Crimp and scales Aesthetic
Matte Lofty
Durability
High More dry strength Excellent elongation (25%) Excellent ER
Comfort
MR 13-18% Poor conductor of heat Excellent resiliency
Care
Resistant to dust Resistant to oil and spot Frequent creasing not required Do not wrinkle
Silk
Natural, protein, filament fiber Sericulture
Properties
Filament 1.25 denier Aesthetic
Soft, luster
Durability
Moderate abrasion resistant 20% less strength when wet Breaking elongation of 20% ER (90% @ 2%)
Comfort
MR 11% Poor conductor of heat
Care
Dry cleaning agent Can water spot easily Damaged and yellowed by strong alkali and high temp. No Cl No resistant to sunlight and persiperation
Spinning process
Melt-viscose, acrylic, spandex Dry-acrylic, acetate Wet spinning-nylon, polyester, olefin
Modification in MMF
Fibre size, surface, x-section Molecular structure, crystallinity Additives Modification in spinning process
Regenerated, cellulosic, filament, man made Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. serrated round shape with smooth surface. it loses 30-50% of its strength when it is wet. regenerated cellulosic fiber. artificial silk two principal varieties
viscose and cupra ammonium rayon.
RAYON
Properties
Highly absorbent
Soft, comfortable and easy to dye
Strength
Weak fibre Low dry strength than cotton Weaker when wet Elongation more than cotton Low ER
Comfort
MR 11%
ACETATE
Modified regenerated, cellulosic, filament MMF A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is cellulose acetate. Cellulose + acetic acid Beauty fibre X-section lobular or flower petal shaped Longitudinal lines
Properties:
Aesthetic
Appearance retention
Can shrink by excess heat Low ER
Beauty fibre Used where lustre, body and Care beauty of fabric is important s/b dry cleaned Resistant to weal acids and Durability alkalis Weak fibre Difficult to heat set Low wet strength Better sunlight resistant than Poor AR silk Resistant to moth, mildew and bacteria
Comfort
Uses
Lining fabric Draperies, bed spread, quilts Formal wear
POLYESTER
The term "polyester" is most commonly used to refer to polyethylene terephthalate (PET). high melting temperature dyed with only disperse dyes they are thermoplastic, have good strength and are hydrophobic the fibre has a rod like shape with a smooth surface. it is lustrous and its hand is crisp. it has excellent resiliency and is the best wash and wear fabric. there are problems of static MR 0.4-0.8%
NYLON
Synthetic, filament MMF Polyamide fibre X-section round Longitudinal regular and uniform
Aesthetic
Smooth and light in wt. Pleasant luster Drape can vary
Durability
Very strong Excellent AR Excellent ER
(100% @ 8%) (91% @ 16%)
Weakened in sunlight
Comfort
Low absorbency but highest in synthetic Nylon 6, 6 4% Nylon 6 2.8 to 5% Static charge build up at low humidity
Appearance
Highly resilient and wrinkle resistant Can be permanently shaped
Care
Easy care fabric, dries quickly Good resistant to alkalis and Cl bleach but is damaged by strong acids Resistant to moth and mildew Low resistant to sunlight
Uses
Carpets, sportswear, rope, parachutes, umbrella, bags, tents, etc.
ACRYLIC
Made from ACRYLONITRILE Dry (dissolved in dimethyle tormomide) or wet spinning X-section
Dry spinning Wet dog bone bean
Aesthetic
Imitates wool successfully Soft hand Matte luster
Durability
MR 1-2.5% Good wicking
Appearance retention
Moderate resiliency dimensional stability Shrink in boiling water
Care
Good resistant to most chemicals except strong alkalis and Cl bleach Resistant to moth and mildew Excellent resistant to sunlight
Uses
Sweaters, socks, upholstery, blanket, carpet, rugs
Thank you
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