Beauty:

Concept and Care

Vaidya Pawankumar Godatwar

Assistant Professor
NIA, Jaipur
“Satyam Shivam Sundaram”
Beauty is in the
eye of the
beholder, and this
is never more true
than seen over
time and between
different cultures.

Over time, our

concept of beauty
seems to fluctuate,
particularly
concerning people,
sometimes
favoring rather
heavy individuals
and at other times
very skinny ones.
 In different cultures,
parts of the body may
be purposefully
exaggerated in the
name of beauty, the
effects of which might
even seem grotesque to
those of another culture.
 For example, various
tribes throughout the
world use different
methods to lengthen
necks, exaggerate
mouths, ears and even
the shape of the head.
 Nevertheless, there does appear to be certain
classical concepts of beauty that are not
inconsistent with many of our modern views, and
it would seem that the ancient Indian concepts of
beauty are not very different, at least in regards
to the human form.
 At the same time, Indians seem to have been
just as influenced by beauty, if not more so, than
we are in our modern world.
 Beauty is a subject of Socio-medical
importance.
 From the ancient Indian and Egyptian
to present, through all cultures and
through the span of centuries,
mankind has been pre-occupied with
youth and physical appearance.
 Beauty has been admired since time
immemorial.
 The importance
of Beauty and
Personality is
increasing now a
day as it is a
competitive era.
 Everyone wants
to stand at height
and they require
a distinct
Personality which
differ them from a
crowd.
 The increased demand of beautification is
evident by number of Beauty contests,
Beauty centers, various cosmetic items
like creams, lotions, powder etc.
 Alongwith increased demand of beautification,
the problems are also increasing which cause
damage to Beauty or Personality due to
changed life style and polluted atmosphere.

Mud Pack To Restore Taj Mahal's Shimmer

Sky News, WEDNESDAY MAY 16, 2007

The Taj Mahal is set to receive

a cleansing mud pack to help
restore the Indian landmark to
its former glory.
Indian officials are considering
the beauty treatment because
pollution is turning the
monument's white marble
yellow.
 Some Historical insight…
 Historyof the Ayurvedic concept of Beauty may
be understood by different subdivisions as –
 Prevedic kala
 Vedic kala
 Brahmana kala
 Samhita kala
 Samgraha kala
 Madhya kala
 Modern Period
 Prevedic kala :
 Some archeological investigations provide
the evidences of ‘Mohenjodaro’ and
‘Harrapa’ culture where some articles
prove their cosmetic importance.
 The specimens like ‘Shilajitu’, Kajala’ and
‘Mirrors’ indicate that the aesthetic sense
prevailed in that period.
 Vedic kala :
 In Vedic literature many references can be
elicited in this direction. In ‘Rigveda’
description of the Lepa (local application) of
following herbs is found –

kilig&@p\c&rcºdn
c(c<ti©y:.{â‘ 2/21}
 In ‘Atharvaveda’ many other mantras highlight
the significance of improving the Varna, the
Kesha, the Intellect, the Lusture and the
Glowing appearance of the body.
 Bramhana kala :

 There is a description about beautification

which is also available in Purana like
‘Suryapurana’, ‘Shivapurana’ etc. Some of the
lines are dedicated for the purpose of
beautification and improving the health.
 In ‘Garuda purana’(G.P.Ka.1) various
beautifying yoga like ‘Mukhakantikara Lepa’,
‘Kesha Vardhaka yoga’, ‘Keshakrishnikarana
Yoga’ etc. are mentioned.
 Astrological point of view, description of Beauty
of male and female body organs is also given
in it (G. P. Ka. 1 chap.63).
 Ramayana and Mahabharata :

 The two great epics ‘Ramayana’ and

‘Mahabharata’ give ample description about
Beauty of important personalities like
‘Ramachandra’, ‘Sita’, ‘Nakula’, ‘Sahdeva’ etc.
‘Lord Ramachandra’ during his 14 years exile
in the forest was using the latex from the
Banyan tree for the purpose of dressing his
hair (Ramacharita Manas : Aranyakanda).
 In the ‘Anushasan Parva of Mahabharata for
acquiring Beauty and popularity, one has to be
doing Chandrayana Vrata in ‘Magasirsha
Masa’ has been mentioned.
 Narration of the bride
‘Draupadi’ during the
time of ‘Swayamvara’
and her role as
‘Sairandhri’ or an
aesthetician is another
example outlaying the
extent of cosmetic sense
which existed in that
period.
 Samhita kala :
 Samhitas have stressed upon good looking
personality (external appearance) of the ‘Physician’,
‘Attendants’ and the ‘Patients’.
 Various terms like Sumukha, Sudarshana, Subhaga
etc. have been used in Ayurveda (Ch.Vi.8/96) and
their relation has been established with the types of
Prakriti, Sara, Samhanana, Pramana etc.
 More over, the description of Dinacharya and
Ritucharya also indicates the cosmetic sense of that
period (Ch. Su.6).
 The description of dietary regimens and Pathya-
Apathya is also one of the important factors which
are considered for enhancement of Beauty.
 Ayurveda considers the importance of
Beauty irrespective of age or sex,
 equal importance to health along with
Beauty.
 Only healthy body and mind fulfills criteria
of a beautiful person.
 Charaka has grouped different herbs according
to their effects such as Varnya, Keshya,
Vayasthapana etc. which add to the Beauty of
an individual (Ch.Su.4/8).
 Many hygienic performances like Abhyanga,
Snana, Lepa etc. are stated to have
beautification of the physique and the psyche
also (Ch.Su.5/93-94).
 Certain dietary regimens are also indicative of
importance of food in creating and maintaining
Beauty.
 ‘Astauninditiya adhyaya’ explains and demarks
the limitation of the healthy outlook, unhealthy
outlook and sense of Beauty in it. (Ch.Su.21/3)
 ‘22 Upkramas’ explained under the
heading of ‘Vaikritapaham’ as Alepana,
Pariseka, Utsadana, Pandukarma, Roma
sanjanana etc. (SU.Chi.1/68-78).
 Elaborate discriptiopn of ‘Kshudra Rogas’
(SU.Ni.13) which are fundamentally
related to Cosmetic science also support
aesthetic sense of that period.
 More over, Sushruta was the first person
who established ‘Plastic Surgery’ like
‘Auroplasty’ and ‘Rhinoplasty’.
(SU.Su.16/5-6)
 Dharma
Artha
Kāma
Mokshānām
Rati and Kama Deva
Ārogyam
Moolam
uttamam…||
 ‘Kamasutra’
 Physical Beauty especially of
females is described.

 InKamasutra four types of

females as ‘Padmini’,
‘Chitrini’, ‘Sankhini’ and
‘Hastini’ along with their
characteristic are described.

 Certain good and bad

qualities of nail and teeth are
also described.
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(S(xti – kimSiA#i[
‘Surupa’, ‘Yauvanastha’ ‘Vasya’.
v(N<t 64 klini>
‘Sikshita Stri’ is said to be ‘Vrisyatama’
where ‘Surupa’ and ‘Yauvanastha’
(S(xti .. ck|pi(N
stands for beautiful young lady and
‘Sikshita’ indicates the complete
knowledge about ‘64 kalas’.
 SANSKRIT LITERATURE
 The references regarding the Beauty and
the Cosmetics are innumerable in the
Sanskrit literature, particularly in the works
of ‘Kalidas’.
 The heroine Shakuntala was
using different flowers and
leaves as ornaments; it
indicates how the lady was
beautifying herself for good
looking appearance.
 Especially Ingudi fruit was
used to enhance Beauty, as
antiseptic and for ulcer
healing (Vranaropan).
(Abhi.Sha.4/3)
 Kalidas has mentioned a complete description about
Beauty of a young lady.
 He had not given importance to only physical Beauty but
also mentioned virtues of heroine Shakuntala by
describing her love and caring nature towards plants and
animals, obedient to her father, having cool, serene and
adjustable nature.
 Thus physical, mental and spiritual Beauty was
considered as a complete Beauty of lady.
 Kalidas has used following synonyms for describing
Beauty as-
 Manohar
 Shobha
 Ratna
 Priyadarshana
 Lavanya
 Kanti
 Subhaga etc.
 Kalidas has also mentioned sun light (ultra
violet) as a factor destroying Beauty and
the drugs like Ushira, Chandana for local
application to protect the skin in summer.
(Abhi.Sha.3/10)
kNi<(pti[ li[G\kPiy@x[
gi[ri[cnix[p (ntiºtgi]r[.

 Ideal feminine Beauty

tºv) Åyimi (SK(rdSni

p±v(bÀbiGri[Oq)
m¹y[ ximi c(kth(rN)
p\[xNi (nÀnni(B:.
~i[N)Biridlsgmni
Ati[knm\i Atni¿yi
 Slim
 Youthful
 With fine teeth
 Lips red like ripe Bimbi
fruit (Coccinia indica
W.& A.)
 Slim at the waist
 Eyes like those of a
frightened doe
 Deep navel
 Slow of gait by the
weight of the hips
 Slightly bent by her full
bosom
 She is first and the best
in the creation of the
female by the creator.
“As long as we are not living in harmony
with nature and our constitution, we
can not expect ourselves to be really
healed.
Ayurveda gives us the means.”
David Frawley
 Ayurveda is not only the science of medicines
but it is the science of the life and such all the
facts of life are dealt with in Ayurveda.
 The Cosmetic approach in Ayurveda is related to
the healthy status of the body as well as mind.
(Ch.Su.1/41)
 More precisely it can be said that physical,
mental and spiritual Beauty as a combined unit
projects the Cosmetic sense of Ayurveda.
 Maharshi Sushruta has described ‘Swastha
Purusha’ as a person has equilibrium of the
Doshas and the Agni with balanced and specific
functioning of the Dhatu and Malas reflecting the
physical health, pleasant condition of mind, soul
and senses is the mental factor constituting the
health (SU.Su.15/41).
 Both the states lead to the healthy Personality
which is the basis of Beauty.
 The description available in Ayurvedic
texts in context of Cosmetology in general
and healthy personalities can be mainly
categorized into three divisions as –
 Factors determining Beauty.
 Factors contributing towards Beauty.
 Factors improving Beauty.
Factors determining Beauty
Prakriti in generalized way
Sara can be said as factors
Samhanana determining Beauty.
Skin
Varna from the general
Prabha aspect.
Chhaya
Pramana of various Angavayavas determines the
organic Beauty.
Dirghayu Lakshanas described in texts give the
aesthetic sense and fundamental base of Personality
and Beauty.
 Factors contributing towards
Beauty
 1. Dosha, Dhatu in their normal functioning
status contribute to maintain the Beauty.
 2. ‘Agni’ in equilibrium state, by digestion and
metabolism produces Bala, Varna, Ojas, Dhi,
Dhriti, Smriti etc.
 3. Similarly Matrijadi Shad Bhavas and
Panchamahabhautic combinations contribute in
creating inherent Beauty.
 4. Age, Sex, Religion, Race and anthropology
also have considerable impact upon the Beauty.
 Factors Improving Beauty

Ayurveda elaborates description of adjuvants like –

→ Dinacharya
→ Ritucharya
→ Achara Rasayana
→ Various methods in the form of internal medicines like
Mahakashaya
→ Surgical treatment like Plastic surgery,
Vaikritapaham
→ Diet as Hitatam, Matravat, Sadapathya dravyas
→ Medicines like Rasayana, Ghrita, Taila etc are
abundantly available.
Sharira +Indriya + Sattva + Atma

AYU
World Health Day

April 7
 WHD - APRIL 7,2002

Epidemiological Shift due to -

Rapid Transition in Life styles
Reduced Physical Activity
Changing Diets
WHD - APRIL 7,2002

Emphasis- importance of fitness and

a healthy lifestyle.
Theme- The need for, and the beneficial
effects of, physical activity
Slogan - “AGITA MUNDO – Move for
Health”.
 WHO Definition
-state of complete physical,
mental and social well being and
not merely an absence of disease
or infirmity (WHO,1948).
 Definition by WHO study group (1957)

 a. there is no obvious evidence of

disease, and that a person is functioning
normally, conforming within normal limits
of variation to the standard health criteria
accepted for one's age, sex, community
and geographic region and
 b. The several organs of the body
are functioning adequately in themselves
and in relation to each other, which implies
an equilibrium or homeostasis- a condition
relatively stable but which may vary as
human beings adapt to internal and
external stimuli.
Susthu nirvikaratvena
avatishthate iti Swasthah,
tasya bhavah Swasthyam
-Chakrapani

WHO Definition has been

amplified to include the ability to
lead a "socially and economically
productive life"
-(WHO, 1978,Health for all, sr.no.1).
 Swasthya
Sama Doshah samâgnischa
samadhâtu malakriyâh
Prasannâtmendriyah Manah
Swastha ityabhidhiyate.
(Su.sû.15/41)
 Beauty care-
Taccha Nityam Prayunjita
Swâsthyam yenanuvartate
Ajâtanâm
vikâranâmanutpattikaram cha
yat. ( Cha. Su.5/13)
a. Kshiya mâna Sharira Poshana
b. Pratyavâya hetu parihâra
Ayurvedic approach to health & beauty care

Dina-charyâ Attainment
Ritu-Charyâ Preservation
Sad-vrittâ Promotion
Roga- Maintenance
anutpâdaniya
Monitoring
Anagata bâdhâ
Pratishedha Restoration

Rasâyana of-

Vâjikarana
 Sharir
A a
B
N
h r
a
i
a h d
m
r a r
a h
c
a
a
r
ya
 Ahara (Diet)
Ashta Ahara Vidhi Visheshayatana
(8 specific factors related to Diet)

Prakriti Desha
Karana Kala
Samyoga Upayoga
Rashi Samstha
Upayokta
 Nidra (Sleep)
Recurring natural function of the body

Sleep provides:
Healthy body
Strength
Virility
Sharpened Senses
Long Life
 Nidra (Sleep)

Untimely & inadequate Sleep

Fatigue
Weakness
Sterility
Numbed Senses
Other illnesses
 Studies show that when people
work at night, their biorhythms
adapt only partially.
- [Weibel, L., Follenius, M., and Brandenberger, G. (1999) Biologic
rhythms: their changes in night-shift workers, Presse Med, 28(5), 252-258
(Feb 6)].

Night shift work has negative

effects on work performance,
health and social well-being,sleep,
gastrointestinal, cardiovascular,
reproductive Systems and psyche.
--[Scott, A.J., and LaDou, J. (1990) Shiftwork: effects on sleep and health with
recommendations for medical surveillance and screening. Occupational
Medicine, 5(2), 273-299 (Apr-Jun); Luna, T.D. (1997) Air traffic controller
 Normal Sleep pattern

Day Night

Various Sleep
activities
Disturbance in Normal Sleep pattern

Day Night

Sleep Awaken

Kapha Vata
Body more Dryness in
unctuous body
 Brahmacharya
Naishtika Vaivahika
Controlled Sex Regulated Sex
Protection from Veneral Follow daily & Seasonal
Diseases, AIDS Routine
Mental peace,
Concentration, Education

Good health & spiritual Wellbeing

 A
PP
R
O
A
C
Swasthasya H
Swasthya
Rakshanam T
O

BE
Aturasya
A
Vikara
U
Prashamana
TY

C
A
RE

Fundamental principles of Ayurveda

SAD - Seasonal Affective Disorder
Winter Depression Shitena yuktâh
Lethargy snigdhâdhyah
kurvate
Weight gain shleshmanaschayam
- Rosenthal (1984) (A.H.su.12/21)
Shleshmâgni sadana
prasekâlasya
gauravam…
Prevalence of SAD- up to 10%
of the general population
[Gysin, F., Gysin, F., and Gross, F. (1997) Winter depression and
phototherapy. The state of the art. Acta Med Port, 10(12), 887-893 (Dec)].

SAD becomes rare above

the age of 50
(Predominance of Vâta in
Old age).
Underlying mechanisms -
environmental variables, e.g.
climate, latitude, light, and
changes in neurotransmitter
function that occur naturally
with the seasons may be
important
-[Attar-Levy, D. (1998) Seasonal depression. Therapie,
53(5), 489-498 (Sep-Oct)].
Exposure to bright artificial light in the
morning has been found effective in
the treatment of SAD
[Partonen, T., and Lonnqvist, J. (1998) Seasonal affective disorder. Lancet,
352(9137), 1369-1374 (Oct 24)].

This treatment has an effect on biological

rhythms, helping the person to remain in
synchrony with the daily light-dark cycle.
[Increase in surya component of Pitta as
opposed to the soma component of Kapha.]

Om udwayam tamasaspari swah

pashyanta uttaram. Devam devatra
suryamaganma jyotiruttamam
 In adult vertebrates there
are three significant clocks:
the retina , the pineal gland
and the suprachiasmatic
nucleus of the
hypothalamus. In human
beings, it seems that the
suprachiasmatic nucleus is
the main clock driving
cyclical changes such as
temperature variations.

- [Takahashi, J.S. (1996) Ion channels get the

message. Nature, 382, 117-118].
The retina - Seat of Alochaka Pitta
The pineal gland - Seat of Tarpaka
Kapha
The suprachiasmatic nucleus of the
hypothalamus- Vayustantra yantra
dharah,Pranodansamanavyanapanat
ma, pravartakascheshta
ucchavachanam, niyantapraneta cha
manasah,
Sarvendriyanamabhivodha….
-( Cha.su. 12/8)
 Many of the physiological processes
within us follow circadian rhythms.
This rhythmicity derives from an
internal biological clock as well as our
rhythmic environment and rhythmic
habits. Generally, there is a synchrony
between these different processes and
influences, but this can be disrupted
by irregular hours of work and by
long-distance travel, producing
undesirable side-effects
-[Minors, D.S., and Waterhouse, J.M. (1987) Circadian rhythms and their
application to occupational health and medicine. Rev Environmental Health,
7(1-2), 1-64 (Jan-Jun)].review. Aviation and Space Environmental Medicine,
68(1), 69-79 (Jan); Costa, G. (1999) Shift work and health, Med Lav, 90(6),
739-751 (Nov-Dec)].
Disturbance of Circadian Rhythms
Bio rhythms of people working at
night adapt only partially
Evidence Shows that night work
has negative effect on-
Health
Work performance
Social Well being
Sleep
gastrointestinal,
cardiovascular &
reproductive systems
Psyche
 AROMAS
 COLOURS
 SOUNDS
 GEMS

“Matter is energy and what seems solid is

but a static appearance of innumerable
subtle moving forces.” David Frawley
 Abhyanga
 Care of individual body parts
 Rejuvenation programme for the skin
 Sun protection :
Avoid sun exposure, proper sun-screener with SPF
> 15.
 Daily skin care :
Cleansing, Moisturizers.
 Systemic therapy :
Adequate nutrition (proteins and iron), anti
oxidants (Vitamins A, C, E and minerals).
 Cosmeceuticals :
Alpha hydroxyl acid, Tretinoins, Hydroquinones.
 Habits :
Adequate sleep and fluid intake, reduce / avoid smoking.
 Non surgical therapy :
Massage, Face packs and masks, Iontophoresis,
antigravity exercise, ESS for wrinkles, Toning and Facelift.
 Surgical therapy :
Chemical peeling ( Glycolic or TCA), LASER,
dermabration, dermal fillers, face lifts, blephroplasty etc.
 Facial Treatment
 Cleansing : Ubtans etc.
 Oleation Massage
 Herbal Steam or Compress
 Gentle Scrub
 Cleansing or Nutrifying Mask
 Toning
 Moisturising
 Hydrating
 Make-up
 Some important herbs used in
beauty care
 Kinshuka pushpa Butea monosperma
 Rakta Chandana Pterocarpus santalinus
 Laksha Schleichera oleosa
 Manjishtha Rubia cordifolia
 Ushira Vetiveria zizanioidis
 Padmaka Prunus cerasoides
 Nilottpal Nymphaea nouchali
 Nyagrodhapada Ficus bengalensis
 Plakshamoola Ficus lacor
 Padma Nelunbo nucifera
 Madayantika Lawsonia inermis
 Haridra Curcuma longa
 Daruharidra Berberis aristata
 Sariva Hemidesmus indicus
 Patang Caesalpinia sappan Linn.
 Kesara Crocus sativus
Name of the Chemical Property
Drug Constitutes
Sariva Saponin, Tannin Astringent
Yashtimadhu Glycyrrhizine Demulcent
Haridra Curcumin Colouring agent
Nyagrodha Whole plant Astringent
Nilotpal Palmitic, oliec,
Llinolenic, Linoleic acid Emollient
Manjishtha Manjishthin, Purpin,
Pseudopurpin, Xanthopurpurin Colouring agent
Patanga Glycine, Palmiticacid, Stearic,
Linoleic, Oleic acid Emollient, Astringent
Kumkuma Palmitic, Oleic, Linoleic acid Emollient

Ushira Aromatic, Cooling

“A Good Face Is the Best Letter of Recommendation
And
The Cheek Is Apter Than The Tongue To Tell
Errand.”
Shakespeare.
“Life is a mirror.
If you frown at it, it frowns back.
If you smile, it returns the greeting.”
Thackeray