PENGANTAR TEKNIK TEKSTIL

Textile Engineering Difinition Classification of Fibers The Characteristic of Natural and Manmade Fibers Properties of Textile Fibers Yarn Numbering Systems Yarn Formation (Fiber to Yarns) Fabric Formation (Fabric Constractions) Finishing Processes Dyeing (Finishing with Color)

References
1. 2.

3.

4.

5.

Anonim,1997., Profile of The Textile Industry, Washington,DC.USA Corbman,1995.,Textiles Fiber to Fabric,McGraw-Hill,Los Angeles,USA Lloyd.H.Jackson,1990.,Yarn and Cloth Calculations, New York. Textile Research Journal, Princeton,USA Robert R Franck,2005.,Bast and other plant fibers,Woodhed Publishing Limited,England
2

Textile Engineering Difinition

Textile Engineering is concerned with specific knowledge of textiles in the designing, improving, and utilizing of systems of people, textile materials, information,equipments, and energy. It draws upon specialized knowledge and skill in the mathematical, physical, and social sciences, together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
3

Classification of Textile Fibers

Natural Fibers: Vegetable : Cotton, Linen, Jute, Hemp, Sisal/Agave, Kapok, Ramie, Coir, Pina. Animal : Wool, Silk, Hair Mineral : Asbestos Manmade Fiber : Cellulosic namely; Rayon, Acetate and Triacetate NonCellulosic Polymers:Nylon, Aramid, Polyester, Acrylic, Spandex, Polycarbonate, Olefin, Vinyon, Modacrylic, etc

Some physical and chemical characteristics natural fibers

Characteristics Ramie Flax Hemp Cotton

Ultimate fiber length in mm (minimum) Average Maximum

5 120 150 620

1 13 14 130

5 15 25 55

9 20 30 63

Ultimate fiber diameter in microns (minimum) Average Maximum

13 40 60 126

5 17 20 40
78 12 64 86 51 31 - 14

10 15 30 50

12 14 16 20

Tensile strength in kg/mm Moisture regain in % Chemical Composition in % Cellulose Lignin Hemicellulose,pectin and others

95 12 72 97 10 27 -3

83 12 67 68 64 27 - 18

45 8 88 96 0 12 - 4

PROPERTIES OF COTTON FIBERS

Property
Regidity(torsonial) Resistance to bending

Relative Amount
High High

Possible Determinative Fact.

Regid molec.exensive crystallization Same

Plasticity Extensibility

Low Low

Large intermolecular forces Stretched molecules,high crystallinity

Resiliency Dry tenacity Wet tenacity

Low Fairly high High

High molecular interaction Good molecular and crystallite High degree of polymerization

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF COTTON FIBERS

Constituents Cellulose Protein Pectic substances

Typical 94.0 1.3 0.9

Low 88.0 1.1 0.7

High 96.0 1.9 1.2

Ash Wax Malic,citric and other

Total sugars/honey due Other

1.2 0.6 0.8

0.3 0.9

0.7 0.4 0.5

0.5 -

1.6 1.0 1.0

1.0

TYPICAL TEXTILE PROCESSING FLOW CHART

Manmade filament fibers
Manmade staple fibers Raw wool, Cotton

Texturizing

Fiber Preparation Yarn Formation Spinning Warping Slashing Weaving Knitting

Fabric Formation

Knitting

Preparation

Dyeing

Printing

Wet Processing

Finishing

Cutting Sewing

Fabrication

Finish goods

Physical and Chemical Properties of Natural and Synthetic Fibers

Physical Properties of Natural Fibers, namely: Fiber length average between 20 mm 38 mm (cotton) Fineness average between 3,5 4.0 micron Tensile strength between 45kg/mm Moisture regain average 8 % Diameter average 12 14 micron

Industrial Processes in Textile Industry

The textile industry includes the production of yarn, fabric and finish good. The following for production stages namely: The textile industry includes the production of yarn, fabric and finish good. The following four production stages namely: 1. Yarn formation 2. Fabric formation 3. Wet processing 4. Fabrication

10

Yarn Formation Processes

Manmade
Texturizing

Manmade

Natural fiber
Cleaning

Fabric formation Blending

Carding

Combing

Drawing

Roving

Sinning

Fabric formation 11

Processing Functions

Blowing opening,cleaning,separiting,mixing. Carding individualized for straightening and cleaning,remove contamination like impurities Combing the removal of short fibers and straightened hooked fiber Drawing fiber straightened by drafting and doebling Roving drafting,twisting and winding Spinning drafting, twisting and winding

12

Short Fiber Calculator

The short fiber calculator predicts the short fiber content given a bale,upper half mean length, uniformity index,micronaire,and strength The regession equation is as follow: Short fiber cont,%(by weight) = SFC(%w) = C-(13.255xUHML)(0.573xUI)-(1.255xmic)-(0.117xStrength) Where: UHML = fiber upper half mean length in inches UI = Fiber length uniformity index in percent mic = cotton micronaire value Strength = fiber strength in grams/tex and The value of C depend on growth region are;79.007;77.802;79.012; and 77.802.

13

Cotton Waste Removal Required

To estimate the amount of removal use the following formula: Waste needed,%= (average%trash in bale)x(%trash to be removed) average%trash in waste PERCENT RUN TIME AND THROUGHPUT RATE To determine the run time, net throughput rate as follow: Machine run time,%= total time machine processes stock x 100% total time of test Net throughput rate = total weight of stock processed total time of observation

14

Cleaning Efficiency and waste Removed

For calculating cleaning efficiency are as follows:

Cleaning Eff.= %trash in stock fed-%trash in stock delivered x 100% % trash in stock fed Or Cleaning Eff. = % waste removed x % trash in waste % trash in stock fed
Waste removed = weight of waste removed x 100% weight of stock fed

15

Percent Nep and Short Fiber Content Change

To calculation percent Nep use formula:

Nep cont.change,%= nep cont.indelivered stocknep cont.in fed stock x 100 % nep content in fed stock
Short Fiber Change (SFC) Determining the amount of change in short fiber content: SFC change,%=(%SFC in delivered stock)-(%SFC in fed stock) x 100% % SFC in fed stock

16

Draft Calculation

There are three common ways to calculate the draft at a process.

Draft = Weight per unit length fed ( Actual draft) Weight per unit length delivered
Draft = Length unit weight delivered Length per unit weight fed (Actual draft)

Draft = Surface speed of deliverery rolls (Machine draft) Surface speed of feed rolls

17