Formulating

Making cosmetics & personal care products Perry Romanowski

Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 10/0 /0!

"genda
#aming Chemicals Raw materials Formula types Creating and testing formulas

Personal Care & Cosmetic Products

"ll of them are re$uired to ha%e &ist of 'ngredients (&)'*

Formulating

#aming Cosmetic Chemicals

Chemical #omenclature

'#C' +ictionary (11th edition* &egal names & cross references

Sources Regulatory info "pplication info

www,ctfa,org

Formulating

#aming Cosmetic Compounds

Chemical #omenclature Systems

Semisystematic method
-ses common names &ow molecular weight compounds

'-P"C ('nternational* System

.he one taught in college /ighly structured Figure out chemical structure from name

'#C' Con%entions
0lends 1oth systems

Formulating

#aming Cosmetic Compounds

Car1ons '-P"C
Main Chain 2 3 10 11 1 14 15 16 17 1! 12 13 0 Stem name )ctane #onane +ecane -ndecane +odecane .ridecane .etradecanoic Pentadecanoic /e8adecanoic /eptadecanoic )ctadecane #onadecane :icosane

'#C'
Fatty acids Caprylic Pelagronic Capric -ndecanoic &auric .ridecanoic Myristic Pentadecanoic Palmitic Margaric Stearic 99999999 "rachidic

'#C'
Fatty alcohols Caprylyl #onyl +ecyl -ndecyl &auryl .ridecyl Myristyl Pentadecyl Cetyl /eptadecyl Stearyl 9999999 "rachidyl

Formulating

#aming Cosmetic Compounds

'#C' is a little different than '-P"C

Fatty "cids Stems 1 Car1on; straight chain fatty acid

'-P"C it<s +odecanoic "cid '#C' it<s &auric "cid Sodium +odecyl Sulfate is Sodium &auryl Sulfate

17 Car1on; straight chain alcohol

'n '-P"C we call it /e8adecanol 'n '#C' it<s known as Cetyl "lcohol

Formulating

'#C' System

Source +eri%ed Stems

Most ingredients are not pure 1ut mi8tures Coconut oil; palm kernel oil; soy1ean oil "mmonium Coco9Sulfate

Cocotrimonium chloride

Formulating

Fatty "cid +istri1utions

Acid Caproic Caprylic Capric auric #yri$tic #yri$toleic Pentadecanoic Palmitic Palmitoleic #ar'eric Stearic (leic inoleic inolenic Arac)idic *e)enic C 6 8 10 1! 1" 1" 15 16 16 17 18 18 18 18 !0 !! Coconut 0.5 7.0 6.0 "8.0 1%.0 %.0 &.0 6.0 1.5 Palm !.0 "!.0 ".0 "&.0 %.0 Soybean 11.0 ".0 !1.0 55.5 8.5 Tallow &.5 1.0 0.5 !5.& ".0 !.5 1%." "0.8 !.5 Sun Flower 6.& ".1 !!.% 66.0 0.!

Formulating

'#C' system

+eri%ati%es
:thers; name 1oth alkyls add ether an 12 C & 17 C linked 1y ) is Stearyl Cetyl :ther :sters formed 1y reacting alcohol with acid #amed in 4 parts Myristyl Stearate = Myristyl alcohol reacted with Stearic acid

Formulating

"n e8ample
Cetyl Alco)ol CH3-(CH2)-14-CH2 - OH Palmitic Acid HOOC -(CH2)-14-CH3

O || CH3-(CH2)14-CH2 O C -(CH2)14-CH3 Cetyl Palmitate

Formulating

'#C' system

"lkanolamides 9 "lkyl groups reacted with amino groups RC) > fatty acid radical ? > 9C/R@C/ )/ A > 9/ or a lower alkyl group :8amples
+:" = diethanolamine .:" = triethanolamine Cocamide +:"

Formulating

'#C' system

BuaterniCed materials
Fatty acids linked to an ammonium ion Maintain a positi%e charge add the suffi8 D9iumE depending on num1er of su1stitutions Cetrimonium Chloride Buaternium & Poly$uaternium denoted 1y ar1itrary num1ers

Formulating

'#C' system

Poly$uaternium955
%inylpyrrolidone and $uaterniCed imidaColine monomers

Formulating

'#C' System 9 Silicones

Silicones 9 non9car1on 1ased ingredients

+imethicone (+imethyl polysilo8ane* +imethicone copolyol (has polyo8yethylene groups to impro%e water solu1ility* Cyclomethicone Silo8ane Silica = Si)

Farieties of Silicones

+imethicone Copolyol

Formulating

'#C' System 9 Polymers

Polymers
P:G (Polyethylene glycol* PPG (Polypropylene glycol* #um1er designates moles of ethylene o8ide "dapted from trade names

Car1omer #ylon97

#oteH Compounds are often referred to 1y their trade names

Formulating

Colorants

6,6'-(1,4-anthraquinonylenediimino)di-m-toluenesul oni! a!id "reen # (C$ 61#%&) disodium salt

Formulating

Colorants

Colorants
-nwieldy chemical names replaced F+&C (Food; +rug & Cosmetic* +&C e8t (+rug & Cosmetic e8ternal use* Recently changed to 1e more glo1al eg, F+&C Aellow no, 7 is now Aellow 7 (C' 16326* 526 appro%ed colorants for cosmetics

#atural 'ngredients
Iater :8tracts use latin names ("loe 0ar1adensis &eaf :8tract * lanolin; menthol; 1eeswa8; tea tree oil

Perfume is Just called Fragrance

Formulating

&ist of 'ngredients (&)'*

'ngredient &a1eling

-S &egal re$uirement -se standardiCed names Proper order

'n order a1o%e 1K 0elow 1K is ar1itrary e8cept Colors at the end Fragrance allergens

Formulating

:8ercise = &ist of 'ngredients

'ngredient &a1eling

Ihere is the 1K lineL .ipsH

Fragrance is rarely o%er 1K "dJustment ingredients are low #atural sounding ingredients are lower

Formulating

Ihere is the 1K lineL

/air Shampoo formula

Iater; "mmonium &auryl Sulfate; "mmonium &aureth Sulfate; Sodium Chloride; Cocoamide M:"; Glycol +istearate; +imethicone; "mmonium ?ylenesulfonate; Fanilla Planifolia Fruit :8tract; Cocos #ucifera Milk Coconut; Fragrance; Cetyl "lcohol; Poly$uaternium910; Sodium Citrate; Sodium 0enCoate; +isodium :+."; P:G9!M; Citric "cid; Propylene Glycol; MethylchloroisothiaColinone; MethylisothiaColinone; 0lue #o, 1,

Certainly prior to Fanilla e8tract Pro1a1ly 1etween Gylcol +istearate & +imethicone

Formulating

Ihere is the 1K lineL

/air Conditioner formula

Iater (a$ua*; Cetearyl "lcohol; Glycerin; Cyclomethicone; 0ehentrimonium Methosulfate; 0ehentrimonium Chloride; Cetyl "lcohol; Iheat Germ )il (triticum %ulgare*; /ydrolyCed Silk; Panthenol; .ocopheryl "cetate; MoJo1a )il (1u8us chinensis*; "loe 0ar1adensis &eaf Muice; Fragrance; Propylene Glycol; Methylpara1en; Propylpara1en; +iaColidinyl -rea; Citric "cid; Red 44; 0lue 1

0ody Iash

Iater; Sodium &aureth Sulfate; Cocamidopropyl 0etaine; "crylates Copolymer; Fragrance; Sodium &auroamphoacetate; Citric "cid; )8idiCed Polyethylene; Sea Salt; Sodium 0enCoate; Poly$uaternium 10; +isodium :+."; Sodium /ydro8ide; MethylchloroisothiaColinone; MethylisothiaColinone; Ferric "mmonium Ferrocyanide

Should 1e Simmondsia Chinensis (MoJo1a* Seed )il

Cosmetic Raw Materials

Cosmetic Raw Materials

Surfactants Conditioning ingredients Polymers Preser%ati%es Fragrances Colorants Claims ingredients
Most were discussed pre%iously in first; second or third lectures

Formulating

Conditioning "gents
+efinition/+escription

"ny material that impro%es the condition of 1iological surfaces

Su1stanti%ity

Resistance to rinse9off Conditioning agents stay on the surface Iater insolu1le or electrostatic

Formulating

Conditioning "gents
/air Conditioners

Makes hair easier to com1 'mpro%e shine; feel; & managea1ility /air strength

Skin Conditioners (MoisturiCers*

Reduce dryness; flaking Soften Protect from sun; wind; detergents,,,

Conditioner Ihat +oes 't +oL

Smoothes cuticle to impro%es hair<s DconditionE

'mpro%es com1ing; managea1ility; smoothness; and shine

Before, cuticles are lifted and rough

After, cuticles are tight and smoother

Formulating

.ypes of Conditioning "gents

Cationic Surfactants (Buats* NCationic Polymers N:mollients N/umectants N)cclusi%es
NMost of these were discussed pre%iously in first and third lecture

Formulating

BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds

(Buats* Cationic Surfactants

"mmonium Salts &ong chain from 1 to

car1ons, )ily

Formulating

BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds

:8amples

"mines
Cetrimonium Chloride Stearalkonium Chloride

Ho' they !ondition

Formulating

BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds

)n the surface

/air cuticle is smoothed Softer feel :asier to Com1 &ess Static

Some issues with irritation Generally incompati1le with anionics,,,

Cosmetic Chemistry BuiC O1

Ihich ingredient is #). currently used in cosmeticsL Cow +ung Sheep placenta Ihale Semen Chicken 1one marrow

Formulating

Formulating

Product +efinition
Physical Parameters "esthetic Considerations Performance Packaging )perational 'ssues Cost

Formulating

.he process
Starting Formulation Make .est 0atches .est prototypes

Formulating

Starting Formulations
/ow +o Aou 0eginL

:8perience Supplier Formularies Reference .e8ts

de #a%arre series 0ennet formulary

Check patent literature; monthly trade Journals Peer "d%ice Competiti%e Research

Formulating

Competiti%e research
&ook at the &)' of competiti%e products -se the 1K line e8ercise to guess at formula Sources of &)' and claims information

httpH//drugstore,com httpH//ulta,com

Formulating

Starting Formulations
Iork within product constraints

Consider Formula Cost Production capa1ility Regulatory issues

Glo1al formulations,,,

Types of formulas:

Solutions
Simplest formulation /omogenous mi8ture of ingredients "pplications

Shampoo 0ody wash /and cleanser Cologne 0ath oils,,,

Types of formulas:

:mulsions = Making .hem

.alked a1out these last week Formulation

)il and Iater Phase are mi8ed separately )il phase is heated
to melt wa8es & fatty alcohols

Mi8ed with surfactants Cooled while 1eing agitated

this makes the appropriate particle siCe

Types of formulas:

:mulsions
"pplications

/and creams Make up /air conditioners Sha%ing cream Sunscreens,,,

Types of formulas:

Gels
Gels

Solid or semi solid materials in colloidal state Semi li$uid products dispensed from a tu1e Single phase Clear products Shear thinning
when force is applied they get thinner &ike ketchup

Types of formulas:

Gels
Gelling agents = 4 types

"crylic Polymers
Car1omer .hickens when polymeric chains chemically 1ond

#atural gums
Iater swella1le materials )il swella1le materials for anhydrous gels

Cellulosics
/ydro8ymethylcellulose

Types of formulas:

Gels
Formulation

Gelling agent causes thickening "dded at the end Reduces 1u11ling .ypically; good sta1ility

Types of formulas:

Gels
"pplications

/air gels 0ody care

Shower gels

Facial care
Sha%ing gel

)ral care
toothpaste,,,

Types of formulas:

Sticks
Sticks

Solid deli%ery form +eli%ers insolu1le acti%es Good for products you don<t want to touch Packaging is important "cti%es are deli%ered 1y ru11ing action

Types of formulas:

Sticks
Four types of sticks

Ia8 & oil mi8tures

0eeswa8 or Carnua1a Pigment deli%ery

Solidified soaps
Propylene glycol with sodium stearate Fragrance deli%ery

Types of formulas:

Sticks
Four types of sticks

Fatty alcohols with %olatile silicones

Stearyl "lcohol with Cyclomethicone Silicone impro%es feel

+i1enCylidene sor1itol
Gelling agent that creates clear sticks

Types of formulas:

Sticks
Manufacture =

ways

Pre9molding method /ot fill method

"pplications

&ipsticks Fragrance sticks "ntiperspirants/+eodorants,,,

Types of formulas:

"erosols
"erosols

Gaseous suspension of colloidal particles

Classic college e8ample is fog or ocean mist

Self9contained pressuriCed spray system deli%er insect repellant /airsprays introduced late 1350s

+e%eloped during II''

Types of formulas:

"erosols
"pplications

/airsprays Sha%ing creams "nitperspirants +eodorants

Types of formulas:

"erosols
Four Primary Components

)uter Packaging (Can* Fal%e system "cti%e 'ngredients Propellant

Types of formulas:

"erosols Packaging
)uter Packaging

.in plate cans

4 pieces of steel Crown (top* Cylinder (1ody* 0ase (1ottom* coated with epo8y

"luminum cans
)ne9piece construction

Types of formulas:

"erosols Packaging
Fal%e

+iptu1e
Polyethylene

Fal%e 1ody
Main piece

"ctuator
Connects to stem

/ousing
%al%e cup

Types of formulas:

"erosols Formulations
Concentrate Chemistry

"cti%e ingredients Sol%ents (water/alcohol*

/ydrocar1ons /ydrofluorocar1ons +imethyl ether Compressed gas

Propellant

Types of formulas:

"erosols Forms
Product forms

Solutions :mulsions Powder +ispersions Foaming Gels #on9aerosols Pump sprays,,,

"erosol "lternati%es

Chemistry BuiC O
Ihich one is the F"P: 1eauty gadgetL Iand that shoots o8ygen into your skin to smooth; tone & stimulate /and held laser that makes your hair grow :lectronic head1and that rela8es muscles to remo%e wrinkles Ceramic unipolar magnet that controls acne

Creating formulas

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

PrepareQ

'dentify Raw Materials +ocument Manufacturing Procedure

-se la1 note1ooks

Print out 1atch sheets Get Raw materials Check :$uipment

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

't<s Just like following a recipe,

instead of eggs; milk & flour we use S&S; Cocamidopropyl 1etaine; +M+M /ydantoin &earn trade & '#C' names Pnow why material is used Physical form 9 li$uid; solid Special /andling (MS+S*

'dentify Raw Materials

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

Re%iew the manufacturing procedure

"ssem1le the e$uipment

mi8ers; mills; 1alances; heating & cooling

Special e$uipment
/omogeniCers for thick products

Record the SpecificationsQ

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

0efore you make the 1atch

Print out 1atch sheets

+ateHRRRRRRRRRR :#.:R 0".C/ S'S: >

Perry's Fabulous Formula 0atch Code 562900 6

10000

'.:M O &). O CodeO +:SCR'P.')# I. K I. "ctual .ime .emp 9999999999 9999999999 99999999999999 9999999999 9999999999 99999999999 9999999999999 99999999999999 9999999999 9999999999 9999999999 1 RRRRR +I3045 +:')#'S:+ I".:R 76,00K 7600,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR S+617 Raw Material O1 40,00K 4000,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR 4 RRRRR G&600! Raw Material O 5,50K 550,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR 5 RRRRR 888 Preser%ati%e; color; etc $,s $,s, RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

Make a trial 1atch

Peep 1atch notes .imes; temperature; changes Should match specifications

p/ Fiscosity "ppearance / odor

:%aluate/.est

:mulsions should 1e homogenous Formula should function properly

Creating Formulas

Preparing .est 0atches

Make "dJustments

p/ can 1e adJusted with acid or 1ase 'n some systems; %iscosity can 1e adJusted with salt Some 1atches you Just pitchQ

Repeat; Repeat; Repeat,,,

Creating Formulas :

Scale up
Pro1lems to watch out forH

Compositional +e%iations Processing Changes

Mi8ing conditions /eat .ransfer

Raw Material Fariations

Salt content Chemical "cti%ity

Creating Formulas

't worksQ #ow IhatL

Sta1ility .esting :%aluate Filling :$uipment :sta1lish Packaging CongratulationsQ Aou are a cosmetic chemist

Cosmetic Chemistry BuiC O4

Ihich one is the F"&S: headlineL Rich people are more prone to skin cancer Prolonged use of muscle pain cream can kill you Aou can 1ecome addicted to tanning Aour skin is home to o%er 12 species of mites

Free :ntry for first 6 people Iho contactT Scott IenCel (3 0* ! 1 9 6!6 Scott,wenCelUkcc,com

Formulating

Summary
Re%iewed chemical nomenclature Common raw materials Formulation types 0atching & testing

.hanksQ

Formulating

Buestions

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