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INTRODUCTION
o The concept of garment dyeing is not new. Even in good old days, the old garments used to be dyed by households or by commercial launderers, which was basically
done for changing the color of the faded garments to have a newer look. Articles like towels, linens, napkins, table cloth, hosiery goods, etc, are being processed in the ready made form only since the last four decades.
o The garment dyeing of cotton garments such as trousers, jackets, shirts, skirts and tops is gaining popularity and is relatively new trend in the Indian garment industry.
Garment dyeing has now become an important segment of apparel industry and its potential has yet to be exploited in India. Our society is gradually becoming more sensitive towards quick fashion changes, probably due to influence from the western countries. Therefore , it becomes necessary for garment suppliers and manufacturers to fulfill the customers demand by changing over to quick response system.
fashioned apparel articles and these fashioned apparel articles may be in the form :o Garments cut and sewn from either prepared or unprepared knitted fabrics
viz.- fibre processing, yarn processing, fabric processing and garment processing, the last option garment processing has gained momentum in past few years due to denim garments which is the largest garment segment being processed by this method.
There are many advantages of wet
processing of denims like it give various novel effects and various processes like bleaching could also be done at preferred parts of the garments and so on. There are mainly two subsegments of garment processing:-
The dyeing of the garments demands more care than fabrics due to the fact that the processing involves value added goods. may be broken down into four categories, namely, fully fashioned garment dyeing, cut and sewn garment, dyeing of 100% cotton goods for boutique trades and processing of denims leading to stone wash, acid wash, washing and highlighting effects.
classification
Washingcentrifuging Jet dyeing centrifuging
1. Paddling machine
2. Drum machine
3. Washing-centrifuging machines
Paddling machine
o It consist of either horizontal or vertical
paddles .
o Paddles are widely accepted for sweaters,
loosely knitted goods due to their soft dyeing action, which avoids abrading and pilling of the garments.
o For gentleness, the dyeing is carried out
with m:l ratio of 30:1 to 40:1, the blades of the paddle are either curved or rounded and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 rpm to 40 rpm. Overhead paddle, lateral paddle and high temperature paddle machines serve the needs of the entire range of the garments.
designs have compartments to control garment movements, abrasion due to mechanical action by carrying the garments through the dye liquor in the compartments.
o By making more compartments
the tumbling effects and the entanglements in the garments are reduced and also are the abrasions associated with it.
and are capable rotating in both the directions at 2 rpm to 20 rpm, where temperature varies up to 140c.
o Drum dyeing centrifuging machines are also
called multipurpose drum machines or multi-rapid dyeing-centrifuging machines, since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with automated controls.
goods are kept in circular motion by jet nozzles whose direction and force are adjustable.
Turbulence nozzles at the bottom
ensure liquor circulation, prevent goods from sinking and allow opening them.
the machine capacity varies from 25 kg - 125 kg of dry weight with m:l ratio of 1:25 to 1:40 and temperatures as high as up to 130 C.
Acid desizing In this method cotton fabric is treated with dilute sulphuric acid with a concentration of 5-10 gpl at temp of 40oc for 3-4 h. Dilute acid attacks the polymer chain of starch and due to chain cleavage of starch molecule short water soluble or dispersible chain segments are formed. Enzymatic desizing Enzymes have become extremely popular in the industry because they are easy to use and applicable in many process.
2.
Stone washing :-
Process:-The jeans are washed with oval or round pumice stones which should all have roughly the same format. The pumice stones are very light with a rough surface. Normally after desizing, Stone wash process starts with pumice stone addition in rotary drum type garment washer, process time varies from 60-120mins.
Load the machine with garment Desizing oxidative or enzymatic Rinsing Load machine with stones Run machine for 30- 60 min depending on the abrasive effect Rinsing Tumble dryer
4.
Effluent treatment
ENZYME WASH Limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process, can be overcome by using new enzyme based washing technology.
o Cellulase enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment
processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone.
o Cellulase attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fibre, leaving the
interior of the fibre as it is,by removing the Indigo present in the surface of the fibre.
o Sequence :Load the machine. 2. Desize (oxidative) 3. Rinse 4. Bleaching (hypochlorite) 5. Rinse 6. Antichlor treatment to remove residual chlorine 7. Rinse 8. OBA / FBA optional 9. Rinsing 10. Tumble dryer
1.
LIMITATION:1.
Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in repeated runs. When desire level to bleaching reach the time span available to stop the bleaching is very narrow. Due to the harshness of chemical, it may case damage to the cellulose resulting in sever strength losses and / or breaks or pinhole at the seam, pocket, etc. Required antichlor treatment. Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.
2.
3. 4.
Biobleaching with laccase and mediator :laccase is the newest enzyme class to be introduced into denim finishing.laccases are multi-copper oxidases that catalyze the oxidation of a wide range of phenols, including indigo, under simultaneous reduction of oxygen to water. Laccases alone are not effective in decolorizing indigo on denim and require a mediator, which mediates electron transfer from indigo to moleculer oxygen. Since the laccase and mediator only degrade indigo
Cont..
without affecting the weft yarns, the resulting finish exhibits unique washdown of denim, with grey cast
Pigment dyeing :o
It is refers to the application of pigments just like dyes by an exhaust method or pad application.
o
Generally pigments are either anionic or non-ionic in nature when disperse in water when applied on cellulose will not have affinity towards anionic cellulose in the dyebath.
So Ionic nature of the fibres are changed prior to the dyeing by different types of cationic pretreatments.
Types of pigments
o Cationic polymers :are used that form a layer of cationic
charges when applied to the fibre surfaces, eg: Polyacrylates, Polyimidazoles, Poluamino condensates.
Efficiency of exhaustion is affected by process parameters such as:o Dosage-Optimum quantity is to be used,higher dosages
reduces pigment build up ability and level dyeing ability.
o pH-
Bath is to be maintained at slightly acidic side to achieve better exhaustion which gives uniform build up, desired shade depth. polymer structure of cationizer.
o Temp- It is between RM temp to 80c which depends on o MLR- Too short MLR gives uneven build up of cationizer,
generally 1:15 or 1:20 MLR is recommended.
2. Good light fastness except fluorescent colours. 3. Novelty effects can be achieved by altering the chemicals
The pre-treatment of the garment prior to dyeing. The quality and the type of the material used in the making of garment, viz, fabric construction, sewing thread, buttons, zippers, pocket linings, etc The dyeing process. The machinery used for dyeing.
3. 4.
or from garment to garment, dyed in the same lot :This problem mainly occus due to the mixing of the panels cut from piecees of unmercerised, mercerised and causticised fabrics. The defect cannot be totally rectified even though by using selected dyes or using a single dye with minimum shading properties. In either cases, the unmercerised cotton will be to some extent lighter in shade and must be accepted. So it is necessary to identify and code the mercerised and unmercerised fabrics pieces prior to cutting and care should be taken during stitching to prevent mixing of panels.
Flexibility towards fast changing marketing trends Quick response and rapid turn around
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4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Labour intensive process which requires a thorough piece by piece supervision at every stage of processing Defects related to yarn, fabric, sewing thread, interlining, etc.. Become visible after dyeing. Poor appearance in which dyed garment become hairy, fuzzy, beatenup, wrinkled if desired. Poor reproductibility of shades Special care of the dyeing properties as well as the effect of their presence on dyeing process is needed. More material handling, as compared to the pieces dyed goods, the extent of handling is more.
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6. 7.
Sewing thread
Interlinings Care labelling depending on the fastness requirement.
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