Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface
area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly
useful mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the
term includes assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven
processes and tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and
machines which are related to knitted fabric production.
The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other
related machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce
knitted fabrics of required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric
thickness is generally maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this
reason there are problem if any order comes which didnt produced in previous.
Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection,
loop length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.
We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop
length, machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib and
interlock fabric.
LITERATURE REVIEW
What is yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers,
suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing,
crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope
making.
What is Fabric
Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is made
by a network of natural or artificial fibers. The example is
thread or yarn which is formed by weaving or knitting as
in textiles. Cloth is mostly used in the manufacturing of
clothing and household furnishings etc.
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Weaving
Weaving is a method of
fabric production in which
two distinct sets of yarns or
threads are interlaced at right
angles to form a fabric or
cloth.
The
longitudinal
threads are called the warp
and the lateral threads are
the weft or filling. The
method in which these
threads are inter woven
affects the characteristics of
the cloth.
Fig. Interlacement of
warp & weft
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Knitting
Knitting is a method by
which thread or yarn may
be turned into cloth or
other fine crafts. Knitted
fabric
consists
of
consecutive rows of loops,
called stitches. As each
row progresses, a new
loop is pulled through an
existing loop. The active
stitches are held on a
needle until another loop
can be passed through
them.
This
process
eventually results in a
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final product.
GSM =
Course per inch x Stitch
length x 39.37 x 39.37 x Tex
1000 x 1000
GSM =
WPI x CPI x SL (mm) x 0.9155
=
Count (Ne)
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Indirect system:
In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit
weight. In this system higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally
used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc and the yarn count calculation
formula is the following:
Lxw
Count=
Wxl
Here, W = weight of sample.
L = length of sample.
w = unit weight in system.
l = unit length in system.
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GSM DEPENDS ON
The main material for knitting process is yarn. The quality of knitted yarn should be like as
follows:
Parameter
Best
Best
Best
Acceptable
limit
Acceptable
limit
Acceptable
limit
Uniformity %
9 9.5
9.7 10.2
11.5-12.1
12.8-13.5
9.5-9.8
10.4-10.7
Thin (-50%)
3-5
16-22
50-60
2-3
7-10
Thick (+50%)
7 - 12
32-43
75-90
250-300
15-20
34-42
Neps (+200%)
38 - 47
73 - 88
140-175
300-380
30-45
48-58
Hairiness
4.0 4.4
4.6 - 4.9
4.75-5.1
5.5-5.8
4-4.44
4.45-4.8
Tenacity
(CN/tex)
21.8 22.6
18.4 - 18.9
16.7-17.6
16.2-15.4
25.5-24
23.4-22.1
Elongation
6.7 6.9
6.2 - 6.4
7.3-7.08
6.6-6.4
14.7-13.7
11.8-11.2
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YARN COUNT
The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting
process are given:
a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne.
c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne.
d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne.
e) Spandex: 40D, 70D.
f) Polyester: 75D, 150D.
g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc.
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RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN
KNITTING PARAMETERS
1. Stitch length increase with the decrease of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase
and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width
decrease.
4. If yarn count increase then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease
but GSM and WPI increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.
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Single jersey
Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22
Pique
Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16
Double lacoste
Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36
1 x 1 Rib
Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57
Lycra 1 x 1 Rib
Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12
Lycra 2 x 2 Rib
Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62
Interlock
Yarn count = - 0.206 GSM + 80.56
Single jersey
GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4
Lycra Single jersey
GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56
Pique
GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44
1 x 1 Rib
GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66
Lycra 1 x 1 Rib
GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08
Lycra 2 x 2 Rib
GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08
Interlock
GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388
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Fabric Type
Strip S/J
S/J
Double Pique
1/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
S/J
S/J
S/J
Full Feeder Lycra S/J
Full Feeder Lycra S/J
Full Feeder Lycra S/J
Full Feeder Lycra S/J
1/1 Rib
1/1 Rib
2/2 Rib
1/1 Lycra Rib
Yarn Count
26/1
30/1
32/1
30/1
20/1
24/1
28/1
32/1
28/1
40/1
28/1
34/1
30/1
28/1
26/1
24/1
40/1 cvc
30/1
30/1 + 40D
SL (mm)
2.86
2.80
2.58
2.60
3.20
2.90
2.67
2.45
2.78
2.45
2.75
2.90
2.95
2.80
2.90
3.00
2.80
2.78
2.90
GSM
160
150
165
220
270
220
200
200
155
110
160
180
200
160
160
270
250
220
230
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CONCLUSION
About this project learning thing is that fabric GSM change
during production. Different type of yarn and Yarn count has
vary the fabric GSM. It is also vary with stitch length, dyeing
and VDQ pulley. These parameters are responsible for GSM
change. From this project try to input some information for
how GSM depends on any other parameters.
So these things are should learn well to avoiding upcoming
problem and increase productivity.
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