With Performance Testing

Before addressing performance features,

make sure your fabrics and products meet
mandatory standards and customer
expectations for quality.

Flammability
Restricted substances
Special childrens issues

16 CFR 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles

CPAI-75: A Rate of Burn Standard for Sleeping Bags

ASTM F1955-99 (2005): Standard Test Method for Flammability of Sleeping

Bags

CPAI-84: A Specification for Flame-resistant Materials Used in

Camping Tentage
16 CFR 1615/1616: Standard for the Flammability of Children's
Sleepwear

ASTM D1230-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles

ASTM D6545-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Textiles Used in

Children's Sleepwear

Other national, state, and local regulations

Industry standards

Test method lists in this presentation are

NOT comprehensive.
For every AATCC method listed, there are
similar, identicalor totally differentISO,
JIS, BS, etc. methods for measuring the
same property.

CPSIA

Lead (childrens product 300 ppm; paint 90 ppm)

Phthalates (toys and child-care items)

Cal Prop 65: Safe Drinking Water and Toxic

Enforcement Act of 1986
American Apparel & Footwear Association RSL
ko-Tex Standard 100

Other government and industry RSLs

Tougher flammability and toxicity

requirements
ASTM F963-071: Standard Consumer Safety
Specification on Toy Safety

Use and abuse

Small parts (16 CFR 1500.50-53 and 1501)
Sharp points (16 CFR 1500.48)
Sharp edges (16 CFR 1500.49)

Non-textile standards and regulations

Care instructions
Fiber content
Safety
Identification

50% Cotton
50%
Cotton
50%
Polyester
50%
Polyester
Hand or machine
Hand
machine
Wash
in or
cold
water
Wash
in
cold
No bleach water
No bleach
Tumble
dry low
Tumble
dry low
Made in U.S.A.
Made in U.S.A.

MM

SHELL: 100% POLYESTER

SHELL:
INSERT:100%
100%POLYESTER
NYLON
INSERT:
100%NYLON
NYLON
LINING: 100%
LINING:
100%
NYLON
DOWN: 85% DOWN
15%
DOWN:FEATHER
85% DOWN 15%
EXCLUSIVE OFFEATHER
ORNAMENTATION
EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
RN92740
RN92740

Dimensional Stability
Colorfastness
Strength
Durability

Know which features are important

in your product category

at your price point
to your customers

Know how to measure performance

Know how you compare with competitors

Water resistance
Absorbency
Drying time
Moisture transport

AATCC TM22: Water Repellency-Spray Test

Water is sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled conditions.The
specimen is evaluated by comparing the wetted pattern with pictures on a standard chart.
This method is especially suitable for measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes
applied to fabrics

AATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain Test

A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is sprayed with water for five minutes under
controlled conditions. The blotter is reweighed to determine the amount of water passing
through the specimen. Tests at different intensities give a complete picture of the
penetration resistance of a single fabric or combination of fabrics.
AATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration Test
Measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used
to predict the probable resistance of fabrics to rain penetration resistance of garment fabric.

AATCC TM70: Water Repellency-Tumble Jar Dynamic

Absorption Test

Subjects specimens to dynamic conditions similar to those encountered during actual use. Not
intended for determining probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics, since it measures
absorption of water into, but not through, the fabric. Results depend primarily on the
resistance to wetting or water repellency of the fibers and yarns in the fabric, and not upon
the construction of the fabric.

AATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test

Measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure.

Dynamic
Absorption

Rain Test
Impact Penetration

Spray Test

Hydrostatic
Pressure

AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical

Supplement
(MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods.
They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved
by the processes stated in the Rules of Procedure for
AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or
ASTM International. Some of the techniques may be
considered for development as new standards or
incorporated into existing standards in the future.

AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles

The completeness and uniformity of textile processing as well as the suitability of a fabric for a
particular use is dependent upon its ability and propensity to take up water. The test is based
on the amount of time it takes for a drop of water to disappear from the surface of a specimen
(by being absorbed into the material).

MM TS-01: Quick Water Absorbency

Designed to measure the water absorbency of textiles by measuring the time it takes for a drop
of water placed on the fabric surface to be completely absorbed into the fabric. May be used
to indicate comfort during wear, but most useful in measuring the affects of moisture control
treatments used on textiles.

MM TS-04: Absorbent Capacity Absorbency Testing System

(ATS)

Measures water absorbency, rate, and direction with an infrared sensor to determine the
maximum absorbent capacity of a fabric.

MM TS-05: Gravimetric Drying Test

Determines the time for a fabric to dry when wet with a specified amount of water. Indicates
drying time during wear or hang drying, but results may not be applicable in different
temperatures and humidities.

MM TS-07: Drying Time

Determines drying time by wetting fabric and recording weight at set intervals until dry.

MM TS-08: Drying Time of Wet

Textile Fabrics

A test specimen saturated in distilled water is placed

inside a controlled atmosphere. Periodic weighings
determine the rate of water loss. Garment construction
is not considered.

AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of

Textile Fabrics

The test method produces objective measurements of liquid moisture management properties
of knitted, woven and nonwoven textile fabrics. Results are based on water resistance, water
repellency, and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure, including the fabrics
geometric and internal structure and the wicking characteristics of its fibers and yarns.

MM TS-03: Horizontal Wicking

Determines the horizontal spread or area of wicking of 0.5 mL of

deionized water.

MM TS-06: Vertical Wicking

Measures the time for water to wick up six inches from a cut edge or the
distance wicked vertically in one hour.

Air permeability
Vapor transport

UPF
Colorfastness to light
Weather resistance

ASTM D6544 (preparation)

AATCC TM183 (testing)
ASTM D6603 (labeling)

AATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to Light

Accelerated exposure for color change evaluation only.

AATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance

of Textiles: Exposure

to Daylight and Weather

Test specimens and standard are exposed simultaneously to natural weathering. End point is a
specified degree of degradation (color change, strength loss, etc.) or a specific amount of
radiant energy. Exposures by calendar days, months, or years can result in more variation.
AATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp

Exposure

Sample and standard are exposed to a xenon lamp source. Strength and/or color is compared.
AATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture

Exposure

Specimens are exposed to a fluorescent UV light source and periodic wetting. Resistance to
degradation is rated in percent loss in strength, or percent residual strength (breaking or
bursting) and/or color change.
AATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc

Lamp Exposure with and without Wetting

Test specimens and standard are exposed under specified conditions of relative humidity or
wetting. Weather resistance is evaluated by comparison to unexposed original material.

Soil prevention
Soil removal

Oily
Protein
Mineral

AATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon

Resistance Test

Evaluates resistance to wetting by a selected series of liquid hydrocarbons of

different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and
observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle. The oil repellency grade is
the highest numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface.

AATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method

Measures ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering.

Primarily to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual
use.

AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency:

Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test

Determines the efficacy of a protective finish for imparting a low energy

surface on all types of fabrics by evaluating resistance to wetting by a series
of water/alcohol solutions of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on
the fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle.

Appearance retention
Strength retention

Abradant
Abrasion direction

ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion

Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary
Platform, Double-Head Method)

Abradant wheels trace a circular pattern on the fabric

specimen.

ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion

Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated
Diaphragm Apparatus)

Determines the resistance to abrasion of woven and knitted

textile fabrics, both conditioned and wet, using the inflated
diaphragm tester. Result is the number of cycles until the
abrasive panel breaks through the fabric.

ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion

Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory
Cylinder Method)

Abrasion resistance of woven textile fabrics using the oscillatory

cylinder tester. Common method for evaluating for upholstery.

ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance

of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion)

Every point in the surface of the specimen is equally and uniformly

abraded in all horizontal directions. Evaluation options are fabric
rupture, mass loss, thickness loss, and breaking strength loss.

ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion

Resistance of Textile Fabrics
(Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)

The Martindale abrasion tester moves specimens in a Lissajous

pattern against an abradant wool fabric. May not be suitable
for fabrics with a pile depth greater than 2 mm.

AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of

Fabrics: Accelerotor Method

Specimen is driven along a zigzag course in a generally circular

orbit within a cylindrical chamber, impinging on walls and
abradant liner while being subjected to rapid, high velocity
impacts. Evaluation is made on the basis of weight loss or grab
strength loss of the specimen when broken at an abraded fold
line.

ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and

Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Materials Using a
Sweating Hot Plate

Thermal resistance and the evaporative resistance, under steady-state conditions, of fabrics,
films, coatings, foams, and leathers, including multi-layer assemblies, for use in clothing
systems.

ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of

Textile Materials

Measures the time rate of heat transfer from a warm, dry, constant-temperature, horizontal flatplate up through a layer of the test material to a relatively calm, cool atmosphere.

ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal

Insulation of Clothing Using a Heated Manikin

Insulation value of clothing ensembles. The method describes the measurement of the
resistance to dry heat transfer from a heated manikin to a relatively calm, cool environment.
This is a static test that provides a baseline clothing measurement on a standing manikin.
The effects of body position and movement are not addressed.

ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative

Resistance of Clothing Using a Sweating Manikin

Determination of the evaporative resistance of clothing ensembles. This static test measures
the resistance to evaporative heat transfer from a heated sweating thermal manikin to a
relatively calm environment.

ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal

Insulation of Sleeping Bags Using a Heated Manikin

This test method covers determination of the insulation value of a sleeping bag or
sleeping bag system. It measures the resistance to dry heat transfer from a constant
skin temperature manikin to a relatively cold environment. This is a static test that
generates reproducible results, but the manikin cannot simulate real life sleeping
conditions relating to some human and environmental factors

Odor control
Rot resistance

Qualitative
Quantitative

AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile

Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textiles

The dual-purpose test method determines the susceptibility of textile materials to

mildew and rot AND evaluates the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.

AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile

Materials: Assessment of

One of the most commonly used and well-recognized tests for antimicrobialtreated textiles, this method provides quantitative evaluation of the degree of
antibacterial activity. Bacteria on treated and untreated specimens are counted
after innoculation and incubation. Percent reduction by the treated specimen is
calculated.

AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics,

Assessment of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method

This test detects bacteriostatic activity on textile materials. The Parallel Streak
Method provides quick and easy qualitative determination of antibacterial
activity of diffusable antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials. This
method provides evidence of antibacterial activity against both Gram positive
and Gram negative bacteria.

Testing Antimicrobial
Performance
(AATCC Review,
Sept/Oct 2010)

Diana Wyman
AATCC
wymand@aatcc.org
+1 919 549 3539